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post #9541 of 10358 Old 01-25-2017, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Agentbolt View Post
Well thanks, that's very thoughtful of you. I did take pictures of these areas of the ASM as well, nothing there has been changed. I KNOW for fact the wife did not go into this area, but there's a bunch of very, very obscure and technical-sounding 3D options accessible by hitting '0000" from within the ASM, one of those must be what got messed up. I just have no idea how it could have happened, or what (if any) of those settings affect the 3D depth affect.
I'll send you a PM here shortly with a link to a dropbox folder with photos. I just went into both the different listings from that root menu that relate to 3D and drilled down into each and took pictures of all of the settings (after going into the service menu via Info->Factory and then 0000).
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post #9542 of 10358 Old 01-25-2017, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ml2517 View Post
I'll send you a PM here shortly with a link to a dropbox folder with photos. I just went into both the different listings from that root menu that relate to 3D and drilled down into each and took pictures of all of the settings (after going into the service menu via Info->Factory and then 0000).
That would be incredible, thank you so much. I'll report back with any findings.
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post #9543 of 10358 Old 01-25-2017, 04:06 PM
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Since we're on the 3D subject, I remember reading about a way to correct the soap opera effect on the JU7100 and now I can't find it. Does anyone remember how to fix it? Just disabling auto motion plus doesn't do it.
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post #9544 of 10358 Old 01-25-2017, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by eldorado01 View Post
Since we're on the 3D subject, I remember reading about a way to correct the soap opera effect on the JU7100 and now I can't find it. Does anyone remember how to fix it? Just disabling auto motion plus doesn't do it.
Try "custom" as a setting, and set the Judder reduction to 0 but the Blur reduction to 10. I'm 99% sure that's the fix, but I might have the two backwards. Either way, that should help solve the issue.
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post #9545 of 10358 Old 01-25-2017, 06:09 PM
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That was it. Judder 0 blur 10 does it. Thank you. I like to watch 3D and my "old" UN55H7150 does a beautiful job with it. I don't think the JU7100 does it as good.
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post #9546 of 10358 Old 01-26-2017, 04:16 PM
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Hi-

How do I setup my JU7100 to accept HDR from my Roku Premier +? I have HDMI UHD Color already on. When I watch Netlfix or Amazon via the Smarthub app, Brightness and Contrast go up as expected.


Thanks for any insight.

Brandon
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post #9547 of 10358 Old 01-26-2017, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon Anderson View Post
Hi-

How do I setup my JU7100 to accept HDR from my Roku Premier +? I have HDMI UHD Color already on. When I watch Netlfix or Amazon via the Smarthub app, Brightness and Contrast go up as expected.


Thanks for any insight.

Brandon
If the backlight increases to 100% when you play HDR content from the Roku, then you've already configured it correctly. Nothing else to do.

Dan
Samsung JU7100 4K TV, Yamaha RX-V583, Nvidia Shield, a number of Roku players and TVs, Windows 10 media server with Serviio and Plex. Other players and TVs as well.
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post #9548 of 10358 Old 01-27-2017, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by atc98092 View Post
If the backlight increases to 100% when you play HDR content from the Roku, then you've already configured it correctly. Nothing else to do.
It doesn't via the Roku, only when I watch via built in apps (SmartHub).
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post #9549 of 10358 Old 01-28-2017, 03:36 AM
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Anyone else getting constant crashing on 1467? I never had this problem on previous firmware versions, but 1467 is a nightmare...it can't go for 10-15 minutes without crashing back to HDMI input.

Paul
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post #9550 of 10358 Old 01-28-2017, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
Anyone else getting constant crashing on 1467? I never had this problem on previous firmware versions, but 1467 is a nightmare...it can't go for 10-15 minutes without crashing back to HDMI input.

Paul
No crashing here. You could # 1 Try unplugging the set overnight # 2 If # 1 doesn't work, then do a factory reset.

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post #9551 of 10358 Old 01-28-2017, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon Anderson View Post
It doesn't via the Roku, only when I watch via built in apps (SmartHub).
Ok, I misunderstood. The only setting on a Roku player that enables HDR is to set the display on 4K HDR. There's nothing else to do. If that's the setting you have it on, then there's something amiss between the Roku and the TV.

Are you going through an AVR? If so, is the AVR set to video passthrough? It should be. Is the AVR configured for Mode 1? Can't tell you where the menu setting is for that, as it differs between brands.

If there's no AVR, then make sure the TV HDMI input you are using is configured for UHD Color (different brands label it differently).

Dan
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post #9552 of 10358 Old 01-28-2017, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
Anyone else getting constant crashing on 1467? I never had this problem on previous firmware versions, but 1467 is a nightmare...it can't go for 10-15 minutes without crashing back to HDMI input.

Paul
No crashing here... running just fine.
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post #9553 of 10358 Old 01-28-2017, 04:58 PM
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No crashing here. You could # 1 Try unplugging the set overnight # 2 If # 1 doesn't work, then do a factory reset.
My 15+ day experience with v1467 is the same as p5browne's AND his suggestion to ""unPlugg"" AND 'Rest-the-Beast' overnight is No Joke!!

Doing So has ~~somehow~~ arrested / eliminated 'incorrect' behavior in the past on BOTH my otherwise, well-behaved & reliable Samsungs!!!
Fortunately, I've never had to do a 'ReSet'.

1_Samsung UN85JU7100 [TS01] fw1540.3 (wo JS Mod) & PBrowne's \WG's Cal's/ Sony DA5800ES/ 9.2 ch Definitive Technology/ PCH C-300
/Oppo 203/ USB HD's //// 2_Samsung UN60F8000/ Sony DA5400ES/ 7.1 ch Definitive Technology/ PCH C-300/ USB HD's

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post #9554 of 10358 Old 01-28-2017, 09:47 PM
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Mine seems to have calmed down from about a half dozen "one minute in" Netflix crashes. Solid now. What happened to 1472 reported earlier? Can't find it.
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post #9555 of 10358 Old 01-28-2017, 11:24 PM
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Mine seems to have calmed down from about a half dozen "one minute in" Netflix crashes. Solid now. What happened to 1472 reported earlier? Can't find it.
No idea, only Eldorado01 reported he received it.

Last edited by mitch079; 01-28-2017 at 11:37 PM.
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post #9556 of 10358 Old 01-30-2017, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by atc98092 View Post
Ok, I misunderstood. The only setting on a Roku player that enables HDR is to set the display on 4K HDR. There's nothing else to do. If that's the setting you have it on, then there's something amiss between the Roku and the TV.

Are you going through an AVR? If so, is the AVR set to video passthrough? It should be. Is the AVR configured for Mode 1? Can't tell you where the menu setting is for that, as it differs between brands.

If there's no AVR, then make sure the TV HDMI input you are using is configured for UHD Color (different brands label it differently).
That worked thanks much!
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post #9557 of 10358 Old 02-01-2017, 02:44 PM
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That worked thanks much!
Now that I have it configured correctly with 4k UHD both on the Roku and the 7100, I am experiencing picture drop for about 3 seconds or longer every few minutes. I presume it's a HDCP handshake issue but if anyone has any ideas let me know. Thanks much!
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post #9558 of 10358 Old 02-02-2017, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Brandon Anderson View Post
Now that I have it configured correctly with 4k UHD both on the Roku and the 7100, I am experiencing picture drop for about 3 seconds or longer every few minutes. I presume it's a HDCP handshake issue but if anyone has any ideas let me know. Thanks much!
I would order a new cable and try that. Something like: this

It could just be that your cable can't handle the amount of data at times.
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post #9559 of 10358 Old 02-02-2017, 06:54 PM
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Well this is fun. For some reason my set is auto pairing (never asks to actually pair, just pairs all by itself) with bluetooth speaker/ tv transmitter from someone else (I live in a smaller apt building) and Im getting constant notifications asking if I want to connect the two. Spent 1 hour with Sammy on chat last night, have deleted the "pairing" multiple times and at our witts end last night we did a full factory reset (awesome...).

Notifications are back tonight and I just checked and that damn speaker is "paired" under the bluetooth connections list again.

Anyone have any type of advise?

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post #9560 of 10358 Old 02-03-2017, 06:51 AM
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Well this is fun. For some reason my set is auto pairing (never asks to actually pair, just pairs all by itself) with bluetooth speaker/ tv transmitter from someone else (I live in a smaller apt building) and Im getting constant notifications asking if I want to connect the two. Spent 1 hour with Sammy on chat last night, have deleted the "pairing" multiple times and at our witts end last night we did a full factory reset (awesome...).

Notifications are back tonight and I just checked and that damn speaker is "paired" under the bluetooth connections list again.

Anyone have any type of advise?
Well, this is probably a last resort but there is an entry in the "Option" portion of the service menu that is titled "BT Support" On or Off. You would most likely be able to just disable bluetooth and not have to deal with it any longer. I'm not sure if that is going to affect anything else like the smart remote though.

If you don't care about the smart remote you can pick up several different types of normal IR remotes on ebay or Amazon for like $20 that work with the JU7100. I ordered this one and it has everything ya need: here
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Last edited by ml2517; 02-03-2017 at 07:32 AM.
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post #9561 of 10358 Old 02-03-2017, 02:51 PM
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Apologies, hoping someone can share what the latest "good/great" settings are for the 75JU7100 without `rtft' . Watching mostly Roku Ultra -> Netflix 4k HD, and/or HQ mkvs via HTPC. No 3D needed. Hate soap opera effect. Thanks!
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post #9562 of 10358 Old 02-03-2017, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jmill79 View Post
Well this is fun. For some reason my set is auto pairing (never asks to actually pair, just pairs all by itself) with bluetooth speaker/ tv transmitter from someone else (I live in a smaller apt building) and Im getting constant notifications asking if I want to connect the two. Spent 1 hour with Sammy on chat last night, have deleted the "pairing" multiple times and at our witts end last night we did a full factory reset (awesome...).

Notifications are back tonight and I just checked and that damn speaker is "paired" under the bluetooth connections list again.

Anyone have any type of advise?
Poking around the audio menus, under Sound->Additional Settings->TV SoundConnect->Samsung Audio Device List, it lists the devices. If that speaker shows up there, it says you can set the device to 'Don't use,' which will deny any connection requests from that device. Try that and see if that works.
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post #9563 of 10358 Old 02-03-2017, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mitch079 View Post
Poking around the audio menus, under Sound->Additional Settings->TV SoundConnect->Samsung Audio Device List, it lists the devices. If that speaker shows up there, it says you can set the device to 'Don't use,' which will deny any connection requests from that device. Try that and see if that works.

Just tried, the offender is not listed under "TvSoundconnect" the problem connection is listed under "Bluetooth Audio"

I got really excited, but thanks for the suggestion!

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post #9564 of 10358 Old 02-03-2017, 06:11 PM
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Exclamation Light and our Perception of Color

Light plays a HUGE role in the way we perceive color. It’s actually the color of the light that determines the color your brain will perceive. The color of light makes things appear to change throughout the day, even though the objects themselves remain the same.

At night, colors appear much darker and lose their saturation and intensity. At sunrise everything has a yellowish-orange cast. At noon on a sunny day, the environment is cooler and more blue. Under fluorescent light, everything appears more green. And at sunset, colors are deeper and cast in shadow.



As strange as it sounds, objects themselves don’t have color. They have properties that determine which wavelengths of light are absorbed, and which are reflected. It is the mixture of the reflected light that enters our eyes that gives us the perception of color.

In addition to "lighting", there are a number of other factors which play a role in our ability to accurately see color, such as, surrounding colors, poor color memory, color deficiency, retinal fatigue, age, etc.

"The Dress"

Do you recall the social media controversy around "The Dress"?
What did you see? "Blue and black" or "white and gold"?
(Note: The original picture is the one in the middle.)



It all has to do with our perception of color. Our eyes can play tricks on us as our brain is managing vast amount of information and processing it the best it can. Without a point of reference, we each perceive color in our own way.

If you believe the dress picture was taken in bright sunlight, your brain will apply darker colors and you’ll think it’s "blue & black". But if you think the dress is hidden in a shadow, you’ll imagine the colors to be "white & gold".

The photo of the dress was not taken under ideal lighting conditions, and it is that lack of information that confused everyone’s brain. Lighting and the technology we use to view things is a major factor in color perception. Different people pick up on different visual cues, which changes how we interpret and perceive colors.

(Incidentally, the actual colour of the dress was confirmed to be "blue & black")

Color Memory

While lighting explains part of the dress color mystery, there’s something else at play. Our brains have "learned" how objects should look (color memory), and we apply this knowledge to everything we see. However, human color memory is not very reliable.

Have you ever gone to the Paint Store and tried to choose a color from "color samples" that will match the color your couch or curtains, from memory? How did that work out for you? Even looking at two colors across the room from each other to see if they match is often futile. To compare colors, you need to look at them together, side-by-side, in a neutral environment… preferably under controlled lighting conditions.

Take "white", for example. Magazine pages, newspapers, and printer paper are all white, but if you lay them side-by-side, you’ll see that each "white" is actually quite different. The newsprint will appear more yellow, and next to the newspaper the printer paper will probably look even brighter than you originally thought. Whites look alike unless we have a point of reference to change our impression.

Conversely, the same white sheet of paper viewed under different light sources with different color temperatures and intensities (bright sunlight vs. a tungsten bulb for instance) will be perceived as a different "color" or "shade of white". However, your brain can easily fool your eyes into seeing the same shade of white in both cases. That's because your brain knows what color the paper should be and can compensate for the effect of the lighting and trick your eyes into actually seeing the same white.

This feature of the visual system is also known as "chromatic adaptation", or "color constancy". Chromatic adaptation is the human visual system’s ability to adjust to changes in illumination in order to preserve the appearance of object colors despite the wide variation of light which might be reflected from an object and observed by our eyes.

Here’s a cool optical illusion from R. Beau Lotto (labofmisfits.com) that illustrates how our color memory can completely change the appearance of a color. The center squares on the top and front side of the cube look pretty different – orange on the front, brown on the top, right?




But when you "mask" the rest of the squares, you can see the two are actually identical.



That’s because our brain subconsciously factors in the light source and mentally corrects the color on the front of the cube as shadowed. Amazing isn’t it?

White Balance and Color Temperature

To understand the concept of White Balance, you need to first understand the concept of Color Temperature.

Color temperature is a characteristic of visible light. It provides a method of describing these characteristics and is measured in Kelvin (K). A light having a higher color temperature will have more blue light or larger Kelvin value as compared to a light with a lower color temperature, which has a smaller Kelvin value.

5000K produces roughly neutral light, whereas 3000K and 9000K produce light spectrums which shift to contain more orange and blue wavelengths, respectively. As the color temperature rises, the color distribution becomes cooler. This may not seem intuitive, but results from the fact that shorter wavelengths contain light of higher energy.



You must have noticed some photos turn out with an orange/yellow cast if shot under a tungsten bulb (a normal household incandescent bulb) or a bluish cast if shot under fluorescent lights. This occurs because each source of light possesses a different color temperature.

In a photo taken under the midday sun there is the whole spectrum of light (which makes up "white" sunlight). Under these conditions, the colors in an image appear nearest to the "true" colors.

An image taken under tungsten lighting, without adjusting the digital camera for white balance, produces the dull orange shade as it spreads the biased light. Similarly, an image taken under the fluorescent lighting produces a brighter bluish cast. Capturing accurate colors with a camera starts with proper White Balance. Setting the white balance will tell the camera what white really is, so it can capture the correct colors based on the light source.

"White Balance" Settings

As I mentioned in my "Picture Settings Guide", Color Temperature (or the temperature of "white") refers to the color of the light source that's being displayed on your screen. Generally speaking, the "Cool" settings are more suited for viewing in a brightly-lit room whereas the "Warm" settings are more suited for viewing in a dimly-lit room.

The "White Balance" setting on the TV is used to make more precise adjustments to the color temperature of the picture in order to make white objects look white and the overall picture appear natural. It changes the overall mixture of colors in an image and is used for "color correction" in order to provide a neutral shade of white and make colors appear pleasing and as accurate as possible.

In other words, adjusting the "White Balance" of an image removes unrealistic color casts, so that objects which appear white in person are rendered white on your screen. However these values cannot be accurately adjusted "by eye". Even the best trained eye cannot determine if the values are near 6500K as our eyes cannot accurately detect differences in the luminance of bright images such as white.

The ability of the display to do this all the way from darkest gray to the brightest white is called "Grayscale Tracking", which is just White Balance at multiple levels of image intensity. It has to be purely black or white or a shade of grey in between. This greatly improves your display's ability to not only produce black and white accurately, but every other color in between. If the display can't do this well, then all of the colors will look very unnatural.

In order to properly calibrate your TV’s "White Balance", you need to optimize the red, green and blue scales at each level of brightness along the black/white spectrum (grayscale). However, properly adjusting these values requires using expensive calibration instruments and software. Therefore, unless you are professionally calibrating your TV, you should leave these adjustments alone.

Most Accurate Picture Mode and Color Tone

Most TV "experts" and professional TV calibrators agree that the most accurate picture mode 'out of the box' is the "Movie" mode - that is to say, it is the mode that will bring you closest to a properly calibrated display.

Additionally, according to the "experts", you should also set the "Color Tone" setting to one of the "Warm" settings ("Warm 2" usually being the most accurate). Why? Because it is the setting that will bring the image closest to the recommended D65 television standard.

In order for your TV to adhere to the director's vision, it needs to reproduce white as closely as possible to the ISF recommended D65 (Daylight 6500K) which is similar to ambient daylight at midday (on a cloudy day). D65 is the standard used throughout the film and TV world.

If you have been conditioned to seeing a cooler/bluer, more dynamic picture, the "Movie" mode and a "Warm" Color Tone will appear far too "red" or "yellow" and too dim at first (cooler/bluer colors appear brighter than warmer/redder ones). However give it a few days for your eyes and brain to adjust to the new more accurate settings (trust me, they will). After a few days, if you go back to one of the more "dynamic" modes and a "cooler" Color Tone, you’ll notice that the picture will appear far too bright and too blue.

Now all that said, it does come back to a matter of personal preference. In the end, it's your TV and your eyes, so adjust it the way you want.



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post #9565 of 10358 Old 02-03-2017, 06:13 PM
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Unpairing Bluetooth

I am also having problems unpairing a bluetooth keyboard. I mostly use it with my computer and can't pair with my computer when TV always connects first. If anyone finds a way to unpair bluetooth permanently please let us know. Many thanks to all the useful posters for the myriad of information I have utilized.
Cheers.
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post #9566 of 10358 Old 02-05-2017, 12:28 AM
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Question: Which 4K Blu-Ray player will work with the older NON-HDR 4K TV's such as a UJU7000 40" (purchased July 2015)? I purchased a XBOX One-S and it will not lock into the correct video mode for the TV which gives me an on screen "Format Not Supported" error or a 'White Snow' screen while trying to play a 4K BluRay from the XB1S and have tried doing a factory reset of the TV. (and yes it has the latest Samsung and Microsoft soft/firmware updates), Netflix, Amazon and Stored harddrive 4K movies playback just fine.... but since "Mgo" became FandagoNOW it seems that they no longer support Paramount movies in 4K.
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post #9567 of 10358 Old 02-05-2017, 02:59 AM
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Question: Which 4K Blu-Ray player will work with the older NON-HDR 4K TV's such as a UJU7000 40" (purchased July 2015)? I purchased a XBOX One-S and it will not lock into the correct video mode for the TV which gives me an on screen "Format Not Supported" error or a 'White Snow' screen while trying to play a 4K BluRay from the XB1S and have tried doing a factory reset of the TV. (and yes it has the latest Samsung and Microsoft soft/firmware updates), Netflix, Amazon and Stored harddrive 4K movies playback just fine.... but since "Mgo" became FandagoNOW it seems that they no longer support Paramount movies in 4K.

The Xbox One S works perfectly with my set and HDR does work.

Are you using the original HDMI cable from the xbox? Are you sure you enabled HDR and 4K in the xbox settings and did you enable UHD colour on the TV set?


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post #9568 of 10358 Old 02-05-2017, 03:53 AM
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Factory Setting

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Originally Posted by Bouncernl90 View Post
The Xbox One S works perfectly with my set and HDR does work.

Are you using the original HDMI cable from the xbox? Are you sure you enabled HDR and 4K in the xbox settings and did you enable UHD colour on the TV set?


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The TV is set at the Factory Default Setting (I don't see a setting for UHD color) and the XB1S is set for 4K but the HDR is unchecked.

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post #9569 of 10358 Old 02-05-2017, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidEC View Post
The TV is set at the Factory Default Setting (I don't see a setting for UHD color) and the XB1S is set for 4K but the HDR is unchecked.

David
Menu->Picture->Picture Options->HDMI UHD Color->Select the HDMI Port the Xbox One S is connected to, change to On, reboot the TV. Then check the video output settings on the Xbox One S to make sure it recognizes 4K, HDR, etc.
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post #9570 of 10358 Old 02-05-2017, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mitch079 View Post
Menu->Picture->Picture Options->HDMI UHD Color->Select the HDMI Port the Xbox One S is connected to, change to On, reboot the TV. Then check the video output settings on the Xbox One S to make sure it recognizes 4K, HDR, etc.
Mitch:
Thanks!
I did not know about that setting, will not be able to test it till Wed, but is there anything wrong with changing all four inputs to the UHD setting?
I kind of thought that the UHD would be set on default!
I will let you know how things work out after trying it (I hope Wed, but there are a number of factors that may not allow be time to ''play'' with my setup!)
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