Several people have asked my opinion on the new Vizio P75-C1. So after about 6 hours with the TV, here it is. (Edited 6-07-2016 modified my stance on GLL.)
I sold my M80-C3 and bought the P75-C1 not because I was dissatisfied with the M80. I sold the M80 because it simply was too big for the room I had it in. I was sitting 10 feet or less(4 feet in some cases) from an 80 inch screen.
That was just a bad idea from the start and I should have recognized that. In the 8 months that I had the M80 my wife only watched one show on the M80 with me. After that she said that it simply was too big to focus on the whole screen because we were sitting too close to it. However, the room I had it in can’t have the seats any further back without completely redoing the entire room.
Therefore, I had to try to go smaller. I know going from 80 inches to 75 inches doesn’t sound like a lot but it is. The M80 was just in your face and it exaggerated every single compression artifact in cable/satellite viewing when sitting that close to it. The P75 just seems like a perfect fit for my room now.
Originally I had wanted that “immerse yourself in the TV” feel that you get from an IMAX theater and the M80 did that very well. Too well in fact. My wife always gets sick at an IMAX movie and the same could be said of the one time she watched the M80.
The damage might have been done already and my wife probably won’t even give the P75 a chance now. However, I had to try. It just isn’t as much fun watching a giant TV by yourself.
So I sold the M80 to a lucky guy out there that got a screaming good deal on a HUGE TV. But in the end I think the P75 is the right TV for my needs.
My observations so far are that HOLY COW is this thing bright! At 100% it is like staring at the sun, bright. I do amateur solar astronomy so I know what that actually is like(Just kidding of course. I always use the proper filters with Solar).
I am not fond of the new tablet remote at all. It is just clumsy and takes way too long to adjust settings for the testing that I do. I am not a big fan at all of the new way of doing the operating system and the remote. It isn’t a deal killer for me but I am certain it will be a deal killer for some people out there. I understand why Vizio did it but that doesn’t mean I like it. Maybe I will get accustomed to it or maybe I won’t.
The good thing is that once you get the settings adjusted you shouldn’t need to touch it that often.
I think the biggest difference besides how bright it is would be how vivid you can get the colors. The M80 would just clip or posterize if you pushed the colors past REC.709. This P75 just seems to keep going.
My recommendation to everyone is abandon REC.709 if you get the 2016 P-series. Why cripple your TV just to conform to a standard that might be older than you? You are just spiting yourself then. Turn the backlight way above 100 Nits, push the colors past the REC.709 limits, and above all else just set the darn thing to what looks good to you.
I would tell you the exact opposite with the M80 simply because the TV was the limiting factor in that case. If you pushed it at all you actually made the picture worse in some cases.
If you truly insist on calibrating to REC.709 strictly then don’t buy the 2016 P-series. Buy a 2016 D-series or perhaps the new 2016 M-series, or even buy a deeply discounted 2015 M-series used like some lucky guy out there did with my M80. You are wasting one of the huge benefits of this TV if you fail to let go of the antiquated REC.709 standard.
I tested all of the Dolby Vision movies on Vudu and they looked great. They are definitely better than Blu ray and definitely better than UHD HDR Blu ray with a non HDR TV. However, they didn’t quite have the color pop that I was looking for with the default settings. I still have to play with it some more but I was going all the way up to 60 for color before I was seeing the colors that I was expecting.
The interesting thing is that the information menu indicated that I was getting an HDR signal but the TV didn’t take control of any of the settings like the HDR10 TVs do. I found that strange. The whole point of the HDR colors is that you maximize the full potential of the TV instead of limiting yourself to a single standard that your TV might be able to exceed by a significant margin. However, this could have been because I was in a derived color mode instead of the default "Calibrated" mode.
If the TV doesn’t take control of the settings then I don’t know how you could know how to adjust the settings to maximize the color potential of the TV.
You must select either the Calibrated or Calibrated Dark setting for the TV to take control of the settings and display HDR properly. If you edit the presets or use a derived profile you will not actually be watching true HDR. Calibrated Dark is the most accurate setting. However, Calibrated uses a gamma of 2.1 so that gives you a little more shadow detail if you so desire.
I also think that RTINGS recommendations to turn sharpness to zero are asinine. Like the M-series you will introduce blurriness by doing that. Even RTINGS.com now admits that turning it to 20 helps resolve the issue that they artificially introduced. They also suggest using the noise controls. I only recommend that if you have an overly compressed source.
Try 8-14 for sharpness on compressed sources like cable/Satellite and 14-18 for high quality sources.
I found it interesting that it appears that RTINGS.com tested the Vizio P-series resolution without local dimming turned on. This exposes some shadow detail with the Vizio TV that other TVs clip out.
Here are some crops of the Vizio P-series and the Sony X930D. Notice how the edges of the roofline appear as brighter highlights on the Vizio? RTINGS claims that it is a sharpness issue. However, if you look at the black levels throughout the picture you can see that nothing is truly black. It almost looks like they have turned the local dimming off and maybe even turned the brightness up to expose shadow details that aren’t shown in the Sony image.
I really do not believe that the Vizio TV is being given a fair shake on resolution and detail with lower resolution sources. It is the only one of RTINGS.com tests that are totally subjective. The rating for that section is entirely based on his subjective opinion.
Also take a look at the 4K images from the P-series vs. the Sony. How in the world could he judge both of these pictures to be a 10? Even the 4K image from the Vizio has the issues he mentions. However, the image is washed out and I do not believe that he is using the proper settings for this test to maximize the potential of the Vizio TV.
As far as motion handling goes. I think the M80 was better for that. And I know that RTINGS.com says the exact opposite. Instead what I am saying is that they are both great for motion with the proper settings. A difference of 5 ms of pixel lag is meaningless if both TVs have less than 1 Frame of pixel lag(.016667 ms). He also blew the overshoot way out of proportion for the 2015 M-series.
The bottom line is that with the right settings both the 2015 M-series and the 2016 P-series are excellent for sports motion handling.
My biggest surprise was with video games. I got to play Black Ops 3 on the PS4 with my son last night. We each have our own PS4. He has his hooked up to the M55 and mine is on the P75 and so we both get a full screen experience when we play online together.
I really was impressed with the input lag, black levels, and the colors with the P75. It just made for a great gaming experience for me. I am not a huge fan of Black Ops III on the PS4 either. I much prefer to play it on the computer hooked up to the TV with 1080p @ 120 FPS. I didn’t get to try that last night but I know that it will be great when I do get around to trying it.
Overall I am very pleased with the P75. I won’t be trading this TV out anytime soon. It fits my needs perfectly.
My recommendations for settings for now are below. However, these will change as I get more time with the TV. I hope this write up helps everyone in their buying decisions.
Auto Brightness Control:
OFF (Only turn it on if the TV is outside in bright sunlight. Don’t put a P75 outside in bright sunlight. That is just a bad idea.)
74 (This is totally subjective. Just pick what looks best to you.)
50-53 (depending on source)
8-14 (Start with 14 and adjust to your liking from there. If you feel that you need to go below 8 then turn on Reduce Block Noise to low instead)
0 (Just use the individual color controls if you need specific color adjustments)
Normal (Use Computer if you want the whites to be closer to white than they are to yellow)
Off (Use Gamma instead of this setting if you need to adjust shadow detail)
Active LED Zones:
On (Leave it on unless you see brightness pumping from text on the screen)
0 (Reduce judder needs to be set to 1 in order for Reduce Motion Blur to activate. Reduce Motion Blur can cause significant lip sync issues. I do not recommend using it.)
Reduce Motion Blur:
0 (I couldn’t get this setting to work properly. You have to set Reduce Judder to 1 or greater for it to engage. I believe it will be fixed with a firmware update)
Off (Turn this setting on for PS4 or other 60 FPS console games. It will cause some flickering if GLL is enabled as well.)
On for everything but perhaps HDR sources (Turning this setting off can cause lip sync issues as well as cause artifacts to be more apparent in overly compressed material.)
Reduce Signal Noise:
off pretty much always
Reduce Block Noise:
off or Low with an overly compressed source.
Auto(Use RGB for some computer sources)
2.2(Try 1.8 if you want more shadow detail and less clipping or 2.4 if you want more clipping.)