Nikon COOLPIX P1000 4K 24-3000mm ! - Page 14 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #391 of 414 Old 06-26-2019, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I use a 3D printed part with a long plate on my lightweight carbon tripod.





With short support plate :





I shoot stills handheld up to 3000mm eqiv. without a problem like on Monday :


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post #392 of 414 Old 06-26-2019, 01:52 PM
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A custom part would be better, I am not sure if the Manfrotto device would fit the P1000.

If you had it made yourself Jogiba, I would include latches on the sides so you could look a rubber band of some sort over the front end, that would increase stability and provide some additional shock absorbance if there was any vibration in the system. A short bungy cord or something like that might do it, as long as it was tight enough.

Also, for vibration dampening you want a heavier tripod, not something lightweight.
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post #393 of 414 Old 06-28-2019, 02:36 PM
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Here are some videos showing the Manfrotto 293 support actually being used with the P1000. One thing that might be a problem is that the lens support element needs to be a bit higher, since the camera would not be level when attached to the tripod. Consequently you would have to tilt the video head up to compensate, which is unfortunate. You might be able to get around that by adding some sort of riser to the lens support though.



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post #394 of 414 Old 07-01-2019, 08:54 PM
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Lately I have had a chance to play with this camera like some of you here as a used copy came up at my dealer so I thought it was about time to jump in this crazy zoom bandwagon. After a couple weeks of using it whenever the weather or time has allowed here is my early thoughts. I will skip all the familiar stuff you guys have already excellently covered and concentrate on how to get this beast of a lens working viably in video:

- By far the hardest part is get the camera ready to shoot. Of course I totally agree with the mantra mentioned by Tugela that shooting with this type of specialized tool one needs to plan ahead so I always have. However, actual shooting in the field has still been more difficult than I thought no doubt because of the 3000mm FoV but also some other shortcomings in both the camera's weaknesses and my own operation.

The one I have has always sat on a Manfrotto 701HDV head and 547B legs, 2-section double upper tube tripod (for max rigidity and torsional resistance). The whole rig, excluding the camera, weighs about slightly less than 3kg. So I consider my rig is already at the lighter end of the scale compared to what most of you use for this camera. Up to now I believe the legs are adequate but not quite sure about the head. The QR isn't long enough to allow the camera to be mounted further back and since this model doesn't have a counterbalance mechanism, the camera sits on it with the CG forward of the mounting point, not ideal considering the zoom extension and max focal length. Any way, the whole setup has worked OK with the only real gripe for me is there is no mount available to place the wireless Nikon remote on the tripod handle. This remote is absolutely crucial for getting useable footage or stills at the right moments for all kinds of moving subjects at the 1000mm+ zoom range, even more so at the 3000mm, believe me.

So, maneuvering around the combined weight of a 4.5kg rig plus a 3-feet length of the camera on the tripod, fully retracted, to get ready to shoot in let's say less than a minute (finding the spot, levelling the head, turning on the camera and having the remote ready etc.) is certainly no mean feat in practice. The OIS-only in 4K mode is always necessary whether the camera used handheld or on a tripod. At 3000mm and with a much more robust rig than mine, the minute vibration from a light breeze or faintest movement on the ground would still be magnified in the footage without the help of the OIS. So you have to bear with it though it will make framing more difficult because of the lens drifting.

- The LCD screen is poor and unuseable for critical viewing of focus or manual focus. On the other hand the viewfinder is very good and can be relied on when manual focusing with peaking. The placement of the manual focusing ring, and the response coupled with the good VF make manual focusing the easiest among all consumer cameras and camcorders I have used so far. This is a redemption for the generally poor contrast detect AF performance especially in the high zoom range.

- The on board mic is pretty poor compared to the ones on most of my Sony cameras so if you have to get decent sound from a close to moderate distance you probably need to use an external mic. For me, since I will use this camera for mostly the zoom range my other cameras can't touch the sound recording is not relevant anyway. And DON'T forget to turn off the zoom mic in the menu no matter how you are going to use the camera. It is utterly useless.

- You may want to fiddle with the picture profile adjustments i.e. sharpness, contrast, saturation in a few different modes such as Standard, Neautral (or Natural), Vivid etc. to see how you like the footage to come out best. My preferred settings are sharpness almost all the way down next to 0, contrast a step down, and saturation at default all in the Standard profile mode. Since the footage at or near the 3000mm max has a significant drop in contrast compared to that at the more normal focal lengths such as 24mm or 100mm, I have been experimenting with setting the contrast back to default or maybe a step or two higher. Will have to try this more in different lighting conditions.

In summary, this is a good camera for what it is intended to do. A specialized gear that takes a lot of practice and patience to get the best results. My few wishes for the next iteration, maybe the P2000 or whatever, would be that it has a phase detection AF, slightly faster aperture possibly f/6.3 or so in exchange for a more conservative wide end (28mm or 35mm). This could also make the lens more compact and lighter while few of the potential buyers for this type of cameras would care about the missing wider focal lengths. Also it would help a lot if Nikon could somehow manage to have an IP and sensor on the same caliber of what are in most Sony cameras on the next version of the P1000. Because as things are now my 4 year-old Sony HX400V superzoom (50x to 1200mm) and more recently, Sony HX99 pocketable (30x to 720mm) both wipe the floor off the P1000 in terms of image quality at the more "moderate" 720-1200mm range and wider. And I am not even talking about the likes of heavier, much more expensive but limited zooming alternatives such as the Sony RX10 series yet!
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post #395 of 414 Old 07-02-2019, 09:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tugela View Post
A custom part would be better, I am not sure if the Manfrotto device would fit the P1000.

If you had it made yourself Jogiba, I would include latches on the sides so you could look a rubber band of some sort over the front end, that would increase stability and provide some additional shock absorbance if there was any vibration in the system. A short bungy cord or something like that might do it, as long as it was tight enough.

Also, for vibration dampening you want a heavier tripod, not something lightweight.
You want a light carbon fiber tripod to carry on a backpack. I am not putting a bungy cord on my P1000 lens to keep it steady. Are you for real or what ?



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post #396 of 414 Old 07-02-2019, 01:05 PM
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If you want stability at long focal lengths you need weight and dampening.
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post #397 of 414 Old 07-06-2019, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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post #398 of 414 Old 07-07-2019, 04:54 AM
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Got a question for those of you who have been using this camera longer than I have: Does the AF/AE button (near the VF) not work while the camera is in AF-F mode? In the menu I have tried setting this to both AE/AF lock and AF lock only but in both cases when I push this button the AF doesn't seem to stay locked and he camera keeps focusing if the scene changes. There is only a brief flash of "AF/AF Lock" icon on the LCD screen and VF but the focus is not locked. Am I missing something here?

On the subject of stability, I have normally stripped the camera down to the minimal when shooting outdoors where there is slight or constant light wind breezes. No external mic with a fluffy deadcat, no external monitor of any kind and even no lens hood. Believe it or not this helps reduce wind resistance and thus, small or mild shake in the footage. And since the P1000 has very good RS resistance compared to all other cameras in this category I have used, when there is still residual shake visible in the footage this can normally be stabilized quite effectively by Smoothcam stabilization in FCPX or in warp stabilizer feature in most current NLEs I assume.

I am well aware that a better combination of the tripod head+legs will certainly help but I just want to keep the whole setup as light and maneuverable as I possibly could.
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post #399 of 414 Old 07-07-2019, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P&Struefan View Post
Got a question for those of you who have been using this camera longer than I have: Does the AF/AE button (near the VF) not work while the camera is in AF-F mode? In the menu I have tried setting this to both AE/AF lock and AF lock only but in both cases when I push this button the AF doesn't seem to stay locked and he camera keeps focusing if the scene changes. There is only a brief flash of "AF/AF Lock" icon on the LCD screen and VF but the focus is not locked. Am I missing something here?
It works fine on my camera. Are you recording when pressing the lock?
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post #400 of 414 Old 07-07-2019, 07:06 AM
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It works fine on my camera. Are you recording when pressing the lock?
No, I have tried it a few times only in standby mode (viewing but not yet recording). This button is supposed to be a toggle switch that toggles between AF lock and AF release as in most other cameras. Is that how it works on yours, and in the AF-F mode, not the AF-S? Or perhaps I have forgotten to set something in the menu?
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post #401 of 414 Old 07-08-2019, 01:03 PM
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I have not tried it in standby mode. I usually let the camera find focus, then lock it so it doesn't hunt. So maybe it only works while recording?
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post #402 of 414 Old 07-08-2019, 06:41 PM
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It looks like that would be the case i.e. the AF is locked only while recording as the user manual seems to also say the same but isn't really clear. Problem is touching anything but a soft pulling of the tripod handle risks ruining the entire shot at high zoom. I have found the AF-S mode sometimes works better for me if I want to be sure of not getting hunting focus at the cost of the inability to follow focus if the subject wanders far enough from the focus plane.

Anyway at 1000mm+ and especially at 3000mm manual focusing has worked best for me on this camera.
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post #403 of 414 Old 07-09-2019, 01:07 PM
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There is another way to lock focus, you can flick the toggle switch and put it into manual focus when AF has found the focus point. That should allow you to lock on before shooting. But I agree, at longer focal lengths you are better off with manual focusing. AF is not very reliable at those lengths since the sensor is not receiving much light and optical contrast is usually poor.
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post #404 of 414 Old 07-09-2019, 07:28 PM
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Thanks for the tips. Despite its quirks I like this camera a lot, not least because there is nothing out there like it in the market. Of course you can have a good true professional rig but with a gigantic 600mm f/4 or 800mm f/5.6 telephoto lens and another extender or two plus the camera body but I've got to be wondering if "fun" shooting would ever be possible. Coming down on both the weight/size and $ scale, a Micro 4/3 solution similar to the one Flinty uses is also unwieldy, not to mention a lot more expensive.

What I like most about this Nikon P1000 lens is it has very little chromatic aberrations at all the focal lengths towards the max zoom. In fact, I have to view the footage at 400% to see that they are still present at all but maybe only a few
pixels wide at the high contrast edges. Light falloff is also negligible and this is a good thing since at 3000mm, f/8 is the only aperture. No lens on any camera I have ever used has come close to this CA and vignetting performance except for a few megabuck, mega-sized professional lenses in the ranges I mentioned.

Now if only Nikon made a video remote that could readily be attached to the tripod handle like my Sony's.
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post #405 of 414 Old 07-10-2019, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
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Thanks for the tips. Despite its quirks I like this camera a lot, not least because there is nothing out there like it in the market. Of course you can have a good true professional rig but with a gigantic 600mm f/4 or 800mm f/5.6 telephoto lens and another extender or two plus the camera body but I've got to be wondering if "fun" shooting would ever be possible. Coming down on both the weight/size and $ scale, a Micro 4/3 solution similar to the one Flinty uses is also unwieldy, not to mention a lot more expensive.

What I like most about this Nikon P1000 lens is it has very little chromatic aberrations at all the focal lengths towards the max zoom. In fact, I have to view the footage at 400% to see that they are still present at all but maybe only a few
pixels wide at the high contrast edges. Light falloff is also negligible and this is a good thing since at 3000mm, f/8 is the only aperture. No lens on any camera I have ever used has come close to this CA and vignetting performance except for a few megabuck, mega-sized professional lenses in the ranges I mentioned.

Now if only Nikon made a video remote that could readily be attached to the tripod handle like my Sony's.
You are right a micro four thirds sytem like i use is a lot more expensive than the P1000 i also have but no more unwieldy,using with my over 3kg tripod i could get reasonably steady results,the big loss with this set up is the lack of wide angles,i was hoping the preanounced Olympus zoom would help when it comes but my healths not good now so it may not matter.Best wishes to all .
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post #406 of 414 Old 07-10-2019, 04:04 AM
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You are right a micro four thirds sytem like i use is a lot more expensive than the P1000 i also have but no more unwieldy,using with my over 3kg tripod i could get reasonably steady results,the big loss with this set up is the lack of wide angles,i was hoping the preanounced Olympus zoom would help when it comes but my healths not good now so it may not matter.Best wishes to all .
Chris, sorry to hear, hope you recover fast.
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post #407 of 414 Old 07-10-2019, 07:19 AM
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Chris, sorry to hear, hope you recover fast.
Just to echo this as a fellow owner of GH5 and P1000 (and Brit). Hope you feel ok soon.
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post #408 of 414 Old 07-10-2019, 11:38 PM
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Ken and Cloudstrewn thanks so much,the weather is lovely in the south uk and i am laid up with several different some painful problems,i can only hope for things to improve,Realy appreciated.
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post #409 of 414 Old 07-11-2019, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Chris, sorry to hear, hope you recover fast.
Ditto
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post #410 of 414 Old 07-13-2019, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Shot with the internal mic. I will do another test with my Rode Stereo Video Mic.
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post #411 of 414 Old 07-13-2019, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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moon @ 3000mm in monochrome mode.



Screenshot with gamma adjustment :
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post #412 of 414 Old 09-14-2019, 02:25 PM - Thread Starter
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I took my P1000 and GH5 to the races yesterday and the P1000 worked ok on the dark cloudy day up to 1800mm eqiv. handheld for stills @ 1/60sec and 400iso.



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post #413 of 414 Old 09-15-2019, 09:20 AM - Thread Starter
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EXIF on the two still shots 1800mm 1/60, 235mm 1/20




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post #414 of 414 Old 09-15-2019, 10:37 PM
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I've found that with my P1000 even still shots at 3000mm are pretty doable in moderate light levels if I could only find some sort of object that doesn't have to be really solid to brace against such as my own thighs (on the lap) or a backpack placed on a rail or car trunk etc. Or bracing the camera on either side against a wall or pole. Shutter speeds would normally be around 1/125 or 1/500 and I wouldn't have to crank the ISO up too high. The key thing is the subject can't move too fast or there would be too much motion blue.

Shooting video is of course another matter entirely.
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