DIY Danley SH-50/SH-60 blend (synergy horn)
Long time lurker and researcher on this site and this is my first post so be kind.
About two years ago I became enamored with Danleys Synergy horn and decided I wanted to build one. It seemed a lofty goal at the time. I started my speaker building journey converting so Elemetal Designs subs upgraded with Stereo Integrity 18" and some Inukes. I then built a midbass module with a JBL 2242. Last was a pair of DIY volts with a PRV CD and the Eminence beta10cx, this is where I started to learn crossovers.
Then came the synergy horns. My brother is a carpenter so I knew we could build the boxes and my goal was to be able to make a cost effective replica of the SH-50.
Through reading a million other posts I decided on the PRV 290py-b from SpeakerScotts build as the CD, Celestion TF0510MR as the mids (Danley uses the 4" version) I couldn't find them so I bought the 5" and figured I would make it work. Now I know that you actually can find the 4" versions (slaps self in forehead). I used what I have. I didn't want to spend a ton on the faitalpro drives for the 12" woofers as Danley does so I narrowed it down to 2 choices. Eminence Delta 12LFC and Eminence Delta 12B. I wanted the speaker to go down as low as possible and still retain a decent sensitivity. The Delta 12 LFC fits the bill. I can get to around 45Hz with authority. The 12B can be used and sensitivity will skyrocket but you will only get to 80Hz or so and I wanted to be able to use it alone without a sub though I plan to build one using the JBL 2242 I have (that will be a separate thread).
Pic 1 is during the cone design phase which was the hardest part of the build. This is revision 4. I made 2 versions based on speaker scotts design then scrapped it because of several issues. My original design was to copy the Danley horn but I thought it would be too difficult. Version 3 my brother the carpenter made a a 60 (Sh-60) degree pyramid though it was out of scrap and had two different thickness woods so I couldn't use it. I found a great cut calculator in another thread somewhere else and V4 is what you see which has great seams and is ridiculously strong. We did 60 degrees as 50 was too narrow for the 5"mid.
The entrance was made using the compound miter saw and then sanding off a few degrees to get totally flat (the numbers for the cuts are weird like 27.9 degrees so its not exact like a CNC machine. We left it smaller than 1" so I could smooth the entrance. Midrange taps were the same as danley 3/4" at 3.5" from CD and instead of using frustrums I tapered the holes with a step hole bit he had and then dremeled them smooth. Woofer taps and ports were 2.5" hole saw using drill press at 10.5" and 14.5" respectively. Pilot holes through all 4 boards were used for consistency. The woofer taps are about 1/2" in from the side walls, this is where the 4" mid helps and I could have pushed them out to the walls. With the wavelength of the woofer I figured it shouldn't make a huge difference. I still have to frustrumize the woofer taps with a router will likely us a 45degree bit to take off half of the port.
For the secondary flare we added 20 degrees (100 degrees total), retrospectively I believe danley doubles the flare rate but this is what I found and worked for the box we built. It helps with lobing and beaming. A 1.5" lip was put on flush to be able to mount the cone to some wood bracing placed on the inside of the box. My bro wrapped me a box around the cone. Danley gets away with a triangular box as the VAS is much smaller than drivers I could find. Final dimensions 29.75x29.75x22.5
Pic 3 in truck for some perspective. Pic 4+5 is after using PL for the seams and wood filler to smooth the inside of the cone and the CD entry. Pic 6 is with drivers on (still missing one woofer). Pic 6 is obviously a sweep.
Speakers were wired and sweeps were performed using REW for frd files and zma files using a DATS V2. I trialed a basic crossover and a LeCleach crossover as the goal is the make them passive eventually (using my sub amps currently, inukes). I want to keep cost down so getting them perfectly phase perfect isn't a priority. I haven't dialed in delays to see if it makes a huge difference in clarity. That will be for this week. Goal is to dial in some cheap crossovers that work well so I can build a second one... grins :-) So far a 2nd order on CD, 1st orders on mid and 2nd on woofer work well and give me 3rd-4th orders with the natural acoustic rolloff. I read through bwaslos cosyne method for quasi phase perfect crossover but I don't know how to use PCD or virtuixcad well enough to go that crazy. I can post frd/zma for anyone that wants to play with a different crossover that may be better as this is my weakest area. I can't figure out how to model CD compensation and whether it is worth it.
Thanks for reading and feel free to ask questions... - Dave
Oh and my listening impressions, same as speaker scott. They are beyond my expectations. There is something magic in the design if someone like me can make a build and have it sound that good. With one the clarity, evenness of tone on and off axis and raw horsepower of these are amazing. The directionality is incredible they are very quiet standing behind them. I did demo's in my backyard on 2 acres well wooded and only got to 50 volume on the laptop as I thought the cops would show up. I will open them up at my brothers farm as he has 10 acres. These are intended to be outdoor speakers for gatherings if we ever have one again (stupid COVID).
Last edited by dpdpdp; 05-18-2020 at 09:06 AM.