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post #1 of 16 Old 06-18-2020, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Who make good amps these days?

Which manufactures are considered top tier with regards to sound and build quality for a 4 channel amp?

Alpine, JL, Skar, etc...
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post #2 of 16 Old 06-19-2020, 09:58 PM
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Alpine still seems good with tech. My old business partner supplies Rockford Fosgate, those guys are still maniacs about their products. Be sure to get crossovers separately adjustable for front and back. Better yet ditch the rear speakers, they are an obsolete historic artifact from days when cars were noisy and radios weak and people in back couldn't hear the front speakers. Connect a sub on those channels instead, put the money into a better amp or especially better front speakers.
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post #3 of 16 Old 06-20-2020, 06:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by head_unit View Post
Alpine still seems good with tech. My old business partner supplies Rockford Fosgate, those guys are still maniacs about their products. Be sure to get crossovers separately adjustable for front and back. Better yet ditch the rear speakers, they are an obsolete historic artifact from days when cars were noisy and radios weak and people in back couldn't hear the front speakers. Connect a sub on those channels instead, put the money into a better amp or especially better front speakers.
I’ve got Boston Acoustic Pro60 SE components in front doors and MB Quarts 6x9’s in rear deck.

Are you suggesting to replace the 6x9’s with subwoofers?
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post #4 of 16 Old 06-20-2020, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by head_unit View Post
Alpine still seems good with tech. My old business partner supplies Rockford Fosgate, those guys are still maniacs about their products. Be sure to get crossovers separately adjustable for front and back. Better yet ditch the rear speakers, they are an obsolete historic artifact from days when cars were noisy and radios weak and people in back couldn't hear the front speakers. Connect a sub on those channels instead, put the money into a better amp or especially better front speakers.
Interesting. (Sorry Boombox13, not trying to pirate your thread, maybe this will be helpful for you too?) I'm aiming to install audio in car that was never equipped. I have done audio in the same type of car previously and also had installed 6x9 in the rear deck, can't recall the brand and had 6" (ish?) something or others in the front doors (2-door car, NOBODY ever sits in the back seats). Being an old car, it is somewhat noisy.

So, you're saying just go with fronts then, huh? Keep the back for subs only?

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
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Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-20-2020, 09:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
Interesting. (Sorry Boombox13, not trying to pirate your thread, maybe this will be helpful for you too?) I'm aiming to install audio in car that was never equipped. I have done audio in the same type of car previously and also had installed 6x9 in the rear deck, can't recall the brand and had 6" (ish?) something or others in the front doors (2-door car, NOBODY ever sits in the back seats). Being an old car, it is somewhat noisy.

So, you're saying just go with fronts then, huh? Keep the back for subs only?
No worries.....it sounds like you are trying to do the same thing as me.

I don't want to install a subwoofer enclosure in my trunk, so maybe replacing the 6x9's with 2-8" or 2-10" subwoofers.

I am already using an Alpine 4 channel amp (MRX-F65).....so maybe use the rear two channels to power subwoofers in the rear deck.

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post #6 of 16 Old 06-20-2020, 12:26 PM
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No worries.....it sounds like you are trying to do the same thing as me.

I don't want to install a subwoofer enclosure in my trunk, so maybe replacing the 6x9's with 2-8" or 2-10" subwoofers.

I am already using an Alpine 4 channel amp (MRX-F65).....so maybe use the rear two channels to power subwoofers in the rear deck.

Yeah, I don't really have that as an option either, so indeed gong with some smaller subs vs. 6x9s might be in order, I probably would not have thought of that. Gotta figure out what's good for the doors. It's been a tremendously long time since I've done anything car audio. Gotta build it all from the ground up with limited space and power available without doing some serious modifications.

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-20-2020, 05:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I don't really have that as an option either, so indeed gong with some smaller subs vs. 6x9s might be in order, I probably would not have thought of that. Gotta figure out what's good for the doors. It's been a tremendously long time since I've done anything car audio. Gotta build it all from the ground up with limited space and power available without doing some serious modifications.
I started this post because, I was considering going to a 5 channel amp. So I could add a subwoofer.

The amps that often came up on my search were:
Skar
Pioneer
Alpine
JL Audio...but many say it’s overpriced and recommend Skar.
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-20-2020, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I don't really have that as an option either, so indeed gong with some smaller subs vs. 6x9s might be in order, I probably would not have thought of that. Gotta figure out what's good for the doors. It's been a tremendously long time since I've done anything car audio. Gotta build it all from the ground up with limited space and power available without doing some serious modifications.
Just some ideas for you to consider.


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post #9 of 16 Old 06-21-2020, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Boombox13 View Post
I started this post because, I was considering going to a 5 channel amp. So I could add a subwoofer.

The amps that often came up on my search were:
Skar
Pioneer
Alpine
JL Audio...but many say it’s overpriced and recommend Skar.
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Originally Posted by Boombox13 View Post
Just some ideas for you to consider.

Cool, thanks for the info, appreciated! I'll check all of these out. I have actually subscribed to a Youtube channel, Car Audio Fabrication, I think is the name, but I have not dived in yet, but I do need to start lining up ideas and formulate a plan.

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #10 of 16 Old 06-22-2020, 12:10 AM
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I’ve got Boston Acoustic Pro60 SE components in front doors and MB Quarts 6x9’s in rear deck. Are you suggesting to replace the 6x9’s with subwoofers?
Well, once upon a time my coworker at a giant audio company built some custom 5-1/4s and 6x9s, huge magnets and all the best parts, to try and get some Alfa Romeo business. Those massive pieces put out a ton of bass. But in real life,
STEP 1: push the fader all the way forward, does it sound good aside from the bass? If NO then maybe you need to keep the 6x9s, too bad. Assuming it sounds good move to
STEP 2: yeah, ditch those 6x9s and mount some 8" or better yet 10" venting through the 6x9 holes (it will work fine, you just have to be sure there is clearance so the subwoofer surround doesn't hit the rear deck when moving forward). You'll be amazed methinks. You can even use less expensive higher Q woofers perhaps, if you use the whole trunk as their enclosure. Which begs the question, what vehicle is this in?
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post #11 of 16 Old 06-22-2020, 12:14 AM
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...I'm aiming to install audio in car that was never equipped...Being an old car, it is somewhat noisy...So, you're saying just go with fronts then, huh? Keep the back for subs only?
Especially in old noisy cars, because then you REALLY need low frequency output. Earl Geddes and David Clark did some research and there's a paper, I think Society of Automotive Engineers, showing a gradual 10 dB rise towards the bass was desirable to overcome road noise. And that was in a Thunderbird or Lincoln or something-an old noisy car would be worse. Ideally you'd also have adjustable crossover to set low with high gain to get that slowly rising response as you go lower in frequency. What car is it?
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post #12 of 16 Old 06-22-2020, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by head_unit View Post
Well, once upon a time my coworker at a giant audio company built some custom 5-1/4s and 6x9s, huge magnets and all the best parts, to try and get some Alfa Romeo business. Those massive pieces put out a ton of bass. But in real life,
STEP 1: push the fader all the way forward, does it sound good aside from the bass? If NO then maybe you need to keep the 6x9s, too bad. Assuming it sounds good move to
STEP 2: yeah, ditch those 6x9s and mount some 8" or better yet 10" venting through the 6x9 holes (it will work fine, you just have to be sure there is clearance so the subwoofer surround doesn't hit the rear deck when moving forward). You'll be amazed methinks. You can even use less expensive higher Q woofers perhaps, if you use the whole trunk as their enclosure. Which begs the question, what vehicle is this in?
2000 Toyota Solara
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post #13 of 16 Old 06-22-2020, 12:06 PM
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2000 Toyota Solara
I can see online the trunk appears solid (some cars there is no metal behind the back seat). So the usual procedure would be to make a wooden adaptor, probably two pieces* of wood the same size:
- One with a 6x9 hole, and drill bolt holes to match the rear deck 6x9 holes
- The second with an 8" or 10"** subwoofer hole to mount the subwoofer to.
- Glue them together, THEN drill holes for the subwoofer bolts. Let dry. Add a cup of sugar and a tablespoon of butter, bake at 350 degrees. Just kidding!!!
(1) Drop bolts through the holes for the sub through from the top
(2) Bolt the assembly to the 6x9 holes
(3) Bolt the sub, using normal nuts to secure it in place and then nylon lock nuts after that due to vehicle vibration.
Wire them up (you need an amp with adjustable crossover if you don't have that already, and a highpass crossover for your fronts) and BLAST AWAY!!


*This could also be done with one thick piece and some routing. Part of the point is to make clearance for the sub to move forward.
**You need to see how wide the underside of the rear deck is to decide what size will fit. I would not get super heavy subwoofers, and if you carry a lot of stuff in the trunk consider slim low-profile subs.
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post #14 of 16 Old 06-23-2020, 08:07 AM
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Especially in old noisy cars, because then you REALLY need low frequency output. Earl Geddes and David Clark did some research and there's a paper, I think Society of Automotive Engineers, showing a gradual 10 dB rise towards the bass was desirable to overcome road noise. And that was in a Thunderbird or Lincoln or something-an old noisy car would be worse. Ideally you'd also have adjustable crossover to set low with high gain to get that slowly rising response as you go lower in frequency. What car is it?
Good to know. I can try to dedicate the rear deck then to smaller subwoofers. While the car does have a solid metal back behind the seat, there's actually a lot going on right behind it, like an actual full-sized spare tire, but I think I can miss it on either side like I did with the 6x9s that dropped down from the rear deck in a different one of the same car I owned some time back. I gotta do some measuring to see what's even possible to fit.

Definitely gonna do what I can to add sound deadening material to the floor, doors, and firewall.

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #15 of 16 Old 06-24-2020, 10:00 PM
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Definitely gonna do what I can to add sound deadening material to the floor, doors, and firewall.
I second that notion. Did that to a 1990-something Jeep Cherokee. Dynamat or some equivalent. Didn't do miracles but the vehicle was notably quieter.
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post #16 of 16 Old 06-25-2020, 07:44 AM
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I second that notion. Did that to a 1990-something Jeep Cherokee. Dynamat or some equivalent. Didn't do miracles but the vehicle was notably quieter.

Yes, exactly same with my neighbor and a I believe exactly a 1990 Volvo wagon, same result - but sounded to be worth the effort, no pun intended.

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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