Official Vizio 2016/2017 P Series Owners ONLY Thread UHD/HDR/DV No Price Talk Please - Page 1129 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #33841 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

If this is happening with both direct
connect to TV and to Soundbar it
would seem the issue points to either
your DVR and or cable from your DVR.

Repeatable errors are much easier to troubleshoot.

If it is random, it's going to be much harder
to get a pinpoint on what is actually happening.



It's happening over 50% of the time, both with the internal speakers the the sound bar.

This happened/is happening with the first use of the DVR since the Thirty-Sixty-Four Update.

What are the odds that it's a cable issue at the same time the Firmware Update lands inside my P50?

Prior to the Update, this audio problem wasn't there with
this DVR going back to the M40... even the VP322 (Plasma).

If I were a betting dude, I'd slide the whole pile of chips to the center table that it's the
3064 Update that is the cause. (Uh-oh. House security just showed up.)


.

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post #33842 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 01:31 PM
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Tried to catch up but this thread is too damn long. I just got a PS4Pro. What is the proper setup/config of it to work with my tv? P55
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post #33843 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by premierplayer View Post
Tried to catch up but this thread is too damn long. I just got a PS4Pro. What is the proper setup/config of it to work with my tv? P55
Leave everything on the PS4 Pro on AUTO, and turn on HDMI Subsampling. Should work just fine.
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post #33844 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TheOne61 View Post
Leave everything on the PS4 Pro on AUTO, and turn on HDMI Subsampling. Should work just fine.
Was reading mixed posts about using HDMI5 which I think is where my regular PS4 was hooked into. Also see people mentioning HDR doesnt work?

It would be useful is we could have a summary on the 1st page.
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post #33845 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by premierplayer View Post
Was reading mixed posts about using HDMI5 which I think is where my regular PS4 was hooked into. Also see people mentioning HDR doesnt work?

It would be useful is we could have a summary on the 1st page.
It's kind of a trade-off.

HDMI 5 is has low input lag because it circumvents the processing required for HDR.

HDMI 1-4 have higher input lag, but they are HDR capable.
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post #33846 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scitek View Post
It's kind of a trade-off.

HDMI 5 is has low input lag because it circumvents the processing required for HDR.

HDMI 1-4 have higher input lag, but they are HDR capable.
Thanks for clearing that up. Is there a patch in process to fix input lag? And how much lag are we talking on 1-4 compared to 5?
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post #33847 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by premierplayer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by scitek View Post
It's kind of a trade-off.

HDMI 5 is has low input lag because it circumvents the processing required for HDR.

HDMI 1-4 have higher input lag, but they are HDR capable.
Thanks for clearing that up. Is there a patch in process to fix input lag? And how much lag are we talking on 1-4 compared to 5?
45ms (with beta firmware) under ideal conditions, I think 5 is 19ms.
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post #33848 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 01:59 PM
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Do people have experience using a Universal Remote with these televisions? Changing TV Settings (i.e. Backlight) is often quite awkward with a phone or tablet and if I don't have a device already turned on it can take a couple minutes to change a simple setting.

Thanks.
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post #33849 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortyg83 View Post
Well keep in mind atmos isn't technically increasing bandwidth since the audio line of the cable is separate than video. Not that it atmos or dd+ doesnt use more bandwidth on that part of the cable but it doesn't affect the video bandwidth.

Now saying that doesnt mean switching to blue jeans cables isn't a good idea. They are quality proven cables and could in fact fix issues. I just wanted to point out the bandwidth difference from audio shouldn't matter.


And the weird part of that is i know having lower quality cables has caused arc issues which is really weird. Has to be something to do with the handshake between devices since the bandwidth is all within spdif and with drop outs from audio it doesn't seem to matter if it's 5.1 dd or 7.1.2 dd+. So it can't be a bandwidth issues on the audio side.


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I didn't realize that. All I know is that all my cables are Blue Jeans, and I have no problem getting Atmos via ARC/DD+ through my HDMI cable.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

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post #33850 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by premierplayer View Post
Thanks for clearing that up. Is there a patch in process to fix input lag? And how much lag are we talking on 1-4 compared to 5?
I sometimes use the TV as a second monitor and the delay with using a mouse or scrolling is very noticeable on inputs 1-4 even with Low Latency Game Mode on. I haven't tried Input 5 since I have my Xbox connected there but I think I'll have to try swapping to make using it as a second monitor actually reasonable.
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post #33851 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrRome View Post
Do people have experience using a Universal Remote with these televisions? Changing TV Settings (i.e. Backlight) is often quite awkward with a phone or tablet and if I don't have a device already turned on it can take a couple minutes to change a simple setting.

Thanks.
Universal remotes can only turn power on or off, change inputs, change between preset video modes and adjust volume.

All other settings require the tablet or smart phone.
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post #33852 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaremyP View Post
Given the talk on cables with the TV and my own posts, I have one more to make. At this point, I have ruled out the TV as being the culprit of any signaling issues, but this information probably will help others.

I had been running 2 x 45' Monoprice Cabernet from my AV7702mkII to the TV. I have consistently had problems. Black screens, white pixel snow, ARC never working realiably for bitstream, and so on. My 3-year-old can sightread the phrase "No Signal" on the TV... One cable would handshake well, but had the snow. The other would handshake terribly if at all.

The odd thing was always that if I took the same cables direct from a source, they worked OK. Just out of the preamp they didn't. I took the preamp into the service center this summer and they said it checked out OK. They changed the logic board anyway to be sure. Same behavior though.

I tried the 40' Celerity fiber optic cable. That thing just was terrible. Hardly could handshake, even source direct to TV.

For reference, my sources are TiVo Bolt, Roku Ultra, K8500, Xbox One S, PS4 Pro, and PC.

So I bought 5 x 40' Monoprice Cabernet. Hoping with that volume I'd have a winner, and being 5' shorter, the signaling might be better. I installed them yesterday.

Cable 1: Handshake was OK. Massive amounts of white snow. Much more than the 45' cable. ARC worked terribly.
Cable 2: Couldn't hardly handshake at all, just no signal.

So then I called Marantz support. In the talk, they suggested I bring the preamp up to the TV and try other cables. So I did. I brought up the Roku Ultra (which had been getting the pixel snow when set to HDR mode) and the preamp. I connected the Roku to the preamp with a 3' Monoprice High Speed Certified cable. Preamp to TV with a 6' same model cable.

It worked stably and realiably. I had never seen a device handshake so quickly and stably at 4k and high bandwidth output. No snow at all. Then I tried ARC. Obviously my amps/speakers were not connected, but the front panel of the Marantz properly showed every codec for each movie I tried. It was locking onto every ARC signal without fault.

OK, so preamp verified. Long cables are in fact the problem, at least in terms of the devices working together. So I went and tried the other 3 cables.

Cable 3: Decent handshake. Medium amount of snow. ARC gave audio with fairly frequent drop-outs.
Cable 4: Moderate handshake. Very light amount of snow, almost none. ARC worked even better. Not 100%, but close.
Cable 5: Fast handshake. No snow at all. ARC is silent.

What we have here is cable lottery. I really didn't expect that. So I'm out ARC, but at least I have a working cable. I'm tempted to go back and retry them and see if I get the same results, but I'm scared to upset the stability.

Two things to mention:

- When I mention testing ARC, I'm testing bitstream from VUDU for 5.1, 7.1 and Atmos DD+ soundtracks via casting.
- When I mention white pixel snow, it's white pixel artifacts that only happen on high bandwidth signals (4:2:2 12-bit UHD or 4:4:4 8-bit UHD). Low bandwidth, even 4:2:0 10-bit UHD, has not shown pixel snow on any cable. It's the Roku, PS4, and PC that get the snow. The K8500 and Xbox One keep their output lower bandwidth.

If I could do my system over, I would never do a long run. I will never put sources devices more than a 20' cable run away from a display ever again.

For now, I can ride it out with this one working cable and hope it doesn't change. My next thing was to try external 4x2 or 8x8 matrix switches and see if they avoid the artifacts produced using the Marantz. That or look into more expensive cables to experiment with or perhaps drop a HD Fury in there (I think that unit boosts output on regular cables for longer runs).

I am just confused as why you would keep buying the same cable over and over. Buy 2 Cabernet at 45' that do not work the same. So you buy 5 more and expect quality? If cables are that different for the same length then something is wrong with the way they are made. Not that Monoprice stuff is always junk, but when going with a run of 40' I just don't know why you would expect much different. I mean I don't even understand how they get the price that low on a 40foot active cable. I can't even buy the unterminated wire for a run that long for that price. I never actually used a celerity cable though, and I would be pissed if something that cost that much didn't work.
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post #33853 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolldog View Post
I didn't realize that. All I know is that all my cables are Blue Jeans, and I have no problem getting Atmos via ARC/DD+ through my HDMI cable.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
I actually just order a blue jeans cable to see if there is any chance it helps my ARC issues. I hope it does, but I doubt it since I have tried 4 other "High speed" cables with the same drop outs.

I really am curious what causes ARC issues knowing it isn't bandwidth related.
Here is hoping the Blue Jeans Cable can some how help me when it arrives tomorrow.
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post #33854 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 03:17 PM
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Matt

Please add my TV to the early firmware update group. My Serial number:

02LTMATLAS50705

Thank you


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post #33855 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 03:42 PM
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That would be appreciated, thanks!
Here you go... picture pages....
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sony LCD Master Series Calibration Thread
My P75-C1 Calibration Settings (5.0.14.1).
Sony XBR-75Z9F, Vizio P75-C1, Pioneer Kuro 5020, Pioneer VSX-1131, XBox One(X), Wii, NVIDIA SHIELD.v1, FireTV 4K-HDR, HDHR Connects, QNAP 431+
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post #33856 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 03:57 PM
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Really liking the harmony 650 remote. So nice to press one button to change avr and TV inputs. Works great with the xb1s too.

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk
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post #33857 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrroid View Post
I notice you have a shield and the P50. You say the Shield will give HDR10 on Netflix. Are you saying this is just how it should work or that they have fixed the HDR issue between the Vizio/Shield?

Thanks.
I actually have the Nvidia Shield connected to the P50-C1. It's connected to my Samsung TV. So not sure about any issues. You may want to do a search in this thread to find your answer or someone else with a Shield. Actually since I've bought an OLED, I don't use the P-Series that much anymore.

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post #33858 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaremyP View Post
Given the talk on cables with the TV and my own posts, I have one more to make. At this point, I have ruled out the TV as being the culprit of any signaling issues, but this information probably will help others.

I had been running 2 x 45' Monoprice Cabernet from my AV7702mkII to the TV. I have consistently had problems. Black screens, white pixel snow, ARC never working realiably for bitstream, and so on. My 3-year-old can sightread the phrase "No Signal" on the TV... One cable would handshake well, but had the snow. The other would handshake terribly if at all.

The odd thing was always that if I took the same cables direct from a source, they worked OK. Just out of the preamp they didn't. I took the preamp into the service center this summer and they said it checked out OK. They changed the logic board anyway to be sure. Same behavior though.

I tried the 40' Celerity fiber optic cable. That thing just was terrible. Hardly could handshake, even source direct to TV.

For reference, my sources are TiVo Bolt, Roku Ultra, K8500, Xbox One S, PS4 Pro, and PC.

So I bought 5 x 40' Monoprice Cabernet. Hoping with that volume I'd have a winner, and being 5' shorter, the signaling might be better. I installed them yesterday.

Cable 1: Handshake was OK. Massive amounts of white snow. Much more than the 45' cable. ARC worked terribly.
Cable 2: Couldn't hardly handshake at all, just no signal.

So then I called Marantz support. In the talk, they suggested I bring the preamp up to the TV and try other cables. So I did. I brought up the Roku Ultra (which had been getting the pixel snow when set to HDR mode) and the preamp. I connected the Roku to the preamp with a 3' Monoprice High Speed Certified cable. Preamp to TV with a 6' same model cable.

It worked stably and realiably. I had never seen a device handshake so quickly and stably at 4k and high bandwidth output. No snow at all. Then I tried ARC. Obviously my amps/speakers were not connected, but the front panel of the Marantz properly showed every codec for each movie I tried. It was locking onto every ARC signal without fault.

OK, so preamp verified. Long cables are in fact the problem, at least in terms of the devices working together. So I went and tried the other 3 cables.

Cable 3: Decent handshake. Medium amount of snow. ARC gave audio with fairly frequent drop-outs.
Cable 4: Moderate handshake. Very light amount of snow, almost none. ARC worked even better. Not 100%, but close.
Cable 5: Fast handshake. No snow at all. ARC is silent.

What we have here is cable lottery. I really didn't expect that. So I'm out ARC, but at least I have a working cable. I'm tempted to go back and retry them and see if I get the same results, but I'm scared to upset the stability.

Two things to mention:

- When I mention testing ARC, I'm testing bitstream from VUDU for 5.1, 7.1 and Atmos DD+ soundtracks via casting.
- When I mention white pixel snow, it's white pixel artifacts that only happen on high bandwidth signals (4:2:2 12-bit UHD or 4:4:4 8-bit UHD). Low bandwidth, even 4:2:0 10-bit UHD, has not shown pixel snow on any cable. It's the Roku, PS4, and PC that get the snow. The K8500 and Xbox One keep their output lower bandwidth.

If I could do my system over, I would never do a long run. I will never put sources devices more than a 20' cable run away from a display ever again.

For now, I can ride it out with this one working cable and hope it doesn't change. My next thing was to try external 4x2 or 8x8 matrix switches and see if they avoid the artifacts produced using the Marantz. That or look into more expensive cables to experiment with or perhaps drop a HD Fury in there (I think that unit boosts output on regular cables for longer runs).
Has anyone been able to add an HDMI box like a switcher with power in between?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sony LCD Master Series Calibration Thread
My P75-C1 Calibration Settings (5.0.14.1).
Sony XBR-75Z9F, Vizio P75-C1, Pioneer Kuro 5020, Pioneer VSX-1131, XBox One(X), Wii, NVIDIA SHIELD.v1, FireTV 4K-HDR, HDHR Connects, QNAP 431+
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post #33859 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 04:18 PM
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Hi Matt -- Could you please add my serial to the queue? 18LAUAUAAS01238

Thanks!

Mike

Last edited by markrubin; 11-18-2016 at 03:45 AM.
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post #33860 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 04:23 PM
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Here you go... picture pages....
Thanks shoman94! What's really weird is I did the exact same thing, only using the PC app, and all it did was switch to the COMP input & sit there. Using the android app worked perfectly. Go figure. Thanks again!
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post #33861 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 04:44 PM
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I don't think I've seen it posted yet but has anyone been getting a black screen with audio when casting? I can even hit the pause button and the menu will pull up perfectly but the actual video doesn't display even after fast forwarding just black with audio. I just have to disconnect and reconnect and it will usually work. I've seen it on both YouTube and Plex. I assume it'll be worked out in the final build, but figured I'd share.

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post #33862 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 04:46 PM
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I got the patch yesterday. Enjoying the HDR in gaming, etc on the X1S.

After watching the UHD of Into Darkness, I noticed a little SOE and some audio drops from my centre channel (ARC out, bit streaming DTS to my AVR).
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post #33863 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 05:37 PM
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For me supplied cable of vizio TV works but xb1s I use and have problems. Going to get 2 bj hdmivery soon. A 6 and 4 ft.

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post #33864 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 07:15 PM
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So if the TV's VP9 chip can only do 8-bit HDR on Youtube HDR, would I be able to bypass that and do full 10-bit HDR on youtube if I use a chromecast Ultra plugged into HDMI 1-4 on my p75?
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post #33865 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 07:42 PM
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Believe I've asked this before, but is there any way to remove an input from the on-screen selection display? I have two inputs (ARC Audio on HDMI-1 and Component on COMP) that I never use, and it would be nice to just get rid of them completely. If not, potential firmware update for the future? Just adding an option to the "Inputs" category in the SmartCast application with the ability to disable switching to that input would do the trick!
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post #33866 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 07:59 PM
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I have the new 3.0.6.4 update & now I'm getting HDMI blackouts with my PS4 Pro which is fully updated & was working perfectly before the update. It's completely random, & happens in game or even at the home screen, VERY annoying for playing games as you can imagine. Is anyone else on here with a PS4 Pro having the blackouts?
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post #33867 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 08:02 PM
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Hello Everyone,
After reading the M Series thread (I just picked up an M Series 50' today) it said to refer to the P Series for more on calibration.. is this correct, or is there an M Series Calibration tread.. Link?? Or, can I just use one of the calibration settings here for the P on my M? lol

Thanks, Phil B.
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post #33868 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 08:19 PM
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Strange thing happened yesterday...all of a sudden across all inputs the picture became super bright and high contrast, all details were blown out in whites and other bright colors, and everyone's face in movies looked like they had a spotlight shining on them. All my settings were the same..Contrast at 50...and changing them didn't fix it. The backlight kept flickering as I think it tried to keep up. Did a factory reset and the screen had a black bar going down the side of it like in the photo. Luckily Matt added me to the update list so when I reset it found the beta firmware and the black line was gone. I have to admit after having my last two Vizios die with video processor problems this did scare me a bit. Anyone else have an issue with blown out video?
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post #33869 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 08:49 PM
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Not sure if it was the latest Vizio update or the latest Shield update, but HDR on Netflix on my Shield is working perfectly.

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk
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post #33870 of 64058 Old 11-17-2016, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper_06 View Post
Hello Everyone,
After reading the M Series thread (I just picked up an M Series 50' today) it said to refer to the P Series for more on calibration.. is this correct, or is there an M Series Calibration tread.. Link?? Or, can I just use one of the calibration settings here for the P on my M? lol

Thanks, Phil B.
The M and the P series are very different for calibration. Settings also differ by screen sizes.
Try the Calibrations forum. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/ Or use the Vizio supplied Calibirated picture modes both are pretty good.
Good luck.
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2016/2017 vizio p-series - nice pic(k)! / netflix , best value , D7000 , dolby vision , latest firmware - 6.0.18.1 - previous 5.0.16.1 , Vizio , Vudu

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