Official Samsung UNxxH7150 / UNxxH7100AF Owners Thread - Page 177 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5281 of 5371 Old 07-08-2017, 12:01 PM
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Thanks for posting these updated calibrations Z-Mad. Still loving my set after 2.5 years! Do you have any 3D calibrations you could post?
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post #5282 of 5371 Old 07-08-2017, 01:38 PM
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And here is finally also the STANDARD mode for gaming. Mind you, this is the simplified Standard mode that allows only 2-point grayscale calibration, when the Source is set to "PC" (the mode with lowest input lag on this TV, thus the best mode for gaming). But even with just the 2-point grayscale adjustment, the result is good, grayscale and colors are quite accurate, and the games look great with these settings:

SOURCE: PC
--Picture menu--
Mode: Standard
Backlight: 8 (one can go up or down a few notches depending on viewing environment, day or nighttime, etc.)
Contrast: 96
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 50 (when TV is in PC mode, this is the correct sharpness setting)
Color: [grayed out]
Tint: [grayed out]

3D submenu: N/A

PIP: N/A

--Advanced settings--
Dynamic contrast: [grayed out]
Black tone: [grayed out]
Flesh tone: [grayed out]
RGB Only Mode: [grayed out]
Color space: [grayed out]
White Balance: [see below]
10p White Balance: [grayed out]
Gamma: -1
Motion Lighting: Off [grayed out]

--Color Space--
N/A [grayed out]

White balance:
2 Point:
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: -1
B-Offset: -5
R-Gain: +3
G-Gain: -4
B-Gain: -9

10 Point:
N/A [grayed out]

--Picture options--
Color tone: Warm2
Digital Clean View: [grayed out]
MPEG Noise Filter: [grayed out]
HDMI black level: Low
Film mode: [grayed out]
Auto Motion Plus: [grayed out]
Cinema Black: [grayed out]
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post #5283 of 5371 Old 07-08-2017, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrachris View Post
Thanks for posting these updated calibrations Z-Mad. Still loving my set after 2.5 years! Do you have any 3D calibrations you could post?
Hey cobrachris, indeed still plenty to enjoy on this TV. Happy to share the settings, and hopefully they help and translate well for most... but didn't do any 3D calibration. A bit of a hassle honestly, for the fact that I never use it... I don't mind watching a 3D movie in the theatre, but just never got into it at home... If I at some point get myself to do it, I'll certainly post the settings...
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post #5284 of 5371 Old 07-10-2017, 01:04 AM
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Same here. I might have to try the first two out. I too still love this TV, especially since I'm sill a hardcore 3D er and it does a marvelous job. I wish I could get a tv with 4K HDR and 3D, but I think in a year from now, no 3D will be found. I think like less than 5 now might have this and don't really need 4K just yet.

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post #5285 of 5371 Old 07-24-2017, 01:13 PM
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So we were finally forced to upgrade the X1 system from Xfinity and now my overall picture quality is awful again. Does anyone have a decent setup for this? I may try ZMAD's settings from earlier this month. We watched Game of Thrones the last two weeks and it makes me feel like I need glasses. Everything is soft focused and blurry and a lot of degradation in the picture when a dark scene is on. It's highly irritating since I had it set up great on the old Scientific Atlantic boxes we had. Nothing looks right now with the settings that worked great for the old box. I may have to go back into the main calibration again, but not sure what to tweak. Streaming BTW looks MUCH better quality wise, but still needs a bit of tweaking. It could be the signal is just Comcrap-tastic too. All signal strengths were within range for the X1 platform when I last checked as well.

Any suggestions appreciated.

EDIT: Even after changing the settings a bit to ZMAD's calibrations, everything seems washed out. The colors are very muted and grey-ish. Gives a fuzzy sort of feel as well, almost like soft focus. As for the quality, I'm convinced that the X1 is a compression issue. If I stream with the same settings it's a lot clearer and sharper image wise. Any suggestions on bumping up the colors?

Last edited by Strycker; 07-25-2017 at 11:28 AM.
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post #5286 of 5371 Old 07-25-2017, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post
After quite a while, I finally took the time to give the H7150 some "attention" again and recalibrate various modes. Sure enough, some shifting did occur to where the tweaks were needed to get to the most accurate picture... Even took the time to finally calibrate the standard mode for gaming (source set as "PC"). Wondered if I should even post the settings, and if anyone is even still checking this thread lol, but figured may as well...

I'm still checking this thread! Thanks for these settings. I was starting to notice some fairly excessive banding in dark areas with tv programming (especially in GoT). I look forward to trying the new movie mode calibration out!

As an aside, with color tone set to warm 2 everything seems a bit off too me, almost too saturated, and whites definitely have a slight yellowish (warm) cast to them. It looks much more natural to me in standard color tone. Is that because that's what I'm used to watching it in? I'll pull out my disney WoW blu-ray tomorrow to check it out.

| Samsung UN55H7150 | NVIDIA Shield TV Pro | Denon AVR-X4000 | Boston Acoustics Lynnfield VR 950 mains, VR 10 center, NHT Superzero 2.1 surrounds | Ultimax 18" powered by a Crown XLS 1502 |
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post #5287 of 5371 Old 07-28-2017, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by NINaudio View Post
I'm still checking this thread! Thanks for these settings. I was starting to notice some fairly excessive banding in dark areas with tv programming (especially in GoT). I look forward to trying the new movie mode calibration out!

As an aside, with color tone set to warm 2 everything seems a bit off too me, almost too saturated, and whites definitely have a slight yellowish (warm) cast to them. It looks much more natural to me in standard color tone. Is that because that's what I'm used to watching it in? I'll pull out my disney WoW blu-ray tomorrow to check it out.
Glad to share the settings and hopefully they help...
Btw., the answer is yes, the reason the whites appear "yellowish" to you at first is simply because you are used to seeing the far too bluish whites otherwise. This is a very common and rather natural initial perception. If you give it some time, after a while if you switch back to standard, you'll notice how "bluish" the whites are, same as you are now perceiving them as "yellowish" The fact is the color temp and the gray-scale are exactly correct as calibrated with warm 2. White is calibrated exactly on the money, so it's just a matter of perception till you start realizing there is nothing yellowish to it, and the white is as pure as it gets without bluish or other tint...
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post #5288 of 5371 Old 07-28-2017, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post
Glad to share the settings and hopefully they help...
Btw., the answer is yes, the reason the whites appear "yellowish" to you at first is simply because you are used to seeing the far too bluish whites otherwise. This is a very common and rather natural initial perception. If you give it some time, after a while if you switch back to standard, you'll notice how "bluish" the whites are, same as you are now perceiving them as "yellowish" The fact is the color temp and the gray-scale are exactly correct as calibrated with warm 2. White is calibrated exactly on the money, so it's just a matter of perception till you start realizing there is nothing yellowish to it, and the white is as pure as it gets without bluish or other tint...
Thanks Z-mad. I've been watching on Warm 1 since the other day when watching GoT and I thought "Wow, that snow looks too blue" in order to get myself more used to it before I move to warm 2. :-)

I use an older calibration product from Pantone on my PC screens, that calibrates my monitors. The more I use them the more I feel that standard looked too blue. I wish there was a similar product for TV's! I'm sure that one day when I have more disposable income I will end up looking into the calman options for measuring and adjusting your own tv.

| Samsung UN55H7150 | NVIDIA Shield TV Pro | Denon AVR-X4000 | Boston Acoustics Lynnfield VR 950 mains, VR 10 center, NHT Superzero 2.1 surrounds | Ultimax 18" powered by a Crown XLS 1502 |
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post #5289 of 5371 Old 07-28-2017, 08:50 PM
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hi all,
my Samsung UN55H7150 has DIED!!!

This TV set recently starting having flickering issues towards the top portion of the screen. Then out of nowhere it has just died. Tried calling Samsung to at least offer to cover parts on the repair. My attempt failed.

Has anyones set just died w/ similar symptoms? I'm reluctant to repair if it's something like the main mother board. I'd be in for $500 on the repair and i'd probably be better off buying a new set.

TIA
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post #5290 of 5371 Old 08-04-2017, 11:51 AM
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Just curious if there is a way for me to launch the netflix "app" or whatever it is easier than going through the smarthub?

I do have a harmony ultiamte remote so I am trying to see if that can be programmed but I can't find anything yet. Hoping someone here has done similar.
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post #5291 of 5371 Old 09-04-2017, 08:35 AM
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Just a quick a question, not sure if this is the right thread for it but will give it a go as had much great advice from you all before for settings and what not.

I'm looking to sell on my lovely Samsung UN55H7150 and move to a new set. Anyone have any idea what I should be charging for it or a resource that might be able to help out (I appreciate it won't be much but it all helps)?

Thanks in advance.
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post #5292 of 5371 Old 09-04-2017, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by LenH View Post
Just a quick a question, not sure if this is the right thread for it but will give it a go as had much great advice from you all before for settings and what not.

I'm looking to sell on my lovely Samsung UN55H7150 and move to a new set. Anyone have any idea what I should be charging for it or a resource that might be able to help out (I appreciate it won't be much but it all helps)?

Thanks in advance.
Not 55, 65, oops. UN65H7150
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post #5293 of 5371 Old 09-10-2017, 12:00 PM
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/tumbleweed

Ebay seems to suggest anywhere between 500 - 800 so will take a go somewhere in the middle with that.
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post #5294 of 5371 Old 09-17-2017, 09:34 AM
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Can someone post audio tv settings? PCM or Dolby? Audio delay is 90 by default. Normal, movie or amplify sound?

I connect my tv to pc via hdmi and i see 1080p movies. (5+gb).


Z-Mad, why do you have Motion Plus Clear and not off?

Last edited by lazostat; 09-17-2017 at 09:38 AM.
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post #5295 of 5371 Old 09-18-2017, 07:02 PM
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My tv just auto-updated to firmware 2200. UGH.

Anyone have a clue what changed ?

BUT:
My Bluetooth headphones stopped working. I get the menu beeps, but no tv program audio. (Tried re connecting, etc). It's been working for 2 years.

Ok....figured it out: Turn tv volume all the way down. Then Connect headphones. Then set tv Audio BACK to tv speakers, Sound now goes thru headphones.

Dang Samsung. Grrrrr
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post #5296 of 5371 Old 09-18-2017, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter- View Post
My tv just auto-updated to firmware 2200. UGH.

Anyone have a clue what changed ?

BUT:
My Bluetooth headphones stopped working. I get the menu beeps, but no tv program audio. (Tried re connecting, etc). It's been working for 2 years.

Ok....figured it out: Turn tv volume all the way down. Then Connect headphones. Then set tv Audio BACK to tv speakers, Sound now goes thru headphones.

Dang Samsung. Grrrrr
Update: My workaround, also requires the tv to be turned offf an d back on to get tv speakers back.

Maybe someone has a better workaround/steps.
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post #5297 of 5371 Old 09-19-2017, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter- View Post
My tv just auto-updated to firmware 2200. UGH.

Anyone have a clue what changed ?

BUT:
My Bluetooth headphones stopped working. I get the menu beeps, but no tv program audio. (Tried re connecting, etc). It's been working for 2 years.

Ok....figured it out: Turn tv volume all the way down. Then Connect headphones. Then set tv Audio BACK to tv speakers, Sound now goes thru headphones.

Dang Samsung. Grrrrr
Yeah, it would be nice for them to at least put out release notes ahead of time. No idea what this will do. Probably just removes more apps from the smart hub.
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post #5298 of 5371 Old 09-29-2017, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazostat View Post
Can someone post audio tv settings? PCM or Dolby? Audio delay is 90 by default. Normal, movie or amplify sound?

I connect my tv to pc via hdmi and i see 1080p movies. (5+gb).


Z-Mad, why do you have Motion Plus Clear and not off?
lazostat, I find the 'Clear' setting to be acceptable, as it does improve motion resolution, especially for faster moving scenes and on a large screen such as the 75", while it does not introduce too much of noticeable SOE (just slightly, but something you stop noticing rather quickly, as it is very subtle). Of course, for the ultimately most accurate film cadence, you would turn it off, which is of course fine. I certainly would not recommend using any other Motion Plus setting, apart from either 'Clear' for a bit extra motion resolution, or ultimately 'off'.

Also, for the audio delay setting, I set mine on zero - no delay, which is perfect. You would use anything else than zero only if you are indeed experiencing synchronization issue depending on your sources... Start at zero and see if there is even any need to adjust...

Last edited by Z-Mad; 09-29-2017 at 02:59 PM.
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post #5299 of 5371 Old 10-18-2017, 05:49 AM
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Soooo, my previously lovely UN46H7150 that had excellent color after I calibrated it is now showing a very noticeable darkening in the middle 70% of the screen (going from center to left or right). The outer 15% horizontally shows correct colors while the rest is darker, leaning toward a more yellowish white than white white. Anyone know of a way to nix this or what the cause might be? This TV is only three years old and shouldn't be doing this. My seven year old UN32C6500 still has great color despite its age, yet this newer and supposedly better TV just looks awful now.

It's kind of a major setback considering I still have to replace my RX-A3000 with a comparable AVR and being as I hate Audyssey with a passion, my choices are limited there too.
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post #5300 of 5371 Old 10-24-2017, 05:26 PM
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Has anyone had trouble with ARC all of a sudden not working? I was successfully using ARC to my Onkyo receiver for years. Now it just doesn't work.

I've tried disabling then re-enabling Anynet. Cannot figure out how to get it working again.

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post #5301 of 5371 Old 10-25-2017, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Christopher_H View Post
Has anyone had trouble with ARC all of a sudden not working? I was successfully using ARC to my Onkyo receiver for years. Now it just doesn't work.

I've tried disabling then re-enabling Anynet. Cannot figure out how to get it working again.
Never used ARC on mine, but time for normal troubleshooting:

try a different cable
connect the receiver to another ARC enabled device
Or
TV to another ARC enabled receiver

Replace TV mainboard... or time for new TV.

Cheers, Tp

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post #5302 of 5371 Old 10-29-2017, 09:38 AM
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Wondered if I should even post the settings, and if anyone is even still checking this thread lol, but figured may as well...
I haven't looked on here lately but thank you I'm going to try these settings. I was looking for firmware updates on the TV and all I see on Samsungs website was DEC 20,2016 - ver. 2170.2 . But under the TV's update menu it's already updated to 2200. Anyways... Thanks for revisiting with new settings.
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post #5303 of 5371 Old 10-29-2017, 09:43 PM
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Service Menu Settings (press mute 1 8 2 power)<br>
Option<br>
Mrt option<br>
Front color u-m-v-7k<br>
Lvds format jeida<br>
Wifi region S<br>
OTN support on<br>
OTA support off<br>
Media play dlna --<br>
Number of PVR Record 0<br>
Select LCD/PDP. LCD<br>
E-pop default on<br>
Camera support off<br>
3d support on<br>
Bt support on<br>
Bt address :not shown<br>
Smart control support on<br><br>
Control<br>
Edid off<br><br>
SVC<br>
Option hdmi<br>
Dvi hdmi sound -auto<br>
Hdmi hot plug disable<br>
Hot plug switching source<br>
Clk term duration 1200ms<br>
Hdmi flt cnt sig 100ms<br>
Hdmi flt cnt Los 100ms<br>
Unstable ban cnt 5000ms<br>
Hdmi robin on<br>
Hdmi callback off<br>
Hdmi cts thld 8<br>
Hdmi cts cnt1 1<br>
Hdmi eq auto<br>
Dvi set time 300ms<br>
Hdmi sync DE<br><br><br>
ADC / WB<br>
ADC result all 0's<br>
White balance<br>
R off 128<br>
G off 128<br>
B off 128<br>
R Gain 130<br>
G Gain 128<br>
B Gain 171<br>
Rest are unselectable
PLEASE DO NOT USE THE SETTINGS ABOVE. Yes I am an idiot for touching my service menu, so please don't be me and touch the service menu. I now will have to likely pay $250 bucks to get my tv serviced.
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post #5304 of 5371 Old 10-31-2017, 10:04 PM
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I take it nobody has experienced the color shifting in the center portion of the screen before? It doesn't appear to be dirt on the outside of the screen given how many times I've attempted to "clean" the area.

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post #5305 of 5371 Old 11-05-2017, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Squishy Tia View Post
I take it nobody has experienced the color shifting in the center portion of the screen before? It doesn't appear to be dirt on the outside of the screen given how many times I've attempted to "clean" the area.
It looks like the typical "dirty screen" effect, which is unfortunately somewhat inherent to large screen edge lit LED's. The rear reflection plate may not be reflecting and distributing light correctly and evenly... Did you move the TV recently or wall mount it? This can affect the clouding or dirty screen effects on this TV... Try literally tilting the TV a bit and tapping it lightly in the affected area. Some have managed to "massage out" similar effects with a microfiber cloth - not very promising or professional I know, but probably the only thing you could try and see if there is any effect... Do you still have extended warranty on it? If so, I'd try a warranty claim... Good luck...
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post #5306 of 5371 Old 11-05-2017, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post
It looks like the typical "dirty screen" effect, which is unfortunately somewhat inherent to large screen edge lit LED's. The rear reflection plate may not be reflecting and distributing light correctly and evenly... Did you move the TV recently or wall mount it? This can affect the clouding or dirty screen effects on this TV... Try literally tilting the TV a bit and tapping it lightly in the affected area. Some have managed to "massage out" similar effects with a microfiber cloth - not very promising or professional I know, but probably the only thing you could try and see if there is any effect... Do you still have extended warranty on it? If so, I'd try a warranty claim... Good luck...
The TV's been stationary on its stand on my desk since 2014 when I bought it. It only recently started doing this. I'll give your suggestions a try, though I've already done the microfiber cloth bit. I'll have to check on my SquareTrade plan to see if it's still in effect, though I doubt it since it's been three years :/

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post #5307 of 5371 Old 11-06-2017, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter- View Post
My tv just auto-updated to firmware 2200. UGH.

Anyone have a clue what changed ?

BUT:
My Bluetooth headphones stopped working. I get the menu beeps, but no tv program audio. (Tried re connecting, etc). It's been working for 2 years.

Ok....figured it out: Turn tv volume all the way down. Then Connect headphones. Then set tv Audio BACK to tv speakers, Sound now goes thru headphones.

Dang Samsung. Grrrrr
@Peter- do you know if there are any changes to the netflix Hulu or amazon prime apps?
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post #5308 of 5371 Old 12-09-2017, 10:50 AM
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I posted this in one of the smaller threads, but thought I should post it here too.

I was able to connect my UN60ES7150 to my old Asus RT-N56U router with no issues. I have since upgraded to the Asus RT-AC88U router and while the TV sees it, it will not connect. When I contacted Samsung support, they said my firmware was old (T-MST10PAUSC-2004.0, BT-G). While the link to the "current" firmware is not directly on their site - it only links to a PDF - using some logic I figured out the correct path for the ZIP file for the 12/2016 update. The info text file indicates T-MST14AKUC 2170.2, and the folder name is T-MST14AKUC (which is what is specified in the instructions). The firmware file itself is in an \image\ subfolder and is called upgrade.msd.

No matter where I put that .msd file, the TV does not see a firmware update on the USB drive. Samsung has been of ZERO help on this.

Can anyone here assist?

Thanks!


====================

Go figure, I call Samsung back (for a 4th time!) and the guy says "No, your firmware is the most current" <bangs head on desk> WTF?!

My next TV will be an LG - but I'd still like to get this wi-fi connected Nothing seems to work, not manually setting an IP, not WPS, nothing

Last edited by DeathStalker77; 12-09-2017 at 03:24 PM.
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post #5309 of 5371 Old 12-09-2017, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Teeps View Post
Never used ARC on mine, but time for normal troubleshooting:

try a different cable
connect the receiver to another ARC enabled device
Or
TV to another ARC enabled receiver

Replace TV mainboard... or time for new TV.
I ended up switching to an optical cable.

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post #5310 of 5371 Old 12-12-2017, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by DeathStalker77 View Post
I posted this in one of the smaller threads, but thought I should post it here too.

I was able to connect my UN60ES7150 to my old Asus RT-N56U router with no issues. I have since upgraded to the Asus RT-AC88U router and while the TV sees it, it will not connect. When I contacted Samsung support, they said my firmware was old (T-MST10PAUSC-2004.0, BT-G). While the link to the "current" firmware is not directly on their site - it only links to a PDF - using some logic I figured out the correct path for the ZIP file for the 12/2016 update. The info text file indicates T-MST14AKUC 2170.2, and the folder name is T-MST14AKUC (which is what is specified in the instructions). The firmware file itself is in an \image\ subfolder and is called upgrade.msd.

No matter where I put that .msd file, the TV does not see a firmware update on the USB drive. Samsung has been of ZERO help on this.

Can anyone here assist?

Thanks!


====================

Go figure, I call Samsung back (for a 4th time!) and the guy says "No, your firmware is the most current" <bangs head on desk> WTF?!

My next TV will be an LG - but I'd still like to get this wi-fi connected Nothing seems to work, not manually setting an IP, not WPS, nothing
I suggest getting a long (50 ft? 25 ft?) CAT 6 cable and running a temp connection to your router. WiFi can be problematical until you finally find out what the fix is, so the cable can make sure you have the latest firmware (just 'cuz the last guy said you are good doesn't mean he's right). It can also help you see what the TV sees for the IP settings, so you can get the WiFi set up easier.

Also, some newer routers have dialed down their default power settings, in part, for security reasons. It's possible that the new one is set to a lower value (50%) and forces the user to bump it up only if you need the additional power.

Router antennas are also unique, so your new antenna may be sending more signal in a different direction than your old one, especially with new wireless bands. It may take a while to find the correct orientation for the TV to connect properly.

You may have to eventually try each channel in a router band and lock one in that the TV can use, due to outside interference. That's very time consuming and you might not get a TV firmware update until you complete it.

I also usually temporarily turn off all security on the new router (no password) so the connection is easier to make, just to make sure I have no interference or other problems with the router. Once you have a good connection with the TV, you can add the security back in. The security requires that both the TV and router properly encrypt and de-encrypt not just your data, but also all connection headers as well. Removing the security temporarily means fewer chances for errors in the connection headers and a better chance to see what's really happening. Good luck!
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