Hunter Douglas PowerView shades & blinds - Page 5 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #121 of 195 Old 02-23-2017, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
And barring the existence of ANY means to show the signal levels it's all voodoo and folklore. Seriously, where's the diag tools to better configure this junk?

Were it not for needing top-down functionality I would NEVER have gone with Hunter Douglas.

When it works it's merely just 'ok'. The motors are a bit louder than I'd like but not a big deal. Battery life seems reasonable, about 18 months when on a daily schedule. But random drop-outs where a shade just decides it "doesn't want to cooperate" are maddeningly annoying. And having NO DEBUGGING TOOLS makes it pretty much impossible to narrow down why.
If you think power view is buggy crap, tell me about platinum power rise it is pain in down there some where, not in the neck lol
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post #122 of 195 Old 02-24-2017, 10:26 AM
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Did any one try to convert their power rise blinds to power view?
No need to. I can show you how to automate the power rise easily. That's what I did, and it's super reliable.

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post #123 of 195 Old 03-05-2017, 11:48 AM
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No need to. I can show you how to automate the power rise easily. That's what I did, and it's super reliable.
Thanks Jason, would you mind kindly pm me details?
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post #124 of 195 Old 03-04-2018, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
I've got 15 of the new PowerView shades, in four rooms. It's a newly built house (no old materials or RF-blocking lead paint). It's 3 stories, including basement, with a mostly open floorplan.

The mesh RF setup is uneven, at best. But then I'm only a few days into owning them. I expected a bit of rearranging was going to be necessary. The hub (their RF-to-ethernet bridge) had to be moved up to the Master Bedroom (along with a Tivo, wired Chromecast, Amazon FireTV and other gear). I've got their repeaters in the other rooms. The repeaters are positioned such that they're in-between the shades for that room and the hub. As in, upstairs shades -> hub -> repeater -> 1st floor shades.

The initial experience is, to be kind, uneven. If I use the PowerView remote (the pebble) to manually join the shades to it that seemed to work. But in the master bedroom one of them has decided not to answer to the remote. Likewise, two of the five in the living room don't seem to want to respond consistently.

The app on iOS is not great. For one, it has NO SECURITY AT ALL. Nor does it have a non-editing mode. Right, so anyone with access to my WiFi network has the ability to do ANYTHING to the setup of the hub! Who the Hell thought this was a good idea? Ok, so that's BAD. But to make things worse, there's no read-only mode. So I can't put the app on anything accessible to anyone else in the house. At least not without risking someone accidentally making unintended changes to the configuration.

There's also no technical information accessible for troubleshooting. No way to tell the strength a given device has to the RF network. So placement of the hubs and repeaters is pretty much blind hit-and-miss guesswork.

I was considering purchasing quite a number of HD Powerview honeycomb but this thread has really caused me major concern regarding their reliability.

Can anyone comment if the HD Powerview shades have improved in reliability since the last posting, approximately a year ago?

Thanks for any input!

John

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post #125 of 195 Old 03-04-2018, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John1948 View Post
I was considering purchasing quite a number of HD Powerview honeycomb but this thread has really caused me major concern regarding their reliability.

Can anyone comment if the HD Powerview shades have improved in reliability since the last posting, approximately a year ago?

Thanks for any input!

John
Mine work great! Have been controlling them from my Iphone with X10 for over 4 years now I think.

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post #126 of 195 Old 03-05-2018, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John1948 View Post
I was considering purchasing quite a number of HD Powerview honeycomb but this thread has really caused me major concern regarding their reliability.

Can anyone comment if the HD Powerview shades have improved in reliability since the last posting, approximately a year ago?

Thanks for any input!

John
The PowerView shades have been under constant revision and improvement since their inception. Hunter just released a new updated Hub.
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post #127 of 195 Old 03-05-2018, 06:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John1948 View Post
I was considering purchasing quite a number of HD Powerview honeycomb but this thread has really caused me major concern regarding their reliability.

Can anyone comment if the HD Powerview shades have improved in reliability since the last posting, approximately a year ago?
The mechanisms have held up well, no problems. Battery life continues to be around two years+. I saw elsewhere there's new version of the hub. My dealer provided me with one but I've yet to re-do all the shade and remote pairings.

If I hadn't needed top/down motion (not just the usual bottom/up kind) I would have gone with Lutron shades instead. I have their lighting and their RF coverage is PERFECT. But since they only make bottom/up shades I had to shop elsewhere. If you're good with bottom/up shade motion and Lutron's range of colors and options works for you then I'd strongly recommend you consider them instead.
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post #128 of 195 Old 03-10-2018, 06:03 AM
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Are these shades wireless or hard wired?

Hard to imagine these issues if hard wired (I hope).

I salute our Immersion professionals: Curt Hoyt to which I am very thankful for positioning my JBL loudspeakers correctly to achieve a very tight bubble and the greatly missed Peter CINERAMAX whose fearless R&D in PRO-RIBBON cinemas, curation of most immersive Kaleidescape scripts and forging ahead to 55 loudspeaker Crystal Led Cinemas will pave the road ahead. And Adam Pelz for bringing the system to jawdropping life!
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post #129 of 195 Old 03-10-2018, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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They're wireless. Hard wired presents a whole different range of complications/expense. And I think they're still likely to use wireless for control, the wire being more for powering the motors.
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post #130 of 195 Old 03-10-2018, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
They're wireless. Hard wired presents a whole different range of complications/expense. And I think they're still likely to use wireless for control, the wire being more for powering the motors.
Actually, it’s just the opposite. Hard wired shades all wire to a central module rather than relying on the wireless signal from each and every shade that may or may not drop off the network.

But I get it. If it’s not new construction, wireless is likely the best if not only option.

We’re in new construction, so will hard wire the shades.

I salute our Immersion professionals: Curt Hoyt to which I am very thankful for positioning my JBL loudspeakers correctly to achieve a very tight bubble and the greatly missed Peter CINERAMAX whose fearless R&D in PRO-RIBBON cinemas, curation of most immersive Kaleidescape scripts and forging ahead to 55 loudspeaker Crystal Led Cinemas will pave the road ahead. And Adam Pelz for bringing the system to jawdropping life!
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post #131 of 195 Old 03-10-2018, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Actually, it’s just the opposite. Hard wired shades all wire to a central module rather than relying on the wireless signal from each and every shade that may or may not drop off the network.

But I get it. If it’s not new construction, wireless is likely the best if not only option.

We’re in new construction, so will hard wire the shades.
Well, make sure your builder understands this. And your drywallers. And your window installers. And that the framing is such that there's room to accommodate the wires. And that you don't violate your new window warranty by drilling holes in the jambs. Oh, and good luck trying to use tricks like leaving wires "somewhere nearby" if the walls are going to be spray foam insulated.
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post #132 of 195 Old 03-11-2018, 08:05 AM
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Well, make sure your builder understands this. And your drywallers. And your window installers. And that the framing is such that there's room to accommodate the wires. And that you don't violate your new window warranty by drilling holes in the jambs. Oh, and good luck trying to use tricks like leaving wires "somewhere nearby" if the walls are going to be spray foam insulated.
Not an issue at all. Window contacts as well are going to be hard wired. We have a quote from one low voltage company and another local guy I’ve talked to both recommend such as well. It’s the typical way of installing in our area for new construction. I’m not sure where you’re getting your info, but hard wiring is always the preferred method be it from Lutron or the local installers. I believe the hard wired shades are far less bulky and esthetically pleasing them the wireless, battery models. Regarding the windows, no way my wife would allow stick-on window sensors on the gorgeous windows !

Also, the windows are installed now and electrical and low voltage will be done (obviously) prior to insulation and drywalling. So, windows and wiring for shades will already be in place prior to insulation and drywall.

It could be more regional where you're at but most new construction here is all hardwired (security, shades, etc). That said, most windows that will require shades do not open.

I salute our Immersion professionals: Curt Hoyt to which I am very thankful for positioning my JBL loudspeakers correctly to achieve a very tight bubble and the greatly missed Peter CINERAMAX whose fearless R&D in PRO-RIBBON cinemas, curation of most immersive Kaleidescape scripts and forging ahead to 55 loudspeaker Crystal Led Cinemas will pave the road ahead. And Adam Pelz for bringing the system to jawdropping life!

Last edited by thebland; 03-11-2018 at 08:25 AM.
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post #133 of 195 Old 03-11-2018, 09:14 AM - Thread Starter
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You may have missed my points.

Insulation is a factor. Spray foam insulation is great for energy savings. It's hell for wiring though.

Likewise, framing structure can be a factor. King studs, or even triple studs make for a challenge. Especially if the framed opening is very close to the window casing dimensions. Doesn't leave much room for wire.

Lastly, many window makers have very specific warranty limitations if you start drilling holes through things.

I don't disagree that hard-wiring for power is definitely advantageous. But not all circumstances make it practical, even during new construction. It's critical to have coordinated efforts between the contractor doing the BLINDS and the builder.
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post #134 of 195 Old 03-11-2018, 11:03 AM
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wkearney99, All of what you say is accurate, but it's all part of normal building obstacles. Every trade understands. If you hire a good team, then they respect each other's work (ie: the drywaller knows not to cut wires).

The framing openings et al are business as usual.

Inadvertent cutting of wires is the largest issue. Good routing and metal plates where wires are close to drywall screw depth is standard good practice.

Coordination of trades is sometimes challenging but what a good General Contractor does all day long.

Spray foam - another normal deal. The issue is removing a wire once spray foamed. And getting wires through it. That's why we overwire during new construction to minimize the need to do it again later.
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post #135 of 195 Old 03-11-2018, 12:13 PM - Thread Starter
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well, reality often proves otherwise. sales pitches notwithstanding.
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post #136 of 195 Old 03-11-2018, 02:02 PM
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well, reality often proves otherwise. sales pitches notwithstanding.
Every day reality.
How many wired security systems do you think are installed daily?
Wired blinds?

Hundreds per day, I am sure.

Nothing you mentioned is non-typical things to deal with.

Not quite sure what the question is...
If your statement is use wireless - ok, when one can't wire. Glad it's working for you.
If your statement is be careful if you wire - yes, got that.
Batteries? yuk. Only if no other options other than manual.
Solar? a little clunky, but maybe better than getting out a ladder every few months replacing some blind's battery. But the nicads will always have a limited life.
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post #137 of 195 Old 03-11-2018, 03:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I've been seeing two+ years for batteries. Seems pretty reasonable, windows get cleaned more often than that, so adding a step to change them out is pretty trivial. These being regular alkaline cells, not nicads.

I get it, you want to sell other things. That's fine. I'm thinking you've about added all the pitch this thread needs, right?
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post #138 of 195 Old 03-11-2018, 04:58 PM
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"I get it, you want to sell other things. That's fine. I'm thinking you've about added all the pitch this thread needs, right?"
?? What is being pitched here? BTW, our system supports wireless and wired products so from a professional perspective, unbiased other than to provide support with best strategies (ie: wired if new construction).

the nicad was just extrapolating on the solar tidbit.

The problem with batteries is that they don't all go bad at the same time. Kinda like light bulbs. So it's a constant issue - not every two years. If you have multiple blinds it will be semi-monthly one of them will be going out. For lights, I tend to replace all the high ones at one time when the ladder is already up and extended. Even when they are still working. Blinds might be the same way.
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post #139 of 195 Old 08-05-2018, 08:36 AM
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Hi

I was wonering if someone can tell me if the HD pebble remote uses rf frequency to communicate with the shade ( and if so is it the usual 433 mHz) or is BLE transmission between the remote and the shade?

Thanks
Joe
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post #140 of 195 Old 08-05-2018, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by benmargolin View Post
An update of my last post -- I received my blinds on Friday and got to play with a couple of them this weekend.

First one up -- fail. As soon as I applied power and tried the manual button, it dropped straight to the floor! Had jerky motion, etc. Took it down, examined it, seemed like something wasn't adjusted properly, but decided to try another one from the same shipping box and see if it was similar. Second one -- much larger one -- worked perfectly. The remote even said in small print on the back "platinum" so I was pretty certain it'd be compatible with the HD stuff. Anyhow, got it programmed to RF, and then the real test -- trying it with the HD wall switch I bought off ebay. Worked perfectly first try (oh man, way easier to program than the Somfy-based shades I have, too!). Anyhow, final step -- will it work with the PowerView Hub I also, very optimistically, bought on ebay? And it absolutely does, although in the app, it thinks it's a different kind of shade (a bottom-up, not top-down). So maybe the motor is sending the wrong code for what it is, but doesn't matter, as it works fine.

Then I went back to the original one that wasn't working, and disassembled the mechanism a bit, and noticed some metal flashing inside the motor coupling that seemed to be in the way. I scraped that out, got it all back together, and, although I'm not 100% confident it's a longterm perfect fix, it IS completely working now.

So, did blinds.com contract to get the old tech from HD (or whomever made it for them)? Seems so. Are they a reputable company? Also seems so. Do they advertise it as being HD compatible? Not at all, and maybe future ones won't be. But for now, I'm pretty happy... will report again after I get all 6 that I ordered installed, I guess, and can tell if I have signal strength problems etc.
Hi Benjamin:

Im in the same situation. I bought the powerview hub 1st gen on ebay. But the app cant find the shades.

How did you make it work?

Thanks,
Fernando
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post #141 of 195 Old 08-06-2018, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jjsmd View Post
Hi

I was wonering if someone can tell me if the HD pebble remote uses rf frequency to communicate with the shade ( and if so is it the usual 433 mHz) or is BLE transmission between the remote and the shade?

Thanks
Joe
Yes, it is RF, but I don't know the frequency.
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post #142 of 195 Old 08-17-2018, 09:48 PM
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Hi Benjamin:

Im in the same situation. I bought the powerview hub 1st gen on ebay. But the app cant find the shades.

How did you make it work?

Thanks,
Fernando
did you try this?

youtube.com/watch?v=-014MWE22oE
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post #143 of 195 Old 10-29-2018, 01:28 PM
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fwiw, i measured the current drain of the powerview remote thingy (white, round, 2" diameter, model 1010512198, takes 2 CR2032 cells) when it's doing nothing; it's approx 150uA. Since the CR2032 is rated at 225mAh, you can expect about 1500 hours of shelf life, which is just 2 months. That explains why it didn't last one season! A good circuit designer would have done much better.
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post #144 of 195 Old 10-30-2018, 05:53 PM
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fwiw, i measured the current drain of the powerview remote thingy (white, round, 2" diameter, model 1010512198, takes 2 CR2032 cells) when it's doing nothing; it's approx 150uA. Since the CR2032 is rated at 225mAh, you can expect about 1500 hours of shelf life, which is just 2 months. That explains why it didn't last one season! A good circuit designer would have done much better.
The accelerometer also causes drain. It turns the thing on and all the lights when it is moved. That feature can be turned off and on by holding the 6 button down until the lights flash.
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post #145 of 195 Old 12-01-2018, 08:45 AM
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Pebble not going into programming mode

Hi, I'm trying to set the lower limit of my roller shades, but I can't get into programming mode on my pebble. When I hold down the stop button, backlit slow pulses. But as soon as I let go, it goes back into standard mode. I've tried holding it down 4, 6, 12 seconds. Has anyone encountered this?
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post #146 of 195 Old 01-03-2019, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jasonn B View Post
No need to. I can show you how to automate the power rise easily. That's what I did, and it's super reliable.
Can you please share how you did automate your Powerrise? Many tx!
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post #147 of 195 Old 01-03-2019, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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The newest hub has no serial port, is it possible to continue using an older hub in conjunction with the new one? As in, just use the old hub for the serial control?
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post #148 of 195 Old 01-03-2019, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasonn B View Post
No need to. I can show you how to automate the power rise easily. That's what I did, and it's super reliable.
Can you please share how you did automate your Powerrise? Many tx!
See attached. Then plug that into an X10 controllable outlet and boom. Done!
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80" Vizio LED - (60" Vizio plasma - retired)
Harmony 890 Remote
X10 Commander Iphone App = full control of lights, fireplace, pool, shades, from Iphone
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Hunter Douglas motorized shades

 

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post #149 of 195 Old 01-07-2019, 01:31 PM
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I have five 57” wide x 80” high PowerView Silhoutte a deuxs which is two motors per shade a silhoutte in front and a darkening g shade in the back. I also have a smaller Silhoutte a deux In my kitchen as well a Lumenette on my 3 paine sliding glass door. The batteries do not last 2 years, maybe 6 months because we raise and lower the more than once a day. Our lumenette is not battery powered like all of the others it is hardwired. We do not use the pebbles because everything is connected to Alexa as well as our Lutron Caseta light switches. We also have the Gen2 hub which is much more reliable and has better range than the Gen1 hub. The PowerView app is extremely reliable and issues are rare. at least for us We also live in a condo with 69 other units so there are 69 other WiFi networks just in our building alone that does not include the two other two condo building one being on our right and the other on our left.

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post #150 of 195 Old 01-09-2019, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
I've been seeing two+ years for batteries. Seems pretty reasonable, windows get cleaned more often than that, so adding a step to change them out is pretty trivial. These being regular alkaline cells, not nicads.

I get it, you want to sell other things. That's fine. I'm thinking you've about added all the pitch this thread needs, right?
I'm sorry but folks are trying to help you and your not listening. You want to prove your path is the right one and you came to this thread because it was'nt working. Windows can just about always be wired for shades. Usually inside mount or at minimum outside mount. There are very very few windows that a security wire can't be implemented. As long as your on the right side of the seal and not compromising structural integrity your wire is good to go. I've wired literally thousands of windows and doors. I've wired hundreds of window shades.

People want to help but you'll have to realize someone might know more than you about it.
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