Official Sony W800C Owner's Thread - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 210 Old 03-28-2016, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Glenshaw View Post
I've definitely been noticing the banding/dirty screen effect more recently. I don't know if it's getting worse or if I'm just looking for it more. It happens even if it's just a slight pan up or down. While it's not a big deal, it's enough to justify saying that the other shoe has dropped on the set. Additionally, when you've got a screen that's all one color, it's all uniform except for the right part of one of those band strips, which is faint but noticeable if you're looking for it. In looking online, it seems this is just a side effect of having a really thin screen, and nothing can be done for it.
We all have to keep in mind that we are looking for all this stuff and by doing so we magnify any and all issues and by doing that we are not enjoying the tv we spend our hard earned money on. At least I know I do this. Before I got this tv I had a 2013 samsung plasma which is now in another room. I obsessed over ever little thing for the longest time. It was either the tv wasnt bright enough, or it had a pinkish hue on a bright screen, it dithered too much, the buzzing sound was horrible, it wasnt sharp enough, the colors are fading,the list goes on and on. I wasted so much time obsessing over it that I missed out on a lot of enjoyment. I watch the tv now with the family on movie nights and I dont notice any of those issues. The tv is perfect in my eyes. Its super bright, no buzzing. I mean yes If I turned it on right now and "looked" for those things I would definitely see them and they would get worse. Our minds are super tricky and our eyes fool us. I not saying your wrong by any means. This is just my personal experience.
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post #32 of 210 Old 03-28-2016, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Paliv View Post
I just picked up this set last week when the price dropped. I must say that I'm really happy with it.

The brightness is really fine for a moderately lit room. I haven't watched it a lot in the morning when the room is brightest, but it seems to get plenty bright. We have it set at 21/50, just a touch above what rtings had for a dark room. It can get a lot brighter, out of the box it was pretty bright set up at 35. I would say unless you have a lot of sunlight this set is fine.

I'm very happy with the uniformity, the DSE and clouding/flashlighting are better than the w700B I got last year (a Best Buy exclusive that was a w800B minus 3D functionality, fantastic set for gaming). I was hopeful it would be on par, and nervous it would be an issue on a new set. Just a small amount of flashlighting in the bottom corners and almost no clouding. I have noticed an bit of DSE on panning shots, but it's a lot less than other sets I've seen.

I can't speak to lag since the gaming is all done on the w700B, but it sounds like it's up about 10ms from last year. I might throw Mario on there and at least see if it feels very perceptible.

Definitely worth the end of model year discount price.
Regarding gaming on the w800c.
I game a fair amount and it feels alot snappier than my previous set(Samsung plasma f5300 2013) I play Black ops 3 and ive been getting alot of kills. Even my wife said something the other day about it responding faster without me asking which is surprising because I doubt she would notice if I switched the tv out for a 2005 cheap tv. Haha. But I definitely notice the lower input lag. But do keep in mind the plasma had a input lag anywhere between 50-70ms on different websites. The w800c is rated at 37.5ms?
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post #33 of 210 Old 03-28-2016, 06:57 PM
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I wish everyone would post their personal calibration settings and lighting so we all can experiment a little more with different things. Maybe we can learn some stuff. It definitely will help this thread pick up a little.
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post #34 of 210 Old 03-28-2016, 07:02 PM
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I havent changed much settings.
My settings are.

Standard mode
Brightness(backlight) min-25
Contrast 90
Gamma 0
Black level 50
Black adjust low
Adv. Contrast enhancer off
Color 60
Hue 0
Color temp Neutral
Adv. Color temp Havent touched
Live color low
Sharpness 60
Reality creation Auto
Resolution 65
Random noise off
Digital Noise reduction off
Motion flow Standard
Cinemotion Off


I think it looks good this way but im open to try different settings if anyone wants to help
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post #35 of 210 Old 03-28-2016, 07:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasma5300 View Post
I wish everyone would post their personal calibration settings and lighting so we all can experiment a little more with different things. Maybe we can learn some stuff. It definitely will help this thread pick up a little.
My calibration settings are in my sig, but I'll put them long-form here. I saved them in an excel file. I usually update them ~6 months to compensate for usage. I have two settings; one for Blu-ray/streaming and the other for straight gaming. For patterns, I used Spears & Munsil, Disney's WoW, and AVS HD 709. For software, I use HCFR.

In my sig, there are more detailed calibration results from HCFR which will show the average delta, color temp, gamma, and the usual stuff.

I calibrated 2 KDL-55W800C's and all the settings matched up until the advanced color settings, so they seem to be pretty uniform in the uber-small sample size I observed.

Blu-ray (53.5ms lag)
Picture Mode: Cinema home
Light sensor: off

Brightness: 4 (120cm/m2 is between 4 and 5)
Contrast: 99
Gamma: -2
Black level: 50
Black adjust: Off
Adv. Contrast enhancer: Off

Color: 58
Hue: 0
Color temperature: Expert 1
Live Color: Off
Sharpness: 40
Reality Creation: Auto
Random noise reduction: Off
Digital noise reduction: Off

Motionflow: Off
CineMotion: High

Adv. color temperature
R-Gain: Max
G-Gain: Max
B-Gain: Max
R-Bias: 4
G-Bias: 0
B-Bias: -12

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 10
R-Offset: 5
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: -5

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 9
R-Offset: 5
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: -2

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 8
R-Offset: 5
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 1

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 7
R-Offset: 2
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 4

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 6
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 4

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 5
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 2

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 4
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 2

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 3
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 5

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 2
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: -1
B-Offset: -6

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 1
R-Offset: -4
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 19

Gaming (36.4ms lag)
Picture Mode: Game
Light sensor: Off

Brightness: 4 (120cm/m2 is between 4 and 5)
Contrast: 99
Gamma: -2
Black level: 50
Black adjust: Off
Adv. Contrast enhancer: Off

Color: 54
Hue: 0
Color temperature: Expert 1
Live Color: Off
Sharpness: 40
Reality Creation: Off
Random noise reduction: Off
Digital noise reduction: Off

Motionflow: Off
CineMotion: Off

all the Adv. color temperature is the same as above

EDIT: These settings be old, mate.

Sony KDL-55W800C | Marantz SR5010 | HSU HB-1 MK2 | HSU VTF-1 MK2
KDL-55W800C Calibration (Updated 4/2020)

Last edited by wanderjahr; 08-23-2016 at 02:21 AM.
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post #36 of 210 Old 03-28-2016, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenshaw View Post
I've definitely been noticing the banding/dirty screen effect more recently. I don't know if it's getting worse or if I'm just looking for it more. It happens even if it's just a slight pan up or down. While it's not a big deal, it's enough to justify saying that the other shoe has dropped on the set. Additionally, when you've got a screen that's all one color, it's all uniform except for the right part of one of those band strips, which is faint but noticeable if you're looking for it. In looking online, it seems this is just a side effect of having a really thin screen, and nothing can be done for it.
My set has a stuck blue subpixel at the bottom. Found it within 5 minutes of turning it on the first time. I literally have to be 12" away to notice it. In fact, the only time I can ever actually see it is when I put up a 100% blue test pattern. I almost replaced it, but got a partial refund instead. Point is, it never actually matters because it's more in my head than on the screen. Like you said, I'm looking for it. My gf has never noticed it and I've never told her about it because I'm curious if she'll ever notice.

Maybe have a blind test and see if anybody else can notice it. Just don't lead them on, see if they notice organically. If not, I wouldn't worry about it. No screen is perfect.

Sony KDL-55W800C | Marantz SR5010 | HSU HB-1 MK2 | HSU VTF-1 MK2
KDL-55W800C Calibration (Updated 4/2020)
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post #37 of 210 Old 03-28-2016, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderjahr View Post
My set has a stuck blue subpixel at the bottom. Found it within 5 minutes of turning it on the first time. I literally have to be 12" away to notice it. In fact, the only time I can ever actually see it is when I put up a 100% blue test pattern. I almost replaced it, but got a partial refund instead. Point is, it never actually matters because it's more in my head than on the screen. Like you said, I'm looking for it. My gf has never noticed it and I've never told her about it because I'm curious if she'll ever notice.

Maybe have a blind test and see if anybody else can notice it. Just don't lead them on, see if they notice organically. If not, I wouldn't worry about it. No screen is perfect.
True story
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post #38 of 210 Old 03-29-2016, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderjahr View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paliv View Post
the DSE and clouding/flashlighting are better than the w700B I got last year (a Best Buy exclusive that was a w800B minus 3D functionality, fantastic set for gaming).
I think Europe had some W800C models sans 3D. I wish they had them stateside. I would have been more than happy to pay less and do without it.

EDIT: Yeah, Europe has the W755C series which has no 3D and a matte black metal stand. Would MUCH prefer that

I've had my set for about 10 days now and my impressions are pretty favorable. Sony has definitely improved their CineMotion algorithms and the 10-point gamma control is a welcome addition. I just wish there were more people active in the threads so we could have a bigger sample size if there are issues that could potentially pop up over time.
Yeah, I would have taken a cheaper non-3D model as well. I have never really cared for watching in 3D. That may be when he brightness is an issue. Also, maybe if you like to use the clearness setting to reduce motion blur. I don't like how much it dims the picture, even on the brighter W700B.

I had noticed the cinemotion seemed better to my eyes as well. It's the only motion feature I use, and one of the reasons I chose the Sony over other lower mid range sets.
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post #39 of 210 Old 03-29-2016, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderjahr View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenshaw View Post
I've definitely been noticing the banding/dirty screen effect more recently. I don't know if it's getting worse or if I'm just looking for it more. It happens even if it's just a slight pan up or down. While it's not a big deal, it's enough to justify saying that the other shoe has dropped on the set. Additionally, when you've got a screen that's all one color, it's all uniform except for the right part of one of those band strips, which is faint but noticeable if you're looking for it. In looking online, it seems this is just a side effect of having a really thin screen, and nothing can be done for it.
My set has a stuck blue subpixel at the bottom. Found it within 5 minutes of turning it on the first time. I literally have to be 12" away to notice it. In fact, the only time I can ever actually see it is when I put up a 100% blue test pattern. I almost replaced it, but got a partial refund instead. Point is, it never actually matters because it's more in my head than on the screen. Like you said, I'm looking for it. My gf has never noticed it and I've never told her about it because I'm curious if she'll ever notice.

Maybe have a blind test and see if anybody else can notice it. Just don't lead them on, see if they notice organically. If not, I wouldn't worry about it. No screen is perfect.
I definitely have noticed DSE, which you'll have to some degree or another with this type of panel. I only really notice it when I'm looking for it. Basically I've tried using it for the things I normally would (i.e. Movies, tv/sports and some gaming), and it hasn't had any glaring problems. If I try to look for flaws o know are inherent I can find some, but no set will be perfect.

On a side note: I tried playing some Mario and I didn't feel any super perceptible lag. I'm by no means an expert platform player, but it seemed tight enough for me. It definitely seemed responsive enough that it wasn't a detriment.
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post #40 of 210 Old 03-29-2016, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderjahr View Post
My calibration settings are in my sig, but I'll put them long-form here. I saved them in an excel file. I usually update them ~6 months to compensate for usage. I have two settings; one for Blu-ray/streaming and the other for straight gaming. For patterns, I used Spears & Munsil, Disney's WoW, and AVS HD 709. For software, I use HCFR.

In my sig, there are more detailed calibration results from HCFR which will show the average delta, color temp, gamma, and the usual stuff.

I calibrated 2 KDL-55W800C's and all the settings matched up until the advanced color settings, so they seem to be pretty uniform in the uber-small sample size I observed.

Blu-ray (53.5ms lag)
Picture Mode: Cinema home
Light sensor: off

Brightness: 4 (120cm/m2 is between 4 and 5)
Contrast: 99
Gamma: -2
Black level: 50
Black adjust: Off
Adv. Contrast enhancer: Off

Color: 58
Hue: 0
Color temperature: Expert 1
Live Color: Off
Sharpness: 40
Reality Creation: Auto
Random noise reduction: Off
Digital noise reduction: Off

Motionflow: Off
CineMotion: High

Adv. color temperature
R-Gain: Max
G-Gain: Max
B-Gain: Max
R-Bias: 4
G-Bias: 0
B-Bias: -12

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 10
R-Offset: 5
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: -5

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 9
R-Offset: 5
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: -2

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 8
R-Offset: 5
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 1

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 7
R-Offset: 2
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 4

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 6
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 4

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 5
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 2

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 4
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 2

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 3
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 5

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 2
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: -1
B-Offset: -6

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 1
R-Offset: -4
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 19

Gaming (36.4ms lag)
Picture Mode: Game
Light sensor: Off

Brightness: 4 (120cm/m2 is between 4 and 5)
Contrast: 99
Gamma: -2
Black level: 50
Black adjust: Off
Adv. Contrast enhancer: Off

Color: 54
Hue: 0
Color temperature: Expert 1
Live Color: Off
Sharpness: 40
Reality Creation: Off
Random noise reduction: Off
Digital noise reduction: Off

Motionflow: Off
CineMotion: Off

all the Adv. color temperature is the same as above
Do you always keep the backlight at 4? Or is that for a dark room?
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post #41 of 210 Old 03-29-2016, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasma5300 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderjahr View Post
My calibration settings are in my sig, but I'll put them long-form here. I saved them in an excel file. I usually update them ~6 months to compensate for usage. I have two settings; one for Blu-ray/streaming and the other for straight gaming. For patterns, I used Spears & Munsil, Disney's WoW, and AVS HD 709. For software, I use HCFR.

In my sig, there are more detailed calibration results from HCFR which will show the average delta, color temp, gamma, and the usual stuff.

I calibrated 2 KDL-55W800C's and all the settings matched up until the advanced color settings, so they seem to be pretty uniform in the uber-small sample size I observed.

Blu-ray (53.5ms lag)
Picture Mode: Cinema home
Light sensor: off

Brightness: 4 (120cm/m2 is between 4 and 5)
Contrast: 99
Gamma: -2
Black level: 50
Black adjust: Off
Adv. Contrast enhancer: Off

Color: 58
Hue: 0
Color temperature: Expert 1
Live Color: Off
Sharpness: 40
Reality Creation: Auto
Random noise reduction: Off
Digital noise reduction: Off

Motionflow: Off
CineMotion: High

Adv. color temperature
R-Gain: Max
G-Gain: Max
B-Gain: Max
R-Bias: 4
G-Bias: 0
B-Bias: -12

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 10
R-Offset: 5
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: -5

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 9
R-Offset: 5
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: -2

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 8
R-Offset: 5
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 1

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 7
R-Offset: 2
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 4

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 6
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 4

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 5
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 2

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 4
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 2

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 3
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 5

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 2
R-Offset: 0
G-Offset: -1
B-Offset: -6

Color Gamma Adjustment Points 1
R-Offset: -4
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 19

Gaming (36.4ms lag)
Picture Mode: Game
Light sensor: Off

Brightness: 4 (120cm/m2 is between 4 and 5)
Contrast: 99
Gamma: -2
Black level: 50
Black adjust: Off
Adv. Contrast enhancer: Off

Color: 54
Hue: 0
Color temperature: Expert 1
Live Color: Off
Sharpness: 40
Reality Creation: Off
Random noise reduction: Off
Digital noise reduction: Off

Motionflow: Off
CineMotion: Off

all the Adv. color temperature is the same as above
Do you always keep the backlight at 4? Or is that for a dark room?
I also thought this was low. Mine is set to 21 for a dimly lit room in he evening. Rtings had a target of 100 and had it set to 19 for a dark room (which I used as a starting point). It really makes me wonder about their comments on the brightness though. They seem to find "serious" problems with every set.
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post #42 of 210 Old 03-29-2016, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasma5300 View Post
Do you always keep the backlight at 4? Or is that for a dark room?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paliv View Post
I also thought this was low. Mine is set to 21 for a dimly lit room in he evening. Rtings had a target of 100 and had it set to 19 for a dark room (which I used as a starting point). It really makes me wonder about their comments on the brightness though. They seem to find "serious" problems with every set.
Yeah, 4 is in a dark room. I put that there because that's what I calibrated it at, which translates to 120cd/m2. Obviously, that value (4) is dependent on ambient light. I vary from 4 to 48. If you wanna be nit-picky 4 is ~117cd/m2 and 5 is ~123cd/m2. I aim for 120cd/m2 in dark rooms because that is generally the sweet spot for deep blacks and highest contrast.

I know what Rtings put, but I suspect they had light sensor enabled. To record the blacks that they recorded, they would either have to have light sensor or adv. contrast enhancer enabled (or maybe both). Also, their 10-gamma scale doesn't make any sense, or if it does, their set was defective. If you plot the values on a graph for a properly calibrated 10-point gamma scale, they should read pretty smooth. One value should not jump wildly like a seismograph. In their case, the values for the lower end jump up and down and back up. That either tells me they had a bad screen, that they didn't have good settings in-place before the 10-point gamma settings (which should be done last) or they went in the wrong order, dark to light instead of light to dark.

Who knows though, they used "Custom" picture mode and I used "Cinema-home" so there will necessarily be discrepancies between numbers. I will concede that "Custom" picture mode generally gives the best picture iq and tightest calibration. I went the lazy route so I could use Auto Picture Mode [Auto 24p sync] and make my life easier switching. That being the case, my numbers clocked in well under a margin of concern, so I stuck with it. I could switch to "Custom" but the returns would be diminishing.

Sony KDL-55W800C | Marantz SR5010 | HSU HB-1 MK2 | HSU VTF-1 MK2
KDL-55W800C Calibration (Updated 4/2020)
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post #43 of 210 Old 03-29-2016, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderjahr View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasma5300 View Post
Do you always keep the backlight at 4? Or is that for a dark room?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paliv View Post
I also thought this was low. Mine is set to 21 for a dimly lit room in he evening. Rtings had a target of 100 and had it set to 19 for a dark room (which I used as a starting point). It really makes me wonder about their comments on the brightness though. They seem to find "serious" problems with every set.
Yeah, 4 is in a dark room. I put that there because that's what I calibrated it at, which translates to 120cd/m2. Obviously, that value (4) is dependent on ambient light. I vary from 4 to 48. If you wanna be nit-picky 4 is ~117cd/m2 and 5 is ~123cd/m2. I aim for 120cd/m2 in dark rooms because that is generally the sweet spot for deep blacks and highest contrast.

I know what Rtings put, but I suspect they had light sensor enabled. To record the blacks that they recorded, they would either have to have light sensor or adv. contrast enhancer enabled (or maybe both). Also, their 10-gamma scale doesn't make any sense, or if it does, their set was defective. If you plot the values on a graph for a properly calibrated 10-point gamma scale, they should read pretty smooth. One value should not jump wildly like a seismograph. In their case, the values for the lower end jump up and down and back up. That either tells me they had a bad screen, that they didn't have good settings in-place before the 10-point gamma settings (which should be done last) or they went in the wrong order, dark to light instead of light to dark.

Who knows though, they used "Custom" picture mode and I used "Cinema-home" so there will necessarily be discrepancies between numbers. I will concede that "Custom" picture mode generally gives the best picture iq and tightest calibration. I went the lazy route so I could use Auto Picture Mode [Auto 24p sync] and make my life easier switching. That being the case, my numbers clocked in well under a margin of concern, so I stuck with it. I could switch to "Custom" but the returns would be diminishing.
I don't have the equipment to do the advanced color correction and my wife and I really aren't as sensitive to it, though I've always been interested.

I have a feeling this set's brightness is more similar to my other Sony after hearing how your calibration went. I don't use any black correction or auto contrast settings and I think it's pretty bright. Thanks for sharing your experience.
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post #44 of 210 Old 03-29-2016, 05:32 PM
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Hey everybody!

So I recently bought the KDL55W800C and I love it! However, this is my first TV purchase in about a decade or so... so I'm not accustomed to changing a lot of settings and what not...

Right now I have all of the picture settings set to their defaults...

I was originally going to set my TV according to RTINGS recommendations... but in the midst of my searching I found this AVForums video about picture settings for this set on YouTube...

I'm not able to post links here yet though...

Anyway, what do you guys think of the RTINGS settings and the AVForum settings from YouTube?

I'm interested in looking into wanderjahr's settings too. Thanks!
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post #45 of 210 Old 03-30-2016, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Rapha'el Ben Yisra'el View Post
Hey everybody!

So I recently bought the KDL55W800C and I love it! However, this is my first TV purchase in about a decade or so... so I'm not accustomed to changing a lot of settings and what not...

Right now I have all of the picture settings set to their defaults...

I was originally going to set my TV according to RTINGS recommendations... but in the midst of my searching I found this AVForums video about picture settings for this set on YouTube...

I'm not able to post links here yet though...

Anyway, what do you guys think of the RTINGS settings and the AVForum settings from YouTube?

I'm interested in looking into wanderjahr's settings too. Thanks!
My mistake, the AVForum YouTube video was actual for a different model... so nvm that...

But, I'm going to go ahead and try out RTINGS settings first and see how I like those...
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post #46 of 210 Old 04-01-2016, 01:49 AM
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I game on this set and was wondering if anyone else that games sets motionflow on or off also if they use cinemotion? Im currently using motionflow set to standard and Cinemotion off while playing ps4
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post #47 of 210 Old 04-01-2016, 05:08 AM
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I game on this set and was wondering if anyone else that games sets motionflow on or off also if they use cinemotion? Im currently using motionflow set to standard and Cinemotion off while playing ps4
If you use the clearness setting you won't add any lag, but the smoothness setting will add some. Personally I prefer to leave it all turned off. Cinemotion shouldn't do anything unless you're watching a blu Ray that puts out a 24 fps signal, I believe. So if you use the ps4 for movies you may want to leave that on.
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Has anyone run an update for their set? I've never had a set where anything like this mattered, so have not done that before. I also don't have the internet in my home, so if I would do that, it would be via USB. Do such updates correct picture flaws such as the persistent banding when an image pans (which I mentioned earlier in this thread)? I'd be hesitant to run an update for fear it could mess up something, but if it could correct the banding, I would try it.

The banding really seems like it's gotten worse over the three months I've used this. You get the horizontal lines not only when you have a vertical pan, but also when an image that's of middle brightness (such as a hand) moves up and down on the screen. Then whenever you have middle brightness on the right side of the screen, the right side of the lower band is very clear.
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post #49 of 210 Old 04-02-2016, 05:31 AM
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Has anyone run an update for their set? I've never had a set where anything like this mattered, so have not done that before. I also don't have the internet in my home, so if I would do that, it would be via USB. Do such updates correct picture flaws such as the persistent banding when an image pans (which I mentioned earlier in this thread)? I'd be hesitant to run an update for fear it could mess up something, but if it could correct the banding, I would try it.

The banding really seems like it's gotten worse over the three months I've used this. You get the horizontal lines not only when you have a vertical pan, but also when an image that's of middle brightness (such as a hand) moves up and down on the screen. Then whenever you have middle brightness on the right side of the screen, the right side of the lower band is very clear.
I have updated mine, though I did it as soon as I got it. I don't know if an update can fix banding, it's more a result of how the screen is built than a processing issue if I understand it correctly. It varies from panel to panel and I've definitely seen complaints for it on the forums of higher end sets. But ask around, hopefully someone more knowledgable has a more thorough answer for you.
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post #50 of 210 Old 04-02-2016, 08:01 AM
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Anyone else having issues where movies will randomly pause themselves while streaming?

Also, the TV's volume adjusting itself on it's own?
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post #51 of 210 Old 04-02-2016, 10:24 AM
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I have updated mine, though I did it as soon as I got it. I don't know if an update can fix banding, it's more a result of how the screen is built than a processing issue if I understand it correctly. It varies from panel to panel and I've definitely seen complaints for it on the forums of higher end sets. But ask around, hopefully someone more knowledgable has a more thorough answer for you.
Right, that's what I'm finding when looking this up now, that stuff like flashlighting and banding are just caused by the screens being too thin and edge lit. I wanted a 1080p set to match BD resolution, but now I kind of wish I had gone for a FALD set. However, I wanted the opportunity for 3D and the headphone jack which this had. I can't figure out if the banding is getting worse, but as long as it doesn't get worse than it is or develop stuck pixels, the set should be okay. I wonder if the weather has anything to do with these matters. I started using it when it was cold and didn't really notice these issues as much.
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post #52 of 210 Old 04-03-2016, 08:57 AM
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Does anyone get a line down the left and/or right edge of the screen, particularly when watching a BD or DVD? It's right near the edge. It only happens when your input is set on Full Pixel, and only noticeable when viewing a background that is lighter, or on the portions of the edge that are lighter. The line sometimes isn't solid either. Put your set on Full Pixel and look under those conditions and let me know. I can't figure out why this line is coming up, whether it's a line that's already on the very edge of the disc's image or if it's a processing issue.
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post #53 of 210 Old 04-04-2016, 03:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Plasma5300 View Post
I game on this set and was wondering if anyone else that games sets motionflow on or off also if they use cinemotion? Im currently using motionflow set to standard and Cinemotion off while playing ps4
I tried measuring the lag with Motionflow for you, but because it interpolates/repeats frames, I was getting inaccurate results. At a minimum, it's ~55ms of lag; ~20ms of more lag than Game mode.

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Originally Posted by Rapha'el Ben Yisra'el View Post
Anyone else having issues where movies will randomly pause themselves while streaming?

Also, the TV's volume adjusting itself on it's own?
Does the volume have something to do with dynamic scaling? I know some audio modes will dynamically adjust the volume, which can sometimes (most times) be inaccurate.

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Originally Posted by Glenshaw View Post
Does anyone get a line down the left and/or right edge of the screen, particularly when watching a BD or DVD? It's right near the edge. It only happens when your input is set on Full Pixel, and only noticeable when viewing a background that is lighter, or on the portions of the edge that are lighter. The line sometimes isn't solid either. Put your set on Full Pixel and look under those conditions and let me know. I can't figure out why this line is coming up, whether it's a line that's already on the very edge of the disc's image or if it's a processing issue.
Does [Settings > Picture & Display > Screen > Screen position] help at all?

What are your screen settings?

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post #54 of 210 Old 04-04-2016, 04:51 PM
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I tried measuring the lag with Motionflow for you, but because it interpolates/repeats frames, I was getting inaccurate results. At a minimum, it's ~55ms of lag; ~20ms of more lag than Game mode.



Does the volume have something to do with dynamic scaling? I know some audio modes will dynamically adjust the volume, which can sometimes (most times) be inaccurate.



Does [Settings > Picture & Display > Screen > Screen position] help at all?

What are your screen settings?
I tried Rayman legends on ps4 which runs at 60fps with motionflow off and its no where near as smooth as with motionflow set to standard. With it set to standard it looks super clear and smooth. Does this set have alot of blur with all interpolation off?
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Originally Posted by Plasma5300 View Post
I tried Rayman legends on ps4 which runs at 60fps with motionflow off and its no where near as smooth as with motionflow set to standard. With it set to standard it looks super clear and smooth. Does this set have alot of blur with all interpolation off?
Nah, it's not really that this set is better or worse with what your perceive as blur, it's just that the Motionflow is doing what you want it to do pretty well. Some people like it because it can smooth up judder in film by inserting extra frames. It can also insert frames in your gaming, yes, but at a cost of lag. It is also be less accurate with gaming because, unlike film, it can't predict what frame next (though it tries). Sometimes it looks smooth, but in high moving scenes, there are a lot of artifacts.

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post #56 of 210 Old 04-04-2016, 07:00 PM
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Nah, it's not really that this set is better or worse with what your perceive as blur, it's just that the Motionflow is doing what you want it to do pretty well. Some people like it because it can smooth up judder in film by inserting extra frames. It can also insert frames in your gaming, yes, but at a cost of lag. It is also be less accurate with gaming because, unlike film, it can't predict what frame next (though it tries). Sometimes it looks smooth, but in high moving scenes, there are a lot of artifacts.
I just got done playing Far cry primal on ps4 . I kept switching between motionflow off and motionflow standard I didnt notice any artifacts. Unless I dont know what to look for. Both settings looked the same except for with motionflow standard on things looked smoother like the game was running at a higher frame rate. Its natively locked at 30fps. Also I couldnt notice any lag, it felt the same on both settings. I find with the motionflow on my eyes can focus more with less eye strain. So when you say it adds artifacts, what am I looking for? Thank you
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I just got done playing Far cry primal on ps4 . I kept switching between motionflow off and motionflow standard I didnt notice any artifacts. Unless I dont know what to look for. Both settings looked the same except for with motionflow standard on things looked smoother like the game was running at a higher frame rate. Its natively locked at 30fps. Also I couldnt notice any lag, it felt the same on both settings. I find with the motionflow on my eyes can focus more with less eye strain. So when you say it adds artifacts, what am I looking for? Thank you
Artifacts would be noise around the edges of objects like trees or your character when in motion. It would be super noticeable on a racing game, but maybe not so noticeable on other types of games. The lag is probably somewhere ~50ms which is at the cusp of being noticeable for console gaming.

But if you don't notice it and you like how it looks and you don't notice the lag, then you're all good! That's the most important thing, haha. You're right though, It basically is running at a higher framerate. Kind of. It looks like it's running at a higher framerate. Sony's Motionflow is one of the better proprietary motion interpolation algorithms.

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Artifacts would be noise around the edges of objects like trees or your character when in motion. It would be super noticeable on a racing game, but maybe not so noticeable on other types of games. The lag is probably somewhere ~50ms which is at the cusp of being noticeable for console gaming.

But if you don't notice it and you like how it looks and you don't notice the lag, then you're all good! That's the most important thing, haha. You're right though, It basically is running at a higher framerate. Kind of. It looks like it's running at a higher framerate. Sony's Motionflow is one of the better proprietary motion interpolation algorithms.
Things actually look clearer, around edges, and sharp objects when its on. I even tried to trip it up by spinning around,jerking the camera around and it looks to handle it very well
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post #59 of 210 Old 04-06-2016, 05:35 PM
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Ok im back to report Id rather play with the motionflow off. Also I have a question about 60fps video games and motionblur. Does motionblur get perceived as kind of a "double image". Its hard to explain. Like maybe very mild judder? I cant really explain what Im trying to say. But if anyone know what im talking about I hope you chime in
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Ok im back to report Id rather play with the motionflow off. Also I have a question about 60fps video games and motionblur. Does motionblur get perceived as kind of a "double image". Its hard to explain. Like maybe very mild judder? I cant really explain what Im trying to say. But if anyone know what im talking about I hope you chime in
There is going to be judder in all video games. Even with high-refresh displays and high fps, though it won't be as noticeable. Film benefits from motion blur and exposure time so motion tends to be clean and smooth. Games render each frame individually, and with some exceptions, have no motion blur at the level of film. That's why a film gets away with 24fps but a game at 24fps would be a slog and extremely immersion breaking. This does a better job at explaining it than me.

All that being said, there is still motion blur in displays, which rtings.com goes into detail for the W800C.

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