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post #2341 of 2372 Old 07-26-2019, 03:01 PM
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Sidetracking...

The dog ate the remote, literally, new puppy thought it was a chew toy. So what remotes are you guys using? I have a relativity simple system, just cable box, Samsung series 6 TV and a Blueray player, I don't care if it works my RR2 or not, we're mainly using Alexa for that. Tried some APP based stuff on my phone but not impressed with how long it takes to open app, establish connection, etc...

Last time I bought a "universal" remote it was a Pronto. I don't need a touch screen and don't really want to spend more then $100, leaning towards some version of the Harmony but asking for recommendations
I use the Harmony companion. Usually $60 or $70 from Best Buy. It is a screen free remote with the hub. Only issue is the buttons are a little small, and the remote itself only has RF, not IR, so you need to make sure the hub (which emits the IR) is properly place or you need extenders. It's sometimes nice to have the 'smart' features like google/alexa integration (they have Caseta, but not RR2), or in a pinch you can pull up the app on your phone when you can't find the remote (kids!). You can program for 1 button use - so watching a DVD you just press a button and it will automatically switch inputs and be set for your DVD remote. Battery life is very good too.
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post #2342 of 2372 Old 07-27-2019, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
Sidetracking...

The dog ate the remote, literally, new puppy thought it was a chew toy. So what remotes are you guys using? I have a relativity simple system, just cable box, Samsung series 6 TV and a Blueray player, I don't care if it works my RR2 or not, we're mainly using Alexa for that. Tried some APP based stuff on my phone but not impressed with how long it takes to open app, establish connection, etc...

Last time I bought a "universal" remote it was a Pronto. I don't need a touch screen and don't really want to spend more then $100, leaning towards some version of the Harmony but asking for recommendations
If you use Apple devices and your devices are all controllable via IP, then Simple Control is great. It can do IR devices as well but you need to buy a $90 blaster for that. It is capable of doing much more, so it can grow with your needs over time. It has a Siri interface but not sure about Alexa. It can also control RA2 lighting, so easy to setup scenes that include both your AV and lights in one button push.
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post #2343 of 2372 Old 07-29-2019, 01:26 PM
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Last time I bought a "universal" remote it was a Pronto. I don't need a touch screen and don't really want to spend more then $100, leaning towards some version of the Harmony but asking for recommendations
Logitech remote with real buttons and hub to connect to Alexa - "Alexa turn on ESPN" "Alexa turn off the TV" etc.

I'm too new to past a url, but go to Amazon and search for B00ZYIFXSM. It's renewed, but <$60.
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post #2344 of 2372 Old 08-23-2019, 10:20 AM
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any of you use or have experience with a simple device to send SMS or Email notification for a switch closure and power failure. I need to monitor a pump and some of the commercial solutions are extremely costly or way over the top for the simple demands here.

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post #2345 of 2372 Old 08-23-2019, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
any of you use or have experience with a simple device to send SMS or Email notification for a switch closure and power failure. I need to monitor a pump and some of the commercial solutions are extremely costly or way over the top for the simple demands here.
Although targeted for sump pumps, the level sense pro would work - it essentially monitors two contact closures, humidity, and temp. You can also get alerts when the device stops communicating with the level sense cloud service, which either means 1) internet is down or 2) power is out. I think its around $200.

I have used one for a year or two to monitor a sump pit in my basement.

https://www.level-sense.com/

-Ray
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post #2346 of 2372 Old 08-23-2019, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by rapamatic View Post
Although targeted for sump pumps, the level sense pro would work - it essentially monitors two contact closures, humidity, and temp. You can also get alerts when the device stops communicating with the level sense cloud service, which either means 1) internet is down or 2) power is out. I think its around $200.

I have used one for a year or two to monitor a sump pit in my basement.

https://www.level-sense.com/

-Ray

Perfect, I knew one of you would come through. Thanks!

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post #2347 of 2372 Old 08-23-2019, 10:58 AM
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Perfect, I knew one of you would come through. Thanks!

Your Homeseer system could also serve as the notification hub, if you can find the right sensors. There should be many options in that regard.
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post #2348 of 2372 Old 08-23-2019, 11:12 AM
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Your Homeseer system could also serve as the notification hub, if you can find the right sensors. There should be many options in that regard.
Not in my home, but I didn't even think of that. I would need some HA enable sensor. This is a great but probably a little complicated for who it is for. The LevelSense above I think will work perfectly and in the budget. Thanks!!

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post #2349 of 2372 Old 08-25-2019, 10:17 AM
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There are lots of sensors for liquid sensing that are Zwave / Zigbee or via the security system integration (like an ELK) that can trigger a message to the automation system.
It's then trivial to send an SMS / email (or both) through a good automation system.
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post #2350 of 2372 Old 08-26-2019, 12:22 PM
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In case you didn't see this in you email, this was just sent by Lutron to System users (Copy & Pasted from their email)

"Note: This update only impacts customers that own or plan to purchase Nest products (thermostats, cameras, CO detectors, etc). If you do not own or plan to own Nest products, your system will not be affected, and you may disregard this email.

Google has recently started inviting Nest customers to switch their Nest accounts to Google accounts. If you use a Lutron App* to work with or control Nest products and you wish to keep doing so, DO NOT CONVERT YOUR NEST ACCOUNT TO A GOOGLE ACCOUNT.

Google is removing the ability for other smart home brands, including Lutron, to work directly with Nest devices. They are unifying their smart home experience under a single platform, Works with Google Assistant. According to Google, they will build Nest functionality into the Google Assistant over time, but we don’t know when or if they will replicate everything Lutron can currently do with Nest.

So, if you wish to continue using features like controlling your Nest thermostat from the Lutron app or having your lights set to come on when your Nest smoke alarm goes off, do not convert your Nest account to a Google account.

Lutron will continue to work with Google during this transition and will provide you with updates to ensure the best Lutron experience for your smart home.

Learn More

Lutron’s Nest FAQs

Google’s Nest Updates

*Lutron systems impacted include Caséta, RA2 Select, RadioRA 2, and HomeWorks"

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post #2351 of 2372 Old 09-16-2019, 01:38 PM
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I was just made aware there is a new RR2 dimmer, called the PRO or LED+ depending on what you are reading. (p/n RRD-PRO-(color)). This is a lower price point phase select-able dimmer (Compare to RRD-6NA) you can use with or without a neutral, but if you need this model, you likely need the neutral connection as well. This means a software update which you may like or hate, but read carefully before upgrading especially if you have integrations:
(Reminder you do not have to update if don't want to, but if you are still building on your system or plan to, I would stay up to date on software)

From the 12.2 release notes:

New in 12.2
New Features
1. Support Maestro LED+ Dimmer: Added support for the new phase selectable Maestro LED+ Dimmer for simpler dimmer specification and installation.
2. Data Privacy Compliance: Removed default credentials, requiring username/password to be manually configured for integration. This is really simple to do, if you haven't poked around in there before. I will write another post with a little tutorial a little later today (after I dl & update my system)
3. Support for 0-10V and Switching PowPak modules in Essentials: These products are now available in both Inclusive and Essentials. ~~~Nice they finally moved this...
4. Remove Support for LHC+ Mobile App: Details are provided to the user of the app for upgrading to the Lutron Connect app which provides an updated user experience without a subscription.
~~~not sure how this will work, but I can't imagine they will force you to buy a connect. Not real clear what "without subscription" really means, I have my thoughts but they are just that current, hopefully more on this soon...


Improvements
1. Fixed an issue where unengraved Grafik T Keypads were ordered with the wrong faceplate.
2. Fixed an issue where MA-T51 and SC-1PS could not be ganged with MSC-600M-MS.
3. System stabilization improvements.
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post #2352 of 2372 Old 09-16-2019, 04:08 PM
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The 12.2 software does not show the default user/password like the previous versions did, so for any integrations you will now have to setup a user and password. They say this is a security concern, I let you decide for yourself how you want to address it but here is what I know and maybe just a reminder to you. I would imagine if you setup a user yourself with the defaults you should be back in business. Here are some reminders on how to:

  • Previous versions 12.1 and earlier, default user and password I believe were "lutron" / "integration" if I'm wrong please someone correct me. Might also try lutron / lutron, default / 1234 or just create your own and update it in whatever you are integrating with.
  • If you haven't already, take a look in the top left menu tabs (all pages) in the RR2 software:
  • File / Tools / Settings / Reports / Help
  • Select Setting and integration
  • In previous versions it said: "default home control + user" and "pre-configured" password
  • In 12.2 there is nothing predefined.
  • Click the + icon at the bottom and create a new login.
Now I'm not going to go click by click you should have it from here, but also see here you can limit what each user can do. In terms of button editing and timeclock schedules. Doubel click on the "Add/ Edit" and you can limit their permissions. Additionally you can hit the ID's tab and limit device you want to show on the APP. Maybe you have a porch light you only ever want on a timeclock, you can remove it from integrations and it won't show up on the APP.
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post #2353 of 2372 Old 09-16-2019, 10:50 PM
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Thanks for posting this update. I saw info about the new dimmer from a distributor, but it wasn't clear to me if it was just a relabeling of the old 6NA. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think all neutral dimmers for RR2 require the neutral (vs optional as mentioned for this new one).

Any idea if any dimmers are being discontinued as a result of this inclusion? I'm finding the 6CL seems to work a bit better than the 6ND, when a NA isn't required.

I think this was a record amount of time for the software without an update!
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post #2354 of 2372 Old 09-17-2019, 09:34 AM
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Remove Support for LHC+ Mobile App: Details are provided to the user of the app for upgrading to the Lutron Connect app which provides an updated user experience without a subscription.
~~~not sure how this will work, but I can't imagine they will force you to buy a connect. Not real clear what "without subscription" really means, I have my thoughts but they are just that current, hopefully more on this soon...
I am curious how this is going to work -- It does sound like the connect is going to be required.
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post #2355 of 2372 Old 09-19-2019, 12:20 PM
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Is this for Inclusive' too?

Do you have to sign in to Lutron.com, download a new program, get code form Lutron to install, etc to upgrade or can you do without logging in?

Thanks.

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
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post #2356 of 2372 Old 09-20-2019, 03:34 AM
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You install the software on top of the old. It retains registration
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post #2357 of 2372 Old 09-30-2019, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
I was just made aware there is a new RR2 dimmer, called the PRO or LED+ depending on what you are reading. (p/n RRD-PRO-(color)). This is a lower price point phase select-able dimmer (Compare to RRD-6NA) you can use with or without a neutral, but if you need this model, you likely need the neutral connection as well.
Is the RRD-PRO available? I don't see it online anywhere.

Louis
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post #2358 of 2372 Old 09-30-2019, 06:01 PM
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Is there someone here that sells Lutron RadioRA2? I need to buy components.

Louis
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post #2359 of 2372 Old 10-01-2019, 03:14 AM
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Spiwrx does. Hanks Electric.
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post #2360 of 2372 Old 10-01-2019, 06:47 PM
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I have tested a RRD-6CL and RRD-6ND dimmer with a number of LED bulbs in combinations from 1 to 6 bulbs, all BR30 65W or 75W spanning from 2700K to 4000K.

The best bulbs with the 6ND are a Philips 2700K warm glow 65W claiming to be a great dimmable LED (it is, but looks even warmer than 2700K to me) and a Maxxima 65W (edit-it's 75W)

Both of those work well with the 6CL, in addition to a great eagle 65W (edit-it's 75W). The great eagle with the 6ND was not nearly as good, flicker at lower light levels I think, but is almost perfect with the 6CL at all but the very lowest light output (hint of flicker there). The Philips and Maxxima may have been slightly better at dimming to low levels with the 6ND but are still definitely usable with the 6CL.

Others inuding TCP, Maxlite, Amazon basics, hyperikon etc all had problems with flicker, buzz, poor dimming behavior or some combination.

Questions:
Is there any compelling reason to use the 6ND over the 6CL? Seems like it should be better with LED's but doesn't really seem to be. This is new construction so have the neutral available everywhere.

Any suggestions on a good higher wattage BR30 bulb? Don't think any of the 75W I tried were really that good. With 12 foot ceilings the extra output would be nice. (Edit, never mind, I lost track in my notes which were 65W and which 75W, turns out two of the better bulbs are 75W).

Anyone have any experience yet with the new pro-led dimmer?

Last edited by Bigus; 10-01-2019 at 08:41 PM.
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post #2361 of 2372 Old 10-01-2019, 07:50 PM
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Any suggestions on a good higher wattage BR30 bulb? Don't think any of the 75W I tried were really that good. With 12 foot ceilings the extra output would be nice.
My office (where I am now) is about 24 x 14 with 10 ft ceiling. White ceiling and tan sidewalls and darker cherry furniture. I have 6 BR30s. My wife would say they are WAY too bright even though they are soft color. Any BR30 x 6 LEDs are very bright in this room. So, depends on the density of lights and colors etc.
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post #2362 of 2372 Old 10-01-2019, 08:31 PM
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Good to know. Largest room with 12' ceiling is probably kitchen at about 23' x 21' with 6 cans but there are a couple of hanging lights over island and breakfast table and worklights over sink so maybe that's fine at 60W. I'd rather have more light available and dial it back but sounds like maybe not a big concern.
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post #2363 of 2372 Old 10-01-2019, 08:41 PM
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Well dang, was just going through my notes and went back to order history to look at cost per bulb and realized both the Maxxima and great eagle bulbs are 75W. That's good. So scratch that last question!
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post #2364 of 2372 Old 10-02-2019, 08:09 AM
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Shade Controller Question

I have LUTRON Shades going in next week. What is the best type of controller to put in the room with the shades? The room has 5 shades and I don't need to control each shade individually. I'd like one button to control 2 shades, another button to control another 2 shades, and a 3rd button to control 1 shade and, perhaps, a 4th button to control all.

What are most using? I have a powered, unused single gang box for this. Have RR2.

Thanks!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
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post #2365 of 2372 Old 10-02-2019, 04:23 PM
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Shade Controller Question

I have LUTRON Shades going in next week. What is the best type of controller to put in the room with the shades? The room has 5 shades and I don't need to control each shade individually. I'd like one button to control 2 shades, another button to control another 2 shades, and a 3rd button to control 1 shade and, perhaps, a 4th button to control all.

What are most using? I have a powered, unused single gang box for this. Have RR2.

Thanks!
What about one of these keypads with multiple buttons, one for each shade plus one for all shades and then an up/down for controlling the individual shades. I haven’t use shades with these keypads, only lights so I don’t know if there are any peculiarities with shade usage. But with lights, you turn one on/off via a keypad to whatever the default setting is and then if you want to modify, you can turn it up/down with the arrows.

http://www.lutron.com/en-US/products.../overview.aspx

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post #2366 of 2372 Old 10-02-2019, 06:46 PM
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For most of my shades I use a single shade toggle button. Press it once, shade starts closing, press it again shade stops, press again shade starts opening, press it again shade stops. I'd suggest one of those buttons for each set of shades, then maybe a preset for all open and/or all closed (if those would be used)...

I don't know your specific use case, but it might be tedious to have to press three different buttons just to open or close all the shades (but maybe that isn't a typical use case).


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post #2367 of 2372 Old 10-03-2019, 10:45 AM
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I've got a question for the experts here:

So I'm helping a friend put a RadioRa2 setup in his house. Basically doing the entire place and for the most part it's pretty straightforward, with the exception of one implementation: He's got a fairly large house and a horse barn out back. When he built it there was a 3-way switch run to a set of lights in some stalls in the horse barn, so he can control them from the horse barn, or the back door of the house. Initially, I thought this would be no problem, just use an 8ANS, with an RD-RS in the barn - problem solved... Until I remembered that the actual switch has to be on the load side. So it would have to have the 8ANS in the barn, and the RD-RS in the house. However, this barn is probably a couple of hundred feet away, so I don't think the ClearConnect signal will reach in even the most optimistic scenario.

Any ideas on how to implement this load in the system?
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post #2368 of 2372 Old 10-03-2019, 12:23 PM
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I've got a question for the experts here:



So I'm helping a friend put a RadioRa2 setup in his house. Basically doing the entire place and for the most part it's pretty straightforward, with the exception of one implementation: He's got a fairly large house and a horse barn out back. When he built it there was a 3-way switch run to a set of lights in some stalls in the horse barn, so he can control them from the horse barn, or the back door of the house. Initially, I thought this would be no problem, just use an 8ANS, with an RD-RS in the barn - problem solved... Until I remembered that the actual switch has to be on the load side. So it would have to have the 8ANS in the barn, and the RD-RS in the house. However, this barn is probably a couple of hundred feet away, so I don't think the ClearConnect signal will reach in even the most optimistic scenario.



Any ideas on how to implement this load in the system?


Can you use a non-neutral dimmer (6D or 10D) for the lighting load in the barn? With those dimmers, the actual dimmer switch does not need to be on the load side...


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post #2369 of 2372 Old 10-03-2019, 01:50 PM
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I admit I'm not an electrician, but in a 3-way switch aren't both sides load bearing? I mean, right now he presumably has 2 dumb switches and they both operate the load.
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post #2370 of 2372 Old 10-03-2019, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeoscar View Post
I admit I'm not an electrician, but in a 3-way switch aren't both sides load bearing? I mean, right now he presumably has 2 dumb switches and they both operate the load.


Unfortunately not, at least according to their wiring schematics.




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