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post #6181 of 10356 Old 01-14-2016, 02:31 PM
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Sound Bar with JU7100?

Is anyone using a sound bar with the JU7100? If so, which one are you using.
The reason I ask, is that I'm looking at the Denon HEOS Sound Bar. I heard it at the local Best Buy and really like the ability to tie into a multi room system.
The reason for my concern is that the sound bar is 3.23" high (without the rubber feet added) and the bottom of my display is right about 3.125" off the media console. I'm wondering if .10" or so that the sound bar sticks up over the display is noticeable and if so, is it bothersome??


Thanks!
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post #6182 of 10356 Old 01-14-2016, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Biohazr2d View Post
What panel do you have? Do you know anything on the US02? I want to try the calibration I saw on here earlier but I want to do it after I've watched the standard a few weeks.
I have the 65" and it came with an IH02 panel. Go for the calibration and if you don't like it, reset it. You can even try it on a different input and if you don't like it, go back to the original input.
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post #6183 of 10356 Old 01-14-2016, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post
Like he just said to me that any TV that isn't ultra HD premium is basically obsolete already, I'm so frustrated because no purchase feels like it's a good purchase from people I talk to, or what they say to me.
If you like the tv you bought then it was a good purchase. You bought it for you, not for other peeps.
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post #6184 of 10356 Old 01-15-2016, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mamiamjo View Post
Is anyone using a sound bar with the JU7100? If so, which one are you using.
The reason I ask, is that I'm looking at the Denon HEOS Sound Bar. I heard it at the local Best Buy and really like the ability to tie into a multi room system.
The reason for my concern is that the sound bar is 3.23" high (without the rubber feet added) and the bottom of my display is right about 3.125" off the media console. I'm wondering if .10" or so that the sound bar sticks up over the display is noticeable and if so, is it bothersome??


Thanks!
I have a Boston Acoustics TVEE Model 25 soundbar that works and sounds great, it's a few years older so it may not match up to what you are looking at. Being that close to the display would probably bug me.. Do you have the option of mounting the tv on the wall? I bought a glass top tv stand from walmart that was surprisingly very nice that included tv mount that rotates 80 degrees. At the bottom of the vertical rails that attached to the back of the tv I bought some closet organizer rails around 12"x1", sanded them down a little bit and painted them black, attached a few bolts to the lowest holes attached to the tv and angled the closet rails out to the ends of the soundbar to hold a few bolts that would hold the soundbar from the bolt holes on the backside of the soundbar. It looks like it is floating, works pretty slick!! The tv sits about 10 inches above the glass top and the soundbar is about 2 inches from below the tv. I could post a few pictures if you'd like.. Not sure if this helps but it was just fun to make something up myself to make it work the best way possible. And it looks cool.. Hope you figure your setup out. Enjoy the TV, it rocks along with ArchonX's Cal settings!!

Last edited by JC25; 01-15-2016 at 01:55 PM.
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post #6185 of 10356 Old 01-16-2016, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ArchonX View Post
First my settings had green push, now they have yellow push?

Let me clear up some misconceptions. The green push I found the issue and was fixed on my Cal-Day settings. For my Cal-Night settings, I will be fixing them this week, maybe tonight or tomorrow after work.

The yellow push is called Warm 2. If you come from Standard or Warm 1, Warm 2 WILL look yellow to your eyes. But give it a day or so and whites will go back to looking white instead of yellowish.

Warm 2 is more red, Warm 1, Standard, and Cool keep going up on blue. Our eyes are more sensitive to red and green ears than blue, that is why Warm 1 and Standard is still capable of looking appealing and "correct", though it is not.

I have said this before, when you calibrate you are going to film standards, meaning one of your goals is to have the color temperature at 6500K. Warm 2 on my set starts out measured at 6850k, which is why I start there. You always start at the setting that is closest to your goal. 6500K is close to natural daylight sun temperatures and all films are mastered for 6500K. This is why you want them to match.

How off are the other picture modes?

Warm 1: starts out on my set at measured 7600K, 1100K more than it should be.
Standard: starts out around 9000k and some change, 2500K more than it should be.
Cool: Over 10000k, never even used it or measured it but it should go up about the same increment.

Now on some other sets, this may not be the case, another mode might be closer to standard than Warm2. The advantages to 6500k are plenty and make them very ideal. You are matching film standards, it is better for your eyes, and your TV lasts longer because blue is not being overdriven. Just because our eyes are not sensitive to blue push does not mean it is a good thing to overdrive a color channel. You may notice more eye strain in the dark with Warm1 or Standard mode but even if not, it is straining your eyes more.

So give your eyes a day or so with Warm 2 and I am sure your whites will stop looking yellow.

What I said about panel differences I firmly stand by, common sense tells me I am correct or people with other panels would find my settings unusable. I never said there was no difference, but I did say they are close enough to each other and obviously this is a fact. It may not be 10/10 exact, but close enough to where it is still closer to correct than not putting in calibrated settings. I have tested my settings against Rtings, LCD TV buying guide, CNET, and others (published and user settings listed like Amazon reviews) and I always prefer mine (and not just because they are mine). If I liked CNET or RTINGS settings better I would re-calibrate.
Looking forward to your new settings for the night ones! Thanks
I do have a question that came up....did you find the CNET and RTINGS settings close to yours at all? That will indicate that using someone elses professionally calibrated settings is indeed a good option.

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post #6186 of 10356 Old 01-16-2016, 10:43 AM
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Un60ju7090

Was on BB website and saw "New" UN60JU7090 model listed. Looks like a slimmed down version of the JU7100. 60" is the only size listed. On the Samsung website it is on there now only in the 60". Doesn't show the ultra clear pro panel and says comes with the standard remote in the specs part.
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post #6187 of 10356 Old 01-16-2016, 11:50 AM
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Ya that's not ture for samsung 4k tvs. There is this thing called a OCB or look up sek-3500

it is like the the little ocb that comes with this tv but it has hard ware and software OS that imprives and upgrades the tv alotand more HDMI hook ups and stuff.

No other tv brand that I know has that. I don't know if this tv will get the next OCB SEK 4500.

but it should.
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post #6188 of 10356 Old 01-16-2016, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OliverArk View Post
Was on BB website and saw "New" UN60JU7090 model listed. Looks like a slimmed down version of the JU7100. 60" is the only size listed. On the Samsung website it is on there now only in the 60". Doesn't show the ultra clear pro panel and says comes with the standard remote in the specs part.
Thus being a 7090 model, not 7100..... Just as the 6500 model has less features.
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post #6189 of 10356 Old 01-17-2016, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by tampa8 View Post
Thus being a 7090 model, not 7100..... Just as the 6500 model has less features.
Right, but is it missing the features that make JU7100 a top performer?

I'm the the market for a new TV as my panel got a line defect and it's down to the JU7090 and the M60-C3 since they are in the same price point with the current sales.
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post #6190 of 10356 Old 01-17-2016, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by johaan444 View Post
Right, but is it missing the features that make JU7100 a top performer?

I'm the the market for a new TV as my panel got a line defect and it's down to the JU7090 and the M60-C3 since they are in the same price point with the current sales.
Yes it is missing several key items. Ultra Clear Panel, PurColor, Wide Color Enhancer, No Smart Remote also.

It is like a Black Friday stripped model, stay away in my opinion.

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post #6191 of 10356 Old 01-17-2016, 09:57 AM
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Hello guys,
Looks like if you are using this in PC mode with 4:4:4 then you are out of luck at using Archon's settings since you do not get all the options he shows, right?
I saw someone posting a trick to fool the system into showing the settings but if anyone is doing that, please DO a Chroma test and you will see it messes up the quality unfortunately. :/

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post #6192 of 10356 Old 01-17-2016, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Javaman12 View Post
While I certainly respect the time and effort that Archon put into his settings, they are not for everyone, in every situation. Posters have respectfully said that they needed to tweak this or that and as you said " I am not saying his calibration is perfect for ALL 7100's". As far as it being "any more visually appealing", I've got to think that a competent technician, who is ISF certified and using the proper equipment, will be worth the $300.
What do you think the ISF tech is going to do differently than what I am doing? The pluses of a ISF tech is they may have better equipment and they are working the calibration to your particular TV. Neither of these hurt, but anyone (including myself and yourself) can go and get a ISF certification. It can increase your understanding of the subject matter, but it sure as heck does not guarantee you are going to get a better calibration than me, Wildgator25, or anyone else with equipment. It sure does not guarantee they will automatically be great calibrators AND familiar with your particular TV. The last is extremely important and fundamental to getting the best of your particular TV.

It is like learning a language, learning how to cook, build a computer, or anything else. There are many ways to learn something and not limited by taking classes. I am the type I have to get my hands dirty or I will not be good at anything I learn. I could take classes, excel at the classes and pass with ease, but then I try to do what I learn and I suck at it the first couple of times.

So okay, you spend $300+ and a tech shows up at your door. Cool, he/she has nice equipment and get starts going to town on setting your TV. Here are possible issues you will encounter when he is done:

-He or she may have a preference which is far different than yours. You may find the picture rather dark or too bright. The may find the colors look muted to you now because though accurate, they may lack pop.

-You may find if they are not extremely familiar with your TV, they may skip things if they cannot figure it out (or consider things "good enough").

-You can take 10 calibrators, put them on the very same TV, and each one will set the TV differently.

In other words, there are many variables to them and you are paying $300 or more for results you may or may not like. My friend spent $400 on a calibration of his Plasma TV, the guy supposedly had a Jetti Spectrophotometer and claimed to be real familiar with his particular TV. Him, his wife, myself, and other friends who have seen his TV are not impressed at all with the tech's settings. They look dark and muted and he actually was running his with his own settings. Effectively, he wasted $400 and the tech did a bang up job.

So ISF Tech advantages:
-Possibly can do a better job if they have better equipment and knowledge of your TV.
-Are working on your particular TV, so can be more accurate for your particular TV.
-Some are very good and if you get lucky, you can get a person who can get your TV about 95%+ as good as it will get.

ISF Tech Disadvantages:
-Expensive
-One and done
-Risk involved (wasted $300+)
-A stranger in your home seeing all of your goodies (may be a concern for some)
-Inconsistent ISF tech quality...you might get a newbie who passed the courses and has equipment, but has never calibrated many TV sets and not many varieties of TVs.
-May set your TV too dark, too bright, or not anything how you would like it

Using my (or anyone else's settings) advantages:
-Does not cost you a dime. (Don't like it? Tweak it or use something else) 0 risk
-Tech support is completely free
-No one in your home and takes a few minutes to put settings in your TV.
-Can calibrate over again and improve the settings further
-Completely familiar with your panel and TV

Disadvantages of the average Joe's settings:
-May not be accurate 100%
-Maybe not as good of equipment so unable to tweak quite as far

But it is like audio equipment, construction equipment. So okay, you are new to wood cutting and you buy the best table saw in the world and it cuts within .0005 mm tolerance. Does this make you an automatic professional wood cutter? Or better than a person who has cut wood for 10 years on even cheap saws? Nope.

I completely disagree that my settings are "not for everybody". I have never heard anyone say they are worse than the factory settings. I do not have a $7000 colorimeter, but my i1DP3 was calibrated to one so should not be far behind one. I am willing to bet even the best calibrators in the world with the best equipment are simply not going to do much better than me on my own TV. So if they get 5-10% better results than me....you are not going to see it with your eyes. The software will let you know it's closer to perfect, but your eyes are very limited. If I was at your home, I may be able to dial in your settings a little further, but the difference would be so subtle your eyes might miss it unless you compare the old settings to new settings.

This is not at all a plug at ISF calibrators, some are amazing and I am sure their knowledge would be great to acquire. This is also not tooting my own horn, my settings are not perfect.

But...define perfect? There can be a lot of diminishing returns without knowing certain things about this. I hope this helps!
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Samsung 55" JU7100 calibrated picture settings:
Cal-Day Daylight: **Updated 12/22/2015**

Cal-Night/Dark:
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post #6193 of 10356 Old 01-17-2016, 06:04 PM
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Personally I would never pay for a calibration, to many people spending the time and research on it and being kind enough to share it with us. I've enjoyed all your calibrations ArchonX up until the most recent. I never experienced the green push from your last version, but I now have a yellow push on the current version. Easy fix, I went back to another version and will happily try out anything you produce in the future.

Calibrating seems like a hobby to me, like my marine aquarium, I would never pay to have someone come take care of it for me.


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post #6194 of 10356 Old 01-17-2016, 08:48 PM
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Had this TV for a while now and though I do like it a lot I am having a lot of issues that others here have experienced. I've never been able to get ARC to work with my Pioneer sc-1323 so I have to run optical for Netflix. Also film mode doesn't seem to work anymore... I dunno if it's just 3D movies or not.
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post #6195 of 10356 Old 01-17-2016, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SlaughterX View Post
Had this TV for a while now and though I do like it a lot I am having a lot of issues that others here have experienced. I've never been able to get ARC to work with my Pioneer sc-1323 so I have to run optical for Netflix. Also film mode doesn't seem to work anymore... I dunno if it's just 3D movies or not.
I had issues with ARC with some previous firmware versions. But with 1440, it's been rock solid for me. I have a Yamaha AVR that works fine with ARC.

Dan
Samsung JU7100 4K TV, Yamaha RX-V583, Nvidia Shield, a number of Roku players and TVs, Windows 10 media server with Serviio and Plex. Other players and TVs as well.
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post #6196 of 10356 Old 01-17-2016, 10:00 PM
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Almost bought a js8500, but I just can't love the chrome looking bezel. The bezel on the 7100 just looks so much better. 8500 was $2899 and the 7100 is $2688. Any other Canadians bought a 7100? Can I ask what you paid? For $200 difference am I making a mistake lol!?
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post #6197 of 10356 Old 01-18-2016, 07:24 AM
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I'm sure this has been asked before but does anyone know if the ju7100 OS will be updated to when the 2016's hit the market?
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post #6198 of 10356 Old 01-18-2016, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArchonX View Post

This is not at all a plug at ISF calibrators, some are amazing and I am sure their knowledge would be great to acquire. This is also not tooting my own horn, my settings are not perfect.
@Javaman12

Another advantage that ArchonX has over many ISF calibrators, in this situation, is the amount of time he has spent with this particular TV. The biggest thing you have to understand is that ArchonX is aiming to hit a standard, one set by ISF and the Video Industry. As he stated, an ISF certified calibrator is going (hopefully) to aim for that same standard. You may find, like ArchonX said, when the ISF calibrator is finished, you don't like what he did.

Now, that leaves you with 2 choices...... standard or preference. Standard cost you $300+, if you went with the ISF calibrator. Preference would have cost you nothing but a little reading on this forum. Sure, the ISF calibrator can sit with you and ask you what you think and adjust sliders until you are visually satisfied..... but you do that yourself. Put the TV in Movie mode and slide away!
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post #6199 of 10356 Old 01-18-2016, 07:59 AM
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..Another advantage that ArchonX has over many ISF calibrators, in this situation, is the amount of time he has spent with this particular TV....
Exactly. I for one am thrilled there are users like ArchonX around, who are willing to put in such time and effort, and have a willingness to share results and tweak them over time, with such positive feedback from fellow users. This is win-win for all of us, and I can't wait for my set to arrive to try them out. I am also thrilled there is a forum like this where we can all raise our issues and concerns and seek out real solutions.

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Den: 60" 4k Samsung 60JU7100 (MH01 panel); Denon X1000 AVR; Sony BR; Cisco 9865 HD PVR; HTPC; Harmony 650
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post #6200 of 10356 Old 01-18-2016, 09:46 AM
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Accessing the Service Menu

For those accessing the JU7100 Service menu (presumably using ml2517's instructions - copied here ):

1) what physical remote are you using (given that the one that comes with the 7100 wont suffice as it has no number buttons) ? If you have a specific Amazon or ebay link, that would be great.

2) what Android/IOS/Windows app are you using? Based on some google searches, found these, but I cant test them yet without the unit.

IOS:
-Samsung Smart View
Android:
- Samsung Smart View
- Samsung TV and Remote
- Remote for Samsung TV
Windows:
-Remote Control for Samsung TV
When I get a good list going I'll add a section to my 4k ready reference page (link below).

___________________________________________
Den: 60" 4k Samsung 60JU7100 (MH01 panel); Denon X1000 AVR; Sony BR; Cisco 9865 HD PVR; HTPC; Harmony 650
Basement: 102" Carada screen; 720p Sanyo PLVZ4 projector; Panasonic BR; HK/Klipsch 5.1; SVS sub; Cisco 4642 HD; HTPC

JU7100 Ready Reference

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post #6201 of 10356 Old 01-18-2016, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mediaman09 View Post
For those accessing the JU7100 Service menu (presumably using ml2517's instructions - copied here ):

1) what physical remote are you using (given that the one that comes with the 7100 wont suffice as it has no number buttons) ? If you have a specific Amazon or ebay link, that would be great.
A couple of us from this thread have picked up one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0121LNLOM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o02_s00[/url].

That's been great for me. Works flawlessly, lights up, and got me into the service menu (so I could add the night/day settings with ArchonX's calibration). It also has much quicker access to things like the display mode so I can flip from Night to Standard or whatever. I put the old remote into a drawer and I doubt I'll have much use for it moving forward.
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post #6202 of 10356 Old 01-18-2016, 01:52 PM
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ETA, Thanks. I now see it was discussed about 200 posts back, here. That model, Samsung BN59-01223A LED , is a bit of a challenge to get up in Canada at a reasonable cost, but I will keep en eye out for it, For now, I should be fine with one of universal remotes, or a suitable smartphone/tablet app.

___________________________________________
Den: 60" 4k Samsung 60JU7100 (MH01 panel); Denon X1000 AVR; Sony BR; Cisco 9865 HD PVR; HTPC; Harmony 650
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post #6203 of 10356 Old 01-18-2016, 07:07 PM
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ANY remote with numbers that can pair to the TV gets you into the menu. I simply used my DISH network remote. I now have a full size Samsung remote from Ebay that cost $12 and of course that works also. I tried an app for my Note 4 and that worked first try also.
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post #6204 of 10356 Old 01-18-2016, 07:27 PM
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My post is not in response to Archon X, or his settings. I am using his settings and did not get my TV calibrated as I was going to. BUT

If you think getting your TV calibrated is a waste or some kind of hit and miss thing that would be about as wrong as it could be. Could you get a bad calibrator? Sure. Could you get a bad mechanic, software professional, investment banker, of course. But when you want your car to run the best it can be, most of us go to a mechanic. If you want your TV to look it's best you get a calibrator.

What has happened here is we have ArchonX and the end result is those using his settings are in effect using a calibrator. But not all models or makes has someone in the forums who put the kind of time and effort, with professional equipment to get the settings. I would not hesitate to get my TV calibrated as I have in the past, if it were not for ArchonX settings. The picture is tremendous.

I could not agree more with the idea that given the AchronX settings I could get a calibrator, but under the best scenario, would I actually see the difference even if some settings were a little more accurate for my TV? Not likely would I see a difference. But that does not translate into generally having your TV professionally calibrated is a waste, but in this instance, probably.
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Last edited by tampa8; 01-18-2016 at 07:33 PM.
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post #6205 of 10356 Old 01-19-2016, 05:56 AM
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My post is not in response to Archon X, or his settings. I am using his settings and did not get my TV calibrated as I was going to. BUT

If you think getting your TV calibrated is a waste or some kind of hit and miss thing that would be about as wrong as it could be. Could you get a bad calibrator? Sure. Could you get a bad mechanic, software professional, investment banker, of course. But when you want your car to run the best it can be, most of us go to a mechanic. If you want your TV to look it's best you get a calibrator.

What has happened here is we have ArchonX and the end result is those using his settings are in effect using a calibrator. But not all models or makes has someone in the forums who put the kind of time and effort, with professional equipment to get the settings. I would not hesitate to get my TV calibrated as I have in the past, if it were not for ArchonX settings. The picture is tremendous.

I could not agree more with the idea that given the AchronX settings I could get a calibrator, but under the best scenario, would I actually see the difference even if some settings were a little more accurate for my TV? Not likely would I see a difference. But that does not translate into generally having your TV professionally calibrated is a waste, but in this instance, probably.
IN NO WAY IS THE BELOW INTENDED TO BE A FLAME TO ANYONE!

I respect what you say above, but here's an alternate opinion to some of your suggestions:

Depending on your skill level, you may not need a mechanic to fix your car. Most cars are expected to do as they should from the moment you purchase, however some do not. If it has a major breakdown, chances are highly likely you would take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic. Also, in the case of a performance vehicle, many owners learn to do maintenance/upgrades themselves so that they can get the most performance out of that vehicle.

This leads me to the analogy of ArchonX. His TV wasn't broken, but he felt like it needed some work/maintenance. Because he is competent, he studied video calibration thoroughly and he was able to adjust his TV to the best performance he feels he can get. Sure, he spent more money than he would have if he had just went with the calibrator, but the knowledge that you gain from doing the work yourself is leaps and bounds over what someone could tell you in a 3-4 hour span. The end result, since we all have the same model but different panels, is we were all treated to what a professional would do without expectation of payment.

Now, that being said. I reiterate this statement time and time again...... It may not matter what numbers I, ArchonX, you, your friend, etc. suggests you use for your TV.... at the end of the day, you have to be satisfied with the picture. If that means you need to change from what the colorimeter reads as standard to satisfy your eyes, then change away! There is a right way to do things, sure, but if you are not satisfied with another's suggestion but you accept it..... that's just plain wrong!

Getting a professional to calibrate your TV is not a waste. It all boils down to how much money you are willing to spend and what you are looking to achieve when the calibrator is finished. If you are ready to accept his/her word that the TV is "perfect" to standard and you can't get any better or through working together you get a picture that you are satisfied with, you can't go wrong either way. My only suggestion is to make sure, if you are going to spend the money, to get someone trusted in the field. I have read too many stories of low end "calibrators" doing little more than putting the TV in Movie Mode, adjusting Contrast, Brightness, Backlight, and Sharpness and calling it a day. THAT IS NOT CALIBRATION! THAT IS CALLED TUNING/TWEAKING! At that point, you'd be better off buying a "Calibration" DVD, such as Disney WOW. From the video that I posted a few pages back, it seriously disappointed me that the two professionals would spend so much time explaining what calibration does, but still do not try to perfect the TV when the capability and comprehension is there to do so. Maybe after the video went off, they tried to get as close to perfect as possible, I don't know. Maybe it was a freebie for Leo and he didn't pay for the $300+ service, I don't know.
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post #6206 of 10356 Old 01-19-2016, 07:12 AM
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For my other sets, we typically have more than one working remote (and we keep one at each end of the couch for convenience).

For the JU7100, suppose I have both the standard remote and the BN59-01223A LE as my two working remotes.

If I understand correctly, remotes for the JU7100 also need to be "paired". Can I independently pair each remote such that either will work at any time? I am assuming I can pair as many devices as I want ( eg remotes, phones, tablets etc.), but wanted to confirm.

___________________________________________
Den: 60" 4k Samsung 60JU7100 (MH01 panel); Denon X1000 AVR; Sony BR; Cisco 9865 HD PVR; HTPC; Harmony 650
Basement: 102" Carada screen; 720p Sanyo PLVZ4 projector; Panasonic BR; HK/Klipsch 5.1; SVS sub; Cisco 4642 HD; HTPC

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post #6207 of 10356 Old 01-19-2016, 08:40 AM
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For my other sets, we typically have more than one working remote (and we keep one at each end of the couch for convenience).

For the JU7100, suppose I have both the standard remote and the BN59-01223A LE as my two working remotes.

If I understand correctly, remotes for the JU7100 also need to be "paired". Can I independently pair each remote such that either will work at any time? I am assuming I can pair as many devices as I want ( eg remotes, phones, tablets etc.), but wanted to confirm.
Unless I'm missing something I never had to pair the extra remote that I got from amazon -- it just worked. So does the original remote (which afaik *is* paired) but I have little use for that one now.
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post #6208 of 10356 Old 01-19-2016, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by mediaman09 View Post
For my other sets, we typically have more than one working remote (and we keep one at each end of the couch for convenience).

For the JU7100, suppose I have both the standard remote and the BN59-01223A LE as my two working remotes.

If I understand correctly, remotes for the JU7100 also need to be "paired". Can I independently pair each remote such that either will work at any time? I am assuming I can pair as many devices as I want ( eg remotes, phones, tablets etc.), but wanted to confirm.
It will depend on if the remote uses WiFi/Bluetooth to connect, or if it's simply IR control. There's no pairing with IR. The remote that comes with the TV uses both: IR for power on/off and BT (I think) for the remainder. I can have the remote under cover for all functions except power.

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Samsung JU7100 4K TV, Yamaha RX-V583, Nvidia Shield, a number of Roku players and TVs, Windows 10 media server with Serviio and Plex. Other players and TVs as well.
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post #6209 of 10356 Old 01-19-2016, 09:50 AM
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It will depend on if the remote uses WiFi/Bluetooth to connect, or if it's simply IR control. There's no pairing with IR. The remote that comes with the TV uses both: IR for power on/off and BT (I think) for the remainder. I can have the remote under cover for all functions except power.
Ya, power is definitely IR. Before mounting the TV I had rested it down on a rug and the power sensor was somewhat buried in the rug's (short) pile. I wanted to at least see it power on before I mounted it and my heart skipped a beat when it refused to power on. It wasn't until I lifted that corner to expose the sensor that the set would turn on.

I'm using an older Harmony 810 to control everything and it's working great. On the opposite end, it appears the Menu/123 button on the Samsung remote is BT only. I have not found an IR equivalent for that command.

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post #6210 of 10356 Old 01-19-2016, 09:56 AM
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As just a small update to my SSG-3570 (USB) 3D glasses issue where I was getting frequent "3D glasses are connected" messages...

It appears the glasses have some sort of motion sensitivity to them. If I just move them after being inactive, I'll get the 3D glasses connected message on the TV. I don't even have to turn them on. I'm now thinking that when I was seeing the message pop-up all the time, it may have been my sub causing enough of a vibration in the cabinet to bring the glasses back to life.

I assume these glasses turn themselves off... correct? The light on the sides of the glasses doesn't stay on so I can't tell if they're actually on or off.

Samsung UN60JU7100 | Yamaha RX-A2000 | Kodi | 18TB Synology Diskstation | PS4 | PS3 | Xbox One | Xbox 360 | Wii U
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