**OFFICIAL** 2015 Samsung 4K SUHD JS8500 Series TV Thread - Page 484 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14491 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by prme19 View Post
Ok. Let me tell you my experience with antec bias light kits.
Firstly, if you have to mount the TV, you'll need at least 2 kits to be able to light the whole TV. Don't worry it won't be the same as Pandaphunk's, since his set is on a stand so the light is more spread out.
Secondly, if you're only going to put 2 kits for just the top and bottom and none on the sides, the light won't be enough or even around the edges of the TV. It will look like 2 oval shaped lights behind your TV (top and bottom).

So, what I did with mine is I wrapped te 2 kits around the TV, so that the light just shines the edges.
So you use 2 Antec Kits?

I'm confused about you statement of wrapping the 2 kits around the TV. Are you saying that 2 Antec kits are sufficient in length to travel the circumference of the 65" TV?

I'll might just go with the other biased light kit for simplicity. The only think I dont like about the other kit is the short length of the power cord. My wires will be run behind the wall so I'll probably need an extension cord ran up behind the wall to plug in the light kit.
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post #14492 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 07:17 PM
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Could you guys check my settings to make sure everything is set up properly? New AVR is a Denon X2200W and I want the tv to do the upscaling.
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post #14493 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jstang12 View Post
Could you guys check my settings to make sure everything is set up properly? New AVR is a Denon X2200W and I want the tv to do the upscaling.
Unfortunately sometimes I cant load thumbnail images for some reason and this was one of those times. I have the same AVR and could have checked for you but alas I cannot.

Edit: I was able to view your images in a different browser although with difficulty. Your settings look good for the most part. You have video conversion off and pass through on.
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post #14494 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 311taking View Post
ok and my smart led is at standard and i blieve color he showed me the rainbow color scale and where i was on it and it seem to line up very well but the blacks are just awful and picture is washed out as i said i change it to netural instead of movie and i feel it looks so much better
Looks like brightness and 10pt white balance should be readjusted.

my JS8500 movie calibration settings as of 8/8/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post34495410
my JS8500 standard calibration settings as of 6/18/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post35124130
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post #14495 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jstang12 View Post
Could you guys check my settings to make sure everything is set up properly? New AVR is a Denon X2200W and I want the tv to do the upscaling.

Seems good to me, maybe just change Video Mode from AUTO to OFF.

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post #14496 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by prme19 View Post
Looks like brightness and 10pt white balance should be readjusted.
ok thank youvery much i saw another users settings im going to try them
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post #14497 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by OrlandoD View Post
So you use 2 Antec Kits?

I'm confused about you statement of wrapping the 2 kits around the TV. Are you saying that 2 Antec kits are sufficient in length to travel the circumference of the 65" TV?

I'll might just go with the other biased light kit for simplicity. The only think I dont like about the other kit is the short length of the power cord. My wires will be run behind the wall so I'll probably need an extension cord ran up behind the wall to plug in the light kit.
Yes, I use 2 kits. I wrapped it around the tv about 3 inches from the edges. They pretty much cover everything except the bottom center, which I left unlit because I have the center speaker mounted underneath the tv and I don't want the light to cast shadows around it.

The antec kits are USB powered so you can just plug it in on the USB port on the back of the tv.
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my JS8500 movie calibration settings as of 8/8/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post34495410
my JS8500 standard calibration settings as of 6/18/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post35124130
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post #14498 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mc_avs View Post
Seems good to me, maybe just change Video Mode from AUTO to OFF.
The only options for video mode are auto, game, movie.
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post #14499 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrlandoD View Post
So you use 2 Antec Kits?

I'm confused about you statement of wrapping the 2 kits around the TV. Are you saying that 2 Antec kits are sufficient in length to travel the circumference of the 65" TV?

I'll might just go with the other biased light kit for simplicity. The only think I dont like about the other kit is the short length of the power cord. My wires will be run behind the wall so I'll probably need an extension cord ran up behind the wall to plug in the light kit.
He bought two antec kits, one to wrap on the left side and one for the right. He set them up the in a "U" formation, with the "U" facing each other Here is a rudimentary diagram:

[ ]

He then connected the two kits via a usb hub which is connected to the usb in the back of the tv. They turn on and off when the tv is on/off.

EDIT: well the diagram didnt come out as I hoped, but just imagine two U's facing each other.
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Last edited by the5rivers; 02-08-2016 at 07:35 PM.
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post #14500 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by the5rivers View Post
He bought two antec kits, one to wrap on the left side and one for the right. He set them up the in a "U" formation, with the "U" facing each other Here is a rudimentary diagram:

[ ]

He then connected the two kits via a usb hub which is connected to the usb in the back of the tv. They turn on and off when the tv is on/off.

EDIT: well the diagram didnt come out as I hoped, but just imagine two U's facing each other.
Yes. The top ends meet while there's a little more gap in between the 2 bottom ends as I explained on the previous post.

my JS8500 movie calibration settings as of 8/8/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post34495410
my JS8500 standard calibration settings as of 6/18/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post35124130
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post #14501 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jstang12 View Post
The only options for video mode are auto, game, movie.
I can confirm that. I leave mine on Auto I think.
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post #14502 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jstang12 View Post
The only options for video mode are auto, game, movie.

Ok cool, you're all set then mate. Most of them have an off function aswell but that one doesn't & you have it set to Auto with is the logical thing to do.

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post #14503 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by prme19 View Post
Yes. The top ends meet while there's a little more gap in between the 2 bottom ends as I explained on the previous post.
That could work. I like the Antec kit because it's USB powered. My idea was to plug them into a USB power adapter and then plug that USB power adapter into a remote operated power outlet. I don't want the biased lights on all the time my TV is on like during the day and I'm too lazy to fart with the power switches behind the TV.

The Antec kit also has longer power cords which is good. The other kit has an optional dimmer which might be necessary (overly bright) but add to the cost. So I assume the 2 Antecs have the right amount of brightness?

Amazon seems to run out of stock with the Antecs quite often too.

So it's a matter of making a choice.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018MTOCKY/...FGTIUGZY&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TG5EG8/...I2A4OUJX4C93X5

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post #14504 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by OrlandoD View Post
That could work. I like the Antec kit because it's USB powered. My idea was to plug them into a USB power adapter and then plug that USB power adapter into a remote operated power outlet. I don't want the biased lights on all the time my TV is on like during the day and I'm too lazy to fart with the power switches behind the TV.

The Antec kit also has longer power cords which is good. The other kit has an optional dimmer which might be necessary (overly bright) but add to the cost. So I assume the 2 Antecs have the right amount of brightness?

Amazon seems to run out of stock with the Antecs quite often too.

So it's a matter of making a choice.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018MTOCKY/...FGTIUGZY&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TG5EG8/...I2A4OUJX4C93X5

Go antec. They are easy to set up and install, good quality and decent led output.
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post #14505 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 08:22 PM
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Go antec. They are easy to set up, good quality, decent led output, and easy to install.
Well I've always been a big fan and user of Antec PC cases.
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post #14506 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by prme19 View Post
Menu>Picture>Apply Picture Mode>All Sources
That's weird, I thought that was just for applying the settings to other inputs.
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post #14507 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 08:57 PM
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ok thank youvery much i saw another users settings im going to try them
that 10pt looks borderline nuts. do you know what tools the calibrator was using?

try the settings from the first post in this thread, let us know how it went.
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post #14508 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by denpom View Post
that 10pt looks borderline nuts. do you know what tools the calibrator was using?

try the settings from the first post in this thread, let us know how it went.
I got a Best Buy calibration many years ago. It looked awful. They do not know what they are doing.
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post #14509 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 09:38 PM
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So I've been spending some time with the TV yesterday and this evening. I was tied up earlier today with my PC stuck in a reboot loop after running Windows update, so that took up my afternoon. That's why I didn't post earlier. Still haven't figured out what happened but right now I can't update my PC.

So here are my initial impressions and feelings towards my set. I'm going to underline a couple things that I could use a bit of advice on.

Firstly, in terms of the usual things to watch for with this set:

- bezel/plastic strip being lifted outwards: Nope - looks perfect on all 4 corners.

- flashlighting: Zero! Not a hint of light from any of the 4 corners. Zero edge bleed. This is with Smart LED off, so it's not just being hidden - there is no light leak at all that I can see, even in a totally dark room.

- clouding: Here's where things get interesting. Yes, there is clouding. With Smart LED off, I see 6-7 clumps of clouding, which are very easy to see in a dark room on a black test screen. A few clumps are more pronounced than others. Most are in the upper-central part of the panel. With some test footage from a film playing a very dark indoor scene, and also a space scene with just stars and a small spaceship in the shot, the clouding is noticeable during the scenes. As my eyes adjust to the darkness, the clouding becomes more apparent. I would not want to keep a set with clouding like that, visible during dark content. But, as soon as I enable Smart LED, the clouding is absolutely gone. Even on a black test screen, the clouding is completely gone when Smart LED is enabled. During end credits, clouding is visible with Smart LED off, but eliminated with it enabled. Both low and standard seem to be just as effective at eliminating (hiding) the clouding. Not a hint of light anywhere on the panel. I couldn't ask for a better-looking panel, once Smart LED is enabled. With it switched off, the clouding immediately appears again. It's a dramatic difference. Without the option of Smart LED, I would not be happy with the panel. With it on, it's like magic. Like the old question, if a tree falls in the forest and nobody is there to hear it, does it make a sound? Well, yes it does, but since nobody hears it, does it matter? In this case, if there's clouding on the panel but I can't see, is it still there? I guess it doesn't matter as long as Smart LED keeps it hidden, right?

- dead pixels: I think I may have 1 dead pixel. It's so tiny of course I can't be sure - but during various greyscale and color slides, that one pixel is always a light grey in appearance. It displays no color in any color slide - it's always light grey. When the panel is displaying black in that area, it can't be seen - it's not white, nor grey - it's invisible when the panel is displaying black in that area. But when it's any other color, it stands out as light greyish in color. Here's the thing - it's in the extreme bottom-left corner - about 1/2 inch from the left and 3/4 of an inch from the bottom. If there's a dead pixel, that's the place to have it I would say. Much better than being in the middle of the panel. From a foot away from the screen I can see it if I look for it, but I have to look. From my couch around 10 feet away, it's impossible to see of course. So I'm leaning heavily towards ignoring it. I hate knowing I have a dead pixel, but I could get an exchange and have 2 more dead pixels in the middle of the screen next time. I wonder how many in here may have 1 or 2 and not even know it? They're tiny on this panel if it is actually a dead pixel I'm looking at. Thoughts?

uniformity: Here's something that I'm confused about. If I display my greyscale slides - especially around the 30%-50% slides, the top half of the panel has lots of dark horizontal "sweeping" - like if you took a broad brush and just went back and forth across the panel sideways like on a canvas. It's very noticeable on the slides and this worries me. But like the clouding, once Smart LED is enabled, that issue is virtually gone (hidden?). Like magic, the panel looks virtually uniform across the entire panel. Just solid grey. My uniformity test slide, which is basically just a greyscale slide I believe, looks completely uniform with Smart LED on. With it off, it does show those wisps across the top half of the panel. I haven't had a chance yet to watch anything with lots of panning against solid backgrounds to see how noticeable this is with Smart LED off. With it on, I can't imagine I'd see anything wrong with the panel at all. Is this anything to worry about?

So considering all the issues these panels can have, I think I've done extremely well. Zero flashlighting, one possible dead pixel in the extreme bottom-left corner, and some clouding and weird wisps/uniformity issues, both of which are eliminated with Smart LED enabled. I'm not kidding when I say the screen looks black with a black test slide - the LEDs are on but the panel is displaying nothing but black.

I've put in both denpom's settings and prme19's, and they both appear quite similar to my eyes. Right now I've got Denpom's settings in. Prme19's 10-point didn't make much of a difference for me, at least with the limited amount of material I've tried so far. I've used the AVS calibration disc basic tests and the Disney WOW disc to tweak the contrast and brightness. I've got the backlight on 10. I watched some Twilight Zone and a few minutes of It's A Wonderful Life on blu-ray to see how black-and-white looks, and I prefer the standard color tone, at least for black and white. I know we're "supposed' to use warm2, but on my old set I used warm1, as warm2 was just too yellowish for my tastes. I feel the same with this set. I like more natural flesh tones in general, and for black and white, even warm1 has a yellowish tint that I can't get comfortable with. Standard looks ideal to me for black and white. For color, I'm not sure yet. If I switch back and forth, I still may prefer standard even with color, but I can't make up my mind on that. I know warm1 is closer to ideal studio color but skin tones look a bit warm/yellowish even on warm 1. Maybe I just need to adjust my eyes to it? I also can't figure out if I should leave gamma on 0 or move it to -1 like prme19. Other than that, I've got the settings dialed in quite nice. I'm using movie mode of course. No white clipping, no color clipping, no black crush. Dynamic Contrast on low. Black tone is off.

I used my trick to disable the screen turning off with black fades, and it worked like a charm, just like on my old set. It makes using black test screens possible, and I don't get annoyed with fades to black in films.

I haven't commented yet on the picture, and I'm trying not to use hyperbole here, but holy cow is this an amazing picture! I downloaded the clips from demo-uhd3d and loaded them onto my new thumb drive and plugged it in, and my jaw was on the floor. Anybody who says you need to be just a few feet from the screen to see the difference between 1080p and 2160p is out of their mind, because from my seating distance of roughly 10', I'm seeing detail like I've never seen on a panel before, and it's certainly not just the jump from a 46" to a 55" screen. The detail is mesmerizing in those demo clips. And then I played the HDR demos. Insane! That first shot of Life of Pi with the sun reflecting on the ocean is striking! What amazed me with the HDR clips is that even with the backlight maxed out on 20, there was zero flashlighting or clouding visible! I can't fathom anybody leaving Smart LED disabled for any reason. Yes, there can be occasional fluctuations on the letterbox bars, but the negatives are far outweighed by the positives when it comes to Smart LED.

Anyways, I knew this was going to be a big post. Sorry guys. Just wanted to cover all my thoughts so far. I need to set up game mode and 3D mode too, and I haven't played around with PC mode yet either. 3D mode is tricky to get the colors balanced because of the tinting of the glasses. Even different brands of glasses have an effect on the color you see in 3D mode. So far I feel very positive about this set. I'm still very glad I have the 90-day return policy at Costco, because I have plenty of time to get comfortable with this set, watch lots of stuff, and see how I feel about it, while keeping my eye on the new models. But honestly, I can't imagine wanting to spend another $1k on a new 2016 model - in fact I couldn't even if I wanted to - I'd have to move down to the smaller size if they even offer one this year, and even then it would cost hundreds more than this 55" set. Sure it will hit brighter nits for HDR, but every panel is a gamble, and I think I hit it lucky here.
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post #14510 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 09:44 PM
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So I've been spending some time with the TV yesterday and this evening. I was tied up earlier today with my PC stuck in a reboot loop after running Windows update, so that took up my afternoon. That's why I didn't post earlier. Still haven't figured out what happened but right now I can't update my PC....................
Good to see it worked out for you. I could only imagine what would have happened if you got the 65 inch!

I am still very surprised to see such a difference between the 55 and 65 inch versions. Seems like all the problems are with the 65 inch version. Maybe because the panel is so much bigger and it causes more problems? Who knows.

Enjoy the tv, and get on amazon and netflix and enjoy UHD.
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post #14511 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 09:46 PM
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Friggin sad....I love 3d. I hope its not true.

http://www.trustedreviews.com/news/n...samsung-and-lg
This makes me extremely sad considering I have a good collection of 3D blu-rays. It makes me regret supporting the industry by buying a shelf full of 3D titles so they can abandon it and leave me with no way to play the titles later.

I guess this makes it easy - the 2016 Samsung models aren't even an option if the JS8500 doesn't work out.

This really bums me out big time.
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post #14512 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 09:46 PM
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So I've been spending some time with the TV yesterday and this evening. I was tied up earlier today with my PC stuck in a reboot loop after running Windows update, so that took up my afternoon. That's why I didn't post earlier. Still haven't figured out what happened but right now I can't update my PC.

So here are my initial impressions and feelings towards my set. I'm going to underline a couple things that I could use a bit of advice on.

Firstly, in terms of the usual things to watch for with this set:

- bezel/plastic strip being lifted outwards: Nope - looks perfect on all 4 corners.

- flashlighting: Zero! Not a hint of light from any of the 4 corners. Zero edge bleed. This is with Smart LED off, so it's not just being hidden - there is no light leak at all that I can see, even in a totally dark room.

- clouding: Here's where things get interesting. Yes, there is clouding. With Smart LED off, I see 6-7 clumps of clouding, which are very easy to see in a dark room on a black test screen. A few clumps are more pronounced than others. Most are in the upper-central part of the panel. With some test footage from a film playing a very dark indoor scene, and also a space scene with just stars and a small spaceship in the shot, the clouding is noticeable during the scenes. As my eyes adjust to the darkness, the clouding becomes more apparent. I would not want to keep a set with clouding like that, visible during dark content. But, as soon as I enable Smart LED, the clouding is absolutely gone. Even on a black test screen, the clouding is completely gone when Smart LED is enabled. During end credits, clouding is visible with Smart LED off, but eliminated with it enabled. Both low and standard seem to be just as effective at eliminating (hiding) the clouding. Not a hint of light anywhere on the panel. I couldn't ask for a better-looking panel, once Smart LED is enabled. With it switched off, the clouding immediately appears again. It's a dramatic difference. Without the option of Smart LED, I would not be happy with the panel. With it on, it's like magic. Like the old question, if a tree falls in the forest and nobody is there to hear it, does it make a sound? Well, yes it does, but since nobody hears it, does it matter? In this case, if there's clouding on the panel but I can't see, is it still there? I guess it doesn't matter as long as Smart LED keeps it hidden, right?

- dead pixels: I think I may have 1 dead pixel. It's so tiny of course I can't be sure - but during various greyscale and color slides, that one pixel is always a light grey in appearance. It displays no color in any color slide - it's always light grey. When the panel is displaying black in that area, it can't be seen - it's not white, nor grey - it's invisible when the panel is displaying black in that area. But when it's any other color, it stands out as light greyish in color. Here's the thing - it's in the extreme bottom-left corner - about 1/2 inch from the left and 3/4 of an inch from the bottom. If there's a dead pixel, that's the place to have it I would say. Much better than being in the middle of the panel. From a foot away from the screen I can see it if I look for it, but I have to look. From my couch around 10 feet away, it's impossible to see of course. So I'm leaning heavily towards ignoring it. I hate knowing I have a dead pixel, but I could get an exchange and have 2 more dead pixels in the middle of the screen next time. I wonder how many in here may have 1 or 2 and not even know it? They're tiny on this panel if it is actually a dead pixel I'm looking at. Thoughts?

uniformity: Here's something that I'm confused about. If I display my greyscale slides - especially around the 30%-50% slides, the top half of the panel has lots of dark horizontal "sweeping" - like if you took a broad brush and just went back and forth across the panel sideways like on a canvas. It's very noticeable on the slides and this worries me. But like the clouding, once Smart LED is enabled, that issue is virtually gone (hidden?). Like magic, the panel looks virtually uniform across the entire panel. Just solid grey. My uniformity test slide, which is basically just a greyscale slide I believe, looks completely uniform with Smart LED on. With it off, it does show those wisps across the top half of the panel. I haven't had a chance yet to watch anything with lots of panning against solid backgrounds to see how noticeable this is with Smart LED off. With it on, I can't imagine I'd see anything wrong with the panel at all. Is this anything to worry about?

So considering all the issues these panels can have, I think I've done extremely well. Zero flashlighting, one possible dead pixel in the extreme bottom-left corner, and some clouding and weird wisps/uniformity issues, both of which are eliminated with Smart LED enabled. I'm not kidding when I say the screen looks black with a black test slide - the LEDs are on but the panel is displaying nothing but black.

I've put in both denpom's settings and prme19's, and they both appear quite similar to my eyes. Right now I've got Denpom's settings in. Prme19's 10-point didn't make much of a difference for me, at least with the limited amount of material I've tried so far. I've used the AVS calibration disc basic tests and the Disney WOW disc to tweak the contrast and brightness. I've got the backlight on 10. I watched some Twilight Zone and a few minutes of It's A Wonderful Life on blu-ray to see how black-and-white looks, and I prefer the standard color tone, at least for black and white. I know we're "supposed' to use warm2, but on my old set I used warm1, as warm2 was just too yellowish for my tastes. I feel the same with this set. I like more natural flesh tones in general, and for black and white, even warm1 has a yellowish tint that I can't get comfortable with. Standard looks ideal to me for black and white. For color, I'm not sure yet. If I switch back and forth, I still may prefer standard even with color, but I can't make up my mind on that. I know warm1 is closer to ideal studio color but skin tones look a bit warm/yellowish even on warm 1. Maybe I just need to adjust my eyes to it? I also can't figure out if I should leave gamma on 0 or move it to -1 like prme19. Other than that, I've got the settings dialed in quite nice. I'm using movie mode of course. No white clipping, no color clipping, no black crush. Dynamic Contrast on low. Black tone is off.

I used my trick to disable the screen turning off with black fades, and it worked like a charm, just like on my old set. It makes using black test screens possible, and I don't get annoyed with fades to black in films.

I haven't commented yet on the picture, and I'm trying not to use hyperbole here, but holy cow is this an amazing picture! I downloaded the clips from demo-uhd3d and loaded them onto my new thumb drive and plugged it in, and my jaw was on the floor. Anybody who says you need to be just a few feet from the screen to see the difference between 1080p and 2160p is out of their mind, because from my seating distance of roughly 10', I'm seeing detail like I've never seen on a panel before, and it's certainly not just the jump from a 46" to a 55" screen. The detail is mesmerizing in those demo clips. And then I played the HDR demos. Insane! That first shot of Life of Pi with the sun reflecting on the ocean is striking! What amazed me with the HDR clips is that even with the backlight maxed out on 20, there was zero flashlighting or clouding visible! I can't fathom anybody leaving Smart LED disabled for any reason. Yes, there can be occasional fluctuations on the letterbox bars, but the negatives are far outweighed by the positives when it comes to Smart LED.

Anyways, I knew this was going to be a big post. Sorry guys. Just wanted to cover all my thoughts so far. I need to set up game mode and 3D mode too, and I haven't played around with PC mode yet either. 3D mode is tricky to get the colors balanced because of the tinting of the glasses. Even different brands of glasses have an effect on the color you see in 3D mode. So far I feel very positive about this set. I'm still very glad I have the 90-day return policy at Costco, because I have plenty of time to get comfortable with this set, watch lots of stuff, and see how I feel about it, while keeping my eye on the new models. But honestly, I can't imagine wanting to spend another $1k on a new 2016 model - in fact I couldn't even if I wanted to - I'd have to move down to the smaller size if they even offer one this year, and even then it would cost hundreds more than this 55" set. Sure it will hit brighter nits for HDR, but every panel is a gamble, and I think I hit it lucky here.

& there he is!!!!!!


Glad that overall you have a pretty awesome set, congrats!!


Also, I put the Star Wars Demo on a 3.0 USB Thumb Drive & put it into the 3.0 Port & it played fine.
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Lounge - Sony 65" A8F OLED, Pioneer SC-LX59 9.2 Receiver, Oppo UDP-203 UHD Blu-Ray Player, JBL Studio 180 Speaker Series, ELAC Debut A4 Atmos Modules setup as 5.1.4, Sony PS4 Pro, Logitech Harmony Elite. Bedroom - Samsung UA55C8000 3D LED, Sony PS3.
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post #14513 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 09:50 PM
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Will any flash drive work to playback UHD demo vids? I have a pny 256gb 3.0. Guess I will find out in a few, downloading a bunch of samples.

Last edited by the5rivers; 02-08-2016 at 10:00 PM.
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post #14514 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by OrlandoD View Post
That could work. I like the Antec kit because it's USB powered. My idea was to plug them into a USB power adapter and then plug that USB power adapter into a remote operated power outlet. I don't want the biased lights on all the time my TV is on like during the day and I'm too lazy to fart with the power switches behind the TV.

The Antec kit also has longer power cords which is good. The other kit has an optional dimmer which might be necessary (overly bright) but add to the cost. So I assume the 2 Antecs have the right amount of brightness?

Amazon seems to run out of stock with the Antecs quite often too.

So it's a matter of making a choice.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018MTOCKY/...FGTIUGZY&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TG5EG8/...I2A4OUJX4C93X5
I think the antec kits aren't really that bright. Especially if your set is mounted. And BTW, they have a toggle/switch at 1 end so you can manually turn them on or off even if they're plugged into the USB.
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my JS8500 movie calibration settings as of 8/8/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post34495410
my JS8500 standard calibration settings as of 6/18/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post35124130
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post #14515 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 09:55 PM
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Volume bar, is back to showing only Receiver volume + or -.
I guess, I will have to live with it, this way.
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post #14516 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by wrathloki View Post
That's weird, I thought that was just for applying the settings to other inputs.
This is if you want to adjust settings on a particular mode and have them stay through all inputs/sources. But if you want your settings to be different for each input/source, choose Current Sources

my JS8500 movie calibration settings as of 8/8/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post34495410
my JS8500 standard calibration settings as of 6/18/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post35124130

Last edited by prme19; 02-08-2016 at 10:04 PM.
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post #14517 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post
So I've been spending some time with the TV yesterday and this evening. I was tied up earlier today with my PC stuck in a reboot loop after running Windows update, so that took up my afternoon. That's why I didn't post earlier. Still haven't figured out what happened but right now I can't update my PC.

So here are my initial impressions and feelings towards my set. I'm going to underline a couple things that I could use a bit of advice on.

Firstly, in terms of the usual things to watch for with this set:

- bezel/plastic strip being lifted outwards: Nope - looks perfect on all 4 corners.

- flashlighting: Zero! Not a hint of light from any of the 4 corners. Zero edge bleed. This is with Smart LED off, so it's not just being hidden - there is no light leak at all that I can see, even in a totally dark room.

- clouding: Here's where things get interesting. Yes, there is clouding. With Smart LED off, I see 6-7 clumps of clouding, which are very easy to see in a dark room on a black test screen. A few clumps are more pronounced than others. Most are in the upper-central part of the panel. With some test footage from a film playing a very dark indoor scene, and also a space scene with just stars and a small spaceship in the shot, the clouding is noticeable during the scenes. As my eyes adjust to the darkness, the clouding becomes more apparent. I would not want to keep a set with clouding like that, visible during dark content. But, as soon as I enable Smart LED, the clouding is absolutely gone. Even on a black test screen, the clouding is completely gone when Smart LED is enabled. During end credits, clouding is visible with Smart LED off, but eliminated with it enabled. Both low and standard seem to be just as effective at eliminating (hiding) the clouding. Not a hint of light anywhere on the panel. I couldn't ask for a better-looking panel, once Smart LED is enabled. With it switched off, the clouding immediately appears again. It's a dramatic difference. Without the option of Smart LED, I would not be happy with the panel. With it on, it's like magic. Like the old question, if a tree falls in the forest and nobody is there to hear it, does it make a sound? Well, yes it does, but since nobody hears it, does it matter? In this case, if there's clouding on the panel but I can't see, is it still there? I guess it doesn't matter as long as Smart LED keeps it hidden, right?

- dead pixels: I think I may have 1 dead pixel. It's so tiny of course I can't be sure - but during various greyscale and color slides, that one pixel is always a light grey in appearance. It displays no color in any color slide - it's always light grey. When the panel is displaying black in that area, it can't be seen - it's not white, nor grey - it's invisible when the panel is displaying black in that area. But when it's any other color, it stands out as light greyish in color. Here's the thing - it's in the extreme bottom-left corner - about 1/2 inch from the left and 3/4 of an inch from the bottom. If there's a dead pixel, that's the place to have it I would say. Much better than being in the middle of the panel. From a foot away from the screen I can see it if I look for it, but I have to look. From my couch around 10 feet away, it's impossible to see of course. So I'm leaning heavily towards ignoring it. I hate knowing I have a dead pixel, but I could get an exchange and have 2 more dead pixels in the middle of the screen next time. I wonder how many in here may have 1 or 2 and not even know it? They're tiny on this panel if it is actually a dead pixel I'm looking at. Thoughts?

uniformity: Here's something that I'm confused about. If I display my greyscale slides - especially around the 30%-50% slides, the top half of the panel has lots of dark horizontal "sweeping" - like if you took a broad brush and just went back and forth across the panel sideways like on a canvas. It's very noticeable on the slides and this worries me. But like the clouding, once Smart LED is enabled, that issue is virtually gone (hidden?). Like magic, the panel looks virtually uniform across the entire panel. Just solid grey. My uniformity test slide, which is basically just a greyscale slide I believe, looks completely uniform with Smart LED on. With it off, it does show those wisps across the top half of the panel. I haven't had a chance yet to watch anything with lots of panning against solid backgrounds to see how noticeable this is with Smart LED off. With it on, I can't imagine I'd see anything wrong with the panel at all. Is this anything to worry about?

So considering all the issues these panels can have, I think I've done extremely well. Zero flashlighting, one possible dead pixel in the extreme bottom-left corner, and some clouding and weird wisps/uniformity issues, both of which are eliminated with Smart LED enabled. I'm not kidding when I say the screen looks black with a black test slide - the LEDs are on but the panel is displaying nothing but black.

I've put in both denpom's settings and prme19's, and they both appear quite similar to my eyes. Right now I've got Denpom's settings in. Prme19's 10-point didn't make much of a difference for me, at least with the limited amount of material I've tried so far. I've used the AVS calibration disc basic tests and the Disney WOW disc to tweak the contrast and brightness. I've got the backlight on 10. I watched some Twilight Zone and a few minutes of It's A Wonderful Life on blu-ray to see how black-and-white looks, and I prefer the standard color tone, at least for black and white. I know we're "supposed' to use warm2, but on my old set I used warm1, as warm2 was just too yellowish for my tastes. I feel the same with this set. I like more natural flesh tones in general, and for black and white, even warm1 has a yellowish tint that I can't get comfortable with. Standard looks ideal to me for black and white. For color, I'm not sure yet. If I switch back and forth, I still may prefer standard even with color, but I can't make up my mind on that. I know warm1 is closer to ideal studio color but skin tones look a bit warm/yellowish even on warm 1. Maybe I just need to adjust my eyes to it? I also can't figure out if I should leave gamma on 0 or move it to -1 like prme19. Other than that, I've got the settings dialed in quite nice. I'm using movie mode of course. No white clipping, no color clipping, no black crush. Dynamic Contrast on low. Black tone is off.

I used my trick to disable the screen turning off with black fades, and it worked like a charm, just like on my old set. It makes using black test screens possible, and I don't get annoyed with fades to black in films.

I haven't commented yet on the picture, and I'm trying not to use hyperbole here, but holy cow is this an amazing picture! I downloaded the clips from demo-uhd3d and loaded them onto my new thumb drive and plugged it in, and my jaw was on the floor. Anybody who says you need to be just a few feet from the screen to see the difference between 1080p and 2160p is out of their mind, because from my seating distance of roughly 10', I'm seeing detail like I've never seen on a panel before, and it's certainly not just the jump from a 46" to a 55" screen. The detail is mesmerizing in those demo clips. And then I played the HDR demos. Insane! That first shot of Life of Pi with the sun reflecting on the ocean is striking! What amazed me with the HDR clips is that even with the backlight maxed out on 20, there was zero flashlighting or clouding visible! I can't fathom anybody leaving Smart LED disabled for any reason. Yes, there can be occasional fluctuations on the letterbox bars, but the negatives are far outweighed by the positives when it comes to Smart LED.

Anyways, I knew this was going to be a big post. Sorry guys. Just wanted to cover all my thoughts so far. I need to set up game mode and 3D mode too, and I haven't played around with PC mode yet either. 3D mode is tricky to get the colors balanced because of the tinting of the glasses. Even different brands of glasses have an effect on the color you see in 3D mode. So far I feel very positive about this set. I'm still very glad I have the 90-day return policy at Costco, because I have plenty of time to get comfortable with this set, watch lots of stuff, and see how I feel about it, while keeping my eye on the new models. But honestly, I can't imagine wanting to spend another $1k on a new 2016 model - in fact I couldn't even if I wanted to - I'd have to move down to the smaller size if they even offer one this year, and even then it would cost hundreds more than this 55" set. Sure it will hit brighter nits for HDR, but every panel is a gamble, and I think I hit it lucky here.
On the Disney WoW disc, I think they have something there for dead pixels. You just have to let it run for some time I forgot for how long. It's supposed to help. Just try it.
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my JS8500 movie calibration settings as of 8/8/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post34495410
my JS8500 standard calibration settings as of 6/18/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post35124130
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post #14518 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by prme19 View Post
On the Disney WoW disc, I think they have something there for dead pixels. You just have to let it run for some time I forgot for how long. It's supposed to help. Just try it.
I didn't know that disc had that feature. I'll take a look. I've always wondered about those videos - are they really safe to use? It seems scary to let those dead-pixel videos run for hours at a time. It won't do any harm to the panel?
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post #14519 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post
I didn't know that disc had that feature. I'll take a look. I've always wondered about those videos - are they really safe to use? It seems scary to let those dead-pixel videos run for hours at a time. It won't do any harm to the panel?
Not that I know of, the panel is rated for x amount of hours over its life time, and it does need to be broken in. On my Sammy plasma before this one, when I first got it in 2009, I downloaded the test images from the calibration thread, and I used to run those on slideshow for hours at a night to break in that panel. Probably overkill, but I never had any image retention problems with that tv and I still use it.
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post #14520 of 24033 Old 02-08-2016, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bp787 View Post
in the harmony software, go to: Devices -> Device Options

1. select Adjust power settings
2. click through until you get to: "How do you turn your tv on and off with your current remote"
-- Select "A button on the remote for On, and a different button for Off"
3. Click Next
4. You should now be on: "Which command will Power On your device"
-- Select "I don't have the original remote, but I know the command that is used:"
-- Select "PowerOn"
Click next
5. You are now on: Which command will Power Off your device?
-- Select "I don't have the original remote, but I know the command that is used:"
-- Select: PowerOff
6. finish the setup and update your remote.
YES! It worked! Thank you so much @bp787 My menus were a bit different but your explanations gave me the gist and I was able to find it and change it. I really appreciate you taking the time to post all that.
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