Lutrons RadioRA2 - Page 77 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 197Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #2281 of 2336 Old 03-30-2019, 03:20 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Hey guys so I just finished the course ... I am starting to plan the lights before our apartment.... We wanted to use some power modules with keypads to make a clean look but unfortunately the software doesn't allow to add the power modules until lvl 2 .....

Does anyone here does this for a living ??? I want to purchase a whole lot of devices and I rather do it with someone with more knowledge than me .... And maybe get a good deal
shremi is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2282 of 2336 Old 04-06-2019, 10:39 AM
AVS Forum Club Gold
 
gdfein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Houston
Posts: 271
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Liked: 49
I’m finishing an outdoor kitchen, bar and lounge area. It will have two sections of can lights and two ceiling fans, and two flood lights under the eaves. We have four switch locations so I’m guessing the electrician has wired for both fans to be in parallel.

I have about 30% of the inside home on RadRa2 already and I was thinking of doing these outside circuits with RA2 as well.

Question, can two ceiling fans be wired to a single fan speed controller? Any of you have similar outdoor living spaces think this is the way to go, or should I go with just a traditional on off switch and do a wireless remote for the fans and separate control to be able to have separate speeds? One fan is over the lounge area and the other is over the kitchen area so perhaps separate control has some purpose.

Curious on thoughts from this group.

Greg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

gdfein is offline  
post #2283 of 2336 Old 04-06-2019, 12:38 PM
Senior Member
 
socalsharky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 228
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 166 Post(s)
Liked: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by shremi View Post
Hey guys so I just finished the course ... I am starting to plan the lights before our apartment.... We wanted to use some power modules with keypads to make a clean look but unfortunately the software doesn't allow to add the power modules until lvl 2 .....

Does anyone here does this for a living ??? I want to purchase a whole lot of devices and I rather do it with someone with more knowledge than me .... And maybe get a good deal

Send a PM to Paul @spiwrx at Hank's Electric. I got all my stuff from him. He's very knowledgeable and pricing is very good.
spiwrx likes this.
socalsharky is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2284 of 2336 Old 04-08-2019, 07:20 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by socalsharky View Post
Send a PM to Paul @spiwrx at Hank's Electric. I got all my stuff from him. He's very knowledgeable and pricing is very good.
Thanks will do
shremi is offline  
post #2285 of 2336 Old 04-08-2019, 12:57 PM
Senior Member
 
spiwrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 422
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdfein View Post
I’m finishing an outdoor kitchen, bar and lounge area. It will have two sections of can lights and two ceiling fans, and two flood lights under the eaves. We have four switch locations so I’m guessing the electrician has wired for both fans to be in parallel.

I have about 30% of the inside home on RadRa2 already and I was thinking of doing these outside circuits with RA2 as well.

Question, can two ceiling fans be wired to a single fan speed controller? Any of you have similar outdoor living spaces think this is the way to go, or should I go with just a traditional on off switch and do a wireless remote for the fans and separate control to be able to have separate speeds? One fan is over the lounge area and the other is over the kitchen area so perhaps separate control has some purpose.

Curious on thoughts from this group.

Greg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would be better able to recommend a solution if we knew what each location was for and what it was wired to?
The Fan Speed Control 2ANF could handle 2 fans if you didn't exceed the 2amp (combined) rating.
Or you could use their Switch and use the Fan proprietary remotes. Unless you like changing speeds a lot, this would work.

If you have 2 independent wired control locations, you would like be able to take either route.
If you have a 3-way you could use a PICO or Keypad as your other location.
So yes, you have some options.



Using them outside with a weatherproof cover should be fine. I have had mine outside for 5years like this with no problems but we have moderate climate and little rain.
I recommend a plastic weatherproof cover as opposed to metal, it may improve your range, but it will work under metal as well.

Double check your fan is compatible with the fan speed control (most are), and it's motor amperage.
If not you can always use the switch.

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply
www.hankselectric.net
FB Page
[email protected]
spiwrx is offline  
post #2286 of 2336 Old 04-10-2019, 11:07 AM
Senior Member
 
spiwrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 422
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
Anyone have an "Inclusive RA2' program? Rather not take the course to get it.

Thanks!!
This an upgrade/update to the essentials software. What are you trying to get, you think you don't have w/ essentials? There is not much magic here. Just opens it up to 200 devices. Allows adding a second main repeater, a few of the inclusive only parts, WPM, power modules, Grafik T.

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply
www.hankselectric.net
FB Page
[email protected]
spiwrx is offline  
post #2287 of 2336 Old 04-10-2019, 11:11 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
thebland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Detroit, Michigan USA
Posts: 26,285
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2188 Post(s)
Liked: 1396
I believe the global scenes / buttons are Inclusive only. I have over a dozen hybrid keypads and the likes. Changes would be far faster. And I’m not far from needing a second Main Repeater. . That’s a big convenience.

EDIT: As I just went through Inclusive, it can download (Extract) the current file from the Main Releater. Essentials cannot do that. If you lose or corrupt your essentials file, you likely have to reprogram a system.

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.

Last edited by thebland; 04-10-2019 at 07:53 PM.
thebland is online now  
post #2288 of 2336 Old 04-11-2019, 08:54 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
thebland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Detroit, Michigan USA
Posts: 26,285
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2188 Post(s)
Liked: 1396
QUESTION:

My installer left me the RA2 program file, I have the software.

To add new devices (I have 2 Grafik Eyes and a Hybrid Controller and T-Stat to add. I add them in the design tab, program them, Activate, transfer - No need to use 'ADD' button on the Main Repeater - correct?

Also, if I program the Grafik Eyes locally at their interface (not in software), will the settings I've programmed transfer automatically back to my software file when I hit transfer? Or do I need to extract project file?

Also, is it imperative to put in load info, bulb type, # of bulbs in the zone with the RA2 software is all is properly installed in the room?

Thanks

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
thebland is online now  
post #2289 of 2336 Old 04-11-2019, 05:52 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
thebland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Detroit, Michigan USA
Posts: 26,285
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2188 Post(s)
Liked: 1396
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
QUESTION:

My installer left me the RA2 program file, I have the software.

To add new devices (I have 2 Grafik Eyes and a Hybrid Controller and T-Stat to add. I add them in the design tab, program them, Activate, transfer - No need to use 'ADD' button on the Main Repeater - correct?

Also, if I program the Grafik Eyes locally at their interface (not in software), will the settings I've programmed transfer automatically back to my software file when I hit transfer? Or do I need to extract project file?

Also, is it imperative to put in load info, bulb type, # of bulbs in the zone with the RA2 software is all is properly installed in the room?

Thanks
Figured it all out. All good!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
thebland is online now  
post #2290 of 2336 Old 04-18-2019, 11:05 AM
Senior Member
 
spiwrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 422
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
QUESTION:

My installer left me the RA2 program file, I have the software.

To add new devices (I have 2 Grafik Eyes and a Hybrid Controller and T-Stat to add. I add them in the design tab, program them, Activate, transfer - No need to use 'ADD' button on the Main Repeater - correct?

Also, if I program the Grafik Eyes locally at their interface (not in software), will the settings I've programmed transfer automatically back to my software file when I hit transfer? Or do I need to extract project file?

Also, is it imperative to put in load info, bulb type, # of bulbs in the zone with the RA2 software is all is properly installed in the room?

Thanks
Even though you have it figured out, for the benefit of others:
  • To add new devices (I have 2 Grafik Eyes and a Hybrid Controller and T-Stat to add. I add them in the design tab, program them, Activate, transfer - No need to use 'ADD' button on the Main Repeater - correct? Correct, All the programming for RR2 is normally done through the software in the order you described. There is a way to manually program this, but you don't want to, it's a pain...
  • if I program the Grafik Eyes locally at their interface (not in software), will the settings I've programmed transfer automatically back to my software file when I hit transfer? Or do I need to extract project file? The keypad on the Grafik Eye is essentially treated as it's own keypad in the radio ra 2 system. You can set up "Scene(s)" on the Grafik Eye locally as you mentioned, and recall them from it's own or other keypad buttons if you program those buttons to Grafik Eye Scene1 (or any other scene number). In this regard you can change the "Scene" locally on the Grafik Eye as you described, but that scene is only for those lights connected (wired) to the grafik eye. So the programming for that scene stays locally with the grafik eye and any keypad buttons only send a command to enable that scene. The software and/or app (to the best of my knowledge) Don't know what that scene is exactly just to make it active when a keypad button programmed to that scene is pushed. This can be useful if it makes sense to everyone, but can cause trouble because it's possible to change the "scene" once it's been programmed (locally). Also if you have engraved buttons you have to take care in knowing that if they adjust the scene the labeling may not be accurate anymore. If you avoid recalling grafik eye "scenes" from a keypad button, and actually create the scene in the software instead you will have more flexibility to add/remove/edit/adjust those scenes from the software and/or app. Additionally you can incorporate other devices not on the local grafik eye. Scene(s) created on the grafik eye are only for circuits connected to it. Again, I really advise against using the Grafik Eye Scenes Locally, but there is an option for it.
  • is it imperative to put in load info, bulb type, # of bulbs in the zone with the RA2 software is all is properly installed in the room? No it is not necessary, but it's there to help you. If you don't include all that info, you need to make sure you select the right dimmer type and size your self. This feature does a few things, it tries to make sure you have the correct dimmer type, the correct dimmer wattage, and it will add necessary interfaces to the B.O.M.. I also like to use this to help identify lights in the room. Some people get lazy and name them "dimmer 1", "dimmer 2", and other generic terms. Chances are there are a different number of lights on each, so I like to at least include the number of lights to help someone troubleshooting or coming in after the fact, as I often do, determine which dimmer controls what lights.

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply
www.hankselectric.net
FB Page
[email protected]

Last edited by spiwrx; 04-24-2019 at 08:44 AM.
spiwrx is offline  
post #2291 of 2336 Old 04-24-2019, 09:18 AM
Senior Member
 
spiwrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 422
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Everyone, I monitor this thread, a Grafik Eye thread and poke into some others here on AVS in regards to HA & Lutron related questions. Over on the Grafik Eye thread there was a motion to remove it from "sticky" status because it had been there for so many years and they thought it to be irrelevant. Indeed the Grafik Eye has lost some market share to their own, Caseta, Radio Ra 2 & Select systems. Especially with the introduction of the RRD-6ND dimmer and the recent price increase of the Grafik Eye itself. Well this RR2 thread is approaching 10yrs. And the "sticky" part of the forum doesn't really have much weight for me, but I again want to thank everyone for supporting each other and keeping it positive. There are quite a few lurkers out there, many of you email or message me but please participate in the thread. I know hearing things from a different angle or perspective will benefit us all!

That being said I'd love to hear about some of your integrations, or what you use or benefit the most out of in the system?

I recently rescued a new dog, and it's daily routine has effected mine and in turn some of my morning "scene's" on my system. I was thinking how easy it is to adjust these scenes in the APP now and how much of a pain it was in the original (legacy) Radio Ra (1) system. In those days you would just except it for what it was. Now we can make changes on the fly.

Additionally I started using HS3(HomeSeer) & Alexa at the same time. For me Alexa bridges the gap between some of my 3rd party controlled receptacles & my Lutron system. Somewhat of a conditional I guess, but works easily for what I need & where I'm using it. HS3 I got just to help me understand it more and help some of you. My system is not so complicated but was easily able to create some conditionals there as well.

I often get asked whats new or coming, well I usually find out when you do. But I think at this point one of the few things still on the wish list is a controller receptacle, they actually have these for their commercial controls, but given the price the plug-ins they have always offered are a better deal.



Rambling today, but I recently went to "fix"(re-program) a system someone else had installed and programmed. The job was plagued by a general lack of understanding of some of the core RR2 components. 2 Main repeater system, both repeater placed side by side. This home needed some auxiliary repeaters because of it's size, but they could have doubled down by placing the 2nd main repeater where they placed the auxiliary repeaters. Where they did place auxiliaries they had 2, again side by side. Now I assume they thought they needed 1 for each main, but not necessarily true. The way they loaded the "rooms" in the software was very confusing. Most of the dimmers were remotely located in a common area. And they created a couple "rooms" for that remote area. It probably made some sense to him and no one else, but the software directly translates to the APP so the labeling in the APP was really confusing and just frustrating for the end user. I have seen this a few times and all I can say is yes, remote mount the dimmers, but in the software still create the rooms & areas as they are physically in the home. This way if someone is using the APP and they want to turn off a light in the master bedroom, they don't have to open "dimmer bank 3, switch 4"... In the software you can note the device location separately if you like, it's helpful for troubleshooting, but Make a "room" in the software as it's exits physically in the home. This also plays directly into the voice controls as they are becoming more popular. You don't want to sit in your living room and try to remember "Alexa, Turn on Dimmer bank 5 switch 4".... OK I'm done venting. If you had someone program a system for you and it's frustrating like this, just know it can be changed. They didn't either know well enough, or work with you close enough. The goal is to simplify the use, beautify the area by removing the "wall acne" of having 5 dimmer bank in your kitchen and reduce it to a single keypad, create well lit spaces, and hopefully save some electricity at the same time. It can be done...

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply
www.hankselectric.net
FB Page
[email protected]
spiwrx is offline  
post #2292 of 2336 Old 04-26-2019, 09:45 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
thebland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Detroit, Michigan USA
Posts: 26,285
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2188 Post(s)
Liked: 1396
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
Even though you have it figured out, for the benefit of others:
  • To add new devices (I have 2 Grafik Eyes and a Hybrid Controller and T-Stat to add. I add them in the design tab, program them, Activate, transfer - No need to use 'ADD' button on the Main Repeater - correct? Correct, All the programming for RR2 is normally done through the software in the order you described. There is a way to manually program this, but you don't want to, it's a pain...
  • if I program the Grafik Eyes locally at their interface (not in software), will the settings I've programmed transfer automatically back to my software file when I hit transfer? Or do I need to extract project file? The keypad on the Grafik Eye is essentially treated as it's own keypad in the radio ra 2 system. You can set up "Scene(s)" on the Grafik Eye locally as you mentioned, and recall them from it's own or other keypad buttons if you program those buttons to Grafik Eye Scene1 (or any other scene number). In this regard you can change the "Scene" locally on the Grafik Eye as you described, but that scene is only for those lights connected (wired) to the grafik eye. So the programming for that scene stays locally with the grafik eye and any keypad buttons only send a command to enable that scene. The software and/or app (to the best of my knowledge) Don't know what that scene is exactly just to make it active when a keypad button programmed to that scene is pushed. This can be useful if it makes sense to everyone, but can cause trouble because it's possible to change the "scene" once it's been programmed (locally). Also if you have engraved buttons you have to take care in knowing that if they adjust the scene the labeling may not be accurate anymore. If you avoid recalling grafik eye "scenes" from a keypad button, and actually create the scene in the software instead you will have more flexibility to add/remove/edit/adjust those scenes from the software and/or app. Additionally you can incorporate other devices not on the local grafik eye. Scene(s) created on the grafik eye are only for circuits connected to it. Again, I really advise against using the Grafik Eye Scenes Locally, but there is an option for it.
  • is it imperative to put in load info, bulb type, # of bulbs in the zone with the RA2 software is all is properly installed in the room? No it is not necessary, but it's there to help you. If you don't include all that info, you need to make sure you select the right dimmer type and size your self. This feature does a few things, it tries to make sure you have the correct dimmer type, the correct dimmer wattage, and it will add necessary interfaces to the B.O.M.. I also like to use this to help identify lights in the room. Some people get lazy and name them "dimmer 1", "dimmer 2", and other generic terms. Chances are there are a different number of lights on each, so I like to at least include the number of lights to help someone troubleshooting or coming in after the fact, as I often do, determine which dimmer controls what lights.
Great post here. Thanks!! enjoying the Ra2 system. Fun to program!

Appreciate you input here.

Tell me, what are 'roll backs'? I notice this option to 'enable rollbacks' when in the occupancy sensors section on rooms without sensors?

Also, I have a LCR2-OCR2F ceiling occupancy sensor. Can it double as an actual vacancy sensor? Or is that a different model that can do both occupancy and vacancy. I know it'll time out when acting as an occupancy sensor but can I make a vacancy sensor to turn off lights when no motion is detected? It seems like I can in the software but perhaps not - can't get it working.Or should it be set to 'auto-off, etc on the unit to accomplish such?. My electrician installed but I want to modify. I assume the settings (auto on, etc) are on the actual sensor?

[email protected]!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
thebland is online now  
post #2293 of 2336 Old 04-26-2019, 11:26 AM
Member
 
HDTVNYC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New York City
Posts: 117
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
A couple of items from me on RR2:

-When you have Sonos programmed to a keypad, the up/down buttons are exclusively set to control volume. I have single keypads in all rooms and was previously using them to control scenes and dimming of lights, later added Sonos where I just want to have an on/off and volume. Wish there was someway around this, maybe with a 3rd party controller.

-Dimming of plug-in LED lamps. I've seen so many manufacturers switch from screw in type bulbs to exclusively offering built-in LEDs on table/floor lamps. They either have no dim function or you have to use the buttons on the lamp. Would be great if there was some type plug-in dimmer that would work with these lamps.

-Would love to see the newer Grafik-T switches/keypads make it into the essentials software. I'm not sure why it's dedicated to inclusive since it acts just like the other dimmers/keypads.

I do have some use cases where conditional control would be helpful. Particularly with their HVAC controllers, they don't offer fan speeds or humidity options but it would be great to be able to turn on the A/C if humidity has hit a limit.

Considering purchasing a Hubitat as next steps for some basic conditional control since they have both the RR2 lighting and have also added RR2 HVAC control into the system. Other item is looking into CasaTunes which now integrates with RR2 to see if it removes some of the keypad limitations.
HDTVNYC is offline  
post #2294 of 2336 Old 04-27-2019, 08:24 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
thebland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Detroit, Michigan USA
Posts: 26,285
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2188 Post(s)
Liked: 1396
2nd Main Repeater Question

I want to add a second Main Repeater. Any special steps to do so? I'm at 83/100 on repeater #1 and thought I'd add a new repeater and add new items to the new on and leave the primary at 83?

Seems a simple enough procedure in the software but any advice to avoid pitfalls - the Inclusive software is light on support on this.

Thanks!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
thebland is online now  
post #2295 of 2336 Old 04-29-2019, 04:12 PM
Senior Member
 
spiwrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 422
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
Great post here. Thanks!! enjoying the Ra2 system. Fun to program!

Appreciate you input here.

Tell me, what are 'roll backs'? I notice this option to 'enable rollbacks' when in the occupancy sensors section on rooms without sensors?

Also, I have a LCR2-OCR2F ceiling occupancy sensor. Can it double as an actual vacancy sensor? Or is that a different model that can do both occupancy and vacancy. I know it'll time out when acting as an occupancy sensor but can I make a vacancy sensor to turn off lights when no motion is detected? It seems like I can in the software but perhaps not - can't get it working.Or should it be set to 'auto-off, etc on the unit to accomplish such?. My electrician installed but I want to modify. I assume the settings (auto on, etc) are on the actual sensor?

[email protected]!
Basically a count down timer. I don't know where or why that term was used except to maybe "roll-back" that device to it's previous state??
If you turn this on for a device, it will roll it back to what ever you programmed it for (likely 0% or Off) after a given time.
A few points on "Rollback"
  • Rollback is found in the occupancy settings
  • You have to enable this per "Room"
  • The "Room" can only have one "Timeout" setting, meaning you can only set one time in each room. If you want 2 different times for devices in the same "room" you need to create and secondary room and drag/drop that device to that room.
  • The timeout can is select-able at these increments only 15/30/60/90/120 minutes
  • Selected devices will default to 0% (off) when you select them to be enabled for Rollback in that room
  • If you turn on a "rollback" enable device, it will rollback to the light level programmed to the rollback after it times out. However it is initiated, from the device itself, from keypad button, or other timeclock schedule it will always rollback after it was initialed. Maybe in a hallway you want a light to come on at 100% so you can see well, but after rollback it goes to 20% so it's still a visible path?? More commonly I might use it for a closet, pantry, bathroom, bathroom exhaust fan, towel warmer, etc...
A word of caution on rollback, it should be explained well to the user, or they might think something is wrong when lights go off automatically.



Any Lutron Occupancy sensor can be programmed in the software for Occupancy (full auto on/off) or Vacancy (Manual on / Auto off), however for code reasons a Vacancy sensor cannot become an occupancy sensor. Thank the wonderful state of California for this... LRF2-Oxxxx vs. LRF2-Vxxxx (there are manual programming for the sensor, but it doesn't pertain to the RR2 system, it's for other systems. The sensors work cross platform. Except for the timing and sensitivity, the Occupancy vs. Vacancy is set up in the software in RR2.

  1. In the "Design" tab only when you add a sensor can you select it as Occupancy or Vacancy. This is not an edit-able feature. If you got it wrong you have to delete it and add it back in.
    caveat: in the same room, you cannot have both Occupancy and Vacancy Sensors for some reason. If you need both simply create a fake room, and add that other sensor there, or use only Occupancy if allowed by your AHJ, so you have flexibility to configure.
  2. For Occupancy Sensors you have to program what you want to happen for "Occupied" (initiated and before timeout) as well as "Unoccupied" (timeout expired)
    effectively you could program only the "Unoccupied" settings to make it act as a "Vacancy". As suggested above. If you added it as a vacancy only in the design tab you can only program the unoccupied settings.
  3. Remember it is literal. If you want a light to come on and off you have to program the Occupied and Unoccupied. It will do this for you by default, but you can edit it. In other words if you enable a device to a sensor when you check it, it will automatically set the device to 100%(on) and 0% off under the unoccupied. On the left of the screen at the bottom of the Occupancy sensor picture in the program tab, you can select the "Occupied" or "Unoccupied" fields and set them as you desire. Maybe on a bathroom you want your light and exhaust fan to come on while occupied. But you want the fan to run a little longer. There are several ways to do this, but to merge our examples, enable them both in the occupied but de-select the fan from the unoccupied. The fan is now staying on indefinitely. Then go to the roll back and select the fan only to rollback to 0%(off) at an interval longer then the sensor. Remember the timing on the sensor is done on the sensor physically, but the rollback, fade, delay etc.. is all done in the program.
In my own home I have the bathroom example but it was set up previous to the rollback feature being available. Instead I just adjusted the "Delay". In the "Program" tab at the bottom of the main screen there is a table of devices associated to whatever you are programing on the left. It's labeled "Programmed Item Name" if you right click on that bar on the title you can "show delay". Then you can add a delay to when you want that action programmed. So for my bath fan, when you hit the "Off" scene, the lights go out and the delay on the fan is set for 15minutes. So it will stay on for an additional delay of 15minutes after the off scene, and then it will go off, or start to fade off if it was a dimmer. So, in the case of the dimmer the off scene, would maintain it's light level for additional 15minutes then it would fade off it's default 2seconds. You could also set the fade to a longer duration and skip the delay. My porch light for instance comes on at 3pm and fades on from 0%-100% over 2hours. Why? because I can. You never notice my porch light come on, it's reaches full brightness as the sun sets and it's just on. Just remember if you start playing around with delays & fade the action of the trigger (button, sensor, time sch.) will only happen after the delay and + the fade time. It's easy to get lost when you start using them both, along with sensors having their own physical time setting. But keep that in mind an use it to your advantage. If you are using a sensor, use only it's minimum time setting and you can adjust the additional time as a delay and/or fade. In this case it would be sensor time + delay + the Fade. This way you don't have to get on the ladder to adjust the sensor timing!!!

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply
www.hankselectric.net
FB Page
[email protected]
spiwrx is offline  
post #2296 of 2336 Old 04-29-2019, 04:47 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
wkearney99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bethesda, MD USA
Posts: 2,048
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 390 Post(s)
Liked: 151
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
2nd Main Repeater Question

I want to add a second Main Repeater. Any special steps to do so? I'm at 83/100 on repeater #1 and thought I'd add a new repeater and add new items to the new on and leave the primary at 83?

Seems a simple enough procedure in the software but any advice to avoid pitfalls - the Inclusive software is light on support on this.
If you're going to be adding a lot of devices into existing rooms then you might want to move the room (and it's devices) to the new repeater. There's not an 'easy' way to do this because the devices need to be reset and re-paired to the 2nd repeater. Where it matters is any rooms that are going to be handled with a sensor or a roll-back. Otherwise it doesn't matter, scenes and keypads can control any of the devices, regardless of repeater pairing. That's about the only gotcha when expanding a setup.
wkearney99 is offline  
post #2297 of 2336 Old 04-29-2019, 05:17 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
thebland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Detroit, Michigan USA
Posts: 26,285
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2188 Post(s)
Liked: 1396
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
Basically a count down timer. I don't know where or why that term was used except to maybe "roll-back" that device to it's previous state??
If you turn this on for a device, it will roll it back to what ever you programmed it for (likely 0% or Off) after a given time.
A few points on "Rollback"
  • Rollback is found in the occupancy settings
  • You have to enable this per "Room"
  • The "Room" can only have one "Timeout" setting, meaning you can only set one time in each room. If you want 2 different times for devices in the same "room" you need to create and secondary room and drag/drop that device to that room.
  • The timeout can is select-able at these increments only 15/30/60/90/120 minutes
  • Selected devices will default to 0% (off) when you select them to be enabled for Rollback in that room
  • If you turn on a "rollback" enable device, it will rollback to the light level programmed to the rollback after it times out. However it is initiated, from the device itself, from keypad button, or other timeclock schedule it will always rollback after it was initialed. Maybe in a hallway you want a light to come on at 100% so you can see well, but after rollback it goes to 20% so it's still a visible path?? More commonly I might use it for a closet, pantry, bathroom, bathroom exhaust fan, towel warmer, etc...
A word of caution on rollback, it should be explained well to the user, or they might think something is wrong when lights go off automatically.
So, for roll backs, no need for any sensors. Sort of like an occupancy sensor but it is activated by turning on a light and will turn off at a programmed length of time? Correct?

All else is super well explained. Thanks so much. You're incredibly helpful!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
thebland is online now  
post #2298 of 2336 Old 04-29-2019, 05:18 PM
Senior Member
 
spiwrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 422
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVNYC View Post
A couple of items from me on RR2:

-When you have Sonos programmed to a keypad, the up/down buttons are exclusively set to control volume. I have single keypads in all rooms and was previously using them to control scenes and dimming of lights, later added Sonos where I just want to have an on/off and volume. Wish there was someway around this, maybe with a 3rd party controller.

-Dimming of plug-in LED lamps. I've seen so many manufacturers switch from screw in type bulbs to exclusively offering built-in LEDs on table/floor lamps. They either have no dim function or you have to use the buttons on the lamp. Would be great if there was some type plug-in dimmer that would work with these lamps.

-Would love to see the newer Grafik-T switches/keypads make it into the essentials software. I'm not sure why it's dedicated to inclusive since it acts just like the other dimmers/keypads.

I do have some use cases where conditional control would be helpful. Particularly with their HVAC controllers, they don't offer fan speeds or humidity options but it would be great to be able to turn on the A/C if humidity has hit a limit.

Considering purchasing a Hubitat as next steps for some basic conditional control since they have both the RR2 lighting and have also added RR2 HVAC control into the system. Other item is looking into CasaTunes which now integrates with RR2 to see if it removes some of the keypad limitations.

There different ways depending on your equipment to integrate Sonos, but the easiest way it to add a Sonos enable Pico. Otherwise take a look here at how to add Sonos to regular Lutron RR2 Keypads. (Note, these are multi system notes, please make sure you are following for Radio Ra 2)
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...s_App_Note.pdf


Also, I just tried and I was able to add a Pico Sonos control and Copy and Paste each button from the Sonos Pico to any other Keypad. I don't know if you need the actual sonos pico for setup. Maybe it says in those directions. I have not done it myself, but there is a way to at least get some limited control over your Sonos via other keypads.

Dimming LED lights, I could write pages. It's the bane of my existence. Buy a good lamp, not the cheapest one. Read before you buy, make sure it says dimmable somewhere. If it has it's own button, you can only switch if from Lutron and operate by it's own control. These are some sort of gimmick lamp or really cheesey cheap import.

I don't know why the Grafik T is on essentials either, but if you can afford them, I can help you with that. They are very $$$$

I don't know about Hubitat, but read through there help community, see if they are responsive. I know you can likely set up those scenarios through HomeSeer and they have a pretty good foothold in this area already. Hubitat looks to be inexpensive but do they sdeliver at that price?? Please let us know. I think Bill on here might have it?? Can you chime in?

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply
www.hankselectric.net
FB Page
[email protected]
spiwrx is offline  
post #2299 of 2336 Old 04-29-2019, 05:24 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
thebland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Detroit, Michigan USA
Posts: 26,285
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2188 Post(s)
Liked: 1396
Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
If you're going to be adding a lot of devices into existing rooms then you might want to move the room (and it's devices) to the new repeater. There's not an 'easy' way to do this because the devices need to be reset and re-paired to the 2nd repeater. Where it matters is any rooms that are going to be handled with a sensor or a roll-back. Otherwise it doesn't matter, scenes and keypads can control any of the devices, regardless of repeater pairing. That's about the only gotcha when expanding a setup.
Main Repeater Firmware Update
How often does Lutron update the firmware for Main Repeaters? Are there really any reasons to upgrade firmware if all is working?

I assume that when I add a second repeater, I should have both on same firmware...

How long (minutes) does it take to update the repeater and what is best practices (e.g. hard wired PC connection vs wifi to update, etc)? Do you have to reload your program or is it saved on the repeater?

Sorry for all the questions... and thanks so much!!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
thebland is online now  
post #2300 of 2336 Old 04-29-2019, 05:25 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
smoothtlk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,247
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 274 Post(s)
Liked: 84
"Also, I just tried and I was able to add a Pico Sonos control and Copy and Paste each button from the Sonos Pico to any other Keypad. I don't know if you need the actual sonos pico for setup. Maybe it says in those directions. I have not done it myself, but there is a way to at least get some limited control over your Sonos via other keypads. "

Our controller listens to the RadioRa Master repeater and "hears" a Pico (or other keypress) and we then map that to a Sonos API transport control send via TCP. Or a zillion other functions.

I am assuming you could do the same with two Homeseer drivers (radiora and a sonos).
smoothtlk is offline  
post #2301 of 2336 Old 04-29-2019, 05:29 PM
Senior Member
 
spiwrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 422
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
2nd Main Repeater Question

I want to add a second Main Repeater. Any special steps to do so? I'm at 83/100 on repeater #1 and thought I'd add a new repeater and add new items to the new on and leave the primary at 83?

Seems a simple enough procedure in the software but any advice to avoid pitfalls - the Inclusive software is light on support on this.

Thanks!
some tips:
  1. try and find a good divide. Upstairs / downstairs, Move all shades and or thermostats to 2nd main and keep dimmers on main. If you have a lot of keypads, place them on one, devices on another. Etc....
  2. Avoid splitting a common area or single room onto 2 different repeaters. There is a opportunity for a slight delay, that might be noticeable.
  3. Take of advantage if possible and also use it to extend range also, it is a repeater. If you have another location you can get power and Ethernet....
  4. If you have auxiliary repeaters make sure it is associated to the main repeater of wich the devices it's for are on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
If you're going to be adding a lot of devices into existing rooms then you might want to move the room (and it's devices) to the new repeater. There's not an 'easy' way to do this because the devices need to be reset and re-paired to the 2nd repeater. Where it matters is any rooms that are going to be handled with a sensor or a roll-back. Otherwise it doesn't matter, scenes and keypads can control any of the devices, regardless of repeater pairing. That's about the only gotcha when expanding a setup.

You can literally drag and drop and entire "room" from one main repeater to the next. You don't need to go through all that. I found out the hard way.... If you have a lot of devices in that room it might take a little time to move. select the room in the "Tree" view of the design tab and literally drag it to the second main repeater or vice versa. The same is true for keypad button programing. Also you can copy and paste single buttons, or copy (right click around the keypad on the wallplate) the entire keypad. If going to/from a different number of buttons you may lose some or do them individually. (Back up your project and play with it a training exercise)


Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
So, for roll backs, no need for any sensors. Sort of like an occupancy sensor but it is activated by turning on a light and will turn off at a programmed length of time? Correct?

All else is super well explained. Thanks so much. You're incredibly helpful!

Yes, more like a poor-mans vacancy... If that is all you need it for, no reason for the sensor.

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply
www.hankselectric.net
FB Page
[email protected]
spiwrx is offline  
post #2302 of 2336 Old 04-29-2019, 05:40 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
thebland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Detroit, Michigan USA
Posts: 26,285
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2188 Post(s)
Liked: 1396
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
some tips:
  1. try and find a good divide. Upstairs / downstairs, Move all shades and or thermostats to 2nd main and keep dimmers on main. If you have a lot of keypads, place them on one, devices on another. Etc....
  2. Avoid splitting a common area or single room onto 2 different repeaters. There is a opportunity for a slight delay, that might be noticeable.
  3. Take of advantage if possible and also use it to extend range also, it is a repeater. If you have another location you can get power and Ethernet....
  4. If you have auxiliary repeaters make sure it is associated to the main repeater of wich the devices it's for are on.




You can literally drag and drop and entire "room" from one main repeater to the next. You don't need to go through all that. I found out the hard way.... If you have a lot of devices in that room it might take a little time to move. select the room in the "Tree" view of the design tab and literally drag it to the second main repeater or vice versa. The same is true for keypad button programing. Also you can copy and paste single buttons, or copy (right click around the keypad on the wallplate) the entire keypad. If going to/from a different number of buttons you may lose some or do them individually. (Back up your project and play with it a training exercise)





Yes, more like a poor-mans vacancy... If that is all you need it for, no reason for the sensor.
More good info! Will do. Sounds like drag and drop will work? I can split up.

Is it a big deal to update the main repeater? How often does Lutron update the firmware for Main Repeaters and a there really any reasons to upgrade firmware if all is working well?

How long (minutes) does it take to update the repeater and what is best practices (e.g. hard wired PC connection vs wifi to update, etc)? Do you have to reload your program or is it saved on the repeater?

Again, Thanks!~!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
thebland is online now  
post #2303 of 2336 Old 04-30-2019, 08:18 AM
Senior Member
 
spiwrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 422
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
...

Is it a big deal to update the main repeater?
No, not a big deal. Just click on upper tab (top left) "Tools" > "Update main repeater firmware"

Quote:
How often does Lutron update the firmware for Main Repeaters and a there really any reasons to upgrade firmware if all is working well?
Usually they do firmware/software when new products or added or any major issues. It's been a while but maybe 1-2 times a year(if that). They are not scheduled, just happens when it happens. If everything is working well, you should never need to update it. But this is a double edged sword. If in the future you need to update to add a new feature and you have skipped a few versions you'll need the version of software you last were on possibly, to be able to extract it. So if you are doing your own programming keep a copy of the version of software you are currently using. You can download legacy versions of software from Lutron. I also have copies at least back to version 8.

Quote:
How long (minutes) does it take to update the repeater and what is best practices (e.g. hard wired PC connection vs wifi to update, etc)?
This will depend on your system, network and means of connection. My own system at home takes about 5-10minutes sometimes to do a regular program transfer. But other projects I have been on (larger) can take a lot longer. Updating the firmware only, probably should only take 5-10minutes. If you have solid wifi signal, I think it doesn't matter wifi vs. (wired) network. If you are having issues on wifi, I like to plug in to rule out the wifi. By "plug in" I mean into the network not directly to the main repeater.


Quote:
Do you have to reload your program or is it saved on the repeater?
If you are just doing a firmware update, you shouldn't have to transfer your job file (again) unless you are also making changes. When you do the "transfer" process it is saving the job file to the main repeater. When they launch a new software version (& in turn, usually a firmware as well) the typically offer a "read me" or pdf listing changes and current issues. I like to review these while I wait for the update.

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply
www.hankselectric.net
FB Page
[email protected]
spiwrx is offline  
post #2304 of 2336 Old 05-01-2019, 05:51 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
thebland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Detroit, Michigan USA
Posts: 26,285
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2188 Post(s)
Liked: 1396
Regarding Lutron T-Stats.

In the Software, it lists temps in 'ranges' or 'target Ranges'. What is this for? When I use the Lutron App, I can make precise temps (rather than ranges) and standard turn on times, etc.
Curious what the 'Target Range' is about in the software?

Thanks!

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Screen Shot 2019-04-30 at 6.21.17 PM.png
Views:	101
Size:	196.2 KB
ID:	2561240  

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
thebland is online now  
post #2305 of 2336 Old 05-02-2019, 01:46 PM
Senior Member
 
spiwrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 422
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
Regarding Lutron T-Stats.

In the Software, it lists temps in 'ranges' or 'target Ranges'. What is this for? When I use the Lutron App, I can make precise temps (rather than ranges) and standard turn on times, etc.
Curious what the 'Target Range' is about in the software?

Thanks!
If you want to set yours up like that, you can disregard that and just set up a regular schedule (timeclock) and set you days/time and you can pick that thermostat and a specific temperature.
If you want to hit a specific heat or cool temperature you can also program a keypad button to do so, or incorporate that into a light scene as well. So you can hit that temperature only when you want, or maybe as a temporary override from your regular schedule.
If you want it to be that precise you can also calibrate and and just the temperature offset. This will automatically add or subtract to the temperature the thermostat and/or sensors come in at.
So if your thermostat is down stairs and you upstairs guests are being cooked, you can play with the offset so it displays what the real temperature is upstairs. Or average it out. Alternately you may consider bringing in your marriage counselor to help you agree on a temperature. (my attempt at humor)

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply
www.hankselectric.net
FB Page
[email protected]
spiwrx is offline  
post #2306 of 2336 Old 05-08-2019, 11:13 AM
Senior Member
 
spiwrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 422
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Don't shoot the messenger...

From Lutron:

"
May 8, 2019

The following announcement is a change in service notification.



Yesterday, Google announced the elimination of its Works with Nest Program, effective August 31, 2019. As a result, Lutron system integration with Nest products will be impacted, making some or all integration features inaccessible starting August 31, 2019. Read the official Google announcement and more details from Google here.

As a member of the Works with Nest program, Lutron has offered Caséta by Lutron, RA2 Select, RadioRA 2, and HomeWorks QS customers a variety of integrated Nest features including thermostat control from the Lutron and Connect apps. Though Nest product integration will be impacted, Lutron systems will continue to be controlled by the Google Assistant through voice, the Google Home and Google Assistant apps, and through Home View on Google-enabled smart displays.

Lutron and Google will continue working together as part of the Works with Google Assistant program, which is designed to provide customers a single smart home product control experience. As Google winds down the Works with Nest Program, Lutron will distribute integration updates and continue to provide the best Lutron experience for your home.

You can find more information from Lutron here.

Thank you for your patience, The Lutron Team
"

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply
www.hankselectric.net
FB Page
[email protected]
spiwrx is offline  
post #2307 of 2336 Old 05-09-2019, 03:23 AM
Senior Member
 
schalliol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Carmel, IN, USA
Posts: 357
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Liked: 32
I’ve never found Nest to be any good for higher-end automation anyway, but I can see why Google is trying to create a cohesive solution.

I’d really like Lutron to move RA2 forward, and they have done essentially nothing for a long time.
schalliol is offline  
post #2308 of 2336 Old 05-10-2019, 08:43 AM
Member
 
intake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: In a van down by the river
Posts: 51
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 15
As of last few versions of Lutron Connect app, Alexa and Google can now control fan modules, Alexa Turn on <device name Fan>, Alexa Set <device name Fan> Speed 1, etc. You will need to go into Alexa section of the Lutron app, and manually add the devices in, then do a device discovery in Alexa app or by voice on Alexa device.

I haven't seen this support extend to HomeKit yet.
intake is offline  
post #2309 of 2336 Old 05-10-2019, 11:18 AM
Member
 
HDTVNYC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New York City
Posts: 117
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
There different ways depending on your equipment to integrate Sonos, but the easiest way it to add a Sonos enable Pico. Otherwise take a look here at how to add Sonos to regular Lutron RR2 Keypads. (Note, these are multi system notes, please make sure you are following for Radio Ra 2)
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...s_App_Note.pdf
All works well with the integration. It's also nice to be able to link scenes to Sonos functionality. I have a setting when leaving the home where all the lights shutoff and audio pauses. Unfortunately they don't specifically call out that the raise/lower buttons are restricted to only volume control when you enable it. On p17 of the guide, once you enable the toggle "enable raise/lower volume control", you can no longer use it to raise/lower any of the lighting loads. Would be helpful if they could get around this limitation.

I think it would also be good if they could figure out how to link with Sonos where the keypad light will be illuminated if music is playing. Going to see if I can get around this limitation using a 3rd party system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
Dimming LED lights, I could write pages. It's the bane of my existence. Buy a good lamp, not the cheapest one. Read before you buy, make sure it says dimmable somewhere. If it has it's own button, you can only switch if from Lutron and operate by it's own control. These are some sort of gimmick lamp or really cheesey cheap import.
Haven't given the plug in dimmers a try with any LED table lamps that use a proprietary illumination, I just assumed they wouldn't work because whatever driver is built-into the lamp doesn't support line side dimming. I've had good success however if the lamp has a normal A19 screw in bulb and changing to LED. Unfortunately a lot of the higher end lights are going the way of using their own built-in LEDs (Flos, Artemide, etc)

Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
I don't know why the Grafik T is on essentials either, but if you can afford them, I can help you with that. They are very $$$$
Really like the look and fortunately I don't have an insane amount of keypads to swap out. A bit on the fence about the keypads though since the amount of buttons is reduced. Bummer that L2 training is to difficult to get to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
I don't know about Hubitat, but read through there help community, see if they are responsive. I know you can likely set up those scenarios through HomeSeer and they have a pretty good foothold in this area already. Hubitat looks to be inexpensive but do they sdeliver at that price?? Please let us know. I think Bill on here might have it?? Can you chime in?
Haven't had a chance to pick one up yet, but planning on it. They've been very responsive with support for Lutron. One item I'm looking forward to is being able to select the dimming based on either daylight level outside or time of day. So when you turn on a room, at nighttime instead of 100% it might only go to 65%. If this works out well, it'll help reduce the amount of buttons needed (Evening, Day vs Room On)
HDTVNYC is offline  
post #2310 of 2336 Old 05-13-2019, 05:00 PM
Senior Member
 
spiwrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 422
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 117 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVNYC View Post
...I think it would also be good if they could figure out how to link with Sonos where the keypad light will be illuminated if music is playing. Going to see if I can get around this limitation using a 3rd party system.
If you are doing this with a regular keypad. You could try adding a dimmer to that button. You could also assign this to a contact on a VCRX if you have an unused one.



Haven't given the plug in dimmers a try with any LED table lamps that use a proprietary illumination, I just assumed they wouldn't work because whatever driver is built-into the lamp doesn't support line side dimming. I've had good success however if the lamp has a normal A19 screw in bulb and changing to LED. Unfortunately a lot of the higher end lights are going the way of using their own built-in LEDs (Flos, Artemide, etc)


Quote:
Haven't had a chance to pick one up yet, but planning on it. They've been very responsive with support for Lutron. One item I'm looking forward to is being able to select the dimming based on either daylight level outside or time of day. So when you turn on a room, at nighttime instead of 100% it might only go to 65%. If this works out well, it'll help reduce the amount of buttons needed (Evening, Day vs Room On)
This is pretty common request. Not sure why it hasn't made it into the software but it hasn't. Exactly why you need these other 3rd party work-arounds.

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply
www.hankselectric.net
FB Page
[email protected]
spiwrx is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Home Automation

Tags
lighting control , wireless switch

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off