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post #8761 of 10380 Old 10-03-2016, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atc98092 View Post
the JS mod makes the TV think it's a JS, not a JU model. This enables HDR for Amazon only, not Netflix. One or two new options appear in the video menu. It's debatable if there's an actual, measurable improvement in the video. However, because it's not an actual JS model, there is a limit to how well it can display HDR material. The TV will recognize HDR from outside sources (4K Blu Ray player for example) even without the mod, so it's not mandatory. With a handfull of new Roku players coming out shortly, there will be more HDR compatible players on the market, and the JS Mod becomes less necessary.
Thank you for this detailed response.
I'll just avoid it, then. :-)
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post #8762 of 10380 Old 10-03-2016, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Mats Sturtewagen View Post
Have anyone good settings with Xbox One S HDR ?

Its to dark here and not bright and vivid

For UHD Blu-rays and streaming, make sure you set your X-Box One S to output at 30-bits per pixel (10-bit) and set the Color Space to Standard RGB (NOT Full RGB).

For the proper TV settings, see >> THIS POST <<


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post #8763 of 10380 Old 10-04-2016, 04:42 PM
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After spending the weekend playing Forza on my standard Xbox One I took the plunge and upgrade to the Xbox One S so I could play it in HDR-ish. Y'kno... not full HDR but what this set is capable of. Haha! Initial impressions of HDR in Forza and Netflix didn't blow my mind. I'm not getting the saturation in color I'd expected and the picture feels a bit dimmer then I'd like. Hearing others make the same comments has me wondering if this is an Xbox thing. When viewing HDR content from my USB stick it was more vibrant.

I feel like I've still got some tweaking to get it all looking right. I've been running through the settings people have been mentioning here and have had some luck. Just need to spend more time with it. I didn't pick up a UHD BluRay either but I'm hoping to soon. Stay tuned! And in the meantime please post if you've found any great solutions to getting your Xbox One S setups looking good!
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post #8764 of 10380 Old 10-04-2016, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
Nice picture of the JU7100 here:

The 2015 Samsung UNJU7100 is one of a handful of TVs that have received an official upgrade to handle HDR.

https://www.cnet.com/how-to/can-i-upgrade-my-tv-to-hdr/

Re posted: Check your HDR here. First 2 downloads.

http://demo-uhd3d.com/categorie.php?cat=demouhd
Trying these when I get home. Thanks.
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post #8765 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 05:13 AM
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Thanks to @wildgator25 and of course @p5browne





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post #8766 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by L30Z3N View Post
Thanks to @wildgator25 and of course @p5browne





Make sure to change HDMI BLACK LEVEL to Low before you start calibrating. I notice it is on Normal now.
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post #8767 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by wildgator25 View Post
Make sure to change HDMI BLACK LEVEL to Low before you start calibrating. I notice it is on Normal now.
I use USB hard disk to use the patterns for calibration (my library is on USB OR NAS)... on there it's not possible to change it...

And for the XBOX one I use HDMI "Low" for Gaming mode calibration and out of game mode CAL-NIGHT HDMI "Low" for movies Blurays...

P.S: Still waiting your help when you can of course (profile i1DP3 correction matrix HCFR)

Thanks again @wildgator25
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post #8768 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L30Z3N View Post
I use USB hard disk to use the patterns for calibration (my library is on USB OR NAS)... on there it's not possible to change it...

And for the XBOX one I use HDMI "Low" for Gaming mode calibration and out of game mode CAL-NIGHT HDMI "Low" for movies Blurays...

P.S: Still waiting your help when you can of course (profile i1DP3 correction matrix HCFR)

Thanks again @wildgator25
Sorry, I forgot to upload that last night. Busy with keeping up with the hurricane here in South Carolina.

I should be able to do that once I get home this evening.

As to calibrating.... I normally calibrate in Movie mode with my PS4 on Limited, Deep Color Off and the Samsung on Low (HDMI cable to my AVR). I then switch to a different HDMI input and switch the HDMI cable (out to the One Connect) on the PS4 and enable Game Mode, change HDMI Black Level to Normal, change PS4 to Full, Deep Color On, HDR On, and input the same settings that I had from my calibration in Movie mode (minus the 10 point of course). Allowing the PS4 and Samsung to display the full RGB range looks better for the video games, in my opinion.

If you calibrate with your Samsung in Normal (Full RGB range) then you are not calibrating correctly. Not saying you are doing that, but in case you are. You are displaying patterns that are standardized with the Limited Range on a panel outputting Full range. When you watch normal video (encoded with the Limited Range), then you will either have crushed blacks or washed out blacks.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...mited-rgb.html

The above post will give the short and sweet answer.
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post #8769 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 10:07 AM
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So I spent my entire evening with the Xbox One S, constantly fiddling with the settings. Haha! Here are my thoughts...

FORZA HDR: At first this was underwhelming but after checking out King Richard's settings and reading a few other forums regarding tweaking things in game I found a pretty good look. I kicked up the Dynamic Contrast to high and kicked the Gamma up a notch (sometimes 2) and found that did the trick. In game I set the brightness to about 35 and the HDR brightness up just enough until the logo faded completely. During daytime scenes the colors were vibrant but the HDR effect seemed way more impressive during contrasty or dark scenes like night time or sunset/sunrise. It literally felt like I was driving a car at night. Which is both impressive visually but also not always great for gameplay. Haha. It was sometimes tough to see what I was doing or where I was going. In these moments I'd kick the brightness up a bit but at the cost of the cool, high contrast effect. Overall I do think it's an improvement. I think I'm perceiving it at least.

I say "I think" because of this... I ran another not so scientific test near the end of the night. I started wondering (after going back and forth with Forza tweaks all night) if the HDR was to thank for my more appealing lighting/colors or if it was just all the settings tweaks I was making (increased backlight/contrast, dynamic contrast med/high, etc.). So I tried a couple more things...

On the Xbox you can tick HDR on and off in the settings. Which I found to be really helpful in seeing the benefits. On Netflix I pulled up Marco Polo and it looked really nice. But my jaw wasn't dropping on the floor or anything. Then I went to the settings and turned HDR off and watched the same content again. It was then clear that HDR color information was getting lost. The colors weren't nearly as saturated or vibrant as they were when viewing with HDR. This was enough for me to think, "Yea, I guess this really does work." It was impressive enough even if I wasn't getting the full HDR 10 effect. The picture looked lighter and more washed out without the HDR on.

So then I tried something else. On the Xbox One S I loaded up the first episode of season 2 of Daredevil on Netflix as it has HDR. I watched the first 5 minutes or so. Looked great, colors vibrant, bright lights and dark darks. I was very happy with the image. Then I turned the Xbox One S off and went to my Samsung powered Netflix app in the Smart Hub. I adjusted my settings to "match" what I'd been using as my "HDR settings" (increased backlight/contrast, dynamic contrast med/high, etc.). Watched the first 5 minutes again in the Smarthub without HDR but the image quality was very close to what I was seeing on the One S with HDR on. Bright lights, dark shadows, vibrant colors. Not washed out at all. Actually I was seeing more detail in the shadows here then I was when watching in HDR. The settings there seem to be crushing the blacks a bit more. Maybe the HDR effect on this TV is a placebo?! lol

With that I ended my evening of tweaking settings and went to bed. A little disheartened and wondering if I was really perceiving HDR-ish or just basic adjusted TV settings. lol I'm a professional graphic artist and I have a strong eye for visuals. But I am just eyeballing these things so perhaps it's subjective a bit. It's a little maddening. I'm sure I'll be stuck in this "fiddling with settings" phase for a week or two now until I finally rest somewhere. I find that the longer I own this TV the more I find I'm increasing the contrast and backlighting as well as going back and forth with turning on the Dynamic Contrast simple because I like how it looks and then later turning it off because the internet tells me I shouldn't be using it. Haha! Oh, TV settings... you make me crazy.

A few other things that are annoying with the Xbox One S and HDR...

1. When exiting HDR content the TV holds onto the settings. So when I exit Forza my or Marco Polo the brightness is cranked through the roof. It's really annoying to have to keep tweaking these settings depending on what content I'm viewing. Changing sources seems to fix it or rebooting the console.

2. Now that my backlight is cranked up during HDR I'm really noticing the light bleed/clouding on my TV. When the backlight was lower it didn't bother me much but now in a nighttime scene in Forza I can see those static splotches driving me crazy. Is there anyway to help get rid of these? I remember seeing a You Tube video of a guy scrubbing them out with a microfiber cloth.

Anyway... would love to hear other's input. I really do think this TV is making me crazy. lol I love it but I want it all setup right! Haha! Thanks for the help. You guys have been a great resource.
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post #8770 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rynozebz View Post

With that I ended my evening of tweaking settings and went to bed. A little disheartened and wondering if I was really perceiving HDR-ish or just basic adjusted TV settings. lol I'm a professional graphic artist and I have a strong eye for visuals. But I am just eyeballing these things so perhaps it's subjective a bit. It's a little maddening. I'm sure I'll be stuck in this "fiddling with settings" phase for a week or two now until I finally rest somewhere. I find that the longer I own this TV the more I find I'm increasing the contrast and backlighting as well as going back and forth with turning on the Dynamic Contrast simple because I like how it looks and then later turning it off because the internet tells me I shouldn't be using it. Haha! Oh, TV settings... you make me crazy.
And this is the reason why I can't justify paying someone to calibrate my television(s).

You, albeit for different reasons, have entered the territory of "reference versus preference". No matter what settings that would be suggested or how many calibrations you (or a professional) perform, you will find that they are great for some material and need adjustment (bad even) for others.

I match colors for a living, which is very similar to your skills as a graphic artist. Whereas you probably use RGB or CMYK values to achieve color and tone, I use individual dyes and pigments. Therefore, I can totally understand your attention to visual detail. Unfortunately, we are always chasing technology and we have to realize that although expensive (relatively speaking), our television was middle of the line for 2015. Now, 2017 models are coming out and more and more technology is being put into the source material and panels to produce better visuals. At some point, you have to throw your hands up and say that it's the best that you can do.

That being said, I am still highly impressed with my 7100. My Non-JS Mod and JS Mod calibrations seem to work quite well with most all sources I view. I only have access (Non-JS Mod) to HDR via USB and those look pretty good. Maybe next month when the PS4 Pro launches, I will have some of the same headaches as you!
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post #8771 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by wildgator25 View Post
Sorry, I forgot to upload that last night. Busy with keeping up with the hurricane here in South Carolina.

I should be able to do that once I get home this evening.

As to calibrating.... I normally calibrate in Movie mode with my PS4 on Limited, Deep Color Off and the Samsung on Low (HDMI cable to my AVR). I then switch to a different HDMI input and switch the HDMI cable (out to the One Connect) on the PS4 and enable Game Mode, change HDMI Black Level to Normal, change PS4 to Full, Deep Color On, HDR On, and input the same settings that I had from my calibration in Movie mode (minus the 10 point of course). Allowing the PS4 and Samsung to display the full RGB range looks better for the video games, in my opinion.

If you calibrate with your Samsung in Normal (Full RGB range) then you are not calibrating correctly. Not saying you are doing that, but in case you are. You are displaying patterns that are standardized with the Limited Range on a panel outputting Full range. When you watch normal video (encoded with the Limited Range), then you will either have crushed blacks or washed out blacks.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...mited-rgb.html

The above post will give the short and sweet answer.
So you mean with my calibration are in a HDMI Normal (Full range)??

I use my Hard drive or USB PEN to display all patterns during the calibration... on there of course is not possible to switch HDMI Normal or Low...

Then I star to setup black level "Brightness" (@t 45 = 16 bar black and 17 a bit clear up) then contrast with white clip in my case under USB calibration white clipping have more bars on clipping... so I use contrast to 100 and I have not decoloration and other issues under movie mode or calnight calday... but contrast 100 under game mode or standard mode have changed colors during my previous calibrations...

So that's it I just use HDMI low under Xbox one (not S) Game and Movie and without full range RGB for me works better otherwise I can't get successfully black eyes testing video output and that's I think I lose blacks,... maybe I'm just wrong...


Thanks @wildgator25

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post #8772 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by L30Z3N View Post
So you mean with my calibration are in a HDMI Normal (Full range)??

I use my Hard drive or USB PEN to display all patterns during the calibration... on there of course is not possible to switch HDMI Normal or Low...

Then I star to setup black level "Brightness" (@t 45 = 16 bar black and 17 a bit clear up) then contrast with white clip in my case under USB calibration white clipping have more bars on clipping... so I use contrast to 100 and I have not decoloration and other issues under movie mode or calnight calday... but contrast 100 under game mode or standard mode have changed colors during my previous calibrations...

So that's it I just use HDMI low under Xbox one (not S) Game and Movie and without full range RGB for me works better otherwise I can't get successfully black eyes testing video output and that's I think I lose blacks,... maybe I'm just wrong...


Thanks @Wild gatr25
I use Ted's Lightspace CMS Calibration BluRay to calibrate. I don't know for sure if USB will default to the Low range automatically or not. If you can make the HDMI Black Level selectable with the Xbox, then why not make all of your HDMI inputs on Low? That would rule out crossing the RGB range.
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post #8773 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 02:58 PM
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Here is the link for the calibration matrix.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hyiqcuvf4a...15.16.thc?dl=0

I may be confused about your USB. Are you using the USB on the Xbox One and then to your Samsung? Or are you using USB to the One Connect Mini?

Either way, you still need to find a way to change the HDMI Black Level to Limited or Auto on the Samsung. I may be confused but I thought the Xbox One could trigger the HDMI Black Level selection on the Samsung?
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post #8774 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by wildgator25 View Post
I use Ted's Lightspace CMS Calibration BluRay to calibrate. I don't know for sure if USB will default to the Low range automatically or not. If you can make the HDMI Black Level selectable with the Xbox, then why not make all of your HDMI inputs on Low? That would rule out crossing the RGB range.
OK, I got it... So you suggest to turn "low" HDMI black level not just on one input but in all HDMI inputs?... switching in and out into all inputs

I also don't really know if the USB port has Full-range RGB or limited but I can release my self when I changed it in my XboxOne HDMI connection port 1 with HDMI Black level to "Low" or "Auto" blacks work good with Brightness set it on 45 and the black bar 16 keep down and black... and when I change HDMI Black level to "Normal" Black bar 16 and other less bars became visible clipping and for get it black again I have to decrease Brightness until 33...

That's why I guess USB port reading HCFRcolor field folder the black clipping work like the HDMI Black level to "low" and the Brightness 45 I obtain the black bar 16 totally black 17 and the other start to clip...

But anyways I will try your recommendations in all my HDMI ports turning all of them into "Low" value...

Sorry for the long and confuse explanation @wildgator25 and really many thanks

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post #8775 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by L30Z3N View Post
OK, I got it... So you suggest to turn "low" HDMI black level not just on one input but in all HDMI inputs?... switching in and out into all inputs

I also don't really know if the USB port has Full-range RGB or limited but I can release my self when I changed it in my XboxOne HDMI connection port 1 with HDMI Black level to "Low" or "Auto" blacks work good with Brightness set it on 45 and the black bar 16 keep down and black... and when I change HDMI Black level to "Normal" Black bar 16 and other less bars became visible clipping and for get it black again I have to decrease Brightness until 33...

That's why I guess USB port reading HCFRcolor field folder the black clipping work like the HDMI Black level to "low" and the Brightness 45 I obtain the black bar 16 totally black 17 and the other start to clip...

But anyways I will try your recommendations in all my HDMI ports turning all of them into "Low" value...

Sorry for the long and confuse explanation @wildgator25 and really many thanks

It's only necessary to change to Low on the inputs that you have HDMI cables going into for video, movies, etc. If you want to use the Xbox One for gaming only, you could try my suggestion to use the Full range and Normal after you finish calibration. You may not notice a difference though.

If you use a PC on your input, then that input should be Normal.
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post #8776 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 03:32 PM
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I use Ted's Lightspace CMS Calibration BluRay to calibrate. I don't know for sure if USB will default to the Low range automatically or not. If you can make the HDMI Black Level selectable with the Xbox, then why not make all of your HDMI inputs on Low? That would rule out crossing the RGB range.
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Originally Posted by wildgator25 View Post
Here is the link for the calibration matrix.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hyiqcuvf4a...15.16.thc?dl=0

I may be confused about your USB. Are you using the USB on the Xbox One and then to your Samsung? Or are you using USB to the One Connect Mini?

Either way, you still need to find a way to change the HDMI Black Level to Limited or Auto on the Samsung. I may be confused but I thought the Xbox One could trigger the HDMI Black Level selection on the Samsung?
No, I use the USB 3.0 port behind Tv to read my test patterns clips folders AVS field HCFR... because I use that port and also the same NAS or DNLA Connection for watch movies etc...

Then for Xbox one Calibration I switch off the USB PEN from the TV USB 3.0... and then I use the same USB PEN with the HCFR field patterns on it into USB Xbox connection... on it yes the XboxOne HDMI connected into HDMI Port 1 on "one connection mini"... on it the setup black level is se the to "Low"

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Originally Posted by L30Z3N View Post
No, I use the USB 3.0 port behind Tv to read my test patterns clips folders AVS field HCFR... because I use that port and also the same NAS or DNLA Connection for watch movies etc...

Then for Xbox one Calibration I switch off the USB PEN from the TV USB 3.0... and then I use the same USB PEN with the HCFR field patterns on it into USB Xbox connection... on it yes the XboxOne HDMI connected into HDMI Port 1 on "one connection mini"... on it the setup black level is se the to "Low"
Low on the Xbox One or Samsung or both?
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Here is the link for the calibration matrix.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hyiqcuvf4a...15.16.thc?dl=0
THANK YOU so much

Ok For use it I need to have exactly the same i1DP3 version
That's right? Or it's possible to use it into all of i1DP3 ?

Thank you for your help...
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THANK YOU so much

Ok For use it I need to have exactly the same i1DP3 version
That's right? Or it's possible to use it into all of i1DP3 ?

Thank you for your help...
I don't know about the version. You could ask in the HCFR forum. Or, you could try it and see....
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Originally Posted by wildgator25 View Post
Low on the Xbox One or Samsung or both?
Low into Samsung HDMI Black level... and on Xbox one I have set it the RGB (I don't remember well now I'm in my work) limited normal TV... isn't in FULL RGB...

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post #8781 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by L30Z3N View Post
Low into Samsung HDMI Black level... and on Xbox one I have set it the RGB (I don't remember well now I'm in my work) limited normal TV... isn't in FULL RGB...
Ok, that is right.
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post #8782 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by wildgator25 View Post
I don't know about the version. You could ask in the HCFR forum. Or, you could try it and see....
Ok Thanks... I think the version of the i1PD3 is in the weight balance cable ... it said something obout A1 - or A2 or B1 or B2 I think I don't remember either

In about 20"min. I will turn back home and I will tell you my version...

But of course I'm really excited to try your correction matrix Thanks again @wildgator25

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post #8783 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 04:32 PM
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@wildgator25 ok I just arrived home and check my i1DP3 version... it say Rev B - 02

Now I will try your correction matrix

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post #8784 of 10380 Old 10-05-2016, 08:06 PM
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Hi all,

I've decided to revamp my TV settings and looking for some advice. My only calibration equipment is a Bluray of Disney's WoW I can run on my PS4, even that is bothersome. I'm more looking at the copy-paste settings approach. From memory, the TV is setup as per the Rtings.com settings. I'm not sure if they're out of date.

I plan on using the settings @wildgator25 provides as a base for all inputs, however they will each need tweaking. I have the 75" version and the TS-01 panel. Do I start with a forced firmware upgrade via USB or is it little difference and I should use what I have? Second, are the service menu changes worth doing or is my TV likely to be entirely different and see no benefit from that.

All that aside, the inputs I have are as follows and I would appreciate any tweaks that would help.

1. TV - Used primarily for the native Netflix app. Mostly 1080p streaming, sometimes 4k.

2. HDM1 - Chromecast - Used primarily for YouTube videos. 1080p.

3. HDMI 2 - Not used.

4. HDMI 3 - Chromebox running PLEX - Used for movies. 1080p.

5. HDMI 4 - Used for PS4 and Cable (Sports).
- PS4 is 1080p and must be on Game mode. Tried without it and input lag makes games unplayable. Doesn't look great but is there much that can be done?. I plan on getting a PS4 pro on release.
- Cable box Sport HD channels are 1080/50i and suffer from stutter which I can't fix on Game mode. Should I sacrifice the input lag and switch this to HDMI2 and apply Automotionplus? Any other suggestions for fast-paced sport viewing?

Thanks in advance, i'm sure i'll have more questions.

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post #8785 of 10380 Old 10-06-2016, 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by kain0rer View Post
Hi all,

I've decided to revamp my TV settings and looking for some advice. My only calibration equipment is a Bluray of Disney's WoW I can run on my PS4, even that is bothersome. I'm more looking at the copy-paste settings approach. From memory, the TV is setup as per the Rtings.com settings. I'm not sure if they're out of date.

I plan on using the settings @wildgator25 provides as a base for all inputs, however they will each need tweaking. I have the 75" version and the TS-01 panel. Do I start with a forced firmware upgrade via USB or is it little difference and I should use what I have? Second, are the service menu changes worth doing or is my TV likely to be entirely different and see no benefit from that.

All that aside, the inputs I have are as follows and I would appreciate any tweaks that would help.

1. TV - Used primarily for the native Netflix app. Mostly 1080p streaming, sometimes 4k. TRY CALIBRATION 4

2. HDM1 - Chromecast - Used primarily for YouTube videos. 1080p. TRY CALIBRATION 4

3. HDMI 2 - Not used. USE CABLE HERE, AUTOMOTION PLUS =CLEAR, TRY CALIBRATION 4

4. HDMI 3 - Chromebox running PLEX - Used for movies. 1080p. TRY CALIBRATION 4

5. HDMI 4 - Used for PS4 and Cable (Sports). REMOVE CABLE BOX, LEAVE PS4. GAME MODE/HDMI BLACK LEVEL=NORMAL, PS4 RGB RANGE=FULL, TRY CALIBRATION 4 MINUS 10 POINT WHITE BALANCE
- PS4 is 1080p and must be on Game mode. Tried without it and input lag makes games unplayable. Doesn't look great but is there much that can be done?. I plan on getting a PS4 pro on release.
- Cable box Sport HD channels are 1080/50i and suffer from stutter which I can't fix on Game mode. Should I sacrifice the input lag and switch this to HDMI2 and apply Automotionplus? Any other suggestions for fast-paced sport viewing?

Thanks in advance, i'm sure i'll have more questions.
See my advice in RED

The firmware version should not be much of an issue for you.

The Disney WOW disk is not a calibration disk. You can tweak the basic settings by eye and that's about it.

I believe you will be satisfied with my Calibration 4 as we have the same panel, TS01. You can lower the Backlight for your room if your room is dark.
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post #8786 of 10380 Old 10-06-2016, 05:18 AM
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@kain0rer Hi... I also suggest do not copy the 2 point and 10 point white balance and the color space leave it alone "Auto" and the white balance by default... if you read on Rtings.com settings they said the same thing those settings are very different by panel even if the same model... You need a colorimeter and specific software for calibrate your set... for the rest, you can use the preset setting from other guys...

My settings for example are very different to anyone on web










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post #8787 of 10380 Old 10-06-2016, 05:57 AM
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Hmm, so should I make the service menu adjustments to white balance and gain as per @wildgator25 before starting my calibration or not @L30Z3N

If so, can it be done with the harmony smart home control? That's all I really have available.

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post #8788 of 10380 Old 10-06-2016, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by kain0rer View Post
Hmm, so should I make the service menu adjustments to white balance and gain as per @wildgator25 before starting my calibration or not @L30Z3N

If so, can it be done with the harmony smart home control? That's all I really have available.
How to set the SM MBs:

All 2, 10 Point and CMS at Factory default. (Plus Brightness and Contrast have been optimized. Remember to write these values down!)
Adjust 2 Point to spec. Now, taking these RGB Offset and Gains values, +/- the values in the SM WBs. Reset all the 2 Point to Zeros.
Now you're next 2 Point scan should be very close to 0 0 0 0 0 0. There MAY be some variations of upwards to +/- 3, but no more.

Note: Entering the SM resets the Movie Mode. (Samsung fixed this issue on my SEK-3500 + HU9000 combo, but NOT on the JU7100.)
After leaving the SM, allow LEDs to cool down for 10 minutes before doing any further calibrations. Helps if you go into the SM at 30%, versus 100% background pattern. (Restore your B & C values you wrote down.)

Example: Your 2 Point Red Offset calibration comes to -10. SM WB Red Offset is 128. 128 - 10 now puts SM WB Red Offset to 118.
Remember to reset your 2 Point values to zero when SM WBs have been adjusted.

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post #8789 of 10380 Old 10-06-2016, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by kain0rer View Post
Hmm, so should I make the service menu adjustments to white balance and gain as per @wildgator25 before starting my calibration or not @L30Z3N

If so, can it be done with the harmony smart home control? That's all I really have available.
If you don't want to adjust the service menu, then drop the 2 Point Offsets by 14 on R, G, and B. Raise the B Gain by 9. Should be the same difference.

Correction: Should be the same difference if your default Balance is the same as mine. Either way, try it and see what happens is about all you can do.
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Last edited by wildgator25; 10-06-2016 at 06:44 AM.
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post #8790 of 10380 Old 10-06-2016, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildgator25 View Post
If you don't want to adjust the service menu, then drop the 2 Point Offsets by 14 on R, G, and B. Raise the B Gain by 9. Should be the same difference.

Correction: Should be the same difference if your default Balance is the same as mine. Either way, try it and see what happens is about all you can do.
Sorry guys... but @kain0rer said he haven't colorimeter+software calibration... if so I don't suggest to touch all the withe balance 2 and 10 point neither into SM...

My white balance was very differents compared to @wildgator25 or @p5browne or from YouTube and all webs page I found it...

Until you will not buy a colorimetrer (X-Rite i1Display Pro 3 for example) you will not be able to calibrate exactly your withe balances and color spaces...



@wildgator25
I tried to read my calibration with your correction matrix and the differences was not so far about the generic calibration without profile correction matrix...
So I decide to use your correction matrix and make a new calibration the only difference it was in the withe balance. The RGB was all 10 steps with a dE 1.6/1.7 about the generic and the color temperature with your correction matrix show me that with my generic calibration it was at 6.000 Kelvin... so now I was calibrating the preset Movie with your correction and I'm testing now watching some movies... i think your correction matrix it's much more precise about the generic profile without profile... More accurate I guess...

It will be nice to know exactly the Rev version of your i1DP3 just for know and maybe ask someone if is better to use it or not...

I'm very grateful for all your help!

Thanks....



Leo
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