AV15H Dual 18" PR Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 28 Old 06-20-2020, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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AV15H Dual 18" PR Build

So it's been over 10 years, moved into a larger house that is dwarfing the low end output of my old sealed dual opposed AV15H subs, and thought I'd try out the old ~5.5 cubic foot dual PR based AV15H that "came and went" way back when. More importantly, I'm just bored and wanted to build something different.

Did a Sketchup of the design, still debating whether to try staining the birch white or doing some form of white wash vs a dark stain as they are today. My wall unit is white, so was thinking the white subs would compliment it.

Will use my Funk Audio 2x2400 amp for now to power these, though I'm wondering if I can use 1 channel to drive both subs given xmax is around 1000-1100 Watts.
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My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233892

Quote:

J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 


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post #2 of 28 Old 06-20-2020, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Contacted Mark and Mach 5 Audio to build the 18" PR's for me, they had the following specs before he added mass to get it to 2500grams.

Fs - 23Hz
Qms - 8
Sd - 1209cm2
VAS - 240L
Xmax - 35mm
Mms - 380g

Had contacted John at AE, but the cost after FX rate and shipping would have been too much. Mark was great, told me it would take 2 or 3 weeks before he could build the woofers for me, then when he was ready I sent a small deposit, and about 1.5 weeks later I received my first PR yesterday (not sure why Purolator only sent 1 and the other 3 are expected Monday).

Had the cut sheets cut for me by Century Mill Lumber out of 13 ply Baltic Birch. Then started on the circles using my Jasper 200 and router.

WinISD file and Driver pics attached. Also test fitted the 18.5" cutout to see if it would be flush ... perfect.

Okay, finished all the circle cuts. Dust wasn't too bad.
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My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233892

Quote:

J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 


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post #3 of 28 Old 06-20-2020, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233892

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J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 


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post #4 of 28 Old 06-20-2020, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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post #5 of 28 Old 06-20-2020, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
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My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233892

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J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 

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post #6 of 28 Old 06-20-2020, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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So found the AV15H pdf online for dimensions, but now I can't recall, the first pic says the internal dimension is 14", the second shows 14.188". On my Jasper jig, would I choose 14 3/16, or 14 1/4? Screw holes seem to be 14.688?

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http://aespeakers.com/pdfs/AV15-dimensional.pdf

Edit: Went with 14 3/16, hopefully it fits, was too lazy to remove the driver from the existing enclosure.

 

My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233892

Quote:

J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 


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post #7 of 28 Old 06-20-2020, 01:45 PM
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Glad Mark worked out for you! Keep us posted!
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post #8 of 28 Old 06-20-2020, 02:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, he was great during the process. Thx for the recco.

 

My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233892

Quote:

J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 

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post #9 of 28 Old 06-21-2020, 04:49 PM
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Nice room + nice subs. Are you doing two or four PR boxes? What tuning are you planning for your subs? If you were using the Funk amp two channels before with no issues, I would do the same with this build. I'll be following your build and impressions. I have a feeling that you are going to be very happy with their low end, to go along with their great mid-bass.
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post #10 of 28 Old 06-21-2020, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Two PR boxes for now. I have weigh for up to 2500 grams, which I think tunes it to somewhere in the 16 to 18hz range.

For the life of me I can't recall, what size screws (1.5" or 1.25") do I purchase to mount the drivers, and were folks recommending Hurricane nuts or T nuts?

Would this stuff work fine as gasket tape?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07...254OSKWZ&psc=1

It's closed cell neoprene vs PVC.

 

My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233892

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J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 

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post #11 of 28 Old 06-22-2020, 02:56 PM
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So you are going to use the dual PR subs with the dual opposed sealed sub? That gasket tape should be fine but I would go with 3/4" width. I got mine at Home Depot. I used 1.5" screws for my subs but 1.25" should also work fine.

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post #12 of 28 Old 06-22-2020, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spanish68 View Post
So you are going to use the dual PR subs with the dual opposed sealed sub? That gasket tape should be fine but I would go with 3/4" width. I got mine at home depot. I used 1.5" screws for my subs but 1.25" should also work fine.
Thx, 3/4" width by 1/4" thick?

 

My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233892

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J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 

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post #13 of 28 Old 06-22-2020, 03:23 PM
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Yes.
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post #14 of 28 Old 06-22-2020, 03:37 PM
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Also, I would add some bracing from the front baffle to the back of the enclosure, maybe some dowels.
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post #15 of 28 Old 06-22-2020, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spanish68 View Post
Also, I would add some bracing from the front baffle to the back of the enclosure, maybe some dowels.

3/4" or 1" dowels work well. I usually leave the front baffle for last, get the dowels glued in place with PL, put a nice large dollop of PL on the end of the dowels and then affix the front baffle. The PL expands so any slight gap you might have between the dowel end and the baffle gets filled. Then I fillet around the end of the dowel with PL after it is assembled just to make sure it is secure. It's messy and doesn't look great, but who cares how it looks since it's on the inside. The PL makes a pretty solid connection, and so far I haven't had one break loose on me. So far.


Looking at the photos above, I keep trying to figure out something to do with all the dang wood circles I have in the garage. I've used a few for corner braces, but since you can make 4 from one circle, I still have quite a few left over.
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post #16 of 28 Old 06-22-2020, 04:41 PM - Thread Starter
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3/4" or 1" dowels work well. I usually leave the front baffle for last, get the dowels glued in place with PL, put a nice large dollop of PL on the end of the dowels and then affix the front baffle. The PL expands so any slight gap you might have between the dowel end and the baffle gets filled. Then I fillet around the end of the dowel with PL after it is assembled just to make sure it is secure. It's messy and doesn't look great, but who cares how it looks since it's on the inside. The PL makes a pretty solid connection, and so far I haven't had one break loose on me. So far.


Looking at the photos above, I keep trying to figure out something to do with all the dang wood circles I have in the garage. I've used a few for corner braces, but since you can make 4 from one circle, I still have quite a few left over.
Stain them and you have some cheese and meat serving plates?
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post #17 of 28 Old 06-22-2020, 04:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by spanish68 View Post
I used 1.5" screws for my subs but 1.25" should also work fine.
These should do the trick.

https://www.amazon.ca/Hard-Find-Fast...H3BMKJG50VQ3MF

 

My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233892

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J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 

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post #18 of 28 Old 06-28-2020, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by spanish68 View Post
So you are going to use the dual PR subs with the dual opposed sealed sub? That gasket tape should be fine but I would go with 3/4" width. I got mine at Home Depot. I used 1.5" screws for my subs but 1.25" should also work fine.
Have a link to the screws you used? The ones I bought were way too thick (thought that 1/4" was equivalent to an M10 but it's larger).

Also, what are folks using for the binding posts these days? Just looking for something easy to put on the double wall back of the enclosure.

Might try gluing one of the enclosures today and just not the top yet, though I feel like I'm forgetting something that I'll remember right after it's glued! lol

 

My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233892

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post #19 of 28 Old 06-28-2020, 11:12 AM
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With my latest build, dual sealed Eminence NSW 21", I went to homedepo and got deep thread 1.5" screws and I believe they were #6 (width). You'll need either #8 or #6 and 1.25" or 1.5" in lenght. Phillip head is fine. Basic, but they worked great for me. As long as they are wood screws (deep thread), they'll work to mount your PR's and drivers.

With regards to the connectors. In my case, since I have one Speakerpower HT4000 plate amp powering my two subs, I used Speakon Neutrik 4 pole connector. You'll need one per box and the connecting wire if you're using one amp or one amp channel to power two subs. If it is just one amp or one amp channel for one sub, then a simple cup connector (round or square) should do the trick. Also, since my Speakerpower amp had a speakon connector, I only needed one speakon connector. Does your amp have the speakon connector?

Check partsexpress to get ideas or if you need to shop some sub supplies. If you need sub feet, grille mesh, etc, you can get it there. I just ordered some mesh since I'm going to build two grilles for my two subs and will use magnets to mount them.

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post #20 of 28 Old 06-28-2020, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Thx, already have speaker cable from my rack amp to the sub locations and I terminated them with banana plugs where the existing subs are, so trying to locate something simple I can install after putting the box together vs before. Being in Canada Parts express unfortunately has a high shipping cost!

 

My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233892

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post #21 of 28 Old 07-02-2020, 05:13 PM
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Thx, already have speaker cable from my rack amp to the sub locations and I terminated them with banana plugs where the existing subs are, so trying to locate something simple I can install after putting the box together vs before. Being in Canada Parts express unfortunately has a high shipping cost!
You can get Neutrik SpeakON connector 4-packs for $8.99CAD on amazon.ca. Add on the flange connector (search for "speakon" and it will show up in the list) for $3.99 each and you're set. Just use simple 12-guage speaker wire.

Basement 5.1.4: Anthem MRX 720, Monoprice 2-channel amp, Paradigm Prestige 85F/55C/15B. PSB Alpha A1/P3 for Atmos HSU STF-2, ATV4K, XBox OneS, Harmony Ultimate, Samsung 65" Q7D.
Living room: Yamaha YSP-6000 with 10" Yamaha sub, ATV3, Harmony Ultimate, 55" Insignia 1080P.
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Originally Posted by sigpig View Post
You can get Neutrik SpeakON connector 4-packs for $8.99CAD on amazon.ca. Add on the flange connector (search for "speakon" and it will show up in the list) for $3.99 each and you're set. Just use simple 12-guage speaker wire.
Thx.. Found the flanges but not the 4 pack of neutrik for 8.99?

 

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Thx.. Found the flanges but not the 4 pack of neutrik for 8.99?
https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Speakon...3738014&sr=8-3

Basement 5.1.4: Anthem MRX 720, Monoprice 2-channel amp, Paradigm Prestige 85F/55C/15B. PSB Alpha A1/P3 for Atmos HSU STF-2, ATV4K, XBox OneS, Harmony Ultimate, Samsung 65" Q7D.
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post #24 of 28 Old 07-05-2020, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay, so made some progress on both boxes. Everything glued up and sanded except for the top and front baffles.

Rushed a bit too much on the second box last night, so unfortunately the top won't be perfectly square on that one.
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J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 

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post #25 of 28 Old 07-05-2020, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Couple questions:

1. Any particular kind of caulk that folks use for a final seal?
2. My AV15H drivers are 4ohm with 4 binding posts, they were wired originally for a dual opposed driver box as per the picture below. How do I wire them for this application where there is only 1 driver per box?

Fortunately my wife decided she doesn't like the thought of big white boxes and is happy with a dark brown stain.

Unfortunately I realized my measurements were about 2" short on the width of the grills, which I guess is fine as I'll use them as is and it will become more of a "feature"!
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post #26 of 28 Old 07-05-2020, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Still enjoy the look of the drivers.
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post #27 of 28 Old 07-05-2020, 11:51 AM
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Looks like you're making good progress. For sealing the inside of the box I would just use some wood glue. For wiring, use a wire for + to - between each sub's DVC, then + to + from one of the sub's DVC to the other sub's DVC and the same thing with - to -, from the same connection just mentioned, you run a + wire from the driver to the + connection of the amp and same thing with the - connection to one of your amp's channel for a load of 2ohm. You'll need one speakon connector in each box to run the wires. Each sub will get 1,200watts which is right on, assuming each channel of the Funk amp can handle 2ohm.
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post #28 of 28 Old 07-05-2020, 12:19 PM
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If your amp has speakon connectors, then you'll need three speakon connectors to connect everything. If not, then two speakon connectors and one binding cup speaker terminal should do the job.

Last edited by spanish68; 07-05-2020 at 12:35 PM.
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