**OFFICIAL** 2015 Samsung 4K SUHD JS8500 Series TV Thread - Page 805 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #24121 of 24353 Old 01-13-2020, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by wrathloki View Post
That’s because you’re using Denpom’s settings like I said in my previous post. Use Prime95’s or RTings settings and you won’t have to worry about turning HDR off because it will look great. This fix really isn’t hard. I know I’m just some random dude on the internet but just trust me on this one. It doesn’t take much to change those settings, like 5 minutes tops. Every HDR show I’ve watched on Amazon looks very bright, Goliath looks especially good.


Actually I’ve tried both Prime95’s and RTings settings. I settled on RTing’s setting because I does seem just a bit brighter on HDR (although I’m not so sure it looks better than Denpom’s watching Dish). But no matter which one I use HDR looks dark. Some looks better than others. I watched the first 10 minutes of The Wall and it looks great. Although the setting is outside in the bright sunshine in the desert. But The Boys and Goliath are both really dark. Even in daylight outdoor scenes.


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post #24122 of 24353 Old 01-13-2020, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by smokey982 View Post
Actually I’ve tried both Prime95’s and RTings settings. I settled on RTing’s setting because I does seem just a bit brighter on HDR (although I’m not so sure it looks better than Denpom’s watching Dish). But no matter which one I use HDR looks dark. Some looks better than others. I watched the first 10 minutes of The Wall and it looks great. Although the setting is outside in the bright sunshine in the desert. But The Boys and Goliath are both really dark. Even in daylight outdoor scenes.


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Something is wrong. I can’t speak for The Boys but Goliath should definitely not look dark. How are you watching Amazon, using the TV app or another device? When did you get your TV? Did you buy it used from somebody?

FYI after years of using this TV I settled on RTings as well. I was using Prime95’s for a long time but there was a blue cast to dark scenes. Not so much with RTings. Anyways if Dish is anything like Comcast I’m not sure any setting can make it look good, that’s just the nature of highly compressed 720p and 1080i signals.
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post #24123 of 24353 Old 01-13-2020, 06:30 AM
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Something is wrong. I can’t speak for The Boys but Goliath should definitely not look dark. How are you watching Amazon, using the TV app or another device? When did you get your TV? Did you buy it used from somebody?



FYI after years of using this TV I settled on RTings as well. I was using Prime95’s for a long time but there was a blue cast to dark scenes. Not so much with RTings. Anyways if Dish is anything like Comcast I’m not sure any setting can make it look good, that’s just the nature of highly compressed 720p and 1080i signals.


My Dish Hopper has Prime and Netflix integrated into the receiver. I was concerned that it was a Dish issue as well. But I’ve been talking with people in a Dish forum that I’m a part of and they’re telling me the picture through Dish looks the same as it does through their Apple TV and Roku 4K. I bought the tv new in 2015.
I don’t subscribe to 4K on Netflix. But 1080P looks great on Netflix.


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post #24124 of 24353 Old 01-13-2020, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by smokey982 View Post
My Dish Hopper has Prime and Netflix integrated into the receiver. I was concerned that it was a Dish issue as well. But I’ve been talking with people in a Dish forum that I’m a part of and they’re telling me the picture through Dish looks the same as it does through their Apple TV and Roku 4K. I bought the tv new in 2015.
I don’t subscribe to 4K on Netflix. But 1080P looks great on Netflix.


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Have you tried using the Prime app on the TV to see if that looks better? That would be the first step, it could be a problem with the settings on the Dish box or maybe there’s some kind of fault with the Dish box even. I wouldn’t take it working fine for other Dish users as gospel, it could be a problem specific to your box.

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post #24125 of 24353 Old 01-16-2020, 03:48 AM
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Hi all,

Just signed up to this forum just to write this post. I bought a used UN55JS8500 yesterday from a local seller. Tested it at his place and everything looked great, brought it home and when my girlfriend and I were lifting the tv to put it up on the stand. I heard a plastic "popping" sound. I figured it just the bezel flexing but it turns out she was pinching the screen and it ended up cracking... Sad story, but here I am bringing a new tv home, turn it on and the bottom left corner of the screen is now cracked. Instant heartbreak.

So, I wanted to ask if anyone has a lead on how to go about getting a replacement screen for less than what I just paid for this tv ($450), please let me know. I'm scouring the internet and ebay to try and find a solution.
For now, I'm still enjoying the new tv and trying not to stare at the bottom corner of the screen. Luckily a lot of the stuff I've been watching so far is letterbox.

That's really unfortunate. I don't think you're likely to find a replacement panel for anything that's going to be considered reasonable considering you picked this set up for $450. You haven't attached any photos of the damage so it's difficult to understand exactly how much of your screen is affected (can you photo the problem for us?), however, you say that letter boxed programmes are not affected, so I'm going to make a pragmatic suggestion to better enjoy your TV without spending a fortune. I would purchase some black or silver duct tape and as neatly as possible, just mask off the offending area either horizontally or vertically. Of course you'll lose a couple of inches of screen but it's a shame to throw it away when you realise what a great picture it has (not to mention 3D too).
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post #24126 of 24353 Old 01-17-2020, 10:24 AM
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So help me understand the difference in standard and movie mode. I was under the impression those were just different calibrations from the factory for making quick setting adjustments. But when I see calibration settings from Denpom and others in this forum they always start out by telling what mode to use. So that leads me to believe that if I use someone’s recommended settings from this forum under standard. And then I in turn use the exact same settings under movie mode. Am I dealing with two different settings? Or will they in fact be identical in everything but the name?


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post #24127 of 24353 Old 01-17-2020, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokey982 View Post
So help me understand the difference in standard and movie mode. I was under the impression those were just different calibrations from the factory for making quick setting adjustments. But when I see calibration settings from Denpom and others in this forum they always start out by telling what mode to use. So that leads me to believe that if I use someone’s recommended settings from this forum under standard. And then I in turn use the exact same settings under movie mode. Am I dealing with two different settings? Or will they in fact be identical in everything but the name?


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They will be different. The picture menu changes operate on the default settings of a mode, so decreasing the brightness of movie mode will leave a different picture of an equivalent decrease of brightness in standard mode.
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post #24128 of 24353 Old 01-18-2020, 09:28 AM
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Cool Picture Menu, "Apply Picture Mode" for this 'source' only

@smokey982 , Professional Calibrators will calibrate in your "Movie Mode" as it has many more options available to adjust than the other modes. Often they will first enable the "Cal Day/Night" modes from within Service Menu as these have the same setting options as "Movie". The Service menu is extremely dangerous to navigate and should be avoided but best 'pdf' of instruction is found on first post of the "KS-9800" board but know that one error can permanently 'brick' your TV. .

In your Picture Menu, you have the option (within each mode) to select (default "all sources") or "for the current 'source' only" and I selected this option.

With that selected, a change in backlight (or any other change) will only affect what is currently being watched, but it will be saved for the next viewing from that "source". This is true not only for each app/HDMI/USB/Component Port, but will also be applied when you're using 3D or HDR options as well. It will also apply any changes you select in Menu>System> "Eco Solution" for just the 'source' you're on at the moment.

We are told that for better sleeping, we should avoid prior-sleep "Blue" light (like from a smart phone) and I imagine that a TV could be the worst. I've tried to select settings within "Cal-Night" to minimize this effect, but have never read any advice on that subject.
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Many new televisions have blue light filters that you can turn on. The filter adjusts the tone of the light emitted from the screen to a warmer tone, which is better for your eyes and the chemical production for sleep in your brain.

To turn on the filter go to the Settings menu and choose the Display option. Then look for the blue light filter to activate it. If you can't find the setting, you may want to refer to your owner's manual.
They're blocking the link, but quote is from c|net on "Why watching TV at night keeps you up too late (and how to fix it)". also saw this: https://www.tomsguide.com/us/samsung...w-4663-17.html
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post #24129 of 24353 Old 01-20-2020, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by smokey982 View Post
So help me understand the difference in standard and movie mode. I was under the impression those were just different calibrations from the factory for making quick setting adjustments. But when I see calibration settings from Denpom and others in this forum they always start out by telling what mode to use. So that leads me to believe that if I use someone’s recommended settings from this forum under standard. And then I in turn use the exact same settings under movie mode. Am I dealing with two different settings? Or will they in fact be identical in everything but the name?
The only difference is that movie mode has 10 point scale available to change. On standard mode it's greyed out & not an option to change anything. So identical settings except 10 point scale that you can change in movie mode. I just use standard for cable TV box & movie mode is for everything else I watch. Make sure to use game mode if playing on any game systems.

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post #24130 of 24353 Old 01-25-2020, 06:55 AM
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So for the people with AVR’s that have HDMI passthrough. Whats the best method for running cables in conjunction with the one connect mini? Right now I currently own an older Denon 1909 that doesn’t offer HDMI passthrough. So right now I have my Dish, Apple TV, and Roku 4K going into the one connect. And then an optical cable from one connect to Denon. I still get sound through my tv as well but I keep it muted so it’s not a big deal. But I’ve been considering upgrading my AVR. So if I upgraded to a receiver with HDMI Passthrough, I assume I would run all of the inputs into the receiver. And then the output from the receiver into the one connect? So that would mean I’ll only have one cable going into the one connect? If that’s the case is there a preference on which input to use on the one Connect?

And I guess my next question is am I crazy for upgrading when I’m not having any issues with my current Denon? What benefit would I gain versus what I currently have?


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post #24131 of 24353 Old 01-25-2020, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by smokey982 View Post
So for the people with AVR’s that have HDMI passthrough. Whats the best method for running cables in conjunction with the one connect mini? Right now I currently own an older Denon 1909 that doesn’t offer HDMI passthrough. So right now I have my Dish, Apple TV, and Roku 4K going into the one connect. And then an optical cable from one connect to Denon. I still get sound through my tv as well but I keep it muted so it’s not a big deal. But I’ve been considering upgrading my AVR. So if I upgraded to a receiver with HDMI Passthrough, I assume I would run all of the inputs into the receiver. And then the output from the receiver into the one connect? So that would mean I’ll only have one cable going into the one connect? If that’s the case is there a preference on which input to use on the one Connect?

And I guess my next question is am I crazy for upgrading when I’m not having any issues with my current Denon? What benefit would I gain versus what I currently have?


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That is one way of doing it, yes. It's essentially what I do with my onkyo.

Depending on your setup, it may not matter much. Do you have a standard 5.1 audio setup? If you are trying to go to something more than 5.1, you really would need to go with HDMI passthrough to get anything more than 5.1, as optical can only do 5.1 other than that, it's probably not a big deal to upgrade just to get HDMI passthrough/less cables to the tv.

Also, do you use the smart tv features still? if you do, you would have to use HDMI 4, as that provides ARC (audio return channel) back to the receiver. If you don't use the apps or have some other device, then you would use HDMI 1-3, as those are discrete inputs on the TV. HDMI 4 is stupidly not directly accessible by universal remotes (harmony, etc...)

NOTE: ARC also cannot pass 7.1 audio currently, but it can do DD+ (IIRC). So if your goal is to go for immersive audio, a new HDMI receiver is a must.

If you do upgrade receivers, ensure that it does 4k HDR passthrough, just just HDMI passthrough.

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post #24132 of 24353 Old 01-25-2020, 09:15 AM
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That is one way of doing it, yes. It's essentially what I do with my onkyo.



Depending on your setup, it may not matter much. Do you have a standard 5.1 audio setup? If you are trying to go to something more than 5.1, you really would need to go with HDMI passthrough to get anything more than 5.1, as optical can only do 5.1 other than that, it's probably not a big deal to upgrade just to get HDMI passthrough/less cables to the tv.



Also, do you use the smart tv features still? if you do, you would have to use HDMI 4, as that provides ARC (audio return channel) back to the receiver. If you don't use the apps or have some other device, then you would use HDMI 1-3, as those are discrete inputs on the TV. HDMI 4 is stupidly not directly accessible by universal remotes (harmony, etc...)



NOTE: ARC also cannot pass 7.1 audio currently, but it can do DD+ (IIRC). So if your goal is to go for immersive audio, a new HDMI receiver is a must.



If you do upgrade receivers, ensure that it does 4k HDR passthrough, just just HDMI passthrough.


I’ve been doing 5.1 for years but after our recent home remodel I really don’t have an option for mounting rear speakers. So at least for now I’m using 2 fronts, center, and sub.

As for tv apps, yes I use Netflix occasionally. But I have no problem getting sound through my AVR. And I currently don’t use HDMI 4. But my goal is to get the best sound possible.


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post #24133 of 24353 Old 01-25-2020, 12:37 PM
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I’ve been doing 5.1 for years but after our recent home remodel I really don’t have an option for mounting rear speakers. So at least for now I’m using 2 fronts, center, and sub.

As for tv apps, yes I use Netflix occasionally. But I have no problem getting sound through my AVR. And I currently don’t use HDMI 4. But my goal is to get the best sound possible.


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so the sound quality won't change between optical and using HDMI (number of channels not withstanding). so at this point, unless you just really want to go to an HDMI receiver, I prob wouldn't bother with the upgrade if your receiver is working fine.

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post #24134 of 24353 Old 01-29-2020, 09:21 AM
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recently, i have noticed my display going black/blank when using my NVIDIA shield, especially while using Netflix. It doesn't seem to do it while watching an actual movie/show, however. I have seen this once or twice with a few other apps (plex/amazon).

The shield is routed through an Onkyo receiver.

Thinking it might be the shield or the onkyo, I power cycled both. no change.

Then, I saw it happen at least once with a cable box connected directly to the One Connect.

My TV power cycles completely off when I'm not using it with a zwave outlet. So it's being rebooted all the time.

I have searched through this thread and found a few possible references to it, but no definite solution found. I remember seeing more discussion on it. Was there ever a end state? i.e. one connect dying, one connect cable bad/loose, etc? I'm going to reseat all of the cables tonight, see if it goes away.

The annoying part is that it doesn't happen very often, or consistently.


UPDATE: it was a bad HDMI cable. Connector had become worn and wouldn't seat 100%.

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post #24135 of 24353 Old 01-29-2020, 07:08 PM
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recently, i have noticed my display going black/blank when using my NVIDIA shield, especially while using Netflix. It doesn't seem to do it while watching an actual movie/show, however. I have seen this once or twice with a few other apps (plex/amazon).



The shield is routed through an Onkyo receiver.



Thinking it might be the shield or the onkyo, I power cycled both. no change.



Then, I saw it happen at least once with a cable box connected directly to the One Connect.



My TV power cycles completely off when I'm not using it with a zwave outlet. So it's being rebooted all the time.



I have searched through this thread and found a few possible references to it, but no definite solution found. I remember seeing more discussion on it. Was there ever a end state? i.e. one connect dying, one connect cable bad/loose, etc? I'm going to reseat all of the cables tonight, see if it goes away.



The annoying part is that it doesn't happen very often, or consistently.
I've been having a similar problem. Funny enough, also usually through an Onkyo, so i was starting to wonder...

Picture drops out but audio keeps playing. Happens completely randomly and usually only for a second or two tops. Might be days between occurrences.

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post #24136 of 24353 Old 01-30-2020, 06:03 AM
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I've been having a similar problem. Funny enough, also usually through an Onkyo, so i was starting to wonder...

Picture drops out but audio keeps playing. Happens completely randomly and usually only for a second or two tops. Might be days between occurrences.

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I haven't noticed if there's audio. this doesn't seem to happen while I'm watching a movie, except when it happened while watching cable just one time. During that, there was no audio while the screen was blank. It happens pretty fast.

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post #24137 of 24353 Old 01-30-2020, 03:47 PM
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hello
i have 55js8000 and i may have accidentally changed type in general section in service menu and it seems to changed picture quality. may have changed some other settings as well.
can factory resetting from service menu fix those and return to purchase states?
or it turns to raw uncalibrated set?
is it safe to factory reset in service menu and what it changes?
tnx
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post #24138 of 24353 Old 01-30-2020, 10:32 PM
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hello
i have 55js8000 and i may have accidentally changed type in general section in service menu and it seems to changed picture quality. may have changed some other settings as well.
can factory resetting from service menu fix those and return to purchase states?
or it turns to raw uncalibrated set?
is it safe to factory reset in service menu and what it changes?
tnx
AFAIK it isn't safe to factory reset in service mode if you have made changes in service mode. That's a good way to brick your tv. You need to find out what the service menu values need to be and re input them. I don't have a 55 inch JS8500 so I can't help you there.

Good Luck.
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post #24139 of 24353 Old 01-31-2020, 02:39 AM
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AFAIK it isn't safe to factory reset in service mode if you have made changes in service mode. That's a good way to brick your tv. You need to find out what the service menu values need to be and re input them. I don't have a 55 inch JS8500 so I can't help you there.

Good Luck.
thanks
anybody with 55js8000 service menu values?
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post #24140 of 24353 Old 02-04-2020, 10:17 AM
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While I understand that the JS8500 is edge lit, can anyone tell me if this is "normal" or would be considered "light bleed"?
(Please excuse the distortion/window screen effect - using a cell camera)
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post #24141 of 24353 Old 02-04-2020, 12:36 PM
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While I understand that the JS8500 is edge lit, can anyone tell me if this is "normal" or would be considered "light bleed"?
(Please excuse the distortion/window screen effect - using a cell camera)

If it's not the camera emphasizing it, that seems a little excessive.
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post #24142 of 24353 Old 02-04-2020, 01:02 PM
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While I understand that the JS8500 is edge lit, can anyone tell me if this is "normal" or would be considered "light bleed"?
(Please excuse the distortion/window screen effect - using a cell camera)
That is definitely a defect, exactly the same as what happened to my TV & to the same extent.

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post #24143 of 24353 Old 02-04-2020, 01:20 PM
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Just to reiterate, we're talking about the light emanating from the edges, and not the screen-door effect that the cell camera is making up, right?
(the screen door effect is not seen in person, only through the camera)
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post #24144 of 24353 Old 02-04-2020, 01:22 PM
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Just to reiterate, we're talking about the light emanating from the edges, and not the screen-door effect that the cell camera is making up, right?
(the screen door effect is not seen in person, only through the camera)
100% the light bleed mate, mine got noticeably worse over time to the point of distraction.

Theatre - Sony 65" A8F OLED, Pioneer SC-LX59 9.2 Receiver, Oppo UDP-203 UHD Blu-Ray Player, Klipsch R820F Fronts, Klipsch R-52C Centre, Klipsch R-51 Surrounds, Klipsch R-100SW Sub x2, ELAC Debut A4 Atmos Modules setup as 5.2.4, Sony PS4 Pro, Logitech Harmony Elite.
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post #24145 of 24353 Old 02-04-2020, 02:12 PM
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Ok, so at least I'm not crazy. I feel like I've been noticing those bands around the sides more and more lately. And with the extended (Square Trade) warranty expiring this summer, probably time for me to start looking into an exchange.
Thanks!
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post #24146 of 24353 Old 02-04-2020, 02:18 PM
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Yes, it'll get worse gradually. Mine started off like that. Now it's projecting out like a flame towards the middle of the screen.

KDL40S2000 (still in use), UN55D7000 (10+ dead pixels, returned), TC-L32DT30 (still in use), KDL55HX820 (sold), 55JU7500 (cracked screen OOB, returned), 55JS8500 (light bleeding, returned after shady dealing by Samsung which involved BBB), OLED65C9PUA
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post #24147 of 24353 Old 02-04-2020, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by LiamSevier View Post
Ok, so at least I'm not crazy. I feel like I've been noticing those bands around the sides more and more lately. And with the extended (Square Trade) warranty expiring this summer, probably time for me to start looking into an exchange.
Thanks!
Definitely not crazy bud. It's a shame that these TV's have an obvious design flaw because from new, it was a great TV. I would be engaging your Square Trade Warranty for sure.

Theatre - Sony 65" A8F OLED, Pioneer SC-LX59 9.2 Receiver, Oppo UDP-203 UHD Blu-Ray Player, Klipsch R820F Fronts, Klipsch R-52C Centre, Klipsch R-51 Surrounds, Klipsch R-100SW Sub x2, ELAC Debut A4 Atmos Modules setup as 5.2.4, Sony PS4 Pro, Logitech Harmony Elite.
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post #24148 of 24353 Old 02-06-2020, 11:08 PM
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Definitely not crazy bud. It's a shame that these TV's have an obvious design flaw because from new, it was a great TV. I would be engaging your Square Trade Warranty for sure.
First 2 years I thought I dodged a bullet with my set. Year 3, started to see a little bit of a bleed but not anything distracting. Talked to Samsung, told out of warranty and the repair/exchange costs would be exorbitant since they refused to acknowledge there was a wide-spanning problem. Now, it flares about half a foot into the screen. Didn't get a warranty with Best Buy.

KDL40S2000 (still in use), UN55D7000 (10+ dead pixels, returned), TC-L32DT30 (still in use), KDL55HX820 (sold), 55JU7500 (cracked screen OOB, returned), 55JS8500 (light bleeding, returned after shady dealing by Samsung which involved BBB), OLED65C9PUA
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post #24149 of 24353 Old 02-07-2020, 10:03 AM
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I have the Costco version of this set from 2105. Is it possible to have YouTube TV on this tv?
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post #24150 of 24353 Old 02-07-2020, 11:35 AM
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I have the Costco version of this set from 2105. Is it possible to have YouTube TV on this tv?


I don’t think so, but why would you want it anyway? The apps in this TV are slow. Samsung already stopped supporting them.

There are many good devices out there which can stream YouTube TV for very little money and they do a much better job than Samsung.


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