Official Samsung UNxxH7150 / UNxxH7100AF Owners Thread - Page 77 - AVS Forum

highdefav1 · 12-02-2014, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z-Mad

Correct brightness is where the deepest black is achieved without crushing black detail - so there is really only one correct setting
Correct contrast is where the brightest white is achieved without crushing white detail - again only one really correct setting
etc.

Subjective personal preference is of course fine, but correctly calibrated picture does not really leave that much room for such preferences, apart from some fine details of gamma curve and light output for the specific viewing environment - to put it in somewhat simplified terms...

Again, if someone prefers a different "look", by all means, but it is only less accurate and farther from calibration...

So there is only one true calibration for this panel? And no matter what environment this panel resides in, it should be calibrated the same way? Then why didn't Samsung just give us a pre-calibrated panel? Why do they have so many different picture options, almost endless?

When I get this set, I'll try your settings and I'll try other settings, whether they be someone else here or someone else on the net. Or maybe I'll try my own.

My point was is that everybody's taste is different. The poster was asking about which calibrations he should use. He tried one and it didn't seem to be that great...what does that tell you?

Dogway · 12-02-2014, 07:40 PM

Hello I bought a H7000 (European H7150) panel which happens to be Samsung's, the problem is it has a pixel array I only have seen once in the forums and it belonged to Chimei, so this has puzzled me. Do you know more about this pixel type, is it any good?

Z-Mad · 12-02-2014, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MEGATURON

Zmad is this setting good for bluray and cable TV? I tried using this setup and it looks good on cable, haven't tried it yet on bluray. Sorry if you already answered this question but how did you fix the blackcrush I tried watching dark knight rises and I noticed a lot of black crush. Also for some reason my HDMI black level is grayed out so how can I change that? Thank you in advance

Basically, correct setting is correct for any source in general. The point of calibration is to accurately display the source material, thus setting the color temp etc. to match that of the source. Cable and Blu Ray are both good with correctly calibrated TV. So when your display is set to correctly display the colors, the dark detail, the light detail, etc., what would one want to change anymore anyway? If you are watching a football game on cable or a movie on BluRay, you'd still want the same attributes: a red football jersey should be as accurate as a red T-shirt in a movie; The detail and the pleats on a white basketball jersey should be revealed and displayed the same as those on a white shirt in a movie or TV show. The "mood" of each material is set by the camera and the director, not by the TV... That's the basic idea...

Regarding black-crush, this TV runs a flat gamma curve, which is not ideal for dark detail - One would want a bit lower gamma (i.e. lighter) in the lower range and slowly raise it to a higher gamma in the higher grayscale range (say 40 to 50% and up). My CAL-Day settings target such gamma curve to minimize any crushing of dark detail. Ultimately with the simple settings from above, if you need to, try to raise the brightness setting by a notch or two (but not more), or ultimately try a higher gamma setting (e.g. +1 instead of 0). Hope that helps

Z-Mad · 12-02-2014, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by highdefav1

So there is only one true calibration for this panel? And no matter what environment this panel resides in, it should be calibrated the same way? Then why didn't Samsung just give us a pre-calibrated panel? Why do they have so many different picture options, almost endless?

When I get this set, I'll try your settings and I'll try other settings, whether they be someone else here or someone else on the net. Or maybe I'll try my own.

My point was is that everybody's taste is different. The poster was asking about which calibrations he should use. He tried one and it didn't seem to be that great...what does that tell you?

Indeed there is pretty much one correct calibration for each panel. As mentioned, some variation is utilized for the specific viewing environment in terms of light output or gamma detail, but for the most part it is the one correct setting, which is rather logical. Correct blue color is only one and not many, deepest black level is only the one the set is able to reproduce and not many, etc. The targets to hit are always the same.

Yes, the TV's offer all sorts of presets, which is nothing but marketing (frankly most presets are complete garbage), and yes, to offer room for these preferences for those who are not looking for accurately calibrated panel. Samsung does offer fairly well calibrated panel (movie mode is excellent), the rest are more gimmick presets from a calibration standpoint. Manufacturers can hardly achieve perfect accuracy on every panel that leaves the factory as each panel is different. Accordingly, the settings don't always translate accurately on each set, which is why generally each panel needs to be calibrated individually for the true "perfection". As one can imagine, no manufacturer can afford to sit a pro calibrator in front of every single set for a couple of hours to bring it to perfection before it leaves the factory...

Absolutely, there are different tastes, but not different accuracies when it comes to correctly calibrated picture. Some tastes are based on accurately calibrated picture, some on other preference which is not the accurately calibrated picture. So when the poster asks which calibration, I can only refer to the one accurate, or otherwise to whatever the poster likes if he doesn't care for the accurate picture (but this was not the impression given, otherwise he probably wouldn't be asking). What that also tells me is that the settings he tried may have not translated well on his panel, which is nothing unusual.

MEGATURON · 12-02-2014, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z-Mad

Basically, correct setting is correct for any source in general. The point of calibration is to accurately display the source material, thus setting the color temp etc. to match that of the source. Cable and Blu Ray are both good with correctly calibrated TV. So when your display is set to correctly display the colors, the dark detail, the light detail, etc., what would one want to change anymore anyway? If you are watching a football game on cable or a movie on BluRay, you'd still want the same attributes: a red football jersey should be as accurate as a red T-shirt in a movie; The detail and the pleats on a white basketball jersey should be revealed and displayed the same as those on a white shirt in a movie or TV show. The "mood" of each material is set by the camera and the director, not by the TV... That's the basic idea...

Regarding black-crush, this TV runs a flat gamma curve, which is not ideal for dark detail - One would want a bit lower gamma (i.e. lighter) in the lower range and slowly raise it to a higher gamma in the higher grayscale range (say 40 to 50% and up). My CAL-Day settings target such gamma curve to minimize any crushing of dark detail. Ultimately with the simple settings from above, if you need to, try to raise the brightness setting by a notch or two (but not more), or ultimately try a higher gamma setting (e.g. +1 instead of 0). Hope that helps

Ok ill try it thanks for ur reply. Sry if im being redundant but how can i access this cal day and cal night i cant find it on the menu.

Z-Mad · 12-02-2014, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tang7969

HDMI black level is grayed out and I cant change it. Any idea why?

That depends on your source. This option is automatically preset to "normal" on sources like BluRay, while your cable box will probably allow changing this setting. If you can't change it on your source, that's ok, nothing to worry about...

Z-Mad · 12-02-2014, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MEGATURON

Ok ill try it thanks for ur reply. Sry if im being redundant but how can i access this cal day and cal night i cant find it on the menu.

No worries, and good luck

Hopefully the settings work out for you or at least give you a good starting point for your particular panel...

Regarding enabling CAL modes, you need to do it in the service mode - see post 1975 here

Nick Currier · 12-02-2014, 08:59 PM

Hello All,

I picked up the 65" version of the h7150 not too long ago. The attached pictures show the uniformity I was seeing when first checking it out. From what I could tell it looked pretty good. However, I've noticed some light banding when playing games on it and rotating the camera around on light backgrounds. I can really only notice it in one or two areas, and it is pretty faint, though it can be noticeable, especially if I look for it instead of playing the game (big mistake, right?). I'm wondering if I should try to see if I can get a panel with better uniformity or if I should just listen to my wife and stop obsessing about the tv and count my lucky stars for getting one as good as I did.

Thoughts? Thank you.

Z-Mad · 12-02-2014, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick Currier

Hello All,

I picked up the 65" version of the h7150 not too long ago. The attached pictures show the uniformity I was seeing when first checking it out. From what I could tell it looked pretty good. However, I've noticed some light banding when playing games on it and rotating the camera around on light backgrounds. I can really only notice it in one or two areas, and it is pretty faint, though it can be noticeable, especially if I look for it instead of playing the game (big mistake, right?). I'm wondering if I should try to see if I can get a panel with better uniformity or if I should just listen to my wife and stop obsessing about the tv and count my lucky stars for getting one as good as I did.

Thoughts? Thank you.

As always, wife is of course right, lol

That's actually excellent screen uniformity for an edge lit LED. Your chances are higher for getting a worse one than getting a better one at this point... Unfortunately, LED's or transmissive tech TV's in general just aren't perfect when it comes to uniformity... We all have to live with it until hopefully a good emissive tech TV (like plasma used to be) is available - OLED when it comes down in price a bit...

Paulo88 · 12-02-2014, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobra30

Downloading now, it must be a big update, est time 20 minutes. Did it affect the picture quality as far as you can notice

No picture difference that I can tell. But mine didn't take 20 minutes to download it was done in a few seconds :/

mikeynavy1 · 12-02-2014, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paulo88

No picture difference that I can tell. But mine didn't take 20 minutes to download it was done in a few seconds :/

Mine only took a few seconds as well (fast connection though). I may be noticing a picture difference though. On 2122 the picture may have been slightly darker but it looked crisper as well. I may be imagining things but my picture seems to be a little softer now. Long day today so maybe that's it...haha. We'll see

CC330i · 12-02-2014, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by index

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC330i

As many others have reported I was having issues with Anynet+ after picking up my un65h7100 from Costco this weekend.

As is common I have all my various sources (DVR/cable box, PS4, PS3) directly connected to my AVR (Yamaha RX-A 3000). I was coming from a 50" Panasonic Plasma which I had set up with CEC.

When I first connected the TV I connected as I did with my Plasma using a single HDMI cable to HDMI 2/ARC on the TV and had the issue where the TV would switch the input on my Yamaha AVR to Audio 1 from AV 2 a few moments after I powered up the TV.

The good news was that the TV was turning on the AVR, but the input was switching which caused me to have to switch back to AV 2 manually to hear the TV over the receiver.

After reading many posts about disabling Anynet and/or using a TOSLINK cable, or buying a universal remote with a delay to change back to the right input on the AVR, it dawned on me that Samsung intended for users to connect the DVR/Cable box directly to the TV on HDMI 1 and to connect the TV to the AVR via HDMI 2/ARC.

Since I have the Yamaha HDMI control settings for TV input mapped to Audio 1, the Yamaha receiver is going to switch to Audio 1 when it sees a signal from the TV. So now I just leave the AVR set to Audio 1 all the time. and everything works perfectly.

When I turn on the TV, the Yamaha AVR powers up on Audio 1 input and plays the TV sound. When I launch SmartHub, the AVR stays on Audio 1. When I power up my PS4 the TV automatically switches to HDMI 2 and the audio on the AVR switches to the AV3 input where I have my PS4 connected. When I power down the PS4, the TV automatically switches back to HDMI 1 and the AVR switches back to Audio 1. Perfect.

So the key is to connect one HDMI cable from the TV HDMI 1 jack to the DVR/Cable box output, and a second HDMI cable from HDMI 2/ARC on the TV to my AVR HDMI "TV" output.

I hope this is helpful to everyone having issues with Anynet +. This solution just required me to change my thinking about only having one HDMI cable connected to the TV. You need 2 HDMI cables to the TV as noted above. I don't even need my AVR remote anymore, which is an improvement over my Panasonic setup.

Thanks for the tip, I'm going to try this.
I have a RV-V675, so I'll have it connected the following way:
Cable Box -> HDMI -> Samsung HDMI 1
AVR -> HDMI -> Samsung HDMI 2 (ARC)

Any idea if Samsung's ARC will deprecate the audio in any way? E.g. only provide 2-ch stereo vs. 5.1?

I didn't notice any degradation in sound quality/format watching TV/SmartHub apps, but to be honest I didn't check to see what format the TV was sending to the receiver, and now I am traveling until Sunday.

My Yamaha will display the source audio format so I will check that when I get home. Your Yamaha should too - both on the display and in the menus.

I did find this:

The Audio Return Channel supports all the same audio formats that can be sent through a traditional S/PDIF audio connection, including Dolby Digital, DTS, and PCM audio.

As an aside, I encouraged my parents to buy the Yamaha RX-V577 for their vacation house and I have been impressed with that unit for the price. They got it on sale for $299 at Frys a month or so ago. I bought them the Pioneer SP-FS52-LR Andrew Jones Designed Floor standing Loudspeakers and center channel speaker and was completely blown away with the sound of those speakers for the price. Didn't blow me away with their appearance - the money was clearly not spent on the veneer, but they rival (or do I dare say - sound better than) my Martin Logan Motion bookshelf speakers and center channel speaker at many times the price. Of course it's hard to compare a floor standing speaker to a bookshelf. I'd just encourage anyone on a budget to consider that setup. Very pleasing results.

shin_hibiki · 12-03-2014, 12:13 AM

Hi, all. I picked up a 60H7100 over the weekend. Believe it or not, this is my first HD set, though I've hooked up plenty of them for relatives. I started plugging stuff into it, and having a lot of old tech, I wanted to make use of the shared composite/component input. (My brother's Kmart special has more inputs!) If I use it for component, I don't seem to have any trouble. But if I use it for composite (PS2, etc.), I get a big rolling flicker that travels from bottom to top before starting again. It happened the first day I hooked it up. The second day, I finally set up the wifi and updated the software, after which the issue seemed to disappear. Third day, it was back again. I talked to Samsung tech support, which gave me various excuses and non-answers, most of which boiled down to "if the test image is fine, it's not a problem with the TV." I know there are composite-to-HDMI adapters, and I have one on the way, but if I'm spending four figures on a device, I don't think it's too much to ask for it to work right or to get some decent support! Any chance someone here has experienced something similar, or did I just get a bum unit that I should exchange right away? If it's questionable right out of the box, I'm not sure I want to take a chance with it over the longer term.

Pancake14 · 12-03-2014, 01:37 AM

For those with the Sharp panels. I got one for my dad also and his says GH02 and mine says HH01. The build date of mine is September and my dad's says November. I read somewhere (not sure where but online someplace) that a few people thought since H comes after G it's a newer panel. Maybe, but I'm thinking it's just a build location identifier perhaps.

Anyway, just adding that info since not many people are providing many details about the Sharp panel. I'm actually leaning towards the 60" although I feel like I can make the 55" look a tad crisper. I'm using the same calibration settings (found here) for both.

It's hard to go back 5" lol

Egghead1976 · 12-03-2014, 05:09 AM

Anybody know if the updates are the same in Canada as for people in the US? I just checked Samsung.ca and the latest firmware update was in October??

Secondly on a totally different note can you play blu Ray files off a USB drive directly on this tv?

Thanks.

Mk3_wagen · 12-03-2014, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EPlay

I'm guessing it has to do with the voice control. Maybe try pressing the microphone symbol on the smart remote?

*edit* - Yes, looked it up in the manual online. Just press the "voice" microphone button on the smart remote to terminate voice control. Mic on screen should disappear.

I want to disable it completely, not just turn it off temporarily.

SurfingMatt27 · 12-03-2014, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeynavy1

Mine only took a few seconds as well (fast connection though). I may be noticing a picture difference though. On 2122 the picture may have been slightly darker but it looked crisper as well. I may be imagining things but my picture seems to be a little softer now. Long day today so maybe that's it...haha. We'll see

I updated to 2123 yesterday and I think it washed out the color somewhat, and yeah I think the picture degraded slightly with sharpness. What the hell samsung can't you make a firmware where it doesn't screw with the picture?

Airscape · 12-03-2014, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mk3_wagen

Quote:

Originally Posted by EPlay

I'm guessing it has to do with the voice control. Maybe try pressing the microphone symbol on the smart remote?

*edit* - Yes, looked it up in the manual online. Just press the "voice" microphone button on the smart remote to terminate voice control. Mic on screen should disappear.

I want to disable it completely, not just turn it off temporarily.

Not at the tv but there is definately an option to turn voice control off under one of the main menu options, this will prevent the icon from showing up, exact spot was referenced a stack of pages ago.

ozark · 12-03-2014, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mk3_wagen

I want to disable it completely, not just turn it off temporarily.

Your not looking hard enough.

dmccusk · 12-03-2014, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SurfingMatt27

I updated to 2123 yesterday and I think it washed out the color somewhat, and yeah I think the picture degraded slightly with sharpness. What the hell samsung can't you make a firmware where it doesn't screw with the picture?

I agree. My picture quality just changed. I'm not real happy with this TV right now. Still have time to return it. Any other 55s out there that I can check out? What about the new P series Vizio's or the Sony KDL-55W800B?

de8212 · 12-03-2014, 02:30 PM

Glad I never updated to the 2122 or the 2123. It's a shame this is happening.

Has anyone tried to roll back their firmware?

Mk3_wagen · 12-03-2014, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ozark

Your not looking hard enough.

Unless you have an answer to my question, keep it moving...

logitack · 12-03-2014, 03:45 PM

To Z-Mad

I received my h7150 60 inch TV this morning, it has the GH02 panel.

I have used your calibration numbers, so thanks for that.

as an aside, i found the presets ok, but that is coming from an untrained eye so anything looks good to me

My question is this,

Do you turn off the ECO Solution menu
energy saving - OFF
eco sensor - OFF
no signal/power off - OFF
auto power off - OFF

If not, what settings for the 4 settings in the eco solutions menu?

also, in your calibration settings,

what setting are you using for "picture size" ?

thanks

milkk · 12-03-2014, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Egghead1976

Anybody know if the updates are the same in Canada as for people in the US? I just checked Samsung.ca and the latest firmware update was in October??

Secondly on a totally different note can you play blu Ray files off a USB drive directly on this tv?

Thanks.

You'll only get the latest updates via the TV itself it takes a while for it to show up on the website. In regards to your second question I would say know unless you encode them to another format like a remux mkv or something.

de8212 · 12-03-2014, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by de8212

Glad I never updated to the 2122 or the 2123. It's a shame this is happening.

Has anyone tried to roll back their firmware?

I spoke too soon. Guess I didn't notice I left Auto update on. Checked today and I'm at 2122.

Without going back through the thread, what was wrong with 2122?

gair1944 · 12-03-2014, 04:38 PM

I still cannot get audio out from Smart TV via Digital Optical Toslink, nor via HDMI Arc. I am at firmware 2123.

Only Smart TV audio (netflix) goes to internal TV Speakers. I changed the TV Sound setting to Audio Out (for external), connected Toslink cable from Audio output of Samsung 7150 to input on my new Marantz 5009 receiver, set the Marantz source appropriately, but no sound gets to my receiver from the TV. WTF am I doing wrong? Or is this an issue with the Sammy?

Rumble Devo · 12-03-2014, 04:49 PM

Hello all, I am a new owner of the 65 7150

My question is has any one done a 2pt white balance on the 3D menu?

Using MY i1Display Pro HCFR I ran a quick grey scale sweep through the 3D glasses and saw that the balance was way off.
Any pointers on WB and color calibrating in 3D.

Thanks.

ozark · 12-03-2014, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mk3_wagen

Unless you have an answer to my question, keep it moving...

LOL, Have you read the manual? lots of good info there. Did you look at all the different settings? Did you look lets say in the smart feature setting- (voice control) How's that for moving.

ozark · 12-03-2014, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by de8212

Glad I never updated to the 2122 or the 2123. It's a shame this is happening.

Has anyone tried to roll back their firmware?

You can't.

Mk3_wagen · 12-03-2014, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ozark

LOL, Have you read the manual? lots of good info there. Did you look at all the different settings? Did you look lets say in the smart feature setting- (voice control) How's that for moving.

I did and also spent an hour on the phone with tech support. I read page 9 in the manual and my menu does not match up with the screen shot. Instead of VOICE CONTROL, it says VOICE INTERACTION. When I go in there the only options are LANGUAGE, TV VOICE, and VOICE GENDER. No option to turn it on/off. The tech guy remotely controlled my TV and went through the entire menu and even reset my TV. After all that he told me that there is no way to completely turn it off. So, you got anything else?

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