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post #10021 of 10393 Old 12-05-2017, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ds12345 View Post
Hi guys,

I installed LED strips on my Samsung JU7100 TV via the USB port on the back panel. Initially, I powered on the TV to see if the LED lights were working and had no issues. Then I unplugged the TV in order to remount and connect all the wires. After replugging and setting up all the wires, the TV screen wouldn't turn on. The standby red LED light on the TV works, but I get 5 blinking red LED lights when I try to turn on the TV. I opened up the back panel of the TV to look for any fuses and I couldn't find any. I would upload pictures, but my post count isn't high enough yet.

Any ideas what went wrong?
Mine (two of these) use 'USB' strictly for operating a switch for turning LED Bias Lighting on/off with TV. Power for strips is provided by a wall-plug transformer providing 1 Amp of 12 Volt power supply.

Typical USB power available is less than half of that, are you powering your LED's from USB? And if so, what are power requirements for them and which USB port are you using ? (ie USB-3 ? {blue bar}).

From your question, I would begin with a careful confirmation of "replugging and setting up all the wires" and "standby red LED light on the TV works, but I get 5 blinking red LED lights when I try to turn on the TV" is it the 'standby' LED doing the blinking?

Are your LED Strips still working?

Never heard of such as issue.
Art
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post #10022 of 10393 Old 12-05-2017, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ds12345 View Post
Hi guys,

I installed LED strips on my Samsung JU7100 TV via the USB port on the back panel. Initially, I powered on the TV to see if the LED lights were working and had no issues. Then I unplugged the TV in order to remount and connect all the wires. After replugging and setting up all the wires, the TV screen wouldn't turn on. The standby red LED light on the TV works, but I get 5 blinking red LED lights when I try to turn on the TV. I opened up the back panel of the TV to look for any fuses and I couldn't find any. I would upload pictures, but my post count isn't high enough yet.

Any ideas what went wrong?
Standard USB 2.0 specification is only 500 mA of current, and not every device supports the full power spec. The USB 3.0 spec only increases that to 900 mA. My guess is your strips are drawing too much and some sort of overload circuitry has kicked in. I wouldn't use the TV's USB port for that purpose.
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Samsung JU7100 and NU7100 4K TVs, Yamaha RX-V583, Nvidia Shield, a number of Roku players and TVs, Windows 10 media server with Serviio and Plex. Other players and TVs as well.
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post #10023 of 10393 Old 12-05-2017, 12:10 PM
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@ds12345 to expound on post above; 500 Ma = 1/2 an Amp and USB power is at 5 Volts.

In terms of power consumption; my 12 Volts x 1 Amp = 12 Watts
and the USB's 5 Volts x .5 Amp = 2.5 Watts (USB-3 {.9x5=4.5} Watts maximum).

I guessed "less than half" and its more like 1/5 (21% - 38%) of the power supplied.
Art

Last edited by pilotart; 12-05-2017 at 12:24 PM.
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post #10024 of 10393 Old 12-05-2017, 01:03 PM
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Nice explanation Pilot. I won't give you a delay vector for that.

Dan
Samsung JU7100 and NU7100 4K TVs, Yamaha RX-V583, Nvidia Shield, a number of Roku players and TVs, Windows 10 media server with Serviio and Plex. Other players and TVs as well.
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post #10025 of 10393 Old 12-05-2017, 04:36 PM
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My LED strips don't work when directly plugged into the TV USB port, but still work with alternative power sources. I used the back panel USB 3.0 camera port to power the LED strips.

I used these LED strips from Amazon: SPE Bias Lighting for HDTV (78-inch, 60 LED, Multi-Color RGB) - USB LED Backlight Strip with Dimmer for Flat Screen TV LCD, Desktop Monitors
Apparently the strips are safeguarded for TVs: "Prevent damaged USB ports and TV malfunctions with SPE regulated bias lighting strips. Safely regulated below the TV USB standard of 5V 500mA. Check your TV’s USB Port rating before purchasing!"

I used these connectors to cut and splice longer LED strips: LEORX LED Strip Connector 5050 LED Connector 10mm LED RGB Connector L-shape (5 pcs)

Could the fact that I cut and made the strips longer have an effect?
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post #10026 of 10393 Old 12-05-2017, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ds12345 View Post
My LED strips don't work when directly plugged into the TV USB port, but still work with alternative power sources. I used the back panel USB 3.0 camera port to power the LED strips.

I used these LED strips from Amazon: SPE Bias Lighting for HDTV (78-inch, 60 LED, Multi-Color RGB) - USB LED Backlight Strip with Dimmer for Flat Screen TV LCD, Desktop Monitors
Apparently the strips are safeguarded for TVs: "Prevent damaged USB ports and TV malfunctions with SPE regulated bias lighting strips. Safely regulated below the TV USB standard of 5V 500mA. Check your TV’s USB Port rating before purchasing!"

I used these connectors to cut and splice longer LED strips: LEORX LED Strip Connector 5050 LED Connector 10mm LED RGB Connector L-shape (5 pcs)

Could the fact that I cut and made the strips longer have an effect?
I've called some repair services and from what I've gathered it could be a main board issue. If the main board needs to be replaced, can I do the repair myself? Would it require any soldering?
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post #10027 of 10393 Old 12-06-2017, 03:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ds12345 View Post

Could the fact that I cut and made the strips longer have an effect?
By making the strips longer, you have increased their power draw, most likely now exceeding the 500 mA rating.

I doubt any soldering would be required. I watched a tech replace the motherboard on a HU8500, and it was all just plug in. But make sure you're comfortable working around electronic devices. Protect yourself from static discharge, and be really sure you know what you're doing.

I don't think you ever said: does the TV work if you unplug the lights?
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post #10028 of 10393 Old 12-07-2017, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atc98092 View Post
By making the strips longer, you have increased their power draw, most likely now exceeding the 500 mA rating.

I doubt any soldering would be required. I watched a tech replace the motherboard on a HU8500, and it was all just plug in. But make sure you're comfortable working around electronic devices. Protect yourself from static discharge, and be really sure you know what you're doing.

I don't think you ever said: does the TV work if you unplug the lights?
So I ended up having the main board replaced as a result of the LEDs shorting the old one. I also had to get one of the components on the power supply replaced as result of overheating.
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post #10029 of 10393 Old 12-07-2017, 09:41 PM
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I just noticed some dead pixels on the top left of my screen. I'm not exactly sure what type of screen damage it is. I got the TV repaired from professionals.

https://imgur.com/a/isS5U
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post #10030 of 10393 Old 12-10-2017, 03:12 PM
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Anyway to get into service menu and enable day and night slots with the default remote?
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post #10031 of 10393 Old 12-12-2017, 01:54 PM
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I have the option of buying the samsung 82 uncgmu8000 for $3300 or the JU7100 85 inch for $3700. The price doesn't make a difference to me at this point between the two. Which is the better set?
Mu8000 is newer, but i do like the 3 extra inches.

any suggestions?
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post #10032 of 10393 Old 12-20-2017, 01:43 PM
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8 Bit? 10 Bit?

New June 2017 upgrade of an old favorite, but updated. Now my JU7100 does show it to be 10 Bit, versus no clue on the old program.

Monitor Asset Manager 2.9

http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/moninfo.shtm

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post #10033 of 10393 Old 12-22-2017, 02:45 PM
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Merry Christmas!

Many Thanks, particularly to wildgator25 and p5browne, for the many, very helpful postings to this forum throughout all of 2017.

Because of these gentlemen & others here, my "7100" is not only Up-To-Date, FW-wise .......but 'sparkles' in reliably delivering both HD 1080p AND UHD 2160p content!!

Happy New Year, Too!!!

Stan
San Diego, CA
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1_Samsung UN85JU7100 [TS01] fw1540.3 (wo JS Mod) & PBrowne's \WG's Cal's/ Sony DA5800ES/ 9.2 ch Definitive Technology/ PCH C-300
/Oppo 203/ USB HD's //// 2_Samsung UN60F8000/ Sony DA5400ES/ 7.1 ch Definitive Technology/ PCH C-300/ USB HD's
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post #10034 of 10393 Old 12-22-2017, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanhere View Post
Merry Christmas!

Many Thanks, particularly to wildgator25 and p5browne, for the many, very helpful postings to this forum throughout all of 2017.

Because of these gentlemen & others here, my "7100" is not only Up-To-Date, FW-wise .......but 'sparkles' in reliably delivering both HD 1080p AND UHD 2160p content!!

Happy New Year, Too!!!

Stan
San Diego, CA
You are very welcome stanhere!

For those who sent/send me private messages on here, I apologize that I have not read them. I have been quite busy with job relocation.

If anyone needs any help, please let me know by replying on this thread that you have sent me a message so that I can log in and check.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone!
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post #10035 of 10393 Old 12-29-2017, 10:59 PM
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Anyone know if the JU7100 can display signals carrying the HLG Hybrid Log Gamma feature? I just bought a Sony PXW-Z90 video camera that has this form of HDR, but not sure if there is anything I can do to view or test the feature.

Paul
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post #10036 of 10393 Old 12-30-2017, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
Anyone know if the JU7100 can display signals carrying the HLG Hybrid Log Gamma feature? I just bought a Sony PXW-Z90 video camera that has this form of HDR, but not sure if there is anything I can do to view or test the feature.

Paul
The only HDR type that I've ever heard this TV can decode is HDR10.
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post #10037 of 10393 Old 01-01-2018, 07:23 PM
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Ok, so I've had this TV for over a year now. Love it. And am I correct in that this TV now supports HDR with a firmware from September 15? How would I know for sure? When using the Sony UBP-X800 player and playing a 4K blu-ray, it does show a 4K/60p at HDR when I hit the "Display" button.

And what would you recommend for the sharpness level?

Right now I'm using:

Picture Mode: Dynamic
Backlight: 15
Contrast: 100 (I've always liked it at 100)
Color: 52
Sharpness: 20-30
Backlight: 15
Brightness: 38
Tint: 50/50

UHD color is set to "on" as well.

All the other stuff is off.
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post #10038 of 10393 Old 01-02-2018, 06:07 AM
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When HDR is sensed in the metadata of the content (and it is a format it understands) the backlight will max out to 20. So play something you know has HDR and then go into Menu->Picture and you should see it. I don't have a recommendation on the sharpness - it feels subjective to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by damanedmonds View Post
Ok, so I've had this TV for over a year now. Love it. And am I correct in that this TV now supports HDR with a firmware from September 15? How would I know for sure? When using the Sony UBP-X800 player and playing a 4K blu-ray, it does show a 4K/60p at HDR when I hit the "Display" button.

And what would you recommend for the sharpness level?

Right now I'm using:

Picture Mode: Dynamic
Backlight: 15
Contrast: 100 (I've always liked it at 100)
Color: 52
Sharpness: 20-30
Backlight: 15
Brightness: 38
Tint: 50/50

UHD color is set to "on" as well.

All the other stuff is off.
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post #10039 of 10393 Old 01-02-2018, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ml2517 View Post
When HDR is sensed in the metadata of the content (and it is a format it understands) the backlight will max out to 20. So play something you know has HDR and then go into Menu->Picture and you should see it. I don't have a recommendation on the sharpness - it feels subjective to me.
Thank you for the tip! I played the T2 4K Blu-ray and noticed my backlight did max out at 20!
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post #10040 of 10393 Old 01-03-2018, 01:25 PM
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Note the following:

# 1 - ONLY the USB Input has 2 sets of settings for HDR and SDR.
# 2 - HDMI, calibrating the 2 Point for HDR, they will remain for SDR as well. Only one set of settings. I usually leave my 4K Inputs on the HDR 2 Point, and the 1080P on the SDR 2 Point settings.
# 3 - Will Samsung fix this ?

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post #10041 of 10393 Old 01-04-2018, 03:35 PM
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I just got done watching an episode of Stranger Things that is now streamed in HDR via the native Netflix app and boy, it was extremely dark. Even using the dynamic mode with 100 contrast didn't help with the dark scenes. You can hardly make out whats happening in there.

I just don't know why people love this TV so much. It has been nothing but the pain in the rear from day 1. Network connectivity issues, slow leggy interface etc. I have the 65" version which is supposed to be manufactured in s. korea but according to the serial number it was made in mexico.

I am seriously thinking about dumping (selling) this TV. What do you think I can get it for?
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post #10042 of 10393 Old 01-06-2018, 04:00 PM
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musaji...the JU7100 HDR is basically a remapping of perhaps a 100 cd/m effective, with the HDR highlights then stretched out to the max 350cd/m or so maximum achievable brightness of the panel. I typically watch my TV at backlight of 5 (100 cd/m), and when watching HDR, the backlight raises to 20, but unless there is extreme bright parts of a scene, the overall picture is similar to backlight of 5. The most annoying aspect of this HDR stretch attempt is that black levels at backlight 20 are horrible...it's like looking at an old TFT or ISP computer monitor, with black letterboxing and such glowing...a full black screen emits enough illumination to see my room if it was pitch black at night.

I am caibrated for SDR, and my settings with my Xrite come to

Backlight 5
Contrast 96
Brightness 44

I did a custom color space, and best DE was at Color 55

My calibration requires gamma at -2 (negative 2) to achieve 2.2, otherwise, the JU7100's stock gamma after calibration is 2.0.

As for why does everyone love the JU7100? It is very slow, the apps take forever, but no one makes a 120Hz 40" 4K set anymore. My next TV will be whatever comes out in 40" that is 120Hz, and it will obviously have much better HDR and black levels! If I could be far enough away fro a 65", I would buy a top of the line LG OLED, but alas, I am distance/space limited. :-(

Paul
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post #10043 of 10393 Old 01-10-2018, 09:39 AM
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issue

I have the following
- xbox one s (connected directly to my TV
- xbox clearly shows that it is sending 4K with HDR to TV (i see that in settings)
- TV is samsung un75ju7100 (this tv supports HDR)
- TV's UHD color option is set to on
- TV's picture mode is dynamic

Yet: Look at the UHD bluray screenshot which is so washed out.
And compare that to the RIP'ed 10 bit HDR MKV version, where the colors just pop! (this image is the one with the subtitles)

Every other UHD HDR disc, like planet earth 2, is absolutely amazing.
Only Life of Pi is bad.




Did i miss something in my configuration?
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post #10044 of 10393 Old 01-11-2018, 11:10 PM
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My personal preference is I like the darker boat better as you see more details on the boat and looks more realistic. The one with the subtitles looks like someone took an opened can of orange paint and threw it at the front of the boat.
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post #10045 of 10393 Old 01-12-2018, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitch079 View Post
My personal preference is I like the darker boat better as you see more details on the boat and looks more realistic. The one with the subtitles looks like someone took an opened can of orange paint and threw it at the front of the boat.
You are right. I should be concentrating on detail and not color. Thanks, does make sense.
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post #10046 of 10393 Old 01-15-2018, 01:02 PM
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Anyone able to help with issues I just started having with my Samsung UN65JU7100FXZA with IH02 version? Seems to have happened after trying to launch the web browser or Starz app or a few days after I messed with the speaker list / AnyNet+ setting or maybe the software version updated and now has an issue? It's like it is a software bug where a bunch of things don't work.


1) TV stuck on mute, can use volume buttons on remote or TV to change volume up/down but it just reverts back to same volume setting and stays muted
2) Starz app cannot be deleted b/c it says its a main app, reinstall gives error 107 for cannot download
3) Cannot log-in to Samsung ID it gives a server error
4) All apps either get stuck in launch or launch but can't play anything - Netflix gives error tq-pb-101
5) Factory reset through menu or by unplugging TV or switching circuit breaker off doesn't fix anything - seems like TV does not really reset or clear out as I still have all my channels, settings, etc.
6) Resetting TV or unplugging the TV volume works and you can change channels but if you click mute or try to select anything with the remote buttons it doesn't work or goes to mute and gets stuck.


Luckily I have squaretrade extended warranty from Amazon purchase but think they will try to replace the motherboard and then if that doesn't work replace TV. I called Samsung and they couldn't troubleshoot either. Anything else I'm missing? What caused this? Could it be anything from receiver, speaker settings, USB led backlights plugged in, or anything?


Also, how do I get to the secret service menu? I tried various ways but my remote doesn't have most of the buttons and using a Samsung phone with remote IR blaster didn't work either (power, mute, menu, 182 or whatever)
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post #10047 of 10393 Old 01-15-2018, 02:32 PM
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AnyNet+ setting - try turning it off. Leave set unplugged overnight.

You don't have a Samsung Remote from another TV, or possibly a Samsung Blue-ray player that does dual duty?
Different places, different codes for the Service Menu. NA Code - From Off > Mute > 1 > 8 > 2 > Power On

UN65KS9800 - Mine
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UN55NU8000 X 2 - my 2 kids families (or should I say adults?)
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post #10048 of 10393 Old 01-15-2018, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
AnyNet+ setting - try turning it off. Leave set unplugged overnight.

You don't have a Samsung Remote from another TV, or possibly a Samsung Blue-ray player that does dual duty?
Different places, different codes for the Service Menu. NA Code - From Off > Mute > 1 > 8 > 2 > Power On

Thanks - I was able to use a different Samsung TV remote to enter service menu. Should I do anything in the menu - factory reset?


In regular menu I reset Smarthub and it said i'd lose all apps/settings and reset TV but I still have all my apps and nothing changed. When I go to disable AnyNet+ and select "off" it still stays "on".


And now my original remote does not work except for the power on and power off button. I changed batteries and still same thing. Sometimes when I'd do the reset it would show an animation in lower left that remote was connecting to TV or something but now after reset it does not.


What is going on? Should I do factory reset in the service menu or change anything else to try and troubleshoot? It's like the software just got really confused/buggy and TV broke for no reason.
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post #10049 of 10393 Old 01-15-2018, 05:50 PM
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Thanks - I was able to use a different Samsung TV remote to enter service menu. Should I do anything in the menu - factory reset?


In regular menu I reset Smarthub and it said i'd lose all apps/settings and reset TV but I still have all my apps and nothing changed. When I go to disable AnyNet+ and select "off" it still stays "on".


And now my original remote does not work except for the power on and power off button. I changed batteries and still same thing. Sometimes when I'd do the reset it would show an animation in lower left that remote was connecting to TV or something but now after reset it does not.


What is going on? Should I do factory reset in the service menu or change anything else to try and troubleshoot? It's like the software just got really confused/buggy and TV broke for no reason.


I was able to manually re-pair the remote so that is fixed. But yeah, seems like menu reset and smart hub reset and changing settings to try to turn off anynet+ or volume or mute nothing seems to really do anything.


Factory reset in service menu or anything else I should try or just wait for them to replace motherboard?
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post #10050 of 10393 Old 01-20-2018, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dilipb View Post
Finally got a xbox one s and connected directly to the TV and configured it the right way.
I was glad to see that the Xbox reported that my un75ju7100 supports HDR etc.
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How do the games look? Can you post your settings. I'm convinced i dont have the proper settings

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4k tv , JU7100 , samsumg , Samsung , uhd

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