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post #2131 of 2336 Old 10-24-2018, 08:07 PM
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Wow. My wife would think I was out of my mind if I tried to control the hood lights - never even thought of that. I'd worry about mucking up the hood controls / fan, microprocessor, etc. Internal fan system was not cheap (we also have a remote fan mounted on roof of house for our range hood). Crazy ***** here!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
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post #2132 of 2336 Old 10-29-2018, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by thebland View Post
Wow. My wife would think I was out of my mind if I tried to control the hood lights - never even thought of that. I'd worry about mucking up the hood controls / fan, microprocessor, etc. Internal fan system was not cheap (we also have a remote fan mounted on roof of house for our range hood). Crazy ***** here!
Yea I'm a little crazy. I was thinking of buynig a replacement control board and button box to test wiring schemes with before installing it in the actual hood.
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post #2133 of 2336 Old 10-29-2018, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by thebland View Post
Wow. My wife would think I was out of my mind if I tried to control the hood lights - never even thought of that. I'd worry about mucking up the hood controls / fan, microprocessor, etc. Internal fan system was not cheap (we also have a remote fan mounted on roof of house for our range hood). Crazy ***** here!
My wife would be fine with controlling the lights... it's the ripping the hood apart and having panels hanging out that would get me the stink eye.

I tried using an 8ANS Ra2 switch but the fan wouldn't reliably start. No doubt an issue with in-rush current or something. Thus it's controlled old-school with just switches.
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post #2134 of 2336 Old 10-29-2018, 04:38 PM
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My wife would be fine with controlling the lights... it's the ripping the hood apart and having panels hanging out that would get me the stink eye.

I tried using an 8ANS Ra2 switch but the fan wouldn't reliably start. No doubt an issue with in-rush current or something. Thus it's controlled old-school with just switches.
So, you mean controlling the integrated hood lights and fan? They are dimmable and can be put on a timer (fan) at the head unit. Do not have that spec'd in my Lutron equipment list! but if you have the fan on, you're likely near the stove and easy enough to switch on / off.

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Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.

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post #2135 of 2336 Old 10-29-2018, 05:02 PM
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Is that a pipe for a pot filler? We have one. Make SURE to check the connections now and then. To my surprise the Hansgrohe one we have was loose and managed to separate when I swung it out. I managed to shut the water off quickly, so maybe only a quart of so of water spouted out of it. Surprised the hell out of me.

I have 2-gang box right next to the range top. One controls power to the whole hood. The other interrupts power to the fan motor (that's mounted outside). We don't use the on-hood controls at all. The electrician made a face when I made the demand for wiring it this way... but it turned out I was right. I had him run two 12/3 romex lines down from a junction box behind the hood, along with power going through the wall box FIRST (not direct to the hood). This way I'm set for whatever sort of wiring re-arrangement I might want later. Turns out we're fine with using regular wall paddle switches for it, and not the controls on the hood.
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post #2136 of 2336 Old 10-31-2018, 11:18 AM
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Question for any of you guys that have incorporated your RA2 setup into Homeseer. I have also posted this on the HS forum, but no responses so far.


I have a hybrid keypad, and I want to use one of the buttons to control my pool lights (which are also integrated into HS3 using Autelis). When I programmed the hybrid in the Essentials software, I named the button as "Pool Lights" but did not assign any dimmers or switches to it. The other buttons were assigned to various dimmers. When I added this hybrid to HS3, the button for the Pool Lights looks different than all of the other buttons on this hybrid. The status icon listed as "Press" and there an "LED On" button shown for that particular button. "Pressing" the button for the Pool Lights in HS3 does not do anything. Do you have to have some device tied to the button in order for it to work in HS3? Is there a workaround? I guess I could create a Phantom device in Essentials and tell the button to control that switch, but that would use up one of my 100 allowable devices.
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post #2137 of 2336 Old 10-31-2018, 11:41 AM
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What load is controlling the pool lights? The dimmer in the hybrid? Or another dimmer?

Tangentially, I have a hybrid with a load on it that's not controlled on the keypad itself. Just some other buttons elsewhere and some programming. So the system is pretty versatile. Though I don't know that I have HS3 interacting with it.

As for Essentials/Inclusive (when you have 2 main repeaters) you typically have a scene attached to a button. Are you trying to use the buttons as just pure buttons, with nothing happening inside the Ra2 environment? If so you'd be looking to add an event triggered by the button being pressed. Remember, buttons are not just limited to single devices. That and scenes can be "set things to a particular state" or "room monitoring". Like a "Dinner" scene that sets things on to particular levels... but also sets any number of others to OFF. Dinner lights low... kitchen lights OFF (but with a delay both in ramp speed and time to start the transition). The upside to scenes in Ra2 is you can controls several lights simultaneously and avoid the 'popcorn effect'. Most automation systems send command sequentially, leading to one, light, after, another, being, changed. With a Ra2 scene you can dim/raise several all at once.

Also consider that LEDs on buttons can track status and are themselves usable as a trigger. That is, if you have a scene that tracks that state of multiple devices you could have HS3 likewise tracking the status of the LED. As in, if the Ra2 system scene for a button (tied to a scene) is in the 'lit' state then HS3 could "do something". Most typically the LEDs for scenes like this in Ra2 are used to track the state of multiple zones. Allowing for a quick glance to see if any of the lights are still illuminated or not. Handy for a button that controls, say, a Rec Room with a half-dozen circuits (ceiling cans, table lamps, wall sconces, pool table, etc).

As for your HS3 question, yeah, the forums there are deafening silent when it comes to Ra2 inquiries.

So would you mind clarifying exactly what it is you want to accomplish?
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post #2138 of 2336 Old 10-31-2018, 12:49 PM
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What load is controlling the pool lights? The dimmer in the hybrid? Or another dimmer?

Tangentially, I have a hybrid with a load on it that's not controlled on the keypad itself. Just some other buttons elsewhere and some programming. So the system is pretty versatile. Though I don't know that I have HS3 interacting with it.

As for Essentials/Inclusive (when you have 2 main repeaters) you typically have a scene attached to a button. Are you trying to use the buttons as just pure buttons, with nothing happening inside the Ra2 environment? If so you'd be looking to add an event triggered by the button being pressed. Remember, buttons are not just limited to single devices. That and scenes can be "set things to a particular state" or "room monitoring". Like a "Dinner" scene that sets things on to particular levels... but also sets any number of others to OFF. Dinner lights low... kitchen lights OFF (but with a delay both in ramp speed and time to start the transition). The upside to scenes in Ra2 is you can controls several lights simultaneously and avoid the 'popcorn effect'. Most automation systems send command sequentially, leading to one, light, after, another, being, changed. With a Ra2 scene you can dim/raise several all at once.

Also consider that LEDs on buttons can track status and are themselves usable as a trigger. That is, if you have a scene that tracks that state of multiple devices you could have HS3 likewise tracking the status of the LED. As in, if the Ra2 system scene for a button (tied to a scene) is in the 'lit' state then HS3 could "do something". Most typically the LEDs for scenes like this in Ra2 are used to track the state of multiple zones. Allowing for a quick glance to see if any of the lights are still illuminated or not. Handy for a button that controls, say, a Rec Room with a half-dozen circuits (ceiling cans, table lamps, wall sconces, pool table, etc).

As for your HS3 question, yeah, the forums there are deafening silent when it comes to Ra2 inquiries.

So would you mind clarifying exactly what it is you want to accomplish?

Wayne, thanks for the detailed response. I was pretty much aware of all of the functionality you discuss in the 2nd and 3rd paragraphs above.


In a nutshell, I want to use a button on the RA2 hybrid dimmer to interact only with HS3, and do nothing within the RA2 environment. As I mentioned, I have not assigned any action of the "Pool Lights" button in the Essentials software. The Pool lights are wired through my Pentair panel, which in turn is linked to HS3 by an Autelis module. I can control the pool lights manually from HS3, now I just want a button on the hybrid dimmer to control them. I think the problem may be that I do not have any dimmers assigned to the "Pool Lights" button within RA2 programming. All of the other buttons on that hybrid are assigned as toggles or scenes to various dimmers, and they appear "normally" in the HS3 software. You can see all of this in the attached photo above.
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post #2139 of 2336 Old 10-31-2018, 01:47 PM
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It's Bill, not Wayne, but that's ok. W being for William. But as the saying goes "call me anything... just don't call me late for dinner!"

OK, yes, you want to trap a button press. I'll dig into my HS3 events and post back once I have a chance to poke around. Got a bunch happening, it'll be a day or two.

I don't think you should have to 'waste' a phantom button. Note, your main repeater itself has some phantom buttons as part of it (if I recall correctly). So you've got some "in there" already.
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post #2140 of 2336 Old 10-31-2018, 02:59 PM
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It's Bill, not Wayne, but that's ok. W being for William. But as the saying goes "call me anything... just don't call me late for dinner!"

OK, yes, you want to trap a button press. I'll dig into my HS3 events and post back once I have a chance to poke around. Got a bunch happening, it'll be a day or two.

I don't think you should have to 'waste' a phantom button. Note, your main repeater itself has some phantom buttons as part of it (if I recall correctly). So you've got some "in there" already.

Sorry Bill-not sure where I got Wayne. I've seen you post on several boards and I should have known. Any help you can provide would be great. Also hoping Paul (@spiwrx;)will weigh in.
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post #2141 of 2336 Old 11-01-2018, 10:14 AM
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Ok, I just posted a reply to your thread over on the HS3 forum for the Ra2 plug-in.

https://forums.homeseer.com/forum/li...61#post1256561

I've confirmed that a hybrid button programmed with no devices does not send information that the HS3 plug-in would need to track the LED state change. The keypad does toggle the LED, and inquiries to it directly do return the current state. But no LED change command gets sent.

I also posted a question on the Lutron forum about it:

https://forums.lutron.com/showthread...ll=1#post25989
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post #2142 of 2336 Old 11-06-2018, 06:34 AM
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Sorry Bill-not sure where I got Wayne. I've seen you post on several boards and I should have known. Any help you can provide would be great. Also hoping Paul (spiwrx)will weigh in.
Sorry guys, up to my armpits here working on new business accounting software, btw any recommendations?

Bill probably has a lot more experience then me on the HS. I have it in my home, but mainly for some basics and proof of concept. (And something else to do with a raspberry pi)


In terms of the Keypad, it's closed loop from my understanding at least in the way the LED responds the state of the Scene. So it should send the scene command but unless any/all of the devices report back that they reached their scene level(s) the LED will not indicate correctly. I use a simple RR2 dimmer for my pool lights and used VCRX as a pool/spa control panel. But it sounds like you already have another type of controller. Perhaps if you have a VCRX, maybe for your garage (or hood ?) you likely have an unused output, program the Keypad button to one of the outputs, even though it won't be doing anything. The system doesn't know whats wired to the VCRX and there are no load requirements. You may need to program it to "Maintained" output.

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post #2143 of 2336 Old 11-06-2018, 06:57 AM
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I'm digging into how the keypad buttons work with various scene styles attached to them. Not all of them are handled the same. I'll try to summarize once I figure it out some more.

As for business accounting software, waaaaaay back when I used to prefer Great Plains Software, but I have no idea how it is these days. They were bought by Microsoft a while back, and I think it's called "Dynamics" now. No idea how it compares these days.
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post #2144 of 2336 Old 11-06-2018, 05:04 PM
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I'm digging into how the keypad buttons work with various scene styles attached to them. Not all of them are handled the same. I'll try to summarize once I figure it out some more.
The LED status based on button logic is best explained in the button description on the programming page(e.g. "Scene", "Path", etc..). But keep in mind not all the options in "inclusive" are available in "essentials".

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As for business accounting software, waaaaaay back when I used to prefer Great Plains Software, but I have no idea how it is these days. They were bought by Microsoft a while back, and I think it's called "Dynamics" now. No idea how it compares these days.
The software we have now is very "Dynamics" like, and like me it's just getting old, slow and as a lot of you have seen I can't even attach a document to it's emails. It can barely email. Was looking for something scaled down, as we don't need the entire manufacturing side of it we don't use. But between quick books and a full ERP there is a big void in the market and pricing.

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post #2145 of 2336 Old 11-06-2018, 06:14 PM
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The software we have now is very "Dynamics" like, and like me it's just getting old, slow and as a lot of you have seen I can't even attach a document to it's emails. It can barely email. Was looking for something scaled down, as we don't need the entire manufacturing side of it we don't use. But between quick books and a full ERP there is a big void in the market and pricing.
I use Xero online accounting for my small business and use Cloze for CRM. Zoho is another online software that seems to be popular with smaller businesses and has several modules to choose from. But there are so many software packages out there but they are primarily online.
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post #2146 of 2336 Old 12-01-2018, 09:07 PM
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Can't get Pico's to Program

Hiya,

Installing a RadioRa2 system myself (did the online training), installing RadioRa2, Ra2 Select. I want to use a pico remote and can't, for the life of me, get them to pair. I'm following the instructions in the RadioRa2 setup guide: Press the top and bottom button on the pico for 3 seconds. Then press the light you want to control for 3 seconds. Then press the pico's top and bottom button for 3 seconds to end programming. The light should then dim and turn on to indicate that the pairing worked.

When I hold the top and bottom buttons on the Pico, the Pico's led will blink but it won't pair. These pico's were used with some Caseta switches but I did the factory reset on the pico.

Any suggestions?
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post #2147 of 2336 Old 12-01-2018, 11:27 PM
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Hiya,

Installing a RadioRa2 system myself (did the online training), installing RadioRa2, Ra2 Select. I want to use a pico remote and can't, for the life of me, get them to pair. I'm following the instructions in the RadioRa2 setup guide: Press the top and bottom button on the pico for 3 seconds. Then press the light you want to control for 3 seconds. Then press the pico's top and bottom button for 3 seconds to end programming. The light should then dim and turn on to indicate that the pairing worked.

When I hold the top and bottom buttons on the Pico, the Pico's led will blink but it won't pair. These pico's were used with some Caseta switches but I did the factory reset on the pico.

Any suggestions?

You need to pair the pico to the switch/dimmer using the Essentials software. The method you are using is for switches that are not part of RA2. Go to the "program" tab, and select keypads from the dropdown menu on the left. It's pretty self explanatory once you find it.
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post #2148 of 2336 Old 12-02-2018, 05:05 AM
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I am in the midst of backyard project, pool covered patio and outdoor kitchen. The Patio/Kitchen are detached from the house and approximately 75’ from my RA2 repeater. The Patio/Kitchen will have 8 can lights, two fans, task lighting cans for kitchen. I am interested in having my builder use RA2 dimmers/speed controls in this outdoor area. They will be covered from direct rain and sun but will be exposed to the overall outdoor environment of S.E. Texas

a) any qualms on this plan using RA2 in this capacity, and any special measures or other products I should consider?

b) do you think I need another repeater outside in the patio/kitchen to get good range or will the outdoor switches “see” the indoor repeater 75’ away through an exterior wall and some windows?

Welcome some input.




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post #2149 of 2336 Old 12-02-2018, 12:36 PM
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You need to pair the pico to the switch/dimmer using the Essentials software. The method you are using is for switches that are not part of RA2. Go to the "program" tab, and select keypads from the dropdown menu on the left. It's pretty self explanatory once you find it.
Awesome -- this helped. I was also confused how to activate it but then went through the activation and saw that you can hold down the pico's button to activate it. Thanks!
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post #2150 of 2336 Old 12-02-2018, 09:43 PM
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I am in the midst of backyard project, pool covered patio and outdoor kitchen. The Patio/Kitchen are detached from the house and approximately 75’ from my RA2 repeater. The Patio/Kitchen will have 8 can lights, two fans, task lighting cans for kitchen. I am interested in having my builder use RA2 dimmers/speed controls in this outdoor area. They will be covered from direct rain and sun but will be exposed to the overall outdoor environment of S.E. Texas

a) any qualms on this plan using RA2 in this capacity, and any special measures or other products I should consider?

b) do you think I need another repeater outside in the patio/kitchen to get good range or will the outdoor switches “see” the indoor repeater 75’ away through an exterior wall and some windows?

Welcome some input.




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I'm not sure if Lutron recommends it, but if it is protected from rain and sun, I don't see a problem. I currently have a RA2 dimmer installed inside the base of my concrete block BBQ. It is about 50-60 feet from my repeater, through several interior walls, an exterior wall, and the concrete block wall of the BBQ. Initially, I had to activate the dimmer inside the house. The dimmer was too far away from the main repeater for activation. My Lutron sales rep informed that this might happen, since the signal strength required during activation is higher than during normal operation. To achieve this, I made a pigtail that I could attach to the dimmer and plug it into a wall outlet inside the house. Once I got it activated, it mostly worked, but occasionally would not. I then added the small wireless aux repeater, and that solved the problems. It's been flawless since.
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post #2151 of 2336 Old 12-04-2018, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by gdfein View Post
I am in the midst of backyard project, pool covered patio and outdoor kitchen. The Patio/Kitchen are detached from the house and approximately 75’ from my RA2 repeater. The Patio/Kitchen will have 8 can lights, two fans, task lighting cans for kitchen. I am interested in having my builder use RA2 dimmers/speed controls in this outdoor area. They will be covered from direct rain and sun but will be exposed to the overall outdoor environment of S.E. Texas

a) any qualms on this plan using RA2 in this capacity, and any special measures or other products I should consider?

b) do you think I need another repeater outside in the patio/kitchen to get good range or will the outdoor switches “see” the indoor repeater 75’ away through an exterior wall and some windows?

Welcome some input.




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I have 2 devices outside in typical exterior "flip" covers. I'm not at 75' but the weather hasn't been a problem so far. I'm closer to 30ft but in a steel box & cover, through stucco, and 2 other interior wall + door to my equipment closet. In free space the signal can go quite a bit further, and as someone else has mentioned the range is at it's worst during activation. Activate by serial code or temporarily move you main repeater with extension cords if necessary. You might also run into some intermittent communication, but if you can deal with that or add the Aux. repeater.

For consistent performance I would add an Aux. repeater. If it's clear space 75ft may no be a problem.

FYI, I don't think you are far enough to require it but for extra distance the system can be extended over Ethernet (requires 2nd main repeater & Inclusive Software)
Or you can use the MUX link wired between the Primary Main and standard Aux Repeater. (4conductor low voltage 18awg, not CAT5 or 6)

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post #2152 of 2336 Old 12-19-2018, 07:53 AM
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Forgive me if this was covered already, forum search and Google search didn't get to an answer quickly.

Just getting started with the Essentials software to get a BOM and cost estimate on our new home build to see if it is an option.

I don't see the RRD-6ND as an option under any load type. Quick search seems to indicate its a Select product line option but should work fine with RadioRa2. I wanted to get confirmation of this as many LED lighting loads are well under the wattage limit and its a decent cost savings over the 10ND. Of course I would probably order one switch and a few LED bulbs to verify for myself that I like the dimming vs say 10ND, 6CL, 6NA.

Can it be directly substituted for the 10ND so long as load limits are followed? Meaning, will the Essentials software recognize and program it correctly? Or have I overlooked something obvious?
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post #2153 of 2336 Old 12-19-2018, 08:17 AM
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Have you determined your lighting elements yet? Use the Lutron website or call them directly to determine which dimmer would be best suited for your lighting needs.

This will answer the 'can it be substituted' question. Because with LEDs... "it depends".

And bravo for taking the time to use Essentials to model the installation. Once you have a project file created you could potentially share that with whatever supplier you use to purchase the devices. >hint, hint, he participates in this thread<

How many places are you putting keypads? Programming those is something I find is an on-going affair. It took about 2 solid years before we really nailed down how to best set up scenes on them. At this point, with voice control via Alexa, we need the keypads less but there's still a few locations that see regular use. Stairway up/down, mainly, along with entry/egress doors. For the kitchen, dining room and other casual places we use voice more often than keypads.

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post #2154 of 2336 Old 12-19-2018, 10:26 AM
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Thanks for the response.

Understood that LED compatibility can be somewhat complicated. I've spent some time on Lutron's LED compatibility and section tools. Looks like there are a variety of commonly sized bulbs out there that measure OK with the 6CL, 6NA, 6ND and 10ND dimmers. So it seems it could be as much a matter of choosing bulbs that work well with a desired dimmer as it can be choosing a dimmer that works well with your loads. At least for a new build.

With my LED loads being from 10W up to a max of around 150-200W, I would think the 6ND as a newer offering at a significant price savings over the 10ND but using similar technology would be a no brainier. And when I search and peruse Lutron forums I find talk about it becoming a defacto choice etc.

My confusion is then why isn't it in the Essentials software? Is it actually compatible with Ra2, or just select only? I guess I could call Lutron. Just figured its easier (and lazier!) to ask here first.

As for your other questions, still working through just how many keypads I might use. The wife likes the idea direct control over a single group of lights (probably because this is all she's familiar with). My goal would be to automate so much and use scenes for the rest that the single button dimmers are rarely used. At a bit of a crossroads on whether I would then want a bunch of dimmers cluttering walls that are rarely used.

Keypads would probably go at front door and garage door entry, master bedroom, and probably one location convenient to the main living areas (kitchen, keeping, living).

Why the stairwell? Wouldn't have thought about that...
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post #2155 of 2336 Old 12-19-2018, 12:01 PM
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Call. Ask. Cut right to the chase.

LEDs are more of a hassle than most folks realize. Might as well get off on the right foot.

I planned our lighting like it was non-automated and added a single gang position where a box would could use a keypad. The bottom-most button on any keypad is always an "All Off" for it's controlled area. The main entry doors use All Off for the whole house.

The stairwell keypad has buttons for the kids rooms. This to illuminate a set of lights. Which is mainly to bring up the bedroom and bathroom lights for bed time. That's on the stairway post going up.

A keypad on the wall going down has buttons rec room play, workshop and theater (among other things). Those are scenes that illuminate one set of lights, but turn off a whole batch of others that might have been left lit. Basically, make it feel safe to go into the area but then turn off every other light they also left on. The slick part is having different delay and fade times. Some lights drop off immediately, to let you know the button press worked. The rest either start a few seconds later (like to let you get up the stairs before turning them off) or have a longer fade (like the bathrooms to give someone in there a chance to over-ride the slowly dimming light).

Scenes seem great in marketing materials. Modes for 'atmosphere' just seem artificial to me. In real life they're of questionable merit. Having a limited number of buttons really makes it a hassle to use them to their best effect. However, adding voice control opens things up a bit. You still have to program a scene somewhere (the repeater gives you several phantoms) but then you can call that instead of trying to poke little buttons. Even with that we still don't really have a lifestyle that needs scenes set up like that. YMMV, of course, just one man's opinion here.

My suggestion is put a keypad where there's a transition point. At the entry doors and stairway are pretty obvious. At a kitchen island or the dining room is another (to control the lighting in the other spaces). Likewise any place that might benefit from a combined way to control more than one area's lighting. A bar to set the lighting in the adjacent theater, for example.

They don't have to be 'everywhere' nor does there have to be a ton of them but a few here and there go a long way toward a well-automated setup.
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post #2156 of 2336 Old 12-19-2018, 12:24 PM
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Also consider than in places where you might use an 3-way setup, you could use a keypad instead.

Side note, Lutron's RD-RD dimmers support any number of accessory dimmers. You can string multiple ones onto a load. 3-way, 4-way, or more. Not that you'd necessarily want to do this, but they handle the switching via a signalling line, not the whole live load.

For example, we've got a rec room that has a number of area/activity/task lights. Pool table, foosball, ceiling cans, table lamps, nearby utility closet with fridge, etc. All of them have their dimmer near their location. The main entry point to the rec room has a keypad and several remote RD-RD accessory dimmers (the second-half of a typical 3-way). It's only the major lighting that's available there on the accessory dimmers (nearby bar pendant lights and the ceiling cans). The rest are all buttons on the keypad. This makes for a simpler 3-gang wall plate at the entrance instead of a monstrous row to separate ones. If we want specific task lights we can either tap the dimmer close to them, use a keypad button or voice control (our most common method lately). Nice part is the bottom 'All Off' scene will turn them all off.

What's better looking? A keypad and two paddles, or an 8-gang line of paddles? Me, I hate long rows of dimmers, because they don't immediately make it obvious what they control. It becomes a whack-a-mole game to get the desired lighting. Two paddles on major lights handle getting the spaces 'usable' and then the labeled keypad buttons handle the rest.
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post #2157 of 2336 Old 12-19-2018, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigus View Post
Forgive me if this was covered already, forum search and Google search didn't get to an answer quickly.

Just getting started with the Essentials software to get a BOM and cost estimate on our new home build to see if it is an option.

I don't see the RRD-6ND as an option under any load type. Quick search seems to indicate its a Select product line option but should work fine with RadioRa2. I wanted to get confirmation of this as many LED lighting loads are well under the wattage limit and its a decent cost savings over the 10ND. Of course I would probably order one switch and a few LED bulbs to verify for myself that I like the dimming vs say 10ND, 6CL, 6NA.

Can it be directly substituted for the 10ND so long as load limits are followed? Meaning, will the Essentials software recognize and program it correctly? Or have I overlooked something obvious?

What version of the Essentials software are you running? That is likely the issue. When I completed the training and was given a link to download the software, it gave me a pretty old version. I created a MyLutron account and was able to download the latest version. That one had the 6ND dimmer.


I have used the 6ND dimmer extensively through my house, and it has performed better with LEDs than anything but the 6NA, which is much more expensive. The worst for me was the 6CL. Of course, YMMV.

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post #2158 of 2336 Old 12-19-2018, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by socalsharky View Post
What version of the Essentials software are you running? That is likely the issue. When I completed the training and was given a link to download the software, it gave me a pretty old version. I created a MyLutron account and was able to download the latest version. That one had the 6ND dimmer.
I'll have to check but that seems a likely culprit... I used the download link provided when I finished the training and assumed that would be the latest version.
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post #2159 of 2336 Old 12-19-2018, 04:24 PM
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Oh... and did you really meann the 6NA is much cheaper? Or more expensive? Quick Google search I find similar prices from a source or two but haven't dug too deeply into list price or what common street prices are.
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post #2160 of 2336 Old 12-19-2018, 05:04 PM
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Oh... and did you really meann the 6NA is much cheaper? Or more expensive? Quick Google search I find similar prices from a source or two but haven't dug too deeply into list price or what common street prices are.

Sorry, I meant more expensive. I edited the post above. The dimmers I used by price: 6ND < 6CL < 6NA.


If you have a neutral wire, the 6ND should provide the best performance/cost ratio of all. I used a couple of 6CL's where I didn't have a neutral (switches added by electrician after original construction) and a couple of 6NA's for some really finicky LEDs.
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