Official Vizio 2016/2017 P Series Owners ONLY Thread UHD/HDR/DV No Price Talk Please - Page 2120 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #63571 of 63936 Old 03-09-2019, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by O'neil026 View Post
Well my Vizio Sound bar is connected to my P65C1
True, but it is a bluetooth issue with the soundbar. You would likely have better luck on a Vizio soundbar specific forum but to each his own.

Are you having issues connecting the soundbar to your P65 via HDMI or optical Good luck.
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post #63572 of 63936 Old 03-09-2019, 02:03 PM
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I can't sync it with the vizio app. Also I can't connect to it with my smartphone anymore it does not even detect the sound bar as if the Bluetooth on the soundbar is no longer working. I tried resetting the Soundbar and it doesn't even do that is there any other way to reset the soundbar to factory settings?

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post #63573 of 63936 Old 03-09-2019, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by O'neil026 View Post
I can't sync it with the vizio app. Also I can't connect to it with my smartphone anymore it does not even detect the sound bar as if the Bluetooth on the soundbar it's no longer working. I tried resend that Soundbar and it doesn't even do that is there any other way to reset the soundbar to factory settings
Please take this discussion to the soundbar forum.
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post #63574 of 63936 Old 03-09-2019, 09:39 PM
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Is it best to put active full array on low to reduce blooming if so how do I make the picture brighter to look the best when it’s on low
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post #63575 of 63936 Old 03-09-2019, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Rymax View Post
Is it best to put active full array on low to reduce blooming if so how do I make the picture brighter to look the best when it’s on low
It should be set to medium for HDR content so image fidelity is best. It should be set to low for SDR content viewed in dark/low light environments, but can be set to medium for very bright rooms. It will automatically change when you watch HDR content.

Edit: this is the wrong thread for your TV model.

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post #63576 of 63936 Old 03-09-2019, 09:59 PM
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It should be set to medium for HDR content so image fidelity is best. It should be set to low for SDR content viewed in dark/low light environments, but can be set to medium for very bright rooms. It will automatically change when you watch HDR content.
Where are you all seeing a way to control the full array variability? I'm just seeing on or off on my P.
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post #63577 of 63936 Old 03-09-2019, 10:24 PM
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Where are you all seeing a way to control the full array variability? I'm just seeing on or off on my P.
Blah. I'm sure he meant to post in the 2018 threads. I didn't catch this is the 2016/17 thread. It is a new feature for 2018 models.
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post #63578 of 63936 Old 03-10-2019, 12:13 AM
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If the backlight is damaged, there is nothing you can do to fix them.


But it's a multi-hour process and $80+ in parts.
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post #63579 of 63936 Old 03-10-2019, 12:26 AM
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Not entirely true...



But it's a multi-hour process and $80+ in parts.
TV repair shops won't even do it. I asked numerous in my area when I was going to buy a local TV with a dead zone.
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post #63580 of 63936 Old 03-10-2019, 10:52 AM
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TV repair shops won't even do it. I asked numerous in my area when I was going to buy a local TV with a dead zone.
That just proves that it would cost them too much time than it's worth profiting from job-wise. But it could be done just like I could use large tree leaves instead of toilet paper (not that I'd want to ).
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post #63581 of 63936 Old 03-10-2019, 11:05 AM
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That just proves that it would cost them too much time than it's worth profiting from job-wise. But it could be done just like I could use large tree leaves instead of toilet paper (not that I'd want to ).
The video you listed is for a completely different model. I couldn't find one for a P series which has a different structure.

I found the LED strips for the P series, but only on eBay. That scares me. I have also read multiple comments of people that have successfully changed the LEDs, but the entire image looks off afterwards. Either an issue with the new LEDs or an issue with disassembly/reassembly. It is a risk most people aren't willing to make. I wouldn't do it.
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post #63582 of 63936 Old 03-10-2019, 01:13 PM
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Hey everyone! I have a P-65 E1 that I've had for a while now. I had to return the first set because it got a line of bad pixels, and every now and then the screen would randomly go black and come back. It looked just like when you switch inputs on the TV and the info pops up on the top of the screen and then the picture. I've had the second set for a while now and everything has been great, until the other day when it started to do the thing where the screen goes black and then pops the info back on as if you have switched inputs (but I haven't). Does anyone know if this is a known issue or if there is anything I can do about it? I'm not sure if it's specific to the input I was using (I'm going to swap inputs later when I get some time) or if it's a problem with the TV as a whole.

To give you more specific details, I was playing Playstation 4 Pro with HDR enabled, and I believe I was using HDMI input #4 . I have not noticed this when playing Xbox One X using HDR (HDMI 2), nor have I seen it when watching my Amazon Fire TV (HDMI 3), but I don't use this TV often, and I haven't used either of those for any substantial amount of time in a couple months. Every time the screen goes black and the info pops up and the picture changes, nothing is actually changing. HDR is still enabled, the resolution is the same, everything. I'm hoping that it's nothing serious because I don't think it's under warranty any more (though I don't remember how long the warranty is or exactly when I got this second set...) and I don't want to have to shell out for another TV.

Thanks for any help!
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post #63583 of 63936 Old 03-10-2019, 02:04 PM
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Hey everyone! I have a P-65 E1 that I've had for a while now. I had to return the first set because it got a line of bad pixels, and every now and then the screen would randomly go black and come back. It looked just like when you switch inputs on the TV and the info pops up on the top of the screen and then the picture. I've had the second set for a while now and everything has been great, until the other day when it started to do the thing where the screen goes black and then pops the info back on as if you have switched inputs (but I haven't). Does anyone know if this is a known issue or if there is anything I can do about it? I'm not sure if it's specific to the input I was using (I'm going to swap inputs later when I get some time) or if it's a problem with the TV as a whole.
The display does a HDCP handshake every few minutes with any device on the active HDMI input, if it does not complete the handshake properly the video will be blacked out until a proper HDCP handshake is completed.

The usually cause is using poor quality HDMI cables that are not Premium Certified 18 GHz cables and are to long or shorter then 6 feet.
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post #63584 of 63936 Old 03-10-2019, 02:38 PM
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The display does a HDCP handshake every few minutes with any device on the active HDMI input, if it does not complete the handshake properly the video will be blacked out until a proper HDCP handshake is completed.

The usually cause is using poor quality HDMI cables that are not Premium Certified 18 GHz cables and are to long or shorter then 6 feet.
Interesting, thanks for the info. I was just thinking about swapping cables as well. When the issue happened the last time, it was with the Xbox, but I don't know if it was the same cable that's currently being used for the Playstation or not.

The timing of it is also really random. A couple nights ago it happened a couple times in an hour or so, then the next day I played, it didn't happen at all. Today it happened maybe twice in 15-20 minutes, then it was fine for another 30 or so. Weird.

Thanks again for the info--I'll swap out the HDMI cable and see what happens.
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post #63585 of 63936 Old 03-10-2019, 02:43 PM
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Replaced the 3 boards highlighted in yellow in the photograph below.
Can anyone identify the boards that are not highlighted in yellow from the picture in my earlier post? Sorry, I don't have a high enough post count to include links here, but it's post #63565 .

I'm hoping that one of the non-yellow boards is video-related and that I can replace another board or two (or three? there's one under the grey cover in the center) to take care of the shaded upper left quadrant.
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post #63586 of 63936 Old 03-10-2019, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mediastuff View Post
Replaced the 3 boards highlighted in yellow in the photograph below.
Can anyone identify the boards that are not highlighted in yellow from the picture in my earlier post? Sorry, I don't have a high enough post count to include links here, but it's post #63565 .

I'm hoping that one of the non-yellow boards is video-related and that I can replace another board or two (or three? there's one under the grey cover in the center) to take care of the shaded upper left quadrant.
I don't know the name of them but the lower board is the backlight controller and the center board is the t-conn board which sends the image to the screen.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sony LCD Master Series Calibration Thread
My P75-C1 Calibration Settings (5.0.14.1).
Sony XBR-75Z9F, Vizio P75-C1, Pioneer Kuro 5020, Pioneer VSX-1131, XBox One(X), Wii, NVIDIA SHIELD.v1, FireTV 4K-HDR, HDHR Connects, QNAP 431+
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post #63587 of 63936 Old 03-13-2019, 03:43 AM
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I don't know the name of them but the lower board is the backlight controller and the center board is the t-conn board which sends the image to the screen.
Thank you! From your description it sounds like a "might as well replace those, too, to see if they an effect" situation. Is that about right?
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post #63588 of 63936 Old 03-13-2019, 07:19 AM
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Has the UHD Color toggle glitch been fixed yet? The one where you need the UHD color toggle set to on with every input to get it to work? (and thus needing a device plugged in to each port since you can't toggle it on without a device being plugged in). I'm about to do some spring cleaning and i'll have my TV unplugged for a bit, it's a pain in the ass to plug stuff in after it's all back on the wall.

Vizio P65-C1
Denon AVR-X6300H
HTD Level 3 Left/Center/Right, Micca COVO-S for Surrounds
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post #63589 of 63936 Old 03-13-2019, 02:59 PM
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Just checking in to see how everyone & their TV's are doing.

My P65 (June 2016) is still going strong. No problems yet.


Oh, well then you're due for some sort of failure then.

Me and my P50-C1 (Spring of 2016) are still hanging in there.

What helps to keep electronics going longer, ahead of others without additional electronic filtering, is to protect the Vizio Display/TV (and computers - Power Supplies, Hard Drives, etc) from 'dirty' electricity which produces more heat and wear due to bad wave forms and poor power factors. (Maybe this why my 2010 computer and my 1TB HDD hasn't failed yet. I pretty much leave my computer on 24/7. I've never backed-up my HDD. I'm now in the process of purchasing another drive or two to finally backup my HDD.) (Note: I just did a 'Zero Delete Free Space' on my HDD for the first time ever and got another 34GB back! )


Spoiler!



However, you may have dirty electronic wave forms on top of already dirty wave forms if you have an electronic/digital city utility meter with transmitters (Smart Meter). Dirty electricity is generated back into the building all throughout the AC wiring. (Not to mention health concerns with the RF.)

Have a quality surge protector / Line Conditioner or UPS inline. I have an APC Surge/UPS at my computer center and one smaller one for the Vizio and other devices in the Living Room. If I come-up with the cash, I'd like to get one of the AC Filter Plug-in modules that filters one phase of the AC from Satic. (Two are needed for each phase and a 240v version to filter the A/B phase for the dryer and oven/stove.) All of my key electronics are on the same one phase, so I can get away with having only one module.

However, the best and more complete coverage is the whole-house Surge/Conditioner, which the Satic brand, apparently is a top-notch quality unit. It produces cleaner electric and can reduce electric usage cost up to 20%.) I wish I'd known about this Satic Whole-House unit years ago. I would have had that unit installed and the unit would have paid itself off by now.

However, I've read in the past of not having a surge power strip plugged into another surge device, such as an UPS. I think this effectively cancels each other out. So, does this apply to these plug-in and Whole-House surge units along with having an UPS or power strip, also? Seems it would be. Any electronic expert here have a comment on this?


- Pj
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post #63590 of 63936 Old 03-13-2019, 03:18 PM
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Oh, well then you're due for some sort of failure then.

Me and my P50-C1 (Spring of 2016) are still hanging in there.

What helps to keep electronics going longer, ahead of others without additional electronic filtering, is to protect the Vizio Display/TV (and computers - Power Supplies, Hard Drives, etc) from 'dirty' electricity which produces more heat and wear due to bad wave forms and poor power factors. (Maybe this why my 2010 computer and my 1TB HDD hasn't failed yet. I pretty much leave my computer on 24/7. I've never backed-up my HDD. I'm now in the process of purchasing another drive or two to finally backup my HDD.) (Note: I just did a 'Zero Delete Free Space' on my HDD for the first time ever and got another 34GB back! )


Spoiler!



However, you may have dirty electronic wave forms on top of already dirty wave forms if you have an electronic/digital city utility meter with transmitters (Smart Meter). Dirty electricity is generated back into the building all throughout the AC wiring. (Not to mention health concerns with the RF.)

Have a quality surge protector / Line Conditioner or UPS inline. I have an APC Surge/UPS at my computer center and one smaller one for the Vizio and other devices in the Living Room. If I come-up with the cash, I'd like to get one of the AC Filter Plug-in modules that filters one phase of the AC from Satic. (Two are needed for each phase and a 240v version to filter the A/B phase for the dryer and oven/stove.) All of my key electronics are on the same one phase, so I can get away with having only one module.

However, the best and more complete coverage is the whole-house Surge/Conditioner, which the Satic brand, apparently is a top-notch quality unit. It produces cleaner electric and can reduce electric usage cost up to 20%.) I wish I'd known about this Satic Whole-House unit years ago. I would have had that unit installed and the unit would have paid itself off by now.

However, I've read in the past of not having a surge power strip plugged into another surge device, such as an UPS. I think this effectively cancels each other out. So, does this apply to these plug-in and Whole-House surge units along with having an UPS or power strip, also? Seems it would be. Any electronic expert here have a comment on this?


- Pj
It's a mix of reduced efficiency (surge protectors working against each other, undervolting electronics, and depending on what's hooked up - drawing too much power for a protector to handle which will ultimately trip the breaker and become a fire hazard

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
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post #63591 of 63936 Old 03-19-2019, 07:24 AM
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I guess I'm in the same boat as you, boomhower. Got my P55-C1 in April 2017, just died with the same symptoms as yours. Although, I find it odd that I'm still getting power out of the USB ports on the side of the TV. Were you ever able to get the power LED to come on? Just before mine died for good, I would turn the TV on and get a solid white power LED, but then it just went off after about 10 seconds without the TV coming on. It did that a couple times before becoming totally unresponsive.

Bought my p65-c1 in Feb. of 2017. Yesterday afternoon, while on the xbox the tv went black. After about a minute the tv power light came back on and the white V appeared. About 5 seconds later the tv turned off. It rebooted itself like this two more times. After a few minutes, I got it to repeat this process a couple of more times. I left it unplugged overnight and tried again this morning but no luck. After reading similar issues occurring the last few months I am thinking it's the main board. Am I off base with this? I've tried the power cycling several times. Still getting power through USB.

Last edited by jetty; 03-19-2019 at 07:14 PM. Reason: Correction
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post #63592 of 63936 Old 03-28-2019, 10:20 AM
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@jetty Did you fix it or replace it?
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post #63593 of 63936 Old 03-28-2019, 11:01 AM
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@jetty Did you fix it or replace it?
I purchased a power supply board off ebay that was supposed to have been restored to working order. After replacing with new board I still get no power on light. The board was returnable. I may try another power board from a different seller.
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post #63594 of 63936 Old 03-31-2019, 07:36 AM
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I ended up purchasing the new model (P75-F1) instead of continuing to try self-repairs on mine. The newer version is much lighter and has a smaller profile (and was also under 1/2 the cost of what I paid for the original one in 2016).


I am wondering whether I should just donate the old P75-C1 (with dark spots and sometimes lines across the screen) to get it out of my place or whether it's worth trying to sell the 3 new boards that Vizio sent with the repair technician (boards visible in yellow in post #63565).
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post #63595 of 63936 Old 04-02-2019, 09:16 AM
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I put in another power board and still no response. I also ordered a main board so I decided to install it. Now I get a power light for about 5 seconds and that's it. I called the company I bought from and the tech said the main board probably has an issue. Sending it back. About to give up.

So I was going to remove main board to send back and I noticed a cable that my eyes completely glazed over that wasn't connected. Woohoo I have my TV back! It wasn't the power board at all as the tech kept insisting.

This TV has a really nice panel so I am so glad it's working again.
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Last edited by jetty; 04-03-2019 at 10:59 AM. Reason: Update
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post #63596 of 63936 Old 04-03-2019, 12:13 PM
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Glad you got it fixed. @jetty Just curious where did you get the boards and how much were they?
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post #63597 of 63936 Old 04-03-2019, 12:14 PM
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Glad you got it fixed. @jetty Just curious where did you get the boards and how much were they?
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post #63598 of 63936 Old 04-03-2019, 12:43 PM
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Glad you got it fixed. @jetty Just curious where did you get the boards and how much were they?
sent you a pm...
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post #63599 of 63936 Old 04-03-2019, 06:18 PM
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I received an email from Vizio today that the Apple Airplay beta was now ready. I followed all the directions here: https://support.vizio.com/s/article/...language=en_US

It updated the firmware to 6.0.16.2 SEM.

I can now cast movies via Airplay from the Apple TV app. I'm getting both Dolby Vision and HDR10. Although for some reason, I'm limited to 1080p. Hopefully that will be fixed with an update. If anyone else does the beta, let me know if you get 4k.

Also, Airplay is now in the on-screen Change Input list. And on the Smartcast screen, its logo is next to the Cast logo on the upper menu.

The only other thing I noticed with the new firmware is that the HDR type pops out in the upper right corner whenever it is detected, without dropping down the whole info menu. Also with Vudu, in the info menu, they added Audio Out above the Atmos logo.
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post #63600 of 63936 Old 04-03-2019, 10:31 PM
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I received an email from Vizio today that the Apple Airplay beta was now ready. I followed all the directions here: https://support.vizio.com/s/article/...language=en_US

It updated the firmware to 6.0.16.2 SEM.

I can now cast movies via Airplay from the Apple TV app. I'm getting both Dolby Vision and HDR10. Although for some reason, I'm limited to 1080p. Hopefully that will be fixed with an update. If anyone else does the beta, let me know if you get 4k.

Also, Airplay is now in the on-screen Change Input list. And on the Smartcast screen, its logo is next to the Cast logo on the upper menu.

The only other thing I noticed with the new firmware is that the HDR type pops out in the upper right corner whenever it is detected, without dropping down the whole info menu. Also with Vudu, in the info menu, they added Audio Out above the Atmos logo.
Same here, no 4K with iTunes movies and sometimes it fails to play the HDR version of a movie and just plays the HD SDR version.

Just report and issues using "Feedback Assistant", that's the best way to hopefully have any bugs ironed out for the release.

Personally I like how it's just a nice clean non-intrusive logo when playing DV/HDR content.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
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2016/2017 vizio p-series - nice pic(k)! / netflix , best value , D7000 , dolby vision , latest firmware - 6.0.18.1 - previous 5.0.16.1 , Vizio , Vudu

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