**OFFICIAL** 2015 Samsung 4K SUHD JS8500 Series TV Thread - Page 652 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #19531 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 07:58 AM
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Just wanted to update everyone- I received my 55JS8500 yesterday late afternoon via Amazon Enhanced Delivery (XPO). What a joke that service is. I chose a window of 12-3pm. Two men arrived in a box truck at 4:37pm. They pulled the TV from the back of the truck (luckily it was stored properly) and carried it into my living room, put it on the floor, scanned the side of the outer box, shoved a clipboard at me and told me to sign and then left very promptly. They did not unbox it. They did not check for damage. They did not remove any packing materials. They basically dropped the TV and ran out the door. As a longtime Prime customer I expected better service than this. It was disgraceful. It took me an additional 45 minutes or so to unbox the TV by myself and clean up all of the packing materials.

The TV itself is awesome. I love it. A little bit of a hiccup during the initial set up as the TV wouldn't recognize my STB. I skipped the last part of the set up and once into the TV it recognized the incoming signal. It seemed to perform an automatic software update a couple of times over the last day. I'm guessing now I'm on the latest firmware but i'll have to double check to confirm.

I am using Prme19's settings and loving it so far. The blacks are deep, the colors pop even using my STB (Comcast X1). I changed the output of the STB from 720 to 1080i. Not sure if that made any difference since I hadn't been watching too long. I absorbed as much as I could from this whole thread over the last 10 days or so and was ready to go as soon as the TV was powered on.

I don't have any of the clouding, bleeding, or physical damage others have noted in this thread luckily. Hopefully it stays that way. I'm just really impressed with how the TV looks so far, even powered off. My wife even commented how much she liked the stainless/silver bezel.

I only had a chance to watch one 4k clip from YouTube and my wife and I had the same reaction "wow". I'm hoping to be able to get into more of that today and perhaps some HDR content (Man in the High Castle) from Amazon.

Here are a few photos of the TV. First is of part of the mess XPO left me with.
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post #19532 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rinconmike View Post
It is a DP to HDMI Cable. I just check the spec of the cable and it maxes out at 1920 x 1200.

I will try a new cable.

thanks,
I got a Club 3D CAC-1070 DP 1.2 to HDMI adapter and I now get the 3840 x 2160. However, it is running at 50Hz and not 60Hz. In the samsung Manual for the UN65JS8500 on the supported resolution table, there is a start next to the 3840 x [email protected] and the 3840 x [email protected] The star notes that make sure to connect to the HDMI IN (STB/DVI) which is HDMI 1. I currently have it in HDMI 2 with UHD on. According to this note and the table, if I am not in HDMI 1, I should only get 30Hz, but I am getting 50Hz.

I have my Verizon Fios Box connected to HDMI 1. Is it worth switching the Fios and the PC? Will this effect Fios?

When playing a video (Beueray mkv), I think I see a lag with [email protected] and YCbCR444 that I did not see when I was at 1920 x 1080.

thanks,

Mike

Last edited by rinconmike; 07-03-2016 at 09:43 AM.
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post #19533 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinconmike View Post
I got a Club 3D CAC-1070 DP 1.2 to HDMI adapter and I now get the 3840 x 2160. However, it is running at 50Hz and not 60Hz. In the samsung Manual for the UN65JS8500 on the supported resolution table, there is a start next to the [email protected] and the [email protected] The star notes that make sure to connect to the HDMI IN (STB/DVI) which is HDMI 1. I currently have it in HDMI 2 with UHD on. According to this note and the table, if I am not in HDMI 1, I should only get 30Hz, but I am getting 50Hz.

I have my Verizon Fios Box connected to HDMI 1. Is it worth switching the Fios and the PC? Will this effect Fios?

When playing a video (Beueray mkv), I think I see a lag with [email protected] and YCbCR444 that I did not see when I was at 1920 x 1080.

thanks,

Mike
I am on HDMI - No problems with 4K60 444. Actually it 4k 59.94 but 60 works just as well. Try running RGB.
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post #19534 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 08:59 AM
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I have read reports of hesitation with DP to HDMI adapters.
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post #19535 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by gtgray View Post
I am on HDMI - No problems with 4K60 444. Actually it 4k 59.94 but 60 works just as well. Try running RGB.
I tried HDMI 1 and still only goes up to 50Hz. I assume it is the adapter limiting it.

Last edited by rinconmike; 07-03-2016 at 09:10 AM.
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post #19536 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 09:17 AM
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I tried HDMI 1 and still only goes up to 50Hz. I assume it is the adapter limiting it.
I meant to say - I am on 4k60 on HDMI 3.
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post #19537 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 01:45 PM
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I've tried doing some research on my own with some mixed reviews, but does anyone know of a good pair of 3D glasses to use besides Samsung's branded ones? I have quite a few pairs of battery operated Samsung glasses. If there's better rechargeable glasses out there, I'd much rather use those. Thanks


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post #19538 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinconmike View Post
I got a Club 3D CAC-1070 DP 1.2 to HDMI adapter and I now get the 3840 x 2160. However, it is running at 50Hz and not 60Hz. In the samsung Manual for the UN65JS8500 on the supported resolution table, there is a start next to the 3840 x [email protected] and the 3840 x [email protected] The star notes that make sure to connect to the HDMI IN (STB/DVI) which is HDMI 1. I currently have it in HDMI 2 with UHD on. According to this note and the table, if I am not in HDMI 1, I should only get 30Hz, but I am getting 50Hz.
If I am looking at the same "Supported Resolutions for Video Signals" table in the E-manual that you're referring to (page 168 of my version of the E-manual in pdf format), the asterisk references the following comment:

"For the 6 Series models or lower, make sure to connect to the HDMI IN (STB/DVI) port of the TV. Although the HDMI cable is connected to this port, the HDMI UHD Color function is not available on the 6000 to 6400 series models."

It would appear that the foregoing is not applicable for the 8 Series since that footnote references the 6 Series (or lower); I would therefore assume that connecting to any of the HDMI inputs would make no difference, despite the fact that the One Connect Mini's HDMI ports are labeled such that "HDMI In 1" is supposed to be used for an STB and "HDMI In 2" for a DVI connection (not sure what if any difference that makes, but that's how Samsung has designated them on the One Connect Mini).

A few pages earlier in the E-manual there is a table entitled, "Supported Resolutions for each of UHD Input Signals" (page 152 of my version of the E-manual in pdf format) with a breakdown between HDMI UHD Color Off vs. HDMI UHD Color On for 50/60 frame rates, and that table contains the same footnote as the one on page 168 for 6 Series models (why this footnote appears at all in an 8 Series manual is beyond me). Attached is a screen grab of the "Supported Resolutions for each of UHD Input Signals" page for your reference.
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post #19539 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 4K Tech View Post
If I am looking at the same "Supported Resolutions for Video Signals" table in the E-manual that you're referring to (page 168 of my version of the E-manual in pdf format), the asterisk references the following comment:

"For the 6 Series models or lower, make sure to connect to the HDMI IN (STB/DVI) port of the TV. Although the HDMI cable is connected to this port, the HDMI UHD Color function is not available on the 6000 to 6400 series models."

It would appear that the foregoing is not applicable for the 8 Series since that footnote references the 6 Series (or lower); I would therefore assume that connecting to any of the HDMI inputs would make no difference, despite the fact that the One Connect Mini's HDMI ports are labeled such that "HDMI In 1" is supposed to be used for an STB and "HDMI In 2" for a DVI connection (not sure what if any difference that makes, but that's how Samsung has designated them on the One Connect Mini).

A few pages earlier in the E-manual there is a table entitled, "Supported Resolutions for each of UHD Input Signals" (page 152 of my version of the E-manual in pdf format) with a breakdown between HDMI UHD Color Off vs. HDMI UHD Color On for 50/60 frame rates, and that table contains the same footnote as the one on page 168 for 6 Series models (why this footnote appears at all in an 8 Series manual is beyond me). Attached is a screen grab of the "Supported Resolutions for each of UHD Input Signals" page for your reference.
thanks,

The manual I downloaded states "*: For the 6500 to 6800, 641D to 700D, 7000, 7200, and 8000 series models, make sure to connect to the HDMI IN (STB/DVI) port of the TV."

However, I tried HDMI 1 and it still did not work. I emailed Club 3D. Maybe they have a firmware update that will help.

I did go into NVidia Control Panel and set custom and it seemed to work at 60Hz, but I am not sure what some of the settings should be like scan type (progressive or interlaced) so I just left at at the 50Hz for now. When I did try it it was on progressive.
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post #19540 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 03:36 PM
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Supposedly Marco Polo is the only show at the moment in HDR on Netflix. I updated my Nvidis Shield yesterday, but Marco Polo still says Ultra HD 4K instead of HDR. I started episode 1 and my picture settings didn't change like they do with HDR shows on the Amazon Video app.
Adam Sandlers Ridiculous 6 movie also HDR on Netflix on Nvidia Shield.

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Originally Posted by mc_avs View Post
If you go into Netflix on the TV & go into the search function & search just "HDR", it comes up with Marco Polo & that's it.
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I can confirm that Marco Polo through Netflix on the Nvidia Shield puts my TV into HDR mode, and looks good.
Mine goes to HDR mode as well if UHD Color is enabled in the TV's menu.

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Originally Posted by JaytheDreamer View Post
I don't have a Shield, but considering Shield is an external device have you turned HDMI deep color on for that specific HDMI port your Shield is plugged into?
UHD Color is turned on in mine but has adverse effect on non-HDR media played from Shield. Crushed blacks causing the scenes to be overly dark.

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Originally Posted by JaytheDreamer View Post
Good to know that at least one device now started the support. I will wait until Sep/Oct for new sw roll out, also getting a 4K player around that time (waiting for more brands to show up) so expecting one or the other, TV or a player could cover all HDR apps.
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
Someone on another thread also said that you need to set the Shield to output at 60Hz (not 24Hz).


Richard
That's how mine is setup and HDR does work if UHD Color is enabled in the TV


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Originally Posted by mc_avs View Post
What I was meaning when I said search was, even though the Netflix App on the TV doesn't do HDR, if you search "HDR" it still comes up with Marco Polo even though nowhere in the description of Marco Polo, it says nothing about HDR.
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Originally Posted by SarhoshAmiral View Post
How do you know when the TV goes in to HDR mode? Is there any indication on the info menu or somewhere else?
I don't see any indication on the display but the contrast and brightness levels are noticeably much higher.

The one drawback I'm having is that while UHD Color must be enabled on my HDMI port connected to the Nvidia Shield for HDR to function, at least some of my regular, non-HDR media is overly dark with crushed blacks. I have to disable UHD Color on my Samsung 8500 to correct that. A bit annoying.
Anyone else notice this problem?
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post #19541 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by shadylpete View Post
I've tried doing some research on my own with some mixed reviews, but does anyone know of a good pair of 3D glasses to use besides Samsung's branded ones? I have quite a few pairs of battery operated Samsung glasses. If there's better rechargeable glasses out there, I'd much rather use those. Thanks


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did you perhaps search this thread? lots of discussion about this here.

Quantum 3D glasses work well. http://quantum3dglasses.com/3d-glass...amsung-3d-tvs/

https://quantum3dglasses.com/shop/n1...th-compatible/
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post #19542 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 04:56 PM
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No, as my TV was Professionally Calibrated, my TV is very accurate as you can see from my pics that I posted as well.
to tell you the truth, your pics had all kind of color tints as well.
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post #19543 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 05:19 PM
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post #19544 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 05:30 PM
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to tell you the truth, your pics had all kind of color tints as well.
It may to your eyes look that way from an S7 Edge Camera but in person, it's perfect!
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post #19545 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 05:32 PM
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It may to your eyes look that way from an S7 Edge Camera but in person, it's perfect!
exactly, impossible to judge anything from phone pics. as long as it looks great to you and you're loving it, it's all good.
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post #19546 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 05:45 PM
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exactly, impossible to judge anything from phone pics. as long as it looks great to you and you're loving it, it's all good.
Well I can honestly assure you that it is in person, a big difference & it's a joy to watch & money well spent.

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post #19547 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
If it's a Samsung, the backlight and contrast settings will jump to the max. The only way of knowing on those sets.
Thanks, I have JS8500 as well. I tried watching Bosch in Amazon and it goes to max contrast and backlight and to default standard settings. However all colors looks very washed out in "Standard" mode, should I set the TV to "dynamic" when watching HDR? Dynamic seems to look better but I couldn't be sure if it is HDR or not anymore due to extra brightness.

Btw does the have separate color settings for HDR mode? I noticed all settings were reset to default in standard when watching HDR content not just brightness and backlight
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post #19548 of 24077 Old 07-03-2016, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SarhoshAmiral View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
If it's a Samsung, the backlight and contrast settings will jump to the max. The only way of knowing on those sets.
Thanks, I have JS8500 as well. I tried watching Bosch in Amazon and it goes to max contrast and backlight and to default standard settings. However all colors looks very washed out in "Standard" mode, should I set the TV to "dynamic" when watching HDR? Dynamic seems to look better but I couldn't be sure if it is HDR or not anymore due to extra brightness.

Btw does the have separate color settings for HDR mode? I noticed all settings were reset to default in standard when watching HDR content not just brightness and backlight
I have mine on movie mode. It's hard to give a good answer on the absolute best settings except for Native color, HDMI UHD Color turned on, and sharpness not very high. Each set is different.

Many have said to bump Gamma up two notches, but that started washing out the image on mine.
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post #19549 of 24077 Old 07-04-2016, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SarhoshAmiral View Post
Thanks, I have JS8500 as well. I tried watching Bosch in Amazon and it goes to max contrast and backlight and to default standard settings. However all colors looks very washed out in "Standard" mode, should I set the TV to "dynamic" when watching HDR? Dynamic seems to look better but I couldn't be sure if it is HDR or not anymore due to extra brightness.

Btw does the have separate color settings for HDR mode? I noticed all settings were reset to default in standard when watching HDR content not just brightness and backlight
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
I have mine on movie mode. It's hard to give a good answer on the absolute best settings except for Native color, HDMI UHD Color turned on, and sharpness not very high. Each set is different.

Many have said to bump Gamma up two notches, but that started washing out the image on mine.
^^^^^ I agree!

Set the "Picture Mode" to "Movie"

Set the "Color Space" setting to "Native" (for the wider Color Gamut)

Set "Smart LED" to "High"

Set "Dynamic Contrast" to "Medium" (or "High")

Set "Black Tone" to "OFF"

"Gamma": Some HDR content may require you to raise the "Gamma Correction" Control by couple of points if the picture is too dark and shadow detail is being lost into black ('crushed blacks').

"Sharpness" should be no higher than "20"

"Digital Clean View" and "MPEG Noise Filter" should be set to "OFF" (not "Auto")

"Fit to screen" should be set to "ON" (not "Auto")

Note: The "HDMI UHD Color" setting only applies to the HDMI inputs and should be set to "ON" when viewing HDR content from a player connected to one of the HDMI inputs.


For more "Tips", check out my >> "Picture Settings Guide" <<


Richard
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post #19550 of 24077 Old 07-04-2016, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by SarhoshAmiral View Post
Btw does the have separate color settings for HDR mode? I noticed all settings were reset to default in standard when watching HDR content not just brightness and backlight
that's because Standard is a separate picture mode that supports it's own settings, has nothing to to with HDR per se. you have to "dial it in" just like any other picture mode if you don't want to use factory presets.

use any of the settings from the 1st post in this thread and don't adjust them once the TV switches to HDR and maxes out Backlight, etc according to HDR metadata.
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They pulled the TV from the back of the truck (luckily it was stored properly) and carried it into my living room, put it on the floor, scanned the side of the outer box, shoved a clipboard at me and told me to sign and then left very promptly. They did not unbox it. They did not check for damage. They did not remove any packing materials. They basically dropped the TV and ran out the door. As a longtime Prime customer I expected better service than this.
Amazon should be sending you an email to provide feedback on the delivery. Make sure to include that info in your feedback. That's no bueno.

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post #19552 of 24077 Old 07-05-2016, 10:11 AM
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I noticed that your Custom Colour Space yields very purple results on 1080p Blu-Ray disks, mostly Transformers. (Don't have UHD to test)
Do you experience the same results?
I got the same results. Stuff that's supposed to be blue was purple. When I put up a set of color bars the cyan box was GREY. No hint of color in it. The colors weren't even close. I find it hard to believe that manufacturing variances could make panels that are so far apart. Something's amiss.
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post #19553 of 24077 Old 07-05-2016, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by denpom View Post
that's because Standard is a separate picture mode that supports it's own settings, has nothing to to with HDR per se. you have to "dial it in" just like any other picture mode if you don't want to use factory presets.

use any of the settings from the 1st post in this thread and don't adjust them once the TV switches to HDR and maxes out Backlight, etc according to HDR metadata.
So wait, if I calibrate either a "movie" or "standard" mode initially are you saying that that calibration will not be accurate when viewing an HDR movie (ie. when playing an HDR movie with my K8500?). If that is the case, how do we calibrate when in HDR mode?

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post #19554 of 24077 Old 07-05-2016, 03:52 PM
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So wait, if I calibrate either a "movie" or "standard" mode initially are you saying that that calibration will not be accurate when viewing an HDR movie (ie. when playing an HDR movie with my K8500?). If that is the case, how do we calibrate when in HDR mode?
i don't think that's what he said. he just said you have to apply the calibrations to each mode. If you don't, you'll just be using the stock settings for each "mode".
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post #19555 of 24077 Old 07-05-2016, 04:36 PM
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I got the same results. Stuff that's supposed to be blue was purple. When I put up a set of color bars the cyan box was GREY. No hint of color in it. The colors weren't even close. I find it hard to believe that manufacturing variances could make panels that are so far apart. Something's amiss.

This is why I said that obviously every set is very different & my TV has been Calibrated to what my TV is producing. Like I have said in previous posts, my set is very accurate & it has never looked better & it was money very well spent.
US Samsung's are made in Mexico, Australian Samsung's in Malaysia, it does sound very hard to believe but perhaps there are differences between the two Countries.
At the start I tried @denpom & @prme19 but I found there settings to be off on mine so I tweaked a fair bit from there but it was a good starting point.
I guess it would be good if someone else from Australia had a 65JS8000 that could try my Calibrated settings to see if they yield the same results as you guys or myself who knows. All I can re-iterate is my TV is near perfect as it can get with an LCD but I am impressed & will forever get my future TV's Professionally Calibrated.

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post #19556 of 24077 Old 07-05-2016, 05:27 PM
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This is why I said that obviously every set is very different & my TV has been Calibrated to what my TV is producing. Like I have said in previous posts, my set is very accurate & it has never looked better & it was money very well spent.
US Samsung's are made in Mexico, Australian Samsung's in Malaysia, it does sound very hard to believe but perhaps there are differences between the two Countries.
At the start I tried @denpom & @prme19 but I found there settings to be off on mine so I tweaked a fair bit from there but it was a good starting point.
I guess it would be good if someone else from Australia had a 65JS8000 that could try my Calibrated settings to see if they yield the same results as you guys or myself who knows. All I can re-iterate is my TV is near perfect as it can get with an LCD but I am impressed & will forever get my future TV's Professionally Calibrated.
Yes, I agree that every set is different from the next one. However, the white balance and color measurements as well as the gamma scale should all look about the same as we are using the same reference points, regardless of where the panels are from or what device/software was used. That's why I asked you before if your calibrator gave you a copy of these measurements and graphs? Or even just the color ones, as these seems to have the most issues - although I doubt that your 10 pt white balance is that accurate, seeing that only 10% and 20% were adjusted when most content are in the 60 to 80% range. if you have the measurements and charts, maybe you can post them and all of us here can figure out if it's close to reference or if indeed there's something "amiss".

my JS8500 movie calibration settings as of 8/8/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post34495410
my JS8500 standard calibration settings as of 6/18/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post35124130
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post #19557 of 24077 Old 07-05-2016, 06:19 PM
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Yes, I agree that every set is different from the next one. However, the white balance and color measurements as well as the gamma scale should all look about the same as we are using the same reference points, regardless of where the panels are from or what device/software was used. That's why I asked you before if your calibrator gave you a copy of these measurements and graphs? Or even just the color ones, as these seems to have the most issues - although I doubt that your 10 pt white balance is that accurate, seeing that only 10% and 20% were adjusted when most content are in the 60 to 80% range. if you have the measurements and charts, maybe you can post them and all of us here can figure out if it's close to reference or if indeed there's something "amiss".

I haven't got the charts yet as he is overseas, I said I wasn't fussed to have them straight away & he could send them when he's back.
I saw the charts on his laptop & he showed me the pre & post results & the pre Calibration results were way off & post results were excellent.
I asked him about the 10pt Balance & after 20% nothing needed to be changed.
I for one totally understand what you are saying but the results on my TV speak for themselves & my blues are definitely blue not purple & even though the pictures I posted are from a S7 Edge Camera, you can clearly see that my blues aren't purple.

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post #19558 of 24077 Old 07-05-2016, 08:07 PM
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I haven't got the charts yet as he is overseas, I said I wasn't fussed to have them straight away & he could send them when he's back.
I saw the charts on his laptop & he showed me the pre & post results & the pre Calibration results were way off & post results were excellent.
I asked him about the 10pt Balance & after 20% nothing needed to be changed.
I for one totally understand what you are saying but the results on my TV speak for themselves & my blues are definitely blue not purple & even though the pictures I posted are from a S7 Edge Camera, you can clearly see that my blues aren't purple.
nothing against your calibrator, but this is why I tell my friends who got their sets calibrated to ALWAYS ask for the copy of the measurements right then and there, that way they will have proof of what the calibrator did on their sets, especially if their paying for it. Some calibrators can just give you a "stock" copy later on and you won't have any idea if it's yours or not.

But this might not be a problem with you as you seem to know your calibrator pretty well.

my JS8500 movie calibration settings as of 8/8/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post34495410
my JS8500 standard calibration settings as of 6/18/15 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post35124130
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post #19559 of 24077 Old 07-05-2016, 08:35 PM
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nothing against your calibrator, but this is why I tell my friends who got their sets calibrated to ALWAYS ask for the copy of the measurements right then and there, that way they will have proof of what the calibrator did on their sets, especially if their paying for it. Some calibrators can just give you a "stock" copy later on and you won't have any idea if it's yours or not.

But this might not be a problem with you as you seem to know your calibrator pretty well.

Totally agree with you but he is a good bloke & is coming back to do further Calibrations to my TV. I saw the pre & post results on his laptop so it wasn't like he just said "ok I'm all done, TV is Calibrated" & then left. At each stage he came & got me to show results etc as I'm not someone to sit & watch someone do their job even though I was excited & interested & he explained everything in detail because he knew I know the language he is speaking in regards to Calibrating.
He spent nearly 4 hours Calibrating it & is ISF Certified so I have no worries at all & like I said, in person it's been an amazing difference that I wish you could see in person.
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post #19560 of 24077 Old 07-06-2016, 04:15 AM
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I guess it would be good if someone else from Australia had a 65JS8000 that could try my Calibrated settings to see if they yield the same results as you guys or myself who knows. All I can re-iterate is my TV is near perfect as it can get with an LCD but I am impressed & will forever get my future TV's Professionally Calibrated.
I had some time to put your settings into my Australian model UA65JS8000 and take some measurements. I first reset movie mode to stock and took one set off measurements, then input your settings into movie mode and took some more measurements. Attached are the greyscale plots and CIE diagrams for both.

Your greyscale is blue at the high IRE levels, and the colours as shown on the CIE diagram are a bit wonky. Are you sure there are no typos on the settings you posted? Cyan in in particular is way off.
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