Official Samsung UNxxH7150 / UNxxH7100AF Owners Thread - Page 79 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2341 of 5364 Old 12-03-2014, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mk3_wagen View Post
Before updating to 2123, I didn't notice the "soap opera" effect when the auto motion was set to clear. Now it is definitely noticeable. I thought the update might have messed with my settings, but I checked and it was still set to clear. I now have to set it off. Did this happen to anyone else?
Yes, I think I see just a tiny bit more SOE as well with AMP on clear. It's not horrible, but slightly more noticeable than before. I think I'll play with the custom settings as well and see if there is a setting that works better (less SOE)...

I notice that the update apparently fixed the sample and hold time (charging and discharging of LED crystals) so that there is no more "trailing" or ghost images from what I can tell so far...

UPDATE: I reverted AMP setting back to my old custom settings, which seem to still work well and look good without SOE...
Blur: 10
Judder: 2

Last edited by Z-Mad; 12-03-2014 at 10:30 PM.
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post #2342 of 5364 Old 12-03-2014, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by de8212 View Post
I spoke too soon. Guess I didn't notice I left Auto update on. Checked today and I'm at 2122.

Without going back through the thread, what was wrong with 2122?
With 2122 a lot of people noticed that the picture became a little "darker." I noticed it too but overlooked it because the picture was crisp and clear...sharp without the artifacts introduced when using the menu.

While some people were disappointed with 2122 compared to 2123 I would be happy to have 2122 back. That being said, hopefully Samsung will continue to release firmware updates as fast as they have been. Of note is that it looks like these firmware updates are applicable to multiple models. I recently bought a 40" 6350 for the bedroom and it too updated to 2123 at the same time as the 7150.
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post #2343 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by LReyes66 View Post
I only decided to NOT get the H7150 because the best buy employee told me that the Sony 4k x850b priced would go up after the weekend n that the h7150 would prob stay the same. Thats why I got the x850b to try out 4k. But everything ended up being the opposite. My x850b is still $1499 as of today n the h7150 changed right after cyber Monday.

Sent from my Nexus 6
Kind of shady they know what prices are coming...

How's the Sony? Is there much point to buying 4k now though? Not doubting you, I'm just asking.

Last edited by Pancake14; 12-04-2014 at 01:02 AM.
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post #2344 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post
Indeed, the wife being right would probably be better left between us

HOWEVER, here is the thing: after seeing your additional pictures, I have to correct myself: your wife is actually not exactly right in this case, and unfortunately so... I am now seeing the circular darker areas surrounding the center, which I didn't notice on yesterday's pics. This is also odd because the uniformity issues are usually not curving around the center like that; it appears as if the screen was pushed by some weight exactly in the center, creating this circularly uneven/non-uniform screen. In this case I would indeed rather exchange the TV. Good H7150 panels definitely have better uniformity than that... So if you still can, get a new set, and good luck...
Actually, the wife is still right.

Those pictures were not of the h7150 I have right now. Those were of 2 different Sony kdl70w850b tvs I had tried out before switching to the Samsung h7150. Sorry about the confusion. I actually went through a total of 3 of those Sony tvs, all having the same issue across different build dates, before I gave up and switched to the 65" h7150. I was just showing how much better the Samsung uniformity was in relation to what I had originally tried.
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post #2345 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post
Yes, turn off all the ECO stuff. It only introduces dimming and fluctuation of the picture that can be rather distracting.

Regarding picture size, that depends on your source. I would normally try and prefer "screen fit" first, but if that doesn't cover the full screen and leaves small black strips of uncovered screen area on either side, then "16:9" is the best choice... Hope that helps
Hi Z-mad, this would solve my dimming problem, but I can't find the Eco solution menu. Where can I find that so I can turn off all of the Eco setting?

Thanks!
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post #2346 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 07:41 AM
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I am still on 2120. I disabled auto-update, but not before 2122 was downloaded (but not installed). Now every time I turn on the TV, I get a banner across the top that tells me an update is ready. I tried finding a setting to disable/dismiss this notification -- including in the "notifications" menu -- but couldn't find one. Has anyone else figured this out?
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post #2347 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael Barnett View Post
Hi Z-mad, this would solve my dimming problem, but I can't find the Eco solution menu. Where can I find that so I can turn off all of the Eco setting?

Thanks!
In menu go down to system, eco solution, turn energy saving and eco sensor off.
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post #2348 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post
Yes, I think I see just a tiny bit more SOE as well with AMP on clear. It's not horrible, but slightly more noticeable than before. I think I'll play with the custom settings as well and see if there is a setting that works better (less SOE)...

I notice that the update apparently fixed the sample and hold time (charging and discharging of LED crystals) so that there is no more "trailing" or ghost images from what I can tell so far...

UPDATE: I reverted AMP setting back to my old custom settings, which seem to still work well and look good without SOE...
Blur: 10
Judder: 2
After I posted that I also changed the AMP to custom settings. Looks pretty good.
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post #2349 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 10:01 AM
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WTF Samsung?!

I have not updated my firmware. Auto-update is off. Firmware 2120....
But!!!

Last night, watching American Horror Story in 480i, I kept thinking how unusually dark it was. Then the screen went completely black, backlight off and all, before commercial. I nearly $#!+ my pants. CE Dimming is back???! Previously, a Brightness of 46 would turn off this 'feature', but somehow my TV has changed it's mind??

After a quick panic-stricken test, I think 48 is the new 46. Brightness of 48 seems to disable the CE dimming again.
...for now.


Developing....
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post #2350 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 10:49 AM
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Is anyone able to confirm what, if any, audio outputs on the TV will actually pass-through DD5.1? I'm deciding between soundbars and would prefer to connect everything to the TV and then have the TV with a single output, via Optical or HDMI, send the 5.1 signal to the bar. I had read previously that the TV used to pass-through optical till 1114, however, I can't find a clear answer since if optical will work or not. Samsung chat today told me the only pass-through was hdmi arc.

I would like to eliminate the Optical input only bars to help with my decision if the TV cannot pass-through the 5.1 signal from HDMI to optical. Or is there another option?

Thanks,
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post #2351 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zrd5005 View Post
Is anyone able to confirm what, if any, audio outputs on the TV will actually pass-through DD5.1? I'm deciding between soundbars and would prefer to connect everything to the TV and then have the TV with a single output, via Optical or HDMI, send the 5.1 signal to the bar. I had read previously that the TV used to pass-through optical till 1114, however, I can't find a clear answer since if optical will work or not. Samsung chat today told me the only pass-through was hdmi arc.

I would like to eliminate the Optical input only bars to help with my decision if the TV cannot pass-through the 5.1 signal from HDMI to optical. Or is there another option?

Thanks,

It depends on how many components you have but most sound bars have at least 2 optical ports and it always sounds better with your components hooked up directly to the sound bar. Now if you're using the tv for apps then you'd want it hooked up to the tv. As far as i know I've never
heard of many tvs that pass through dd 5.1 via Optical but i could be wrong. Most soundbars can decode dts and you'll only get that with your blu ray hooked directly to the sound bar.

Last edited by AncientAlien; 12-04-2014 at 11:30 AM.
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post #2352 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zrd5005 View Post
Is anyone able to confirm what, if any, audio outputs on the TV will actually pass-through DD5.1? I'm deciding between soundbars and would prefer to connect everything to the TV and then have the TV with a single output, via Optical or HDMI, send the 5.1 signal to the bar. I had read previously that the TV used to pass-through optical till 1114, however, I can't find a clear answer since if optical will work or not. Samsung chat today told me the only pass-through was hdmi arc.

I would like to eliminate the Optical input only bars to help with my decision if the TV cannot pass-through the 5.1 signal from HDMI to optical. Or is there another option?

Thanks,
I am getting 5.1 pass-through via optical. I haven't checked if it's DD or DTS...

As I remember, the set-up through the menu is a little odd, but it works great.
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post #2353 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 01:01 PM
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If you're equating me using a digital resource to find an answer to a question, which I promptly received, to you not understanding something a twelve year old has mastered; you would certainly qualify as uneducated.

Bravo with skipping that pesky grammar in your quest to master reading manuals.
If you don't have a solution to MK3 voice control problem then you need to but out of the conversation, Enough said!
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post #2354 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Pancake14 View Post
Kind of shady they know what prices are coming...

How's the Sony? Is there much point to buying 4k now though? Not doubting you, I'm just asking.
Pq is amazing with everything upscaled lol. Not much 4k content but hey I know I'm future proof.

My biggest gripe is that I had to move down from my intended size (65") to stay in my budget of $1600 n getting the 55" x850b. The TV I'm upgrading from was a 50" panny plasma so I only moved up 5". As I'm watching my TV... I sometimes stop and thing.."wonder what it would be like if I was watching this on a screen 10" bigger"

Sent from my Nexus 6
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post #2355 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 02:53 PM
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OK, Here's the deal: I initially replaced my old 42" plasma with a 60" H7100. To get a watchable picture, however, you have to really pump up the brightness (at least to get anywhere near plasma quality). Unfortunately, doing this produces an effect similar to staring at the sun and, with the huge screen, my eyes quickly started to burn out. Cable HD broadcast was also very blurry and judded and SD was unwatchable. I down sized to the 55" H7150 and both of these problems significantly improved (especially the blurring and judding is less noticeable). SD is now barely watchable. The retina burning is still a problem with broadcast TV due to the bright commercials etc. 1080p HD content and movies (streaming Netflix Vudu) are OK, however. You have to really lower the gamma, contrast and backlighting to make cable watchable for any period of time. With the 55" I sit about 10" away and full screen content is too big. Letterbox movies, however, are perfect. That is a trade off you might want to consider. The next size down is 46" which is too small in my book. Samsung, please make 51" televisions! THAT BEING SAID, here are my initial pre-break in, out of the box, calibrations. My goal to get as close to plasma/CRT as possible. If as setting is not shown it is default. Heads up, you must use different settings for different sources to get good results:


----


HD 1080i, 780 CABLE SETTINGS
Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 16
Brightness: 46


Apply Picture Mode: Current Source
Picture Size: Screen Fit
Dynamic Contrast: Off (you may want to go to Low on some shows but it cause skin over saturation on most broadcasts)
Black Tone: Off


Gamma +1
Motion Lighting: Off
Color tone: Standard
Digital Clean View: Off
Mpeg Noise Filter: Off
Film Mode: Off
Auto Motion Plus: Off
Cinema Black Low
Sound Mode: Standard (the Movie and Surround setting produce a tinny sound on cable)
----








HD 1080p and Steaming CONTENT
Backlight: 19
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 47
Apply Picture Mode: Current Source
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Black Tone: Dark
Gamma: +2
Motion Lighting: Off




Color Tone: Standard
Digital Clean View: Off
Mpeg Noise Filter: Off
Film Mode: Off
Auto Motion Plus: Off
Cinema Black: Off
Sound Mode: Movie


Make sure you turn off the Eco Solutions stuff under the system settings.
I like the sound leveler turned on so I don't get blown out when I change sources.


Some quirks: The TV leans back about an inch while on the stand. Called support, which was very helpful, and they are sending a new stand. Also, the TV is slightly convex (bent out toward the viewer). According to the support guys, this is normal. Tried Xbox 360 with component connections and the picture quality is so bad its unusable. I have an Xbox One on order though and that is supposed to work better because of the HDMI connection, apparently.


Let me know how you like the settings and if anyone has any Xbox One calibrations. Thanks
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post #2356 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 03:10 PM
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Any chance the keyboard from a Logitech revue might work on this TV?
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post #2357 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by de8212 View Post
Any chance the keyboard from a Logitech revue might work on this TV?
I have the Logitech k400 & it works great. Having said that, I'm gonna take a guess and say that the revue should work. Any chance of trying it out first before committing? That way you'll know for sure.

john.

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post #2358 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 04:10 PM
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Does anyone know if you could use the Smart View 2.0 App on an IPhone?
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post #2359 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by LReyes66 View Post
Pq is amazing with everything upscaled lol. Not much 4k content but hey I know I'm future proof.

My biggest gripe is that I had to move down from my intended size (65") to stay in my budget of $1600 n getting the 55" x850b. The TV I'm upgrading from was a 50" panny plasma so I only moved up 5". As I'm watching my TV... I sometimes stop and thing.."wonder what it would be like if I was watching this on a screen 10" bigger"

Sent from my Nexus 6
I'm glad you like it!

I looked at the 4k TVs quite a bit (drooled actually). Read a bunch online about standards not finished, not really future proof, not needed for <=65", etc. That's why I chose to stick with HD. Hopefully I didn't screw up because I don't want to have to buy a new TV in just 5 years.

I sit about 11' away from my TV. For me the 55" is what I originally wanted and it does look nice. However, I also got a 60" and I've been going back and forth and tend to like the 60" a bit more. I'm actually thinking 65" would be perfect because it's only ~12% larger and it comes with the Samsung screen. I had a Sharp that was a major headache a few years ago so I have some fears of the 60" H7150 even though it looks great.

I don't think you made the wrong choice at all if you're happy. For me, having a 65" screen is going to be damn impressive because I like to watch mostly movies (and Top Gear). I'm not really into video games much either. I just wonder if I'm getting too hung up on size right now.

Also, there's a HUGE difference between the 55" and 60" in 3D. The immersion is much better on the larger screen so if you do like 3D it might be worth considering.

Either way, have fun. There will be something better released in about 20-30 minutes anyway. lol

Last edited by Pancake14; 12-04-2014 at 04:28 PM.
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post #2360 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tech7474 View Post
The retina burning is still a problem with broadcast TV due to the bright commercials etc. 1080p HD content and movies (streaming Netflix Vudu) are OK, however. You have to really lower the gamma, contrast and backlighting to make cable watchable for any period of time.


HD 1080i, 780 CABLE SETTINGS
Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 16
Brightness: 46

HD 1080p and Steaming CONTENT
Backlight: 19
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 47
Wow, that's pretty high backlight. Mine is at 8. But we all have different preferences as well as cable/content providers.
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post #2361 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 05:49 PM
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WiFI and bluetooth, yeah or nay?

any opinions on if the 7150 should be hard wired to the internet? what about blue tooth 2.1 sound bars?
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post #2362 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick Currier View Post
Actually, the wife is still right.

Those pictures were not of the h7150 I have right now. Those were of 2 different Sony kdl70w850b tvs I had tried out before switching to the Samsung h7150. Sorry about the confusion. I actually went through a total of 3 of those Sony tvs, all having the same issue across different build dates, before I gave up and switched to the 65" h7150. I was just showing how much better the Samsung uniformity was in relation to what I had originally tried.
Ahhhh, I see... That makes sense - I was rather surprised to see that much of uniformity issue on a H7150. Plus, I should have known better not to doubt what the wife said, lol
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post #2363 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Spongebob38 View Post
I have the Logitech k400 & it works great. Having said that, I'm gonna take a guess and say that the revue should work. Any chance of trying it out first before committing? That way you'll know for sure.

john.
Well, I have the tv and the revue (just gotta dig it out of the closet). Just wasn't sure if it was possible or even how to test.
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post #2364 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tech7474 View Post
OK, Here's the deal: I initially replaced my old 42" plasma with a 60" H7100. To get a watchable picture, however, you have to really pump up the brightness (at least to get anywhere near plasma quality). Unfortunately, doing this produces an effect similar to staring at the sun and, with the huge screen, my eyes quickly started to burn out. Cable HD broadcast was also very blurry and judded and SD was unwatchable. I down sized to the 55" H7150 and both of these problems significantly improved (especially the blurring and judding is less noticeable). SD is now barely watchable. The retina burning is still a problem with broadcast TV due to the bright commercials etc. 1080p HD content and movies (streaming Netflix Vudu) are OK, however. You have to really lower the gamma, contrast and backlighting to make cable watchable for any period of time. With the 55" I sit about 10" away and full screen content is too big. Letterbox movies, however, are perfect. That is a trade off you might want to consider. The next size down is 46" which is too small in my book. Samsung, please make 51" televisions! THAT BEING SAID, here are my initial pre-break in, out of the box, calibrations. My goal to get as close to plasma/CRT as possible. If as setting is not shown it is default. Heads up, you must use different settings for different sources to get good results:


----


HD 1080i, 780 CABLE SETTINGS
Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 16
Brightness: 46


Apply Picture Mode: Current Source
Picture Size: Screen Fit
Dynamic Contrast: Off (you may want to go to Low on some shows but it cause skin over saturation on most broadcasts)
Black Tone: Off


Gamma +1
Motion Lighting: Off
Color tone: Standard
Digital Clean View: Off
Mpeg Noise Filter: Off
Film Mode: Off
Auto Motion Plus: Off
Cinema Black Low
Sound Mode: Standard (the Movie and Surround setting produce a tinny sound on cable)
----








HD 1080p and Steaming CONTENT
Backlight: 19
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 47
Apply Picture Mode: Current Source
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Black Tone: Dark
Gamma: +2
Motion Lighting: Off




Color Tone: Standard
Digital Clean View: Off
Mpeg Noise Filter: Off
Film Mode: Off
Auto Motion Plus: Off
Cinema Black: Off
Sound Mode: Movie


Make sure you turn off the Eco Solutions stuff under the system settings.
I like the sound leveler turned on so I don't get blown out when I change sources.


Some quirks: The TV leans back about an inch while on the stand. Called support, which was very helpful, and they are sending a new stand. Also, the TV is slightly convex (bent out toward the viewer). According to the support guys, this is normal. Tried Xbox 360 with component connections and the picture quality is so bad its unusable. I have an Xbox One on order though and that is supposed to work better because of the HDMI connection, apparently.


Let me know how you like the settings and if anyone has any Xbox One calibrations. Thanks
Wow, that backlight setting is indeed a scorcher (as EPlay mentioned too) - I'm not surprised your retina starts suffering real quick...
Backlight at 8 (half of your setting) outputs 45 fL of light! That's already brighter than most plasmas will ever do and is for bright room viewing. For dimmer viewing environments or nighttime, one doesn't need more than 30fL of light output, which you can get with backlight at 5! In any case I'd never go any higher than 10 even in the brightest of situations...
Then your gamma is high on top of that (+1/+2), color temp too cold (warm 2 is actually the most accurate and plasma-like color)...

I posted the most accurate settings (if one isn't calibrating full grayscale and CMS) a page or two earlier, if you want to give that a shot and compare - they certainly will save your retina, that's for sure
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post #2365 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 06:38 PM
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I should have known better not to doubt what the wife said, lol
True words of wisdom there...
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post #2366 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 06:48 PM
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I'm on 2122 firmware right now, considering going to 2123. But it seems that I often have to re-enter my login for either Amazon or Netflix after a firmware upgrade (or for some other reason). Does anyone know why these apps might lose the login creds that are saved? Does it only happen if the app is upgraded? Once it was Amazon, and then another time it was netflix.

It is really annoying having to re-enter my login, since I use very complex passwords that take forever to enter.

In case folks think this is a bug, I'd like to get it submitted based on feedback.

Last edited by scottypa; 12-04-2014 at 06:48 PM. Reason: clarity
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post #2367 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 08:26 PM
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Wow, that backlight setting is indeed a scorcher (as EPlay mentioned too) - I'm not surprised your retina starts suffering real quick...
Backlight at 8 (half of your setting) outputs 45 fL of light! That's already brighter than most plasmas will ever do and is for bright room viewing. For dimmer viewing environments or nighttime, one doesn't need more than 30fL of light output, which you can get with backlight at 5! In any case I'd never go any higher than 10 even in the brightest of situations...
Then your gamma is high on top of that (+1/+2), color temp too cold (warm 2 is actually the most accurate and plasma-like color)...

I posted the most accurate settings (if one isn't calibrating full grayscale and CMS) a page or two earlier, if you want to give that a shot and compare - they certainly will save your retina, that's for sure

Thanks I will give it a try. The number I had seemed to be the only way to get the amount of contrast that I am used to.
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post #2368 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 09:04 PM
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Does Samsung monitor these threads or what is the best way to get mass notification to them on firmware bugs? Calling tech support has never done anything.
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post #2369 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tech7474 View Post
Thanks I will give it a try. The number I had seemed to be the only way to get the amount of contrast that I am used to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post
Wow, that backlight setting is indeed a scorcher (as EPlay mentioned too) - I'm not surprised your retina starts suffering real quick...
Backlight at 8 (half of your setting) outputs 45 fL of light! That's already brighter than most plasmas will ever do and is for bright room viewing. For dimmer viewing environments or nighttime, one doesn't need more than 30fL of light output, which you can get with backlight at 5! In any case I'd never go any higher than 10 even in the brightest of situations...
Then your gamma is high on top of that (+1/+2), color temp too cold (warm 2 is actually the most accurate and plasma-like color)...

I posted the most accurate settings (if one isn't calibrating full grayscale and CMS) a page or two earlier, if you want to give that a shot and compare - they certainly will save your retina, that's for sure
Follow up question: I read your posts and was thinking of trying this in PC mode. What does PC mode actually do besides reducing input lag?
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post #2370 of 5364 Old 12-04-2014, 09:43 PM
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I was trying set input to PC mode but there are no options to do this when I get to "edit name". It only comes up with a keyboard on the screen so I can type in my own name. What am I missing?
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