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post #2401 of 2418 Old 12-30-2019, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by thebland View Post
Another RA2 programming question...

I have RA2 software and a house that has a system that uses two main repeaters (I have inclusive). If I want to move a light switch from one room that is on repeater #1 to a new room that is on repeater #2 , can I do that?

Or do I need to delete the switch off of repeater #1 , factory reset it and then add it as a new switch onto the room in repeater #2 ?

Thanks.
From the device tree on the left of the screen you can literally drag and drop a entire room from one repeater to the other, likewise you can drag and drop a single device from the main view to and other room on the same or other repeater.

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post #2402 of 2418 Old 12-30-2019, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
From the device tree on the left of the screen you can literally drag and drop a entire room from one repeater to the other, likewise you can drag and drop a single device from the main view to and other room on the same or other repeater.
Well that’s easy enough. I’m up to 85 devices on one repeater and 25 on the other. Still somethings to add and was going to equal things out a bit. Much appreciated!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
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post #2403 of 2418 Old 12-30-2019, 03:32 PM
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Well that’s easy enough. I’m up to 85 devices on one repeater and 25 on the other. Still somethings to add and was going to equal things out a bit. Much appreciated!
No problem. It was slow today, so here is a quick video showing that:

You could also delete and add it back it, if you save the serial number and activate by serial number you shouldn't have to reset it. But you need to either physically read the serial number on the top/bottom of the device or look in the activation window and record it before you delete it.

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post #2404 of 2418 Old 12-30-2019, 05:03 PM
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Well that’s easy enough. I’m up to 85 devices on one repeater and 25 on the other. Still somethings to add and was going to equal things out a bit. Much appreciated!
Just a reminder on a 2 repeater system. Try and make the split so it's obvious delineation of the home. Between floors as an example but maybe North / South or East / West.
Or pull less essential rooms onto the secondary repeater. At the same time keep in mind you are really bridging two systems and you want to assign and take advantage of the range of each. Almost want to treat them as separate systems in terms of devices, range and mounting. And if you are adding auxiliary repeaters to them as well, make sure they correspond to the main repeater in the programming and in mounting.


Often I'm forced into a second repeater because of shades, and if it makes sense (range) to do so, I just put all the shades on 1 repeater. Around here most of the homes have only one or two adjacent exposures so most of the shades are usually on one side of the home which helps.

With auxiliary repeaters keep in mind you are extending the range of the repeater it is added to and devices associated with it.

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post #2405 of 2418 Old 12-30-2019, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
No problem. It was slow today, so here is a quick video showing that:

You could also delete and add it back it, if you save the serial number and activate by serial number you shouldn't have to reset it. But you need to either physically read the serial number on the top/bottom of the device or look in the activation window and record it before you delete it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38f7...ature=youtu.be
I’m on the road and will look at the video in a bit. . Thanks so much for doing that!

But if I’m understanding, do I need serial numbers if I can drag and drop rooms or devices from one repeater to another? Or only if deleting and re-adding? Can I truly drag and drop to second repeater?

And yes, I have shades all on one (nearby) and have divided up so all devices get good signal from their respective repeater.

Again, thanks so much.

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
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post #2406 of 2418 Old 12-30-2019, 05:29 PM
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...But if I’m understanding, do I need serial numbers if I can drag and drop rooms or devices from one repeater to another? Or only if deleting and re-adding? Can I truly drag and drop to second repeater?.

You only need the serial #'s if you are deleting and adding them back in. Or you have to default them and go through regular activation.

For drag & drop it will carry all the information over, you don't need to do anything unless you also change the device or keypad type.

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post #2407 of 2418 Old 12-30-2019, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
You only need the serial #'s if you are deleting and adding them back in. Or you have to default them and go through regular activation.

For drag & drop it will carry all the information over, you don't need to do anything unless you also change the device or keypad type.
This is all excellent information. Thanks so much! I'm going to further subdivide areas to make them closest to their respective main repeaters and more logically divided. Glad it can be done via a simple drag and drop.

You're a great resource!
Thanks!
Jeff

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
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post #2408 of 2418 Old 12-30-2019, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
You only need the serial #'s if you are deleting and adding them back in. Or you have to default them and go through regular activation.

For drag & drop it will carry all the information over, you don't need to do anything unless you also change the device or keypad type.
Saw the video. Perfectly clear! Thanks so much!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
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post #2409 of 2418 Old 12-31-2019, 07:49 AM
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Hmm.. drag and drop! Thought I tried that but probably goofed it up somehow and assumed that just wasn't possible.
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post #2410 of 2418 Old 01-01-2020, 07:15 AM
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Hmm.. drag and drop! Thought I tried that but probably goofed it up somehow and assumed that just wasn't possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
You only need the serial #'s if you are deleting and adding them back in. Or you have to default them and go through regular activation.

For drag & drop it will carry all the information over, you don't need to do anything unless you also change the device or keypad type.
Yes,,, May not be possible...

I tried dragging a room (and its keypad, dimmer contents) to the second Main repeater in my set up and got an error thatI must reset and reprogram... Is there really a way to truly Drag and Drop without resetting switches to default??

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Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.

Last edited by thebland; 01-01-2020 at 03:31 PM.
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post #2411 of 2418 Old 01-01-2020, 01:58 PM
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Looking for recommendations. I'm want to install under/above cabinet lighting in the kitchen. I need to get to 3 walls, so am thinking instead of ripping out a lot of drywall to run romex to all 3 walls, I can use my Radio Ra2 system and install switches in 3 locations. This would require me just tapping into 120V on each wall, which is do-able. Suggestions on what to use? I'd prefer LED lighting. Do I just throw up some 6CL switches to 120V LED lights? On one wall I will have 1 cabinet of lights connected, so I'm concerned about minimum load on a dimmer/switch. Any recommendations on lights to use?
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post #2412 of 2418 Old 01-02-2020, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebland View Post
Yes,,, May not be possible...

I tried dragging a room (and its keypad, dimmer contents) to the second Main repeater in my set up and got an error thatI must reset and reprogram... Is there really a way to truly Drag and Drop without resetting switches to default??
If the system has already been activated then you have to either do as it says, or a quicker way would be to jot down the serial #'s from the activation screen before changes and you can activate by serial number after the changes. From the Activation tab there should be a table at the bottom of the main screen showing all devices and serial numbers of those that were activated.

I encourage you to save a backup of your job file so you can revert to it, if your change don't go smoothly.

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post #2413 of 2418 Old 01-02-2020, 09:02 AM
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Looking for recommendations. I'm want to install under/above cabinet lighting in the kitchen. I need to get to 3 walls, so am thinking instead of ripping out a lot of drywall to run romex to all 3 walls, I can use my Radio Ra2 system and install switches in 3 locations. This would require me just tapping into 120V on each wall, which is do-able. Suggestions on what to use? I'd prefer LED lighting. Do I just throw up some 6CL switches to 120V LED lights? On one wall I will have 1 cabinet of lights connected, so I'm concerned about minimum load on a dimmer/switch. Any recommendations on lights to use?
Chances are you will at least be considering some low voltage options which typically have a remote driver/transformer. These work great on the plug-in dimmers which have a really low minimum wattage.
If you want a wall dimmer consider the newer 6ND dimmer. Has a lower minimum. But if you get to just a few watts you may need the PRO dimmer.

If this is all you are doing you may also want to consider the Radio Ra Select or Caseta. Full Radio Ra 2 is meant for whole home, the other two are meant for smaller projects. Unless you need a reason to jump in I might consider the Select at least gives you an upgrade path to full Radio Ra 2. If you are expanding on a system or planning for the future then Radio Ra 2.

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post #2414 of 2418 Old 01-04-2020, 08:53 AM
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Yes,,, May not be possible...

I tried dragging a room (and its keypad, dimmer contents) to the second Main repeater in my set up and got an error thatI must reset and reprogram... Is there really a way to truly Drag and Drop without resetting switches to default??

OK. Good info. I'll give it a go with a singe device and see the process for such.

Thanks!

Goodbye to a great audio and video genius and writer... JOHN GANNON. I enjoyed your friendship, wit and a nice long run we took around Indianapolis at CEDIA years back... and for buying my Runco 980 Ultra years back... you saved my ass! Rest in peace.
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post #2415 of 2418 Old 01-06-2020, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
Chances are you will at least be considering some low voltage options which typically have a remote driver/transformer. These work great on the plug-in dimmers which have a really low minimum wattage.
If you want a wall dimmer consider the newer 6ND dimmer. Has a lower minimum. But if you get to just a few watts you may need the PRO dimmer.

If this is all you are doing you may also want to consider the Radio Ra Select or Caseta. Full Radio Ra 2 is meant for whole home, the other two are meant for smaller projects. Unless you need a reason to jump in I might consider the Select at least gives you an upgrade path to full Radio Ra 2. If you are expanding on a system or planning for the future then Radio Ra 2.
Thanks Paul. I have a Ra2 system already in the house (it is awesome), but haven’t kept up with the newer switches. I last added a few 6CL switches that I got from you/Hanks Electrical supply. I’m contemplating using some Halo HU30 lights which are 11W each and I’ll have at least 2 per switch, so 22W. I should be able to dim these if needed from a 6ND. I’m thinking 3 6ND switches (One for each set of cabinets/walls to avoid running romex across walls). I would hide the 6ND switches in the wall above the cabinets then use something like a Pico remote for control. I already have a occupancy sensor in the kitchen which I might also tie the lights into.
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post #2416 of 2418 Old 01-07-2020, 08:11 AM
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Thanks Paul. I have a Ra2 system already in the house (it is awesome), but haven’t kept up with the newer switches. I last added a few 6CL switches that I got from you/Hanks Electrical supply. I’m contemplating using some Halo HU30 lights which are 11W each and I’ll have at least 2 per switch, so 22W. I should be able to dim these if needed from a 6ND. I’m thinking 3 6ND switches (One for each set of cabinets/walls to avoid running romex across walls). I would hide the 6ND switches in the wall above the cabinets then use something like a Pico remote for control. I already have a occupancy sensor in the kitchen which I might also tie the lights into.

Looks like for best results you need an ELV dimmer (Maestro is similar/same to RR2) for this light (check here) which today translates to newer RRD-PRO dimmer if you software is up to date, otherwise use the RRD-6NA. Either one you'll want to go into advanced setting and adjust to reverse phase.

Either will work fine with the sensor and/or pico.

The PRO & 6NA with connected neutral will give you about 5-10watt minimum. The 6ND is not specifically published but should have a similar minimum.
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post #2417 of 2418 Old Yesterday, 09:07 AM
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Lutron just announced the RRD-6CL and RRD-6NA will be discontinued in March and replaced by RRD-6ND and RRD-PRO.
This is good because t reduces the number of SKU's and reduces complications of having so many different dimmers. Additionally the PRO is cheaper than the 6NA it replaces.
The 6ND thus far has been great bu requires a neutral. For most this hasn't been an issue. However, if you have a non-Neutral dimmer location now you will have to use the PRO, which cost more than the 6CL.
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post #2418 of 2418 Old Today, 04:13 AM
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Interesting. I haven’t installed many PROs yet, but the 6CL seemed to work better than the 6ND to me. What has your experience been?
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