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post #9331 of 10380 Old 12-14-2016, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by nad0104 View Post
This is for people who use their TV as a PC monitor on windows 10, other version`s of window`s may work also.
Mine is a 50inJU7100.
Normally when you are in PC mode some of the picture adjustments are grayed out, and the only two options are standard and enertain,

For this to work you must have RGB set to full in nvidia control panel, your TV at it`s native resolution 3840x2160, and picture size>fit to screen is set to off also HDMI UHD Color set to on. And every time you install a new nvidia driver you must apply the tweak.

What I found out is that if you go in to windows adjust resolution and change the recommended setting of 3840x2160 to 4096x2160 and then back to 3840x2160 the TV will still think it is in 4096x2160 when in all actuality it is 3840x2160 and scaling right, then you will have FULL control of your picture settings when you are in PC mode, Dynamic, Standard, natural, movie, day cal and night cal, and all other picture settings will work as they should.
This tweak works great for every day use, because you have access to all your picture settings for full calibrations. The tweak is safe and takes seconds. I am using a GTX 970.
I remember something similar to this a while ago but I also remember finding a flaw with that process...gonna try it again and report back. Thanks!!

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post #9332 of 10380 Old 12-14-2016, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Luis Gabriel Gerena View Post
I remember something similar to this a while ago but I also remember finding a flaw with that process...gonna try it again and report back. Thanks!!
Your welcome, let me know how it turns out, it works great for me.
There is a flaw thought, when in a game the tv settings go back to standard and enertain, when out of the game the tv goes back to normal.
I play the Crysis series. I also use my tv as a PC monitor 95% of the time.

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Last edited by nad0104; 12-14-2016 at 06:32 PM.
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post #9333 of 10380 Old 12-15-2016, 01:20 PM
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Hey guys, new poster here.

I bought the JU7100 around April, and so far so good. A couple months ago I also upgraded to an Xbox One S so I could take advantage of HDR gaming (we're big gamers at my house). Got the Xbox set up correctly with green check marks across the board. Loaded up Gears of War 4 and....I was disappointed. The HDR just seems like it's making the game dark. I tried adjusting the in-game brightness and HDR settings, but that didn't help. I'm gonna try the gaming settings posted by wildgator25 when I get home, but I'm also curious about this JS mod that I keep hearing about. Unfortunately, I can't actually find a post/video/anything explaining what it is or how to do it. Could someone point me in the right direction? I saw something about it being in the AVS HU7250 Forum, but still haven't been able to locate anything.

Thanks in advance!
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post #9334 of 10380 Old 12-15-2016, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JewelsVerne View Post
Hey guys, new poster here.

I bought the JU7100 around April, and so far so good. A couple months ago I also upgraded to an Xbox One S so I could take advantage of HDR gaming (we're big gamers at my house). Got the Xbox set up correctly with green check marks across the board. Loaded up Gears of War 4 and....I was disappointed. The HDR just seems like it's making the game dark. I tried adjusting the in-game brightness and HDR settings, but that didn't help. I'm gonna try the gaming settings posted by wildgator25 when I get home, but I'm also curious about this JS mod that I keep hearing about. Unfortunately, I can't actually find a post/video/anything explaining what it is or how to do it. Could someone point me in the right direction? I saw something about it being in the AVS HU7250 Forum, but still haven't been able to locate anything.

Thanks in advance!
The JS mod has been overcome by firmware updates. There's no real benefit to performing it any longer. The main benefit was getting Amazon HDR, but that is available now without the mod.
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Samsung JU7100 and NU7100 4K TVs, Yamaha RX-V583, Nvidia Shield, a number of Roku players and TVs, Windows 10 media server with Serviio and Plex. Other players and TVs as well.
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post #9335 of 10380 Old 12-15-2016, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JewelsVerne View Post
Hey guys, new poster here.

I bought the JU7100 around April, and so far so good. A couple months ago I also upgraded to an Xbox One S so I could take advantage of HDR gaming (we're big gamers at my house). Got the Xbox set up correctly with green check marks across the board. Loaded up Gears of War 4 and....I was disappointed. The HDR just seems like it's making the game dark. I tried adjusting the in-game brightness and HDR settings, but that didn't help. I'm gonna try the gaming settings posted by wildgator25 when I get home, but I'm also curious about this JS mod that I keep hearing about. Unfortunately, I can't actually find a post/video/anything explaining what it is or how to do it. Could someone point me in the right direction? I saw something about it being in the AVS HU7250 Forum, but still haven't been able to locate anything.

Thanks in advance!
Dynamic Contrast on High, the correct HDMI Black Level , and adjusting the in game Brightness should sort you out. You will be amazed at the difference HDR can make when properly displayed.
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post #9336 of 10380 Old 12-15-2016, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by nad0104 View Post
Your welcome, let me know how it turns out, it works great for me.
There is a flaw thought, when in a game the tv settings go back to standard and enertain, when out of the game the tv goes back to normal.
I play the Crysis series. I also use my tv as a PC monitor 95% of the time.
Well bad news...the incredibly STUPID breakout box suddenly stopped working. I keep getting that is not connected and it was just working fine. Thanks Samsung for not even giving us ONE damn hdmi port...now I have a 40" paperweight on my desk.
Never again Samsung! :/

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post #9337 of 10380 Old 12-15-2016, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Peja View Post
I purchased 75" JU7100 a few days ago and so far am perplexed and disappointed. When the picture is bright the picture is very good. When dark it's horrendous. I have used a blend of recommended settings for a starting point but have been bogged down by the PQ and trying to get a clear picture. It could be a mostly Directv issue but it happens on Netflix and Amazon also. I did however watch the pilot for Goliath in 4k HDR that was stunning.
I have the same issue. I kinda dismissed it as a source issue but then i moved to my $350 Hisense 4k tv and thought the blacks looked much better and didn't show the same blotchiness of my 55 inch ju7100. Not sure if theres a fix out there but the dark picture performance is not impressive.
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post #9338 of 10380 Old 12-15-2016, 09:13 PM
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I finished adjusting my 2 and 10 point whites on my JU7100 using a i1D3 meter, and I cannot explain how much of a difference getting these calibrated makes. The whole tonality and gamma curve is adjusted by these menu selections, and it is like owning a totally different TV. No more messing with things trying to get the shadows to be bright enough without overblowing (and causing noise) in the highlights, just looks smooth and perfect. The meter was only $190, and you also get the free software to double calibrate further on a PC, or even a laptop screen, all for that one purchase price.

I am sure p5 would agree, even the best "general" settings he can give you will never be as good as spending just a couple of hours straightening your red blue and green lines in the 2 and 10 point menu. If you sell your meter after calibrating, you'd only lose $20 on eBay, not a bad deal. And never trust 2 and 10 point corrections from someone elses TV set. The 2 and 10 points for the JU7100 on rtings.com were nowhere near accurate for my JU7100.

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post #9339 of 10380 Old 12-16-2016, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
I finished adjusting my 2 and 10 point whites on my JU7100 using a i1D3 meter, and I cannot explain how much of a difference getting these calibrated makes. The whole tonality and gamma curve is adjusted by these menu selections, and it is like owning a totally different TV. No more messing with things trying to get the shadows to be bright enough without overblowing (and causing noise) in the highlights, just looks smooth and perfect. The meter was only $190, and you also get the free software to double calibrate further on a PC, or even a laptop screen, all for that one purchase price.

I am sure p5 would agree, even the best "general" settings he can give you will never be as good as spending just a couple of hours straightening your red blue and green lines in the 2 and 10 point menu. If you sell your meter after calibrating, you'd only lose $20 on eBay, not a bad deal. And never trust 2 and 10 point corrections from someone elses TV set. The 2 and 10 points for the JU7100 on rtings.com were nowhere near accurate for my JU7100.

Paul
The XRITE Color Meters are good, but have issues. Current comparison between my i1Pro 2 and i1Display Pro before profiling, showed the Pro to have elevated Blues, depressed Reds and on par Green. Profiling fixed the issues, then onto the calibration. Next comparison will be the i1Pro 2 versus the Spectracal C6, that has been languishing in my sock drawer as it recuperates from not being so good. Last time I checked, almost back up to snuff.

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post #9340 of 10380 Old 12-16-2016, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
The XRITE Color Meters are good, but have issues. Current comparison between my i1Pro 2 and i1Display Pro before profiling, showed the Pro to have elevated Blues, depressed Reds and on par Green. Profiling fixed the issues, then onto the calibration. Next comparison will be the i1Pro 2 versus the Spectracal C6, that has been languishing in my sock drawer as it recuperates from not being so good. Last time I checked, almost back up to snuff.
The i1Display Pro is a Colorimeter yet is better for setting Grayscale and Gamma. The i1 Pro 2 is a Spectrophotometer and is better for Color Space. Of course there will be a difference between the two but for reflectance the differences are probably (and for arguments sake I use that word lightly) visually negligible.

How do I know? I use a Color i7 made by X-Rite on a daily basis. This Spectrophotometer is about 20 times the price of the i1 Pro 2 yet both perceive color reflectance extremely close.
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post #9341 of 10380 Old 12-16-2016, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Luis Gabriel Gerena View Post
Well bad news...the incredibly STUPID breakout box suddenly stopped working. I keep getting that is not connected and it was just working fine. Thanks Samsung for not even giving us ONE damn hdmi port...now I have a 40" paperweight on my desk.
Never again Samsung! :/
That`s to bad, I think the one connect box is available for purchase.

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post #9342 of 10380 Old 12-16-2016, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by nad0104 View Post
That`s to bad, I think the one connect box is available for purchase.
I am not spending a dime on this junk. I cannot be sure it is the box or something inside the tv where the box connect that may have died. If it was like any other TV, I would have no such problem. I was looking at the KS8000 based on the reviews but seeing that it also has this "clever" box idea, I completely removed it from my list.
Lesson learned :/
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post #9343 of 10380 Old 12-16-2016, 07:02 PM
 
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What blu-ray players are you guys using? I just picked up a Sony s1700. It seems fine so far, but I was wondering about the settings. It has an option to output different resolutions. The default is auto, but there is also one called 'original' or something like that. Wondering if it would be better to choose that and let the ju7100 do all the upscaling, or if it doesn't really matter?
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post #9344 of 10380 Old 12-16-2016, 11:13 PM
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Just a heads up that Amazon released a new Amazon video app on the Xbox One S that finally has separate sections for UHD/HDR content, both for Prime and available to purchase. You'll have to buy any videos from the web browser though. It should show up in your Ready to Install list.
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post #9345 of 10380 Old 12-17-2016, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by mitch079 View Post
Just a heads up that Amazon released a new Amazon video app on the Xbox One S that finally has separate sections for UHD/HDR content, both for Prime and available to purchase. You'll have to buy any videos from the web browser though. It should show up in your Ready to Install list.

Have you actually installed it? It hasn't shown up for me. I even uninstalled Amazon Prime and reinstalled it, but still no UHD.
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post #9346 of 10380 Old 12-17-2016, 08:39 AM
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Have you actually installed it? It hasn't shown up for me. I even uninstalled Amazon Prime and reinstalled it, but still no UHD.
Yes, on Wednesday or Thursday. It showed up automatically in the Ready to Install list. It was a black square with the green Amazon video logo on it. The other app with the white square still exists as I uninstalled that and it shows up in the Ready to Install list now. I'll probably hide it at some point.
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post #9347 of 10380 Old 12-17-2016, 10:03 AM
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They might have pulled that app temporarily. I went to the store page on the Xbox S and it said it wasn't available above the launch button. There were a handful of reviews that said UHD content caused the app to crash. I haven't had that issue though and left a review stating that.
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post #9348 of 10380 Old 12-17-2016, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by wildgator25 View Post
The i1Display Pro is a Colorimeter yet is better for setting Grayscale and Gamma. The i1 Pro 2 is a Spectrophotometer and is better for Color Space. Of course there will be a difference between the two but for reflectance the differences are probably (and for arguments sake I use that word lightly) visually negligible.

How do I know? I use a Color i7 made by X-Rite on a daily basis. This Spectrophotometer is about 20 times the price of the i1 Pro 2 yet both perceive color reflectance extremely close.
2 Point calibrated with i1Pro 2.

Then scanned the results with the i1Display Pro, and Spectracal C6 - readings virtually identical.

So whereas the i1Pro 2 calibrated results had all the RGBs 30 and 100% on the 100 line, C6 and i1Display Pro showed the following:
30% Red = -102, Green on the 100 line, and Blue at the +103 line. 100% Red = -103, Green on the 100 line, and Blue at +106.
Profiling both Meters resulted in almost identical results to the i1Pro 2 when re-scanned.
Profiling gets the more precise Spectro i1Pro 2 calibrations, with the added feature of better lower %ers, and faster calibrations of the Color Meter. Also, more precise CMS calibrations of the Spectro i1Pro2, but faster speed of the Color Meters. Why we profile.
Also Spectro's maintain their calibration settings FAR longer than a Color Meter. Profiling also over comes the aging of the Color Meter to extend their life expectancy. Sure Spectro's cost more, but your calibrations are far more accurate.
Note: Lower red means you are going to push up the Reds, causing the sunburn look, and higher Blues will tend to lower your calibration that will make the PQ look duller. In the long run, especially if calibrating more than 1 TV in the house, the Spectro pays for itself.

Note:$ - i1Display Pro is lower hundreds, C6 mid hundreds, and i1Pro 2 top of the hundreds.

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post #9349 of 10380 Old 12-18-2016, 06:05 AM
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I got the Oppo 203 working yesterday. Right off the box the picture quality was breathtaking. I'm running it thought HDMI1. I tried to watch Bosch in UHD on Amazon and it was dark and dull. I read the last ten pages or so here and I have seen other people reporting the same issue, but I haven't found an explanation and a fix for it. I don't have a colorimeter and I know using someone else's settings are no good to me. Are there any settings on the menu to make Amazon UHD look better?
Bosch looks very good on my two year old 55 inch Samsung. I expected the improved picture to blow me away. I'm hoping for help for a fix.
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post #9350 of 10380 Old 12-18-2016, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by eldorado01 View Post
I got the Oppo 203 working yesterday. Right off the box the picture quality was breathtaking. I'm running it thought HDMI1. I tried to watch Bosch in UHD on Amazon and it was dark and dull. I read the last ten pages or so here and I have seen other people reporting the same issue, but I haven't found an explanation and a fix for it. I don't have a colorimeter and I know using someone else's settings are no good to me. Are there any settings on the menu to make Amazon UHD look better?
Bosch looks very good on my two year old 55 inch Samsung. I expected the improved picture to blow me away. I'm hoping for help for a fix.
UHD has not been a problem on this TV quite the opposite any source I have tried displays UHD as it should a terrific picture. Do you possibly mean HDR material?
So I would start to see if you are starting with the correct settings, both on the TV starting with having the input set to UHD Color, and with the output of the Oppo set correctly. Then I am not quite following your logic that the excellent findings here on how to get HDR to provide a very good picture would not work for you. Take a look at those suggestions no color meter is needed. Of course you should be starting out with the correct Gamma etc something not done by eye. There are a couple of excellent display settings here if you need a calibrated setting. Someone's correctly calibrated settings may not be exactly correct but it has easily been proven here they will be very close to perfect. Wildgator's settings for instance have made my picture beyond what I thought this TV could do for all resolutions including UHD. With the further findings of others on how to get HDR material to look good I am getting a great picture on shows from Amazon for example with HDR. One exception may be Red Oaks that seems to have murky scenes sometimes and great looking ones at others. But then their other shows with HDR using the settings found in this thread look very good including Grand Tour.
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post #9351 of 10380 Old 12-18-2016, 07:06 AM
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Could you point me in the right direction, please? Probably scanning posts at 3:00 am is not the best idea.
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post #9352 of 10380 Old 12-18-2016, 07:30 PM
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I have a question,when in a certain settings some of the features are greyed out,like the advanced menu is there a way in the service menu to activate it
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post #9353 of 10380 Old 12-19-2016, 02:52 AM
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I'm sorry if I wasn't clear before. The Oppo displays beautiful, vibrant colors and it's clearly working well. I enabled UHD on HDMI1 on the TV when installing it. My problem occurs when I turn to watch Amazon on the TV app. It says UHD content is available. Since this is directly the TV feed and not a source fed through an HDMI input, I can't enable UHD and I believe HDR is not on. The resulting picture is dull. Am I missing something I have to enable or is it simply that the picture settings need to be adjusted?

By the way, I'm not trying to be lazy and not read the thread. Is just that I may have missed the answer to my question if it has already been posted.
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post #9354 of 10380 Old 12-19-2016, 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by eldorado01 View Post
I'm sorry if I wasn't clear before. The Oppo displays beautiful, vibrant colors and it's clearly working well. I enabled UHD on HDMI1 on the TV when installing it. My problem occurs when I turn to watch Amazon on the TV app. It says UHD content is available. Since this is directly the TV feed and not a source fed through an HDMI input, I can't enable UHD and I believe HDR is not on. The resulting picture is dull. Am I missing something I have to enable or is it simply that the picture settings need to be adjusted?

By the way, I'm not trying to be lazy and not read the thread. Is just that I may have missed the answer to my question if it has already been posted.

For viewing HDR content, you can try >> THESE << TV settings.


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post #9355 of 10380 Old 12-19-2016, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by eldorado01 View Post
I'm sorry if I wasn't clear before. The Oppo displays beautiful, vibrant colors and it's clearly working well. I enabled UHD on HDMI1 on the TV when installing it. My problem occurs when I turn to watch Amazon on the TV app. It says UHD content is available. Since this is directly the TV feed and not a source fed through an HDMI input, I can't enable UHD and I believe HDR is not on. The resulting picture is dull. Am I missing something I have to enable or is it simply that the picture settings need to be adjusted?

By the way, I'm not trying to be lazy and not read the thread. Is just that I may have missed the answer to my question if it has already been posted.
Do you have the latest firmware on your TV? What streams are you trying to watch, and what are the picture settings you have when watching? Can you confirm that you're actually getting UHD+HDR stream quality, or is it perhaps streaming at lower resolution? Is the TV in a well-lit or dark room?

I haven't watched too much UHD content yet except the first episode of The Grand Tour, using wildgator's settings, and UHD+HDR looked pretty good to me. However, the app streamed it at lower rez for the first couple seconds and it looked awful.
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post #9356 of 10380 Old 12-19-2016, 12:11 PM
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Speaking of the builtin Amazon app, I started watching a movie and noticed I was only getting 2.1 sound through ARC to my Yamaha TSR-5810. My sound settings are Bitstream, Dolby, HD Audio on. Are those correct for getting 5.1? Does the builtin app not support surround out? I forgot to check any other streams and was reminded just now about this.

I ended up switching to my PS3 and using the Amazon app to stream the same movie to get surround sound. Not sure if the PS3 app does automatic 5.1 conversion...
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post #9357 of 10380 Old 12-19-2016, 12:17 PM
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I do have the latest firmware. The info tab tell me I'm getting UHD, but I don't recall it saying HDR. My TV sits on the wall of the family room, between two windows but no direct lighting on it. I don't recall the settings, but they were quite different from the ones from Wildgator.

The kids and I like to watch the Thunderbirds on Amazon. Not 4K or HDR, put the picture is excellent. I switched to Bosch, which is highlighted as an UHD show on Amazon. Dull picture. I was fiddling with the settings last night and I got more light into it, but then started to look washed out.

I would spring for somebody to calibrate my TV, but believe it or not, there's ISF calibration in the Greater Washington metropolitan area, and I don't trust the Best Buy crew to touch my TV.

I have AV knowledge , basic compared to most of the members here, but no calibration equipment to do it myself. It seems like working this TV's settings with multiple sources and options is getting the best of me.

By the way. I get Dolby Digital through ARC on my Denon 2200.
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post #9358 of 10380 Old 12-19-2016, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
2 Point calibrated with i1Pro 2.

Then scanned the results with the i1Display Pro, and Spectracal C6 - readings virtually identical.

So whereas the i1Pro 2 calibrated results had all the RGBs 30 and 100% on the 100 line, C6 and i1Display Pro showed the following:
30% Red = -102, Green on the 100 line, and Blue at the +103 line. 100% Red = -103, Green on the 100 line, and Blue at +106.
Profiling both Meters resulted in almost identical results to the i1Pro 2 when re-scanned.
Profiling gets the more precise Spectro i1Pro 2 calibrations, with the added feature of better lower %ers, and faster calibrations of the Color Meter. Also, more precise CMS calibrations of the Spectro i1Pro2, but faster speed of the Color Meters. Why we profile.
Also Spectro's maintain their calibration settings FAR longer than a Color Meter. Profiling also over comes the aging of the Color Meter to extend their life expectancy. Sure Spectro's cost more, but your calibrations are far more accurate.
Note: Lower red means you are going to push up the Reds, causing the sunburn look, and higher Blues will tend to lower your calibration that will make the PQ look duller. In the long run, especially if calibrating more than 1 TV in the house, the Spectro pays for itself.

Note:$ - i1Display Pro is lower hundreds, C6 mid hundreds, and i1Pro 2 top of the hundreds.
I understand that there are differences, but for the novice these differences are negligible. You have even posted in the past that you saw differences in the visual after firmware updates. No one is going to pay a professional calibrator to come back out to their home after one to (x) amount of firmware updates to reset their picture to ISF standard. Any trustworthy calibrator will tell you that the numbers you have above are nothing to be concerned about. (as if the novice could supply them anyways )

Now, if we are being pessimistic, then we would opt to move the numbers to or towards standard as close as possible. However, I believe the adjustments made will definitely not be visually seen in the full picture as you would move from (by your quoted figures) a DE of max 1.5 down closer to DE 0.0 with whatever adjustments you make.

I would not buy an i1 Pro 2 for my hobby. Being that I have access to one from my workplace, it was a no-brainer to use it to profile the i1 Display Pro 3. Hence, why I still use HCFR as I don't wish to buy the expensive (in my opinion) CalMan or Chromapure. I will admit that I don't know everything about calibrating, but I don't know much more that could possibly be done (within standard) for my 7100. I am in awe at times with some of the images displayed, but that is also reliant on the source material. Even the best of calibrations can look like crap with the wrong source!

Last edited by wildgator25; 12-19-2016 at 12:37 PM.
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post #9359 of 10380 Old 12-19-2016, 01:52 PM
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Supposedly, the average joe can't see a difference of 3 or less. I would assume the average trained eye Member of the Forum, more like 1.5 to 2.
BUT, Red at -103, and Blue at +106 is a difference of 10 counting the Zero line. FAR greater than even 3 for the average joe.

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post #9360 of 10380 Old 12-19-2016, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
Supposedly, the average joe can't see a difference of 3 or less. I would assume the average trained eye Member of the Forum, more like 1.5 to 2.
BUT, Red at -103, and Blue at +106 is a difference of 10 counting the Zero line. FAR greater than even 3 for the average joe.
That's just it, you are not talking DE calculation. That difference is not 10 DE.
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