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post #9241 of 10356 Old 12-02-2016, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
This setting optimizes processing of HDMI UHD/4K signals up to 60P (Hz/fps) 4:4:4 10-bit (or even 12-bit)
t
I am confused with this. I thought it was not possible to get 4:4:4 AND 10bit at the same via HDMI. At least that has been my case with my Sony X800D where the only way to get 10bit is to go to 4:2:0 or so.

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post #9242 of 10356 Old 12-02-2016, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Luis Gabriel Gerena View Post
t
I am confused with this. I thought it was not possible to get 4:4:4 AND 10bit at the same via HDMI. At least that has been my case with my Sony X800D where the only way to get 10bit is to go to 4:2:0 or so.

It's up to 60P (Hz/fps) 4:4:4 10-bit. (As in a maximum of...)

I'm not sure about the JU7100, but with the JS Series TVs, I believe some people are able to get that with the input set to PC mode.

Also, I believe the Menu for the Samsung K8500 UHD Blu-ray player is 60P. The UHD discs are 10-bit and the output is YCbCr 4:4:4.


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post #9243 of 10356 Old 12-02-2016, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
It's up to 60P (Hz/fps) 4:4:4 10-bit. (As in a maximum of...)

I'm not sure about the JU7100, but with the JS Series TVs, I believe some people are able to get that with the input set to PC mode.

Also, I believe the Menu for the Samsung K8500 UHD Blu-ray player is 60P. The UHD discs are 10-bit and the output is YCbCr 4:4:4.


Richard
At least from what I have read, HDMI 2.0 can currently only do either [email protected] 4:4:4 8bit or [email protected] 4:2:0 10bit. My personal tests with two TVs so far validate that information.

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post #9244 of 10356 Old 12-02-2016, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Ronald Still View Post
Alright, reporting back. Looks better... I have included (Dynamic contrast: HIGH) to your settings. I finished uncharted 4 in HDR and it does look good. I'm reading everywhere that HDR is supposed to give you more realistic colors and take away the surreal pop in colors? And some other people are saying ,no, its supposed to be more vibrant (I don't know which one is correct).

I did notice the image was less vibrant in HDR but it wasn't washed out anymore once I bumped up dynamic contrast to HIGH. When I turned HDR off through the game the colors were wayyyyy too vibrant. Also, my blacks are BLACK now, when the local dimming zones are active in certain areas of the screen!

I wish I had someone here to look at my TV and say "yeah, your HDR is on correctly"
Ok, you are really on to something with the Dynamic Contrast. I agree Dynamic Contrast on High is the way to go with Uncharted 4. I also bumped the in-game Brightness to 10. This is much improved over playing without HDR turned on.

I have also changed Color Space to Auto. It looks better than Native. I will fiddle a bit more and if this is consistent across multiple HDR enabled games, I will amend my settings.
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post #9245 of 10356 Old 12-03-2016, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis Gabriel Gerena View Post
At least from what I have read, HDMI 2.0 can currently only do either [email protected] 4:4:4 8bit or [email protected] 4:2:0 10bit. My personal tests with two TVs so far validate that information.

Yes, you are correct.

(Maybe HDMI 2.1 will be able to do it no problem.)

Perhaps I should change my previous post to read:

"This setting optimizes processing of HDMI UHD/4K signals up to 8-bit 50/60fps 4:4:4, or up to 10-bit (or 12-bit) 50/60fps 4:2:2 or up to 10-bit (or 12-bit) 24/30fps 4:4:4."



Richard

Last edited by King Richard; 12-03-2016 at 03:13 PM.
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post #9246 of 10356 Old 12-03-2016, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
The "metadata" that's included with the HDR10 signal is what causes your TV settings to change. This will happen with the "HDMI UHD Color" ON or OFF.



However, that said, you will NOT get 10-bit Color Depth with it OFF.



For more on this setting, see the "Spoiler!" below:



Spoiler!




Richard


Ah, makes perfect sense. Thank you, sir.



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post #9247 of 10356 Old 12-03-2016, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
Yes, you are correct.

(Maybe the upcoming HDMI 2.1 will be able to do it no problem.)

Perhaps I should change my previous post to read:

"This setting optimizes processing of HDMI UHD/4K signals up to 8-bit 50/60fps 4:4:4, or up to 10-bit (or 12-bit) 50/60fps 4:2:2 or up to 10-bit (or 12-bit) 24/30fps 4:4:4."



Richard
Yep that post sure is accurate now
I was surprised of this limitation but at least finding out about it was better than driving myself crazy trying to "fix" something that had no fix right now LOL
At the end, I am selling my JU7100 and keeping my Sony X800D 43" now so I will be out of this club :/ I wanted to test the KU6300 but not having the same wide gamut performance of the Sony I feel would hurt it since I am using it a lot for Photo editing.
Thanks amigo!
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post #9248 of 10356 Old 12-03-2016, 11:30 AM
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CalDay and CalNight

I have a UN75JU7100 coming and I have a question on the picture modes CalDay and CalNight.
I understand you have to go into the service menu to activate them. But once activated and calibrated, does the TV switch between them automatically based on the amount of light in the room or time of day?

Or are they just another group of settings you can switch the picture mode to?

Thanks for clearing this up.
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post #9249 of 10356 Old 12-03-2016, 12:56 PM
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They do not switch automatically. They are just available to set up differently than what you have in say Movie mode
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post #9250 of 10356 Old 12-03-2016, 02:54 PM
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My 75JU7100 was finally delivered today after I snagged it at the EPP pricing 12 days ago. Unfortunately the right half of the screen is totally messed up, with it being both extremely dark in all sources and also with dark horizontal lines running to the middle.

I submitted a repair request to the online Samsung support. Hope it's a loose connection or chip issue that they can send a service person in to fix in person, because it'd be a pain to pack it up and set up a replacement.
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post #9251 of 10356 Old 12-03-2016, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by sur4k View Post
My 75JU7100 was finally delivered today after I snagged it at the EPP pricing 12 days ago. Unfortunately the right half of the screen is totally messed up, with it being both extremely dark in all sources and also with dark horizontal lines running to the middle.

I submitted a repair request to the online Samsung support. Hope it's a loose connection or chip issue that they can send a service person in to fix in person, because it'd be a pain to pack it up and set up a replacement.
Is there no return window?

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post #9252 of 10356 Old 12-03-2016, 04:31 PM
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Reports that I've read indicate "no stock" left and all you can get is a refund...but I just want a working 75" unit that I only had to spend 1,800 on.

Mine should be delivered Tuesday...fingers crossed.

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post #9253 of 10356 Old 12-03-2016, 04:40 PM
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Can someone tell me the width of the mounting points on the 75"? Need to make sure I have an adequate mount, thanks.

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post #9254 of 10356 Old 12-03-2016, 05:05 PM
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Reports that I've read indicate "no stock" left and all you can get is a refund...but I just want a working 75" unit that I only had to spend 1,800 on.
I checked Samsung.com and they had it available to add to cart, plus Samsung was still manufacturing them through October (mfg date on mine was 10/31/16), so return/rebuy should still be an option. But I'd rather just have this unit repaired, because I don't want to deal with arranging pickup and waiting several more weeks, all while hoping the next one isn't damaged.
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post #9255 of 10356 Old 12-03-2016, 07:51 PM
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Quick question: do you need the mod to get Netflix in hdr from another device? I just got a Roku ultimate and Amazon HDR plays the way it would if I used the tv app, the Netflix app has a little HDR tag next to some stuff that is HDR10, but the screen settings don't all change when watching any of them like the Amazon shows do.
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post #9256 of 10356 Old 12-03-2016, 10:42 PM
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I have a question, I've been messing with the picture settings and the problem I have the picture look kind of dull, the color is there but it kind of look washed out and the whites are kind of dim, I turn up the white balance and tried a couple settings but I can't get the colors to pop.I look at a couple of post but is there something in the service menu I can change to help me out
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post #9257 of 10356 Old 12-04-2016, 12:20 AM
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I have a question, I've been messing with the picture settings and the problem I have the picture look kind of dull, the color is there but it kind of look washed out and the whites are kind of dim, I turn up the white balance and tried a couple settings but I can't get the colors to pop.I look at a couple of post but is there something in the service menu I can change to help me out

White Balance

Unless you are professionally calibrating your TV, you should leave these adjustments alone. These values cannot be accurately adjusted "by eye". Even the best trained eye cannot determine if the values are near 6500K as our eyes cannot accurately detect differences in the luminance of bright images such as white.

The reality is, unless you are using a color measuring meter and software, there is really no way for you to objectively know if those values are actually improving the accuracy of the overall picture, or if they are in fact making it look worse. Again, a meter must be used as our eyes are a horrible tool for measuring luminance and colors.


That said, I would reset your "Picture Settings" back to their "default" values, and then you can go through my >> Picture Settings Guide << to help you adjust your settings the way YOU want them. (It was written primarily with the JS Series in mind, but will still apply to your TV model.)

NOTE: I do not recommend simply "copying" someone else’s settings as every TV (even the same model), every pair of eyes, and every viewing environment will be different. You can always use someone else's shared settings as a starting point if you want, however, understand that those settings won't look exactly the same on your TV and, in some cases, might actually make your picture look worse. (For "real world" examples of this, see >this post< by professional calibrator "Chad B" and this article: Sharing Calibration Settings)

If you want, you can always use @wildgator25 's calibration settings as your starting point. And then you can always tweak those settings to your tastes.


Richard
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Last edited by King Richard; 12-04-2016 at 12:25 AM.
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post #9258 of 10356 Old 12-04-2016, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by demonscars View Post
Quick question: do you need the mod to get Netflix in hdr from another device? I just got a Roku ultimate and Amazon HDR plays the way it would if I used the tv app, the Netflix app has a little HDR tag next to some stuff that is HDR10, but the screen settings don't all change when watching any of them like the Amazon shows do.
You do not need the mod in order to get HDR through the Roku. I picked up the Premiere+ in order to get HDR from Netflix as well. I can confirm that Daredevil season 1 and Marco Polo are in HDR, so give those a try.
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post #9259 of 10356 Old 12-04-2016, 06:27 AM
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Remember: Retail displays are set on Dynamic Mode, and shorten the life of the LEDs because of it.
So, DON'T try to make you set at home look like what you see at Retailers!

The idea is to have your set look Natural. Go outside and look around you, Colors DON'T pop! (AND, CAN'T be adjusted! Mother Nature does that.)
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post #9260 of 10356 Old 12-04-2016, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by BlunderbussAVS View Post
Have you tried Final Fantasy XV on the JU7100 by any chance? There seemed to be some white compression going on during a loading screen that included some clouds, but I wasn't sure if that meant my TV had some incorrect settings, or if the loading screen was just using a poor image. That game (I am playing it on a PS4) also seems very sensitive to the sharpness setting...I think I tweaked mine to ~8 for it.
Hi, with my 60JU7100 it's all the sky in FF15 that is oh so ugly... and don't get it, I used the setup mentioned on this thread for the calibration, but my HDR is just not working, I don't what I did wrong, but when I look at the blue sky in FF15, I kinda see all the layers of different blue, some sort of lines, that's just not good :S
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post #9261 of 10356 Old 12-04-2016, 02:12 PM
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Hi, with my 60JU7100 it's all the sky in FF15 that is oh so ugly... and don't get it, I used the setup mentioned on this thread for the calibration, but my HDR is just not working, I don't what I did wrong, but when I look at the blue sky in FF15, I kinda see all the layers of different blue, some sort of lines, that's just not good :S
Well, once I put the Resolution to 2160p - YUV420, the image is way more beautiful... weird or what ??
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post #9262 of 10356 Old 12-05-2016, 09:07 AM
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I recently picked up a 65" JU7100, trying to determine the best picture settings but for some reason each time I turn the TV off the settings revert back to the defaults. Is there something I need to specifically do in order to get the picture settings to hold? Additionally, is there a way to have the TV load the SmartHub when I switch it on? At the moment it always starts up with the antenna connection, since I don't have an antenna connected it's mildly annoying having the fuzz while I swap inputs.

I do not have the remote for the TV so not sure if that is going to impact making and storing any of the changes, for now just using either the joystick on the back of the TV or the Samsung Smart View app.

Thanks.
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post #9263 of 10356 Old 12-05-2016, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by abcdefghi View Post
I recently picked up a 65" JU7100, trying to determine the best picture settings but for some reason each time I turn the TV off the settings revert back to the defaults. Is there something I need to specifically do in order to get the picture settings to hold? Additionally, is there a way to have the TV load the SmartHub when I switch it on? At the moment it always starts up with the antenna connection, since I don't have an antenna connected it's mildly annoying having the fuzz while I swap inputs.

I do not have the remote for the TV so not sure if that is going to impact making and storing any of the changes, for now just using either the joystick on the back of the TV or the Samsung Smart View app.

Thanks.
It's in Store Mode, and will revert all settings back after 5 minutes.
Any Samsung TV remote will work. Set to Home Mode.
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post #9264 of 10356 Old 12-05-2016, 11:51 AM
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Thank you! Funny thing is I had been scrolling through various menus but not quite got all the way to the store mode setting. Also good to know I can use any Samsung remote, pretty sure I have 2 from older sets sitting around.

And yep.... grabbed the remote from my HL61A750 and it works perfectly.
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post #9265 of 10356 Old 12-05-2016, 07:48 PM
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What is the best way to handle switching between wildgator25's separate settings for HDR movies vs HDR games? I recently got an Xbox One S and am wondering how I can optimize the video settings for watching 4K Blu Ray movies or playing games.

I currently run the Xbox Toslink to my receiver and HDMI directly to the JU7100 input 2. Rather than manually changing all of the settings each time I switch from a movie to a game, do you think it would work if I were to purchase a splitter like this one to run a second HDMI to the JU7100's input 3? Theoretically this would allow me to select one input for gaming and one for watching movies, each input having independent video settings. Or is there a better way to accomplish this?
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post #9266 of 10356 Old 12-05-2016, 10:30 PM
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The only thing I switch is dynamic contrast on/off. I'm using warm2 for normal gaming now to, just give it a little more backlight.

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post #9267 of 10356 Old 12-06-2016, 04:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Evader View Post
What is the best way to handle switching between wildgator25's separate settings for HDR movies vs HDR games? I recently got an Xbox One S and am wondering how I can optimize the video settings for watching 4K Blu Ray movies or playing games.

I currently run the Xbox Toslink to my receiver and HDMI directly to the JU7100 input 2. Rather than manually changing all of the settings each time I switch from a movie to a game, do you think it would work if I were to purchase a splitter like this one to run a second HDMI to the JU7100's input 3? Theoretically this would allow me to select one input for gaming and one for watching movies, each input having independent video settings. Or is there a better way to accomplish this?
I do something similar for PS4 Pro Movie viewing and PS4 Pro Gaming. That way I can get the best sound and video for Blurays and get the best graphics for Video Games without having to change settings all the time. All I have to do on my setup is swap a cable connection.... easy peasy! My AVR has dual HDMI outputs and when I get off my lazy I am going to see if I can just run 2 cables out to the One Connect Mini and stop having to worry about HDMI switching.

Quote:
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The only thing I switch is dynamic contrast on/off. I'm using warm2 for normal gaming now to, just give it a little more backlight.

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I have amended my HDR gaming settings thanks to the suggestion by @Ronald Still . I still very much prefer Standard for video gaming as Warm2 just dulls everything too much.
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post #9268 of 10356 Old 12-06-2016, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Evader View Post
What is the best way to handle switching between wildgator25's separate settings for HDR movies vs HDR games? I recently got an Xbox One S and am wondering how I can optimize the video settings for watching 4K Blu Ray movies or playing games.

I currently run the Xbox Toslink to my receiver and HDMI directly to the JU7100 input 2. Rather than manually changing all of the settings each time I switch from a movie to a game, do you think it would work if I were to purchase a splitter like this one to run a second HDMI to the JU7100's input 3? Theoretically this would allow me to select one input for gaming and one for watching movies, each input having independent video settings. Or is there a better way to accomplish this?
Another option is to use the Cal Day and Cal Night settings and use one for each. This way there's no additional switch in the video path. In theory the switch is transparent to the video signal, but real world can always intrude on theory
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post #9269 of 10356 Old 12-06-2016, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by wildgator25 View Post
I do something similar for PS4 Pro Movie viewing and PS4 Pro Gaming. That way I can get the best sound and video for Blurays and get the best graphics for Video Games without having to change settings all the time. All I have to do on my setup is swap a cable connection.... easy peasy! My AVR has dual HDMI outputs and when I get off my lazy I am going to see if I can just run 2 cables out to the One Connect Mini and stop having to worry about HDMI switching.



I have amended my HDR gaming settings thanks to the suggestion by @Ronald Still . I still very much prefer Standard for video gaming as Warm2 just dulls everything too much.
I play destiny on warm 2 and its beautiful. I have the 1470 update, before it was dull.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G930F met Tapatalk
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post #9270 of 10356 Old 12-06-2016, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by atc98092 View Post
Another option is to use the Cal Day and Cal Night settings and use one for each. This way there's no additional switch in the video path. In theory the switch is transparent to the video signal, but real world can always intrude on theory
Will work except if you want to enable Game Mode.
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