Have lights turn on and off based on what room youre in? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 1Likes
  • 1 Post By FlyingDiver
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 17 Old 03-03-2016, 03:46 PM - Thread Starter
-J-
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: California
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Have lights turn on and off based on what room youre in?

I was wondering if there was a way with home automation (self-installed) to have lights turn on and off based on what room youre in? I saw somewhere there was a door open/close sensor but wouldnt that cause issues if there are multiple people going in and out, and for people who like to leave doors open when in a room then close when leaving. So i was wondering if anyone knows of a system that fixes that issue through use of motion sensors or maybe even able to determine what room a phone is in to determine what is turned on and off? Ideally i would like to never have to use a phone or switch to control lights again. I just walk around and the lights are all automated. Also if it helps i have about 20 light switches in my house.
-J- is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 Old 03-03-2016, 03:53 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
golfster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 1,920
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 791 Post(s)
Liked: 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by -J- View Post
I was wondering if there was a way with home automation (self-installed) to have lights turn on and off based on what room youre in? I saw somewhere there was a door open/close sensor but wouldnt that cause issues if there are multiple people going in and out, and for people who like to leave doors open when in a room then close when leaving. So i was wondering if anyone knows of a system that fixes that issue through use of motion sensors or maybe even able to determine what room a phone is in to determine what is turned on and off? Ideally i would like to never have to use a phone or switch to control lights again. I just walk around and the lights are all automated. Also if it helps i have about 20 light switches in my house.
I have motion detectors in a few rooms. When you enter the room, the lights turn on. You can set them to send an off command after a certain amount of time that there is no movement in the room. As long as you are moving in the room, the lights stay on. When you leave the room, the lights turn off after the designated delay.
golfster is offline  
post #3 of 17 Old 03-03-2016, 04:18 PM
Advanced Member
 
FlyingDiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 646
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 241 Post(s)
Liked: 71
Lutron has occupancy sensors specifically for this function. See their Caseta line.

But I think it's a pipe dream to never touch a switch (or phone app) again. How are you going to turn off the lights in the bedroom when you want to go to sleep?
cabledawg likes this.
FlyingDiver is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 17 Old 03-04-2016, 05:25 PM
Member
 
xs10shl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 137
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 62 Post(s)
Liked: 35
I've played with this for a few years using a combination of "time of day" settings, with motion sensors as the trigger. For things like hallways it works OK, because there's generally one setting (full lights on), and it tends to be a space you move through, as opposed to linger. For rooms, It's not optimal, because motion sensors cant account well for situations where you might be in the room, but being still - like sitting on the couch watching TV.

One solution to really solve the problem is to have everyone in the house wear an RFID, and then have your lighting system tailor the lighting based on recorded location, and who is in the room. Or set up some sort of Kinect in affected rooms.
xs10shl is online now  
post #5 of 17 Old 03-06-2016, 11:31 AM - Thread Starter
-J-
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: California
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingDiver View Post
Lutron has occupancy sensors specifically for this function. See their Caseta line.

But I think it's a pipe dream to never touch a switch (or phone app) again. How are you going to turn off the lights in the bedroom when you want to go to sleep?
If you go to bed around the same time everyday you just have all the lights turn off at say 10 pm. Ill look into lutron.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
-J- is offline  
post #6 of 17 Old 03-06-2016, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
-J-
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: California
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by xs10shl View Post
I've played with this for a few years using a combination of "time of day" settings, with motion sensors as the trigger. For things like hallways it works OK, because there's generally one setting (full lights on), and it tends to be a space you move through, as opposed to linger. For rooms, It's not optimal, because motion sensors cant account well for situations where you might be in the room, but being still - like sitting on the couch watching TV.

One solution to really solve the problem is to have everyone in the house wear an RFID, and then have your lighting system tailor the lighting based on recorded location, and who is in the room. Or set up some sort of Kinect in affected rooms.
Thats kind of what i was looking for. I was thinking of tracking phone via wifi/bluetooth but it wont be most accurate. An possible idea is to add RFID to a smartwatch since alot more people have them and wear them around now.

As for kinect, maybe instead use something like a security camera which can detect thermal so it can detect a persons presence during specific hours lights stay on? But then theres the privacy issue of cameras in every room, especially with the small chance of bedroom camera being hacked. So it would need some good security.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
-J- is offline  
post #7 of 17 Old 03-07-2016, 05:06 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 1
I've added PIR sensors around the house for this. The events are active 15 minutes before sunset, 15 minutes after sunrise, or any time the light level of the room is too low (the level comes from the same sensor). I use Aeon MultiSensor 6s, with the recess mount kit, and they work great. My programming has the "on" interval increase based on the amount of activity in the area.
HoustonOkie is offline  
post #8 of 17 Old 03-08-2016, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
-J-
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: California
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonOkie View Post
I've added PIR sensors around the house for this. The events are active 15 minutes before sunset, 15 minutes after sunrise, or any time the light level of the room is too low (the level comes from the same sensor). I use Aeon MultiSensor 6s, with the recess mount kit, and they work great. My programming has the "on" interval increase based on the amount of activity in the area.
So you have set only to turn on at night or for example a cloudy day when light from windows wont be enough?

How well does it work with animals around? I got a room with 3 small dogs and a cat that roams around.

Also what hub and app do you use to control everything?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
-J- is offline  
post #9 of 17 Old 03-08-2016, 05:19 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 1
@-J- :

The layout of my house, with a large central section for entertaining, requires a bit of a trek to get from the master bedroom to the den or other bedrooms. I set up the lights in the transit section of the house to come on to 10% (LEDs on dimmers) from 15 minutes before sunset, until midnight. When someone walks within one of the PIRs in those areas, the lights will go up in the subsection to 65% - the activity also increments a counter for the area. I have the counters decrementing on a timer. The counter value determines how long the subsection will stay at 65% before going back to "ambient". After midnight it works pretty much the same way, except the baseline level is 0%, instead of 10%. If the dimmer value has been manually set (at the switch or app) to anything other than the 65% or baseline value, the light level is left alone.

15 minutes after sunrise, I've set it to attenuate the room lights based on PIR activity in the room if the lux reading from the MultiSensors drops too low. I haven't done anything real sophisticated with it, though, as I don't try to only put enough light into the room to hit a lux target level. You definitely could, but I'm pretty content with the results I have.

As for animals, I have a couple small dogs, and I've adjusted the sensitivity of my PIRs to not register them (most Z-Wave PIRs will let you do this either with programming or with a jumper).

I use a HomeTroller Zee S2.
HoustonOkie is offline  
post #10 of 17 Old 03-08-2016, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
-J-
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: California
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonOkie View Post
@-J- :

The layout of my house, with a large central section for entertaining, requires a bit of a trek to get from the master bedroom to the den or other bedrooms. I set up the lights in the transit section of the house to come on to 10% (LEDs on dimmers) from 15 minutes before sunset, until midnight. When someone walks within one of the PIRs in those areas, the lights will go up in the subsection to 65% - the activity also increments a counter for the area. I have the counters decrementing on a timer. The counter value determines how long the subsection will stay at 65% before going back to "ambient". After midnight it works pretty much the same way, except the baseline level is 0%, instead of 10%. If the dimmer value has been manually set (at the switch or app) to anything other than the 65% or baseline value, the light level is left alone.

15 minutes after sunrise, I've set it to attenuate the room lights based on PIR activity in the room if the lux reading from the MultiSensors drops too low. I haven't done anything real sophisticated with it, though, as I don't try to only put enough light into the room to hit a lux target level. You definitely could, but I'm pretty content with the results I have.

As for animals, I have a couple small dogs, and I've adjusted the sensitivity of my PIRs to not register them (most Z-Wave PIRs will let you do this either with programming or with a jumper).

I use a HomeTroller Zee S2.
Alright thanks alot! Now a slightly off topic question. The only fan controller i can find that connects directly to the fan and not just a wall switch which i need for my room is insteon. Would i be able to use the zwave pir and the insteon fan controller with the hometroller hub, or does only allow me to use one type such as zwave at a time?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
-J- is offline  
post #11 of 17 Old 03-08-2016, 08:12 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 1
@-J-

I have wall switch Z-Wave controllers, in part because I couldn't find a Z-Wave on-fan controller like the Insteon. Unfortunately, the HomeTroller Zee S2 does not support Insteon, but that's mostly due to the nerfed copy of HS3 on the device (there's a reason why the whole thing costs less than a seat of HS3). If you need Insteon capability, you can get it (along with basically any other type of HA hardware compatibility) with a full copy of HS3. HS3 and HS3 Pro go on sale pretty frequently - sometimes for as much as 50% off. Alternatively (and as a real PITA), you can get a Z-Wave controller that does support Insteon (like a used Vera, or something), and make it a secondary controller to the Zee S2. Neither one of those solutions is pain-free.

If you want a Z-Wave-only solution, and you don't care about attenuating the fan's speed (and only want to control the light and fan separately), you can do so with Z-Wave microswitches.
HoustonOkie is offline  
post #12 of 17 Old 03-08-2016, 08:23 PM - Thread Starter
-J-
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: California
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonOkie View Post
@-J-

I have wall switch Z-Wave controllers, in part because I couldn't find a Z-Wave on-fan controller like the Insteon. Unfortunately, the HomeTroller Zee S2 does not support Insteon, but that's mostly due to the nerfed copy of HS3 on the device (there's a reason why the whole thing costs less than a seat of HS3). If you need Insteon capability, you can get it (along with basically any other type of HA hardware compatibility) with a full copy of HS3. HS3 and HS3 Pro go on sale pretty frequently - sometimes for as much as 50% off. Alternatively (and as a real PITA), you can get a Z-Wave controller that does support Insteon (like a used Vera, or something), and make it a secondary controller to the Zee S2. Neither one of those solutions is pain-free.

If you want a Z-Wave-only solution, and you don't care about attenuating the fan's speed (and only want to control the light and fan separately), you can do so with Z-Wave microswitches.
Okay so to do insteon also it would be alot more expensive and harder to setup basically?

With the microcontroller can i install it directly to the fan and hide it in the base? I keep my fan one on speed and on off for the fan and light independently would be enough for me

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
-J- is offline  
post #13 of 17 Old 03-08-2016, 10:20 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 1
The microswitches that I use are about 2"x2"x.75". You should be able to fit a couple in the ceiling junction box, or you can alternatively have them in the space where a wireless fan controller would normally slide into the fan assembly. I wired up an outdoor fan with two microswitches. I did not run power and load lines down the wall, and instead wired the fan motor and light into separate microswitches. There wasn't a good place for switches outside, and it didn't make much sense to have them on an interior wall, so they're just controlled by Z-Wave.
HoustonOkie is offline  
post #14 of 17 Old 03-08-2016, 10:55 PM - Thread Starter
-J-
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: California
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonOkie View Post
The microswitches that I use are about 2"x2"x.75". You should be able to fit a couple in the ceiling junction box, or you can alternatively have them in the space where a wireless fan controller would normally slide into the fan assembly. I wired up an outdoor fan with two microswitches. I did not run power and load lines down the wall, and instead wired the fan motor and light into separate microswitches. There wasn't a good place for switches outside, and it didn't make much sense to have them on an interior wall, so they're just controlled by Z-Wave.
Okay then that should work with what i have. Thanks for the help. Now only thing im missing is to find a doorbell with a camera. And i realized today that my alarm company who installed new door locks installed kwikset zwave locks so i should be able to set them up on a new hub and save a few pennies.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
-J- is offline  
post #15 of 17 Old 03-08-2016, 11:13 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by -J- View Post
Okay then that should work with what i have. Thanks for the help. Now only thing im missing is to find a doorbell with a camera. And i realized today that my alarm company who installed new door locks installed kwikset zwave locks so i should be able to set them up on a new hub and save a few pennies.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
I have several IP cameras around the property, including two on the front door, and one on the side door. I use Blue Iris to aggregate the feeds, and it integrates pretty well into most HA systems. The Z-Wave PIRs trigger alarms in Blue Iris, which is useful. Aside from that, you can take your existing doorbells (I have one for the side, and one for the front) and place DWZWAVE2-ECO ($25) and a JQC-3FT73 relay ($1) into the chime box. Anytime someone rings the doorbell, it will fire a Z-Wave event. You can have that drive Blue Iris to text you a still, email you a video clip, or just prompt you to open the Blue Iris mobile app and talk with the person at the door (and see real-time video).
HoustonOkie is offline  
post #16 of 17 Old 03-08-2016, 11:44 PM - Thread Starter
-J-
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: California
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonOkie View Post
I have several IP cameras around the property, including two on the front door, and one on the side door. I use Blue Iris to aggregate the feeds, and it integrates pretty well into most HA systems. The Z-Wave PIRs trigger alarms in Blue Iris, which is useful. Aside from that, you can take your existing doorbells (I have one for the side, and one for the front) and place DWZWAVE2-ECO ($25) and a JQC-3FT73 relay ($1) into the chime box. Anytime someone rings the doorbell, it will fire a Z-Wave event. You can have that drive Blue Iris to text you a still, email you a video clip, or just prompt you to open the Blue Iris mobile app and talk with the person at the door (and see real-time video).
I figured it would have to be a seperate doorbell and camera, not like the integrated version vivint has for their closed system. Sounds like a pretty hefty system. May i ask how much it cost overall? And curious if you went full out with whole home a/v? I definitely dont need more than one camera for the porch plus the one i already have inside facing the front door.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
-J- is offline  
post #17 of 17 Old 03-09-2016, 06:41 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 1
All of my cameras are at least 1080p, but none of them cost more than $150 or so. It's a mix of USG, HikVision, and Anran. Blue Iris costs $40 or $50.

As far as the house goes, I didn't go with a full AV setup. Instead, I have two whole-house WMC DVRs, and Ceton Echos in the various rooms. It keeps me from needing any cable boxes, and makes the TVs super simple for guests. Most of the TVs have Amazon Fire TV Sticks, too. Fancy matrix switchers and distributors are well outside of what I was willing to spend on the project. Among other things, the Fire TV Sticks allow all of the TVs to have access to the 12 main IP camera feed (the mosaic feed is usually on in the kitchen).

I implemented house-wide audio with a couple used Onkyo receivers (TX-NR535 and 636). I made network controlled zone selectors (Arduino + relay board + impedence circuit) that are connected to the receivers to distribute the audio selectively to the rooms of the house (8 zones per receiver). I have integrated it all into my HomeSeer, though, so turning on the zones and setting Spotify or Pandora, and controlling the volume is all done through the normal HA app.
HoustonOkie is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Home Automation

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off