"Official" 2015 Sony XBR-75X850C - Ultra HD 4K LED 3D HDTV Owners Thread - Page 38 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1111 of 1128 Old 12-21-2016, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 400MHz MAN View Post
Enhanced = 6Gbps timiming
Standard = 3Gbps


You can have 3Gbps and 6Gbps HDR timings.


The PS4 Pro will do HDR @ 3Gbps and 6Gbps.


There might be a setting on the C61 that also needs to change.
So if I leave the setting at Standard then the STR-1050 should allow for 4K pass through? Also, how do I check to see if I have the Marshmallow package. Also, sorry to ask so many questions. Is this TV RVU ready/compatible with Directv's 4K programming? If so, how does it work? Directv seems to be clueless on this matter
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post #1112 of 1128 Old 12-21-2016, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy sullivan View Post
So if I leave the setting at Standard then the STR-1050 should allow for 4K pass through? Also, how do I check to see if I have the Marshmallow package. Also, sorry to ask so many questions. Is this TV RVU ready/compatible with Directv's 4K programming? If so, how does it work? Directv seems to be clueless on this matter

andy, I am not sure on what timing the C61 wants to output. If it is looking to output the 6Gbps timings you will need to connect it directly to the TV.


Here is an article on the esupport site that explains more about the DirecTV client (application) on the TV. To use this app the TV must be connected to your network with a wired network connection. You would launch the app "DIRECTV READY" and then follow the below kb article. Please note you might need to delete the C61 as a client to allow the TV to use that clients authorization, with DTV you have to pay a monthly fee for each client that is setup. I am not sure whether the replacing the client can be done without DTV support.


https://us.en.kb.sony.com/app/answer...d3A2MWtJNm4%3D
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post #1113 of 1128 Old 12-28-2016, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rgathright View Post
I had my 75" working with a wired internet setup before, but it will not work now. It will connect to my router wireless, but not wired. I have checked all of my cables, connections and the router. I even bypassed everything and connected the TV straight to my modem with a cable run across the room. It still will not work.

Any suggestions??
I am having the same problem. Can connect wireless but cannot connect with a wired connection.

I am not sure if it is related but I did recently update to the latest TV software. The problem happened after that update but I cannot say for sure that this is what has caused the issue.

Have you made any progress in resolving your issue?

Thanks.
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post #1114 of 1128 Old 12-28-2016, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ZappaFan View Post
I am having the same problem. Can connect wireless but cannot connect with a wired connection.

I am not sure if it is related but I did recently update to the latest TV software. The problem happened after that update but I cannot say for sure that this is what has caused the issue.

Have you made any progress in resolving your issue?

Thanks.
I think I had to do a hard reboot on the TV to get it back working again.

Sony XBR-75X850C - Living Room
Samsung UN60J6300AFXZA - Bedroom
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post #1115 of 1128 Old 12-28-2016, 06:58 PM
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Thanks for the reply. Did the hard reboot wipe out any custom settings you configured?

I custom set all my picture adjustments and other things that I can't even remember at this point. I don't want to lose all that is possible.

Thanks again.
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post #1116 of 1128 Old 12-28-2016, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZappaFan View Post
Thanks for the reply. Did the hard reboot wipe out any custom settings you configured?

I custom set all my picture adjustments and other things that I can't even remember at this point. I don't want to lose all that is possible.

Thanks again.
Hard reboot won't touch any settings.

Long press on Sony remote power button until TV starts it's power cycle.

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2015 Sony X850C FAQ: Recommended Picture settings, 3D FAQ, HDR FAQ, DirecTV 4K Ready FAQ, Troubleshooting & common problems; Dropbox Link || Alternate Google Drive FAQ Link. || My gear: TV - Sony XBR75X850C, BD - Sony BDP S350, AVR - Pioneer VSX-1020, Speakers - RBH MC-616C MKII Center Channel, RBH MC-6C MKII Bookshelf (fronts), RBH MC-615 In-ceiling surrounds, RBH TS-10AP 200W self-powered sub.
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post #1117 of 1128 Old 12-29-2016, 10:12 AM
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Perfect, that worked. Thanks again.
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post #1118 of 1128 Old 01-01-2017, 10:44 PM
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Netflix App/Autoprogram problems

On my 75” x850c, While I’m watching TV through my cable box connected to HDMI1, every 10-15 minutes or so I get a gray box popping up – “Search for channels – Find channels to start watching.” With a Search button. I believe this is part of autoprogram, but I don’t have any antenna directly connected. Is there a way to permanently disable it? For now, all I can do is click Home and go back to HDMI1.

It didn’t used to happen, but now happens if I watch Amazon Prime or Netflix and then switch to HDMI1/Cable TV without having the TV off for a long time.

Additionally, yesterday my Netflix app started saying it was having a connection error and telling me to check the connection with network setup (error 11). There were no problems with my connection. When I force stop, I just get a blank black screen. Is there a way to fix this? Do I have to delete and reinstall the app? How do I do that? Will I have to refind my login and pw?

Last edited by TheDaveMan; 01-01-2017 at 11:03 PM.
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post #1119 of 1128 Old 01-10-2017, 09:09 AM
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got it mounted!
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post #1120 of 1128 Old 01-10-2017, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by DoctorM View Post
I have long felt that Rtings misunderstood these settings, but it's not like Sony REALLY explains it well.

MotionFlow on True Cinema is, to my eye, a good setting for 24p content. It mildly reduces jutter by interpolation, but not to a degree that I can detect any SOE (and I'm pretty sensitive to it).

On the other hand, my testing of Cinemotion suggests that it is NOT for 24p content, but how the TV handles odd/variable framerates and interlaced (or mixed interlaced-progressive) material.

As far as I can tell, set to 'Off' the TV simply decombs interlacing. On 'Low' it appears to attempt something like IVTC. I believe it tries to recover the original framerate giving a more cinema-like motion.

On 'Medium' and 'High' it ALSO interpolates additional frames as MotionFlow set to Standard or Smooth does for 24p content, which may also give some SOE. I've also seen these higher settings leave more combing artifacts behind than 'Off'.

That's a bit of a simplification since Sony describes that it also handles atypical and variable framerates such as graphics and games.

The biggest problem I've seen is that on 'Medium' and 'High' this setting will occasionally mess with 24p content when it shouldn't and make the motion worse. I literally was watching a 24p movie where they panned across plain wooden stairs and it juddered. I could wind back and repeat it. It stopped when I set Cinemotion to Low.

My suggestions is MotionFlow on TrueCinema, and Cinemotion Low. If you see too many combing artifacts, set Cinemotion to Off.

You can try Cinemotion on Medium or High on inputs from a computer or game console. That's something I haven't tested, but should work since you aren't likely to have interlacing.
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Originally Posted by virtualrain View Post
If anyone cares, here are my settings after spending a few weeks tweaking and trying a variety of different settings on the 65"... obviously still very relevant info for 75" owners.

I'm curious if anyone disagrees with anything, can correct any obvious mis-understandings, or just wants to chime in with an opinion

It should be noted that my sources include:
- Mac Mini PLEX HTPC for TV and Movies
- PS4 for gaming and Bluray

I don't watch Cable/Satellite/Broadcast TV.

Unless otherwise noted, settings for both sources are the same.

Picture Mode: I've compared the Standard, Cinema (Pro/Home) and Game/Graphics modes. Of course, don't be fooled by the initial settings for each one, they can all be made to look the same. However, there are some subtle differences in behaviour and the settings available. Game and Graphics mode allow you to connect a computer that outputs 4:4:4 or 24-bit RGB. You can verify this by displaying single pixel red or magenta lines (there are lots of test patterns out there). 4:4:4 will preserve these lines perfectly. It seems other picture modes covert the signal to YCbCr 4:2:0 which will cause dithering and smearing of the single pixel red or magenta lines. Unfortunately the Game and Graphics modes have limited Motionflow settings (which probably keeps input lag to a minimum) so they're not really suitable for 24fps material. The only other difference between picture modes that I could find is that "Mastered in 4K" is only available in one of the Cinema modes. Hence, I use Cinema Pro (not sure why it's called "Pro" instead of Cinema 1?) for viewing content and Game Mode for PS4 Gaming.

Auto Picture Mode: I'm not sure if this works as expected. I will experiment with this more later.

Brightness: The brightness controls the backlight level and the difference between settings is subtle. The range is not vast. The difference between 20 and 30 is not that significant. The good thing is that this setting does not affect blacks, whites, or gamma, it's simply a backlight level. So I think this really comes down to personal taste for any given ambient light level. I prefer a bright picture, so I set mine at 30.

Light Sensor: I tried this but it seemed to dim the backlight even under the brightest conditions, so it's a failure in my opinion. I've currently got it disabled.

Contrast: Max it.

Gamma: (UPDATED): A negative setting (higher gamma) will crush your blacks, increasing the setting (lower gamma) will wash out your picture, remove contrast and blow your whites. The TV appears to be set for a gamma of 2.4 (-2) which I find is too dark (can crush blacks). A gamma of 2.2 better matches the other displays in my life. So I have it set at zero and instead use Black Level to ensure shadow details are set properly.

Black Level: I spent a lot of time fussing around with this before finding the ideal setting, you may want to do the same. You can use the Black level control to determine exactly how much shadow detail you want vs how contrasty you want the image. Lower black level means darker shadows and more contrast, higher black level means more details in the shadows at the expense of a more washed out picture. To adjust black level I use a combination of test patterns (like this one) and source material (the opening scene of Transformers AoE is perfect - the opening scene of Star Wars might be another one but I don't have a copy of that film). My preferred setting for movies which offers inky blacks without crushing shadow detail, is a setting of 30. On a black level test chart, that will make 3% black barely visible (or just above "Reference Black" at about 22). For Gaming I set it at 47 which provides a bit more detail in the shadows and it doesn't compromise contrast too much since games seem to have a higher contrast ratio (dynamic range?) anyway.

Black Adjust: This is exactly the same as lowering Black Level but in bigger steps. I suggest turning this off, and just adjusting black level using the slider.

Advanced Contrast Enhancer: I think this is the good old "dim the backlight for the credits" setting. I leave it on "Low" but I've yet to see it play a role. Perhaps its improved so much since my old set that it's working and I just can't tell... that would be cool.

Color Temperture: I'll probably annoy purists on this statement, but D65 calibration is just way too warm for my liking. It's probably because on a normal day, I spend almost all my waking hours looking at a display... whether it's my 4K Dell monitors at home, my Apple Thunderbolt display at work, my MacBook laptop display, my iPad display, or my iPhone display... and ALL of them are setup from the factory to what I'm guessing is somewhere between 7000-7500K. So anyone who works with mobile devices or Apple displays is going to think 6500K is too warm. So for me, and my environment full of 7000-7500K screens, "Neutral" is perfect color temperture for the TV in my household... Whites look white just like they do on all my other displays

Color: If you're a purist, you'll probably want to set the color at 50 and ignore "Live Color" however if you like punchy color like I do, then see the next setting. (BTW, if you want more saturation, I think you get better results using "Live Color" than "Color")

Live Color: I mention this here because to my eyes, it has a huge impact on the colors of the display. Purists will probably ignore this setting, but I purchased a Triluminous display for it's vibrant colors and this setting is what seems to bring it to life. It offers Low, Medium, and High, and Low is definitely enough to get some much needed color pop. To my eyes, without Live Color, red looks kind of orange. With Live Color, reds look they way they should. Pull up a color test pattern (like this rainbow one) and see for yourself what it can do to red and magenta in particular.

Other color settings: I leave Hue alone and haven't done any advanced color temperature settings. I think copying settings from those who've calibrated their display is probably going to make things randomly worse, not better, unless every TV ships from the factory out of calibration by exactly same amount (possible, I suppose, but unlikely). Color space... Auto is probably best. It should pick sRGB/BT.709 unless the source indicates otherwise.

Sharpness: I think it's common knowledge based on reviews etc. that a setting of 50 is neither sharpness or blurring and so that's the desired setting. While sharpness may sound like a good thing, it almost immediately introduces unwanted halos around edges. If you want to sharpen some details, use the Reality Creation instead.

Reality Creation: I played around with this a lot and as far as I can tell it adjusts the amount of micro-contrast. Anyone familiar with photo post-processing knows there's edge enhancement type sharpening (the control above) and micro-contrast enhancement. This control seems to be the latter. It's more subtle and provides a more pleasing result than "Sharpness" which can quickly cause halo artifacts on edges. The best way I found to adjust this is to pause the video on a frame full of detail that is clearly in-focus and then note what it does to enhance the contrast of the details. I found setting it on Manual and maxing out the Resolution slider and then switching between "Manual" and "Off" was the best way to observe the effect. After I could see what it was doing, I adjusted the Resolution slider down until it was helping but not over-doing it. To my eyes this was about 25 on the Resolution slider. I seriously doubt that many (maybe even any?) people will see this setting make much of a difference on video unless they really start looking for it, which means the movie is horrible and you should probably watch something else.

Mastered in 4K: This appears to be a setting that can make some Sony Blurays mastered in 4K look better, but I don't own any such Blurays so I can't comment on how good this is. It's on for no good reason. (Not available in Game Mode)

Random Noise reduction: This will undo any micro-contrast addition you make through Reality Creation. It effectively blurs fine edges to eliminate noise. So if you like what Reality Creation is doing, turn this off.

Digital Noise Reduction: This is probably a great setting for crappy macro-block happy cable signals, but I don't watch cable anymore so I turn this off.

Motionflow: I've gone on at length about this here lately. I suggest reading back through the last few pages of posts from me and others on this subject if you want to learn the background. My conclusion after exhaustive testing with multiple different types of moving objects on 24fps material is the following:
- Standard is the best setting I've found. It offers smooth motion interpolation without losing much sharpness.
- Smooth overdoes it and moving things can have artifacts or look blurry
- Clear lowers the backlight and offers no visible advantage to 24fps jerky motion that I can see
- True Cinema is the worst on a 24fps source so it's a real misnomer. rtings.com mentioned that this is the setting to use for reverse 3:2 pulldown (material that was once 24fps but telecined using 3:2 pulldown to playback at 30fps). This is old-school. Maybe use it for old DVDs or movies on cable?
- Custom allows you to set your own smoothness and clearness. Standard seems to be a bit of Smoothness (2 or 3).
- Off also looks horrible on 24fps material. It's great for Gaming.

Update: I've since found this great post on Sony Motion Control Settings.

CineMotion: This was called Film Mode up until a recent firmware update. Based on the on-screen instructions this appears to help with interlaced material. I have no such material but there really is no "Off" setting as even "Off" says it's doing something. I've left this on "High" out of ignorance more than anything. I'd love a clear explanation of what this is doing.

Update: There is an explanation here but I'm not sure that helps explain it. It would be nice if Sony or someone else could offer some best-practices settings advice based on content type (24fps movies vs. TV movies vs. sports, etc.) Maybe it's worth looking at the default motion control settings in each of Sony's predefined Picture Modes (Standard, vs. Sports, vs Cinema, etc.)?

Other: The only other settings I've made (through the Home Screen Settings App) that might be worth mentioning are Dynamic Range (set to Full) and Screen (Full pixel).

I have been back and forth on this also. I have been trying to understand which setting looks better out of "Standard" or "True Cinema" for Motionflow? Do you still stand with your statement that you like true cinema the most? Also, Im a bit confused on the Cinemotion settings also. I only watch blu ray movies. I play xbox one/ps4 games (which is rare lately). The blu ray movies I watch are 99% of the time the newest releases. Im not a fan of the soap opera effect like most, but definately dont like the jerkiness or judder during movies. Does the Smoothness setting help with this?

I have also been back and forth with the standard and cinema home picture settings. Standard offers a nice picture but seems too much extra going on with the sharpness higher, motionflow on standard and the black adjust and contrast enhancer on medium. I have found that the Neutral color is best to me. I did notice Cinema Home picture setting seems not as sharp as the standard im assuming due to the 50 vs 60 setting?

Im also a bit confused on the advanced contrast enhancer and black adjust is anyone would like to chime in. I did play with these settings and do see what they do somewhat to the picture. I paused a bluray movie during a brighter scene and played with both settings. just wondering what some of you guys have it set at? High seems too much on either, but low or medium seems like a nice compromise.

Wasnt sure whether to leave the noise reduction settings on auto either? Not sure if this has something to to with reality creation? Any advice on these settings would greatly be appreciated.

Live color? Medium or Low? advice?

thanks in advance.
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post #1121 of 1128 Old 02-01-2017, 10:28 AM
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Issue with HDMI Enhanced: No image

1st Issue:
4K Player: Samsung UBD-K8500
TV: Sony XBR75X850C
HDMI Cable (Link): Mediabridge HDMI Cable (35 Feet) - Supports [email protected], HDMI 2.0 Ready - UHD, 18Gbps
HDMI Port on TV: HDMI 2 (directly connected to player)

When I switch the HDMI input to Enhanced from Standard, there is no image. I am not sure why. Do I need to get a different cable?


2nd Issue:

Denon X5200
Components: PC etc.
HDMI Input: HDMI 1 on the TV

When I switch HDMI Port 1 to Enhanced, the PC automatically reverts to 1080p desktop from 4k (which is the default resolution). However when I switch the PC desktop to 4k, the TV goes blank.

Thoughts? Thank you!

[Home Theater] LINK
[Music Room] Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 40 Floorstanders | Receiver: Peachtree Audio Nova220SE
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post #1122 of 1128 Old 04-19-2017, 08:19 PM
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I don't know if anyone is monitoring this thread still, but I have an issue I hope someone can help me out with.

My 850c is no longer auto engaging HDR from outside sources like Xbox One S or Roku Ultra. It does auto engage from android tv apps, but not from outside sources.

HDMI is turned to enhanced, and it has worked in the past. Also I did a hard reset with no luck. Haven't done a factory reset, and really don't want to.

Any suggestions?
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post #1123 of 1128 Old 04-19-2017, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dick Fingers View Post
I don't know if anyone is monitoring this thread still, but I have an issue I hope someone can help me out with.

My 850c is no longer auto engaging HDR from outside sources like Xbox One S or Roku Ultra. It does auto engage from android tv apps, but not from outside sources.

HDMI is turned to enhanced, and it has worked in the past. Also I did a hard reset with no luck. Haven't done a factory reset, and really don't want to.

Any suggestions?
Ask your question in the main 850C thread. There are lots of smart people there, and there is nothing about your question that is specific to the 75" model.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

2015 Sony X850C FAQ: Recommended Picture settings, 3D FAQ, HDR FAQ, DirecTV 4K Ready FAQ, Troubleshooting & common problems; Dropbox Link || Alternate Google Drive FAQ Link. || My gear: TV - Sony XBR75X850C, BD - Sony BDP S350, AVR - Pioneer VSX-1020, Speakers - RBH MC-616C MKII Center Channel, RBH MC-6C MKII Bookshelf (fronts), RBH MC-615 In-ceiling surrounds, RBH TS-10AP 200W self-powered sub.
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post #1124 of 1128 Old 04-20-2017, 05:25 AM
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Ask your question in the main 850C thread. There are lots of smart people there, and there is nothing about your question that is specific to the 75" model.

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Thank you. I will do that.
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post #1125 of 1128 Old 05-05-2017, 10:25 PM
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Dumb question, but I downloaded both Kodi and VLC...how do I connect them to my laptop(macbook) so I can stream stuff to my tv? Thanks.
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post #1126 of 1128 Old 11-14-2018, 08:45 AM
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Hey guys quick question? I'm still on version 5.1.1. Is there any reason to update from where I'm at? I've had the random reboots like most others mainly just either watching a movie or playing Xbox nothing more. That's basically the only issue I have ever had since I bought the TV. Thanks in advance
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post #1127 of 1128 Old 12-22-2018, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by nezff View Post
Hey guys quick question? I'm still on version 5.1.1. Is there any reason to update from where I'm at? I've had the random reboots like most others mainly just either watching a movie or playing Xbox nothing more. That's basically the only issue I have ever had since I bought the TV. Thanks in advance
In the spring of this year I updated my 75x850C from Android 5.x firmware to PKG5.381.0167NAB. I just noticed that there's now a newer update that came out in November, though I haven't updated to it yet. My TV has been very stable since the last update, the best out of all of the firmware versions that I've tried. I highly recommend updating to at least the version that I'm on, or perhaps looking into this latest version. I've only seen a bit of feedback so far, though it was positive.
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post #1128 of 1128 Old 02-13-2019, 12:58 PM
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anyone can recommend if I should get this TV used.. for $700 ? let me know if I am doing a very very big mistake or should I take a risk ?
let me know your thoughts.

Thanks.
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