G90 Green Error 30 after Dallas Chip Replaced - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 19 Old 04-15-2008, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Help:

I just replaced my Dallas Chip per Frank's instructions and when I power the G90 back up it gives me a green error 30. I should note that a pin broke (pin Vcc-32) off when I removed the old Dallas Chip from the eprom programmer. I think the download was ok and the reprogramming as everything verified. My device knobs on the back both got turned to "0" when I put the back panel back on and I put the one closest to the power cord back to "1." What should I do? I saved everything to the service block before starting the process. I'm hoping that the worst case senario is that I am going to have to dump my service block onto the new dallas chip. Of course, I know it could be worse than this, but I'm hanging onto that happy thought right now. Frank is definitely correct in that the Dallas chip does not come off the board easily. I tried to find a chip puller, but could not find one large enough. Used static guard and antistatic mat. Thanks

Jeff
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post #2 of 19 Old 04-15-2008, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaathiel View Post

Help:

I just replaced my Dallas Chip per Frank's instructions and when I power the G90 back up it gives me a green error 30. I should note that a pin broke (pin Vcc-32) off when I removed the old Dallas Chip from the eprom programmer. I think the download was ok and the reprogramming as everything verified. My device knobs on the back both got turned to "0" when I put the back panel back on and I put the one closest to the power cord back to "1." What should I do? I saved everything to the service block before starting the process. I'm hoping that the worst case senario is that I am going to have to dump my service block onto the new dallas chip. Of course, I know it could be worse than this, but I'm hanging onto that happy thought right now. Frank is definitely correct in that the Dallas chip does not come off the board easily. I tried to find a chip puller, but could not find one large enough. Used static guard and antistatic mat. Thanks

My guess is that you didn't get the new Dallas chip programmed properly

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post #3 of 19 Old 04-15-2008, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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I agree that that is likely the problem. Any suggestions as to what I should do now? I know error 30 is- User NVM format not available. Should I do a hard reset of the projector or try to reprogram the chip again? Thoughts and opinions most appreciated.

Jeff
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post #4 of 19 Old 04-15-2008, 09:52 PM
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Perhaps the pin broke upon first locking the old chip in the programmer creating an improper read?

Did your old Dallas chip have a dead/weak battery or no? (ie. weak/dead battery indicated by error codes 88, 88, 10 and then 11 when G90 turned off and then on by hardswitch on back - meaning G90 required upload of firmware)

Perhaps your reading of the chip was incomplete or corrupted due to the old Dallas chip battery being too weak.

What was the date of manufacture of your old Dallas chip? Can you tell me the code inscription that is on top of your old Dallas chip?

My old Dallas chip did have a weak battery (G90 firmware upload required if G90 turned off by hardswitch on back) but I still managed to read the old chip and write it to the new chip successfully with no problems. Furthermore reinstalling the new chip into my G90 got it working normal again (and no G90 firmware upload required either).

You can try writing your chip again. Can you some how reattach the loose pin to the old chip and reread the old chip?

In the G90 Service manual:
"30 Green User NVM format not available ! User Domain NVM is not formatted"

Also per G90 service manual:

"If Green : 30 (Lit) lights up on the 7-segment
LED of the YB board without going off, it means
that the software is requesting initialization of the
user SRAM. Press S202 for about 5 seconds in
the Green : 30 (lit) state, and the 7-segment LED
should change as follows.
Green :30 - 31 (Approx. 0.1 seconds) - Off
End of initialization
* Take note that initializing the user SRAM
erases all user data.
Turn on the power and check operations."

Let us know how it works out for you.
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post #5 of 19 Old 04-16-2008, 03:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank D View Post

Perhaps the pin broke upon first locking the old chip in the programmer creating an improper read?

Did your old Dallas chip have a dead/weak battery or no? (ie. weak/dead battery indicated by error codes 88, 88, 10 and then 11 when G90 turned off and then on by hardswitch on back - meaning G90 required upload of firmware)

Perhaps your reading of the chip was incomplete or corrupted due to the old Dallas chip battery being too weak.

What was the date of manufacture of your old Dallas chip? Can you tell me the code inscription that is on top of your old Dallas chip?

My old Dallas chip did have a weak battery (G90 firmware upload required if G90 turned off by hardswitch on back) but I still managed to read the old chip and write it to the new chip successfully with no problems. Furthermore reinstalling the new chip into my G90 got it working normal again (and no G90 firmware upload required either).

You can try writing your chip again. Can you some how reattach the loose pin to the old chip and reread the old chip?

In the G90 Service manual:
"30 Green User NVM format not available ! User Domain NVM is not formatted"

Also per G90 service manual:

"If Green : 30 (Lit) lights up on the 7-segment
LED of the YB board without going off, it means
that the software is requesting initialization of the
user SRAM. Press S202 for about 5 seconds in
the Green : 30 (lit) state, and the 7-segment LED
should change as follows.
Green :30 - 31 (Approx. 0.1 seconds) - Off
End of initialization
* Take note that initializing the user SRAM
erases all user data.
Turn on the power and check operations."

Let us know how it works out for you.

Thanks so much Frank for the reply. Ok, here's more info. Got no error code when main switch was swithced off. As such, I don't know if the battery was too weak. The number on the bottom of the Dallas chip reads "9913H 108978." With regards to trying to reread the chip I have seriously considered this option. The one problem I have is confirming that the eprom programmer is making contact with pin 32. As I am using the same programmer and software as you did do you know how I determine if I'm making contact? I'm not sure how to use the test feature where you appear to be able to select specific pins. I have copper foil which I could use to make a make shift contact point.

On option 2 what is "S202?" Is this a series of buttons on the remote? And if I do this and it erases user data - how do I restore said data with the data saved in the service block?

Thanks again as I very much appreciate your assistance. I will be indebted if you can help me get my projector up and running again.

Jeff
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post #6 of 19 Old 04-16-2008, 06:17 AM
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Jeff,
S202 is a momentary switch on the back middle edge of the YA board.
You will loose your data though if you try this method.

Terry

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post #7 of 19 Old 04-16-2008, 08:32 AM
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Jeff,
I just tried a Dallas that gives me red88, orange88 and then 30. Plus the unit in, turn on Main power so that you get 30, and carefully push and hold S202 (don't push so hard as to warp the YA board into grounding, in fact put your finger under the center of the board to support it when you do this) you will see it cycle as FrankD describes from the SM to eventually blank. You should then me able to turn on the PJ. Hrs will be gone though. But john described how you can use a programmer to put the hrs back in in another post.

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post #8 of 19 Old 04-16-2008, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuchuf View Post

Jeff,
I just tried a Dallas that gives me red88, orange88 and then 30. Plus the unit in, turn on Main power so that you get 30, and carefully push and hold S202 (don't push so hard as to warp the YA board into grounding, in fact put your finger under the center of the board to support it when you do this) you will see it cycle as FrankD describes from the SM to eventually blank. You should then me able to turn on the PJ. Hrs will be gone though. But john described how you can use a programmer to put the hrs back in in another post.

Terry

Terry:

Thanks - I'm at work and will have to attempt this measure tonight. Some quick questions related to your instruction. Should I be able to reach the S202 by simply taking off the 10 screw panel and reaching in with a finger? (My projector is mounted on the ceiling.) Next, will the projector automatically dump the calibration information I saved through the expert menu to the Dallas chip? (Ken W. calibrated my projector and I really do not want to lose this info.)
At this point, I'm not concerned about the hours. I just want to get it back up and running and enjoy it for many more year. Thanks

Jeff

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post #9 of 19 Old 04-16-2008, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaathiel View Post

Terry:

Should I be able to reach the S202 by simply taking off the 10 screw panel and reaching in with a finger? (My projector is mounted on the ceiling.) Next, will the projector automatically dump the calibration information I saved through the expert menu to the Dallas chip? (Ken W. calibrated my projector and I really do not want to lose this info.)

Jeff

Yes the S202 is near the rear edge of the YA board. There are two momentary switches there. S202 is the one directly behind the RS232/422 switch. And yes you can easily reach it while the PH is on the ceiling after taking off the cover.
As far as your setup data goes, if it was saved as "factory data" then using the reset button you should be able to reset to factory data. I have never done this before but it sound correct and there is a way using the switches on the YA board to recreate factory data from the current setup, Was that done??

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post #10 of 19 Old 04-16-2008, 01:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Before installing the Dallas chip I saved data to the Service Block as set out at page 132 of the installation guide. I see on page 130 that there are three blocks, user block, service block, and factory block. It appears that resetting the projected via the S202 will reset the user block. Can anyone confirm? Thanks again Terry for the additional information.

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post #11 of 19 Old 04-16-2008, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I reset the projector with the S202 switch and then downloaded the service block memory and everything seemed to go back the way it should be. I then let the PJ warm up to test dvd, blu-ray and directv. To my dismay I am now getting intermittent dark shadows and dark lines of various widths. Banding? The higher resolution the content the bigger the problem. Problem exists on both the bncs (input a) and hdmi (input b). Input b is definitely worse than input a. I stop testing for fear that I might get crt burn. I am wondering if something got reset that did not go back to the way it was??? PJ is perfectly fine when going through g90 menus and the like. Any one have an idea? I am wondering if it is the fH and fV which I believe are at 60 and 64 respectively.

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post #12 of 19 Old 04-16-2008, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaathiel View Post

Thanks so much Frank for the reply. Ok, here's more info. Got no error code when main switch was swithced off. As such, I don't know if the battery was too weak. The number on the bottom of the Dallas chip reads "9913H 108978." With regards to trying to reread the chip I have seriously considered this option. The one problem I have is confirming that the eprom programmer is making contact with pin 32. As I am using the same programmer and software as you did do you know how I determine if I'm making contact? I'm not sure how to use the test feature where you appear to be able to select specific pins. I have copper foil which I could use to make a make shift contact point.

On option 2 what is "S202?" Is this a series of buttons on the remote? And if I do this and it erases user data - how do I restore said data with the data saved in the service block?

Thanks again as I very much appreciate your assistance. I will be indebted if you can help me get my projector up and running again.

Your old Dallas chip was manufactured in the last week of March 1999. About 3 months later than my old Dallas chip. Your Dallas chip was most likely getting near the end of its 10-year life cycle. Your old Chip's 10-year anniversary would have been in March 2009. My Dallas battery died at around the 9-year mark from its manufactured/activation date. So for me that was 1 year less than its was supposed to last.

As it appears that you had a good battery in your Dallas chip than you should have had a good read using your eprom programmer. Perhaps try reading the old chip again and rewriting it to the new chip. Based on what you have written so far I am guessing that that broken pin may have caused the bad read of the old Dallas chip.

My Dallas chip battery was in a weaker state then yours proven by the fact that turning my G90 off and than on (about an hour or so later) again gave me the 88-88-10-11 error codes forcing me to upload the G90 firmware to get my projector going again. Even though my battery was in a weaker state I still was able to get a clean read of the old chip. Although it worked out for me with no issues, had I known earlier I would have changed my Dallas chip earlier and not have waited until the weak battery state stage.
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post #13 of 19 Old 04-16-2008, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Frank, thanks for the information. I guess it makes me feel a little better knowing that my Dallas chip was due to go soon. Now if I can just figure out what's up with the shadowing/banding. Before I started down this road I had a great picture and no problems. Fortunately, this site has kept me sane.

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post #14 of 19 Old 04-16-2008, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaathiel View Post

Well, I reset the projector with the S202 switch and then downloaded the service block memory and everything seemed to go back the way it should be. I then let the PJ warm up to test dvd, blu-ray and directv. To my dismay I am now getting intermittent dark shadows and dark lines of various widths. Banding? The higher resolution the content the bigger the problem. Problem exists on both the bncs (input a) and hdmi (input b). Input b is definitely worse than input a. I stop testing for fear that I might get crt burn. I am wondering if something got reset that did not go back to the way it was??? PJ is perfectly fine when going through g90 menus and the like. Any one have an idea? I am wondering if it is the fH and fV which I believe are at 60 and 64 respectively.

Your CLAMP settings are probably on AUTO now. Set to H/C (?) or HP and the banding will disappear.
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Originally Posted by lewis View Post

Your CLAMP settings are probably on AUTO now. Set to H/C (?) or HP and the banding will disappear.

Yes, exactly : that's a common issue (Auto Clamp setting are not good for 1080p RGB signals in Sony G70/G90 projectors). You was faster than me Lewis

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Thanks John and Lewis. In searching AVS last night I discovered this could be the source of the problem and checked it. Unfortunately, discovered that PJ's clamp is set at H/C - so presumably this is not the problem. I wrote down a number of the other settings as they appear in service mode. Do any of these appear that they could be the problem? 1) Input A: RGB. 2) Input B: RGB. 3) Pic Muting: off. 4) Sync Route: Auto. 5) Video lock: Normal. 6) Video Memory: off. 7) V. Shift: Wide. 8) Input signal: Int.OSC. 9) fH: 63.98. 10) fV 60.02. 10) Software: 1.11. 11) 5 BNC Mode: off. 12) Normal Defocus Mode: off. 13) ABG Mode: on. 14) Screen Type: B. 15) Pic Doubling: off. 16) Scan Line Shift: off. 17) PJ Com: 38.4k. 18) Input Memory: 5. 19) No Color, Hue or Sharpness set.

As expected I now have no serial number or tube hours. Also my remote now acts funny and I have to use the remote built into the PJ. (Not to concerned about this at this point.) Strongly suspecting that something else got deleted and/or reset and is causing havoc with signals from components. I hoping someone sees something obvious. Thoughts or ideas?

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post #17 of 19 Old 04-17-2008, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaathiel View Post

Thanks John and Lewis. In searching AVS last night I discovered this could be the source of the problem and checked it. Unfortunately, discovered that PJ's clamp is set at H/C - so presumably this is not the problem.

Try the other clamp settings.

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post #18 of 19 Old 04-17-2008, 04:36 PM
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Here's a tip: In order to confirm we had a good read/write from the old to the new Dallas chip we first:

1) Read the old chip and saved it to a .bin file. Then used a little program called HashOnClick to calculate the SHA-1 hash value on that file (after installing HashOnClick just right click on the .bin file).

2) Cleared the buffers from the programming software. Reloaded the .bin file. Then wrote to the new Dallas chip.

3) Cleared the buffers in the software program again and then read from the new Dallas chip and saved it to a .bin file. We then calculated the SHA-1 hash value on this new file and compared it to the old file.

If the hash files are identical then you are guaranteed to have a good read/write!
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post #19 of 19 Old 04-17-2008, 06:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I am happy to report that the PJ seems to be working again. I say "seems" because I only tested blu ray and only for about 5 minutes. At this point, I need a break from the PJ and should be able to rest a lot better knowing that blu ray seems to work fine. Thinking about what to do next most of the night gets old quick. What seemed to do the trick to clear up the shadowing was changing the clamp to hp. I really thought that I was going to have to upload firmware next. I am surprised that I didn't since Frank had to and I reset the projector with the S202 switch. Although not entirely clear it seems that some folks believe that the firmware may be on the Dallas chip. Based on my experience I don't think so. I guess at this point, my advice would be for anyone pulling/replacing a Dallas chip that they seriously consider investing in a chip puller. If not a chip puller use your hands with extreme caution as I don't know its even possible to get a good read with a broken chip pin regardless of software/testing. Thanks again to everyone - especially Terry and Frank. I may be back with more questions, but not for a few days at least. I also plan on becoming a member of this site as it is truly invaluable to home theater enthusists that still believe that CRTs are great PJs. I think I should retitle this post - I'm glad thats not my crt -as no doubt thats what a lot of CRT owners have been saying to themselves when reading this post.

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