Official 2015 Vizio 4K UHD M Series Thread - Page 480 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14371 of 16412 Old 06-12-2016, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ShadyCoh View Post
You should turn on all the options on the direct tv box and set it to not upscale. Let your TV do it or it will also try to upscale the 1080 to 4K and when you use 2 upscale devices you get a bad picture.
Just checked my D TV box and i have all display options checked (480p/720p/1080i/1080p) and also selected the Native option. I dont see the option to set it to not upscale unless its the native option. can you post some screen shots? Also my picture looks great on direct tv but yest Game of Thrones doesnt look the best. We watched the OJ special last night and some of the current shots of the Rose Bowl stadium looked really good.
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post #14372 of 16412 Old 06-12-2016, 01:15 PM
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ya native is what you want so it sends the signal out in the same state that the box gets it in.
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post #14373 of 16412 Old 06-12-2016, 01:40 PM
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Does this TV have the Fandango Now or M-GO app? I cant find it but supposedly we should have it?? tia
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post #14374 of 16412 Old 06-12-2016, 04:49 PM
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I have the Samsung UBD-K8500 4K UHD player hooked up to my 65m-C-1.Which HDMI should I have it hooked up to for optimal viewing of UHD Blu-ray Discs?Currently I have it hooked up to HDMI 2 which plays UHD bluray @2160p x24.
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post #14375 of 16412 Old 06-12-2016, 05:41 PM
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Only HDMI5 is capable of [email protected] So if you are going to stream anything like youtube and the like at 4K and need a higher refresh rate than 30Hz, you'll have to use HDMI5.
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Vizio M60-D1 | T95M with LibreELEC | Calibration + Settings
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post #14376 of 16412 Old 06-12-2016, 11:21 PM
 
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Originally Posted by wmarkw View Post
Just checked my D TV box and i have all display options checked (480p/720p/1080i/1080p) and also selected the Native option. I dont see the option to set it to not upscale unless its the native option. can you post some screen shots? Also my picture looks great on direct tv but yest Game of Thrones doesnt look the best. We watched the OJ special last night and some of the current shots of the Rose Bowl stadium looked really good.
Worth noting, that Game of Thrones just isn't a great looking show in some (esp. darker) scenes. At first, thought it was due to the local led dimming that was killing detail in dark areas. Then I compared some of these same scenes to the streaming version on my laptop. The same details were missing at full brightness on my laptop.
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post #14377 of 16412 Old 06-14-2016, 12:39 PM
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I'm looking to sell my 2015 Vizio M70-C3. It's just about a year old, works perfectly, no scratches, and all original box and packaging is included. What would be a fair asking price on Craigslist? Do you think it could fetch $1200?
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post #14378 of 16412 Old 06-15-2016, 09:50 PM
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Ok, so I've noticed this weird grayish patch on my m60 c3. Not noticeable during tv or movies but as soon as a scene with a lot of white or grey is present I can see it. What could this be? Any suggestions. Here's a pic
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post #14379 of 16412 Old 06-15-2016, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by subacabra View Post
Ok, so I've noticed this weird grayish patch on my m60 c3. Not noticeable during tv or movies but as soon as a scene with a lot of white or grey is present I can see it. What could this be? Any suggestions. Here's a pic
That's a local dimming zone that's too dim.

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post #14380 of 16412 Old 06-15-2016, 10:11 PM
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That's a local dimming zone that's too dim.
Thought it may be something like that. Anything I can do to remedy it?
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post #14381 of 16412 Old 06-16-2016, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by KCWolfPck View Post
I'm looking to sell my 2015 Vizio M70-C3. It's just about a year old, works perfectly, no scratches, and all original box and packaging is included. What would be a fair asking price on Craigslist? Do you think it could fetch $1200?
LOL looks like someone is looking to upgrade to a 2016 P-series; as far as your question goes, I'll say this--I paid $1648 for the exact same TV last November which would put my TV as being roughly 6+ months old, so I'd be a bit surprised if you can get your asking price for yours that is roughly twice as old as mine...but am wishing you luck in getting that price.

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post #14382 of 16412 Old 06-16-2016, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by toneman View Post
LOL looks like someone is looking to upgrade to a 2016 P-series; as far as your question goes, I'll say this--I paid $1648 for the exact same TV last November which would put my TV as being roughly 6+ months old, so I'd be a bit surprised if you can get your asking price for yours that is roughly twice as old as mine...but am wishing you luck in getting that price.
Actually, I purchased on October 22,2015 and it would include an extended warranty through October 22, 2018.
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post #14383 of 16412 Old 06-16-2016, 12:51 PM
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Considering that Costco is still trying to sell their remaining 70" for $1700 and 75" for $2500 I don't think it is too bad KC. Good luck.

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post #14384 of 16412 Old 06-17-2016, 09:14 AM
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Based on ya'll recommendation I bought a 50''(should have bought a 55'' but that is another story) way back in November or so. Anyways, I love my TV but am curious on everyone's take on HDR. How much am I/will I miss out on by not having HDR capabilities in the future? Thanks in advance!
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post #14385 of 16412 Old 06-17-2016, 09:55 AM
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Based on ya'll recommendation I bought a 50''(should have bought a 55'' but that is another story) way back in November or so. Anyways, I love my TV but am curious on everyone's take on HDR. How much am I/will I miss out on by not having HDR capabilities in the future? Thanks in advance!
Are you asking b/c you are thinking of upgrading to the P series (or some other HDR set)? If not, I suggest not contemplating how much you're missing and instead focus on what a great set our "old" M series is. Better to appreciate the greatness we have than minimize it by considering what we're lacking...

I say this b/c I am just a few days from the end of my 90 day return window for my M65 from Costco and I've been following both the new P and M series threads considering a possible return to upgrade. I've pretty much decided I'm very happy w/ what I have, though the recent lowering of the P65 to $1799 did give me pause. But since BB offered that sale price w/o having any in stock, that made it easier, though I wonder if that discount might have been due to the P coming to other retailers and they might have better prices than BB did during their exclusive deal. I went from thinking that those sets wouldn't be $800 better than what I have to wondering if they will be $600 better (I got my M65 for $1250). Even at $600 diff I don't think it's worth it given that for the foreseeable future, most of my watching will be 1080i from cable (I have no plans to get a UHD player anytime soon- unless my PS3 dies and the new PS4.5 is fully UHD compliant).

One of the things you're missing is some of the teething problems that go w/ bleeding edge, which the P series threads are full of. But the only way to know exactly what you're missing is to see one in action, both w/ UHD HDR and regular 1080P/i. Personally, I don't want to see that at this point. I saw a post in the P thread where an owner showed a UHD BR of Star Trek Into Darkness and decided to rewatch that for the 1st time on my new set. It was simply stunning and I found it hard to imagine how 4K, HDR and WCG could make it much better. I'm sure it'll be better, but what I saw was so gorgeous, why worry about better?

For me, I'm happy to have such a great set at a great value. I'm assured 5 years of good service since I spent $89 on the square Trade warranty and get an extra year from Costco. After that point, UHD should be well-established and the teething problems all resolved and then I'll be ready for a full UHD set.

But somebody w/ a lot more disposable income than me could easily see things differently.
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post #14386 of 16412 Old 06-17-2016, 10:39 AM
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How does the 2016 M series differ from the 2016 P

Other than the P having a tuner. Talking about 65+ sizes
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post #14387 of 16412 Old 06-17-2016, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by JimWinVA View Post
Are you asking b/c you are thinking of upgrading to the P series (or some other HDR set)? If not, I suggest not contemplating how much you're missing and instead focus on what a great set our "old" M series is. Better to appreciate the greatness we have than minimize it by considering what we're lacking...

I say this b/c I am just a few days from the end of my 90 day return window for my M65 from Costco and I've been following both the new P and M series threads considering a possible return to upgrade. I've pretty much decided I'm very happy w/ what I have, though the recent lowering of the P65 to $1799 did give me pause. But since BB offered that sale price w/o having any in stock, that made it easier, though I wonder if that discount might have been due to the P coming to other retailers and they might have better prices than BB did during their exclusive deal. I went from thinking that those sets wouldn't be $800 better than what I have to wondering if they will be $600 better (I got my M65 for $1250). Even at $600 diff I don't think it's worth it given that for the foreseeable future, most of my watching will be 1080i from cable (I have no plans to get a UHD player anytime soon- unless my PS3 dies and the new PS4.5 is fully UHD compliant).

One of the things you're missing is some of the teething problems that go w/ bleeding edge, which the P series threads are full of. But the only way to know exactly what you're missing is to see one in action, both w/ UHD HDR and regular 1080P/i. Personally, I don't want to see that at this point. I saw a post in the P thread where an owner showed a UHD BR of Star Trek Into Darkness and decided to rewatch that for the 1st time on my new set. It was simply stunning and I found it hard to imagine how 4K, HDR and WCG could make it much better. I'm sure it'll be better, but what I saw was so gorgeous, why worry about better?

For me, I'm happy to have such a great set at a great value. I'm assured 5 years of good service since I spent $89 on the square Trade warranty and get an extra year from Costco. After that point, UHD should be well-established and the teething problems all resolved and then I'll be ready for a full UHD set.

But somebody w/ a lot more disposable income than me could easily see things differently.
@JimWinVA

Thanks for the reply. I was considering upgrading but....the '15 M-Series is a pretty solid TV. No need to leap into HDR when I've got a 4K TV that isnt anywhere near a year old. I'll just have to be patient and see where HDR goes in the next couple of years.
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post #14388 of 16412 Old 06-17-2016, 10:58 AM
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@JimWinVA

Thanks for the reply. I was considering upgrading but....the '15 M-Series is a pretty solid TV. No need to leap into HDR when I've got a 4K TV that isnt anywhere near a year old. I'll just have to be patient and see where HDR goes in the next couple of years.
You're welcome. Personally, I'd say "pretty solid TV" is an understatement. Even w/o considering bang-for-buck, which is very high, I think these are very solid TV's. Not high-end, but solid mid-range TV's. And in a couple years, you'll not only be able to see where HDR goes, but also see where OLED goes price-wise and teething-wise (those bleeding edge sets are not w/o their own problems).

I have to say your logic is unassailable- seeing as how it agrees w/ mine.
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post #14389 of 16412 Old 06-17-2016, 11:11 AM
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How does the 2016 M series differ from the 2016 P

Other than the P having a tuner. Talking about 65+ sizes
The P doesn't have a tuner (which is easily and cheaply remedied regardless). The P is guaranteed to get HDR 10 capability, whereas the M is capable of getting and utilizing that upgrade (partially), but it has not been stated it will receive it. Dolby Vision may or may not be supported by UHD players and may or may not continue to be supported as heavily as HDR 10 w/ streaming. Given the format war between the 2 HDR standards, it would be nice to have both. The M doesn't have WCG (which in my mind is more significant than HDR) and also has 1/2 the FALD zones.

Personally, if I was choosing between the '16 M and P, I'd def go for the P. But if you don't need a new TV right now (I had to get one due to my LED-DLP dying), I'd wait a year for the '17 P or M (which might get WCG and HDR 10) for them to resolve some of the bleeding edge issues.
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post #14390 of 16412 Old 06-17-2016, 12:24 PM
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The P doesn't have a tuner (which is easily and cheaply remedied regardless). The P is guaranteed to get HDR 10 capability, whereas the M is capable of getting and utilizing that upgrade (partially), but it has not been stated it will receive it. Dolby Vision may or may not be supported by UHD players and may or may not continue to be supported as heavily as HDR 10 w/ streaming. Given the format war between the 2 HDR standards, it would be nice to have both. The M doesn't have WCG (which in my mind is more significant than HDR) and also has 1/2 the FALD zones.

Personally, if I was choosing between the '16 M and P, I'd def go for the P. But if you don't need a new TV right now (I had to get one due to my LED-DLP dying), I'd wait a year for the '17 P or M (which might get WCG and HDR 10) for them to resolve some of the bleeding edge issues.
Under the specs on the vizio site it says it has wide color Gamut on the 70"





Key Specs

  • Class Size70"
  • Screen Size (Diag.)69.5”
  • Panel TypeVA
  • Smart PlatformVIZIO SmartCast™ w/ Google Cast™ Built-in
  • High Dynamic Range Yes w/ Dolby Vision
  • Wide Color GamutYes, Ultra Color Spectrum™
  • ResolutionUltra HD - 3840x2160
  • UHD Upscale EngineSpatial Scaling Engine™
  • UHD Picture ProcessorVM50 Engine
  • Display ProcessorV8 Octa-Core Processor
  • Backlight TypeFull-Array LED
  • Local DimmingYes with Active LED Zones® x64
  • Clear Action™720
  • Built-in Wi-FiYes, 802.11ac Dual Band
  • UHD Codec SupportHEVC (H.265), VP9
  • Bluetooth
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post #14391 of 16412 Old 06-17-2016, 02:17 PM
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Under the specs on the vizio site it says it has wide color Gamut on the 70"
That is probably a typo.

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post #14392 of 16412 Old 06-18-2016, 11:39 AM
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I contacted support and they said it does not support it and the page is now corrected.


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That is probably a typo.
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post #14393 of 16412 Old 06-18-2016, 01:24 PM
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I just purchased an M50-C1 and I was looking for some calibration settings to use. I glanced at those at Rtings and Cnet and wondered if everyone here used those too. Is there another set floating around here that people like? I glanced through the first and last few pages and didn't see any.

I know that you can't get a perfect calibration from copying menus but it's a start.

I'm currently using the Cnet settings, except I have Active Led Zones turned off and Color Temperature set to Computer.
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post #14394 of 16412 Old 06-18-2016, 01:55 PM
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@chronomac
There's a list of different settings many of us use in my signature.

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post #14395 of 16412 Old 06-18-2016, 10:26 PM
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I just purchased an M50-C1 and I was looking for some calibration settings to use. I glanced at those at Rtings and Cnet and wondered if everyone here used those too. Is there another set floating around here that people like? I glanced through the first and last few pages and didn't see any.

I know that you can't get a perfect calibration from copying menus but it's a start.

I'm currently using the Cnet settings, except I have Active Led Zones turned off and Color Temperature set to Computer.
Here's the settings I found most useful as a starting point, from mpgxsvcd, who did much work on the M's before moving onto a P:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post39178938

We're all different, so it comes down to what you like and it seems you might prefer pop over accuracy, since you're using computer color, which he addresses in his suggestions.

But whatever you choose, don't turn off active zones, which defeats FALD, one of the biggest advantages of this set. Also, be forwarned that the CMS is broken and if you change anything in there, you run the risk of creating some problems.

Enjoy your great TV!
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post #14396 of 16412 Old 06-19-2016, 11:20 AM
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We're all different, so it comes down to what you like and it seems you might prefer pop over accuracy, since you're using computer color, which he addresses in his suggestions.

But whatever you choose, don't turn off active zones, which defeats FALD, one of the biggest advantages of this set. Also, be forwarned that the CMS is broken and if you change anything in there, you run the risk of creating some problems.

Enjoy your great TV!
Thank you for the settings and the advice. I've been tinkering with it a bunch and think I've settled on some settings I like. I've been using the Normal color temp. for Blu-ray and streaming and then Computer for my PC.

I do have a question about the Active LED Zones, though. When I activate that I seem to be losing information on-screen - is that normal? For instance, there's a scene in Fantastic Mr. Fox (the Criterion Blu-ray) where a bunch of characters are talking in a dark closet and if I turn on Actice LED Zones, part of the shelves more or less disappears into shadow. It doesn't seem to help me much.

Last edited by chronomac; 06-20-2016 at 10:01 AM.
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post #14397 of 16412 Old 06-19-2016, 04:10 PM
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Thank you for the settings and the advice. I've been tinkering with it a bunch and think I've settled on some settings I like. I've been using the Normal color temp. for Blu-ray and streaming and then Computer for my PC.

I do have a question about the Active LED Zones, though. When I active that I seem to be losing information on-screen - is that normal? For instance, there's a scene in Fantastic Mr. Fox (the Criterion Blu-ray) where a bunch of characters are talking in a dark closet and if I turn on Actice LED Zones, part of the shelves more or less disappears into shadow. It doesn't seem to help me much.
If you want more shadow detail, you can turn up the backlight and/or lower the gamma. Also, make sure you have auto brightness off and black detail on low.

Let us know if that does the trick; if it doesn't, something else must be wrong- FALD works great on these sets.
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post #14398 of 16412 Old 06-19-2016, 06:22 PM
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I personally find that in a well lit room, at my normal viewing brightness (backlight) of 145cd/m2 FALD tends to make some elements darker than I would like.
I usually only turn FALD on when I watch something in the dark. In a bright room the native contrast of the panel works great for me, but I measured my M55 to have a native contrast of over 6000:1, close to 7000:1 actually. Could be the reason why I find it completely acceptable in most scenarios with FALD off.

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post #14399 of 16412 Old 06-20-2016, 07:51 AM
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I just took back a (2016) LG 70" 6350 and got a (2015) Vizio m75 and couldn't be happier! Wow what a difference FALD makes... It's night and day better. I had been reading about them, but after setting it up and seeing it compared to the LG edge lit, theres no comparison. I was concerned about motion and upscaling 720p, but even watching the NBA finals looked really amazing on this set. Now I will try to tweek some settings, but out of the box I was so surprised.

Question? Why does it seem to do some "auto" picture adjusting? It seems like on a slow scene it will go from a kinda washed out setting to automatically add some contrast? Again, all my settings are factory and on "Calibrated" - thanks
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post #14400 of 16412 Old 06-20-2016, 10:06 AM
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Has anyone had this problem, or know of this problem with the Vizio M49-C1 These are flashing vertical lines that show up only on the right side of the screen. This issue just started about 2 weeks ago. Amy ideas?
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