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post #121 of 168 Old 04-22-2020, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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ORDERED!


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post #122 of 168 Old 04-22-2020, 07:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Another quick question for you guys. Thinking of going binding posts or speakon. I have never used speakon, and I do understand after reading and speaking to other members, they are a more "secure" method. My XPA5 has binding posts also. To be honest, Im leaning towards the binding because Ive had experience with them over the years.

thanks in advance.
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post #123 of 168 Old 04-22-2020, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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also: line the boxes with Open cell foam. Does it matter 1 or 2 inch? 2 inch better?
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post #124 of 168 Old 04-22-2020, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post
Another quick question for you guys. Thinking of going binding posts or speakon. I have never used speakon, and I do understand after reading and speaking to other members, they are a more "secure" method. My XPA5 has binding posts also. To be honest, Im leaning towards the binding because Ive had experience with them over the years.
I don't see a question here?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff
also: line the boxes with Open cell foam. Does it matter 1 or 2 inch? 2 inch better?
I used https://www.target.com/p/comfy-foam-...04#lnk=sametab in my DIYSG speakers, they sound great. Don't know if there's a "better" in 1" vs. 2"

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post #125 of 168 Old 04-22-2020, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post
I asked about speakon vs binding posts
You stated "Thinking of going binding posts or speakon". That's not a question. If you're asking which is better, it is a matter of personal preference. Either will do the job equally well.

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Originally Posted by nezff
Thats the reason I asked about 1 inch vs 2 inch. So, you dont know. thanks for that.
Meaning in a box such as you are building, there likely wouldn't be any noticeable or measurable difference. Thus the reason for the answer.

BTW, under the "Helpful Notes" tab on the 1299 page:
Quote:
It is recommended that you loosely fill the speaker enclosure with polyfill for the sealed enclosure or line the walls with 1.5" acoustic foam or denim insulation if you build the ported version.

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post #126 of 168 Old 04-22-2020, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Try this again.

Does anyone have any suggestions on using speakons vs binding posts and possibly why? Also I have read the tips on the DIYSG website, but I was planning on just using 1-2 inch open cell foam OR the denim insulation I see online at Home Depot to line the speaker boxes. Im assuming the difference is minimal in the thickness. Anyone that has used either? Care to comment on the pros and cons of either?

thanks in advance.
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post #127 of 168 Old 04-22-2020, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post
Try this again.

Does anyone have any suggestions on using speakons vs binding posts and possibly why?
OK, I'll take another shot at it.

Pros and Cons only (and I'm sure I'll miss some points), as they both perform the same function and there would be no difference sonically.

Binding posts such as


Pros: Screw down or push, insert bare wire, release. Inexpensive.
Cons: Stick out from box. Depending on orientation can allow +/- to touch inadvertently. Requires 2 holes.

Cups:

Pros: Screw down or banana plug (as well as push/insert/release) capable. Single (larger) hole. Recessed so doesn't stick out much from box. Inexpensive.
Cons: While not very likely, can allow +/- to touch inadvertently.


Pros: Insert and twist-lock. Will not allow +/- to inadvertently touch (assuming properly wired within NL4 male connector). Good for those that disconnect/reconnect speakers often (as are binding posts/banana plugs and push/release mechanisms).
Cons: The male connection will stick out from the box (there are 90* male connectors to reduce this). More expensive than the above.

Again, most of the points to use one vs. the other is personal preference. I use SpeakOns on my subs, the cups for speakers (with banana plugs).

Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff
Also I have read the tips on the DIYSG website, but I was planning on just using 1-2 inch open cell foam OR the denim insulation I see online at Home Depot to line the speaker boxes. Im assuming the difference is minimal in the thickness. Anyone that has used either? Care to comment on the pros and cons of either?

thanks in advance.
The only time I had a problem with open cell foam like the mattress topper I linked above was when I accidentally purchased 1/2" thick foam. When I finished the speaker (the center in the Fusion-8 builds thread in my sig) it seemed a bit thin. I added some polyfill from a cheap pillow from Target and resolved that. Cannot speak to the denim as I haven't used it, but using the 1.5" mattress topper in the L/R Fusion-8 did not exhibit the same "thinness" that I experienced with the center.

I'm sure @mtg90 could expand on the reasons for using the open cell foam vs. the denim insulation and vice-versa, if there are any.

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post #128 of 168 Old 04-22-2020, 09:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you. I have the cup version on my speakers now. Speakons are nice as far as functional, but pretty big.

I wasnt sure where or who said to get open cell foam, but that's all I was looking for today. Matt did recommend the denim. I'll take a look at it too.

Polyfill really wouldn't help in a ported enclosure? I'm understanding that polyfill makes the speaker think the box is bigger.
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post #129 of 168 Old 04-22-2020, 11:23 PM
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Too much damping material in a ported enclosure will kill off the bass output normally provided by the port. Goal is to use enough to eliminate internal reflections which will clean up the midrange without causing too much loss in the effectiveness of the port.

You can certainly use polyfill in ported enclosures and I have done so in plenty you just have to make sure you don't overdo it. Unllike a sealed cabinet which gets filled with the polyfill you generally want plenty of free airspace in a ported cabinet and a clear path from the woofer to the port. You have to use a little bit more loose polyfill then acoustic foam or fiberglass/recycled denim insulation for the same effectiveness. So in larger enclosures it can become difficult to hold the polyfil in place which is why it's easier to use something in sheet form to line the walls.

Last edited by mtg90; 04-22-2020 at 11:27 PM.
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post #130 of 168 Old 04-23-2020, 05:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post
Too much damping material in a ported enclosure will kill off the bass output normally provided by the port. Goal is to use enough to eliminate internal reflections which will clean up the midrange without causing too much loss in the effectiveness of the port.

You can certainly use polyfill in ported enclosures and I have done so in plenty you just have to make sure you don't overdo it. Unllike a sealed cabinet which gets filled with the polyfill you generally want plenty of free airspace in a ported cabinet and a clear path from the woofer to the port. You have to use a little bit more loose polyfill then acoustic foam or fiberglass/recycled denim insulation for the same effectiveness. So in larger enclosures it can become difficult to hold the polyfil in place which is why it's easier to use something in sheet form to line the walls.
Gotcha. Thank you very much for this. I will start looking for the lining I'm using today.
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post #131 of 168 Old 04-24-2020, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Going over the cutlist. I hope I did this correctly. Feel free to check my measurements. One question, Should I put the bottom and top "inside the other pieces? Wasnt sure it mattered. I think not having a seam all the way around the top would be easier to finish later. The measurements in red are the different cutlist with the top and bottoms inside the box. Let me know what you guys think.

Boxes are 45 tall x 16 deep x 14.75 wide .75 thickness material. I think my measurements are correct:

Baffle is 14.75 x 45(will be extended 5 inches) This box will be 4.83648cuft total. Possibly 4.3-4.4cuft after drivers etc..

sides 44.25 tall x 15.25 OR 45 tall x 15.25 deep
tops 16 x 14.75 OR top 13.25x 14.5
bottoms 13.25 x 14.5
backs 44.25 tall x 13.25 OR 45 tall x 13.25 deep

@eng-399 @blister64
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post #132 of 168 Old 04-24-2020, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post
Going over the cutlist. I hope I did this correctly. Feel free to check my measurements. One question, Should I put the bottom and top "inside the other pieces? Wasnt sure it mattered. I think not having a seam all the way around the top would be easier to finish later.
How do you plan to finish them? If veneer, the seams won't matter.

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post #133 of 168 Old 04-24-2020, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
How do you plan to finish them? If veneer, the seams won't matter.
No, sorry. I plan on painting them. Not sure if rolling or spraying. I will roundover the edges and sand everything down from 180-400.
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post #134 of 168 Old 04-24-2020, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post
Going over the cutlist. I hope I did this correctly. Feel free to check my measurements. One question, Should I put the bottom and top "inside the other pieces? Wasnt sure it mattered. I think not having a seam all the way around the top would be easier to finish later. The measurements in red are the different cutlist with the top and bottoms inside the box. Let me know what you guys think.

Boxes are 45 tall x 16 deep x 14.75 wide .75 thickness material. I think my measurements are correct:

Baffle is 14.75 x 45(will be extended 5 inches) This box will be 4.83648cuft total. Possibly 4.3-4.4cuft after drivers etc..

sides 44.25 tall x 15.25 OR 45 tall x 15.25 deep
tops 16 x 14.75 OR top 13.25x 14.5
bottoms 13.25 x 14.5
backs 44.25 tall x 13.25 OR 45 tall x 13.25 deep

@eng-399 @blister64
The cultist looks right to me. looks like your good to go
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post #135 of 168 Old 04-24-2020, 01:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by eng-399 View Post
The cultist looks right to me. looks like your good to go
Do you see anything wrong with changing up the top piece? I think I might just do the top piece, bottom piece and braces all the same size.

thanks in advance.
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post #136 of 168 Old 05-04-2020, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post
Too much damping material in a ported enclosure will kill off the bass output normally provided by the port. Goal is to use enough to eliminate internal reflections which will clean up the midrange without causing too much loss in the effectiveness of the port.

You can certainly use polyfill in ported enclosures and I have done so in plenty you just have to make sure you don't overdo it. Unllike a sealed cabinet which gets filled with the polyfill you generally want plenty of free airspace in a ported cabinet and a clear path from the woofer to the port. You have to use a little bit more loose polyfill then acoustic foam or fiberglass/recycled denim insulation for the same effectiveness. So in larger enclosures it can become difficult to hold the polyfil in place which is why it's easier to use something in sheet form to line the walls.
Looked at getting the denim but noticed it was 1.6 inches thick. Dont I need 2 inches thick? Having a hard time finding acoustic foam that states it is open cell. Anyone else welcomed to come in I'm finding places online selling acoustic foam but not sure what is owen or closed cell.

From DIYSG: If you do not have polyfill then line the walls with 1" - 1.5" thick open cell foam (like acoustic foam), 2" - 3" of denim insulation, or 2" - 3" thick poly batting.
Some of the speaker designers like to lines the walls of their ported enclosures with a 1" - 1.5" acoustic foam, and then lightly fill the remainder of the cabinet with polyfill. If this is a required method, it will be listed at the top of the page under 'Assembly Notes'
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post #137 of 168 Old 05-04-2020, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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post #138 of 168 Old 05-04-2020, 12:39 PM
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The denim has been used in many builds with good results.
I picked some up some for my ht12’s, but haven’t gotten them put together yet.

Chris
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post #139 of 168 Old 05-04-2020, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
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The denim has been used in many builds with good results.
I picked some up some for my ht12’️s, but haven’️t gotten them put together yet.

Chris
Home depot stuff? Or just denim in general. I'm finding recycled denim and recycled eco core, which is recycled news paper from acoustimac.
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Home depot stuff? Or just denim in general. I'm finding recycled denim and recycled eco core, which is recycled news paper from acoustimac.

The home depot stuff. Had to order it, none available around here. Ordered 6 rolls, assume I’ll build more cabs in the future.

Chris
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post #141 of 168 Old 05-04-2020, 01:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a77cj7 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post
Home depot stuff? Or just denim in general. I'm finding recycled denim and recycled eco core, which is recycled news paper from acoustimac.

The home depot stuff. Had to order it, none available around here. Ordered 6 rolls, assume I’️ll build more cabs in the future.

Chris
I noticed its 1.6 inches thick. Double it up, or it's ok at 1.6. I thought 2 inches minimum for denim.
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post #142 of 168 Old 05-04-2020, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by nezff View Post
I noticed its 1.6 inches thick. Double it up, or it's ok at 1.6. I thought 2 inches minimum for denim.

I believe everyone runs it at 1.6in. I am not qualified to say whether that is adequate or not.
@mtg90

Chris
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post #143 of 168 Old 05-04-2020, 01:33 PM
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The 1.6 inches thick rolls from home depot are fine, at first I thought it sounded too thin but after I purchased some I realized it's plenty thick enough.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a77cj7 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post
I noticed its 1.6 inches thick. Double it up, or it's ok at 1.6. I thought 2 inches minimum for denim.

I believe everyone runs it at 1.6in. I am not qualified to say whether that is adequate or not.
@mtg90

Chris
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post
The 1.6 inches thick rolls from home depot are fine, at first I thought it sounded too thin but after I purchased some I realized it's plenty thick enough.
Thank you. Ordered some.
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post #145 of 168 Old 05-06-2020, 05:13 PM - Thread Starter
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post #146 of 168 Old 05-07-2020, 07:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Lots of boxes to go through. Plan on sitting down and going through everything. @Erich H Does a excellent packing job!
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post #147 of 168 Old 05-07-2020, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Question. I thought I might be going too big on the boxes to get the 4.0ish cuft for the 40hz tune. Am I going to lose 1 whole cubic foot after bracing, woofers, waveguides, etc..? My initial largest box I wanted to go with was 14.75 wide x 16 deep x 45 tall which is 4.84 cubic feet. Am I going to be below 4.0cuft after subtracting everything?

I just cant build a box 5.0 cubic foot in my room. Too big.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

graphs are 40hz tune with 80hz filter.



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post #148 of 168 Old 05-07-2020, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
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40hz with different size boxes
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post #149 of 168 Old 05-07-2020, 12:44 PM
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You are way over-thinking this. Just build them to the specs you listed about, it will work out just fine! Just make some sawdust!
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post #150 of 168 Old 05-07-2020, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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You are way over-thinking this. Just build them to the specs you listed about, it will work out just fine! Just make some sawdust! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
I know! Just making sure I'm doing this right. 🤯
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