Official 2015 Vizio 4K UHD M Series Thread - Page 119 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3541 of 16411 Old 08-30-2015, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rgathright
Are these screens reflective or not?

I thought I read that matte screens are not and doesn't these models have matte screens. Lights reflecting in the screen bugs the h*** out of me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeto View Post
Yes it is reflective. It is a light-scattering type of reflection (blurry/hazy/foggy) but a reflection none-the-less. Visit any electronics store and see for yourself. There is nothing matte about the panel. Some reviews say it is semi-matte which I also disagree with. Go check them out for yourself and let us know what you think.
All screens have some degree of reflectivity. The Panels used on the M series are not of the high gloss "glare" type. The panel suppliers refer to this type as "Anti glare" or semi-matte. This is to distinguish this type from full gloss or "glare" type, and full matte, which is duller than the Vizio panels used in the M series.

My previous TV (JVC 46" LT-46FN97) had a full matte panel. It still has some degree of reflectivity.
The Vizio has better daylight performance than the JVC had, but there is some extra reflectivity.

These days, there are few TVs with full matte panels, and they tend to be on lower end product.

Regardless of what you call it, Yeto's suggestion of seeing the set in person is a good one. Keep in mind that the lighting in a retail store environment will be different than your home.

If your retailer has a decent return policy, you can try the set at home with the ability to return it if it is too reflective for your tastes. In that case. the challenge will be to find a set with similar picture quality with a full matte panel.

To add some detail, this is the panel that most likely(by process of elimination) is in the M60C3:
http://www.panelook.com/LK601R3LA19_...iew_12633.html

In the overview, note the surface specification.

Last edited by videoguy60467; 08-30-2015 at 07:47 PM.
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post #3542 of 16411 Old 08-30-2015, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpgxsvcd View Post
Buy a new receiver with at least dual HDMI outputs and HDCP 2.2. That is the only thing that will effectively do what you want it to do.
Other than the HDCP 2.2, I do have dual HDMI out. With a little playing around, I hooked Main out to HDMI 1, Sub out to HDMI 5 and turned of Audio TV out for Sub. That seems to have gotten everything working right with ARC, and input assignment. If I want to watch a blu-ray, I can switch to HDMI 1 on the TV and should be good to go. Thanks for the idea.

On the 444 issue, seems like it's working for me. Looks great.
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post #3543 of 16411 Old 08-30-2015, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by uhmgawa View Post
I need the TV to turn its backlight off when the PC's screen saver kicks in and reenable it when the screensaver snaps back.

..don't function as such and complain of "No Signal" when the screensaver kicks in. And the best either can do as an option is permanently turning off the power after 10-15m of signal loss. Unfortunately that makes reenable of the tv a manual and slow operation.
Anyone here using this UHD tv as a computer monitor in their daily work? I'm starting to wonder given no follow up thus far to my earlier post above, concerning the apparent lack of automatic screen blanking/enable on HDMI drive cut/restore.
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post #3544 of 16411 Old 08-30-2015, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videoguy60467 View Post
Originally Posted by rgathright
Are these screens reflective or not?

I thought I read that matte screens are not and doesn't these models have matte screens. Lights reflecting in the screen bugs the h*** out of me.



All screens have some degree of reflectivity. The Panels used on the M series are not of the high gloss "glare" type. The panel suppliers refer to this type as "Anti glare" or semi-matte. This is to distinguish this type from full gloss or "glare" type, and full matte, which is duller than the Vizio panels used in the M series.

My previous TV (JVC 46" LT-46FN97) had a full matte panel. It still has some degree of reflectivity.
The Vizio has better daylight performance than the JVC had, but there is some extra reflectivity.

These days, there are few TVs with full matte panels, and they tend to be on lower end product.

Regardless of what you call it, Yeto's suggestion of seeing the set in person is a good one. Keep in mind that the lighting in a retail store environment will be different than your home.

If your retailer has a decent return policy, you can try the set at home with the ability to return it if it is too reflective for your tastes. In that case. the challenge will be to find a set with similar picture quality with a full matte panel.

To add some detail, this is the panel that most likely(by process of elimination) is in the M60C3:
http://www.panelook.com/LK601R3LA19_...iew_12633.html

In the overview, note the surface specification.
I looked at the panel in a M60 and a M65 today and they both had the same sub-pixel structure. Think of 4 squares with a black cross in the middle of each square. Would anyone have a link to a photo of this sub-pixel?
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post #3545 of 16411 Old 08-30-2015, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salparadiserj View Post
Hi guys, I'm looking to pull the trigger on an M series today but am having a heck of a time deciding between the 60 and 65" versions. I understand that each size is equipped with a different panel. Is there a significant difference between the two? I'd much rather grab the 60" for my viewing distance of about 7ft, but I want to be sure that the 65 isn't that much better from a performance standpoint as value-wise its unbeatable.
I looked at both panels today with a 60x scope and they both have the same sub-pixel structure. I don't know if this information will help you because I don't know if Vizio uses the same panel in every TV. It is well documented that Samsung will use different panels in the same model TV and I don't know if Vizio does the same thing.

Last edited by Yeto; 08-31-2015 at 04:33 AM.
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post #3546 of 16411 Old 08-30-2015, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by uhmgawa View Post
Anyone here using this UHD tv as a computer monitor in their daily work? I'm starting to wonder given no follow up thus far to my earlier post above, concerning the apparent lack of automatic screen blanking/enable on HDMI drive cut/restore.
I have had my desktop hooked up since day one and have not had issues with screensavers. The back cannot be controlled because of something specific on the computer like a screensaver coming on or off.

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post #3547 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mpgxsvcd View Post
Reduce Judder = 2 for slight improvement in motion without the soap opera effect. Otherwise zero except for with computers. Select 9 for desktop computer use.
It is my understanding the M is capable of 1080p24. What improvement are you seeing by setting Reduce Judder to 2?
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post #3548 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 05:49 AM
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Could some of you who are computer experts take a look at post 115 in the following thread and see if you could help this person? He may still be within his return period and you may be able to tell him if the M would be better for what he is trying to accomplish. The ju6500 thread does not get much action.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...-thread-4.html
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post #3549 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mboojigga View Post
I have had my desktop hooked up since day one and have not had issues with screensavers. The back cannot be controlled because of something specific on the computer like a screensaver coming on or off.
The backlight alone is the issue as it should be disabled in order to substantially reduce power consumption and extend the finite life of the LED backlight. The the PC will disable HDMI drive when blanking the screen and reenable it when coming out of screensaver. The M43 reports loss of signal rather than blanking its screen (LED backlight off) which may be fine for video use but really doesn't work for dedicated full time monitor usage. Yet it is perplexing an option doesn't exist such that the screen backlight enable follows the HDMI signal given this device supports a "PC" mode.

There is a remote sequence which will forcibly disable the backlight and could be used to accomplish this automatically but that's a tad convoluted as it requires an external uC hooked into the PC's screensaver. A more straightforward approach would be CEC control however I'm not certain what commands this Vizio supports. Anyone controlling this device as a CEC follower (vs. initiator)?
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post #3550 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Campbell View Post
No, this is showing only 4:2:2, as it's supposed to. I have a 4:4:4 capable LG that shows it correctly, and it's quite different - the "4:4:4" on the bottom is a much darker shade than the background, and the "4:2:2" at the top is very difficult to read. Not at all like the photo you're showing. Can you try this same image while outputting 4:4:4? See if it looks different.

I admit I'm stumped regarding your first set of images. I can't reproduce what you've created there - I get color bleeding on text even if I'm sending 4:4:4. Regarding your comments about scaling and bit depth, I'm afraid I'm not sure quite what you're arguing. If EITHER of those are the issue here, the problem is much worse than a simple lack of 4:4:4 chroma support. Bit depth is very obvious if it's off, and it's no different for the Vizio than any other set given the same 32 bit input from your graphics control panel. If you're suggesting that the Vizio just can't scale the image properly, then the entire image would be soft when displaying a desktop. But over/underscan would not flip flop the test image results for some reason. It's the color, not the sharpness or scaling that's inverting the image. Frankly, if the issue were that the Vizio isn't scaling correctly, then this would be unusable as a PC monitor regardless.

I agreed with your assertion that a lack of 4:4:4 chroma for the Vizio isn't a critical issue for the majority of users, and probably not noticeable in many use cases. See this thread for a more in depth discussion of this: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...ng-thread.html It's somewhat dated, but no less relevant today.

I'll get off the stage now and let everyone else figure this out. For my purposes, I'm satisfied with my Vizio set, regardless of whether it can or cannot do 4:4:4.
The problem is that the test pattern has more going on with it than just 4:4:4. That test pattern is specifically designed so that if any one of the following items(4:4:4, Bit Depth, 1:1 pixel mapping, and color gamut) are not aligned with the input material the display will fail the test. It is designed to determine if a display can be used for critical image editing or not instead of just testing for general computer use.

The Vizio Displays have the lowest color gamut of all of the current 4K TVs. They all barely register above the REC.709 specification. Therefore, it passes the 4:4:4 chroma subsampling portion of the test pattern but fails because it can’t cover the colors that the test pattern is encoded with. That is why the 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 are visible simultaneously but the colors are not correct.

In addition I have never seen confirmation either way whether the Vizio M-series is 10 bit or not. Everything posted so far has just been conjecture based on what someone else has said. I have never seen any evidence either way to demonstrate what it does for bit depth. This is could also be another factor in why it is 4:4:4 but does not pass that specific test.

I am not saying that the Vizio M-series produces the exact same image as the Samsung TVs when hooked up to a computer. In fact I am saying the exact opposite. The Samsung SUHD TVs all cover a much broader color spectrum than the Vizio TVs. In addition they are definitely at least 10 bit as well as 1:1 pixel mapped.

For critical image editing the Samsung TVs would be the only option but not just because they are 4:4:4.

What I want people to realize is that the test picture is designed to demonstrate whether a TV can be used for critical image editing and not whether it can be used for general monitor use. All you need for general monitor use is 4:4:4 and I have shown that the Vizio TVs can do that.

If you aren’t doing critical image editing you don’t need a TV that passes that all-encompassing test pattern. You just need a 4:4:4 4K Display.

I really want everyone to recognize what each individual component is important for instead of just following a blanket stereotype that if it doesn’t pass that particular test it is useless.

So many people believe that the Vizio TV is not 4:4:4 capable yet they can’t see any issues at all when they use the TV hooked up to a computer. That has caused some people(including myself at one point) to say that 4:4:4 isn’t critical for computer use when in fact it is truly the most important component of those I listed for general computer use. Without 4:4:4 there will be extensive color bleeding along contrasting edges that is visible from all reasonable distances.

The Vizio TVs don’t exhibit any of the issues that are associated with 4:2:2 or 4:2:0. However, they most certainly exhibit the issues with the reduced color spectrum and in all likelihood they probably also have issues with bit depth as well.

That doesn’t mean that they can’t be used for everything but critical image editing though.
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post #3551 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 06:33 AM
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Campbell View Post
I admit I'm stumped regarding your first set of images. I can't reproduce what you've created there - I get color bleeding on text even if I'm sending 4:4:4.
What video card, resolution, frame rate, and drivers are you using? Could you take a picture of the bleeding and post it? You also have to make sure that ALL scaling is turned off. There are many different places that scaling can be applied(Windows 10 automatically scales by default. The video card drivers can scale. Your browser can scale as well.) I made sure I had all of those scaling parameters turned off but that still doesn't mean that something else including the TV itself was not doing some sort of scaling.
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post #3552 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 09:04 AM
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What is funny is that I don't know anyone that has a M-series take a tv back because of issues with the computer. Or specifically if it was 4:4:4 or not. No way I would have had this tv for 3 months now if I was having color bleed or any issues related to the tv with my system hooked up to it.
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The 5.0 is here
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post #3553 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 10:16 AM
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Anyone have experience with both the E series and M series this year? I was originally planning on getting the E series but the great reviews here on the M series have me rethinking. I'm not sure I need 4k at this point but apparently the larger E series sets have some input lag and other issues that the M seems to handle well. The difference in price isn't really an issue for me but I'd rather not spend if there isn't a big difference sans the 4k.
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post #3554 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 10:58 AM
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I just hooked up the m60 and i'm trying to update the software, but don't see that setting. Do I need to do it through the usb? Or is it possible to do it over the net?
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post #3555 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 11:18 AM
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Do all the C1's have the same panel manufacturer?

LG OLED65B6P. Klipsch: RF82, RC62, RS52, RB61, RP-140SA. SVS PB-U13. Denon 6300H. Oppo 103D. Oppo UPD 203.
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post #3556 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmattoo View Post
I just hooked up the m60 and i'm trying to update the software, but don't see that setting. Do I need to do it through the usb? Or is it possible to do it over the net?
There is a check for updates option in one of the menus. Then you turn your TV off overnight and the newest version should be installed. It should have UHD in the version number.
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post #3557 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmattoo View Post
I just hooked up the m60 and i'm trying to update the software, but don't see that setting. Do I need to do it through the usb? Or is it possible to do it over the net?
I purchased the m70 from Costco last week and it updated automatically with the internal Wi-Fi enabled.
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post #3558 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 03:31 PM
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2015 M-series - firmware 1.2.23-UHD

General TV viewingOnly Use HDMI 1-4 with these settings. Only plug a computer or gaming console into HDMI 5. My video will explain this in more detail.

Auto Brightness Control = Off

Backlight(Subjective) = 63-77

Brightness = 50 for Auto or YCbCr color space. 31,32, or 33 for RGB color Space.

Contrast = 50. Any other value here clips the signal with Auto, YCbCr, or RGB color space. You have been warned.

Color = 58, 59, or 60. Just trust me on this one. You can select any value you want here within reason but 58, 59, or 60 will be the optimal choice for calibrating the rest of the colors. 59 was the optimal choice for my M80-C3 and my M55 TVs.

Tint = 0 Don’t change this value. It is much better to use the fine color controls.

Sharpness(Subjective) = 18-25 I chose 18 for low quality sources and 22 for high quality ones

More Picture options:

Color Temperature(Subjective) – Normal if you want accurate. Computer if you want slightly cooler. Never use Cool. It is just wrong. It is Ironic that Cool is the default value.

Black Detail(Subjective) – Low. None of the other values work properly. Either use Off or Low. Don’t use Medium or High. Those two are broken and need a firmware update.

Active LED Zones – On pretty much always. If you see brightness pumping then turn it off but that is extremely rare as in only 1 Netflix show has it. Otherwise it needs to be on.

Reduce Judder = 2 for slight improvement in motion without the soap opera effect. Otherwise zero except for with computers. Select 9 for desktop computer use.

Reduce Motion Blur = Always 9 or Off. My video will explain this in more detail. 9 does not produce any Soap Opera Effect with 60p sources.

Clear Action – Off Always. The amount of screen darkening with the M-series is too great for this setting to be useful. Turning up the backlight cannot correct it. However, this setting is very effective with my 50 inch P-series.

Reduce Signal Noise = High. Always, Always, Always use High here even with high quality well produced Hollywood 1080p Blu-rays. Just trust me here. My video will explain this in detail. Always use High.

Reduce Block Noise = Off or Low. Perhaps Medium if the source is really over compressed.

Game Low Latency – Always Off for any input except for HDMI 5. Only use a computer or gaming console with HDMI 5. Never ever plug a Blu-ray player into HDMI 5. HDMI 5 disables the Reduce Signal Noise function which is ALWAYS necessary for even the highest quality movies. You have been warned.

Film Mode = Doesn’t matter. This setting is broken. You can pick Auto or Off and it will do the same thing.

Color Space = Auto. Don’t pick RGB. You really aren’t improving things by doing that. You have been warned.

Gamma(Subjective) = 1.8 will give you the most shadow detail. 2.4 will clip the most shadow detail. Somewhere in between is a good choice. I choose 2.0 for most things.

Color Calibration Settings: These settings are TV dependent. My settings are a good starting place but you will need to take you own measurements to be sure. Don't use the 11-point color balance settings. They are not precise enough to be effective.

M80-C3
Normal Color Profile:
Brightness, Offset
Red: 13, 2
Green: -23, -6
Blue: 10, -6

Ordered my M65 directly from Vizio and had delivered approx. 3 weeks ago. This is replacing a 10 yr old Panasonic TH50PX20 50" plasma that is actually still going strong. Have used CNET, Rtings and both personal and other forum recommendations but the settings above + color tweaks (although not geared directly to my TV) have provided the best picture and color I've seen to date. Colors are highly realistic and re-watching 4k content on Netflix (The Blacklist for example) have been eye opening in terms of picture quality and simple things such as clothing color. Thank you 'mpgxsvcd' for sharing!
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post #3559 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 04:06 PM
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Pros and Cons of HDMI 5 and Nvidia Shield TV, explained to a non techie.... (I have the m70-c3)

Can you help me understand what I'm gaining and loosing by hooking my Nvidia Shield TV to HDMI 5?

The Shield is capable of outputing 4k at 60fps. YouTube videos captured in 4k 60 fps and Netflix 4k look dazzlingly on HDMI 5.

Games on HDMI 5 look great as well. The Shield can output games at 60fps.

So by using HDMI 5, I think I am gaining rich 4k video and fast gaming right?

What I loose out on is if I watch videos/movies on my Shield thats encoded lower then 4k, like in 1080p or 720p right?

If that's the case, that might be OK. My Comcast and blueray are on HDMI 1&2.

Am I correct?
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post #3560 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erzak View Post
I want to raise the height of my M65-C1 by ~3-4” so I can put my center channel speaker on the TV bench (below the TV) and not have it obscure the screen (speaker is 6" in height). The practical part of me says I grab some old bricks or pavers from the back yard and put an old towel or something underneath them so they don’t scratch the surface of the TV stand. But that would not be very attractive, and since I am married, I have to give some regard to that sort of thing…

Another thought I had was using glass blocks, like what’s used in bathroom windows, since those are 4” thick and it would look cool. But I’m a little leery of that as they are typically hollow, and not sure how much weight they can support. That would not be good if one cracked and the TV tipped over. A cat, dog, or child might get squished, plus the TV would likely be toast.

So my next thought was wood. The legs are 11” from front to back, and ~1” wide, so something the width of a 2x4 or 1x3 would be wide enough, but not thick enough. But they could possibly be stacked and glued together to get to the desired height, then sanded and finished. Or possibly it'd be better to find something that is more the actual 3-4” thickness I want? I think the TV weighs about 60 lbs or so, I’m not a mechanical engineer but I’d assume the weight is reasonably equally distributed between the two sets of legs?

Has anyone done this sort of thing before? Any thoughts are welcome.

Thanks,
Eric
I'm in the same boat as you. My TV is on top of a credenza and I need to raise it 3-1/2 to 4" to allow for my center speaker. I planned on building a rectangle box that extends the width of the TV at about 2" greater than the depth of the feet. Now I am thinking about the stand DrJazz posted.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJazz View Post
I just bought this stand to replace the legs on my M70. I didn't need to raise my TV like you require, but rather where the TV sits isn't wide enough for the legs. However, this stand has several height positions so you can put the TV at whichever position you prefer.

You're probably looking for a cheaper DIY solution, but I was pleasantly surprised by this unit's sturdiness and flexibility. I wasn't so fond of the glass base (I hate reflections) but I just assembled it with the base upside down (the bottom is matte black) and problem solved.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/50-14797
Ive been debating getting one of these stands. The problem is, I cant find a picture of a 70" TV on one. Like the previous poster, I need room for my center speaker. I need another 3-1/2 to 4" between the bottom of the TV and the top of my credenza. Can you please post a picture of your setup?

Quote:
Originally Posted by stikle View Post
I did exactly this when I got my new (bigger) center channel. It was blocking the bottom edge of the screen when sitting on the entertainment center in front of it. So, four 4x4's as legs just high enough to clear the CC, and a piece of plywood cut to size and screwed to them for the TV base. I slid the CC under the new stand, covered the entire thing with black velvet, and set the TV on top of the stand. Perfecto for my needs.
Can you please post a picture of your setup?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikub View Post
Ohh and I forgot to mention that if anyone is interested in the 70 inch version Sam's club has it on sale for 1698.99. I took that into best buy and they will price match and if you don't have a best buy credit card when you sign up they give you an extra 10% off your purchase so it dropped it down to 1520.00 before taxes. The sale price ends August 30th though.
I picked mine up from Sams. Sounds like you got a good deal from BB.

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Originally Posted by venus933 View Post
There's no suspense there, it will have both plus 384 dimming zones. The question is how well the TV will execute. On paper the TV has killer specs.

Vizio R series
how well it will execute and if the additional features are worth the $$$$ it will probably cost. Any word on pricing?
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post #3561 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 06:23 PM
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Here's a picture of the stand I made. 1" x 12" x 6' board. Cut off two 7.5" long sections, attach with brackets: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KL0IL0

I have the M60, but the M65 would fit. Don't know about the M70.
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post #3562 of 16411 Old 08-31-2015, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by stikle View Post
I did exactly this when I got my new (bigger) center channel. It was blocking the bottom edge of the screen when sitting on the entertainment center in front of it. So, four 4x4's as legs just high enough to clear the CC, and a piece of plywood cut to size and screwed to them for the TV base. I slid the CC under the new stand, covered the entire thing with black velvet, and set the TV on top of the stand. Perfecto for my needs.
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Originally Posted by spydermonkey311 View Post
Can you please post a picture of your setup?

When I was taking my pics I realized that the previous riser I had made used 4x4's. This one uses 2x4's and I have a little trepidation about side to side wobble. The 4x4's were much sturdier, I just didn't have any on hand. It took maybe 5 minutes to measure how high I needed and cut the 2x4's. I re-used the plywood as it was already the perfect dimension.

I have trepidation now because of my two new kittens. They are all over the place. I'm afraid they'll knock the TV down. I found one of them behind the center channel the other night...and the other one headed for the same place. <shaking my head> That's why the velvet is all messed up...but I almost kind of like it a little less neat. I like the look of that velvet vs black painted wood. Well, unless the stand is well finished. This is the extent I'm going to go to.

ANYWAY...here's mine:





Oh hey...I need to dust.

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post #3563 of 16411 Old 09-01-2015, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Rufio123 View Post
Pros and Cons of HDMI 5 and Nvidia Shield TV, explained to a non techie.... (I have the m70-c3)

Can you help me understand what I'm gaining and loosing by hooking my Nvidia Shield TV to HDMI 5?

The Shield is capable of outputing 4k at 60fps. YouTube videos captured in 4k 60 fps and Netflix 4k look dazzlingly on HDMI 5.

Games on HDMI 5 look great as well. The Shield can output games at 60fps.

So by using HDMI 5, I think I am gaining rich 4k video and fast gaming right?

What I loose out on is if I watch videos/movies on my Shield thats encoded lower then 4k, like in 1080p or 720p right?

If that's the case, that might be OK. My Comcast and blueray are on HDMI 1&2.

Am I correct?
At the moment no videos are recorded at 4K @ 60 FPS. Youtube doesn’t even allow that frame rate for that resolution. They will down convert everything to 4K @ 30 FPS if it exceeds 30 FPS for that resolution.

If your device is outputting 4K @ 60 FPS then it is doing some conversion to the footage which isn’t desirable. It should output the video in its native resolution and frame rate. Therefore, at the moment 4K @ 30 FPS should be the max that you need for the device. That could change with games in the future.

By using HDMI 5 you lose the ability to do the speckle noise control which is essential on these TVs for movies. Just try the new transformers movie on input 5 and you will understand what I mean.

You gain better input lag by using input 5 with game low latency enabled but you also lose the excellent motion control settings by doing that.

Honestly, HDMI input 5 is strictly a gaming input. If input lag is your absolute only priority then use HDMI input 5 with GLL turned on. Otherwise use HDMI input 1 with the “Reduce Signal Noise” set to high.
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post #3564 of 16411 Old 09-01-2015, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efball View Post
Here's a picture of the stand I made. 1" x 12" x 6' board. Cut off two 7.5" long sections, attach with brackets: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KL0IL0

I have the M60, but the M65 would fit. Don't know about the M70.
Here is my temporary solution. My wife is not happy with the look, but it works until I build something nicer. I'm debating between some 4x4 posts, one under each set of legs (similar to what the bricks are doing now) or building a plywood platform that the TV sits on and the speaker slides under.

Someone in another forum suggested putting the center channel behind the TV. Eyeballing it, there is enough room to do that, but more than half the speaker would be blocked by the TV, not sure how muffled the sound would be. May try it out, suppose I could always up the level of the center channel to compensate?

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post #3565 of 16411 Old 09-01-2015, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpgxsvcd View Post
By using HDMI 5 you lose the ability to do the speckle noise control which is essential on these TVs for movies. Just try the new transformers movie on input 5 and you will understand what I mean.
I'm waiting for you video on this because having to run noise reduction on High on any set being fed a good source seems like a major flaw. Are you sure this is not an artifact of your sharpness too high and seeing excess grain?
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post #3566 of 16411 Old 09-01-2015, 09:30 AM
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Is HDMI 5 the best option for HTPC using Netlflix Windows App and Power DVD for Blu-Ray?
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post #3567 of 16411 Old 09-01-2015, 09:37 AM
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post #3568 of 16411 Old 09-01-2015, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotbeef View Post
Joined the M70 club today. Pretty hard to pass up the Costco deal and square trade warranty. If the updated P is announced soon and seems like a worthy upgrade at a reasonable price, maybe I'll take advantage of the 90 day return policy and upgrade but I think this TV should keep me happy for awhile. My girl said if I decide to upgrade in a year or two, I can move the M to the living room and put the new tv in the theater/game room. We move into our new house in 9 days so I'm keeping it in the box until then but very excited to mount it and get it hooked up and dial it in!
Might be a silly question.. What is the updated P you mention.. is this a firmware update that fixes a particular issue?

Also.. what is everyone using to calibrate the M70-c3? Is it really necessary.. is something like a ps4/x1 calibration in the settings of the system good enough? I havent calibrated a set, since the days of Avia (but i had the same set for 7 years)

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post #3569 of 16411 Old 09-01-2015, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spydermonkey311 View Post
Ive been debating getting one of these stands. The problem is, I cant find a picture of a 70" TV on one. Like the previous poster, I need room for my center speaker. I need another 3-1/2 to 4" between the bottom of the TV and the top of my credenza. Can you please post a picture of your setup?
I don't have a good picture handy, but at the lowest setting of this stand there is about 4.5 inches of clearance from the bottom of my M70 to the base. At it's highest setting, I estimate the TV would have an additional 4 inches of clearance, so say a maximum of 8 to 9 inches.

Note, too, that the base of the stand is about 31 inches wide, and sticks out from the front of the TV by about 7 inches. The base itself it relatively thin - say about 1/4 inch thick, if that.

Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll try to answer them. If you still think a picture would be helpful, I'll try to snap a good one tonight.

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post #3570 of 16411 Old 09-01-2015, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotbeef View Post
Joined the M70 club today. Pretty hard to pass up the Costco deal and square trade warranty. If the updated P is announced soon and seems like a worthy upgrade at a reasonable price, maybe I'll take advantage of the 90 day return policy and upgrade but I think this TV should keep me happy for awhile. My girl said if I decide to upgrade in a year or two, I can move the M to the living room and put the new tv in the theater/game room. We move into our new house in 9 days so I'm keeping it in the box until then but very excited to mount it and get it hooked up and dial it in!
Might be a silly question.. What is the updated P you mention.. is this a firmware update that fixes a particular issue?

Also.. what is everyone using to calibrate the M70-c3? Is it really necessary.. is something like a ps4/x1 calibration in the settings of the system good enough? I havent calibrated a set, since the days of Avia (but i had the same set for 7 years)

Sorry, I guess I should say refreshed P series. It's the assumed 2015 P series Vizio that many believe will include HDR support and I'd figure a few tweaks to make it the superior model to the current M series. as far as calibration, mine won't be hooked up until next weekend since I'm moving but I planned on using either cnet's setting or one of the user's setting here as my starting point but I tend to like my picture a tad brighter than industry standard so I'll probably play around with settings a bit
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