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post #9511 of 10358 Old 01-19-2017, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bouncernl90 View Post
Try raising the gamma for HDR. Should splve the crushed blacks and contrast.

HDR is not made for perfect REC709 , its made to impress!


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I don't have a black crush problem, I have a grey blacks problem with the damn backlight set to 20 for HDR with normal/dark scenes...daylight "dazzle" scenes look fine.

Paul
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post #9512 of 10358 Old 01-19-2017, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
I don't have a black crush problem, I have a grey blacks problem with the damn backlight set to 20 for HDR with normal/dark scenes...daylight "dazzle" scenes look fine.



Paul

Try gamma -1 or 0. Should be gone than!


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post #9513 of 10358 Old 01-19-2017, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bouncernl90 View Post
Try gamma -1 or 0. Should be gone than!


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INCREASING gamma effectively increases brightness. The problem is that the backlight LED is so bright at 20, that complete black screen would still measure 4-5x brighter than the TV is capable of producing when calibrated properly at 100cdm.

I will see how DC and that backlighting thing works.....the LED thingy messes with my icons when looking at my PC screen though, blows them out.

Paul
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post #9514 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 02:27 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bouncernl90 View Post
The JU7100 is a direct led tv, not edge led. And most don't get the crushed blacks while playing HDR.

Play around with Gamma and settings and if you are really unhappy try some Bias lighting!


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True, but it doesn't have precise local dimming, unfortunately.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
I don't have a black crush problem, I have a grey blacks problem with the damn backlight set to 20 for HDR with normal/dark scenes...daylight "dazzle" scenes look fine.

Paul
I get very gray blacks on SDR and backlight 5. I'm not sure what's going on, as some material looks good, but a lot of stuff looks very washed out on dim scenes. I guess it's content related, but I see it on a lot of content. My brightness is already at 44 and gamma -1, and I'm using Smart LED.
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post #9515 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 04:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milehighou View Post
True, but it doesn't have precise local dimming, unfortunately.



I get very gray blacks on SDR and backlight 5. I'm not sure what's going on, as some material looks good, but a lot of stuff looks very washed out on dim scenes. I guess it's content related, but I see it on a lot of content. My brightness is already at 44 and gamma -1, and I'm using Smart LED.
My set is 2 and 10 point calibrated with a i1D#, then ran the calibrator on Windows PC feeding the TV, so double calibrated!

At backlight of 5, gamma at -3, brightness 46, the resulting black levels is very nice, lots of detail. I set my blacks by the meter, going up in increments of 1 and settled on the highest setting that still resulted in the lowest base sensor reading. The grey blacks I am referring to is the GLOW of the LCD panel behind the blacked out scene, like shining a torch through your palm! After doing a 2 and 10 point calibration, things like brightness and gamma in the TV menu cannot be considered transferable to other sets.

Pau
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post #9516 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bouncernl90 View Post
The backlight maxes at 20. But most people find the HDR overall picture dimmer than normal viewing.

Try turning on dynamic contrast on high and smart led on high while watching HDR.
+1 THIS!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bouncernl90 View Post
Try gamma -1 or 0. Should be gone than!
+1 MORE OF THIS!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bouncernl90 View Post
Try raising the gamma for HDR. Should splve the crushed blacks and contrast.

HDR is not made for perfect REC709 , its made to impress!
+10 OF THIS!

I am not quite sure what some people are expecting to see with HDR. I have seen some content "mastered in HDR" that was amazing and some that was bleh. HDR content requires manipulating settings from Rec 709 to consider the HDR content viewable, acceptable, amazing, (substitute whatever adjective you prefer)....

The changes I had to make from my Rec 709 calibration was Dynamic Contrast from Off to High, Brightness from 45 to 43, Color Space from Custom to Native, and Gamma from -1 to 1. Does this change my Rec 709 calibration to a near perfect Rec 2020? Absolutely not because our 7100 is missing one primary component for HDR..... WIDE COLOR GAMUT. But, I have found these settings to look very good on Amazon HDR content and HDR files via USB. The verdict is still out on Netflix HDR as I have not been impressed with the content Netflix has to offer in HDR.

@Anderegg , if your Rec 709 calibration requires Backlight of 5 and Gamma of -3, then your panel must be extremely different from most others I have seen on this forum. I don't know if your Service Menu White Balance settings are wonked, but I can't understand why you would have to go to the bottom end of the Gamma slider for calibration. I have to assume that you are aiming for 2.4 Gamma and you are in a pitch black room with no incoming lighting whatsoever to have your Backlight that low. But, if you are satisfied, then this would help explain why you have such issue with HDR metadata changing your Backlight to 20. It is not the same as watching SDR content and moving the slider to 20 by no means, but overall content will appear "brighter" when the HDR kicks in from 5 to 20.

@milehighou , I believe you are about as good as you can expect from this set as far as calibrations go. When you witness "some content great, some content not so great", and it's from the same source (Amazon, Netflix, cable, satellite, etc.) then if boils down to how the content was filmed and the limitations of the 7100. This is where Cal Day and Cal Night really help as you can adjust settings to your preference and swap between them to satisfy your viewing preference. If you are having trouble with just one source, then it's likely an issue with the source or something in between (HDMI cable, HDMI Black Level set wrong, source settings interfering with 7100's {i.e. Brightness, Contrast, Gamma settings on a Bluray player or gaming console}).
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post #9517 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 07:10 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildgator25 View Post
+1 THIS!



+1 MORE OF THIS!



+10 OF THIS!

I am not quite sure what some people are expecting to see with HDR. I have seen some content "mastered in HDR" that was amazing and some that was bleh. HDR content requires manipulating settings from Rec 709 to consider the HDR content viewable, acceptable, amazing, (substitute whatever adjective you prefer)....

The changes I had to make from my Rec 709 calibration was Dynamic Contrast from Off to High, Brightness from 45 to 43, Color Space from Custom to Native, and Gamma from -1 to 1. Does this change my Rec 709 calibration to a near perfect Rec 2020? Absolutely not because our 7100 is missing one primary component for HDR..... WIDE COLOR GAMUT. But, I have found these settings to look very good on Amazon HDR content and HDR files via USB. The verdict is still out on Netflix HDR as I have not been impressed with the content Netflix has to offer in HDR.

@Anderegg , if your Rec 709 calibration requires Backlight of 5 and Gamma of -3, then your panel must be extremely different from most others I have seen on this forum. I don't know if your Service Menu White Balance settings are wonked, but I can't understand why you would have to go to the bottom end of the Gamma slider for calibration. I have to assume that you are aiming for 2.4 Gamma and you are in a pitch black room with no incoming lighting whatsoever to have your Backlight that low. But, if you are satisfied, then this would help explain why you have such issue with HDR metadata changing your Backlight to 20. It is not the same as watching SDR content and moving the slider to 20 by no means, but overall content will appear "brighter" when the HDR kicks in from 5 to 20.

@milehighou , I believe you are about as good as you can expect from this set as far as calibrations go. When you witness "some content great, some content not so great", and it's from the same source (Amazon, Netflix, cable, satellite, etc.) then if boils down to how the content was filmed and the limitations of the 7100. This is where Cal Day and Cal Night really help as you can adjust settings to your preference and swap between them to satisfy your viewing preference. If you are having trouble with just one source, then it's likely an issue with the source or something in between (HDMI cable, HDMI Black Level set wrong, source settings interfering with 7100's {i.e. Brightness, Contrast, Gamma settings on a Bluray player or gaming console}).
Thanks. The only thing that seems to help with the hazy scenes is lowering brightness to near 40, using black tone (darker or darkest) or turning on dynamic contrast. Are you guys using dynamic contrast for SDR stuff, too? Medium seems reasonable, but high produces a lot of crush.
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post #9518 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milehighou View Post
Thanks. The only thing that seems to help with the hazy scenes is lowering brightness to near 40, using black tone (darker or darkest) or turning on dynamic contrast. Are you guys using dynamic contrast for SDR stuff, too? Medium seems reasonable, but high produces a lot of crush.
No, I don't use Dynamic Contrast or Black Tone with SDR content.
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post #9519 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
My set is 2 and 10 point calibrated with a i1D#, then ran the calibrator on Windows PC feeding the TV, so double calibrated!

At backlight of 5, gamma at -3, brightness 46, the resulting black levels is very nice, lots of detail. I set my blacks by the meter, going up in increments of 1 and settled on the highest setting that still resulted in the lowest base sensor reading. The grey blacks I am referring to is the GLOW of the LCD panel behind the blacked out scene, like shining a torch through your palm! After doing a 2 and 10 point calibration, things like brightness and gamma in the TV menu cannot be considered transferable to other sets.

Pau
Brightness should not go beyond 45.
As a test, put up a completely Black Pattern. Now adjust the Brightness. You should see the screen lighten up as you go from 45 to 46.
Start at 40, then go up one value at a time, and observe what the outcome is on the panel.
Masciola HDR Patterns contain an HDR 0% Pattern - will have to check whether HDR changes the 45 rule.
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post #9520 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
Brightness should not go beyond 45.
As a test, put up a completely Black Pattern. Now adjust the Brightness. You should see the screen lighten up as you go from 45 to 46.
Start at 40, then go up one value at a time, and observe what the outcome is on the panel.
Masciola HDR Patterns contain an HDR 0% Pattern - will have to check whether HDR changes the 45 rule.
P5 is correct, 45 is the OPTIMAL brightness setting...I just remembered I run mine at 46 because the angle of tilt for my POV is slightly under line of site, so this compensates for that contrast shift to crushed looking darks.

Paul
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post #9521 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 12:40 PM
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After a decade I replaced my main TV. The poor old WD-73831 Rear Projection had a breakdown in December of 2016 to the point the wife finally OKed a new set.

So I ordered the UN75JU7100 from Samsung through the perksatwork.com Employee Purchase Incentive Program provided by my company (thanks to the awesome tips from this thread).
I also picked up a UN40JU7100 to update my computer monitor.

Both were delivered earlier this month and I've been enjoying them while reading through the thread and configuring the set.

Both sets currently have Firmware 1467 (as of 2017-01-21 updates)

UN40JU7100
Mfg Date: June 2016
Panel: TS01
Excellent panel/screen with no noted issues.
Desktop resolution in use: [email protected] 32bit 8bpc RGB Full via GTX 1070 (TV reports [email protected] so I imagine the upscale is NVIDIA driver) HDMI Black Level Normal

UN75JU7100
Mfg Date: Sept 2016
Panel: US02
Excellent panel/screen, no clouding, but some slight DSE on certain panning near whites and outdoor shots due to the size. Not really noticeable during most viewing.

Since the sets are so new I'm staying out of the service menu and advanced service menu, for now.

Both sets are currently using wildgator25's calibration settings as they are the best I've tried thus far for my sets and my eyes.

I did skip doing the WB in the service menu and as such adjusted the 2 Point Balance as follows (based on this post):
R-Offset: -15
G-Offset: 4
B-Offset: -21
R-Gain: -1
G-Gain: 6
B-Gain: 12

I also have HDMI UHD Color ON for all inputs on both.


I know I would not get a better calibration from my ancient Datacolor Spyder TV Pro with it's Spyder2 Colorimeter.

I very much enjoyed the many conversations about calibration as I read through this thread between folks like ArchonX, wildgator25, p5browne, and many others who I've failed to mention. All of the work and effort you've put into making your own sets look good and then sharing that data is appreciated.

My next purchase is of course a new receiver (old Yamaha RX-V2700) but I need to do a bit of research on that front.
I do have the following speakers available for use and so would look for a recommendation on configuration and receiver in the $500-1000 range supporting the latest codecs, 4k, and HDR:
Klipsch RW-10 (Sub)
Klipsch RF-62 (Tall Front)
Klipsch RF-62 (Tall Front)
Klipsch RC-52 (Center)
Klipsch RB-51 (Bookshelf)
Klipsch RB-51 (Bookshelf)
Klipsch RS-42 (Surround)
Klipsch RS-42 (Surround)
Klipsch RS-42 (Surround)
Klipsch RS-42 (Surround)
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Last edited by Kelendral; 01-23-2017 at 01:45 PM. Reason: Multiple changes, typos, corrections (including speaker models), fixes, etc New FW version.
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post #9522 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
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BTW, this f/w enables YOUTUBE HDR playback as well, but the set will not automatically increase the backlight and contrast.

Paul
Hey Paul,

The YouTube app on your TV does NOT have the VP9 profile 2 codec that is necessary to play YouTube HDR.

Therefore the "HDR" you are seeing through the on-board YouTube App is NOT "true" HDR (which is why your "Backlight" and "Contrast" settings are not changing).

Sorry!



Richard
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post #9523 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
Hey Paul,

The YouTube app on your TV does NOT have the VP9 profile 2 codec that is necessary to play YouTube HDR.

Therefore the "HDR" you are seeing through the on-board YouTube App is NOT "true" HDR (which is why your "Backlight" and "Contrast" settings are not changing).

Sorry!



Richard
I just realized that! It still looks better than Netflix haha. I seem to maybe still be getting the 10 bit portion of the HDR, I am not seeing any gradients visible in things like blue sky or dark patches.

Paul
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post #9524 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 06:28 PM
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My Tv just got upgraded from 1464.2 to 1472. What do we know of this update?
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post #9525 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 09:48 PM
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Wow awful quick since last update. Where are you at? I wonder if it's a patch to fix something in the Netflix HDR introduced in the last update? Maybe fix the one minute dropout from Netflix some of us have had.

Last edited by Peja; 01-20-2017 at 09:57 PM.
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post #9526 of 10358 Old 01-20-2017, 10:40 PM
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Guys. I feel like the clouding on my 75 inch TV is getting worse. This is with the RTINGS settings and the backlight at 6. :/ Watched a movie tonight and it was super annoying.
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post #9527 of 10358 Old 01-21-2017, 05:34 AM
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I'm in Maryland. The update popped up while we were watching The Crown on Netflix. We were just commenting on the picture looking particularly good then.
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post #9528 of 10358 Old 01-21-2017, 06:10 AM
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It's been almost 1 year since my last calibration so I thought it would be a good time to give it another go with HCFR.

Samsung UN65JU7100 with IH02 Panel

Firmware 1467
i1 Display Pro profiled with i1 Pro 2
HCFR 3.4.2
GCD - Gamut Calibration Disk BluRay

BT 1886/Rec 709 Calibration
Resulting Gamma of 2.39
Grayscale DE Average 0.17/Max 0.34
Color Checker Skin Tone DE Average 1.39/Max 2.96
Primary and Secondary DE Average 0.44/Max 1.49
Black 0.05 cd/m2, White 153.547 cd/m2 (Smart LED Off during calibration)

Picture Mode: Movie
Backlight: 7
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 5
Color: 50
Tint: G50/R50
Fit to Screen: On
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB Only Mode: Off
Gamma: -1
Color Tone: Warm2
Digital Clean View: Auto (Off during calibration)
MPEG Noise Filter: Auto (Off during calibration)
HDMI Black Level: Auto (Off during calibration)
HDMI UHD Color: N/A
Film Mode: N/A
Auto Motion Plus: Clear (Off during calibration)
Smart LED: High (Off during calibration)


Color Space calibrated with 100% Saturation/100% Luminance patterns

Color Space: Custom

Red: 44/0/2
Green: 15/46/12
Blue: 0/11/42
Yellow: 54/47/13
Cyan: 8/50/49
Magenta: 42/11/45


2 Point:

R-Offset: -1
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: -7
R-Gain: 2
G-Gain: 0
B-Gain: 3

10 Point:

10%: 2/7/-37
20%: -5/3/4
30%: 4/12/11
40%: 1/9/5
50%: 5/9/2
60%: -2/4/-3
70%: -4/6/-3
80%: -4/6/0
90%: -1/8/-1
100%: -8/0/-6
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post #9529 of 10358 Old 01-21-2017, 07:08 PM
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Carillon - since I have the same panel as you I applied your new settings. When watching UHD Blu-ray (Samsung player) there are times when blacks just seem crushed. Are you experiencing the same thing? Am I expecting too much?


Thanks!
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post #9530 of 10358 Old 01-22-2017, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRoy View Post
Carillon - since I have the same panel as you I applied your new settings. When watching UHD Blu-ray (Samsung player) there are times when blacks just seem crushed. Are you experiencing the same thing? Am I expecting too much?


Thanks!
Hey MrRoy... This calibration was done in a very dark room so that could have a bit to do with crushed blacks if you're watching in a room with ample ambient light. I would suggest leaving everything as is and try watching a few different sources. If blacks still seem crushed, you could bump the Backlight up to see if that improves things. I wouldn't go much beyond 10 though. Other than the black crush, how does the calibration look on your panel?

Thanks!
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post #9531 of 10358 Old 01-22-2017, 05:51 PM
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Updated my HDR Movie viewing settings. Just posting in case someone wants to try them. They are in my signature.
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post #9532 of 10358 Old 01-23-2017, 07:42 AM
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Updated my HDR Movie viewing settings. Just posting in case someone wants to try them. They are in my signature.
Thanks wildgator25
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post #9533 of 10358 Old 01-23-2017, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carillon View Post
Hey MrRoy... This calibration was done in a very dark room so that could have a bit to do with crushed blacks if you're watching in a room with ample ambient light. I would suggest leaving everything as is and try watching a few different sources. If blacks still seem crushed, you could bump the Backlight up to see if that improves things. I wouldn't go much beyond 10 though. Other than the black crush, how does the calibration look on your panel?



Thanks!


Looks great. The black crush was happening before I recalibrated. It may be the source.


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post #9534 of 10358 Old 01-24-2017, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
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Looks great. The black crush was happening before I recalibrated. It may be the source.


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Looks like I am wrong. When I look at the TV from an angle, side-to-side or top-to-bottom, I can see the detail that I am missing but the blacks are not as black. Extremely disappointing that I have to choose one or the other.


Crap...
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post #9535 of 10358 Old 01-24-2017, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mitch079 View Post
Just a heads up that Amazon released a new Amazon video app on the Xbox One S that finally has separate sections for UHD/HDR content, both for Prime and available to purchase. You'll have to buy any videos from the web browser though. It should show up in your Ready to Install list.
This app is available again but it doesn't have the separate sections for the 4K/HDR content and it doesn't seem to play content back yet in 4K based on my and other redditor's experiences. It's still better than the white box app as it's easier to find stuff but, without the HDR content, even if it says it is in your watchlist, it's lacking what people with the Xbox One S want.
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post #9536 of 10358 Old 01-24-2017, 06:41 PM
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Well, 4 months later and my JU7100's 3D problems remain a mystery. To recap briefly, there's bad ghosting at the extreme foreground or background of scenes in 3D movies. I can adjust the 3D perspective to fix one end of the picture, but the other one goes out of whack. I've tried:

  • Changed from L/R to R/L
  • Factory Reset
  • Service Menu Factory Reset (Done by Samsung Tech Support remotely)
  • JS Mod & Un-modding
  • 2 different 3D players (PS4 and K8500)
  • 2 different sets of 3D glasses (Current and prior gen Samsung active shutter)
  • 3 different HDMI Cables
  • New One Connect box and cable (under warranty)
  • New Mainboard (under warranty)
  • New Panel (under warranty)

Still has the same issue. I'm 99% sure I know what the problem is, it looks like the 3D depth is wrong somehow. I can't change the actual setting in the menu (it's greyed out, I think it can only be changed when doing 2D->3D conversion.) but I've seen 3D pictures look like this before when someone cranks up the depth way too high. It's not just minor ghosting, the 3D used to be fine on this TV. I have to change the 3D Perspective to something like -4 to get the background to be completely in focus, it gives you a headache to even try watching a movie in 3D now. I've tried adjusting the TV Size setting in the KU8500 all the way from 35 inches to 95, didn't help. I'm comfortable in the ASM and I've checked everywhere I can think of there, I can't find anywhere to adjust the "strength" of the 3D effect.

As for how the setting was thrown out of whack in the first place, I wrote down instructions for my wife to the JS Mod and she kind of botched it, panicked, and changed God knows what. (It's my fault, the instructions I wrote sucked, and I didn't properly warn her about how dangerous it was to go in there). And of course, it might be some other cause I haven't even thought of.

It can't continue to be worked on under warranty, the last technician said he had to close the ticket because he can't confirm there's still a major issue with it. He agrees the 3D looks completely wrong, but after replacement panel looked identical he said that was just as good as the 3D image on this TV gets. He said it's one of those things that doesn't bother most people until they notice it, like DLP rainbows used to be. I don't agree with him by any means, but it's subjective enough that I wasn't going to just stand there and argue with him incessantly.

So, mostly just posting this ending to:

A - Remind people to stay the $^@* out of the ASM unless they can be exceptionally careful about it

B - Ask if anyone has any last suggestions I may have overlooked to fix this. I'd still obviously really like to be able to watch 3D movies again someday, maybe there's a 3D guru here who will notice my plight.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
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post #9537 of 10358 Old 01-24-2017, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MrRoy View Post
Looks like I am wrong. When I look at the TV from an angle, side-to-side or top-to-bottom, I can see the detail that I am missing but the blacks are not as black. Extremely disappointing that I have to choose one or the other.


Crap...
I would just bump the Backlight up and leave all other settings as is while viewing straight on until you see the detail.
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post #9538 of 10358 Old 01-25-2017, 04:25 AM
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samsung JU7100

This is with the HDR signal doing that already. I had to turn up the brightness on the UHD player. It worked with turning the brightness on the TV as well but I chose the player.


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post #9539 of 10358 Old 01-25-2017, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Agentbolt View Post
Well, 4 months later and my JU7100's 3D problems remain a mystery. To recap briefly, there's bad ghosting at the extreme foreground or background of scenes in 3D movies. I can adjust the 3D perspective to fix one end of the picture, but the other one goes out of whack. I've tried:

  • Changed from L/R to R/L
  • Factory Reset
  • Service Menu Factory Reset (Done by Samsung Tech Support remotely)
  • JS Mod & Un-modding
  • 2 different 3D players (PS4 and K8500)
  • 2 different sets of 3D glasses (Current and prior gen Samsung active shutter)
  • 3 different HDMI Cables
  • New One Connect box and cable (under warranty)
  • New Mainboard (under warranty)
  • New Panel (under warranty)

Still has the same issue. I'm 99% sure I know what the problem is, it looks like the 3D depth is wrong somehow. I can't change the actual setting in the menu (it's greyed out, I think it can only be changed when doing 2D->3D conversion.) but I've seen 3D pictures look like this before when someone cranks up the depth way too high. It's not just minor ghosting, the 3D used to be fine on this TV. I have to change the 3D Perspective to something like -4 to get the background to be completely in focus, it gives you a headache to even try watching a movie in 3D now. I've tried adjusting the TV Size setting in the KU8500 all the way from 35 inches to 95, didn't help. I'm comfortable in the ASM and I've checked everywhere I can think of there, I can't find anywhere to adjust the "strength" of the 3D effect.

As for how the setting was thrown out of whack in the first place, I wrote down instructions for my wife to the JS Mod and she kind of botched it, panicked, and changed God knows what. (It's my fault, the instructions I wrote sucked, and I didn't properly warn her about how dangerous it was to go in there). And of course, it might be some other cause I haven't even thought of.

It can't continue to be worked on under warranty, the last technician said he had to close the ticket because he can't confirm there's still a major issue with it. He agrees the 3D looks completely wrong, but after replacement panel looked identical he said that was just as good as the 3D image on this TV gets. He said it's one of those things that doesn't bother most people until they notice it, like DLP rainbows used to be. I don't agree with him by any means, but it's subjective enough that I wasn't going to just stand there and argue with him incessantly.

So, mostly just posting this ending to:

A - Remind people to stay the $^@* out of the ASM unless they can be exceptionally careful about it

B - Ask if anyone has any last suggestions I may have overlooked to fix this. I'd still obviously really like to be able to watch 3D movies again someday, maybe there's a 3D guru here who will notice my plight.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Not sure if it will help or not but I've uploaded the two pictures I took prior to doing the JS Mod on my 75" JU7100 so that I could reverse everything later if needed. Maybe you can find something different in your settings. (NOTE: this is many firmware revisions ago so I have no idea if anything has changed in those menus.)
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post #9540 of 10358 Old 01-25-2017, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ml2517 View Post
Not sure if it will help or not but I've uploaded the two pictures I took prior to doing the JS Mod on my 75" JU7100 so that I could reverse everything later if needed. Maybe you can find something different in your settings. (NOTE: this is many firmware revisions ago so I have no idea if anything has changed in those menus.)
Well thanks, that's very thoughtful of you. I did take pictures of these areas of the ASM as well, nothing there has been changed. I KNOW for fact the wife did not go into this area, but there's a bunch of very, very obscure and technical-sounding 3D options accessible by hitting '0000" from within the ASM, one of those must be what got messed up. I just have no idea how it could have happened, or what (if any) of those settings affect the 3D depth affect.
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