Sony 2014 W600B,W800B,W850B - Page 63 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1861 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Dom Di Stroia View Post
Does the re-lighting occur when the lights are plugged into a USB port on another device, such as a cable/satellite box, or a PC?

If so, the issue could originate in the lamp, namely the controller.
It works fine plugged into my bluray player or shaw STB, just seems to be an issue with the tv.
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post #1862 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 12:42 PM
 
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Originally Posted by cmartell View Post
Where would i find USB auto start.... ive looked everywhere. If i plug the lights anywhere else, such as a bluray player, satellite box etc they work fine and do not come back on once that specific unit has been turned off so it must be something with the tv.
Home Button >Select Settings >Select Set Up >Select USB AutoStart >set to OFF ,
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post #1863 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by tubetwister View Post
Caveat, AUO has both Active and Passive 3D VA panels

One can't assume passive 3D means LGD IPS panels anymore since AUO is making both active and passive 3D VA panels .

.I wonder if that's what happened at rtings.com since they haven't actually reviewed a 4K Sony yet ? That would be surprising they are usually very good but stranger things have happened .

If you go to the Sony website the 2014 4K sets are a mixture of active and passive 3D panels

(with the exception of the 55X800B 2D set ) so it stands to reason they all are not LGD S-IPS panels.


55X800B 2D set is likely an AUO or Samsung VA panel

2014 49X850B and 55X850B are LGD passive 3D S-IPS panels

I belive 2014 65 WX850B use AUO Passive 3D VA panels [not verified] .

65 X950B is supposed to be LGD S-IPS passive 3D panel

55X900B ,65X900B , should be active 3D AUO VA panels

70X850B is probably Samsung or AUO active 3D VA panel .

79X900B is LGD S-IPS passive 3D

85X950B is Innolux active 3D VA panel

AFAIK when Sony is using AUO panels in their sets they use both the Passive or Active 3D AUO VA panels


2014 - 2015 WX850B/ X850C have no local dimming(FALD or Zone micro dimming ) like X950B/X900C so presumably the X900/X950 B and C sets will perform better than the X850B and X850C sets . AFAIK no real info on the 2015 panels yet .


My guess is the 2015 75" 2K/4K sets will probably be Samsung VA panels.

EU Sony 4K panel list should help anyone extrapolate most of the USA 2014 4K models .
Here is a decent 2014 EU panel list at avforum:

link http://:http://www.avforums.com/thre...655689/page-13
Thanks, now the picture quality looks a lot like my gaming monitor but I am still thinking of returning this TV to get a Vizio. The only reason why I wanna do this is because the Vizio P series has low input lag in every single picture mode, I just like having more freedom to calibrate without any major draw backs.
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post #1864 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mefan101 View Post
Do I need lights on in order to have deep black and good uniformity on the W600B? When I turn off the lights, the TV I currently have has luminated blacks (especially when looking at black bars on the screen and when looking at a completely black screen), as if it's not black at all. It looks kinda like a dark grey -almost black- color.

I want a TV that I know will have deep and not bright blacks at night in case I want to watch movie or play games in the dark.


Samsung TVs have higher input lag, even when activating the PC setting.

One more thing. I swear that some color are not what they should be on my current TV. On warm, there are some shades of blue (more specially the darker shades of blue!) that feel should be blue, but look almost lavender-purple-ish. The same with some yellows looking almost green-ish.

For example, when watching some episodes of The Simpsons, the character skin tones look like yellow with a green tint. The same with The Simpsons Movie. Is it supposed to look like that? Note that Reds and greens look great.

I have no way to make the colors accurate. No White Balance.

I swear that my nook has better colors. All blues are blues and all yellows are yellow.
Sorry I haven't been able to keep up with this thread.

I couldn't tell whether the 48R470B was using an IPS or VA panel when I looked at it at Walmart, because the overhead lighting was just too glaring. If it's an IPS panel, then you should get better blacks and contrast ratio (ie brighter whites) by switching to a VA panel like the W600B, W700B, W800B, or even the cheapy 40R380B. If the 48R470B is a VA panel though, then the other Sony VA panels probably won't look much different.

The tradeoff with VA panels is worse angle of view. The 40R380B had terrible AOV, and the other VA panels above probably aren't substantially better. According to rtings, the W800B (and probably W700B) is slightly better than W600B. But both panels lose significant contrast and saturation, and turn more blue at an angle, like the R380B...



So that's my main gripe with the Sonys... lousy AOV.

The 40R380B also had some fairly noticeable uniformity issues, both in its whites and blacks. The 60Hz W600B appears to have better uniformity though, so it would probably be a step up from the R380B in that regard. And it also has better calibration features than either the R380B or R470B, fwtw. The 120Hz W800B also appears to have some minor uniformity issues though (some darkness in the upper corners on whites, and cloudiness in the blacks, based on rtings' pics).

Unfortunately, I haven't really found any LCD panels in my price range that offer a good combination of contrast ratio, angle of view, uniformity and calibration features. It just doesn't seem to be something that exists at this point (unless you like the local dimming implementation on Vizio's M series). I prefer the "glossy look" of some other LCD panels as well, vs. the semi-glossy screens on the Sonys. But the glossy LGs have very poor contrast ratio, and the glossy Samsung 7150 is out of my price range, and also has AOVs issues.

I haven't looked very closely at the W800B, because it's normally well out of my price bracket. If the Fry's deal is still good though, I might possibly be tempted to give it a look. I don't really need/want the 3D though, and suspect the AOV and uniformity issues on that model would be problematic for me (esp. compared to the Samsung 51F5300 plasma, which is my backup plan if I can't find a decent LCD).

I'm sure I've mentioned this before, but if you still have the R470B, you might try plugging in my R380B settings posted here. I'm about 90% certain the R380B uses a VA panel, based on its poor AOV, and high contrast ratio/deep blacks when viewed from the front. I think those settings might give you about the best colors and contrast on your current R470B TV though, whether its VA or IPS. If you want brighter whites, then leave the LED Motion Mode OFF, and set Power Saving to LOW or OFF, and adjust the Backlight setting to taste.

I also recommend using the HIGH Clear White setting with the WARM Temperature mode. That will probably make the grays/color more uniform on your TV, and give the whites more "pop", which should help some. The black and white clip points (Brightness & Picture/Contrast settings) may also need some adjustment if you're using a full range 0-255 input, rather than a standard 16-235 video source.

I warned you about the 6500K lights btw. I use a subtle (ie very low wattage) ~6500K daylight fill behind my direct-view TVs, which helps a little with the colors. But most of the lighting in my viewing area is still just regular incandescents, which are easier on my eyes. Some well-arranged room lighting is beneficial with just about any direct-view/flat panel TV imo, regardless of whether its plasma, CRT, VA or IPS LCD. The IPS LCDs have the worst black levels though, so it's essential with those imo.

If the 6500K bulbs were too bright, then you might try some regular 15 or 25 watt incandescent bulbs instead, or some LED or fluorescent bulbs with similar brightness (~100 to 200 lumens), if you prefer those.

ADU

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post #1865 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 01:55 PM
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Should I get the 55" Samsung 6350, 55" Samsung 7150, or the 55" W800B for $800? I'm trying to figure out my best option bang for buck. I wouldn't say I video game a lot, about 15%, but mainly for movies, netflix, etc.
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post #1866 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RookieSpeed View Post
Should I get the 55" Samsung 6350, 55" Samsung 7150, or the 55" W800B for $800? I'm trying to figure out my best option bang for buck. I wouldn't say I video game a lot, about 15%, but mainly for movies, netflix, etc.
W800B for $800, or get it at deep discount from a place such as Fry's for USD ~500, as MSD0 did:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post30915009

(55H's seem overpriced, and the 7150 features a 240-Hz panel.)

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post #1867 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 02:54 PM
 
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I think ADU is pretty much spot on across the board. I believe most of the Sony R3,R4,R5,R6 and all W600B for sure are VA panels 48" is usually an VA panel size whereas a 49" is almost guaranteed to be an LGD IPS panel another caveat is LGD also makes 42",47" and 55" IPS panels . Sammy and AUO make 55"-60" VA panels also .

I don't know what panels the R models use but the W600B are all Samsung S-PVA not a bad panel for the $$ should be an OK set once it's dialed within it's price bracket W6 Sony's usually don't need heavy calibration they are decently accurate other than that the Sammy 6XXX series . I never had a thing for Vizios too many issues in the owner's threads and they didn't impress me in the stores or at friends and families places although I have not seen the new Vizio Pee [SIC] models .


I'm with ADU on the back light I prefer a low wattage 6500K lamp or sometimes a warmer~5000K low wattage I don't want the backlight to become a distraction in itself but they can be quite good on any set regardless of cost .
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post #1868 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Dom Di Stroia View Post
W800B for $800, or get it at deep discount from a place such as Fry's for USD ~500, as MSD0 did:

(55H's seem overpriced, and the 7150 features a 240-Hz panel.)
Well the W800B I'm getting is the 55" for $800 at my local store. I don't know if they'll give me a good deal on the H7150, but I guess it won't be as well priced as the W800B. I understand the Sony is amazing for gaming, but does it compete in movies and such as well with the H7150 and such?
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post #1869 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 04:34 PM
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Home Button >Select Settings >Select Set Up >Select USB AutoStart >set to OFF ,
THhanks for the reply. I have the 50 inch w800b and when i press home, go to settings, i have 5 options. Picture and Display
Sound
Preferences
Channels and Input
Network

I checked all of these and i dont see an option for usb auto start anywhere. I didn find what you told me on the Sony website though for a different model tv.....
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post #1870 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 05:34 PM
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Just looking at Amazon, seems there's been another price drop on the 60" W850B.
...but at the same time, there was a $100 price increase on the 49" X850B...just for good measure.

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post #1871 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by tubetwister View Post
Downgrade from a Sony to a Vizio ............. U got to be kidding man !

First thing to do = turn ALL eco settings off ( out of box default is on for everything in there dimms the picture majorly ) , turn any power saver ,auto sensing brightness and auto sensing back light off . IOW TURN EVERYTHING OFF IN THERE

Home > settings >eco >turn everything off in there


Next max out your back light and contrast (picture) in game mode and all, other modes brightness should be ~50-55 same for color


Home >settings >picture mode >set brightness 50-55 ,back light max ,picture (contrast ) max , ,color ~50-55 ,color temp to warm (unless you prefer neutral ) sharpness to ~ 15 then select advanced settings ,

set adv contrast enhancer to medium,black corrector medium gamma -2 ,clear white off or low,live color low med or high to preference ,Turn .back light strobing or LED motion OFF . Motion flow to off, std 1,or 2 no more than that play around wit it in da games see what U like mon ☺.


Next : Home >settings >select screen > set Display area to Full Pixel (if your set allows that ) in game mode it should be avail in some other modes it varies by set model

All this must be done for each mode and input you use unless you invoke global settings.

These settings should give you good starting points in any picture /scene mode .
Why do you think the Vizio P Series would be a down grade?

Your suggestions really helped this TV look great on game mode when I am using it as a computer monitor and games look great for PC gaming. The major problem is it looks horrible on game mode when I play Halo Masterchief Collection on Xbox One, it looks a lot better on the General settings mode since I prefer the vivid picture setting. This TV has 80-90ms input lag when not in game mode though and that is just unacceptable.

This is the only reason why I want the Vizio P Series, it has 17-19ms input lag on every picture setting, game mode or not. I want all my games to look great instead of most of them with me being very disappointed with how games look on console gaming.
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post #1872 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 06:52 PM
 
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Why do you think the Vizio P Series would be a down grade?

Your suggestions really helped this TV look great on game mode when I am using it as a computer monitor and games look great for PC gaming. The major problem is it looks horrible on game mode when I play Halo Masterchief Collection on Xbox One, it looks a lot better on the General settings mode since I prefer the vivid picture setting. This TV has 80-90ms input lag when not in game mode though and that is just unacceptable.

This is the only reason why I want the Vizio P Series, it has 17-19ms input lag on every picture setting, game mode or not. I want all my games to look great instead of most of them with me being very disappointed with how games look on console gaming.
I thought you were talking about the Vizio M and E models (I've seen those and was not impressed ) although there have been some issues with the P models as well in the Owners thread here .

As I stated earlier I have not seen a 4K P model Vizio and did not comment on what I have read here about the P model but since you asked ☺:

Lots of folks like them but I read here at AVS they can be extremely difficult even for pros to calibrate the red push down to a manageable level on the models with Sharp AMVA panels (most of them ) and they have been having major sharpness/upscaling and processing and panel issues ( like half brightness on one half of the screen for example and other crazy stuff like lines dark spots, sparkling over highlighted eyeballs on some content ,voids and video artifacts etc lots of supported codecs, chroma sampling and formats etc You Tube VP9 is one example ),some things that may or may not be taken care of on a recent or future firmware update although some folks seem to think the latest update helped a lot with some things.

These are things you just would not usually see see on a Sony ,Panasonic,Samsung ,LG or Toshiba tier one brand about the only thing with a Sony or any tier 1 brand LED set you are likely to encounter is the occasional bad panel .


Personally I only buy tier one brands and currently have a Samsung,Toshiba, LG and Sony with the one exception being an Insignia 40" that is only used as and additional working PC monitor displaying DAW software GUI and watching some You Tube Videos that's all it does . As a TV it's no match for the other 4 sets not even close . No issues with any of these other sets all of them are 2013 models.

My suggestion would be to read the recently updated thread sticky and more recent posts in the Visio P owners thread here at AVS .

Maybe Visio fixed things up some with a recent updates lots of very knowledgeable owners here I've conversed with in other threads here and that one although one prof. calibrator and very frequent contributor there had 3 different sizes and got frustrated with some calibration and maybe processing (or other issues) and AFAIK ended up ditching Vizio altogether.

OTOH He still thinks they are a good buy and states that,..... another poster or two went back to Sony and a few to Samsung in all fairness lot's of folks really like them there especially for the money and folks exchange /return /change sets in all the threads here anyway YMMV.


Warning it's a loooong thread maybe 11K or 12K posts so naturally one would see more issues there . I would read the sticky (beginning few pages they update issues and fixes there ) and more recent pages l
link : https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...-s-thread.html

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post #1873 of 2631 Old 01-18-2015, 09:16 PM
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Day 2 with the 48W590B. Very happy.

Last night we watched "Rio 2" on cable (FIOS) with the cable box output set to 1080i. I set the TV to Cinema mode from the default General. Seemed an excellent test of the TV. Lots of detail in the feathers, flocks of birds flying, sky. Mostly lighter colors.

Next we watched "Jennifer Lopez: Dance Again". Lots of concert footage with bright spotlights against deep blacks. Black & white footage. Face close-ups. Again, seemed a really good test of the TV's abilities. (Audio wasn't that great. Overly compressed and filtered.)

I picked up the Disney WOW disc this afternoon. A quick run through of the basics showed the TV to be very close already. I'll do the advanced stuff tomorrow when the family isn't hanging around. But it seems pretty accurate and good looking already.

We also watched "Cirque du Soleil: Worlds Away" on Netflix (fed from Apple TV). Very nice. And finally, "Dances With Wolves" (FIOS) this evening. Big blue skies, panning across prairies. No DSE that I noticed.

Only a few minor quibbles so far:
1. There is _slight_ vignetting in the upper corners. It only shows up on some content.
2. The matte screen reflects the lights in the room. Annoying physics.
3. Is there a way to turn off the power light? The tiny green light in the center of the frame is distracting.

At this point, I have no idea how a 120Hz panel would improve things, or how the picture could look better; probably ignorance on my part. But so far it seems I made a good choice.
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post #1874 of 2631 Old 01-19-2015, 04:56 AM
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Day 2 with the 48W590B. Very happy.
3. Is there a way to turn off the power light? The tiny green light in the center of the frame is distracting.
I don't think so. I have a piece of a Brother label that adheres very well to dim it a lot. I also put black electrical table over the base until I can paint it flat black. The tape could be used over the green lantern also.
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post #1875 of 2631 Old 01-19-2015, 04:58 AM
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Power indicators are a pain in the butt, I know... I have this happen on my basement TV (Toshiba 32TL515U) as well, and it seems that it's rather fixed. Nothing can be done.

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Day 2 with the 48W590B. Very happy......Is there a way to turn off the power light? The tiny green light in the center of the frame is distracting.
Just buy a pack of Light Dims to cover that light. Get the "Original" Light Dims which are 50% light blocking (the 100% versions completely block the light just like a piece of black electrical tape does) The pack is about $3 at Fry's, or you can buy them on Ebay or Amazon or directly from their own website. I use the 50% Light Dims on all sorts of annoyingly bright indicators. If one sticker doesn't dim the light enough, i'll put a 2nd one over the first one that dims the light even more. The pack has several shapes and sizes and they can be cut to fit also.

Check out these links:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=COsz5kRC_JE

http://lightdims.com/

http://lightdims.com/tvad.htm?PHPSES...a33e3ece3c14d0 <--- intenionally corny infomercial

I put Light Dims on various other TVs around the house and also use them to dim the overly-bright front display of my cable DVR, on an alarm clock that's too bright, on my PC monitor light, on the power indicator on my Tivo Premiere, the red laser beam light on my HDMI splitter, and even the super-bright Traction Control indicator on my car's instrument panel . Some of my devices required two or three layers to make a light dark enough. The good thing about these is that they don't leave a sticky residue like a square of black electrical tape does.


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post #1877 of 2631 Old 01-19-2015, 03:43 PM
 
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@RandyWalters

Those light dims look way cool thanks for the links!
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post #1878 of 2631 Old 01-19-2015, 08:33 PM
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@RandyWalters Those light dims look way cool thanks for the links!
They are very cool, and useful. Very easy on the eyes when the man-room is dark. I have also shared them with several friends and family members and they love em too

And i love their intentionally campy info-mercial


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post #1879 of 2631 Old 01-20-2015, 01:29 AM
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EDIT :
OTOH Calibrated black level (ANSI checkerboard at 0.042 cd/m2 ain't nothing to write home about for a VA panel but the peak calibrated white luminance to 120 cd/m2.might offset that and provide decent overall contrast .

If HDTVtest co. says it plays good I would belive them they are pretty good.
Yes, most euro reviews have backlight pretty high in their calibration, Flatpanels even at 10. AV Forums at 8 iirc and HDTV Test doesn't publish theirs aynmore but all aiming for 120 cd/m² and 2.4 gamma.
It does give a lot more pop and really not that uncomfortable in the dark/dim (for watching a movie, not for prolonged periods of course) ...

I see CNET has backlight at 5 and gamma setting at -2 (and advanced contrast on at low) vs Flatpanels 10 & -1 (115cd/m²:0.04cd/m²), AVF 3 & -1 (a user had backlight at 9 in his calibration), contrast from 90 to 80* (98.09cd/m²:0.039cd/m²).
Quote:
* Full screen white was around 117 cd/m2, if I remember rightly.

EDIT: DO you need contrast that low with the W9? I had to lower this to stop clipping the blue channel in the greyscale to flatten gamma.
http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_10...ture-settings/
https://www.avforums.com/threads/son...tings.1869036/
http://www.flatpanelshd.com/review.p...&id=1399283987

Last edited by mithras1; 01-20-2015 at 04:42 AM.
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post #1880 of 2631 Old 01-20-2015, 08:42 PM
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Just purchased 50W800B

I just ordered the 50W800B for $499 via Amazon price match to Frys.
Does anyone have any suggested settings for this display.
Main use will be DirecTV and occasional Roku and Kodi streaming of 1080p Blu-ray rips.
I will hook this up to my Sony soundbar with HDMI switching.
No gaming device will be hooked up to this.
This will be in a well-lit bedroom with 2 windows on the same side.
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post #1881 of 2631 Old 01-21-2015, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by RVD26 View Post
I just ordered the 50W800B for $499 via Amazon price match to Frys.
You scored ! Smart of you to get Amazon to price match before the Fry's deal disappears completely.


Quote:
Does anyone have any suggested settings for this display. Main use will be DirecTV and occasional Roku and Kodi streaming of 1080p Blu-ray rips.
Did you see my General/Custom mode settings i posted a few pages back? I'm mostly watching news, racing, sports, documentaries, and prime time programming and the occasional Blu-Ray on my 55W800B and i got my picture looking pretty darn good (about 95% as good as my excellent 55ST60 Plasma). You do need to be fairly centered in front of the screen to get the best contrast ratio - if i move over two or three places on the couch the contrast starts dropping and the picture starts to wash out but this is not an issue for me since it's only myself watching it most of the time, or with one or two others on the couch.


Quote:
This will be in a well-lit bedroom with 2 windows on the same side.
Mine is handling my bright man-room pretty well in the daytime and is quite a bit less reflective than my ST60, but will still start to get washed out if the room is bathed in too much sunlight. At night, it does an even better job of reducing reflections from table lamps but i can still see the lamps in dark scenes. I find the semi-matte screen is a good compromise for day or night viewing. As long as you don't have the TV positioned so that you can see the reflections of lights or windows in the screen it handles a bright room pretty well.



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post #1882 of 2631 Old 01-21-2015, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post
You scored ! Smart of you to get Amazon to price match before the Fry's deal disappears completely.


Did you see my General/Custom mode settings i posted a few pages back? I'm mostly watching news, racing, sports, documentaries, and prime time programming and the occasional Blu-Ray on my 55W800B and i got my picture looking pretty darn good (about 95% as good as my excellent 55ST60 Plasma). You do need to be fairly centered in front of the screen to get the best contrast ratio - if i move over two or three places on the couch the contrast starts dropping and the picture starts to wash out but this is not an issue for me since it's only myself watching it most of the time, or with one or two others on the couch.


Mine is handling my bright man-room pretty well in the daytime and is quite a bit less reflective than my ST60, but will still start to get washed out if the room is bathed in too much sunlight. At night, it does an even better job of reducing reflections from table lamps but i can still see the lamps in dark scenes. I find the semi-matte screen is a good compromise for day or night viewing. As long as you don't have the TV positioned so that you can see the reflections of lights or windows in the screen it handles a bright room pretty well.



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Would you mind linking the settings you provided?
I'm having a hard time finding it for some reason.
Yes, most of my TV viewing will be about the same with lot's of sports (especially football and basketball).
Hopefully, there is no motion blurring with this set.
I will be replacing a 2008 model Samsung LCD.
Thanks.
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post #1883 of 2631 Old 01-21-2015, 08:32 AM
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Wall-mounting

How are y'all wall-mounting this thing?
I've seen conflicting information on this site on whether this can be wall-mounted right out of the box.
I ordered a Sony adapter just in case it can't be mounted out of the box.
I am definitely not handy and would prefer to keep my existing wall mount rather than having to use install a new one.
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post #1884 of 2631 Old 01-21-2015, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVD26 View Post
Would you mind linking the settings you provided?
I'm having a hard time finding it for some reason.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post30728913


Quote:
Originally Posted by RVD26 View Post
How are y'all wall-mounting this thing? I've seen conflicting information on this site on whether this can be wall-mounted right out of the box.
I ordered a Sony adapter just in case it can't be mounted out of the box.
My 55" W800B came with a pair of hex-shapped male/female M6 threaded extension adapters/spacers to use on the upper wall mounting holes to facilitate using the standard upright TV brackets that come with standard wall mounts. I mounted mine to my Peerless PLA50 articulated mount. I don't know if the 50" version uses/comes with the same extension adapters as the 55" version but i think it does. I think the special adapter is for the smaller 40" size but i'm not sure.


Quote:
I am definitely not handy and would prefer to keep my existing wall mount rather than having to use install a new one.
I did have one little problem when mounting this TV to my Peerless mount - the TV's lower mounting holes are really low on the back of the TV and the upright brackets on my wall mount don't extend down that far, so not wanting to relocate my mount lower on the wall, i used a few short pieces of thin slotted DIN Rail to make adapter brackets to place between the TV and the uprights and that worked perfectly. The TV is at the exact height that i wanted it to hover above my credenza.



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post #1885 of 2631 Old 01-21-2015, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVD26 View Post
Would you mind linking the settings you provided?
I'm having a hard time finding it for some reason.
Yes, most of my TV viewing will be about the same with lot's of sports (especially football and basketball).
Hopefully, there is no motion blurring with this set.
I will be replacing a 2008 model Samsung LCD.
Thanks.
Corrected link to Randy Walters' calibration settings for the 55W800B (post 1769 of this thread):

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post30728913
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A/VR: Sony STR-DE598; front: 2x Polk Audio TSx220B
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post #1886 of 2631 Old 01-21-2015, 02:13 PM
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Cool screw size for included wall mount

I purchased the 50w800b for my father (got the fry's deal). Will use the included basic wall mount as he doesn't need articulating. Can someone suggest the proper screw size. I am going into heavy wood paneling so am not too worried about hitting studs.
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post #1887 of 2631 Old 01-21-2015, 04:17 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newz54 View Post
I purchased the 50w800b for my father (got the fry's deal). Will use the included basic wall mount as he doesn't need articulating. Can someone suggest the proper screw size. I am going into heavy wood paneling so am not too worried about hitting studs.
The TV weighs ~ 32lbs I would get a stud finder and drill and screw the mount or a mount bracket into the wall framing studs they are usually 16" or sometimes 24" apart on center .1/4 x 3" or 3/8 by 4" lag screw should work depending on the thickness of your mounting bracket (keeping in mind your framing stud is 4" )deep just drill a 1/8"or 3/16 (depending on the screw size) or so pilot hole first .OTOH if your paneling is over drywall you will probably want the 4" L screw . On a heavier ~ 60- 100lb TV I would probably use a 3/8" x4 " screws but two or more 1/4" dia.lag screws will hold 32lbs
ex,


http://www.lowes.com/Hardware/Fasten...N-1z0yk5o/pl#!

Wood sheet paneling would ordinarily be only about 1/8 in.,1/4 in., or 3/8 in"in thickness and may be MDF plywood with vernier applied hardwood paneling may be slightly thicker (or not) maybe 5/8" in some cases .
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post #1888 of 2631 Old 01-21-2015, 04:51 PM
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thanks. It's a 70 year old house so it's real wood....no mdf. Not worried about that as there is plaster behind the paneling. I haven't opened the box (since it's a gift) so was wondering how large of a wood screw or toggle this will take? It will save me a trip to the hardware store.
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post #1889 of 2631 Old 01-21-2015, 05:21 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newz54 View Post
thanks. It's a 70 year old house so it's real wood....no mdf. Not worried about that as there is plaster behind the paneling. I haven't opened the box (since it's a gift) so was wondering how large of a wood screw or toggle this will take? It will save me a trip to the hardware store.
TV mount probably uses 5 or 6mm screws or approx 1/4 " I wouldn't think it would be more than 5/16" or ~ 7mm
I'm not so sure I would use a toggle bolt myself they are usually very low grade steel and bendable .
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post #1890 of 2631 Old 01-21-2015, 05:34 PM
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Does anyone know when the next firmware update will come? Or if one will even come?

I really wish they added a vivid picture setting in game mode since that is what I prefer, I calibrated it so it looks good enough for PC gaming but on Xbox one vivid picture looks a lot better with gaming but it is only in other settings where the input lag is 80-90ms, game mode has no vivid picture setting.

There doesn't seem to be some custom picture setting where you can set it to game mode and have a vivid picture at the same time.
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