JTR Captivator 2400 DIY clone - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 41 Old 02-19-2020, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trimlock View Post
I think the JTR's port maxed out at 110db, it is very undersized.


As for dual HST's in 8cu/f, that is a waste of time IMO. That would be a decent size for one but you are essentially wasting performance for using 2.
I never said this.

For clarification, this is an attempt at a JTR Cap 2400 clone using a single 18" SI HST driver and a single xls 2502 amp. Then multiply this by 2. For 2 separate subs and 2 separate amps.
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post #32 of 41 Old 02-19-2020, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acribb View Post
I never said this.

For clarification, this is an attempt at a JTR Cap 2400 clone using a single 18" SI HST driver and a single xls 2502 amp. Then multiply this by 2. For 2 separate subs and 2 separate amps.
Sorry, I mistook this:


Quote:
Originally Posted by acribb View Post
Not sure if I mentioned it earlier but this DIY would be an 8cf ported box with a Stereo Integrity HST-18 MKIII x 2.

as you trying to fit 2 per box.


Is the 8 cu/f internal space? or is that over all external dimensions?
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post #33 of 41 Old 02-19-2020, 11:13 AM
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If I were you, I'd do dual Kuda 18" boxes from DIY Sound Group, they are only $244 per box, then I'd put the HST-18 in both, and power them with either the XLS 2502, or the NX3000D in bridged 4ohms. This will, easily, beat the PB-16U and the JTR 2400, and cost you a LOT less. Plus, it will have a nice finished look, as they make great enclosures.

Another great option would be GSG Audio Mini Marty's, with the same drivers and amps.

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Last edited by blake18; 02-19-2020 at 11:26 PM.
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post #34 of 41 Old 02-19-2020, 12:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by blake18 View Post
If I were you, I'd do dual Kuda 18" boxes from DIY Sound Group, they are only $244 per box, then I'd put the HST-18 in both, and power them with either the XLS 2502, or the NX3000D in bridged 4ohms. This will, easily, beat the PB-16U and the JTR 2400, and cost you a LOT less. Plus, it will have a nice finished look, as they make great enclosures.

Another great option would GSG Audio Mini Marty's with the same drivers and amps.
The 8cf would be internal volume as recommended by Stereo Integrity.

Do you really think a Kuda SI HST 18 is > SVS PB16U?

Will it dig deeper? It would have 2400 watts running it vs. the 1500 for the 16U.

So Kuda builds with this SI driver + amps will cost $3420 + paint + labor.

SVS PB16U x 2 = $4560.

Last edited by acribb; 02-19-2020 at 12:36 PM.
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post #35 of 41 Old 02-19-2020, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acribb View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by blake18 View Post
If I were you, I'd do dual Kuda 18" boxes from DIY Sound Group, they are only $244 per box, then I'd put the HST-18 in both, and power them with either the XLS 2502, or the NX3000D in bridged 4ohms. This will, easily, beat the PB-16U and the JTR 2400, and cost you a LOT less. Plus, it will have a nice finished look, as they make great enclosures.

Another great option would GSG Audio Mini Marty's with the same drivers and amps.
The 8cf would be internal volume as recommended by Stereo Integrity.

Do you really think a Kuda SI HST 18 is > SVS PB16U?

Will it dig deeper? It would have 2400 watts running it vs. the 1500 for the 16U.

So Kuda builds with this SI driver + amps will cost $3420 + paint + labor.

SVS PB16U x 2 = $4560.
They would destroy the PB-16 Ultras, without question. Also, I'm not sure how you came to $3420, it should come out to a bit less expensive than that, especially if you go with NX amps.

The drivers are $1600, you can get the NX3000D for as cheap as $300 each on eBay, the enclosures are $244 x2 + shipping, depending on location, should come to around $600, then connectors and cables are only gonna run about $50. It should come to around $3k. If you want to spend a lot less, the Ultimax 18" drivers are a fantastic deal, and would also work great in those Kuda or Mini Marty enclosures.

Oh and heads up, someone is selling two HST-18 drivers for $800 in the classified section of this forum, unbeatable deal!
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Last edited by blake18; 02-19-2020 at 01:23 PM.
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post #36 of 41 Old 02-19-2020, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acribb View Post
The 8cf would be internal volume as recommended by Stereo Integrity.

Do you really think a Kuda SI HST 18 is > SVS PB16U?

Will it dig deeper? It would have 2400 watts running it vs. the 1500 for the 16U.

So Kuda builds with this SI driver + amps will cost $3420 + paint + labor.

SVS PB16U x 2 = $4560.
If you want prebuilt, a single $2,550 PSA V3612 will beat both PB16s. Dual B&C 18" Pro drivers vs dual Peerless 15" drivers.

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post #37 of 41 Old 03-21-2020, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm back to looking into DIY again now that I will spending a lot more time at home due to COVID-19. Time to put the woodshop to use.

Questions-

1. Each 18" subwoofer box will have about a 50ft run of 12 gauge speaker wire between it and it's own dedicated Crown XLS 2502. Is there any power loss to consider? I guess there will be some but with a 2500 watt amp, not much to worry about?

2. The Stereo Integrity HST-18MKIII is modeled here at the recommended 8cf box and 18hz tuning. The 12hz tune is also pictured. Which should I go with? How does JTR get such a low 12hz tune? At the expense of lower output in the 20-40hz range?









3. When 8cf of volume is calculated, I think that driver displacement and bracing displacement is taking away from that internal volume so wouldn't you need to expand the model of the size of the box to accommodate? So if i'm looking for an 8cf internal volume, should build a box sized to 8.75cf to accommodate the driver and bracing displacement? (i'm estimating here that the bracing and driver will displace .75 feet). Also, with an extremely heavy driver like the HST-18, I think I need to build a window brace with a circle in it that will support the weight of the motor, right?

4. Front baffle - I'm assuming should be 1.5" thick of MDF? And glue blocks of plywood to the inside to give the screws something to bite into other than MDF? I've never had much luck with wood screws in MDF.
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post #38 of 41 Old 03-23-2020, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acribb View Post
I'm back to looking into DIY again now that I will spending a lot more time at home due to COVID-19. Time to put the woodshop to use.

Questions-

1. Each 18" subwoofer box will have about a 50ft run of 12 gauge speaker wire between it and it's own dedicated Crown XLS 2502. Is there any power loss to consider? I guess there will be some but with a 2500 watt amp, not much to worry about?

2. The Stereo Integrity HST-18MKIII is modeled here at the recommended 8cf box and 18hz tuning. The 12hz tune is also pictured. Which should I go with? How does JTR get such a low 12hz tune? At the expense of lower output in the 20-40hz range?









3. When 8cf of volume is calculated, I think that driver displacement and bracing displacement is taking away from that internal volume so wouldn't you need to expand the model of the size of the box to accommodate? So if i'm looking for an 8cf internal volume, should build a box sized to 8.75cf to accommodate the driver and bracing displacement? (i'm estimating here that the bracing and driver will displace .75 feet). Also, with an extremely heavy driver like the HST-18, I think I need to build a window brace with a circle in it that will support the weight of the motor, right?

4. Front baffle - I'm assuming should be 1.5" thick of MDF? And glue blocks of plywood to the inside to give the screws something to bite into other than MDF? I've never had much luck with wood screws in MDF.
Those port calculations are way off.

JVC RS-540, Sony UBP-X800, Onkyo TX-RZ730 (7.2.4), Onkyo M-5010, Elite Screens 100" 16:9 (Spandex AT DIY)
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post #39 of 41 Old 03-23-2020, 12:42 PM
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Here’s my similar-size HST build.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...-hst18a-s.html

I do have significant chuffing at 11hz, and some on 16hz. I haven’t gone full-power at 20hz tune.

The bracing doesn’t touch or support the motor, that isn’t necessary for a stationary sub.

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post #40 of 41 Old 03-23-2020, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by a77cj7 View Post
Here’s my similar-size HST build.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...-hst18a-s.html

I do have significant chuffing at 11hz, and some on 16hz. I haven’t gone full-power at 20hz tune.

The bracing doesn’t touch or support the motor, that isn’t necessary for a stationary sub.

Chris


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Sorry for the noobish question Chris, but what is chuffing and what does it sound like?
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post #41 of 41 Old 03-23-2020, 01:13 PM
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Sorry for the noobish question Chris, but what is chuffing and what does it sound like?

Funky fluttering wind noise, lol. I don’t know how to describe it better. If you’ve ever heard a cheap ported sub run to its limits, you’ve probably heard really bad chuffing. Cheap commercial subs are bad about it, undersized ports.

Caused by excessive port velocity.

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