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post #2251 of 2336 Old 01-23-2019, 02:54 PM
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Really enjoyed these comments ^^^^
Heh, thanks.

I don't come at all this from the angle that I know how it all works. I don't, and I'm always prepared to learn more, or acknowledge I've missed something.

Instead, I come at it from the angle that I sure as Hell know what annoys my wife. And I try to warn people around mistakes I've either made, have seen others make or see as likely being annoying. If it helps someone else, great!
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post #2252 of 2336 Old 01-24-2019, 04:19 AM
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Has anyone used the RR-15APS-1 in-line module with a sink water heater? The kind that makes instant hot water?

I've tried using one and it's been hit-and-miss. It's there (RF-wise) but doesn't always turn on. I don't have an abundance of these so I can't readily swap it out. I don't know if mine's acting up or if there are limits as to what kind of load it can reliably control.

I'm guessing my next step would be to use an LMJ-16R-DV-B Powpak, but is that known to reliably control a resistive load like a sink water heater?

I'd love to go a step further and use an RMJ-H20R-DV-B but that's not whitelisted for use on Ra2.

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post #2253 of 2336 Old 01-24-2019, 01:30 PM
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I took a look at the installation guide for the water heater and filter combo - not sure why, but it says

"The wall outlet for your dispenser must have power supplied to it continuously..."

Not sure why that would be a requirement. Call and ask? Their Canadian support techs may be friendlier than those in the US.

https://www.insinkerator.ca/contact-us

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post #2254 of 2336 Old 01-24-2019, 01:43 PM
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I'd imagine they want to avoid idiocy like customers thinking powering it on from a wall switch would somehow magically instantly the reservoir of water.

I had this running for at least a month or two but had the wife complaining it sometimes wasn't hot. It must've retained enough heat from the last on cycled I'd scheduled for it. Next time around it would run without issue. Now, I could have continued to question my wife's opinion on the water being hot or not... or I could wisely punt and take the 15APS out of the circuit... which I did.

It's since proven reliable powering a desk lamp on/off without fail. Not the same sort of load, of course, but proving it does at least receive RF commands properly and function.

I may just get a Powpak and wire the socket for it. There's room alongside the junction box under the cabinet, so it won't be too much of a chore/hack.
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post #2255 of 2336 Old 01-27-2019, 03:41 PM
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We had some work done in our kitchen and the electricians weren't too careful with where they reinstalled the dimmers. So now I am faced with either removing the dimmers and reinstalling them in the correct places or deleting them in Inclusive and resetting, adding, and reactivating them again. There are at least 6 dimmers involved, so a lot of work either way. Is there an easier way in Inclusive to Move an existing dimmer to a new location or some other shortcut?

TIA
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post #2256 of 2336 Old 01-27-2019, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ksalno View Post
. There are at least 6 dimmers involved
TIA
six isn't too bad, that's easier than moving. Just add an extra one during the editing to use for cut/paste of programming
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post #2257 of 2336 Old 01-27-2019, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksalno View Post
. There are at least 6 dimmers involved
TIA
six isn't too bad, that's easier than moving. Just add an extra one during the editing to use for cut/paste of programming
before you do it make sure to export an integration report so that you can confirm that the integration IDs are the same. That could be important if you're using any external control
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post #2258 of 2336 Old 01-28-2019, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksalno View Post
We had some work done in our kitchen and the electricians weren't too careful with where they reinstalled the dimmers. So now I am faced with either removing the dimmers and reinstalling them in the correct places or deleting them in Inclusive and resetting, adding, and reactivating them again. There are at least 6 dimmers involved, so a lot of work either way. Is there an easier way in Inclusive to Move an existing dimmer to a new location or some other shortcut?

TIA
You can just drag them into the new room in the design tab.

If you are in the same "Room" with different "Device Locations" Literally click on the device (the actual picture of the dimmer, one at a time) and drag them into the positions you want in the othe Device Location.


Or the same process is true if you just want to re-arrange the same box (device Location)

You can also drag and drop and entire "Device Location" to a new "Room". Just grab the header and drag it to the room tree on the left of the screen.

Additionally, for button programming (program tab), you have to right click, copy & paste button by button, or if you if you click on the wallplate, you can copy the entire keypad. This is helpful if you have mulitple keypads that will do the same thing, or even if just the majority will, then you can reprogram a few others. It has to be the same button count or higher, or some of the info will be truncated.

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post #2259 of 2336 Old 01-29-2019, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
You can just drag them into the new room in the design tab.

If you are in the same "Room" with different "Device Locations" Literally click on the device (the actual picture of the dimmer, one at a time) and drag them into the positions you want in the othe Device Location.

Or the same process is true if you just want to re-arrange the same box (device Location)

You can also drag and drop and entire "Device Location" to a new "Room". Just grab the header and drag it to the room tree on the left of the screen.

Additionally, for button programming (program tab), you have to right click, copy & paste button by button, or if you if you click on the wallplate, you can copy the entire keypad. This is helpful if you have mulitple keypads that will do the same thing, or even if just the majority will, then you can reprogram a few others. It has to be the same button count or higher, or some of the info will be truncated.
To clarify, if I read it right, he's got six dimmers that were working, but removed for some renovation. The wiring for each position stayed the same. But the dimmers were all put back in different locations.

Let's stop here and ask a question... where they all the SAME MODEL DIMMER? If not, stop and put the right ones physically back in their correct locations. Because some dimmers are designed to control different kinds of lighting. Just re-programming scenes and stuff for them WILL NOT FIX THIS.

The question I'm unclear about is how 'fixed' the Ra2 software (and thus the transferred database is) to the device serial number, or if it's to the Integration ID.

Every Ra2 device has a serial number. That's what the system uses when you activate a device. You never really see this anywhere else in the software. Once a device is added to the project it gets assigned an integration ID. The integration ID is the number that any external system would use to communicate with the device. You can change a device's Integration ID (from the menu Settings->Integration->IDs tab).

But I'm not sure what the system itself uses to coordinate devices and scenes. I don't know if it's the Integration ID or the activation Serial Number.
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post #2260 of 2336 Old 01-30-2019, 03:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
To clarify, if I read it right, he's got six dimmers that were working, but removed for some renovation. The wiring for each position stayed the same. But the dimmers were all put back in different locations.

Let's stop here and ask a question... where they all the SAME MODEL DIMMER? If not, stop and put the right ones physically back in their correct locations. Because some dimmers are designed to control different kinds of lighting. Just re-programming scenes and stuff for them WILL NOT FIX THIS.

The question I'm unclear about is how 'fixed' the Ra2 software (and thus the transferred database is) to the device serial number, or if it's to the Integration ID.

Every Ra2 device has a serial number. That's what the system uses when you activate a device. You never really see this anywhere else in the software. Once a device is added to the project it gets assigned an integration ID. The integration ID is the number that any external system would use to communicate with the device. You can change a device's Integration ID (from the menu Settings->Integration->IDs tab).

But I'm not sure what the system itself uses to coordinate devices and scenes. I don't know if it's the Integration ID or the activation Serial Number.
Yes all dimmers are the same and interchangeable. The RA2 controller uses the serial number to address the device and the programming follows the device, not the location or zone it is installed in. What I ended up doing is deleting all the devices in Inclusive, resetting the dimmers to factory defaults, adding them back in design, adding them back to the appropriate scenes in programming, then running an activation and transfer to the main repeater. This worked but was time consuming. I couldn’t come up with any short cut that would work but thanks for the suggestions.
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post #2261 of 2336 Old 01-30-2019, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksalno View Post
Yes all dimmers are the same and interchangeable. The RA2 controller uses the serial number to address the device and the programming follows the device, not the location or zone it is installed in. What I ended up doing is deleting all the devices in Inclusive, resetting the dimmers to factory defaults, adding them back in design, adding them back to the appropriate scenes in programming, then running an activation and transfer to the main repeater. This worked but was time consuming. I couldn’t come up with any short cut that would work but thanks for the suggestions.
The serial number field for the devices IS editable in the software. I was thinking it might have been possible to just rearrange the serial numbers and transfer again. But when I replied previously I was on my phone and couldn't reply with the detail I wanted to include.
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post #2262 of 2336 Old 01-30-2019, 06:06 AM
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RE: Dimming

We have installed over 50 switches (hybrids, dimmers etc) in my new home and our LED integrated cans can dim amazingly low, just like an incandescents. I was surprised by this as my previous ZWave dimmers had hardly any dimming range.

We used recommended bulbs from the Lutron program at their site to match proper LED bulbs to their dimmers and those bulbs also have a very high dimming range.

Really pleased so far. Never thought LEDs could dim so well!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
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post #2263 of 2336 Old 01-30-2019, 10:36 AM
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RE: Dimming

We have installed over 50 switches (hybrids, dimmers etc) in my new home and our LED integrated cans can dim amazingly low, just like an incandescents. I was surprised by this as my previous ZWave dimmers had hardly any dimming range.

We used recommended bulbs from the Lutron program at their site to match proper LED bulbs to their dimmers and those bulbs also have a very high dimming range.

Really pleased so far. Never thought LEDs could dim so well!
Do you mind sharing exactly which bulb/dimmer pairings you used? Lutron's compatibility tool/chart trims it down to... a couple of hundred maybe?! Thanks.
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post #2264 of 2336 Old 02-07-2019, 07:17 AM
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Do you mind sharing exactly which bulb/dimmer pairings you used? Lutron's compatibility tool/chart trims it down to... a couple of hundred maybe?! Thanks.
I'm very curious as well.
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post #2265 of 2336 Old 02-07-2019, 08:16 AM
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I'm very curious as well.
Me too.



While I must say I am happy with the dimming performance that I get, it is still nothing like halogen or regular incandescent. I can dim a halogen to 1 percent and it still looks great--nice yellow glow, no flicker, etc. I have mainly used the Sylvania integrated LED can lights, and while they perform well, they shut down at about 15% and are still reasonably bright at that point. No flickering, but just won't dim all the way down.
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post #2266 of 2336 Old 02-07-2019, 09:08 AM
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Me too.



While I must say I am happy with the dimming performance that I get, it is still nothing like halogen or regular incandescent. I can dim a halogen to 1 percent and it still looks great--nice yellow glow, no flicker, etc. I have mainly used the Sylvania integrated LED can lights, and while they perform well, they shut down at about 15% and are still reasonably bright at that point. No flickering, but just won't dim all the way down.
Yep. I've used LED retrofit reflector bulbs in most of the cans in the house, but I have a handful of cans that are path-of-light/nightlight fixtures and the LED retrofit bulbs don't dim down low enough for that. I'd be willing to get up into the attic and replace those handful of fixtures with dedicated LED fixtures if I was confident I could get super low dimming out of them.
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post #2267 of 2336 Old 02-07-2019, 09:22 AM
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Yep. I've used LED retrofit reflector bulbs in most of the cans in the house, but I have a handful of cans that are path-of-light/nightlight fixtures and the LED retrofit bulbs don't dim down low enough for that. I'd be willing to get up into the attic and replace those handful of fixtures with dedicated LED fixtures if I was confident I could get super low dimming out of them.

Me too--let me know when you find them . Perhaps Paul (@spiwrx;) will chime in here, but I don't think you can get that type of LED performance without going to some high end stuff with special drivers. The only LEDs I've found that can go super low are the Philips Hue bulbs, and they obviously require a separate hub. I use them in my media room, and they go very low, with a nice yellow tone.
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post #2268 of 2336 Old 02-07-2019, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigus View Post
Do you mind sharing exactly which bulb/dimmer pairings you used? Lutron's compatibility tool/chart trims it down to... a couple of hundred maybe?! Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by njmike View Post
I'm very curious as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by socalsharky View Post
Me too.



While I must say I am happy with the dimming performance that I get, it is still nothing like halogen or regular incandescent. I can dim a halogen to 1 percent and it still looks great--nice yellow glow, no flicker, etc. I have mainly used the Sylvania integrated LED can lights, and while they perform well, they shut down at about 15% and are still reasonably bright at that point. No flickering, but just won't dim all the way down.
I have that info - somewhere. I will post in a few days. Busy trying to wrap up build!

I had bought a number of bulbs to try from Feit, Philips, GE - most form the recommended bulb list. We wanted to use Integrated lighting, but typically they are not as dimmable. However, the integrated LED cans worked / dimmed just as well but since integrated, esthetically looked they looked better than single bulbs in a typical can - they all dimmed well . but all 3000K bulbs are not the same and some got a bit yellow. But all dimmed well. For all chandeliers, fixtures, we used SATCO bulbs (see Lutron search engine). All versions of Satco LEDs were perfect and great dimming.

We also found that in calculating the load for each switch type, using too few bulbs effected the amount of dimming (negatively). For example, we have some areas that have 6 cans on one switch. When 4 were placed and we tried them, the results weren't great - but once all 6 in, all good. I don't recall my electrician's explanation of this but he calculated loads to order correct Ra2 switches for each bank of lights.

Thanks

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.

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post #2269 of 2336 Old 03-13-2019, 10:42 PM
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What magic is this? (double blinds)

If you watch this youtube video (
) it shows lutron shades in a bedroom with one layer for light-filtering and one layer for blackout. It looks like the smaller window has both shades mounted in the frame. How are they doing this? Is there a dual roller triathalon qs shade that works with rollers?
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post #2270 of 2336 Old 03-13-2019, 11:07 PM
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Probably the dual bracket mounts. http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...neal_Guide.pdf

Likewise I think the also have fascia, sills and side channels you can add to better confine the edges. But this I'm guessing is not a DIY scenario. Shade design and setup is more tedious than you might first guess.
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post #2271 of 2336 Old 03-16-2019, 01:42 PM
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Lutron Motion Detector via Homeseer

I would like to create Homeseer automation events using my Lutron occupancy/vacancy sensors. I was hoping to set the timeout on the vacancy sensors to 1 minute, and then use Homeseer (rather than RA2) to trigger various events based on the time elapsed since the trigger. However, the motion sensor communicates with the switch directly through the repeater. When I deleted the RA2 events associated with the motion detector, it no longer sends a motion/no motion signal that Homeseer can detect.

Is there a workaround for this? Perhaps create a virtual device or button within the Lutron Essentials software that is tied to the motion sensor?
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post #2272 of 2336 Old 03-16-2019, 08:25 PM
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You can have a motion sensor work with two separate groups of devices. One group is occupancy, the second is vacancy. They do not have to control the same devices. They can set each of the devices to any value (off, on or any dim level). I have vacancy for several sensors set to also turn off some other lights 'nearby' that might likely have been turned on and are no longer needed. Motion turns on a vanity... vacancy also turns off ceiling cans and the hallway immediately outside of it (but with a 5 minute delay).

I seem to recall HS3 was able to track vacancy for the sensor. As in, the sensor has detected there's nothing happening after the sensor-configured amount of time, so it then fires the vacancy scene. I just looked in my HS3 setup and it does have the ability to track a device changes and becomes 'No Motion', which is the HS3-ish name for what Lutron calls Vacancy.

You can create virtual devices in Ra2. I've got a room called Virtual that I've used to test how some more complex devices appear via automation (wallbox dimmers, etc). You could use that.

Honestly, Ra2's occupancy/vacancy is excellent. Why would you want to skip it?

As a side note, I have attended the training and have Inclusive level access to programming the repeaters. I know that certain device types are only available via Inclusive. I seem to recall some scene types might also be similarly restricted. I'm not certain. The training class was WELL worth the time/expense. Lots of little things you might not otherwise understand how/why to use.
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post #2273 of 2336 Old 03-16-2019, 10:55 PM
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I have something similar to you, though not with motions. I put a single 3-button Pico with up/down on each side of the (master) bed. The on/off and up/down buttons control the main bedroom light. The middle circle button can only control a scene so I can’t toggle the master bathroom nightlight as I’d like. So the circle button turns on the master bathroom night light when we go to the bathroom at night. And the off button of the Pico turns off both the master bedroom light and the master bathroom nightlight. So with a RadioRa2 system, a button (or motion sensor) can control more than the local load.

And I figured if I ever needed more than 100 devices or another reason to get Inclusive, the cost isn’t that much to be able to open up the full RadioRa2 system. Glad it was valuable to you.
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post #2274 of 2336 Old 03-17-2019, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
I seem to recall HS3 was able to track vacancy for the sensor. As in, the sensor has detected there's nothing happening after the sensor-configured amount of time, so it then fires the vacancy scene. I just looked in my HS3 setup and it does have the ability to track a device changes and becomes 'No Motion', which is the HS3-ish name for what Lutron calls Vacancy.

Honestly, Ra2's occupancy/vacancy is excellent. Why would you want to skip it?

Yes, HS3 can track motion/no motion (occupancy/vacancy). However, the RA2 sensor only sends the occupancy/vacancy notification if it is tied to a device.


I agree that the RA2 occupancy/vacancy sensors work very well. The response time is great. The problem comes when you would like to trigger events off of different time intervals, or temporarily disable the motion detector (MD). Once you set the time interval on the MD, that is the value you have to live with. Neither RA2 or HS3 can direct the sensor. And since the motion-controlled light behavior is entirely within RA2, HS3 can't change this.



For instance, I currently have the MD in the garage set to turn off the lights in 1 minute. If I happen to be in a corner of the garage that is out of range of the MD for even 1 minute, the lights go off. I would like to be able to temporarily disable this behavior. I was able to do it with HS3, but only by detecting when the lights go off and then immediately turning them back on. With a Zwave MD, the HS3 software interprets the MD signal, and the event logic can be manipulated.



Similarly, it would be nice to know within a minute or so when a room had become unoccupied. However, if you set the MD to 1 minute, then the lights go out way too quickly.
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post #2275 of 2336 Old 03-23-2019, 06:17 AM
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Radio Ra2 and Honeywell TotalConnect?

Anyone link RadioRa2 with Honeywell Vista to use and control Lutron lighting, TSTATs, etc via Total Connect app? Possible using the Honeywell Home Automation 4232 interface?

Thanks

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
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post #2276 of 2336 Old 03-28-2019, 01:36 PM
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I have a full RadioRa2 install at my home, but no occupancy sensors. Can some of you guys that have some testify as to how responsive they are (not so much 'on', which I presume is plenty fast, but rather 'off')? Are these things appropriate to use say, in a pantry or other closet (light on when door opens, light off when door closes)?
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post #2277 of 2336 Old 03-28-2019, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Swancoat View Post
I have a full RadioRa2 install at my home, but no occupancy sensors. Can some of you guys that have some testify as to how responsive they are (not so much 'on', which I presume is plenty fast, but rather 'off')? Are these things appropriate to use say, in a pantry or other closet (light on when door opens, light off when door closes)?

As you mention, they are very fast to turn on; it's almost instant when you walk in the room. Depending upon where you locate them, they can detect your presence as you approach the room. This may or may not be desirable, as you could get lots of false triggers.


As for turning the lights off, you can set the sensors for 1, 5, 15, or 30 minute vacancy. There is no way to have them turn off immediately upon closing the closet door. It's a little tricky to adjust the sensitivity for the "no motion" trigger to be sent to the main repeater. For a closet or pantry, you might want to consider a wired magnetic contact switch and relay. I did this for my coat closet, and it works flawlessly, but you do have to run some wires. Total for the parts was less than $30. Instant on when you open the door, and instant off when you close it.
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post #2278 of 2336 Old 03-28-2019, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by socalsharky View Post
As you mention, they are very fast to turn on; it's almost instant when you walk in the room. Depending upon where you locate them, they can detect your presence as you approach the room. This may or may not be desirable, as you could get lots of false triggers.


As for turning the lights off, you can set the sensors for 1, 5, 15, or 30 minute vacancy. There is no way to have them turn off immediately upon closing the closet door. It's a little tricky to adjust the sensitivity for the "no motion" trigger to be sent to the main repeater. For a closet or pantry, you might want to consider a wired magnetic contact switch and relay. I did this for my coat closet, and it works flawlessly, but you do have to run some wires. Total for the parts was less than $30. Instant on when you open the door, and instant off when you close it.
I currently have some Insteon door sensors doing the job, but those are the last vestiges of Insteon I have left, and I’d like to get rid of it once and for all.
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post #2279 of 2336 Old 03-29-2019, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Swancoat View Post
I have a full RadioRa2 install at my home, but no occupancy sensors. Can some of you guys that have some testify as to how responsive they are (not so much 'on', which I presume is plenty fast, but rather 'off')? Are these things appropriate to use say, in a pantry or other closet (light on when door opens, light off when door closes)?
For areas that I may go in and out of frequently or where the door is generally open, I use the Lutron occupancy sensors. For example, I have them in the walk-in closets in the MBR. They come on immediately and I have them set to turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity. In a clothes closest you just need to be careful where you put them. Mine replaced an existing light switch and I have to be careful how I hang my clothes so I don’t block the sensor. If I’m going to bed and want the light to turn off immediately, I just touch the button and it turns off immediately. I also use them for rooms in the basement where it’s dark on entry and may be hard for someone to see the switch.

For closets like pantry or coat closets where there is a door that is normally closed, I use mechanical on/off switches that operate instantly to turn the lights on/off when the door is open/closed. These are not under RA2 control and I don’t feel they need to be.
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post #2280 of 2336 Old 03-30-2019, 01:25 PM
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Anyone have an "Inclusive RA2' program? Rather not take the course to get it.

Thanks!!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
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