**OFFICIAL** 2015 Samsung 4K SUHD JS8500 Series TV Thread - Page 712 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #21331 of 23873 Old 12-05-2016, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by wirzen View Post
Hello everyone, I have a 65JS8500 that presents some problems, I called the warranty and they changed the screen and the motherboard. However one of the "problems" continues, does your television show these tracks on the bottom (photos)? The tech support person told me that these tracks were part of the television project and would not be a problem. Can anyone tell if this is true? Should I trigger the warranty again? Thank you in advance for your attention.
Panel Lottery... you didn't win.
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post #21332 of 23873 Old 12-06-2016, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by gtgray View Post
Panel Lottery... you didn't win.
Oh really?? So it´s a problem on the panel? Do you indicate that I will contact service again?
Can anyone else help? Thanks again!
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post #21333 of 23873 Old 12-06-2016, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by wirzen View Post
Oh really?? So it´s a problem on the panel? Do you indicate that I will contact service again?
Can anyone else help? Thanks again!
it's not normal and not ok.

1) search this thread.

2) it's a defect

3) if it doesn't bug you, then it won't have any other adverse effects on the tv, and you should keep it. otherwise, call service.
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post #21334 of 23873 Old 12-06-2016, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Rudy1 View Post
The pointer is not supported in many apps...Amazon is one of them. It's up to the app developers to enable and continually support any hardware and/or GUI features a TV manufacturer incorporates into a particular model.
Thank you for the good response. Just wanted make sure it was not my TV or remote.
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post #21335 of 23873 Old 12-06-2016, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by psurob12 View Post
they are twisted veins, about a year old, so that may be my issue.. Contacted Yamaha support and they recommended getting some premium certified HDMI cables, as they've seen a lot of this kind of thing with this unit.

Ordered 3 from monoprice and hopefully that will resolve the issue. Fingers crossed.

AnyNet+ is on, but if I turn it off the soundbar disconnects completely.
I just went through trying to diagnose a similar issue with a friend's (KS8500) TV, xbox one S and Yamaha RX-V779 receiver. There is another setting in your Yamaha soundbar (page 95 in the online manual) that suggests turning "on" HDMI Control: --- When connecting ARC (Audio Return Channel) supported TV and this unit using an HDMI cable only, set “HDMI Control” to “On”.

We were also having issues getting the xbox one S to recognize the TV's HDR capability when connected through the Yamaha until we changed the 4k Mode in advanced settings to Mode 1 (in Yamaha settings) as has already been suggested.

For anyone using a Yamaha receiver, there may also be an advanced setting (MON.CHK) that automatically detects video resolutions supported by the TV when connected via the HDMI OUT jack. Setting this to "skip" was also necessary to resolve issues.

Even after getting the xbox one S to run a successful compatibility test for the TV with all the 4k and HDR boxes checked while cabled through the Yamaha, we still had an issue whenever a 4k UHD BD disk was played. It would start normally with HDR enabled (finally, YES), but would soon start to flicker or pulse the image displayed on the TV and the display on the Yamaha would fluctuate like is was unable to lock on a particular sound format.

What turned out to be our solution, after much hair pulling and research on AVS and elsewhere, we swapped out the HDMI cable that was supplied with the xbox with another new cable that was laying around and BAM - everything worked fine. We had previously swapped out other cables, but not that one.

Sorry about the long post, but as a long time lurker and non-professional noob, I just wanted to share my experience and to state my appreciation for those members here on the forums that patiently provide extremely valuable help to those of us that don't know anything technical about these topics and mistakenly just sort of expect our equipment to "work."
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post #21336 of 23873 Old 12-06-2016, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by zibbledabbit View Post
I just went through trying to diagnose a similar issue with a friend's (KS8500) TV, xbox one S and Yamaha RX-V779 receiver. There is another setting in your Yamaha soundbar (page 95 in the online manual) that suggests turning "on" HDMI Control: --- When connecting ARC (Audio Return Channel) supported TV and this unit using an HDMI cable only, set “HDMI Control” to “On”.

We were also having issues getting the xbox one S to recognize the TV's HDR capability when connected through the Yamaha until we changed the 4k Mode in advanced settings to Mode 1 (in Yamaha settings) as has already been suggested.

For anyone using a Yamaha receiver, there may also be an advanced setting (MON.CHK) that automatically detects video resolutions supported by the TV when connected via the HDMI OUT jack. Setting this to "skip" was also necessary to resolve issues.

Even after getting the xbox one S to run a successful compatibility test for the TV with all the 4k and HDR boxes checked while cabled through the Yamaha, we still had an issue whenever a 4k UHD BD disk was played. It would start normally with HDR enabled (finally, YES), but would soon start to flicker or pulse the image displayed on the TV and the display on the Yamaha would fluctuate like is was unable to lock on a particular sound format.

What turned out to be our solution, after much hair pulling and research on AVS and elsewhere, we swapped out the HDMI cable that was supplied with the xbox with another new cable that was laying around and BAM - everything worked fine. We had previously swapped out other cables, but not that one.

Sorry about the long post, but as a long time lurker and non-professional noob, I just wanted to share my experience and to state my appreciation for those members here on the forums that patiently provide extremely valuable help to those of us that don't know anything technical about these topics and mistakenly just sort of expect our equipment to "work."
I also use instant on for my xbox one S. Should I not have Instant on set to turn the soundbar on and off? It seems like the TV is doing that already anyway.

I will try the HDMI control setting from page 95 of the manual as well and post back my results.
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post #21337 of 23873 Old 12-06-2016, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by psurob12 View Post
I also use instant on for my xbox one S. Should I not have Instant on set to turn the soundbar on and off? It seems like the TV is doing that already anyway.

I will try the HDMI control setting from page 95 of the manual as well and post back my results.
I have the xbox set for Instant-On, and am unsure if that would be part of your audio issues since all it does is keeps the xbox sort of in a "sleep" mode rather than shutting all the way down. The fact that your soundbar powers up when turning on the xbox may be more a result of the TV settings for Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) .

I have the Anynet stuff turned off on my TV since it can cause issues or unexpected results when using a third party universal remote like I do with a Logitech Harmony remote used to switch inputs.

If you have not already done so, you can check the TV user manual regarding the TV's Anynet settings and try turning it off or changing settings to see if that has any effect. Keep in mind if you turn it off you probably will need to change TV and/or soundbar power or input switching manually. In the Anynet settings, I also think you can see which of your devices the TV recognizes as compatible with Anynet.

Good luck
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post #21338 of 23873 Old 12-06-2016, 05:17 PM
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So how about that November Netflix HDR update?
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post #21339 of 23873 Old 12-06-2016, 05:49 PM
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So how about that November Netflix HDR update?
Actually, the official word was "November-December", so you can't ask what happened until January, 2017.
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post #21340 of 23873 Old 12-06-2016, 05:52 PM
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Actually, the official word was "November-December", so you can't ask what happened until January, 2017.
Oh, right. Well I'll just go ahead and ask now because I can see the future. How about that November-December update?
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post #21341 of 23873 Old 12-06-2016, 06:26 PM
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Bias Lighting

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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
For those interested in the subject of "Bias Lighting"...

I thought you might be interested in this conversation on the subject that I was having with some other members in another thread.

Some people were asking me questions about "Bias Lights", which led to an ongoing conversation/debate on the subject.

I told them that I now recommend the ones from www.biaslighting.com explaining why.

>> The MediaLight 6500K Bias Lighting System <<

NOTE: BiasLighting.com is a division of Scenic Labs Inc. Founded in 2009, they are the publishers of Joe Kane's Digital Video Essentials (HD Basics, UHD, and more), as well as Knowhow Picture Perfect -- the top selling TV optimisation programme in the world.

I also mentioned some private conversations that I had with Jason Rosenfeld the director of Scenic Labs Inc.

You can check out my posts starting with > THIS POST < ...

...then > THIS ONE < , and finally > THIS < (lengthy but very informative ) follow-up one.


Anyways, I just thought I'd share this for those of you interested in "Bias Lighting".



Richard


Hey King Richard,

Appreciate the work you've put in to explain some of this stuff.

Question for you. I use Philips Hue lighting in my house and have a lightstrip on the back of my 55 inch JS8500. Using the API, I'm able to set the light to 6500K. However, now that I've got the color temperature right, I'm trying to determine the proper brightness of the strip for a dark room. Using the API, I can set the brightness to any value from 0 to 254. I've heard it should be no more than 10% of the brightest white the TV can display, but that seems extremely tough to measure.

Any tips?
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post #21342 of 23873 Old 12-06-2016, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirzen View Post
Hello everyone, I have a 65JS8500 that presents some problems, I called the warranty and they changed the screen and the motherboard. However one of the "problems" continues, does your television show these tracks on the bottom (photos)? The tech support person told me that these tracks were part of the television project and would not be a problem. Can anyone tell if this is true? Should I trigger the warranty again? Thank you in advance for your attention.

Do you refer to those three dark spots at the bottom?
I have those as well, after they have replaced the screen.
I can't see them from the viewing angle, only if I go near the TV and look down.
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post #21343 of 23873 Old 12-06-2016, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobPT45 View Post
Hey King Richard,

Appreciate the work you've put in to explain some of this stuff.

Question for you. I use Philips Hue lighting in my house and have a lightstrip on the back of my 55 inch JS8500. Using the API, I'm able to set the light to 6500K. However, now that I've got the color temperature right, I'm trying to determine the proper brightness of the strip for a dark room. Using the API, I can set the brightness to any value from 0 to 254. I've heard it should be no more than 10% of the brightest white the TV can display, but that seems extremely tough to measure.

Any tips?
I can render a test pattern that demonstrates maximum brightness for ambient light. You can then just cast it your TV or maybe I'll post it on youtube if you can access it via the TV.
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post #21344 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 02:28 AM
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I'm the happiest I've ever been with my JS8500 tv.

I went tv searching a year ago today. Tried all of these: JU7500, JS9000, x800c, x850c, and then the js8500. I loved the Sony x850c. It's colors, while not accurate, were my favorite for watching YouTube and playing video games with their vivid triluminous display cranking out colors to 110%. I always hated how the JS8500 has overblown reds in the native color settings when going anything past 50 in color. People's skin tones never looked right, always looking sun burned with rosey cheeks. I took a look at some calibration guides. Followed some of those steps then created some steps of my own. I have my color set at 75. In custom color settings, i cranked up the green all the way, tweaked the yellow, enhanced the magenta, added some more blue, and turned the red up while adding green and blue into the red settings to achieve natural looking skin tones. I was starting to doubt this TV, but now I love my picture! It's the best it's ever been! I know that they are not 100% accurate, but It looks just as good if not better than my Sony x850c that I once loved, plus it has better blacks, whites, gray uniformity, brightness, everything I'm sure you are all aware of. My favorite scene to calibrate my colors is the scene from Cloudy with A Chance of Meatballs 2 when the invention blows up into a thousand colors onto everyone in the crowd. That whole movie has great colors popping up in every scene. Watching and playing everything is way more enjoyable for me now. It was worth the two nights I spent changing all the color settings in advanced settings under color space "custom". Thanks everyone!
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post #21345 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by bp787 View Post
it's not normal and not ok.

1) search this thread.

2) it's a defect

3) if it doesn't bug you, then it won't have any other adverse effects on the tv, and you should keep it. otherwise, call service.
Hi there, thanks again. I contact the samsung support again in my country, sent the pictures by email and they agree to change the panel again. Hope the next will be ok
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post #21346 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by tibimakai View Post
Do you refer to those three dark spots at the bottom?
I have those as well, after they have replaced the screen.
I can't see them from the viewing angle, only if I go near the TV and look down.
Yes, this 3 dark spots at the bottom, so you had 2 panels and both had this spots? I cant see always, only when i look down, but i saw another panel tv from my friend and the tv dosent have this dark spots.
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post #21347 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 08:25 AM
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I did not check the the first screen, I had other issues with that.
After they replaced it with the current one, I have paid attention to everything, to be sure that is OK. Than I have noticed these things.
They don't bother me, since I can't see them, from where I'm watching the TV.
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post #21348 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by zibbledabbit View Post
I have the Anynet stuff turned off on my TV since it can cause issues or unexpected results when using a third party universal remote like I do with a Logitech Harmony remote used to switch inputs. k
I'm having an issue with my new Harmony hub I just set up. I have all my stuff running thru my receiver then into HDMI 4 on the mini box except for my Xbox 1 which is in HDMI 1. First the Harmony app has no HDMI 4 input for this TV. Just 1 - 3??? on the remote touchscreen. It's there during the setup process but with numerous options like "HDMI 4 with HDMI 1,2 &3 active" not really sure which one to chose. Anyway, when I press a command like "watch TV" instead of selecting HDMI 4 it puts it on the "TV" or "Cable" source which is only static. Any help on figuring this out?
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post #21349 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 09:18 AM
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I'm fighting with the same issue. The only difference is, that I have my Directv mini at HDMI1. Mine, instead of selecting HDMI1, it starts there and then jumps to like three inputs to the right and ends up on something totally else, then HDMI1.
Everybody likes these remotes, but every time I buy one and I can't make it work properly and I end up selling them.
Do you setup a separate activity, to watch Smart Hub, or you just use it with the Watch TV activity.
I'm using it, with an Onkyo TX-NR646.
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post #21350 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudy1 View Post
The pointer is not supported in many apps...Amazon is one of them. It's up to the app developers to enable and continually support any hardware and/or GUI features a TV manufacturer incorporates into a particular model.
Oddly enough it used to work great until the last update. Hope they get it sorted out
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post #21351 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by maestreaux View Post
I'm having an issue with my new Harmony hub I just set up. I have all my stuff running thru my receiver then into HDMI 4 on the mini box except for my Xbox 1 which is in HDMI 1. First the Harmony app has no HDMI 4 input for this TV. Just 1 - 3??? on the remote touchscreen. It's there during the setup process but with numerous options like "HDMI 4 with HDMI 1,2 &3 active" not really sure which one to chose. Anyway, when I press a command like "watch TV" instead of selecting HDMI 4 it puts it on the "TV" or "Cable" source which is only static. Any help on figuring this out?
1. you need to search this thread first. This has been discussed. even recently.

2.HDMI 4 is a macro. the samsung doesn't have a direct input for HDMI4. The remote's setup will ask you some questions about what stuff you have connected to the tv. answer them, and then the remote will navigate through the menu to get to HDMI4. Easiest way is to have something plugged into HDMI3.

3. If you enable HDMI-CEC on the tv and the receiver, HDMI 4 won't be an issue, as when you select the receiver's desired input, it will tell the tv to auto switch to HDMI4.
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post #21352 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tibimakai View Post
I'm fighting with the same issue. The only difference is, that I have my Directv mini at HDMI1. Mine, instead of selecting HDMI1, it starts there and then jumps to like three inputs to the right and ends up on something totally else, then HDMI1.
Everybody likes these remotes, but every time I buy one and I can't make it work properly and I end up selling them.
Do you setup a separate activity, to watch Smart Hub, or you just use it with the Watch TV activity.
I'm using it, with an Onkyo TX-NR646.
you're not fighting the same issue. His issue was related to the fact that HDMI 4 is not a direct input on the tv.

1. Search. This was just recently discussed, I know because I'm the one who was discussing it.

2. Setup a separate "WATCH SMART TV" activity. The activity must not change inputs on the tv. It will issue a "smart hub" command and you will need to setup the arrow keys/enter key, etc... appropriately to control the tv. You will have it set the onkyo to "TV/CD" if you are using ARC, otherwise you will have it set to switch to the proper optical input to get the audio from the apps to work.


3. You don't have your WatchTV setup correct if it's jumping inputs. HDMI 1 is a direct access input. redo it. And perhaps share some screen shots of your setup.

Sony xbr65x850c Side Blooming test clips:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...br65x850c.xlsx
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post #21353 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bp787 View Post
you're not fighting the same issue. His issue was related to the fact that HDMI 4 is not a direct input on the tv.

1. Search. This was just recently discussed, I know because I'm the one who was discussing it.

2. Setup a separate "WATCH SMART TV" activity. The activity must not change inputs on the tv. It will issue a "smart hub" command and you will need to setup the arrow keys/enter key, etc... appropriately to control the tv. You will have it set the onkyo to "TV/CD" if you are using ARC, otherwise you will have it set to switch to the proper optical input to get the audio from the apps to work.


3. You don't have your WatchTV setup correct if it's jumping inputs. HDMI 1 is a direct access input. redo it. And perhaps share some screen shots of your setup.
I'm having problem setting up, the TV input selection type.
There are three variants, pushing the source multiple times, pushing source and then left or right arrows and the last one is direct HDMI input selection(from memory).
I have tried all three versions, and it is still changing the input the same way.
I have noticed the same thing, that the TV does not have HDMI 4. I was thinking, that maybe that is a problem and that is why I can't set up properly the remote.
With the Smart Hub, I have to remove the input selection, thanks for that. I have it wrong now.
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post #21354 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobPT45 View Post
Hey King Richard,

Appreciate the work you've put in to explain some of this stuff.

Question for you. I use Philips Hue lighting in my house and have a lightstrip on the back of my 55 inch JS8500. Using the API, I'm able to set the light to 6500K. However, now that I've got the color temperature right, I'm trying to determine the proper brightness of the strip for a dark room. Using the API, I can set the brightness to any value from 0 to 254. I've heard it should be no more than 10% of the brightest white the TV can display, but that seems extremely tough to measure.

Any tips?
the black levels/contrast of this tv are good already. no need to a ambient light.
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post #21355 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by wirzen View Post
Yes, this 3 dark spots at the bottom, so you had 2 panels and both had this spots? I cant see always, only when i look down, but i saw another panel tv from my friend and the tv dosent have this dark spots.
All 3 of my 65" sets had this, including the one I decided to keep. It must be normal.
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post #21356 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 03:04 PM
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the black levels/contrast of this tv are good already. no need to a ambient light.
I agree. I was watching S2 EP11 of Daredevil last night and was pleasantly surprised at the black levels. The clouding was minimal to non existent. I feel like the clouding on this set tends to vary depending on the content.

Speaking of Netflix, when I logged in last night I noticed that there was subtle changes to the UI and I got all excited that the app was finally updated with HDR. I checked the app date in the details and was disappointed to still see the 1/6/16 date.
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post #21357 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tmdorsey View Post
I agree. I was watching S2 EP11 of Daredevil last night and was pleasantly surprised at the black levels. The clouding was minimal to non existent. I feel like the clouding on this set tends to vary depending on the content.

Speaking of Netflix, when I logged in last night I noticed that there was subtle changes to the UI and I got all excited that the app was finally updated with HDR. I checked the app date in the details and was disappointed to still see the 1/6/16 date.
Bias lighting will make even the best of TVs look better. It's all down to how your eye processes what it sees, not the quality of the image on the screen.
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post #21358 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by wrathloki View Post
Bias lighting will make even the best of TVs look better. It's all down to how your eye processes what it sees, not the quality of the image on the screen.
Should have clarified that I was agreeing about the great contrast/black levels of this set. I have no doubt a bias light would make the picture even better/more consistent for dark room viewing. Unfortunately for me my room setup where the tv is doesn't allow for me to try a bias light setup which in the end is fine because I rarely view the tv in a totally dark room.
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post #21359 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by wrathloki View Post
Bias lighting will make even the best of TVs look better. It's all down to how your eye processes what it sees, not the quality of the image on the screen.
i dont understand what "better" for you means? bias light is enhancing the contrast by tricking your eyes by the light around/behind the tv.
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post #21360 of 23873 Old 12-07-2016, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by tmdorsey View Post
Should have clarified that I was agreeing about the great contrast/black levels of this set. I have no doubt a bias light would make the picture even better/more consistent for dark room viewing. Unfortunately for me my room setup where the tv is doesn't allow for me to try a bias light setup which in the end is fine because I rarely view the tv in a totally dark room.
try denpom settings, pretty good blacks
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