Official Samsung UNxxH7150 / UNxxH7100AF Owners Thread - Page 100 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2971 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by imgrund View Post
1. First off, set all your devices to output 4:2:2 YCbCr.

Does anyone know what this means...in English?
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post #2972 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 08:37 AM
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netflix lost password again

Does anyone understand why Netflix loses your password on this TV series? As in exactly which scenarios cause it? Is there a timer on a cookie or more than that?

It just happened yesterday, and nothing had changed by me. There was an update announced as available on my screen before I tried Netflix. After Netflix prompted me for my login info yet again, I decided to install the update (2025?) (as it clearly isn't the cause of this issue)

My main reason is that I use very secure passwords (long and random) - I am NOT entering it constantly.

I am extremely frustrated that I can't simply associate this device with my netflix account and be done with this login issue. I'd rather not use Netflix on this TV if this is all we can expect. It is not worth my frustration. Does everyone else simply put up with having to constantly login?

Last edited by scottypa; 01-01-2015 at 08:38 AM. Reason: words
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post #2973 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leavenfish View Post
Does anyone know what this means...in English?
Definition of:YCbCr

One of two primary color spaces used to represent digital component video (the other is RGB). The difference between YCbCr and RGB is that YCbCr represents color as brightness and two color difference signals, while RGB represents color as red, green and blue. In YCbCr, the Y is the brightness (luma), Cb is blue minus luma (B-Y) and Cr is red minus luma (R-Y). See component video.

YCbCr Is Digital
MPEG compression, which is used in DVDs, digital TV and Video CDs, is coded in YCbCr, and digital camcorders (MiniDV, DV, Digital Betacam, etc.) output YCbCr over a digital link such as FireWire or SDI. The ITU-R BT.601 international standard for digital video defines both YCbCr and RGB color spaces. See chroma subsampling.

YPbPr Is Analog
YPbPr is the analog counterpart of YCbCr. It uses three cables for connection, whereas YCbCr uses only a single cable (see YPbPr). See YUV, YUV/RGB conversion formulas and ITU-R BT.601.
http://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia/term/55147/ycbcr

does that help? I have no idea how to set the YCbCr though
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post #2974 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by logitack View Post
was that sales price the same as the black friday/cyber monday prices...or higher than that? just curious

glad you got a good one... considering all the posts about flashlighting and such
Not sure about the black friday/cyber monday price. With my luck I paid more than those prices. The current sale price is $1799. I got the 15% off from that. I should add as a safety net I picked up the 2-year BB warranty. I nudged a discount out of them on that as well.

I hope I got a "good one". All indications at present look promising.
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post #2975 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by logitack View Post
Definition of:YCbCr

One of two primary color spaces used to represent digital component video (the other is RGB). The difference between YCbCr and RGB is that YCbCr represents color as brightness and two color difference signals, while RGB represents color as red, green and blue. In YCbCr, the Y is the brightness (luma), Cb is blue minus luma (B-Y) and Cr is red minus luma (R-Y). See component video.

YCbCr Is Digital
MPEG compression, which is used in DVDs, digital TV and Video CDs, is coded in YCbCr, and digital camcorders (MiniDV, DV, Digital Betacam, etc.) output YCbCr over a digital link such as FireWire or SDI. The ITU-R BT.601 international standard for digital video defines both YCbCr and RGB color spaces. See chroma subsampling.

YPbPr Is Analog
YPbPr is the analog counterpart of YCbCr. It uses three cables for connection, whereas YCbCr uses only a single cable (see YPbPr). See YUV, YUV/RGB conversion formulas and ITU-R BT.601.
http://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia/term/55147/ycbcr

does that help? I have no idea how to set the YCbCr though

Thank you!
I do not know how to set this YCbCr either...now I know what it is...but not how it pertains to this particular TV. Perhaps the OP can weigh in or someone else can enlighten us.
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post #2976 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by scottypa View Post
Does anyone understand why Netflix loses your password on this TV series? As in exactly which scenarios cause it? Is there a timer on a cookie or more than that?

It just happened yesterday, and nothing had changed by me. There was an update announced as available on my screen before I tried Netflix.
i just tried it, and yup, it asked me to enter user name and password....I am pretty sure i entered all of that before.

I entered it again, did the 2025 update, went back to netflix and I didnt have to re-enter the user name and pw.

i did turn off the tv (not unplugged though) and went back to netflix when I turned the tv back on... all was ok.
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post #2977 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Leavenfish View Post
Does anyone know what this means...in English?
Video stored on a Blu-Ray uses the colour space 4:2:0 YCbCr (see logitack's post). Your TV only plays video in the colour space RGB.

The entire conversion chain is as follows:
1. 4:2:0 YCbCR to
2. 4:2:2 YCbCr to
3. 4:4:4 YCbCr to
4. RGB

By setting your devices (where possible) to output 4:2:2 YCbCr, you allow your display and its conversion hardware to do the conversion to RGB - not your output device.

Your Samsung will always convert the same way, whereas your output devices may do it differently.

To add to this, some TVs, when receiving RGB will convert the signal back to 4:2:2 and then back to RGB.

So to reduce redundant conversions and ensure all your conversions are consistent (i.e. done on the same device), set it to output 4:2:2 YCbCr if your device allows you to.
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post #2978 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 09:14 AM
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I have had my 7150 for a month now. Really happy...room might be a tad too small for the 65" I have, but love the picture quality.


Question: Is there a way to store/save multiple settings for a given picture mode. I find myself changing it every day.


Ex: during the day, I might like specific settings under STANDARD picture mode. But at night, I might like slightly different settings (like adjusting the brightness, etc) under STANDARD picture mode.
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post #2979 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Leavenfish View Post
Thank you!
I do not know how to set this YCbCr either...now I know what it is...but not how it pertains to this particular TV. Perhaps the OP can weigh in or someone else can enlighten us.
Every device is different. For instance:
1. 6200 Sony Blu-Ray: setup -> screen settings -> YCbCr/RGB -> YCbCr (4:2:2)
2. XBox 360: settings -> system -> console settings -> display -> HDMI color space -> YCbCr709
3. Mac Mini: finder -> applications -> system preferences -> displays -> color -> HD 709-A

Hope this helps!
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post #2980 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 11:21 AM
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Still can't stream from Netflix. Youtube works fine so it's not the internet connection.

Just got it to work again after signing out and back in.

Last edited by Chris396; 01-01-2015 at 11:46 AM.
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post #2981 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cainman View Post
Picked up the 65H7150 yesterday at Best Buy as an "Open Box" unit. I'm often very leary of open box anything but with the return policy I figured I'd give it a shot. The set was in flawless physical condition with all accessories included. This replaced my 5 year old Samsung LN52A650 that's still operational and will be going in my office.

So far I am simply blown away by the detail this set displays. I used RTINGS.com settings and while they are a little blue the picture definitely looks very good to me on all of my sources. The panel uniformity is very good with no signs of flash lighting (my LN52A650 suffered from this) or cloudiness. I will play around with actually calibrating the set which should resolve the blue push.

Pulled a new firmware down already (2125) I think. Not sure what that did and can't find anything about it might have included.

I have a lot of movie re-watching to do!
Hey I also have the A650 and have been thinking of upgrading. Honestly I"m still quite happy with the 650's picture, just looking to bump up the size (it is 46" so looking at 55").

Would you say there is a noticeable upgrade with the 7150?
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post #2982 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 01:48 PM
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I also picked up a open box. It was 55H7150. I was able to have them turn it on and show me some different content to check out the screen. My screen looks great after calibrating it with setting from this forum.

I got mine for $749, which I thought was a pretty good deal. When I got mine, it was the BF sale period and the sale price for NIB was $999.

Open boxes can be a great deal as long as you put them through the paces to make sure they are ok. They come with the same warranty as the NIB. I used to be a Geek Squad Manager, and most returns were just people not knowing what they were doing or what they wanted from a TV.


There certainly were returns for poor looking screens, but not all are.
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post #2983 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 02:19 PM
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Hear me out, I really want to like this Samsung (75 inch 7150). I really like the black levels, screen finish, motion control and design! The panel I got is quite uniform except for a case of flashing on the top left and bottom left corners which rears its ugly head whenever dark scenes present themselves in those areas. Turning down the backlight to six or seven reduces the problem but certainly does not eliminate it. But as I said earlier, since I have experienced a couple of Sony televisions in my quest to find the "perfect" television (it doesn't exist) I have come to the conclusion that Sony has a better picture quality according to my personal experience and opinion.

I always set the Sony to movie mode and warm2 settings so it's not a case of me wanting or preferring an ultra-vivid cold color temperature. I'm actually happy that the Sony doesn't have an in-depth color management system because quite frankly it does not need it. Sony has the color right out-of-the-box and there is little to no need to adjust or manage the color outside of adjusting the "color" setting a couple of degrees. Sony televisions do have a white balance adjustment that can be used to correct the orange tinge in the Reds but after about 10 min. of watching the television you become quickly adjusted to the slight error and you really don't notice it anymore.

I have played around with the Samsung in relation to settings and color management and frankly have just given up. I have tried a number of different setting suggestions in these threads including yours and they all just seem to turn out the same. With the Samsung the result for me is generally an overall yellow tinge to every color but blue. Skin tones seem yellow, greens seem yellow, etc. Don't get me wrong, the Samsung is a beautiful TV and does a wonderful job but I just think that Sony does a better job in regards to picture quality and color accuracy at least for my tastes. :-) :-)

I'm going to be trying the Sony KDL65W850A as it is being delivered hopefully by the end of this week. I've heard some great things about it and I'm hoping that there won't be any major issues with screen uniformity on this particular unit. I've tried the KDL70W840B which I found to be a spectacular television with only two flaws. The first was the radial banding (which wasn't very severe on my set) and the second was the Motion Flow xr240 wasn't quite enough to keep up with fast movements (this is something the Samsung does very well). I also tried the KDL65W950B which I found to be extremely good in every way except for the black levels due to the IPS panel. I would have kept it if it weren't for that. In fact, if the W850A doesn't work out, I'm just going to go back to that television and live with the poor black levels as it excels in every other way.
I do hear you. We are certainly all pursuing the best picture quality we can get from our TV's, and everyone tries to get the best performance and bang for the buck. The H7150 is one of the better TV's of 2014, and especially in larger size (like the 75" I went for) it is a great value. A TV that would top it's performance in that size would be practically double in price and start at $6K+, forcing 4K resolution (which I find unnecessary at this point), etc.

Now in terms of color accuracy and overall performance, I find it hard to believe you would be better served with a similarly priced Sony TV as of today, especially a model with not the greatest black levels or contrast ratio. The yellowish tint you mention on your Samsung is certainly correctable with proper calibration, although surprising that it would be as prominent as you seem to experience even without calibration. Maybe you really have a somewhat "off" or defective panel in some way, but likely you just need a properly calibrated grayscale (copying other settings does not guarantee such correction at all btw. and is not a sign of something being wrong with your TV or necessarily needing replacement). Interestingly, the orange-pushed red on Sony is something you can get used to but not the likely correctable yellowish tint of your Samsung set... Be that as it may, I would certainly think twice about giving up on calibrating out the yellowish tint and sacrificing in contrast and black level (apart from motion handling and achievable color accuracy), which are probably THE most important aspects of good picture quality...

I say this as something I would suggest to anyone and with best intentions, not as a fan of Samsung or having anything against Sony at all - (if it was up to me, we would actually still have Panasonic plasmas on the market). Sony does offer some good TV's, especially in the high price bracket. Their color accuracy is relatively good out of the box, I agree, although not as "perfect" as one can achieve on a Samsung, which is btw. particularly known for fantastic color accuracy. Also (as a side note), the grayscale adjustments on a Sony are unlikely to have much effect on a tint of red color specifically. So if you are looking for color accuracy, going away from Samsung (and to a TV that doesn't even offer color tuning) is likely not the right move (I would view the yellowish tint as an anomaly, which if not correctable with some grayscale tweaks suggests a replacement under warranty as appropriate...).

In the end, I hope you make the right choice that will make you enjoy your TV, whichever model or brand it may end up being. My only advice is not to perceive your TV as bad or defective because some shared settings didn't translate on your panel and didn't correct some yellowish tint - that only mans your TV needs it's own proper settings. If truly defective, I'd just replace it under warranty rather than go for less contrast, or worse black levels, etc. Anyway, certainly good luck in your final decision
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post #2984 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 02:47 PM
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Hey Everyone, Just picked up a 60"7150 a few days ago and still trying the different settings. Coming from a Samsung LN52A750R Plasma to this TV is quite a letdown. Anyway my question is I cannot get the sound to play from any apps. I get sound from the STB Dish network through my Receiver, but nothing when I play Netflix, Amazon, Youtube, no sound. I have tried resetting and other things but no luck. Any ideas?
Thanks Bob.
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post #2985 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mazda88 View Post
Hey Everyone, Just picked up a 60"7150 a few days ago and still trying the different settings. Coming from a Samsung LN52A750R Plasma to this TV is quite a letdown. Anyway my question is I cannot get the sound to play from any apps. I get sound from the STB Dish network through my Receiver, but nothing when I play Netflix, Amazon, Youtube, no sound. I have tried resetting and other things but no luck. Any ideas?
Thanks Bob.
Not knowing how your system is set up I can only guess it's because your TV is set up for external speakers so you'll need to have an optical cable from the TV to your receiver or utilize your television's ARC HDMI port - this will only work if your receiver also has an ARC HDMI port.

ARC works great for getting audio to your receiver for OTA broadcasts and in your case the television's apps.

I think if you study the diagrams in this link you'll be able to understand why your not getting audio and what you need to do to get it to your receiver.

LG 65B8 - Primary
LG 55EG9100 - Bedroom
Sonos Playbase
MS Xbox One S (using strictly as a disk player)
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post #2986 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mazda88 View Post
Hey Everyone, Just picked up a 60"7150 a few days ago and still trying the different settings. Coming from a Samsung LN52A750R Plasma to this TV is quite a letdown. Anyway my question is I cannot get the sound to play from any apps. I get sound from the STB Dish network through my Receiver, but nothing when I play Netflix, Amazon, Youtube, no sound. I have tried resetting and other things but no luck. Any ideas?
Thanks Bob.
You would need to get the 55 or 65" to have a better screen the 60" only comes with a Sharp panel not samsung.

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post #2987 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris396 View Post
Anyone else having trouble with Netflix? I can search things but as soon as I start to watch something I get We're having trouble playing this title right now. Please try again later or select a different title. Netflix on my old LG blueray player works fine so it's the tv or the app.
Yes I am as well.....it only started after my TV auto updated to 2125, for me anyway. Looks like another software update will be needed by Samsung....geez
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post #2988 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 05:26 PM
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Just got the 55" a few days ago to replace my 42" panasonic 9UK plasma and so far I really like it. The viewing angle thing is noticeable for sure, but only if I'm walking past the display. For normal viewing when I'm sitting everything is good.

Right now I'm using these settings from z-mad...the Movie mode one with no wb or color changes. very nice
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post #2989 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by sushinut View Post

Right now I'm using these settings from z-mad...the Movie mode one with no wb or color changes. very nice

You might try modifying those settings a tad. I only say that because everyone's eyesight is a bit different and everyone sits at a slightly different distance from their TV. For example, 'professional' calibration may tell you to set sharpness to near zero. For me, on my 65", sitting about 9.5 ft away, things are just a bit blury when you get anywhere close to zero. Mine stays over 85%...more really and things look nice and sharp with none of those jagged edges you see when you use a calibration disk.


I use mostly the Standard settings, but use Movie for some items.
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post #2990 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 09:14 PM
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If anyone has used this tv for gaming please give me a quick response. I have a ps4 and was wondering what the gaming experience is on this tv. Motion blur, lag, etc. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks
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post #2991 of 5348 Old 01-01-2015, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Leavenfish View Post
You might try modifying those settings a tad. I only say that because everyone's eyesight is a bit different and everyone sits at a slightly different distance from their TV. For example, 'professional' calibration may tell you to set sharpness to near zero. For me, on my 65", sitting about 9.5 ft away, things are just a bit blury when you get anywhere close to zero. Mine stays over 85%...more really and things look nice and sharp with none of those jagged edges you see when you use a calibration disk.


I use mostly the Standard settings, but use Movie for some items.
For what it's worth, here is the link to a previous post regarding sharpness:
SHARPNESS

I couldn't overstate how wrong it is to crank up sharpness to 85%. If you consider that a personal taste that's worth keeping over accuracy of content on your TV, by all means - I just wouldn't quite go out and advertise it or encourage it

Btw. I'd encourage you to look at the picture in a movie theater for example (next chance you get), and imagine you had a remote in your hand. Do you feel you would want to increase the sharpness? If so, why do you think they don't do it in the theater either, or do you think the theaters are all showing us blurry movies? Same can be said for color temp (which certainly isn't corresponding to "standard" on your TV), etc... Just food for thought
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post #2992 of 5348 Old 01-02-2015, 05:58 AM
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Z-mad, any word on the updated calibration settings you said you would be posting? Just trying to see if anything has changed for you since the latest firmware updates. Thanks.
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post #2993 of 5348 Old 01-02-2015, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by enrogue View Post
I just received a new 55" replacement unit from the store (flashighting - new set has same issues.. All four corners - worst in the bottom right - and very uneven lighting on grey or light black backgrounds) and I discovered 2 strange things:

1) Upon initial setup, it indicated it already had the latest firmware installed (the original set I bought 2 weeks ago prompted to install a new update) and when I verified the version it has installed it is '2124'. Strange that the TV would come loaded with the latest version.. Seems implausible. Yet it is a fact.

2) The icon list at the bottom of the smart hub bar already was filled with 'recent apps used' after initialization. When I reset them (last icon to the right) the list reappears upon re-entering the smart hub. The list contains some apps that aren't even installed. Seems like a bug.

I am certain the TV is new and not used. I opened the box myself and upon starting up the TV it ran me through the first time set up.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

EnR
Two of us in the H6350 forum are having similar issues!

My Smart Hub was doing great at software version 2120. My UN75H6350 upgraded to 2122 and thats when the fun began!
I hit my Smart Hub button and I end up with the games "Running Dog", "Board Star" and sometimes VUDU or Social TV shows up, and I can't get rid of them!
I've done Factory Resets, Smart Hub Resets to no avail.
Samsung support logs on to my H6350 and they just scratch their heads...lol
The TV has since upgraded to the latest ver 2125 and sill hasn't been fixed. I love the TV otherwise!
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post #2994 of 5348 Old 01-02-2015, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by milkk View Post
You would need to get the 55 or 65" to have a better screen the 60" only comes with a Sharp panel not samsung.
What evidence is there that the 60" with the sharp panel isnt as good as the smaller or larger units with Samsung panels?
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post #2995 of 5348 Old 01-02-2015, 07:06 AM
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Z-Mad: Curious - how would a professional calibrator calibrate 3D mode on this TV? Obviously, the signal being calibrated is now subjected to changes by the 3D lenses.

Personally, while I found colour and tint to be similar, contrast was remarkably different. Just curious on your thoughts.
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post #2996 of 5348 Old 01-02-2015, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leavenfish View Post
You might try modifying those settings a tad. I only say that because everyone's eyesight is a bit different and everyone sits at a slightly different distance from their TV. For example, 'professional' calibration may tell you to set sharpness to near zero. For me, on my 65", sitting about 9.5 ft away, things are just a bit blury when you get anywhere close to zero. Mine stays over 85%...more really and things look nice and sharp with none of those jagged edges you see when you use a calibration disk.


I use mostly the Standard settings, but use Movie for some items.
Using proper test patterns, you can really see what sharpness does. As Z-Mad's previous post shows, anything above 8-10 is way too high for sharpness. I found 0, on my model, to introduce artificial blurring whereas anything above 10 introducing artefacts (specifically halos) around some aspect of the picture. In the end, 6 appeared best to me and the test patterns I used.
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post #2997 of 5348 Old 01-02-2015, 08:06 AM
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fireballz--

My 650 still works well but beginning to get a little too dark regardless of calibration. I had been looking at moving up to the 60" or 65" bracket for a while. As for a noticeable upgrade going to the 7150 I would have to say resounding YES. In the past couple of days either myself of or my sons have been watching quite a bit of content from cable, Blu-Ray and Apple TV sources and the displayed detail is really impressive when compared to my 650. From what I've read the 55" and 65" may use a Samsung panel where as the 60" may use a Sharp. All part of the "Samsung panel lottery" I guess. I appear to have a good one thus far and am very pleased.

Good luck on your decision.


Quote:
Originally Posted by fireballz View Post
Hey I also have the A650 and have been thinking of upgrading. Honestly I"m still quite happy with the 650's picture, just looking to bump up the size (it is 46" so looking at 55").

Would you say there is a noticeable upgrade with the 7150?
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post #2998 of 5348 Old 01-02-2015, 08:08 AM
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To those of you with th 65H7150, are you still pretty pleased overall with the TV? I'm about to jump on one after debating it and the 60H6400.
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post #2999 of 5348 Old 01-02-2015, 08:15 AM
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To those of you with th 65H7150, are you still pretty pleased overall with the TV? I'm about to jump on one after debating it and the 60H6400.
I love it. Would buy it again in a second.
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post #3000 of 5348 Old 01-02-2015, 08:19 AM
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I love it. Would buy it again in a second.
Sounds good. I went to best buy a few days ago with a thumb drive full of 1080p movie trailers and some grey and black test images. It looked pretty nice to me.

-JT
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Samsung 65H7150
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