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post #2101 of 2372 Old 08-09-2018, 09:43 AM
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Thanks guys, just changed brightness on porch, going adjusting forever?
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post #2102 of 2372 Old 08-09-2018, 09:59 AM
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Add lights to an Alexa Alarm?

I know that Alexa can control Radio RA2 lighting. I'm wondering if it is possible for Alexa to add lighting control to the alarm skill that is already present within Alexa. My daughter has a difficult time waking up in the morning--an audio alarm is typcially not enough. I'm hoping that I can use Alexa to turn on her room lights in conjunction with the alarm. I also have the Homeseer HS3 controller operating at my house, with the Radio [email protected] plugin, so perhaps there is an avenue there. spiwrx and wkearney99, you are using HS3, right? Do you know if this type of control is possible?
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post #2103 of 2372 Old 08-09-2018, 10:14 AM
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Good question, I don't know. So I asked it over on the HS forums.
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post #2104 of 2372 Old 08-15-2018, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socalsharky View Post
I know that Alexa can control Radio RA2 lighting. I'm wondering if it is possible for Alexa to add lighting control to the alarm skill that is already present within Alexa. My daughter has a difficult time waking up in the morning--an audio alarm is typcially not enough. I'm hoping that I can use Alexa to turn on her room lights in conjunction with the alarm. I also have the Homeseer HS3 controller operating at my house, with the Radio [email protected] plugin, so perhaps there is an avenue there. spiwrx and wkearney99, you are using HS3, right? Do you know if this type of control is possible?

Have you seen "Routines" in the Alexa app. I think it might do it. If you give the routine a unique name, I wonder if you can tell Alexa to run that routine at 7am.
"Routines" are kind of like macros. I just started playing with them. I have 5 arcade games in my garage with Alexa controlled plugs, and I only want to turn on the ones I want to play by there name directly controlling their plug-in (non-RR2) Alexa controlled outlets. But when I shut them down I run "arcade" routine that shuts all of them off. Not matter if they are already off. I will ask Alexa tonight to run it at a certain time to verify. I found this article that briefly explains "Routines" I'm not endorsing the site or it's accuracy, just the first thing I googled:
https://www.digitaltrends.com/home/w...lexa-routines/



If this is a consistent daily routine, you could just do a schedule in RR2. I haven't tried timing events in HS, but I think it would be similar to schedules in RR2.

I'm assuming you are using Alexa as the alarm clock.

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post #2105 of 2372 Old 08-15-2018, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
I will ask Alexa tonight to run it at a certain time to verify. I found this article that briefly explains "Routines" I'm not endorsing the site or it's accuracy, just the first thing I googled:
https://www.digitaltrends.com/home/w...lexa-routines/
Thanks Paul. Please let me know if this works.
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post #2106 of 2372 Old 09-01-2018, 05:47 PM
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Lutron Occupancy/Vacancy Sensors

I just installed Lutron Radio RA2 occupancy/vacancy sensors in a couple of bedrooms. However, I can't figure out how to program them in the Essentials software. Can anybody point me to a quick guide or tutorial?


Thanks!
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post #2107 of 2372 Old 09-01-2018, 08:09 PM
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I have Inclusive, but I think it's the same.

On the Program tab, in the top left corner is a pop-up control labeled "Program". It defaults to "Keypads". Change that to "Occupancy". Then you program each motion sensor like it was a button on a keypad.
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post #2108 of 2372 Old 09-01-2018, 09:51 PM
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I have Inclusive, but I think it's the same.

On the Program tab, in the top left corner is a pop-up control labeled "Program". It defaults to "Keypads". Change that to "Occupancy". Then you program each motion sensor like it was a button on a keypad.

Here is what I see in the software:


So do it set the fade time as the delay between the point at which motion is not detected until the lights go off?
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post #2109 of 2372 Old 09-02-2018, 05:06 AM
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No. That’s determined by the sensors themselves. Check the back of them.
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post #2110 of 2372 Old 09-02-2018, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by socalsharky View Post
So do it set the fade time as the delay between the point at which motion is not detected until the lights go off?
Fade time is how long it takes the lights to ramp up to the programmed level.

As already posted, when the sensor times out it sends the "off" command which turns the programed loads off.
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post #2111 of 2372 Old 09-02-2018, 11:16 AM
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No. That’s determined by the sensors themselves. Check the back of them.

OK. So the only way to set the delay time is on the sensor itself? I saw the directions for doing so in the install manual, but I figured it could also be done (to a more precise degree) in the software.
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post #2112 of 2372 Old 09-02-2018, 12:51 PM
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You have 3 main options on the sensors as I recall, and they just send effectively a keypad press to the system when it's unoccupied. It should work just fine and the logic seems to work pretty well, but to each their own.
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post #2113 of 2372 Old 09-03-2018, 10:29 AM
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Lutron Occupancy/Vacancy Sensors

Thanks for all the responses. I've got all my occupancy/vacancy sensors working pretty well, but there is one function that I don't understand:


I have disabled the auto-on function on the sensors, since I want them to function only as vacancy sensors, and turn of the lights after the programmed delay has elapsed. However, after the sensor detects the vacancy and turns off the lights, when I re-enter the room, the lights go back on. When I turn off the lights using the switch, they do not turn back on upon re-entering the room. Is this the correct functionality? I don't see a description of this behavior in the manual. I do not want the sensors to turn on the lights at all.


Also, in a Rdio RA2 configuration, does the auto-on setting on the sensor do anything? Or is the occupancy behavior controlled entirely through the software?



Thanks.

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post #2114 of 2372 Old 09-04-2018, 03:08 AM
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That’s a good question I don’t know the answer to, but the software allows you to set it as an occupancy or vacancy only sensor. I would think that the behavile you stated shouldn’t happen if set in software as vacancy only.
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post #2115 of 2372 Old 09-19-2018, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socalsharky View Post
Thanks for all the responses. I've got all my occupancy/vacancy sensors working pretty well, but there is one function that I don't understand:

I have disabled the auto-on function on the sensors, since I want them to function only as vacancy sensors, and turn of the lights after the programmed delay has elapsed. However, after the sensor detects the vacancy and turns off the lights, when I re-enter the room, the lights go back on. When I turn off the lights using the switch, they do not turn back on upon re-entering the room. Is this the correct functionality? I don't see a description of this behavior in the manual. I do not want the sensors to turn on the lights at all.

Also, in a Rdio RA2 configuration, does the auto-on setting on the sensor do anything? Or is the occupancy behavior controlled entirely through the software?

Thanks.



Sorry, I've been slammed lately and not been monitoring this thread.



Even in the Vacancy mode, if you re-enter the detection zone quickly after time-out, there is a secondary delay to prevent false positive. I think it's maybe 15 or 30 seconds, in that short time(seconds) it works as occupancy (full-auto). But if you leave the room for a good minute or 2 it should work as expected. I have this in a guest bath with a shower that rarely gets used, but works perfect. If taking a long shower the lights will shut off and you may have to open the shower door, but a wave of the hand quickly will get your lights back.



If you are using their sensors in a "system" like Radio Ra 2 all the programming is via the software. I'm not really clear on what you are describing as "does the auto-on setting on the sensor do anything"?
The behavior or mode of the sensor is either Occupancy or Vacancy and set up in the software.

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post #2116 of 2372 Old 09-19-2018, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
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Sorry, I've been slammed lately and not been monitoring this thread.



Even in the Vacancy mode, if you re-enter the detection zone quickly after time-out, there is a secondary delay to prevent false positive. I think it's maybe 15 or 30 seconds, in that short time(seconds) it works as occupancy (full-auto). But if you leave the room for a good minute or 2 it should work as expected. I have this in a guest bath with a shower that rarely gets used, but works perfect. If taking a long shower the lights will shut off and you may have to open the shower door, but a wave of the hand quickly will get your lights back.



If you are using their sensors in a "system" like Radio Ra 2 all the programming is via the software. I'm not really clear on what you are describing as "does the auto-on setting on the sensor do anything"?
The behavior or mode of the sensor is either Occupancy or Vacancy and set up in the software.

Thanks Paul. I was referring to the settings on the sensor itself. You can specify the behavior of the sensor upon initial entry. I'm wondering if this has any effect when it is part of an RA2 system.


https://i.imgur.com/V3m0xP3.jpg
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post #2117 of 2372 Old 09-19-2018, 01:35 PM
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Those settings still hold as part of a RR2 system, and that’s the only way to set the timeouts, sensitivity, etc. RR2 sees the motion sensors as basically just dumb picos that send “occupied” and “vacant” messages. RR2 programming can determine how the system responds to those messages, but that’s it. The motion sensors are only a 1 way device. You can’t program or adjust the sensors from the RR2 software.


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post #2118 of 2372 Old 10-10-2018, 12:50 PM
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Hi am. I'm planning to wire my range hood's lights into my lutron system (RA2 Select) and was wondering if there is a wireless relay module that can communicate with my controller that is also able to take the inputs from an external local control switch. This switch should be able to turn the lights on if I press it and still provide status back to my lutron controller so that other automation work properly. Does anyone know of a relay module that will work?
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post #2119 of 2372 Old 10-10-2018, 03:00 PM
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Hi am. I'm planning to wire my range hood's lights into my lutron system (RA2 Select) and was wondering if there is a wireless relay module that can communicate with my controller that is also able to take the inputs from an external local control switch. This switch should be able to turn the lights on if I press it and still provide status back to my lutron controller so that other automation work properly. Does anyone know of a relay module that will work?
Well, you could use a VCRX module and a powpack, but it'd be rather expensive overkill.
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post #2120 of 2372 Old 10-10-2018, 03:53 PM
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Hi am. I'm planning to wire my range hood's lights into my lutron system (RA2 Select) and was wondering if there is a wireless relay module that can communicate with my controller that is also able to take the inputs from an external local control switch. This switch should be able to turn the lights on if I press it and still provide status back to my lutron controller so that other automation work properly. Does anyone know of a relay module that will work?
Quote:
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Well, you could use a VCRX module and a powpack, but it'd be rather expensive overkill.

Doesn't Radio RA2 Inclusive have some modules that could accomplish this?
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post #2121 of 2372 Old 10-10-2018, 04:10 PM
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I have 3 whole house fans that I would like to automate. I will eventually be using a thermostat and HomeSeer3 to turn the fans off and on as needed.

The fans are currently controlled with a single-gang triple switch (for on-off control of each individual fan) wired in series with a Lutron push button timer switch. The timer switch has buttons for 2,4,8,12 hours.


I would like to use either Zwave or RadioRA2 to control the fans. So far I can't find anything smart like the single gang triple switch that I am using now. I thought of just using smart plugs up in the attic, but I still want local control for my wife and kids. I would also rather not use a 4-gang box for all of the switches that would be required if I go with full size devices. I guess the easy way to do it would be to replace the timer switch with a Radio RA2 switch. I am new to HomeSeer, but I assume that there is a way to use single or multiple button presses to mimic the current functionality of the timer switch. I would lose the ability to see the time remaining on the countdown timer, which is displayed with LEDs on the current switch.


Has anyone done this? Which would be the correct RA2 switch (3 fans, single speed)?

As a side note, it sure would be nice if Lutron made a timer switch for the RA2 system.

I am still trying to come up with a way to handle this situation. Would it be possible to install (3) 8ANS switches up in the attic (one for each fan) and then use a 4 button pico mounted on the wall in the house to control them? I would use one pico button for each switch, and the 4th button as an "all off" scene. Also thinking I could use the roll back feature of RA2 to invoke some timing. would that still work even though the fans are being turned on indirectly by the pico buttons?
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post #2122 of 2372 Old 10-10-2018, 04:10 PM
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Doesn't Radio RA2 Inclusive have some modules that could accomplish this?
Not that I recall. The VCRX is the only one that has IO channels.
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post #2123 of 2372 Old 10-10-2018, 10:01 PM
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Not that I recall. The VCRX is the only one that has IO channels.

What about the
LMJ-16R-DV-B

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...ary/041424.pdf
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post #2124 of 2372 Old 10-11-2018, 04:49 AM
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I am still trying to come up with a way to handle this situation. Would it be possible to install (3) 8ANS switches up in the attic (one for each fan) and then use a 4 button pico mounted on the wall in the house to control them? I would use one pico button for each switch, and the 4th button as an "all off" scene. Also thinking I could use the roll back feature of RA2 to invoke some timing. would that still work even though the fans are being turned on indirectly by the pico buttons?
If your fans are hard-wired, yes, that'd work. If they're plug-in then the Lutron in-line appliance module would be something to consider. Bear in mind attics aren't the friendliest places to put electronic devices, so perhaps on a wall somewhere in regular conditioned space would be better. But I've had a motion sensor in the attic (nearly at the top of the ridge) and it's been fine. Likewise an accessory switch tied to an 8ANS downstairs (for attic lighting, not a fan).

As for the Pico, with using Homeseer or something like it you'd certainly be able to monitor button presses on Pico remotes. Use them as desired. Understanding that HS monitoring/control is separate from anything programmed into the Ra2 repeater. I use HS3 to augment the programming in my Ra2 setup.
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post #2125 of 2372 Old 10-11-2018, 05:08 AM
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What about the
LMJ-16R-DV-B
That one is just a device control. I use one in an attic plugged into a ceiling box to control the light on a ceiling fan (as wall space didn't allow for placing a dimmer). It clicks on/off, which may be an undesirable side-effect for some installs.

That PDF does not correlate to that part.

The LMJ-CCO-24-B contact closure module shows up in the Inclusive level (2nd tier) of Ra2 programming options. I've not used one, nor do I know if it's supported in Ra2 Select (I doubt it). Bearing in mind, it's a 24v switching device, not line AC voltage.

Yes, it would be darned handy if Lutron supported a few more of their modules in Ra2. They don't and history shows not much traction on changing their perspective on this.
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post #2126 of 2372 Old 10-11-2018, 05:31 AM
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Thanks everyone for the help. Looks like I'll have to start making a bastardized system. I'll probably end up buying this z-wave switch that I know will accomplish my goal and link it with RA2 Select through Smart Things. This probably open up a lot of other things for me to integrate like door and window sensors.
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post #2127 of 2372 Old 10-11-2018, 06:00 AM
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Automation can benefit from multiple vendors. Not everything has to come from one source. It makes things more convenient, of course, but there's benefit in some diversity of device manufacturers competing with each other. I'm less than enthused with Smart Things as their cloud interface has been inconsistent in performance. I have it and really don't use it. Homeseer runs entirely local and works pretty well. There are others and I've tried/owned most of them. But for home automation I want reliable, so the wife/kids don't complain. HS3 has been doing that without fail.
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post #2128 of 2372 Old 10-17-2018, 12:41 PM
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Thanks everyone for the help. Looks like I'll have to start making a bastardized system. I'll probably end up buying this z-wave switch that I know will accomplish my goal and link it with RA2 Select through Smart Things. This probably open up a lot of other things for me to integrate like door and window sensors.
Not sure how you would isolate your existing hoods controls, maybe just a diode, transistor or relay depending on the signal type it uses, then you could wire it into a VCRX for at least 2 inputs. But if you operate it solely from the RR2 system, I would just disregard the Local controls and intercept with Switch or Dimmer, ad relays if necessary and/or use the VCRX. You could place a local Pico or operate from local keypad.

VCRX is close in price to 2 RR2 Switches/dimmers, so considering it has 4 outputs, it can be a bargain if you need 3-4 outputs. Only real downside is some extra wiring and only switching, no dimming from VCRX.

The unit you linked to has whopping 3.5 stars and pictures from users of one that burned up. Also more questions than reviews. I would be careful. It's rated 10 amps, but not a horsepower (motor/inductive rating). Says resistive (lighting / heating) only, you would still have to use a motor rated relay or contactor to do it right.

I can help you figure it out if you like, please contact me directly with the spec's of your hood and any schematics you may have.

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post #2129 of 2372 Old 10-17-2018, 03:24 PM
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I have a range hood over my 48" range and it unfortunately has integrated controls. I tried using an 8ANS with it and had terrible flicker. I did, however, have them hard-wire the setup so the fan can at least be controlled separately. The fan is on the outside of the house, not integrated into the hood. Now I just leave the controls on the hood set to on and use a pair of old-school wall switches. One powers everything, the other interrupts the hot line to the fan.

I wanted to get around to investigating it again, but came to realize it's not that big a deal to just leave it alone with regular switches.
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post #2130 of 2372 Old 10-24-2018, 07:25 AM
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Not sure how you would isolate your existing hoods controls, maybe just a diode, transistor or relay depending on the signal type it uses, then you could wire it into a VCRX for at least 2 inputs. But if you operate it solely from the RR2 system, I would just disregard the Local controls and intercept with Switch or Dimmer, ad relays if necessary and/or use the VCRX. You could place a local Pico or operate from local keypad.

VCRX is close in price to 2 RR2 Switches/dimmers, so considering it has 4 outputs, it can be a bargain if you need 3-4 outputs. Only real downside is some extra wiring and only switching, no dimming from VCRX.

The unit you linked to has whopping 3.5 stars and pictures from users of one that burned up. Also more questions than reviews. I would be careful. It's rated 10 amps, but not a horsepower (motor/inductive rating). Says resistive (lighting / heating) only, you would still have to use a motor rated relay or contactor to do it right.

I can help you figure it out if you like, please contact me directly with the spec's of your hood and any schematics you may have.
Thanks. How much this will be DIY if I get Level 1 certified? Trying to DIY the system.

Yeah I saw the reviews on that Aeotec relay. I just posted it as an example. Would have rather found something more reliable.

Attached is the best schematic I could get from the manufacturer (ZLine). Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.

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