Official Samsung UNxxH7150 / UNxxH7100AF Owners Thread - Page 160 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4771 of 5367 Old 04-26-2015, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by venus933 View Post
On my LCD monitor I'm easily seeing clouding issues especially on the upper left hand corner.
Had similar issues with my 7150. No matter what I did I could not get rid of the light coming from the corners. I did however get rid of the clouding on the screen via rubbing. I just bought myself a Plasma and it has fixed every single issue I've had color wise with the 7150. Returning the 7150 today.
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post #4772 of 5367 Old 04-26-2015, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ppmanguin View Post
I think you're already served but if you are talking about the 2015 J6300 1080p model, you should definitely get 2014's H7150. Not only is image quality better, it also has better looks to match. Also, it's very sad that anyone would spend thousands of dollars on a tv and get THIS kind of remote, in 2015. I think you get the point.



This model is really the best deal for any of us who is not into buying the latest depreciating asset when the technology is immature. I was fortunate enough to get a price match and a 15% price beat on top sale price making the biggest size a no-brainer; it was money well spent. Already have eyes on a Sony SXRD projection setup 'cause 75" still isn't shocking enough. Gotta beat the WAF though
If you don't mind sharing, where did you buy your TV from? I've been looking at the 6350 but recently started looking at this model. I've tried price matching with a couple stores and they all shut me down.

Thanks for any help.
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post #4773 of 5367 Old 04-26-2015, 07:17 PM
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60" Model - jagged/pixelly horizontal lines

I've had my 60 inch H7150 TV for a few months now and generally liked it. But one specific thing has been bothering me, and I figure I might as well see if anybody else has the same problem!

On my panel, horizontal lines/gradients with sharp contrast look pixelated: if I look really close, I can see that the red and green subpixels don't seem aligned across columns - they are offset at a subpixel level, and that affects the horizontal line because it's not a straight horizontal line with identical colors by design. That sub-pixel offset might not sound like a lot, but it's noticeable at my viewing distance. Gray lines on the PS4 are a mix of several colored pixels in a crosshatch pattern, instead of the same uniformly gray pixel column after column. Once again, that is noticeable to me - if I stand further away, all colors blend together. But at my viewing distance (with is in the TXH-recommended range) I notice it. I would post pictures, but I haven't used this forum before and I'm not allowed to attach or link to images.

That said: if you know what I'm talking about, the description is probably enough. So, have any owners of the 60" model noticed this, as well? The size is important, because according to Rtings.com, all H7150 models have Samsung panels (so no panel lottery) - EXCEPT for the 60" models, which have Sharp panels (supposedly, Samsung doesn't make even any 60" panels for any series). My TV has a HH01 panel, to be precise. I'm doing a 1-1 1080p pixel mapping with no overscan, have turned off all other potential image "enhancers" (I think) and have calibrated the TV with the Spears & Munsil disc. I have several other Samsung TVs in the office and checked out showfloors as well - I haven't seen the behavior I'm describing here on other TVs (except for the UN60H7150 that I looked at at Best Buy).

Any outside experiences would be appreciated. This isn't killing my enjoyment of the TV. But it's bothersome, anyway.
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post #4774 of 5367 Old 04-27-2015, 11:25 AM
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I finally calibrated my new TV using Z-Mad's daytime 3/11 specs. Significant improvement over out-of -the-box setup. I'm still missing my beloved 59" Samsung plasma. That was a beautiful picture.

I tried the Netflix app and it froze four times before I gave up trying to watch Daredevil. I downloaded the Amazon cloud player and the only thing I got was a grey screen. I watched Nextlix using my Oppo and it was flawless. I thought this was a mature player with no major smart hub issues. Am I wrong?
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post #4775 of 5367 Old 04-28-2015, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by eldorado01 View Post
I finally calibrated my new TV using Z-Mad's daytime 3/11 specs. Significant improvement over out-of -the-box setup. I'm still missing my beloved 59" Samsung plasma. That was a beautiful picture.

I tried the Netflix app and it froze four times before I gave up trying to watch Daredevil. I downloaded the Amazon cloud player and the only thing I got was a grey screen. I watched Nextlix using my Oppo and it was flawless. I thought this was a mature player with no major smart hub issues. Am I wrong?

My Netflix and amazon instant players work flawlessly. Watch the whole daredevil season 1 using my TV app actually. I do have the latest fw update for my tv just fyi.
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post #4776 of 5367 Old 04-30-2015, 07:29 AM
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Can the IR Device be Used to Control Multiple Devices?

I realize it can be used for a single device such as a cable box or DVD player (which I have done myself), but can you park the IR device in front of multiple components to control them…?

And if so, what are the limitations regarding placement of the IR device and/or the components…?

I would think trying to control more than one component would be problematic since a "Fast Forward" button is used for more than one component. In other words, only so many buttons for so many actions…

I haven't found much info regarding the IR device. Any thoughts?
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post #4777 of 5367 Old 05-04-2015, 06:40 AM
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Largest Gamut?

I just got this TV. I am trying to find a color gamut that is bigger then the required Rec709. However, it seems that this TV has its gamut controller to very close the required rec 709 standard? I tried Dynamic, standard, movie with color space at all three options. Auto, Native and Custom. All seems to follow very closely to the Rec709 gamut. The reason I am looking for a colorspace that is larger then required is that I am trying to use lightspace to calibrate my 3dLut. I was told that LS works best if the colorspace at the start is larger then required.
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post #4778 of 5367 Old 05-04-2015, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oliverlim View Post
I just got this TV. I am trying to find a color gamut that is bigger then the required Rec709. However, it seems that this TV has its gamut controller to very close the required rec 709 standard? I tried Dynamic, standard, movie with color space at all three options. Auto, Native and Custom. All seems to follow very closely to the Rec709 gamut. The reason I am looking for a colorspace that is larger then required is that I am trying to use lightspace to calibrate my 3dLut. I was told that LS works best if the colorspace at the start is larger then required.
When I calibrated my set, I noticed it was close to Rec709 as well. I don't think adjusting RGB values in the CMS expanded the colorspace either.
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post #4779 of 5367 Old 05-04-2015, 10:59 AM
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Returned my 65-7100 to Costco over the weekend (TH01), could not justify spending that money for something with such bad corner bleeding (tried all the fixes nothing helped), I just dont get how flashlighting and edgebleeding are acceptable in any form......back to my 50" M series until I can find a panel I am happy with for my main theatre area.......
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post #4780 of 5367 Old 05-04-2015, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eldorado01 View Post
I finally calibrated my new TV using Z-Mad's daytime 3/11 specs. Significant improvement over out-of -the-box setup. I'm still missing my beloved 59" Samsung plasma. That was a beautiful picture.

I tried the Netflix app and it froze four times before I gave up trying to watch Daredevil. I downloaded the Amazon cloud player and the only thing I got was a grey screen. I watched Nextlix using my Oppo and it was flawless. I thought this was a mature player with no major smart hub issues. Am I wrong?

At first , I had the exact same problem ... I tried to use the TV internet app for browsing and it froze a few times ... Netflix was ok, thou . So, I unplugged the TV power cord for a couple of minutes , put it back on and it was ok from then on (?) . No problems anymore after that , and this happened a month ago . It has been ok online since then . Now I can browse online easily and no more freezing . What happened I have no idea but unplugging it fixed the damn thing for good .
I also get Netflix 5.1 surround perfectly with 1080 video on most of it all the time ... 720 only on a few movies but 5.1 is flawless , no problem there at all .

Last edited by josey88; 05-04-2015 at 12:59 PM.
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post #4781 of 5367 Old 05-04-2015, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Loftus View Post
I realize it can be used for a single device such as a cable box or DVD player (which I have done myself), but can you park the IR device in front of multiple components to control them…?

And if so, what are the limitations regarding placement of the IR device and/or the components…?

I would think trying to control more than one component would be problematic since a "Fast Forward" button is used for more than one component. In other words, only so many buttons for so many actions…

I haven't found much info regarding the IR device. Any thoughts?
Yes, it can control multiple components. Mine controls the apple tv, cable box, and AV receiver all via the IR blaster sitting in front of them. I tried putting it behind some of them to see if the signal could bounce around the room and work but it wouldn't - it has to be in front of them with direct line of sight.

The remote knows which component it should be controlling via the TV SOURCE it is on. So if I'm on SOURCE: HDMI 1: Apple TV, the remote controls the Apple TV. If I'm on SOURCE: HDMI 1: Cable, it controls the cable box. The reason they are both on HDMI 1 is that they are both plugged into the AV receiver. The annoying thing that the smart remote CAN'T do it change AV receiver inputs automatically - there's no way to tell it what input each component is plugged into in the AV receiver. The only away around this (other than using a Harmony Remote or something), is to use the smart remote to bring up the on-screen remote and use that to press the "HTS Source" button (Home Theater System Source), which will cycle through the AV receiver inputs.

I'm still really on the fence about whether to continue using the smart remote (it's small and bluetooth and has that nice pointer thing) or just use a harmony (can control everything in every way, but needs line of site).

Hope this helps.

-=B=-
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post #4782 of 5367 Old 05-05-2015, 06:05 AM
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Started watching the Star Wars movies with the wife. I have to say the color accuracy on this TV is quite wonderful. I mean its not Calibrated PIO wonderful but darn close.

Media Room= GoldenEar Supersat 60s/GE 60c/BP7004s/SuperCubeII/A-60s/Pio-SC-95
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post #4783 of 5367 Old 05-05-2015, 07:11 AM
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My tv showed an announcement, the "On TV" is going away June 1 to be replaced by the 2015 version. The "On TV" is the screen menu that shows the tv apps when the tv is turned on.
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post #4784 of 5367 Old 05-05-2015, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by brazilmma View Post
Yes, it can control multiple components. Mine controls the apple tv, cable box, and AV receiver all via the IR blaster sitting in front of them. I tried putting it behind some of them to see if the signal could bounce around the room and work but it wouldn't - it has to be in front of them with direct line of sight.

The remote knows which component it should be controlling via the TV SOURCE it is on. So if I'm on SOURCE: HDMI 1: Apple TV, the remote controls the Apple TV. If I'm on SOURCE: HDMI 1: Cable, it controls the cable box. The reason they are both on HDMI 1 is that they are both plugged into the AV receiver. The annoying thing that the smart remote CAN'T do it change AV receiver inputs automatically - there's no way to tell it what input each component is plugged into in the AV receiver. The only away around this (other than using a Harmony Remote or something), is to use the smart remote to bring up the on-screen remote and use that to press the "HTS Source" button (Home Theater System Source), which will cycle through the AV receiver inputs.

I'm still really on the fence about whether to continue using the smart remote (it's small and bluetooth and has that nice pointer thing) or just use a harmony (can control everything in every way, but needs line of site).

Hope this helps.

-=B=-
It did help! I'm surprised that I have not found any information on it anywhere… strange.

Thanks!
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post #4785 of 5367 Old 05-07-2015, 06:54 AM
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i still use a harmony one... its about 14 yrs old.. and still kickin!...

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post #4786 of 5367 Old 05-07-2015, 07:11 AM
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Just got my 60 inch H7150 yesterday. Very little flashlighting, and the overall screen uniformity is fantastic.
I calibrated with the Disney WOW bluray, and it's looking pretty good, however, there is still room for a little improvement.

Does anyone have a quick link to all the Calibration settings that were posted in this thread? I saw it a few weeks ago, but can't seem to find it in the 4000 posts
If I recall, someone had posted a Dropbox or GoogleDoc with everyone's settings
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post #4787 of 5367 Old 05-07-2015, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Stormshadow4life View Post
Just got my 60 inch H7150 yesterday. Very little flashlighting, and the overall screen uniformity is fantastic.
I calibrated with the Disney WOW bluray, and it's looking pretty good, however, there is still room for a little improvement.

Does anyone have a quick link to all the Calibration settings that were posted in this thread? I saw it a few weeks ago, but can't seem to find it in the 4000 posts
If I recall, someone had posted a Dropbox or GoogleDoc with everyone's settings

Found it

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ce1hbgqkxw...ions.xlsx?dl=0
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post #4788 of 5367 Old 05-07-2015, 10:09 AM
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I just noticed (when my tv was off) that it seems like some of the black film on my tv was coming off. It looked like some masking tape was on the tv. Once I got closer, some of the black film came off the tv, its now a gray spot.

When the tv is on you cant see it. I bought the TV in July, should i call Samsung.

PS I live alone with no pets
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post #4789 of 5367 Old 05-08-2015, 06:00 AM
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I would worst case they say no. Best case. new tv.

Media Room= GoldenEar Supersat 60s/GE 60c/BP7004s/SuperCubeII/A-60s/Pio-SC-95
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post #4790 of 5367 Old 05-08-2015, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Crstfr View Post
i still use a harmony one... its about 14 yrs old.. and still kickin!...
You have a Harmony, but certainly not the Harmony One if it's 14 years old... Harmony One came out in 2008, IIRC.
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post #4791 of 5367 Old 05-08-2015, 02:16 PM
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I would worst case they say no. Best case. new tv.
Good point
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post #4792 of 5367 Old 05-08-2015, 06:12 PM
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You have a Harmony, but certainly not the Harmony One if it's 14 years old... Harmony One came out in 2008, IIRC.
Dog years maybe but I was thinking the same lol because I replaced my Harmony One last year and I know I didn't have it for 14 years lol.

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post #4793 of 5367 Old 05-09-2015, 01:38 PM
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stand corrected...

Quote:
Originally Posted by WDFan1970 View Post
Make sure you're CLOSE to the TV. No more than a few feet away.



That's not correct. A quick "Press" just turns the glasses on/off. One must hold the button down for several seconds to start the pairing.
true. it shut it off from on. also you may want to have the glasses really close to the tv. If your using blutooth. And maybe check for other devices that emitting blutooth.

PS3+4---> CHiNGOBLiNG ; XB1X -->cata1= RUBEN...YOU NEED TO OPEN YOUR EYES TO SEE THE PICTURE!!... "SHOE MAKER HOME THEATER".7/22/16....just a KLIPSCH NUT..>7/22/16...2new videos show..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWO0YtCWQxI.....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIen05Wcg9w. u can even look from when I started about to present day.... i stutter sometimes....
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post #4794 of 5367 Old 05-10-2015, 09:14 AM
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Hello. There are 4 hdmi inputs in the back of the tv. 1- stb 2- arc 3- no name 4- dvi

What are the differences ? Which one should I use ?
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post #4795 of 5367 Old 05-11-2015, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by dohanotoha View Post
Hello. There are 4 hdmi inputs in the back of the tv. 1- stb 2- arc 3- no name 4- dvi

What are the differences ? Which one should I use ?
I know that HDMI is meant for your cable set top box.
But I'd also like to know the differences.

Currently, I have
1- Cablebox
2- XboxOne
3- PS4
4- video streamer/player
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post #4796 of 5367 Old 05-11-2015, 06:57 AM
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In a similar vein, I'd like to know if it matters what you name the input. for example if you name it PC or Game, will it be treated differently if you name it cable box.
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post #4797 of 5367 Old 05-11-2015, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by dohanotoha View Post
Hello. There are 4 hdmi inputs in the back of the tv. 1- stb 2- arc 3- no name 4- dvi

What are the differences ? Which one should I use ?
As I understand they are all the same with regard to connecting a source to the TV.
The exception is the one that has ARC.

A.R.C. http://hdguru.com/what-is-hdmi-arc-a...for-your-hdtv/
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post #4798 of 5367 Old 05-11-2015, 11:14 AM
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good info @Teeps

Thank you

Media Room= GoldenEar Supersat 60s/GE 60c/BP7004s/SuperCubeII/A-60s/Pio-SC-95
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post #4799 of 5367 Old 05-12-2015, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by barth2k View Post
In a similar vein, I'd like to know if it matters what you name the input. for example if you name it PC or Game, will it be treated differently if you name it cable box.
There's more discussion of it earlier in this thread (a lot to look through, I know), but basically, PC and Game do less image processing and are supposed to have less lag time than other modes.
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post #4800 of 5367 Old 05-13-2015, 04:21 AM
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I was just curious to get some feedback on the 60" version of this model. It seems a big box store is starting to cut their inventory and the price has dropped to below $1000. At this price is it the best option for this size?
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