I tend to agree that I would spend some thought on the lighting system. Lutron Radio RA2 really offers a lot of 'traditional' light switches which electricians understand and can install. As part of a comprehensive electrical plan and lighting diagram for the entire space, you should plan accordingly and ahead of time. Depending on budget, this may involve an actual lighting designer, or may be something you just do on your own based upon your preferences. I'm no lighting designed, but I know I like recessed lighting and I know I like breaking up zones in certain rooms. Kids/guest rooms get recessed lighting on a single switch by the door, which they can then adjust via Alexa (through Crestron). Family room gets 3 loads. One for the seating area, one for the main area, and one by the fireplace. Three switches in a good room location and again, Alexa control. The theater will end up with more zones of lighting, as appropriate.
So, every single aspect of your home, which you want control over, is it's own aspect and requires a certain skill set.
None of my light switches have network cabling pulled to them unless I actually have a controller next to the light switch (several rooms do). They are all RF controlled via a central controller in my rack.
On the flip side, all my in-room keypads use a 4-wire connection, which I used cat-5e for. Doubling up the pairs. If I ever switch to a network control switch, then the wire is fine. Yes, pull network cabling to control locations as it likely will be what is expected or can be used.
Ethernet to rooms is good, but pick you locations. If you intend to use 'smart' functions in a TV, you may want a Ethernet pull there, but you may want a second or even a third pull in certain rooms. But, perhaps not. I basically have hard wired Ethernet at all TV locations as well as in my office and WAP locations and my kid's computer locations. But, bedrooms and such likely should keep a network location as well.
For what it's worth, look to place the Ubiquity units in hidden locations if you can. Closets and such if possible. It's a cleaner look. I just hide ours in our family room directly behind our couch. No reason to not put it under a sofa if it fits you know?
For outdoor lighting, I would ask a landscaper what they recommend you do. It likely is all low voltage outside these days. But, heck if I know. Depending on your home design and how much landscape work you have done ahead/after the build, you may want to wait on pulling power for non-existent landscaping. But, make sure you circuit breaker can handle the power load. Depending on home size, this could require a great deal of power. But, overbuying a larger circuit breaker, or putting in a sub-panel during construction can save a lot of money in the long run.
TVs in my home have access to my head end after the fact. My design uses distributed audio and video to every room (20+ zones of audio, up to 16 video zones). I also have access to every TV location from my basement at any time. So, I can retrofit wiring whenever I would like to. That said, I don't want to pull wires constantly. So, I pulled cat-5e (now I'd use cat-6 at least). I pulled 3 runs of network cabling and if the run was short enough, I pulled HDMI. This all runs into issues when it comes to 4K and 18Gb/s requirements. As it turns out, my HDMI matrix can handle this with cat-5e cabling and the right cards. But, it's pricey. All this said, when I finish my basement I will have conduit installed (1.25" Carlon Resigard or similar) to each TV location and my family room equipment location, so I can add/change cabling in the future as necessary. I already have 2" conduit and a pathway between my basement and the attic space to add cabling.
When my last home was built, I prewired for speakers everywhere. I found that taking about 100 pictures of the unfinished pre-drywall walls and ceiling was not enough. I would have taken more. So, if you don't intend to install speakers during construction, just wire for things, and NOT have those wires protrude through the drywall, then take hundreds of photos to document wiring locations and mark on the drawings where those wires are hidden. My drawings would say things like: 4'3" from a certain wall, and 6' in from another wall. I would look at the photos and then measure, then pull out my stud finder, then I would cut a hole and find the wire. I had a 100% success rate, so that seems to be the way to do it if you aren't putting speakers in from the start.
Pulling extra category cabling to locations where you might want sensors or controls or indicators or whatever is never a bad thing. I have pulled them to my garage to eventually get my garage door fully automated with hard wired relay controls. Good. I pulled spare network cabling to my attic which I will soon be using to control my motorized shades.
Look around and make considerations for things you also may not have thought of. Like motorized shades. Or a networked refrigerator (likely that will be wireless). I ended up having to add cat-5e to all my shades in my home, and it was a piece of work to get them in place. But, now they are all on hard power. Unfortunately the shades offer no real control to raise/lower them which drives me nuts. So, find out ahead of time how things can be controlled. Alexa 'automation' isn't automation really. It's just another closed format remote control system. Relay is open. RS-232 is typically open. Ethernet is sometimes open. So, don't get sold on the word 'automation' by a manufacturer that doesn't publish commands!
Planning is never going to be enough and you will wish you had done something after the fact that you didn't do. This is unavoidable and while you can't change that, you can do as much research as possible ahead of time and be as ready as you possibly can be. Consider things like security cameras in the future (hard network cable) which you may want in various locations around your home both inside and outside.
Maybe ask what all people have controlled outside of their A/V system and lighting. Look for ideas of unusual automation options.
I control, for example, my fireplace. My front door lock is relay controlled. I also have a couple of sets of wireless headphones which I can set to track in any room that I'm in.
Finally, for HVAC, if you are looking for room-by-room thermostat control, then that would often be built into the HVAC from the start with motorized dampers in each room that regulate airflow to those rooms. That's a serious discussion with the HVAC installers and often outside the normal scope of most builders. We have a two-unit HVAC system with separate Nest controllers, but definitely not room-by-room control. Yes, I almost definitely would add that in the future if money allowed.
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