Official 2015 Vizio 4K UHD M Series Thread - Page 371 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11101 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by vern7425 View Post
Well am about the heave the g":"#"damn computer in to the ravine!!


I hooked up both the TV and monitor with both dvi cables a miraculously both came on screen!! It recognized the M65, at 1080p and 24Hz. Cool I thought. I calibrated it and saved the profile. I then unplugged the computer monitor and BOTH screens went blank!! I did nothing other than remove the DVI connection from the monitor


None of this makes any sense
Just a thought, but have you tried (re)booting the computer while it's connected to the TV?
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post #11102 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 03:58 PM
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Anyone using the X-rite i1 display pro and HCFR on Win 10. If so, are you experiencing any problems?

Vizio M75-C1 Go Big or Go Home
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post #11103 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 04:06 PM
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Does anyone know what the fios box ( cable box ) outputs over hdmi? Is it YCbCr or RGB.? I Can't find anything on this
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post #11104 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Guardian1 View Post
Thank you SO much! I was looking for the best settings for the M70-C3 and heard there were some good ones on AVSForum.
While I understand everyone's setup is different, is there a way to know overall which of these comes out as the best resolution? There are some significant changes on this spreadsheet when filtering on M70-C3 there are 4 different ones.
Has anyone setup a "vote" for these or anything? Any help would be appreciated, will take a long time to go through all 4 of these settings. Will start now though

Last updated Jan 27, 2016
TV ModelPicture Mode BacklightBrightnessContrastColorTintSharpness1
M70-C3Calibrated/Calib.Dark83/67505050/5000
M70-C3?45574550010
M70-C3?70454754060
M70-C3?65505054-145

Thanks! G.

As it's been said a "few" times, you'll never get a consensus. People may choose one set of settings then adjust from there. Also remember that not all were done with equipment and software (some done by eye). You WILL see wide margins of differences then You also have to factor in what the poster was trying to achieve with said posted settings.

The short of it is, there is no easy or quick way to find the right settings. In some cases it takes DAYS to dial in settings and many hours of labor. I would suggest picking one set and seeing if you like it. If you do, live with them for ~2-3 weeks for you to adjust and get used to them. Jumping back and forth between settings is never a real good idea.


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post #11105 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jjthenovice View Post
Anyone using the X-rite i1 display pro and HCFR on Win 10. If so, are you experiencing any problems?
No problems here. What issue are you having?

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post #11106 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mroneeyedboh View Post
Does anyone know what the fios box ( cable box ) outputs over hdmi? Is it YCbCr or RGB.? I Can't find anything on this
Almost certainly YCbCr.
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post #11107 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by VBB View Post
Almost certainly YCbCr.
Thanks.
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post #11108 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by GorillaBot View Post
Just a thought, but have you tried (re)booting the computer while it's connected to the TV?
I think you said this is a Mac Pro. If so, you might want to shut down, unplug for about 10 minutes, attached to the TV, plug in and restart.
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post #11109 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by VBB View Post
No problems here. What issue are you having?
I'm just trying to see what I need. My old i1 (years old) is dead. I'm getting ready to purchase a new one and was wondering what, if any, problems that I would run into.
What type of drivers , dlls, etc does the i1 need to interface with HRFC? I realize this isn't a calibration thread but what the heck this is an active thread with many knowledgeable people. I'm wondering if the new FW 1.3.22 will fix the CMS?

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post #11110 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjthenovice View Post
I'm just trying to see what I need. My old i1 (years old) is dead. I'm getting ready to purchase a new one and was wondering what, if any, problems that I would run into.

What type of drivers , dlls, etc does the i1 need to interface with HRFC? I realize this isn't a calibration thread but what the heck this is an active thread with many knowledgeable people. I'm wondering if the new FW 1.3.22 will fix the CMS?

There is an active thread for the software in the calibration thread there are many many posts in that section as well that would probably give you a good idea


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post #11111 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
As it's been said a "few" times, you'll never get a consensus. People may choose one set of settings then adjust from there. Also remember that not all were done with equipment and software (some done by eye). You WILL see wide margins of differences then You also have to factor in what the poster was trying to achieve with said posted settings.

The short of it is, there is no easy or quick way to find the right settings. In some cases it takes DAYS to dial in settings and many hours of labor. I would suggest picking one set and seeing if you like it. If you do, live with them for ~2-3 weeks for you to adjust and get used to them. Jumping back and forth between settings is never a real good idea.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guardian1 View Post
Thank you SO much! I was looking for the best settings for the M70-C3 and heard there were some good ones on AVSForum.
While I understand everyone's setup is different, is there a way to know overall which of these comes out as the best resolution? There are some significant changes on this spreadsheet when filtering on M70-C3 there are 4 different ones.
Has anyone setup a "vote" for these or anything? Any help would be appreciated, will take a long time to go through all 4 of these settings. Will start now though

Last updated Jan 27, 2016
TV Model Picture Mode Backlight Brightness Contrast Color Tint Sharpness 1
M70-C3 Calibrated/Calib.Dark 83/67 50 50 50/50 0 0
M70-C3 ? 45 57 45 50 0 10
M70-C3 ? 70 45 47 54 0 60
M70-C3 ? 65 50 50 54 -1 45

Thanks! G.
I agree with Ph8te - all the settings are ultimately based on the specific Vizio that the measurements were taken on - each set has it's own distinctive properties. That being said - I have settled on mpgxscvd's settings as my starting point, and then used the Disney WOW calibration disc to make additional adjustments. You can probably consider any of the measurements based on a "C-3" panel and go from there. Again - remember there are many variables to consider - primary source material? - cable, satellite, gaming - some people prefer a totally dark room, while others may calibrate to accommodate different light conditions. Many reviews have suggested that the "Calibrated" and "Calibrated Dark" options are good starting points since they tended to measure fairly accurately out of the box. Don't despair - take your time and consider your options. Remember - you can load a number of different calibrations - and scroll between those to get an idea of how they look on your screen, in your room. Then based on your initial observations - select the setting(s) that look best and adjust to your satisfaction. Good luck!

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post #11112 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjthenovice View Post
I'm just trying to see what I need. My old i1 (years old) is dead. I'm getting ready to purchase a new one and was wondering what, if any, problems that I would run into.
What type of drivers , dlls, etc does the i1 need to interface with HRFC? I realize this isn't a calibration thread but what the heck this is an active thread with many knowledgeable people. I'm wondering if the new FW 1.3.22 will fix the CMS?
You don't need to install anything other than HCFR. The device itself is plug and play. You'll probably end up getting a rev. B, which is the latest and is supposed to measure faster. Don't count on Vizio to fix the CMS.
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post #11113 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggsantafe View Post
I agree with Ph8te - all the settings are ultimately based on the specific Vizio that the measurements were taken on - each set has it's own distinctive properties. That being said - I have settled on mpgxscvd's settings as my starting point, and then used the Disney WOW calibration disc to make additional adjustments. You can probably consider any of the measurements based on a "C-3" panel and go from there. Again - remember there are many variables to consider - primary source material? - cable, satellite, gaming - some people prefer a totally dark room, while others may calibrate to accommodate different light conditions. Many reviews have suggested that the "Calibrated" and "Calibrated Dark" options are good starting points since they tended to measure fairly accurately out of the box. Don't despair - take your time and consider your options. Remember - you can load a number of different calibrations - and scroll between those to get an idea of how they look on your screen, in your room. Then based on your initial observations - select the setting(s) that look best and adjust to your satisfaction. Good luck!
Agree, there are a lot of variables. I guess that's what I was hoping this spreadsheet would help with.
It would be nice to have a few additional fields (at least a comment field), showing how they setup these preferences, what source they were using.
I would love to have like:
1. All Dark - Sports
2. Lights On - Sports
3. All Dark - Netflix, PC, Sat, Etc.
4. Lights On - Etc. You get the idea.

like BoostM3's settings are horrendous on DirecTV and Netflix (built into TV), but I have a feeling if I connect my PC to it, it may shine and look great.
I get it, just was hoping I could find a great setting for ALL dark, as I love watching everything with lights off when possible, as I am not that comfortable with the deeper settings like:

Hue 1 Saturation 1 Brightness 1 Offset 1 Gain
Red Green Blue Cyan Magenta Yellow Red Green Blue Cyan Magenta Yellow Red Green Blue Cyan Magenta Yellow Red Green Blue Red Green Blue
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post #11114 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Chicopower View Post
Thx for this share.
I just used your Color Calibration settings and the result is very goood!
I will keep it!

Based on your settings, for your black details problem, try BackLight at 100.
At first it seem to be "extreme" but i use it everyday now at 100 without problems on my M50-C1 and this give me more details on low light scenes.
I'm glad my settings helped, but I don't think that setting backlight to 100 is such a good idea. First of all it makes the image way too bright and messes with your gamma.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
Oh.

A gamma of 2.2 is supposed to be "standard". Unless you know exactly what you're doing and are in a dark room, I'd stick with the standard and tweak from there. I have not done a colorimeter calibration session yet with my M60 (I'm partially trying to figure out what I want to set as a target in terms of gamma, active LED and the like) but I am sticking with 2.1 for daytime and 2.2 for night. I don't perceive any crushed blacks. The Active LED (which I continue to use) only increases the risk of crushing blacks.

I wouldn't be surprised at all to feel like blacks are crushed on 2.4 - you're running the risk of that by choosing that setting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VBB View Post
"Image area" is where you set the window size, and "APL (video) level" is used for the background. You want to set that to 100.


If you calibrate for use with the PC, then set the video card to RGB full (0-255) and the TV to RGB. If you calibrate for anything else, set video card and TV to YCbCr. I'm not 100% sure about what the Gray Scale (GDI) setting does in HCFR. I would think you want to set that according to your output, but you might want to ask in the HCFR thread, to be sure. I use madTPG as the pattern generator in HCFR.


Always use REC 709, yes. The M can't go any wider than that. It's recommended to use the REC 709 75/75 option in HCFR, because TVs with narrow gamuts like the M will be easier to dial in. You hardly ever see 100% saturation in content anyway.
Every time I use the meter I get different readings. Even if you just move it a couple of inches to the right or left, the readings change.
Today I ran a 20 step grey scale sweep and in the RGB levels there was too much red, more as the brightness decreased. Also the gamma was more like 2.45 instead of 2.4. As well as 5% RGB levels were way off with not enough green and too much red and blue.
I set gamma to 2.2, and made a few adjustments to level it out. I ended up with 5% at 2.2 exactly and the rest of it stayed at 2.25.
I think this improved black details quite a bit. I'm considering doing a full calibration again, only I'm not sure if there's a point to mess with it now that a new firmware (1.3.22?) could be just around the corner and could mess things up again.
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post #11115 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Coolest View Post
Every time I use the meter I get different readings. Even if you just move it a couple of inches to the right or left, the readings change.
Today I ran a 20 step grey scale sweep and in the RGB levels there was too much red, more as the brightness decreased. Also the gamma was more like 2.45 instead of 2.4. As well as 5% RGB levels were way off with not enough green and too much red and blue.
I set gamma to 2.2, and made a few adjustments to level it out. I ended up with 5% at 2.2 exactly and the rest of it stayed at 2.25.
I think this improved black details quite a bit. I'm considering doing a full calibration again, only I'm not sure if there's a point to mess with it now that a new firmware (1.3.22?) could be just around the corner and could mess things up again.
It's perfectly normal to get different readings if you move the meter. Best to use a positioning pattern and just put the meter in the center spot.


Gamma will read higher than the settings on the M. By default, Vizio uses a BT.1886 curve. I recommend to fine-tune that when calibrating instead of leveling out a flat gamma. BT.1886 will give you the best black/shadow detail. I also use 2.2 at night and 2.1 during the day.


Firmware updates rarely change grayscale/CMS characteristics, so it should be fine to calibrate any time, really.

Henry

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post #11116 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 08:11 PM
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So I just picked up the M65 C1 today. Coming from the Samsung UN607500 and so far I'm not blown away... Granted I haven't tried 4K content just yet but as far as color accuracy, blacks, and overall video detail and 'pop' I'm preferring my old set. My old set had an unfair advantage though, it was calibrated.

Sooooo..... it's time to calibrate. Are there some good posts in the thread on calibration settings for the M65? I've seen the 55 listed a few times but I can't seem to find the ones for the M65. Thanks!
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post #11117 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mrt2 View Post
So I just picked up the M65 C1 today. Coming from the Samsung UN607500 and so far I'm not blown away... Granted I haven't tried 4K content just yet but as far as color accuracy, blacks, and overall video detail and 'pop' I'm preferring my old set. My old set had an unfair advantage though, it was calibrated.



Sooooo..... it's time to calibrate. Are there some good posts in the thread on calibration settings for the M65? I've seen the 55 listed a few times but I can't seem to find the ones for the M65. Thanks!

The link to a spreadsheet of settings posted in this thread was just posted a page or two back.


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post #11118 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 08:23 PM
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Anyone else not getting email notifications from AVS any longer? Last time I received one was on 1/28.

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post #11119 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 08:38 PM
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Vbb same here, thought it was a one off... Guess not
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post #11120 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 08:54 PM
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Mod just told me he believes it's affecting everyone. He notified the techs.

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post #11121 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarguy316 View Post
i see you have directv, how do you feel about the picture on sports like espn? i feel it's not overly crisp
I do, and I'd say I am satisfied overall. Watching Monday Night Football this season I was really impressed with how crisp the picture looked. Watching college basketball games isn't as crisp. Same channel and picture settings, so I don't think it's the TV as much as the sources and equipment used in the broadcasts. I thought Sunday Night Football (NBC) looked off the chart great for what that's worth.

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post #11122 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guardian1 View Post
Agree, there are a lot of variables. I guess that's what I was hoping this spreadsheet would help with.
It would be nice to have a few additional fields (at least a comment field), showing how they setup these preferences, what source they were using.
I would love to have like:
1. All Dark - Sports
2. Lights On - Sports
3. All Dark - Netflix, PC, Sat, Etc.
4. Lights On - Etc. You get the idea.

like BoostM3's settings are horrendous on DirecTV and Netflix (built into TV), but I have a feeling if I connect my PC to it, it may shine and look great.
I get it, just was hoping I could find a great setting for ALL dark, as I love watching everything with lights off when possible, as I am not that comfortable with the deeper settings like:

Hue 1 Saturation 1 Brightness 1 Offset 1 Gain
Red Green Blue Cyan Magenta Yellow Red Green Blue Cyan Magenta Yellow Red Green Blue Cyan Magenta Yellow Red Green Blue Red Green Blue
I'm looking for a better spreadsheet too
If the majority of posts had that info it'd be in the sheet. I would also add firmware version if it was stated enough. While I know where you are coming from, I think the sheet works as a fine starting point

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrt2 View Post
So I just picked up the M65 C1 today. Coming from the Samsung UN607500 and so far I'm not blown away... Granted I haven't tried 4K content just yet but as far as color accuracy, blacks, and overall video detail and 'pop' I'm preferring my old set. My old set had an unfair advantage though, it was calibrated.

Sooooo..... it's time to calibrate. Are there some good posts in the thread on calibration settings for the M65? I've seen the 55 listed a few times but I can't seem to find the ones for the M65. Thanks!
Link is in my signature
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Sony XBR-##X900E Picture Settings Summary spreadsheet
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Sony XBR-65X900E | Vizio M65-C1 | Yamaha TSR-7790BL AVR | DirecTV HR54-700 Genie | DirecTV C61K-700 4K Genie Minis | Roku Streaming Stick+ | XBox One Elite | AppleTV Gen 3 | Panasonic Blu-ray
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post #11123 of 16412 Old 01-30-2016, 11:44 PM
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I just upgraded to a Pioneer SC-99 to take advantage of HDCP 2.2, switched to input 5 and noticed that any setting above 0 on reduce jutter now causes stuttering on 30fps content. I tried both Netflix and Amazon on my Roku 4 and it caused the same effect. I switched the my ATV4 and HBO Now and it did the same thing. Sometimes it would become a slideshow for a couple seconds at a time. If I switch it to 0 then it's fine. Anyone else notice this? I wonder what causes this behavior? I was ready to take back my receiver until I realized it was the TV.
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post #11124 of 16412 Old 01-31-2016, 02:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VBB View Post
It's perfectly normal to get different readings if you move the meter. Best to use a positioning pattern and just put the meter in the center spot.


Gamma will read higher than the settings on the M. By default, Vizio uses a BT.1886 curve. I recommend to fine-tune that when calibrating instead of leveling out a flat gamma. BT.1886 will give you the best black/shadow detail. I also use 2.2 at night and 2.1 during the day.


Firmware updates rarely change grayscale/CMS characteristics, so it should be fine to calibrate any time, really.
I understand it's normal, but it is a bit annoying. Do you think I should use a 1% image area? This will help me place the sensor closer to the real center of the screen. But I just want to mention again that all of the FALD options are disabled right now. Also, in case I want to enable this feature later, will I have to redo the calibration with it on and 100% background or do you think it should be ok after a calibration with it off?

HCFR seems to already be set to that by default:


I assume that one should calibrate the TV from time to time, especially when it's a new set.
Thanks.

One more unrelated thing, is there some kind of menu to see the "on hours" of the unit?
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post #11125 of 16412 Old 01-31-2016, 07:46 AM
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Previously, I mentioned that even after the 1.3 firmware update I was still seeing judder on my M60 while watching basketball & tennis with the signal coming through my H44 DirecTV box passing through my Denon 4520 AVR. I had set the Denon to pass a 4K signal to the M60. I did some experimenting and reset the Denon to pass a 1080p signal and the judder problem disappeared! I still have the Denon set to pass a 4K signal to my BluRay & Roku players; the M60 displays a 2160 signal and haven't noticed any problems. I have the option to upgrade the DirecTV box to a 4K unit and that will probably work fine sending a 4K signal to the M60. Just curious how other owners that pass a signal to their M series are handling the resolution setting.

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post #11126 of 16412 Old 01-31-2016, 08:25 AM
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I started my first meter based calibration of the M80C3 this weekend. As affirmed by others, brightness and contrast are best left at 50. I decided to focus on a very low ambient viewing condition, which is my primary situation. I turned off FALD, but activated Clear Action. I set backlight (unscientifically) to 67... a brightnesss level I like in a dark room. Gamma set to 2.2. I'm using the i1DisplayPro meter with HCRF for now. I ran the full monty measurements with default preferences.

Leaving the CMS alone, I headed straight to the the 11point wb settings in the color tuner. I spent about an hour tweaking, measuring and remeasuring. Pretty solid conformance to reference above 10% and below 90%. There's definitely instability in blue and red in the extreme ends of the spectrum.

That's what I've done so far and the results are remarkable. Flesh tones are awesome and black definition is much better in 3/4 and shadow tones (leaving less need for using black detail). I think those 2 things are the clearest reason to start here. I am finding much less need to use black detail for my cable source.

I haven't done anything else yet. Need to study more on correcting gamma, luminosity, color accuracy etc....

I spent a lot of time observing the impact of these settings with Clear Action on and off. I prefer to have Clear Action off during the day in in moderate ambient light conditions. The white balance settings still work very well for both blacks and skin tones. I adjust backlight down to 30-35 with Clear action off.

A great TV is getting better.
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Vizio 2016 P series FAQ, general info and Help
Sony Z9F 75, Vizio P75C1 UHD/HDR/DV, Pioneer Elite SC-95, Samsung UHD Bluray K8500, AppleTV 4K, CC Ultra
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post #11127 of 16412 Old 01-31-2016, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by RDHolmes View Post
I think you said this is a Mac Pro. If so, you might want to shut down, unplug for about 10 minutes, attached to the TV, plug in and restart.
Yes I have tried that a few times. I have also tried both DVI ports, different cables etc etc. I tried the Mac forums but after 200 views I haven't got any suggestions


The screen works just fine when I plug my Surface in via mini HDMI so I have come to the conclusion that its the old Mac. I can get the screen to work when its hooked up to the computer monitor in mirror mode but as mentioned before, it goes dark when I unplug the monitor


Looks like upgrading the TV is going to cost me more $$ as I will need to replace my computer...


Thanks for the suggestions
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post #11128 of 16412 Old 01-31-2016, 10:24 AM
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IF you have the "opinion" that the M Series up-scaling is garbage, then, YOU have not seen the typical GREAT picture most ALL of the VIZIO sets are capable of with an OTA source... Like it is said, GARBAGE IN - GARBAGE OUT... so there... :-)
"IF you have the "opinion" that the M Series up-scaling is garbage, then, YOU have not seen the typical GREAT picture most ALL of the VIZIO sets are capable of with an OTA source... Like it is said, GARBAGE IN - GARBAGE OUT... so there... :-)"

Yesterday I finally installed my VIZIO -M60 . We combined two 30 inch end tables for a platform mount. I used the OTA the over the air rf input that performs fantastic on our 47 inch VizioXLG and a 55 inch LG-ld 60 models. When I turned on the new Vizio M-60 the panel was way too light . Followed the directions and performed the scan using RF connection It scanned in 30 digital channels 4 less then the my older models did. My amplified antenna is in the attic. The default settings results were a blurred picture on SD and barely watchable HD local channels . I then reset the unit the firmware upgrade was installed. This time I tried the store settings and they are watchable on HD locals. If this Vizio M60 only receives HDMI and not the free locals it's going back to the store. The final result white panel and blurred picture . You cannot read any fine print. I also had the blinking issue every 30 seconds. When I tried Netflix they give the 4K upgrade but you cannot go back to the 7.99 rate if accepted.
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post #11129 of 16412 Old 01-31-2016, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by The Coolest View Post
I understand it's normal, but it is a bit annoying. Do you think I should use a 1% image area? This will help me place the sensor closer to the real center of the screen. But I just want to mention again that all of the FALD options are disabled right now. Also, in case I want to enable this feature later, will I have to redo the calibration with it on and 100% background or do you think it should be ok after a calibration with it off?

HCFR seems to already be set to that by default:


I assume that one should calibrate the TV from time to time, especially when it's a new set.
Thanks.

One more unrelated thing, is there some kind of menu to see the "on hours" of the unit?
If you calibrate with FALD off, then there is no need to use window patterns. You won't have to redo your calibration if you decide to enable it later on.


I'm pretty sure HCFR has a positioning pattern. You should not have to guess where center is. I'm not sure what your screenshot is referring to, but that is not where you set the 100% background. It's where you set color space and gamma. BT.1886 is default, if that's what you mean.


LCDs don't realy drift like plasmas or OLEDs, so there's really no reason to re-calibrate, unless something changes in firmware.


No way to check the hours on this TV. There's probably some secret service menu somewhere, though.

Henry

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post #11130 of 16412 Old 01-31-2016, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherryboy77 View Post
"IF you have the "opinion" that the M Series up-scaling is garbage, then, YOU have not seen the typical GREAT picture most ALL of the VIZIO sets are capable of with an OTA source... Like it is said, GARBAGE IN - GARBAGE OUT... so there... :-)"

Yesterday I finally installed my VIZIO -M60 . We combined two 30 inch end tables for a platform mount. I used the OTA the over the air rf input that performs fantastic on our 47 inch VizioXLG and a 55 inch LG-ld 60 models. When I turned on the new Vizio M-60 the panel was way too light . Followed the directions and performed the scan using RF connection It scanned in 30 digital channels 4 less then the my older models did. My amplified antenna is in the attic. The default settings results were a blurred picture on SD and barely watchable HD local channels . I then reset the unit the firmware upgrade was installed. This time I tried the store settings and they are watchable on HD locals. If this Vizio M60 only receives HDMI and not the free locals it's going back to the store. The final result white panel and blurred picture . You cannot read any fine print. I also had the blinking issue every 30 seconds. When I tried Netflix they give the 4K upgrade but you cannot go back to the 7.99 rate if accepted.
I watch OTA here in LA (170+ channels, most are useless, of course). The HD channels, especially the 1080i ones, look incredible. Definitely better than on my previous 1080p TV. When you say "blurred picture", do you mean everything is blurry or just motion? If it's the latter, try increasing Reduce Judder. And what do you mean by "white panel" and "too light"?
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Henry

LG OLED65C7P | VIZIO M70-C3 | Denon AVR-X3500H | Elac Uni-Fi | Elac Debut 2.0 SUB3030
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960 | LAV Filters | madVR | MPC-HC | Plex | X-Rite i1Display Pro | DisplayCAL | HCFR
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