Official 2014 Vizio Mxxx-Bx Series owners thread - Page 118 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3511 of 3766 Old 04-15-2015, 02:48 PM
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Okay, moving to this thread from the defective 1.60 firmware thread. Vizio replaced my TV with an overstock. They can tell by the serial number. So it was new, but they can't call it that because once it arrives back at the warehouse they open it to inspect it before shipping it out. The TV developed screen uniformity issues so back it went. They just delivered this one Saturday. I sent them photos and they are replacing it again with a new set. Took moments to get approved. I had taken the photos this morning before going to work while it was still dark. Getting tired of this and I hope the new one has the old FW and doesn't look the attached photos.
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post #3512 of 3766 Old 04-15-2015, 05:34 PM
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Hey MoInSTL, I see similar screen uniformity when I start up my M60, does it cause it problems with set? I thougt it was normal.
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post #3513 of 3766 Old 04-15-2015, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoInSTL View Post
Okay, moving to this thread from the defective 1.60 firmware thread. Vizio replaced my TV with an overstock. They can tell by the serial number. So it was new, but they can't call it that because once it arrives back at the warehouse they open it to inspect it before shipping it out. The TV developed screen uniformity issues so back it went. They just delivered this one Saturday. I sent them photos and they are replacing it again with a new set. Took moments to get approved. I had taken the photos this morning before going to work while it was still dark. Getting tired of this and I hope the new one has the old FW and doesn't look the attached photos.
I have had roughly a half dozen replacement Vizio sets over the last 18 months and they all have that uniformity issue to some degree. It is really just the nature of the beast with lcd. It does tend to get better on more expensive panels. If you engage local dimming it should mitigated the issue for the most part.

I have since moved on from Vizio to Samsung and the overall panel uniformity is much better but I do have some flashlighting from the corners since it is edge lit, so pick your poison I guess.
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post #3514 of 3766 Old 04-16-2015, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by primetimeguy View Post
I have had roughly a half dozen replacement Vizio sets over the last 18 months and they all have that uniformity issue to some degree. It is really just the nature of the beast with lcd. It does tend to get better on more expensive panels. If you engage local dimming it should mitigated the issue for the most part.

I have since moved on from Vizio to Samsung and the overall panel uniformity is much better but I do have some flashlighting from the corners since it is edge lit, so pick your poison I guess.
Thanks for the info and for the tip. I think on this one, it's a lot. I would think Vizio would not approve an exchange if it was normal. Not perfection, just not as bad. Do you recall seeing one like this? Did you keep it or return based on uniformity? (I realize you have a Samsung now).
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post #3515 of 3766 Old 04-16-2015, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoInSTL View Post
Thanks for the info and for the tip. I think on this one, it's a lot. I would think Vizio would not approve an exchange if it was normal. Not perfection, just not as bad. Do you recall seeing one like this? Did you keep it or return based on uniformity? (I realize you have a Samsung now).
I would deem it unacceptable and exchange it. I had one that I exchanged specifically because of this issue.
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post #3516 of 3766 Old 04-17-2015, 03:25 AM
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I would deem it unacceptable and exchange it. I had one that I exchanged specifically because of this issue.
Thanks. I received a message that it's been shipped. Should arrive around the 28th. FWIW, the other one shipped from Brea, CA, this one from San Diego.
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post #3517 of 3766 Old 04-18-2015, 08:15 AM
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i am using the audio out red/white cable with a 3.5mm female adapter attached to use headphones for late night viewing...is there anything i can use to make this tv bluetooth headphone compatible so i could get rid of the cords?
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post #3518 of 3766 Old 04-18-2015, 09:57 AM
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i am using the audio out red/white cable with a 3.5mm female adapter attached to use headphones for late night viewing...is there anything i can use to make this tv bluetooth headphone compatible so i could get rid of the cords?
This worked for me: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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post #3519 of 3766 Old 04-18-2015, 06:36 PM
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I've got an M602i-B3 from 2014. Anyone know a way around the clipping issue?
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post #3520 of 3766 Old 04-19-2015, 05:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevious View Post
I've got an M602i-B3 from 2014. Anyone know a way around the clipping issue?
Nevious,

What do you mean by "clipping?" I've noticed some blending together of levels in the ramp, that resemble a sort of "clipping." Haven't noticed it on all picture modes.
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post #3521 of 3766 Old 04-19-2015, 05:52 AM
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No Sound on M600 Smart TV channels

Well, I finally connected my TV (M600-B3) to my network. Went to try a few of the channels and no sound. I am using an AV receiver connected to my TV audio/video with HDMI. Has anybody experienced this and what did you do to remedy this no sound problem?
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post #3522 of 3766 Old 04-19-2015, 11:20 AM
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Chromecast->M422i->Denon AVR591 (via ARC), no surround sound

I have a Chromecast plugged into my TV and have been unable to get stereo output from it.

The TV is connected to a DenonAVR-591 with sound carried over ARC. The TV built-in apps are delivering surround sound, just not the Chromecast (tried with both netflix and plex). It looks like the TV identifies itself as a stereo-only device to the Chromecast. I'm familiar with this issue when using the optical output on the TV, but I thought it was supposed to work with ARC.

TV settings:
Audio:
TV speakers: off
Surround Sound: on
Digital Audio Out: bitstream

System: CEC:
CEC: on
System Audio Control: on

Firmware V1.60.10-018.00000
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post #3523 of 3766 Old 04-20-2015, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwrandall View Post
Well, I finally connected my TV (M600-B3) to my network. Went to try a few of the channels and no sound. I am using an AV receiver connected to my TV audio/video with HDMI. Has anybody experienced this and what did you do to remedy this no sound problem?
ARC/CEC activated on both TV and AVR?

td
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post #3524 of 3766 Old 04-20-2015, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by preiter1 View Post
I have a Chromecast plugged into my TV and have been unable to get stereo output from it.

The TV is connected to a DenonAVR-591 with sound carried over ARC. The TV built-in apps are delivering surround sound, just not the Chromecast (tried with both netflix and plex). It looks like the TV identifies itself as a stereo-only device to the Chromecast. I'm familiar with this issue when using the optical output on the TV, but I thought it was supposed to work with ARC.

TV settings:
Audio:
TV speakers: off
Surround Sound: on
Digital Audio Out: bitstream

System: CEC:
CEC: on
System Audio Control: on

Firmware V1.60.10-018.00000
Is your Chromecast connected to the TV or the DENON?

Mine is connected to the DENON 2100 which I select as an independent source not reliant on ARC/CEC.
ARC is only used when I select native TV sources (OTA, onboard apps).

Chromecast provides correct audio this way as the source to the TV is the DENON not the Chromecast directly.

td.
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post #3525 of 3766 Old 04-20-2015, 11:55 AM
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Have a 322i-b1. Small, trivial (to me, but not so to my wife) screen size problem. When using the remote and pushing the screen picture size, instead of bringing up the screen size menu the tv changes inputs. It goes from the tv to my raspberry pi media center. The pi is connected via HDMI and CEC is enabled. Has anyone else experienced this? Is it a big thing? No, not to me, I can live with it. However, the better half gets flustered and then calls her tech support into the room (yeah, 'cause I am great at tech support.) Any thoughts? Thank you.
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post #3526 of 3766 Old 04-20-2015, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tvted View Post
Is your Chromecast connected to the TV or the DENON?

Mine is connected to the DENON 2100 which I select as an independent source not reliant on ARC/CEC.
ARC is only used when I select native TV sources (OTA, onboard apps).

Chromecast provides correct audio this way as the source to the TV is the DENON not the Chromecast directly.

td.
It is plugged into the TV directly. When I plug it into the receiver, I do get surround sound, but I get audio dropouts when I am listening to other inputs. This is really annoying when listening to music.
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post #3527 of 3766 Old 04-21-2015, 02:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by preiter1 View Post
It is plugged into the TV directly. When I plug it into the receiver, I do get surround sound, but I get audio dropouts when I am listening to other inputs. This is really annoying when listening to music.
Are you listening to sources via the TV speakers or, speakers connected to the DENON? If you are listening via the TV speakers you might try another HDMI cable. If you are using ARC be sure that HDMI cable is at least 1.4 compatible which is when Ethernet became part of the spec. The Ethernet pins on the HDMI connector is what ARC uses.

I find it unlikely that the Chromecast would be causing dropouts on other sources. Have you tried the Chromecast on another HDMI input?

td
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post #3528 of 3766 Old 04-21-2015, 09:57 AM
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Can anyone who has had their TV Replaced under warranty tell me how it went about? Do they give you a specific time in which they will arrive?

I bought my M602i-b3 last year from Sam's Club in Buffalo and brought it back to Canada. There is a slight problem with it now (nothing to bad) but they have offered to replace it but only in the US. I was thinking of meeting them in a Hotel Parking Lot or should I get an actual room? I can theoretically plug it into my car and test it. What paper work do they need?
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post #3529 of 3766 Old 04-21-2015, 12:47 PM
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Can't find the right term or anyone else who has had a similar circumstance with their set during my searches.

When I change inputs, stations or there is a dramatic change in a scene, regardless of the input source, the screen is blown-out or washed-out and it takes it a second or two to come into focus and get the colors and brightness correct. This also happens with the on-screen display. I've tried changing every setting to off-on-auto that I can find with no change. Other than this, the picture is great.

Had my M551d-A2 for about a year now. When I first purchased it, I got it all calibrated and was excited, enjoying the picture. After some time, one night, the screen went almost completely black with a vague appearance of images. Before contacting support, and trying to get it to respond, I decided to reset the TV in a last attempt. It brought everything back but of course, all of my settings were gone. I then went back and put in my calibration settings.

I think it's been ever since then that I've had this weird blooming issue when I change input, channels or drastically different scenes. Don't recall if it did it before the blackout and I don't remember? Is this normal for this model? If not, anyone else have it?
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post #3530 of 3766 Old 04-22-2015, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvted View Post
Are you listening to sources via the TV speakers or, speakers connected to the DENON? If you are listening via the TV speakers you might try another HDMI cable. If you are using ARC be sure that HDMI cable is at least 1.4 compatible which is when Ethernet became part of the spec. The Ethernet pins on the HDMI connector is what ARC uses.

I find it unlikely that the Chromecast would be causing dropouts on other sources. Have you tried the Chromecast on another HDMI input?

td
I tried it on multiple different inputs, same issue. Unplugged the chromecast from power, issue went away. My suspicion would be a firmware issue on the Denon, the Chromecast is periodically outputting some signal and the Denon responds even though the Chromecast input is not selected.

The cable is definitely fine because audio is fine when using the TV's built in apps.
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post #3531 of 3766 Old 04-22-2015, 09:16 PM
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Is the optical audio out suppose to work on all inputs when running it directly from the TV to the AVR? Getting no audio when running the youtube app or when playing the WIIU for surround sound through my receiver and I don't know what's wrong.


I had a 9 year old Samsung that died on me my set up with my old HK receiver with no HDMI hook ups worked perfectly for surround sound but the same set up with the vizio m422i-b1 I'm getting no audio from the optical out direct TV into the AVR. Can somebody help?
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post #3532 of 3766 Old 04-23-2015, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by preiter1 View Post
I tried it on multiple different inputs, same issue. Unplugged the chromecast from power, issue went away. My suspicion would be a firmware issue on the Denon, the Chromecast is periodically outputting some signal and the Denon responds even though the Chromecast input is not selected.

The cable is definitely fine because audio is fine when using the TV's built in apps.
Wired or wireless on the DENON? If wireless, it might be a bandwidth issue.

td
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post #3533 of 3766 Old 04-24-2015, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by tvnovus View Post
Nevious,

What do you mean by "clipping?" I've noticed some blending together of levels in the ramp, that resemble a sort of "clipping." Haven't noticed it on all picture modes.
Hard to get a decent photo of it. It's maybe more like some pretty serious banding coming out of highlights. Backgrounds in Daredevil on Netflix (via AppleTV) can get it pretty bad, and the blu-ray I watched of Interstellar was particularly awful. I've tried doing a ten-point grayscale calibration with a Spyder4, but the benefits have been minimal (actually color looks pretty good, but skin tones are a bit worse and the banding is still present).
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post #3534 of 3766 Old 04-24-2015, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by nevious View Post
Hard to get a decent photo of it. It's maybe more like some pretty serious banding coming out of highlights. Backgrounds in Daredevil on Netflix (via AppleTV) can get it pretty bad, and the blu-ray I watched of Interstellar was particularly awful. I've tried doing a ten-point grayscale calibration with a Spyder4, but the benefits have been minimal (actually color looks pretty good, but skin tones are a bit worse and the banding is still present).
I normally use one of the 2 calibrated settings: calibrated or calibrated dark. The behavior that I can see in different source materials, can be seen in the ramp in the color calibration menu. It is visible in the calibrated dark mode, and I was not able to adjust it out no matter what I moved. The 1 thing that improves the "clipping" is to use black level. I found this to be an improvement to the picture, overall, but it will crush the blacks on darker material. The calibrated mode does not blend the final levels of the ramp, so I leave black off and toggle between the 2 modes depending on what I watch. I'm not sure what video levels these are, but it is easily seen on ramps in the Spears and Munsil, and Mascior discs, or any other that have video level ramps.

Is your "banding" the light array? I exchanged my first set. It was really visible with certain scenes. My re-cert is much better in that sense. I have my color reduced to about 45, and don't notice skin tones, so much. If you don't mind the soap opera, engaging the smoother improves the processing. I prefer if off for movies and such, but use it for most broadcast materials: news, sports and such.

Hate to say it, but the set still seems a little "buggy" to me no matter how much adjustment I do. Not quite as nice as watching my VT50 or GT30. I'm keeping it for my "go to" for news watching, video games, everyday use.

I posted earlier that I thought the new firmware improved the contrasting issue, but it is still there, and will, probably, always be unless you happen to have the 1.34
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post #3535 of 3766 Old 04-25-2015, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by tvnovus View Post
I normally use one of the 2 calibrated settings: calibrated or calibrated dark. The behavior that I can see in different source materials, can be seen in the ramp in the color calibration menu. It is visible in the calibrated dark mode, and I was not able to adjust it out no matter what I moved. The 1 thing that improves the "clipping" is to use black level. I found this to be an improvement to the picture, overall, but it will crush the blacks on darker material. The calibrated mode does not blend the final levels of the ramp, so I leave black off and toggle between the 2 modes depending on what I watch. I'm not sure what video levels these are, but it is easily seen on ramps in the Spears and Munsil, and Mascior discs, or any other that have video level ramps.

Is your "banding" the light array? I exchanged my first set. It was really visible with certain scenes. My re-cert is much better in that sense. I have my color reduced to about 45, and don't notice skin tones, so much. If you don't mind the soap opera, engaging the smoother improves the processing. I prefer if off for movies and such, but use it for most broadcast materials: news, sports and such.

Hate to say it, but the set still seems a little "buggy" to me no matter how much adjustment I do. Not quite as nice as watching my VT50 or GT30. I'm keeping it for my "go to" for news watching, video games, everyday use.

I posted earlier that I thought the new firmware improved the contrasting issue, but it is still there, and will, probably, always be unless you happen to have the 1.34
I do have 1.34! Which is good. I realized last night that the banding is caused entirely by the active LED, which I simply turned off. That's a bummer, but I've been impressed by my panel's uniformity and I suppose I'd much rather forsake the zones in favor of not dealing with awful highlights.
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post #3536 of 3766 Old 04-25-2015, 12:11 PM
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Is 1080p/120 Hz (1080p120, 1080p/120 fps) possible on the M602i-B3? I have a PC with an AMD 5670 graphics card; I can do 720p120 but not 1080p120.

I know that my AMD card is somewhat low-end. I'm wondering if a higher-end card would work with 1080p120.

Is it possible to send 1080p120 over one HDMI connection? Are the connectors on the TV able to handle it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neuner View Post
Can't find the right term or anyone else who has had a similar circumstance with their set during my searches.

When I change inputs, stations or there is a dramatic change in a scene, regardless of the input source, the screen is blown-out or washed-out and it takes it a second or two to come into focus and get the colors and brightness correct. This also happens with the on-screen display. I've tried changing every setting to off-on-auto that I can find with no change. Other than this, the picture is great.

Had my M551d-A2 for about a year now. When I first purchased it, I got it all calibrated and was excited, enjoying the picture. After some time, one night, the screen went almost completely black with a vague appearance of images. Before contacting support, and trying to get it to respond, I decided to reset the TV in a last attempt. It brought everything back but of course, all of my settings were gone. I then went back and put in my calibration settings.

I think it's been ever since then that I've had this weird blooming issue when I change input, channels or drastically different scenes. Don't recall if it did it before the blackout and I don't remember? Is this normal for this model? If not, anyone else have it?
On my M602i-B3, something similar to this happens, but I'm not sure if it's what you're talking about. When changing inputs, the screen starts brighter, than dims. I believe this is because of active LED zones / local dimming. If not, my next guess would be the screen having a default brightness when you switch, and having to tone it down after the input is selected.

I wouldn't call it dramatic on my screen. It's a slight change in brightness; everything stays in focus.

When FALD is active and I bring up the TV menu, that part of the screen gets brighter after around 1 second.
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post #3537 of 3766 Old 04-25-2015, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monomial View Post

On my M602i-B3, something similar to this happens, but I'm not sure if it's what you're talking about. When changing inputs, the screen starts brighter, than dims. I believe this is because of active LED zones / local dimming. If not, my next guess would be the screen having a default brightness when you switch, and having to tone it down after the input is selected.

I wouldn't call it dramatic on my screen. It's a slight change in brightness; everything stays in focus.

When FALD is active and I bring up the TV menu, that part of the screen gets brighter after around 1 second.
Yes, yours sounds similar. Wish I could figure out if it's normal, some issue with my set or part of the picture adjustment I'm not aware of.

What is FALD?
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post #3538 of 3766 Old 04-28-2015, 11:48 AM
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What is FALD?
Fat and bald. Usually, a middle-aged male.
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post #3539 of 3766 Old 04-28-2015, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Neuner View Post
Yes, yours sounds similar. Wish I could figure out if it's normal, some issue with my set or part of the picture adjustment I'm not aware of.

What is FALD?

Full Array Local Dimming


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post #3540 of 3766 Old 04-30-2015, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neuner View Post
When I change inputs, stations or there is a dramatic change in a scene, regardless of the input source, the screen is blown-out or washed-out and it takes it a second or two to come into focus and get the colors and brightness correct. This also happens with the on-screen display. I've tried changing every setting to off-on-auto that I can find with no change. Other than this, the picture is great.
Saw that I had a firmware update overnight. Fixed the problem. Very happy that the image is back to the way it use to be. Now just need it to stay....stay....stay.

I need to look deeper into the settings but is there a way to turn off automatic updates? I don't want them screwing with MY set anymore.
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