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post #1 of 16 Old 03-22-2020, 10:18 PM - Thread Starter
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First DIY sub help

Hi,

I've recently been put onto this forum regarding help to build a DIY sub. I'm in the process of designing/building a home theater (bad timing i know).
I've tried looking at the DIY FAQ and using the search bar but i haven't been able to find any clear answers to my questions as most are their outdate (links no longer exist). It could also be the my searching skills suck.

My room dimension are 5.1m x 3.4m x 2.7m (16.7' x 11.15' x 8.85'). My (humble) dream setup is 2 SVS SB 2000 but as they're about $1600 AUD each they're out of my budget. My other options are 2 SVS SB 1000 which go for about $1070 AUD each, still pricey but easier to digest.

I've got a few questions.
1. Would 2 SVS SB 1000s be enough for that room? if so is the DIY route cheaper/better/needed?
I've done some research with the info i could find. Would the Dayton Audio 12" Ultimax Subwoofer and Cabinet Bundle or A Dayton Audio 15" Ultimax Subwoofer and Cabinet Bundle be on par with the SB-1000?
Sorry about not being able to post links, i'm under the 5 post limit (this is my first)

2. Other than the bundle what else do i need to consider? I'll be running an Denon x3600h AVR with a MiniDSP for calibration. i'd rather not run an external amp if i can avoid it, would the AVR be able to run those 2 DIY Subs?

3. What about the sub amp plate? do i need one considering the SB-1000 has one? If i don't need one where are all the changes made? on the DSP?

I've read a lot about box size, to be honest i'm not sure why this makes a difference but i wouldn't want the box to be bigger than 22" x 22" x 22" if i can avoid it.

Again, sorry if these questions are basic/pointless. I've just got a bit of time on my hands to do some research due to this lockdown and i want to make the most informed decision i can, either DIY if i'm confident or off the shelf if it comes to it.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 05:54 AM
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#1 it’s hard to say what is enough, but it will be perfectly adequate.
The UM 15" will be way better than SB-1000, it will probably be better than everything sealed svs sub until SB-4000 and maybe even better than that( i can’t 100% confirm that because sadly I haven’t seen measurements on the UM 15")

#2 the AVR will not power the subs you need power amp

#3 I don’t like plate amps in DIY subs because an external amp is more convenient, you only need to cut a small hole and you don’t need to run long RCA cables
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post #3 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 07:16 AM
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A single PB2000 would roughly have the same loudness as two SB2000

DIY might a little bit be complicated during this time unless, you can get all the stuff in Australia.

There is no need for minidsp if buying a powered sub such as the SVS.

A DIY Subwoofer does not require minidsp unless it needs a lot of EQ like some designs, but most will only need a Plate amp or an external power amplifier.

My room is a bit smaller than yours and my PB12-NSD which is simlar to the PB2000 can fill it unless you are a bass head which would benefit from a second PB2000.

My advise for now is to get one PB2000 and add another IF NEEDED
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Last edited by qguy; 03-23-2020 at 07:28 AM.
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post #4 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
A DIY Subwoofer does not require minidsp unless it needs a lot of EQ like some designs
Well, a ported subwoofer does require a HPF at tuning to keep the driver from unloading below tuning. A minidsp is the popular choice for this task.

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post #5 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 07:28 AM
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The Dayton Ultimax is a great driver. However there is more to building a sub then sticking a driver in a random box. The driver/box bundles you mention are for sealed subs, so normally need an amp with low end boost to get decent low end response. A properly tuned vented box can get away with a standard amp without boost, but a vented box will be larger than the sealed box.
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post #6 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 07:34 AM
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Do commercial subs have this HPF feature ? I know some plate amps have DSP, but how about the older ones before DSP ?

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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Well, a ported subwoofer does require a HPF at tuning to keep the driver from unloading below tuning. A minidsp is the popular choice for this task.
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post #7 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 07:50 AM
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Do commercial subs have this HPF feature ?
I'm sure Commercial ported subs implement a hpf to protect the driver. It would be built into the amp.
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post #8 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 08:01 AM
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Is it safe to assume that plate amp such as Dayton would have this feature ?

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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
I'm sure Commercial ported subs implement a hpf to protect the driver. It would be built into the amp.
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post #9 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
I'm sure Commercial ported subs implement a hpf to protect the driver. It would be built into the amp.

Yup, its built into the circuitry, along with the EQ. Nothing visible or user-adjustable, but its there.

I would still run a minidsp with commercial subs. Allows for custom individual eq and delay settings for proper integration and room correction. Not needed, but beneficial.

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post #10 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post
Is it safe to assume that plate amp such as Dayton would have this feature ?

Many have a built in, but its not adjustable and may not work with your port tuning.

The dayton dsp series has full control of it, along with eq.

Chris


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post #11 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bogaboga View Post
#1 it’s hard to say what is enough, but it will be perfectly adequate.
The UM 15" will be way better than SB-1000, it will probably be better than everything sealed svs sub until SB-4000 and maybe even better than that( i can’t 100% confirm that because sadly I haven’t seen measurements on the UM 15")

#2 the AVR will not power the subs you need power amp

#3 I don’t like plate amps in DIY subs because an external amp is more convenient, you only need to cut a small hole and you don’t need to run long RCA cables
Perfect, this was pretty much what i was looking for.

Follow up for your last 2 points.
If i get an external amp is it just about running speaker cables to the subs then? What amp power should i be looking at to power the 2 15" subs?
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post #12 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 03:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post
A single PB2000 would roughly have the same loudness as two SB2000

DIY might a little bit be complicated during this time unless, you can get all the stuff in Australia.

There is no need for minidsp if buying a powered sub such as the SVS.

A DIY Subwoofer does not require minidsp unless it needs a lot of EQ like some designs, but most will only need a Plate amp or an external power amplifier.

My room is a bit smaller than yours and my PB12-NSD which is simlar to the PB2000 can fill it unless you are a bass head which would benefit from a second PB2000.

My advise for now is to get one PB2000 and add another IF NEEDED

Thanks, the reason i'm looking at getting 2 subs is because based on my room dimensions (attached), i'll have a 34Hz,68Hz and 101Hz null going the length of the room and a 51hz,101Hz nulls going the width of the room that i should be able to resolve using dual subs (based on my research, please correct me if i'm wrong)
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post #13 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 08:39 PM
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Are you able to put the subs near field? Near field helps with removing cancellations. If you have a smaller MLP, like 2 seats, You may only need 1 sub

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Originally Posted by ninooe View Post
Thanks, the reason i'm looking at getting 2 subs is because based on my room dimensions (attached), i'll have a 34Hz,68Hz and 101Hz null going the length of the room and a 51hz,101Hz nulls going the width of the room that i should be able to resolve using dual subs (based on my research, please correct me if i'm wrong)
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post #14 of 16 Old 03-23-2020, 09:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Are you able to put the subs near field? Near field helps with removing cancellations. If you have a smaller MLP, like 2 seats, You may only need 1 sub
Yea thought of that but i'm going with 2 rows of seats so wont be possible without being an obstacle and ugly, the 2 subs should allow me to create a virtual sub in the middle of the 2 seating positions to fix it. To be honest after doing some research and taking into account your advice on getting it shipped to AUS (also our Dollar is very weak against yours at the moment). i might just settle for 2 cheaper subs ~$700 AUD then slowly learn how to build a DIY sub and go from there. Probably end up being more costly in the long run but it will be fun learning without the pressure of getting it right for the HT.
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post #15 of 16 Old 03-24-2020, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ninooe View Post

Follow up for your last 2 points.
If i get an external amp is it just about running speaker cables to the subs then? What amp power should i be looking at to power the 2 15" subs?
Yeah you run speaker cables from the power amp to the sub, you can use binding post or my preferred choice speakon connector.

Look into something like crown XLS 1002 or XLS 1502 or Behringer NX3000.
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post #16 of 16 Old 03-24-2020, 09:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bogaboga View Post
Yeah you run speaker cables from the power amp to the sub, you can use binding post or my preferred choice speakon connector.

Look into something like crown XLS 1002 or XLS 1502 or Behringer NX3000.
Legend, thanks so much.
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