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post #31 of 65 Old 04-17-2020, 07:52 PM
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Hey chris thanks for the shoutout. Yeah I switched out my rf7iii and rc64iii center for the 1299s ported and 1099 center. Ultimately I’m very pleased and would highly recommend the Diysg speakers. I loved the rf7iii but the 1299s just have a much better tone IMO. I was expecting a tad more midbass from the 1299s but I think it’s basically on par with the rf7iiis if not a little more. The only thing the rf7s has over the 1299s is I felt they had a tiny bit more upper frequency and came off brighter. If that is something you like then you can’t go wrong with the rf7s. The finish of the rf7s are stunning also. Diy will get you a equal or better sound IMO and “can” cost a lot less. I say can bc depending on your finish it can add up quickly. By the time I finished my speakers in veneer and used high quality binding post etc I think I was closer to the $800 per speaker range. I believe I’m in about $2500 into my 3 speakers. Duratex is a great product and can reduce the cost significantly. The veneer glue alone cost me a little over $400. The other thing to consider is time. All three speakers took me about a months time to build. You could likely complete it significantly faster but working around life expect them to take a good chunk of time to get them perfect.


TLDR: if you have the time and are even remotely handy you will love the 1099s or 1299s they are incredible speakers. You will have 0 regrets going this route over the rf7s.


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post #32 of 65 Old 04-17-2020, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey chris thanks for the shoutout. Yeah I switched out my rf7iii and rc64iii center for the 1299s ported and 1099 center. Ultimately I’️m very pleased and would highly recommend the Diysg speakers. I loved the rf7iii but the 1299s just have a much better tone IMO. I was expecting a tad more midbass from the 1299s but I think it’️s basically on par with the rf7iiis if not a little more. The only thing the rf7s has over the 1299s is I felt they had a tiny bit more upper frequency and came off brighter. If that is something you like then you can’️t go wrong with the rf7s. The finish of the rf7s are stunning also. Diy will get you a equal or better sound IMO and “can” cost a lot less. I say can bc depending on your finish it can add up quickly. By the time I finished my speakers in veneer and used high quality binding post etc I think I was closer to the $800 per speaker range. I believe I’️m in about $2500 into my 3 speakers. Duratex is a great product and can reduce the cost significantly. The veneer glue alone cost me a little over $400. The other thing to consider is time. All three speakers took me about a months time to build. You could likely complete it significantly faster but working around life expect them to take a good chunk of time to get them perfect.


TLDR: if you have the time and are even remotely handy you will love the 1099s or 1299s they are incredible speakers. You will have 0 regrets going this route over the rf7s.


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Awesome! Thanks so much for getting to me on that and giving a little input. I run a business and don’t have kids so I’ve got a decent amount of time for projects! Also, I wouldn’t be going a veneer route, on the 4 VBSS I built I used duratex and LOVED the outcome. Also, since I’ll be using a dedicated room for my HT and it’ll be very dark 90% of the time I’m 100% fine with going the duratex route. I feel like it gives them a very durable and professional look. Don’t get me wrong, veneer is awesome and if cost was the same or they were going to be in my living room I’d do that, but in my case duratex shall suffice. Now I just need some find someone within 2 or 3 hours of Cadiz, Kentucky so I can hear them in person before I bite the bullet and start building them.
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post #33 of 65 Old 04-17-2020, 08:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll let you come listen to it and even bring some of your own 4k blu-rays to test on it if you pass my background check and I wind up going that route! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
lol let me know what you need to do the background check!
10-4! I’ll let you know closer to time! Lol 😂
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post #34 of 65 Old 04-17-2020, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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@superkyle
I also had a few questions, if you don’t mind:
1. How many rms are you pushing each one?
2. Will they keep up with the klipsch’s in terms of volume without distortion?
3. Do you think 11 of them for atmos, surround, and LCR would keep up with the 4 full Martys and 2 devastators?

I know it may seem overkill, but hey, if overkill wasn’t allowed in this community that’d wipe out at least 95% of the member on this site. I definitely believe in ALOT of head room and I don’t want to build another HT system for a very long time.

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post #35 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 04:18 AM
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1099's for surrounds, oh dear god, lol.

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post #36 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 05:01 AM
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New Build!!!

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Originally Posted by Howie11254 View Post
@superkyle
I also had a few questions, if you don’t mind:
1. How many rms are you pushing each one?
2. Will they keep up with the klipsch’s in terms of volume without distortion?
3. Do you think 11 of them for atmos, surround, and LCR would keep up with the 4 full Martys and 2 devastators?

I know it may seem overkill, but hey, if overkill wasn’t allowed in this community that’d wipe out at least 95% of the member on this site. I definitely believe in ALOT of head room and I don’t want to build another HT system for a very long time.

1) I am using an emotiva DR3 amp. It pushes 450WPC. When I transitioned the 1299s from a sealed configuration to ported @eng-399 helped me find the best tune and port size such that 450W was perfect for them.

2) I actually think the 1099/1299 do much better at OMG loud volumes. The klipsch did fine also but when played above reference was just a bit too much. The 1299s when played at the same volume are more tolerable for me. One thing to note is my room is not heavily treated so YMMV on this one but both can play louder than you would want and I like it loud. I’ve got two beast mode version devastators and I have no problem with them keeping up

3) my opinion on this might vary from others. In theory all 1099s for everything is awesome. I feel like in practice it might not be so good. The reason I say this is take atmos for example. You really want a speaker that has even dispersion in all directions. The wave guide on these are mainly for left and right dispersion not up and down so getting an even sound field over several seats would likely be difficult or impossible. It’s like buying a horizontal center and standing it up it’s just a no no. For the rears and surrounds it can work but again having a 1099 as a surround vs something like a volt 6 or 8 will yield the same results and be much easier to Build and install.

Extra credit: as someone who has owned both speakers you are looking at...if money was no object and I wanted to build a home theater with no regrets I would look at jtr. The only speaker I will replace my 1299s for would be the 212HTR or the 212RT. Just figured I would throw that out there.


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post #37 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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1) I am using an emotiva DR3 amp. It pushes 450WPC. When I transitioned the 1299s from a sealed configuration to ported @eng-399 helped me find the best tune and port size such that 450W was perfect for them.

2) I actually think the 1099/1299 do much better at OMG loud volumes. The klipsch did fine also but when played above reference was just a bit too much. The 1299s when played at the same volume are more tolerable for me. One thing to note is my room is not heavily treated so YMMV on this one but both can play louder than you would want and I like it loud. I’ve got two beast mode version devastators and I have no problem with them keeping up

3) my opinion on this might vary from others. In theory all 1099s for everything is awesome. I feel like in practice it might not be so good. The reason I say this is take atmos for example. You really want a speaker that has even dispersion in all directions. The wave guide on these are mainly for left and right dispersion not up and down so getting an even sound field over several seats would likely be difficult or impossible. It’s like buying a horizontal center and standing it up it’s just a no no. For the rears and surrounds it can work but again having a 1099 as a surround vs something like a volt 6 or 8 will yield the same results and be much easier to Build and install.

Extra credit: as someone who has owned both speakers you are looking at...if money was no object and I wanted to build a home theater with no regrets I would look at jtr. The only speaker I will replace my 1299s for would be the 212HTR or the 212RT. Just figured I would throw that out there.


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The jtr's are COMPLETELY out of question. I just looked them up and OMG!!! They're very impressive but far out of my price range at the time being. And with you pushing 450rms to them and them taking it comfortably, I just don't know if I would feel comfortable and be able to live with myself only feeding them 150 or so a piece when I know they can handle so much more. And before everyone chimes in saying "well you could technically push them with 10 watts", that's true but it kinda defeats the whole purpose of having these speakers to begin with. What are some options where I could have that kind of power to each of the 11 speakers while still having dolby atmos and such?
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post #38 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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The jtr's are COMPLETELY out of question. I just looked them up and OMG!!! They're very impressive but far out of my price range at the time being. And with you pushing 450rms to them and them taking it comfortably, I just don't know if I would feel comfortable and be able to live with myself only feeding them 150 or so a piece when I know they can handle so much more. And before everyone chimes in saying "well you could technically push them with 10 watts", that's true but it kinda defeats the whole purpose of having these speakers to begin with. What are some options where I could have that kind of power to each of the 11 speakers while still having dolby atmos and such?
Also, @superkyle , I agree with what you said about utilizing the 1099's for atmos speakers....there are probably better options such as the volt 8. I'll definitely look into other options and suggestions that anyone makes. but I do plan on sticking with 1099's for LCR, LR sides, and rears....thanks again for the input!
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post #39 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 11:52 AM
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Another thing to think about with 1099 surrounds is your furniture.
You will have to be careful not to block drivers with your seating. Only the people on the outsides of the MLP will get the full surround sound from the closest speaker. The may not necessarily hear anything from the speakers on the other side, or from the rear. That's why I suggested the HT-10s for surrounds.
The HT-10s are physically smaller, allowing you to position them better. They are also a relatively simple 2-way, 2-driver design, unlike the 1099s that are 3-way, with 5 speaker drivers. Makes things simpler for the 4 or 6 surround speakers.
In order to fully utilize 1099s, you might run into the problem that they are mounted too high on the sides/rear to provide a separation from your Atmos channels.
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post #40 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Another thing to think about with 1099 surrounds is your furniture.
You will have to be careful not to block drivers with your seating. Only the people on the outsides of the MLP will get the full surround sound from the closest speaker. The may not necessarily hear anything from the speakers on the other side, or from the rear. That's why I suggested the HT-10s for surrounds.
The HT-10s are physically smaller, allowing you to position them better. They are also a relatively simple 2-way, 2-driver design, unlike the 1099s that are 3-way, with 5 speaker drivers. Makes things simpler for the 4 or 6 surround speakers.
In order to fully utilize 1099s, you might run into the problem that they are mounted too high on the sides/rear to provide a separation from your Atmos channels.
I hadn't given that much thought to this. However, I don't think it will pose that big of a problem, as I'm designing the room so I can specifically put a step up in the back and choose my seating where the head rest doesn't come up above ear level. The rears could just be elevated some. Or I could always just to LCR 1099's, side L&R 1099's, and then my rears could be volt 8's and my atmos speakers could be volt 8's also, as some of you guys have suggested. The main thing I'm considering now is how I'm going to power my 1099's sufficiently. As I said earlier, I know that 150 watts RMS will "technically" push them "good enough", but it defeats the whole purpose of having 1099's if you aren't going to give them what they need to perform to the highest of their ability. Does anybody have any suggestions of bi-amp configurations or some kind of separate method of "watt boosting" tied in with the watts already coming out of my receiver? like sort of an in line amplifier of sorts? or is there a total other way to maintain the dolby atmos configuration and amplify the speakers totally separately? Just give me some ideas guys! If anyone needs further explaining of what I'm asking for: I want a way to push dolby atmos into at least 5 1099's at 400-600 watts rms a piece, and at least 150 watts a piece to 6 volt 8's. I'd like to have the option of DSP on all 11 speakers, or at least some method of getting them to all work well together and be optimized for the room, even if its some automated system doing it for me. The plan is to give roughly 15-50 hertz to my full martys, 50-90 to my devastators, and 90 and above to my atmos, LCR, and surround. Ideally I'll have them all sloped into each others frequency ranges so they roll the frequencies off nicely to the next.

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post #41 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 02:31 PM
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You can get an AVR/AVP with pre-amplifier outputs to pass the signal to power amps, and then out to the speakers. Any AVR/AVP will have decent to excellent DSP for all channels, depending on how much you want to spend.

For example, you could get a cheap (and I mean cheap) Onkyo AVR that will power all your speakers, but it will have the lease effective DSP (Accu-EQ, I believe). Pioneer Elite has MCACC, Yamaha has YPAO, Denpn/Marantz uses Audessey, Anthem uses ARC, and NAD, Arcam, etc use Dirac. ARC and Dirac DSP are considered the most powerful software, with Audessey not too far behind.
I am not an expert on power amps, but from what I have read, D-Sonic amps are pretty good at the power levels you are looking at. Just remember, that with every doubling of power, you gain 3dB in SPL. That adds up pretty fast once you get into the hundreds of Watts, since a perceived doubling of SPL is a 10dB gain.
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post #42 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 03:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sigpig View Post
You can get an AVR/AVP with pre-amplifier outputs to pass the signal to power amps, and then out to the speakers. Any AVR/AVP will have decent to excellent DSP for all channels, depending on how much you want to spend.

For example, you could get a cheap (and I mean cheap) Onkyo AVR that will power all your speakers, but it will have the lease effective DSP (Accu-EQ, I believe). Pioneer Elite has MCACC, Yamaha has YPAO, Denpn/Marantz uses Audessey, Anthem uses ARC, and NAD, Arcam, etc use Dirac. ARC and Dirac DSP are considered the most powerful software, with Audessey not too far behind.
I am not an expert on power amps, but from what I have read, D-Sonic amps are pretty good at the power levels you are looking at. Just remember, that with every doubling of power, you gain 3dB in SPL. That adds up pretty fast once you get into the hundreds of Watts, since a perceived doubling of SPL is a 10dB gain.
Thank you SO MUCH for the run down on brands and such. So I simply need single channel power amps? Or will they make a several channel power amp that I can plug the pre-amp's into? I'm assuming they'll have to be separate amps to keep all the channels separated and all. If I wind up going with LCR 1099's and LR side 1099's and volt 8's for everything else, then all I'll need extra watts from another amp for is the 5 1099's. The volt 8's will have plenty of power from the 150 watt/channel receiver. Thanks!
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All the DIYSG offerings will be a good fit, just about finding the best fit for you and your room. Although I think your slightly missing the point on powering them. Most of the designs are upwards of 95db sensitive, meaning on just a few watts they will already be at reference level volumes, it’s not a case of underfeeding them, it’s just all they need to get loud. You’d have to have a big room to ever need to push hundreds of watts into them. At their max rated power your ears would likely give up. AVR power is not sufficient but more than enough. For peace of mind you could use separarte amps and an AV processor, but this really isn’t necessary imo!


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post #44 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 05:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sigpig View Post
You can get an AVR/AVP with pre-amplifier outputs to pass the signal to power amps, and then out to the speakers. Any AVR/AVP will have decent to excellent DSP for all channels, depending on how much you want to spend.

For example, you could get a cheap (and I mean cheap) Onkyo AVR that will power all your speakers, but it will have the lease effective DSP (Accu-EQ, I believe). Pioneer Elite has MCACC, Yamaha has YPAO, Denpn/Marantz uses Audessey, Anthem uses ARC, and NAD, Arcam, etc use Dirac. ARC and Dirac DSP are considered the most powerful software, with Audessey not too far behind.
I am not an expert on power amps, but from what I have read, D-Sonic amps are pretty good at the power levels you are looking at. Just remember, that with every doubling of power, you gain 3dB in SPL. That adds up pretty fast once you get into the hundreds of Watts, since a perceived doubling of SPL is a 10dB gain.
Thank you SO MUCH for the run down on brands and such. So I simply need single channel power amps? Or will they make a several channel power amp that I can plug the pre-amp's into? I'm assuming they'll have to be separate amps to keep all the channels separated and all. If I wind up going with LCR 1099's and LR side 1099's and volt 8's for everything else, then all I'll need extra watts from another amp for is the 5 1099's. The volt 8's will have plenty of power from the 150 watt/channel receiver. Thanks!
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post #45 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 05:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by monty6400 View Post
All the DIYSG offerings will be a good fit, just about finding the best fit for you and your room. Although I think your slightly missing the point on powering them. Most of the designs are upwards of 95db sensitive, meaning on just a few watts they will already be at reference level volumes, it’s not a case of underfeeding them, it’s just all they need to get loud. You’d have to have a big room to ever need to push hundreds of watts into them. A
t their max rated power your ears would likely give up. AVR power is not sufficient but more than enough. For peace of mind you could use separarte amps and an AV processor, but this really isn’t necessary imo!


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Thank you for the input!
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post #46 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 05:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sigpig View Post
You can get an AVR/AVP with pre-amplifier outputs to pass the signal to power amps, and then out to the speakers. Any AVR/AVP will have decent to excellent DSP for all channels, depending on how much you want to spend.

For example, you could get a cheap (and I mean cheap) Onkyo AVR that will power all your speakers, but it will have the lease effective DSP (Accu-EQ, I believe). Pioneer Elite has MCACC, Yamaha has YPAO, Denpn/Marantz uses Audessey, Anthem uses ARC, and NAD, Arcam, etc use Dirac. ARC and Dirac DSP are considered the most powerful software, with Audessey not too far behind.
I am not an expert on power amps, but from what I have read, D-Sonic amps are pretty good at the power levels you are looking at. Just remember, that with every doubling of power, you gain 3dB in SPL. That adds up pretty fast once you get into the hundreds of Watts, since a perceived doubling of SPL is a 10dB gain.
I took a look at the D-sonic line of amplifiers, and they have some awesome offerings, that's more than likely what I'm going to wind up going with.
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Here is a compariosn of 11 1099s being driven by 150wpc vs 450wpc - 117db vs 122db or just a shade over being noticeable. You can find the calculator here : https://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html
Most people can only start to pick something as being louder once it is increased by 3db so a 5db increase will be louder but not by much. Decibels are logarithmic but it still takes 10db to be perceived as twice as loud.
117db is plenty loud enough methinks - and depending on your room size (16' wide) and speaker positioning (in corners or wall/ceiling junctions) with 150w you could be as loud as 130db

On another note having all 11 identical speakers should be an improvement over mixing and matching. I initially ran my 7.1.4 setup with old (1990s) Mordaunt Short towers for L&R, MS standmount from same range with same drivers but different tweeters for centre and MS standmounts with same tweeters but different drives for surrounds and MS bookshelfs from same series for rear surrounds and atmos. Then I changed them all to the identical bookshelfs and the soundfield improved significantly - it was completely seamless and fully enveloping and I highly recommend having all identical speakers if you can afford it and can physically do it.

Also depending on your room and if you want to trim the budget, you may want to consider just doing 5.x.4 - I have just tested 5.x.4 against 7.x.4, 7.x.6 and 7.x.7 and found the extra speakers were a step up in each case but the step was so small it was not worth the extra expense and hassle. My basic finding of 5 vs 7 was that 7 filled the bubble of sound a bit more and gave more ambience but the discreet effects of bullets whizzing around etc was almost identical to just 5 speakers. And that was with speakers in pretty much ideal locations for each format as I moved the surrounds to match.
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post #48 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 08:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a compariosn of 11 1099s being driven by 150wpc vs 450wpc - 117db vs 122db or just a shade over being noticeable. You can find the calculator here : https://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html
Most people can only start to pick something as being louder once it is increased by 3db so a 5db increase will be louder but not by much. Decibels are logarithmic but it still takes 10db to be perceived as twice as loud.
117db is plenty loud enough methinks - and depending on your room size (16' wide) and speaker positioning (in corners or wall/ceiling junctions) with 150w you could be as loud as 130db

On another note having all 11 identical speakers should be an improvement over mixing and matching. I initially ran my 7.1.4 setup with old (1990s) Mordaunt Short towers for L&R, MS standmount from same range with same drivers but different tweeters for centre and MS standmounts with same tweeters but different drives for surrounds and MS bookshelfs from same series for rear surrounds and atmos. Then I changed them all to the identical bookshelfs and the soundfield improved significantly - it was completely seamless and fully enveloping and I highly recommend having all identical speakers if you can afford it and can physically do it.

Also depending on your room and if you want to trim the budget, you may want to consider just doing 5.x.4 - I have just tested 5.x.4 against 7.x.4, 7.x.6 and 7.x.7 and found the extra speakers were a step up in each case but the step was so small it was not worth the extra expense and hassle. My basic finding of 5 vs 7 was that 7 filled the bubble of sound a bit more and gave more ambience but the discreet effects of bullets whizzing around etc was almost identical to just 5 speakers. And that was with speakers in pretty much ideal locations for each format as I moved the surrounds to match.
Thank you so much for the detailed write-up! That’s awesome! The only thing I noticed was that you put the 1099’s sensitivity at 95 db, when it’s 99 db. When you tested the 7 speaker setup, where were your speakers placed? Did you have any for atmos or was that just surround? Thank you!
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post #49 of 65 Old 04-18-2020, 08:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a compariosn of 11 1099s being driven by 150wpc vs 450wpc - 117db vs 122db or just a shade over being noticeable. You can find the calculator here : https://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html
Most people can only start to pick something as being louder once it is increased by 3db so a 5db increase will be louder but not by much. Decibels are logarithmic but it still takes 10db to be perceived as twice as loud.
117db is plenty loud enough methinks - and depending on your room size (16' wide) and speaker positioning (in corners or wall/ceiling junctions) with 150w you could be as loud as 130db

On another note having all 11 identical speakers should be an improvement over mixing and matching. I initially ran my 7.1.4 setup with old (1990s) Mordaunt Short towers for L&R, MS standmount from same range with same drivers but different tweeters for centre and MS standmounts with same tweeters but different drives for surrounds and MS bookshelfs from same series for rear surrounds and atmos. Then I changed them all to the identical bookshelfs and the soundfield improved significantly - it was completely seamless and fully enveloping and I highly recommend having all identical speakers if you can afford it and can physically do it.

Also depending on your room and if you want to trim the budget, you may want to consider just doing 5.x.4 - I have just tested 5.x.4 against 7.x.4, 7.x.6 and 7.x.7 and found the extra speakers were a step up in each case but the step was so small it was not worth the extra expense and hassle. My basic finding of 5 vs 7 was that 7 filled the bubble of sound a bit more and gave more ambience but the discreet effects of bullets whizzing around etc was almost identical to just 5 speakers. And that was with speakers in pretty much ideal locations for each format as I moved the surrounds to match.
I plugged the numbers into the calculator with the 99db sensitivity.....134.2 dB......whew. I can’t even imagine hearing 134.2 dB clearly, even higher with the devastators and full Martys....if anything this just made me want to go for it even worse.
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Thank you so much for the detailed write-up! That’s awesome! The only thing I noticed was that you put the 1099’s sensitivity at 95 db, when it’s 99 db. When you tested the 7 speaker setup, where were your speakers placed? Did you have any for atmos or was that just surround? Thank you!
7 speakers were located as per Atmos specs with 2,4,6 and 7 Atmos speakers and also with surrounds at 80, 90 and 110deg - 80 sounded the best in a 7.x.x setup but 110 is definitely best for 5.x.x.

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Thank you so much for the detailed write-up! That’️s awesome! The only thing I noticed was that you put the 1099’️s sensitivity at 95 db, when it’️s 99 db. When you tested the 7 speaker setup, where were your speakers placed? Did you have any for atmos or was that just surround? Thank you!
7 speakers were located as per Atmos specs with 2,4,,6 and 7 Atmos speakers and also with surrounds at 80, 90 and 110deg - 80 sounded the best in a 7.x.x setup but 110 is definitely best for 5.x.x.
Understood! Again, thanks for the input brother!
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Understood! Again, thanks for the input brother!
Also FYI I have settled on 5.x.4 in my 20x14x9 room for now but plan to test 5.x.5 with a central Voice of God atmos speaker.
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I plugged the numbers into the calculator with the 99db sensitivity.....134.2 dB......whew. I can’t even imagine hearing 134.2 dB clearly, even higher with the devastators and full Martys....if anything this just made me want to go for it even worse.

Again, not to burst your bubble, but 134 dB of bass would be very loud but tolerable, 134 dB coming from the mains and surrounds would ruin your ears in seconds, for me 110dba is the limit for my ears before it gets painful, about the level of rock concerts etc! My system taps out at just above 126DBC


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post #54 of 65 Old 04-19-2020, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Understood! Again, thanks for the input brother!
Also FYI I have settled on 5.x.4 in my 20x14x9 room for now but plan to test 5.x.5 with a central Voice of God atmos speaker.
Hmm...never heard of a single atmos speakers. I’ll have to do a little research on the pros and cons.
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I plugged the numbers into the calculator with the 99db sensitivity.....134.2 dB......whew. I can’️t even imagine hearing 134.2 dB clearly, even higher with the devastators and full Martys....if anything this just made me want to go for it even worse.

Again, not to burst your bubble, but 134 dB of bass would be very loud but tolerable, 134 dB coming from the mains and surrounds would ruin your ears in seconds, for me 110dba is the limit for my ears before it gets painful, about the level of rock concerts etc! My system taps out at just above 126DBC


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Understood...I’m getting where you’re coming from. It would be so intolerable to crank 134 DB “higher frequency” speakers that high, that there’s no point in really having THAT much head room.
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Understood...I’m getting where you’re coming from. It would be so intolerable to crank 134 DB “higher frequency” speakers that high, that there’s no point in really having THAT much head room.

Have you got any speakers at the moment and a UMiK 1? It’s hard to explain unless you have first hand experience, 110dba is awfully loud!


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post #57 of 65 Old 04-19-2020, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Understood...I’️m getting where you’️re coming from. It would be so intolerable to crank 134 DB “higher frequency” speakers that high, that there’️s no point in really having THAT much head room.

Have you got any speakers at the moment and a UMiK 1? It’️s hard to explain unless you have first hand experience, 110dba is awfully loud!


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I don’t have a umike, but I have a pair of rp280f’s on a Harmon kardon 3770, along with 4 VBSS’s on a 3000D behringer.
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Have you ever maxed out the receiver listening to films or music?


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post #59 of 65 Old 04-19-2020, 03:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Have you ever maxed out the receiver listening to films or music?


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The highest I’ve ever had it is +5. The klipsch speakers will start to distort slightly at that point on most songs so I rarely crank it above +5.
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post #60 of 65 Old 04-19-2020, 07:28 PM
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Hmm...never heard of a single atmos speakers. I’ll have to do a little research on the pros and cons.
Its not a real atmos speaker - you have to use 3 Dolby Pro logic decoders to extract sounds from the 4 proper Atmos speakers to drive the single central speaker. It is just reinforcing what should be stereo imaged at that point. Same as extracting a centre image from just the L&R speakers. See here : https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...ive-audio.html
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