DIYSG In-Wall - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-10-2020, 04:34 PM - Thread Starter
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DIYSG In-Wall

Long time lurker and appreciative of all of the information here.

Looking to do 7.2.4 Going back and forth, and back and forth on speakers, and really like what I see with the DIYSG. Thinking about the HT or Volt for my LCR, and Volt for surrounds and possibly the Atmos, though I may just do Micca there.

My question mainly revolves around the fronts, as I am limited on space based on how I've currently got the room configured.

Room size is 21 deep by 13 wide. I had initially planned on having the screen at the back of the room, but when I started thinking about the riser, it made more sense to have that at the back of the room, and the screen in the front. The screen space is 108" wide. I am planning on a 110" diagonal AT screen (96" x 54"), which would take up most of the wall.

Currently the first row will be just under 10' from screen, so I really want to go AT with in-wall fronts. It appears I can do that with the DIYSG, but I'm not sure about dimensions, and if I need enclosures, etc. I don't think the current depth will work, as one side of the wall (left) has the bathroom shower behind it, so I can't go past the stud. I was thinking about adding another set of wall studs in front, giving me a depth of about 7". Does that make sense?
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Last edited by uwgb96; 02-11-2020 at 08:41 AM.
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post #2 of 10 Old 02-10-2020, 05:44 PM
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I've been thinking about my own situation, where I want to mount an AT screen as close as possible to the screen wall, and I'm tempted by the HT-12s at 9.5" deep. Those and a 1x3 framed Spandex screen puts things a foot off the wall. The two-door, angled entry might make that a little awkward (and shift your screen and front soundstage to the left more than you want), but it's hard to see if you've got any other options without a floor-plan.

I'll let others comment on fully or partially in-wall options since I don't have much to offer there.
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post #3 of 10 Old 02-11-2020, 05:17 AM
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DIYSG In-Wall

@uwgb96 look at my build thread here

We are in very much the same boat.

I also added a falls wall giving me 24" behind my screen. I made a AT screen from Spandex.

I'm currently leaning to HT8s for surrounds and HTM-12 for LCR. Would love to do Titans for LCR but they are twice the price and given what we still need to spend....it might be tough. I'm leavingy LCRs for last though, so who knows.



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Last edited by OrangePhile; 02-11-2020 at 05:21 AM.
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post #4 of 10 Old 02-11-2020, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwgb96 View Post
Long time lurker and appreciative of all of the information here.


Looking to do 7.2.4 Going back and forth, and back and forth on speakers, and really like what I see with the DIYSG. Thinking about the HT or Volt for my LCR, and Volt for surrounds and possibly the Atmos, though I may just do Micca there.


My question mainly revolves around the fronts, as I am limited on space based on how I've currently got the room configured.

Room size is 21 deep by 13 wide. I had initially planned on having the screen at the back of the room, but when I started thinking about the riser, it made more sense to have that at the back of the room, and the screen in the front. The screen space is 108" wide. I am planning on a 110" diagonal AT screen (96" x 54"), which would take up most of the wall.

Currently the first row will be just under 10' from screen, so I really want to go AT with in-wall fronts. It appears I can do that with the DIYSG, but I'm not sure about dimensions, and if I need enclosures, etc. I don't think the current depth will work, as one side of the wall (left) has the bathroom shower behind it, so I can't go past the stud. I was thinking about adding another set of wall studs in front, giving me a depth of about 7". Does that make sense?
Looking at your 3rd picture where you have the screen taped in blue I would make a change to the door opening you have framed to the right of the screen. I would reframe it to be a standard size door and then plan to have the screen on a mini-wall a foot out from your current stud wall. The “wall” that an AT screen hangs on doesn’t need to be much, just 2 posts and maybe a cross support depending on how you hang the screen. Then i would go with a bigger screen! Cant really tell dimensions but if you squared that door instead of angled it you might get another foot of width. I think you are going to be surprised at how small 110” will feel. For comparison my room is 17’ from front of my spandex screen to the back wall and I have a 132” 16x9 screen.

Also with the door where it is you will probably need to hang some custom black velvet curtains to cover the door otherwise the reflections from the door will be incredibly annoying!
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-11-2020, 08:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangePhile View Post
@uwgb96 look at my build thread here

We are in very much the same boat.

I also added a falls wall giving me 24" behind my screen. I made a AT screen from Spandex.

I'm currently leaning to HT8s for surrounds and HTM-12 for LCR. Would love to do Titans for LCR but they are twice the price and given what we still need to spend....it might be tough. I'm leavingy LCRs for last though, so who knows.

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I figure I would need a false wall in front, but the doorway and riser make that pretty tough. I know I'm squeezing in too much seating, but really wanted two rows with a console table behind the back row. I just need another 4 feet



I should probably move the riser back, and only have two rows of seating. I'm not sure how difficult it would be to change the door now. Wife wanted the double door.
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post #6 of 10 Old 02-11-2020, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwgb96 View Post
I should probably move the riser back, and only have two rows of seating. I'm not sure how difficult it would be to change the door now. Wife wanted the double door.

The double doors will make soundproofing difficult as well.



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post #7 of 10 Old 02-11-2020, 11:00 AM
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I know you said you had the rise at the back by the door initially, but why not put it back there but then make steps to step onto it immediately as you inter the room(assuming your double doors swing the other way).

The screen on the other side of your room really seems like the best option.


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post #8 of 10 Old 02-11-2020, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangePhile View Post
I know you said you had the rise at the back by the door initially, but why not put it back there but then make steps to step onto it immediately as you inter the room(assuming your double doors swing the other way).

The screen on the other side of your room really seems like the best option.

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The problem is the closet on the side as well.


I think I could've made the screen at the back work, but I'm pushing it as is with the wife. I think I'm stuck with the current configuration, and just need to find the best way to utilize what I've got. I know things could be better, but I also know I'm going to be quite happy with whatever I end up with. I've seen guys in much worse situations constraint-wise.


Thank you very much for the responses. Much appreciated.
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post #9 of 10 Old 02-11-2020, 05:58 PM
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Keep us posted. As you say, it usually comes together as you move along. Good luck.


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post #10 of 10 Old 02-11-2020, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwgb96 View Post
I figure I would need a false wall in front, but the doorway and riser make that pretty tough. I know I'm squeezing in too much seating, but really wanted two rows with a console table behind the back row. I just need another 4 feet

I should probably move the riser back, and only have two rows of seating. I'm not sure how difficult it would be to change the door now. Wife wanted the double door.
The screen really doesn't need much of a wall, go ahead and completely drywall and frame in what you have if the door is a WAF (Wife acceptance factor) issue. Once you get the projector buy a cheap sheet and hang it about a foot out from your back wall. Project your planned screen size onto it and then also try projecting a larger screen size that would partially block the double door. Then put two columns from the ceiling to the floor and mount the screen to it. Choose whichever screen size you like the most. To keep someone from hitting the edge of the screen as they come in just put a small end table or hanging velvet. With the two columns instead of a full fake wall you can move big furniture in and out through the double doors by simply picking the screen up off of the supports and setting it in front of the closet. Your spacing will be pretty tight with 2 rows and a thin back bar seating area, but it should be doable.

Here are some pictures to give you some concrete ideas. This is a white over black spandex screen with a 1x3 frame. The other way to build the frame is to make them "on edge" and then you don't need the quarter round that I had to use because I made the frame with my 1x3s laid flat. To hang it to the railing I just have 3 of the metal French Cleats (you could use wood also, but I used the metal because it is thinner) across the top. I can lift the screen and move it around by myself since the frame isn't very heavy.



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