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post #31 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 10:05 AM
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By all means, get the denim insulation if it's available. It will accomplish its goal. Me, I tend not to complicate things when it comes to insulation. I'll just grab a couple of the trusted ole foam mattress toppers from walmart

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post #32 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by a77cj7 View Post
Ouch. Yeah, I just looked and didn’t find any. I got a roll prime a few months ago.

Call home depot, their ship to store is super quick sometimes.

Chris
I will likely just go ahead and order it from home depot and wait it out. I am not in a huge rush. You think the 6 pack would be enough to cover a 1099 and 2 1299 towers? Im thinking of ordering two and just return one just in case. My plan is to line then all even the center chamber of the 1099s and then add extra poly fill for the center. Easy on the 1099s since the center chamber is sealed. Not sure if I should go thicker for the 1299s since its not sealed.

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post #33 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
By all means, get the denim insulation if it's available. It will accomplish its goal. Me, I tend not to complicate things when it comes to insulation. I'll just grab a couple of the trusted ole foam mattress toppers from walmart
For pretty much every subwoofer build i have done that was my answer. Always served me well. For these speakers I have plans to keep them for a very long time. I want to go all out on the build making sure I do everything right. At least that the patient side of me speaking haha. Time will tell if I cant stop the itch

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post #34 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
For pretty much every subwoofer build i have done that was my answer. Always served me well. For these speakers I have plans to keep them for a very long time. I want to go all out on the build making sure I do everything right. At least that the patient side of me speaking haha. Time will tell if I cant stop the itch
Sure. If the denim is available, then by all mean go all out. I was just providing an option being you asked for something local and in stock.
Can't wait for your build to begin

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post #35 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Sure. If the denim is available, then by all mean go all out. I was just providing an option being you asked for something local and in stock.

Can't wait for your build to begin


Oh for sure. I appreciate the helpful for sure. I can 100% for sure say that I’m overthinking it but I really want to make these as perfect as I can. With these completed and then adding two full range mini devs I think I can finally rest easy and say my journey has been completed lol

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post #36 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
Oh for sure. I appreciate the helpful for sure. I can 100% for sure say that I’m overthinking it but I really want to make these as perfect as I can. With these completed and then adding two full range mini devs I think I can finally rest easy and say my journey has been completed lol
I built my 1299's sealed. Here is what I did for insulation. Hope that helps you.
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post #37 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 10:44 AM
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I can finally rest easy and say my journey has been completed lol
Sir, that is wishful thinking

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post #38 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 11:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BCRSS View Post
I built my 1299's sealed. Here is what I did for insulation. Hope that helps you.

It does thank you. I worry about that much polyfill in the ported box though. Dont want to have an action scene spoiled by the speakers spitting out poly...Wifes cat would have a field day with that lol

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post #39 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 11:56 AM
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Wifes cat
Love how it's the "Wife's cat" and not 'our cat'. I understand 100%... the monsters are terrifying when laying prone in front of a 135" spandex screen.
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post #40 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Sir, that is wishful thinking
I know haha this is not the first time I said that. Started with a pair of polk rtia speakers and a sony strdnXXX receiver. Then moved to a full set of klipsch rf7iiis and rc64iii. The added atmos and a marantz sr7012. Needed more bass so I bough a rythmik fv25hp....then I found DIY. First was a marty table sub then a fully marty. Still wasnt enough to fill my satisfaction so I built the beast mode devestators with the lavoce drivers. Soon the Eminence drivers released and I swapped the lavoces for the eminence. Now here I am building the 1099 center and 1299 towers. Sold the marantz and bought the emotiva XMC-2 with a DR3 and XPA7 amp. The rabbit hold is deep my friend but I think I have reached the end of the wifes patience haha. I may not be "done" but I hope to be done for a good while. we will see lol

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post #41 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 12:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Love how it's the "Wife's cat" and not 'our cat'. I understand 100%... the monsters are terrifying when laying prone in front of a 135" spandex screen.
Its actually a funny story. I told the wife I was going to build my new subs. She said no. I didnt listen and built them anyways. A week later our vet friend asked if we wanted to adopt a kitten bc if she cant find a home it would end up getting put down. I jokingly said no knowing I wouldnt win. When I came home from work we had a kitten. Wife looked at the speakers and said remember when I said no...Yeah I didnt listen either...I guess thats fair lol
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post #42 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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another question. For thos that used the pre built crossover from @mtg90 what size speaker wire did you use. I see a lot of people running 16awg it seems. Everthing I have is ran using 12awg currently. Ill be sending 450W plus to the speakers. Is 16awg sufficient or can you even fit 14awg on the pre built crossover?

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post #43 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
another question. For thos that used the pre built crossover from @mtg90 what size speaker wire did you use. I see a lot of people running 16awg it seems. Everthing I have is ran using 12awg currently. Ill be sending 450W plus to the speakers. Is 16awg sufficient or can you even fit 14awg on the pre built crossover?
I used 14 and it worked perfect. I needed to make sure the wire ends were rolled together tightly, so to squeeze through the holes, but worked ok.


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post #44 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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1299 Design, Build, and Integration

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I used 14 and it worked perfect. I needed to make sure the wire ends were rolled together tightly, so to squeeze through the holes, but worked ok.


Yeah I was playing around with some of the 12awg wire I have and I bet even with the 14awg it was a tight fit. Looking at the crossover components and the leads could one assume that using 16awg vs any small awg wire would yield the same result? Since no matter what size I go with I need to order it I would rather not fight to get it in the screw terminal unless it yields a benefit.

Better yet I’ll go with 14awg and just buy some connectors for it. That should work just fine

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post #45 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 02:09 PM
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I really can't see why 16 wouldn't work. I just had 14 laying, so used that.


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post #46 of 68 Old 01-31-2020, 03:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I really can't see why 16 wouldn't work. I just had 14 laying, so used that.


I went with the 14 and bought a variety pack of fork connectors to go with it. After looking at it it should work fine. Guess we will see lol thanks for the information

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post #47 of 68 Old 02-08-2020, 06:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Today we will be cutting some MDF! Ive settled on a final dimension of 52" tall 18" deep and 14.75" wide. I have created an excel spreadsheet that will auto calculate the expected volume and output a cutlist. I plan to email it to @Erich H as once I have vetted it and verified its accuracy I think it will really help others looking to build a ported 1299 with minimal inputs. Anyone interested in seeing it send me a PM and I can email it to you...Nothing extremely fancy but effective.

A word on crossovers...I had my first oops moment yesterday building the crossovers. I did not realize that there is a diagram/layout of the crossovers and went rogue. I tried to summon the kindergarten version of my self and put the square shape on the square outline etc...Turns out do not do not do this. I opened the second box and found the diagram. Turns out I had 4 components in the wrong spot. Luckily my soldering kit came with a spring assisted solder remover. That along with a heat gun on low I was able to easily correct the mistake and build the second one without any mistakes. I planned to send the crossover to Matt to build but I wanted to give it a go myself. Anyone with even the slightest bit of soldering skills can easily build these. It was sooooo easy. (minus putting the components in the correct spot which was my fault).



Looking at some of the builds on here I noticed many are only using 2 window braces. I know with subs you typically want one brace per 10 inches or so which means I would need 3 total. How many do you guys recommend using? Can you get away with only 2 since the bass resonance is much less than that of a sub or should I go with 3 to be certain?

Final volume on my build should come out to right around 5.75 cu ft. @eng-399 worked with my a ton and answered a lot of my stupid questions in order for me to gain confidence in modeling the build myself. He deserves the AVS Medal of Honor!

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post #48 of 68 Old 02-08-2020, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post







Looking at some of the builds on here I noticed many are only using 2 window braces. I know with subs you typically want one brace per 10 inches or so which means I would need 3 total. How many do you guys recommend using? Can you get away with only 2 since the bass resonance is much less than that of a sub or should I go with 3 to be certain?



@eng-399 worked with my a ton and answered a lot of my stupid questions in order for me to gain confidence in modeling the build myself. He deserves the AVS Medal of Honor!


I used 3. I’d recommend at least that in cabs this size. See my pic.
And agree on Mike’s AVS Medal of Honor.
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post #49 of 68 Old 02-08-2020, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I used 3. I’d recommend at least that in cabs this size. See my pic.
And agree on Mike’s AVS Medal of Honor.


Thank you for the picture. It was actually perfect timing. Went ahead and cut out an extra brace for each tower. I’ve got all of the cuts completed. Just need to cut out the window braces. I’ve never done roundovers on the window braces but I’m considering doing it for these. I’m sure it doesn’t make any difference or if it does it’s only slight but I wanted to give it a go. How were you guys rounding over these braces? 1/4” round over on both sides? Or 1/2 on both sides or what?

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post #50 of 68 Old 02-08-2020, 01:53 PM
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Thank you for the picture. It was actually perfect timing. Went ahead and cut out an extra brace for each tower. I’ve got all of the cuts completed. Just need to cut out the window braces. I’ve never done roundovers on the window braces but I’m considering doing it for these. I’m sure it doesn’t make any difference or if it does it’s only slight but I wanted to give it a go. How were you guys rounding over these braces? 1/4” round over on both sides? Or 1/2 on both sides or what?


Don’t go over 1/2 of material thickness. I usually use a 3/8 roundover for 3/4 material.



Chris
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post #51 of 68 Old 02-08-2020, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Don’t go over 1/2 of material thickness. I usually use a 3/8 roundover for 3/4 material.



Chris


Thanks Chris. I’ll pick up the bit tomorrow. I’m guessing use the 3/8 and hit both sides?

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Thanks Chris. I’ll pick up the bit tomorrow. I’m guessing use the 3/8 and hit both sides?


Yup, thats what I do.

Here’s some quick and super ugly horn rails I did during the quad dev build.


I’m not sure if the roundover does anything with turbulence. But it only took a few minutes to do.

I don’t usually roundover my window bracing.

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post #53 of 68 Old 02-09-2020, 05:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Yup, thats what I do.

Here’s some quick and super ugly horn rails I did during the quad dev build.


I’m not sure if the roundover does anything with turbulence. But it only took a few minutes to do.

I don’t usually roundover my window bracing.

Chris


Yeah I’ve never done them in the past but I plan to round over the port and most likely the sides so I figured I would practice on the braces since they can’t be seen lol

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post #54 of 68 Old 02-10-2020, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
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https://wisewoodveneer.com/product/r...r-quarter-cut/


All,
I wanted to do a black ash veneer on the speakers to match the rest of my klipsch speakers. I do not plan to veneer the face. That will likely just be praised a flat black as I am going to build a set of grills for the speaker. I’m a total noob on the veneer process. Anyone have any opinions or suggestions on the veneer above? How thick of a backing should I go with? I plan to use heatlock glue and use the iron on method with a flush cut router bit for trimming.

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post #55 of 68 Old 02-12-2020, 07:31 PM
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Are the 1299s no longer being sold?
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post #56 of 68 Old 02-13-2020, 05:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Are the 1299s no longer being sold?

I believe there is supply issues with the compression driver or something that Erich wants to change over to something more readily available so they are temporarily pulled from the site. Same happened with the 1099s a while back.
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post #57 of 68 Old 02-18-2020, 08:51 AM - Thread Starter
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I am nearing the end finally! I’ve taken many pictures but haven’t updated the post yet. I have the 1299s case assembled and the rear port cut! I also have all crossovers built. Just need to do the wiring and the lining of the walls. Once that’s done I can close her up and begin on the finishing work.

I plan to veneer the sides and back. The back is where the slot port is located. I plan to round over the port for a nice look but I’m not sure how to veneer a round over properly/easily since the method I plan to use is adhere and trim with a flush cutting router bit.

Any advice?

Where do most people place the crossover for the 1299s? I’m thinking on the bottom and zip tie the wire to the window bracing but my only worry is the wire rattling inside. Maybe I can wrap the wire with poly fill like rythmik does with their subs. Very nice tough for sure.

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post #58 of 68 Old 02-18-2020, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
I am nearing the end finally! I’ve taken many pictures but haven’t updated the post yet. I have the 1299s case assembled and the rear port cut! I also have all crossovers built. Just need to do the wiring and the lining of the walls. Once that’s done I can close her up and begin on the finishing work.

I plan to veneer the sides and back. The back is where the slot port is located. I plan to round over the port for a nice look but I’m not sure how to veneer a round over properly/easily since the method I plan to use is adhere and trim with a flush cutting router bit.

Any advice?

Where do most people place the crossover for the 1299s? I’m thinking on the bottom and zip tie the wire to the window bracing but my only worry is the wire rattling inside. Maybe I can wrap the wire with poly fill like rythmik does with their subs. Very nice tough for sure.


I don’t believe you can veneer a roundover.

I have recently started using pipe insulation to keep wires from rattling.

You should be able to find some that is smaller, I just had that laying around.

Chris
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post #59 of 68 Old 02-18-2020, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I don’t believe you can veneer a roundover.

I have recently started using pipe insulation to keep wires from rattling.

You should be able to find some that is smaller, I just had that laying around.

Chris


Really good idea! I like it! 1/4 ID insulation should work perfectly.

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post #60 of 68 Old 02-19-2020, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey guys looking for some finishing advice. I’ve ordered several samples of veneer to do the sides top and back. I plan to paint the face of the speakers a black color (I’m thinking flat black or close) I originally planned to use duratex while it is strong for sure I really want the perfectly smooth surface.

Anyone have any advice on gear, paint or primer to use to make sure I do this right.

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