BMD Alpha 21" Devastator Build - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 63 Old 03-23-2020, 06:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by shellshox345 View Post
Build two whole subs to save a sheet of MDF? That's some "racer's accounting" if I've ever heard it. Sweet build man!
Haha, yeah that does sound like some horrible justification . Honestly the long term plan is to build two, so figured I would just cut and build them both at the same time. I don't have a driver or amp for the second one yet, but I figure "If you build it they will come".
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post #32 of 63 Old 03-23-2020, 06:01 AM
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16th off the front rails will not make it crash and burn. It will just push the compression ratio closer to 2:1. There is a little wiggle room there.
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post #33 of 63 Old 03-23-2020, 06:03 AM - Thread Starter
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So I'm trying to scrounge up what I need for when I get to the point of finish the wiring on the box. I've seen where people will run their speakerwire through a foam tubing (like used in HVAC, but much smaller diameter). Does anyone know what this is called, where to get it, and if this is a good idea/bad idea, or if I shouldn't worry about the speaker wire rattling around in the box?
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post #34 of 63 Old 03-23-2020, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
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So I'm trying to scrounge up what I need for when I get to the point of finish the wiring on the box. I've seen where people will run their speakerwire through a foam tubing (like used in HVAC, but much smaller diameter). Does anyone know what this is called, where to get it, and if this is a good idea/bad idea, or if I shouldn't worry about the speaker wire rattling around in the box?
Pipe Foam insulation is definitely a great idea. I purchased mine from HD. I got the idea from one of a77cj7's builds...been using the idea ever since

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post #35 of 63 Old 03-23-2020, 06:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Pipe Foam insulation is definitely a great idea. I purchased mine from HD. I got the idea from one of a77cj7's builds...been using the idea ever since

Yep, thats exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
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post #36 of 63 Old 03-23-2020, 06:56 AM
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Yep, thats exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

Theres a stiffer and a more flexible type, obviously the more flexible is better for subwoofers.

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post #37 of 63 Old 03-24-2020, 12:31 PM
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Your build thread is on the Index
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post #38 of 63 Old 03-25-2020, 12:21 PM - Thread Starter
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So I got a bit more work done yesterday. I was able to cut out the driver holes using a router with a down bit, made it pretty easy, I just don't have a beefy router at home, so I just took out a bit of material at a time, about 3 passes.


After that I finished the last few braces, and dry-fit the remaining pieces. I need to cut out the notch for the speaker travel on the two vertical braces, and am waiting for my order of PT to use for sealing up everything real nice before I can't get to some of it as easy later on.
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post #39 of 63 Old 03-25-2020, 12:24 PM
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It is looking close between you and Chris as to who will finish an Alpha first. I am really looking forward to hearing impressions from both of you
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post #40 of 63 Old 03-25-2020, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyrobuilder View Post
So I got a bit more work done yesterday. I was able to cut out the driver holes using a router with a down bit, made it pretty easy, I just don't have a beefy router at home, so I just took out a bit of material at a time, about 3 passes.


After that I finished the last few braces, and dry-fit the remaining pieces. I need to cut out the notch for the speaker travel on the two vertical braces, and am waiting for my order of PT to use for sealing up everything real nice before I can't get to some of it as easy later on.
That's a tall devastator Where did you get that router jig? Looks cool. What the largest diameter cutout it will allow?

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post #41 of 63 Old 03-25-2020, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter
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That's a tall devastator Where did you get that router jig? Looks cool. What the largest diameter cutout it will allow?
I was going to make, or buy one, and went to the shop I have access to and there were 3 large router jigs, I was super excited! They got them from a local woodworking store here in Utah.

It goes up to about 45", here it is on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-2610...5166999&sr=8-1

and this is the router bit I got, worked great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #42 of 63 Old 03-25-2020, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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It is looking close between you and Chris as to who will finish an Alpha first. I am really looking forward to hearing impressions from both of you
Who will finish first we may be close. Able to listen ugh... sadly I've got an amp that is delayed right now from Amazon, so far showing April 21 for delivery... we will see. I've got another monoblock NHT amp that I may look at trying, but we will see once we get closer to done.
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post #43 of 63 Old 03-25-2020, 01:49 PM
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I was going to make, or buy one, and went to the shop I have access to and there were 3 large router jigs, I was super excited! They got them from a local woodworking store here in Utah.

It goes up to about 45", here it is on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-2610...5166999&sr=8-1

and this is the router bit I got, worked great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Man that's awesome! Thanks!

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post #45 of 63 Old 03-25-2020, 03:44 PM
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Who will finish first we may be close. Able to listen ugh... sadly I've got an amp that is delayed right now from Amazon, so far showing April 21 for delivery... we will see. I've got another monoblock NHT amp that I may look at trying, but we will see once we get closer to done.

The Great Bass Race!

Lol, I just finished glue-up on mine, stuck a pic over on the index. I still have quite a bit of finishing to do, maybe be ready to paint in a couple days. Then I like to give the duratex a couple days to dry before moving, it stays soft.

Sorry to hear about the amp, thats frustrating.

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post #46 of 63 Old 03-27-2020, 06:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Where in Utah? I’m up in Roy.


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Hi Trimlock, I'm down in northern Utah County. It's always good to see other forum members from thee same state, area
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post #47 of 63 Old 03-27-2020, 06:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Over the last few nights and lunch breaks, I got some progress.

I ended up ordering some PL glue to run over the critical inside corners to re-enforce the construction. I also used it to glue in the baffle. This pic shows the glue-up of the baffle and the two front rails. This allowed me to screw from the bottom before dropping it into the enclosure:


After that I dropped it in with the help of my oldest boy:
BEFORE (I so wanted to clean out all the shavings, but didn't want to push them into the wet glue... will vacuum/blow out the cabinet once the glue is dry)


AFTER


Notice the two screws at the bottom, this is some of the issues I ran into with building back-to-front. I can also see that I am going to have to cram into the port holes, and from the back access hole to seal up the inner baffle and the front, but this thing is huge, so there should be room to do so.

I also decided to glue in some wooden backer blocks for the driver install. I've stripped out MDF before, and it is not fun to deal with (as a tip for a stripped out hole, wooden toothpicks and some glue builds up a good hole that you can screw into again). Anyways, I debated in using some oak, but didn't want to snap off screws, so went with some pine blocks I cut out of some old door-jamb material I had:
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post #48 of 63 Old 03-27-2020, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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As I get closer to finish... I'm planning on bondo'ing the holes, sanding, and then painting it black. I am putting these, or at least the first one, upstairs in the family room where I'm staging things until the theater room is complete. Once in the theater it is going behind the AT screen, so I don't really want to spend a bunch on Duratex where it won't really be seen. Also I think I want it to be matte-black so it doesn't reflect behind the screen. Any thoughts, if I did go with Duratex does it have a sheen/reflective properties?
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post #49 of 63 Old 03-27-2020, 06:37 AM
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BMD Alpha 21" Devastator Build

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As I get closer to finish... I'm planning on bondo'ing the holes, sanding, and then painting it black. I am putting these, or at least the first one, upstairs in the family room where I'm staging things until the theater room is complete. Once in the theater it is going behind the AT screen, so I don't really want to spend a bunch on Duratex where it won't really be seen. Also I think I want it to be matte-black so it doesn't reflect behind the screen. Any thoughts, if I did go with Duratex does it have a sheen/reflective properties?

Matte black will work fine.

I would suggest priming first in either case.
Roll on:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-...0924/203317264

Spray on:
https://www.menards.com/main/paint/i...4452936804.htm

Duratex is better at hiding imperfections as it goes on thick. It has a bit of a sheen, but not what I consider distracting.
Here’s a pic off the top of my ported sub:


My dev’s right below my screen are duratex with lexan fronts. I’ve never noticed reflection issues from either the duratex or lexan.



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post #50 of 63 Old 03-27-2020, 06:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Matte black will work fine.

I would suggest priming first in either case.

Duratex is better at hiding imperfections as it goes on thick. It has a bit of a sheen, but not what I consider distracting.
Here’s a pic off the top of my ported sub:


My dev’s right below my screen are duratex with lexan fronts. I’ve never noticed reflection issues from either the duratex or lexan.



Chris


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Thanks Chris, that answers my question. Don't think the sheen will cause an issue, but where these won't be seen, I'll save the $ on Duratex and buy a pillow for the speaker; my wife wasn't too happy when I jokingly told her I would have to take her pillow from the bed to put in the speaker box.

P.S. I LOVE how those look with the Duratex and LEXAN so you can see your sub. Can't wait to see your Alpha BMD completed this way.

I'm tempted to adjust and put some Lexan for the top portion on mine, like your doing. I'm thinking of lighting up the speakers behind the AT screen, plus having a massive Devastator box is cool, but being able to see the driver is even cooler. What thickness of Lexan did you use? Any other tips, thoughts if I were to go that route?
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post #51 of 63 Old 03-27-2020, 07:03 AM
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Thanks Chris, that answers my question. Don't think the sheen will cause an issue, but where these won't be seen, I'll save the $ on Duratex and buy a pillow for the speaker; my wife wasn't too happy when I jokingly told her I would have to take her pillow from the bed to put in the speaker box.

P.S. I LOVE how those look with the Duratex and LEXAN so you can see your sub. Can't wait to see your Alpha BMD completed this way.

I'm tempted to adjust and put some Lexan for the top portion on mine, like your doing. I'm thinking of lighting up the speakers behind the AT screen, plus having a massive Devastator box is cool, but being able to see the driver is even cooler. What thickness of Lexan did you use? Any other tips, thoughts if I were to go that route?

Thanks!

The only issue I see to switching over is beautifying the cutout and backer blocks.

The lexan is 1/2”, the 24 x 28.5 panel will cost around $100.

Most of it is covered in my mini dev build, found here:
Mini Devastator Build, with Clear Front Panels

So, I’ll address the differences on the alpha.

First, I switched to a half window to save money on lexan.



To seal the bottom edge of the window, I used a piece of 1/8 x 1 aluminum bar stock.

I rabbeted the top edge of the front panel to recess it.


Installed with screws and PL.


The bottom of the lexan will be rabbeted as well. Lexan (polycarbonate) drills and machines very nicely, in contrast to plexiglass (acrylic).

I switched to 2” window rails on this build, due to the 2.5in screws I use.

Chris


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post #52 of 63 Old 03-31-2020, 06:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks @a77cj7 , I think I'm going to go big, and put in Lexan windows in mine as well. I think I would kick myself if I didn't do it, knowing it is an option out there now. Thanks for the info above on how to connect the Lexan to the lower portion of the front.

Sadly my biggest issue is that I am out of some key items to continue the build. I have to tell myself every few hours, "self, you don't need to go to the hardware store, this isn't a critical project". I've made a few small online orders for some misc parts, but until the COVID-19 settles, I may not be able to completely finish the first Devastator. I am thinking I may screw on a temporary front, in place of the Lexan, if that is all that I am left missing.

Well, I decided to start on the second Devastator since I had all the materials cut, and it is going great, so at least I have something to do. I was going to build this one front to back, but honestly I didn't want to re-learn a different way. Also I know the few issues I will run into with back-to-front building, so figured I would stick with the devil I knew.

If we get some good weather, it has been snowing off and on, I plan to roll the first outside so I can bondo all the holes, and sand them.

Stay tuned, and stay safe out there...
-Matt
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post #53 of 63 Old 03-31-2020, 06:17 AM
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BMD Alpha 21" Devastator Build

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Thanks @a77cj7 , I think I'm going to go big, and put in Lexan windows in mine as well. I think I would kick myself if I didn't do it, knowing it is an option out there now. Thanks for the info above on how to connect the Lexan to the lower portion of the front.

Sadly my biggest issue is that I am out of some key items to continue the build. I have to tell myself every few hours, "self, you don't need to go to the hardware store, this isn't a critical project". I've made a few small online orders for some misc parts, but until the COVID-19 settles, I may not be able to completely finish the first Devastator. I am thinking I may screw on a temporary front, in place of the Lexan, if that is all that I am left missing.

Well, I decided to start on the second Devastator since I had all the materials cut, and it is going great, so at least I have something to do. I was going to build this one front to back, but honestly I didn't want to re-learn a different way. Also I know the few issues I will run into with back-to-front building, so figured I would stick with the devil I knew.

If we get some good weather, it has been snowing off and on, I plan to roll the first outside so I can bondo all the holes, and sand them.

Stay tuned, and stay safe out there...
-Matt

Excellent, I can’t wait to see your final product.

Let me know if you have any additional questions, I’m happy to help out.

Mine is finished and curing currently, it should be running by the end of the day.

Chris
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post #54 of 63 Old 03-31-2020, 06:19 AM
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Excellent, I can’t wait to see your final product.

Mine is finished and curing currently, it should be running by the end of the day.

Chris

Mine will be running by the end of today too
I went out early and got the last sheet of ply I needed.
It’s been fun building the same cab as you fellas.
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post #55 of 63 Old 03-31-2020, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Mine will be running by the end of today too
I went out early and got the last sheet of ply I needed.
It’s been fun building the same cab as you fellas.
Very nice, I'm glad to hear yours is almost there. If you have a minute, I have a few questions:

x) What is the size of the pillow, and can you give a bit of detail of how/where you placed it?

x) What amp are you driving yours with? I got me a Crown XLS 1502 on its way, but this is really intended to be used for some other speakers in the theater room long term. So I'm debating on the XLS 2502's, or the iNuke 3000 or 6000's.

x) Do these or the Marty's "walk" much? Should I worry about trying to put something under them to prevent them from moving around on carpet?
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post #56 of 63 Old 03-31-2020, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by pyrobuilder View Post
Very nice, I'm glad to hear yours is almost there. If you have a minute, I have a few questions:

x) What is the size of the pillow, and can you give a bit of detail of how/where you placed it?

x) What amp are you driving yours with? I got me a Crown XLS 1502 on its way, but this is really intended to be used for some other speakers in the theater room long term. So I'm debating on the XLS 2502's, or the iNuke 3000 or 6000's.

x) Do these or the Marty's "walk" much? Should I worry about trying to put something under them to prevent them from moving around on carpet?

I just grabbed cheap standard pillows from walmart. Softest ones they had. I’ll snap a pic for ya later today when I install em.

I’m using a crown 4/1250 bridged. So 2500w. Thats why they were designed around 2500w input power. A xls2502 bridged should come close, since the nsw is a low 6ohm nominal.

I’ve never had a cab walk, but put rubber feet on all of mine.

Chris
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post #57 of 63 Old 03-31-2020, 06:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
Mine will be running by the end of today too
I went out early and got the last sheet of ply I needed.
It’s been fun building the same cab as you fellas.
Very NICE! Glad to hear there are a few others building. If you don't do a full build thread feel free to post a pic or two here, we all love seeing what others have done.
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post #58 of 63 Old 03-31-2020, 06:38 AM
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BMD Alpha 21" Devastator Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by pyrobuilder View Post
Very NICE! Glad to hear there are a few others building. If you don't do a full build thread feel free to post a pic or two here, we all love seeing what others have done.

Jared added onto his micro build thread.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...l#post59409114

I will post a build thread for mine soon.

Chris

Last edited by a77cj7; 03-31-2020 at 06:44 AM.
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post #59 of 63 Old 03-31-2020, 11:33 AM
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Since you said we could post pics here, here’s some encouragement for adding a window:



Excuse the mess, lol.

Chris
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post #60 of 63 Old 03-31-2020, 11:35 AM
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It embarrasses me how good yours looks. And I didn’t even blacked out the ports inside.
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