Official Vizio 2016/2017 P Series Owners ONLY Thread UHD/HDR/DV No Price Talk Please - Page 810 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #24271 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Karnis2 View Post
Just to clarify, it's all working like I said it does and you can watch it happen in real time by leaving the picture controls open & watch the changes happen.

regular TV viewing, HDMI 1, CAL mode, backlight 65.

switch to UHD blu ray, HDMI 1, kicks into HDR mode, CAL mode, backlight 85.

switch to CAST, kicks into DV mode, CAL mode, backlight 100 (for testing purposes only, I use 50)

If i switch between any of these sources, they all retain their settings.

For DV you can set it to CAL-D if you want, make changes & it will retain them AND return to CAL for everything else.
Just to clarify: are you sending regular TV and UHD player signal through an AVR via a single cable to HDMI-1? My regular TV (TiVo Bolt) goes to HDMI-1 and my UHD player goes to HDMI-3 (my AVR is NOT 4K-capable).
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post #24272 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Karnis2 View Post
Just to clarify, it's all working like I said it does and you can watch it happen in real time by leaving the picture controls open & watch the changes happen.

regular TV viewing, HDMI 1, CAL mode, backlight 65.

switch to UHD blu ray, HDMI 1, kicks into HDR mode, CAL mode, backlight 85.

switch to CAST, kicks into DV mode, CAL mode, backlight 100 (for testing purposes only, I use 50)

If i switch between any of these sources, they all retain their settings.

For DV you can set it to CAL-D if you want, make changes & it will retain them AND return to CAL for everything else.
I think you basically have this correct. Just for clarification...

HDR (either DV or HDR10) share the underlying calibration tables for the selected color temperature (cool, computer, normal). So, when viewing a 4k Bluray or watching something in DV while casting, if you have the same color temperature selected in the Picture mode, it will use the "hidden" HDR calibration associated with that color temp. The HDR flags for DV and HDR10 trigger the use of those hidden tables.

Picture modes are unique to every input (but the color temps are shared across all inputs). In addition, HDR color temps are discreet from SDR color temp.. but there are only 3 for SDR and 3 for HDR. If you modify or calibrate "normal" for SDR, that table is used for "normal", regardless of the input. Same for HDR.

Finally, colorspace does not change when you change Picture modes or inputs. If you have it set to YCbCr on input 1 (whatever PM) and switch to HDMI5 for gaming and want RGB... you have to change it manually). I haven't tested this with the new firmware, but it's the way it's always been.

This is the "deep dive" on picture modes, color temps and colorspace.

SONY Z9F LCD Master Series Owners Thread
Vizio 2016 P series FAQ, general info and Help
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post #24273 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by thomasfxlt View Post
It's graded dark, for a theater setting (maybe a bit more so than some). Any ambient light will be a challenge for that title.

While playing DV content, you can go to the picture mode you're using and then go to the calibration settings and modify them. Don't worry about it because you can always zero them back out. I don't have a P50, but the P65 and P75 benefit greatly from calibration at the shadow end (0-40%) IMO. This would open your shadows up significantly at standard gamma of 2.1-2.2 plus give you a lot of latitude for high ambient if you need it (when you set to 2.0 or 1.8 it will be significant).
Thanks there is one post of settings for the P55. Should those be universal for SDR and HDR? One more question I promise, if I adjust the advanced settings in SDR and then start playing a movie and it switches to DV, will those advanced settings need to be set up again?
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post #24274 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Character_Zero View Post
Thanks there is one post of settings for the P55. Should those be universal for SDR and HDR? One more question I promise, if I adjust the advanced settings in SDR and then start playing a movie and it switches to DV, will those advanced settings need to be set up again?
Yes, the calibration settings are unique to the color temperatures for SDR and HDR. DV calibration tables need to be edited WHILE DV content is playing. It's the only way to access the "hidden" calibration for "normal" in HDR mode.
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post #24275 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by geodon005 View Post
Just to clarify: are you sending regular TV and UHD player signal through an AVR via a single cable to HDMI-1? My regular TV (TiVo Bolt) goes to HDMI-1 and my UHD player goes to HDMI-3 (my AVR is NOT 4K-capable).

yes
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post #24276 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Heinz68 View Post
4:4:4 chroma is only needed for PC use and it isn't correctly supported by this series.
Did someone test it with the new firmware yet on a PC?
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post #24277 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by shortyg83 View Post
The easiest way to do it is just use a different picture mode. Calibrated for hdr10 and cal dark for dv. The only difference is gamma. Then you can adjust what you want. The color mode is the only thing they will share


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By doing this, will I need to use another picture mode for SDR viewing? I typically use Calibrated for SDR stuff and Cal Dark for DV.
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post #24278 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by shortyg83 View Post
Do you know of any material that causes this all the time that i could test my set with? I use to just use the flashing colors video on YouTube but it doesn't happen with that anymore. I want to check if my tv is actually fixed or if i will have the same issues as you


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Where I've seen it (twice now) is with the Batman V Superman UHD Disc. A good spot is at the 2:24-2:25 mark when Doomsday is surrounded by explosions/lightning.
I'll try the Vudu DV version today and see if it produces the same result.

EDIT: same thing on the Vudu DV stream.

EDIT 2: Also noticed right away on the Star Trek: Into Darkness UHD Disc (Which otherwise, as Thomas said, looks fantastic).

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post #24279 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by zer0cool2007 View Post
Where I've seen it (twice now) is with the Batman V Superman UHD Disc. A good spot is at the 2:24-2:25 mark when Doomsday is surrounded by explosions/lightning.

I'll try the Vudu DV version today and see if it produces the same result.


Thanks for the info, i don't have the uhd disc but i do have it on vudu so if you see it on there i will check my set the same spot.


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post #24280 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by shortyg83 View Post
Thanks for the info, i don't have the uhd disc but i do have it on vudu so if you see it on there i will check my set the same spot.


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I just verified that I'm seeing the same thing on the Vudu DV version.
Remember, that time stamp I gave is for the Ultimate edition, not the theatrical though.
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post #24281 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Character_Zero View Post
Was watching Watchmen on Vudu with DV last night. There is a lot of darkness in that movie. I adjusted the Gamma to 1.8 but it only helped a little. Is that the only setting I can play with to brighten up the picture? Also the tablet was slow to make Picture updates, I assume from the DV processing going on.
We just got the HDR-10 update on our Vizio's and I guess I've selected the wrong HDR movies because they've all been kind of washed out as far as color and dark as well. The 3 I've watched so far are:

Batman vs. Superman
Man of Steel
Divergent

This morning I went to Vudu on the Roku 4 and watched a little of Batman vs. Superman and thought it looked a lot better on this device. As you all know, the Roku 4 is not HDR capable so it's 4k without HDR. Some of the recent movies that have come out in 4k for some reason are really dark and drab. In the future I'll be watching these without HDR as they look better to me. If you have the Roku 4 you may want to give it a try and let us know what you think?

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post #24282 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Karnis2 View Post
To follow up from Ph8te above, if you don't change inputs, like from HDMI to CAST, your picture mode won't change either. If you're on HDMI 1 CAL, and you switch to CAST, change it to CAL-D for DV. When you go back to your HDMI input, your picture mode will return to CAL. Next time you CAST DV, it will be at CAL-D. If you set your Picture Mode to STANDARD, it will use STANDARD for HDR as well because you havent changed HDMI inputs. You don't want STANDARD for HDR, you want CAL or CAL-D.

IMHO people make it too complicated. It's actually real simple. Set the Picture Mode to CAL for normal viewing on your preferred HDMI port. Set the backlight to your tastes (I use 50). Set the sharpness as well (8 for me). Now when ever you return to this HDMI input FOR NORMAL VIEWING those settings will stick.

Now (assuming you're on an AVR) switch to your UHD player. It will kick HDR in & set the backlight to 50. If you find it too be too dark (and I do), adjust it to 85-100, whatever your tastes are. I use 85. Now every time you go into HDR mode FOR THAT HDMI INPUT, those will be your settings. It won't change Picture Modes because you haven't changed HDMI inputs. But it does retain your backlight settings.

CASTING for DV is a little different. Go ahead & cast a DV movie. It will set your backlight to 50. Everything I've read so far & experienced in hand says don't touch it, but of course do as you see fit (I leave it at 50). Now you can set the picture mode to CAL-D & make color adjustments if you want, and next time you CAST DV these will be your settings. When you return to HDMI 1 your picture mode reverts back as well.

I haven't done it as I switch sources thru my AVR, but if you use multiple HDMI inputs, your settings are saved per input/per mode (regular/HDR).

Hopes this helps clear things up. That's been my understanding & my experience so far.
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
It's not supposed to switch....Matt posted on this earlier. If you are on "SDR" before watching HDR it will change to whatever SDR's equivalent is when HDR is made. For instance if you are on calibrated, it would remain on calibrated. Sometimes you'll get a "last used" but, from what Matt has said, it appears this may not be the case.

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Originally Posted by Karnis2 View Post
Just to clarify, it's all working like I said it does and you can watch it happen in real time by leaving the picture controls open & watch the changes happen.

regular TV viewing, HDMI 1, CAL mode, backlight 65.

switch to UHD blu ray, HDMI 1, kicks into HDR mode, CAL mode, backlight 85.

switch to CAST, kicks into DV mode, CAL mode, backlight 100 (for testing purposes only, I use 50)

If i switch between any of these sources, they all retain their settings.

For DV you can set it to CAL-D if you want, make changes & it will retain them AND return to CAL for everything else.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thomasfxlt View Post
I think you basically have this correct. Just for clarification...

HDR (either DV or HDR10) share the underlying calibration tables for the selected color temperature (cool, computer, normal). So, when viewing a 4k Bluray or watching something in DV while casting, if you have the same color temperature selected in the Picture mode, it will use the "hidden" HDR calibration associated with that color temp. The HDR flags for DV and HDR10 trigger the use of those hidden tables.

Picture modes are unique to every input (but the color temps are shared across all inputs). In addition, HDR color temps are discreet from SDR color temp.. but there are only 3 for SDR and 3 for HDR. If you modify or calibrate "normal" for SDR, that table is used for "normal", regardless of the input. Same for HDR.

Finally, colorspace does not change when you change Picture modes or inputs. If you have it set to YCbCr on input 1 (whatever PM) and switch to HDMI5 for gaming and want RGB... you have to change it manually). I haven't tested this with the new firmware, but it's the way it's always been.

This is the "deep dive" on picture modes, color temps and colorspace.
Clear as mud...

Karnis2 - are these the only changes you're making to the default "Calibrated" and "Calibrated Dark" settings in each of the viewing environments (SDR, HDR-10 & DV)?

Maybe this would simplify things a lot for me?

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post #24283 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Kschreck View Post
So I ordered the 2016 $999 Vizio P and was wondering just how big of an upgrade in picture quality this will be over my 2008 Samsung LN52A750?
I upgraded from a Samsung 46B8500 to a 55 inch P-Series, and I will say, IMO, the image is a tad softer than the Samsung. The Samsung did do SD content better, but the images are pretty comparable. I will note, that my 46B8500 has been professionally calibrated, which I plan on having done to my Vizio 55 P Series next month (September). Once I have my Vizio professionally calibrated it will be a little easier to determine which is better.
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post #24284 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lujan View Post
Clear as mud...
There's a lot going on with these displays and using them to accommodate multiple existing and new standards is a challenge.

Flexibility = complexity I'm afraid.

SONY Z9F LCD Master Series Owners Thread
Vizio 2016 P series FAQ, general info and Help
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post #24285 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by lujan View Post
We just got the HDR-10 update on our Vizio's and I guess I've selected the wrong HDR movies because they've all been kind of washed out as far as color and dark as well. The 3 I've watched so far are:

Batman vs. Superman
Man of Steel
Divergent

This morning I went to Vudu on the Roku 4 and watched a little of Batman vs. Superman and thought it looked a lot better on this device. As you all know, the Roku 4 is not HDR capable so it's 4k without HDR. Some of the recent movies that have come out in 4k for some reason are really dark and drab. In the future I'll be watching these without HDR as they look better to me. If you have the Roku 4 you may want to give it a try and let us know what you think?
I watched Batman vs Superman on Saturday. I changed the gamma and bumped the backlight, as was suggested, and it looked great. In fact, I was only going to demo it, but ended up watching the whole film.

I believe with HRD10 being static, it may be something we have to play with to get it to look as we want. A little fiddling is worth the effort in my view.
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post #24286 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:01 AM
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P75 Update - Post 2.0.13.13 Firmware

I've had my P75 since mid-June now and by and large I have been very, very happy with it (so there's a "happy user" report lol). With each firmware release the issues I have seen have been either eliminated or reduced. That's the "adventure" of an early adopter and I'm okay with that . With the 2.0.13.13 firmware update I can confirm from my setup the following

  • The audio drop-outs between my Samsung 8500 directly connected to my P75, which is then ARC'ed to my Onkyo NR818 have been eliminated. This is the observation after a 3 movie marathon viewing .
  • The audio drop-outs while Casting from Netflix, Vudu, Crunchyroll, etc are back to once either 30-45 minutes. While it use to be that I would have to switch the P75 Audio from Bitstream to PCM and "leave it there" until the next drop and flip back...now the behavior is that I can simply toggle directly from Bitstream to PCM and then immediately back again. With this I'm good for another 30-45 minutes. Irritation is that to make this happen I have to scramble for the remote, turn it on, invoke the casting pause, flip to the Vizio app, switch the Audio from bitstream to pcm to bitstream, back up the cast 30 seconds, start cast. Ahh...the fun of early adoption lol.
  • The audio drop-outs while using my Himedia Q10 Pro android TV box (HDR support, SiliconDust via Kodi) continue unchanged. The Q10 is set for RAW HDMI output. The difference in behavior vs the Casting issue is that I can't recover the audio unless I power cycle just the P75. My next test is to move the Q10 to my Vizio XVT473SV and verify it has no drop-outs. Then move the NR818...but of course sans ARC. The reason I suspect the P75 is that the NR818 shows that it has a change in the audio signal from the P75 (speaker and mode go blank and then return).
  • The page tearing and motion artifacts have disappeared for the Samsung, Casting, and Q10...or are small enough to be unnoticed by me during normal viewing.
  • The one "new" item that I'm not yet pinning on the P75 is that I did some new tests from my Lenovo Yoga 900 laptop running powerpoint based videos...and from that I did see page tearing pushing 1080p video to a P75 resolution set at 1080p. I don't see this behavior on any other display device (1080p monitor or a projector). Clearly early in diagnosis...could be drivers, constant sunspots, or Martian influence...still investigating.

Before anyone asks...yup...I am using only 12' long series-1 BJC and I've moved devices around between P75's HDMI ports 2-4 (port 1 remaining for ARC).



So in short I still love the PQ of my P75, I see the continued progress on the audio side, my GF still considers it a science experiment in progress and makes me always "drive" (when the audio drop-outs are resolved I'll go down the Harmony remote route for her), and I continue to "attempt" to keep up with this thread lol.


A special shout out to @Matt McRae for white-listing my P75 and taking the time, energy, and having the patience to deal with this forum.
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Last edited by driven2perl; 08-01-2016 at 10:05 AM.
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post #24287 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frazered View Post
Have tried all the suggestions mentioned in this thread to get the Shield TV and Vizio show HDR but no dice so far

1. I had gotten the "HDR" badge in Netflix on the Shield but no HDR showing on the VIZIO (HDR=No)
2. Have some Demo HDR content loaded onto the Shield but no HDR showing on the VIZIO (HDR=No)
3. Now, somehow I no longer get the "HDR" badge in Marco Polo Netflix on the Shield either.
4. For me, turning on subsampling causes the TV to blank out with "No Signal" at 4k, 60hz. Enabling Subsampling only works at 4K 24hz.
5. Have tried all possible combinations of modes and tricks like enabling disabling subsampling while playing marco polo etc.
6. Using HDMI 2 and Using DIRECT connection of the supplied Shield HDMI Cable to Vizio TV

Bottom line is this this eagerly awaited firmware update w/ HDR10 has been a total bust (for me) since I am not able to view a single video in HDR10, be it the countless HDR demos or Netflix HDR content.

I guess so far this HDR10 update is only meant for the two devices in play: ie Samsung and Philips 4k BluRay Disc Players . Unfortunately, the only HDMI capable HDR device i have is the Nvidia Shield TV



1. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get the HDR badge on Netflix on the Shield TV without doing a hard/factory reset on the Shield to get the badge)? Hope to find warmth and comfort in the glow of that HDR badge till the companies and experts figure it out.

2. Any tips or tricks I can try to re-attempt getting HDR on the VIZIO<-->SHIELD TV for some of the HDR Demo files that i want to see work?
3. Any idea on why enabling Subsampling doesn't work for me at 4K 60hz @ HDMI 2(Display goes blank - no input) ?


Thanks!
I had zero luck getting Netflix on the Nvidia Shield TV to do HDR. Vudu, doesn't appear to do HDR on the Nvidia shield TV. I have a Samsung K8500 ultra blu-ray player showing up on Tuesday, with a purchased copy of Deadpool at Target this weekend, to test if it works on that device, which I believe it should. So no, you are not alone with unable to get HDR to work out of the Nvidia Shield TV.
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post #24288 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:14 AM
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Hello everyone. I just bought a P75-C1 and it will be delivered tomorrow. 2 questions.

1) can it work without internet? I'm getting it delivered to my new house (haven't fully moved in yet) and there's no internet yet. Will it do anything, or do I need to have internet access for it first?

2) One of the reasons I liked this TV was for the tablet and smartcast. We watch a lot of stuff from Plex, YouTube, etc. Most of what we watch isn't 'reference' it's just TV shows and such that get streamed from our NAS. The tablet seems pretty cool. However, I JUST realized that since the material is getting streamed directly to the TV, I'd have to use ARC or optical out. I see a lot of people having issues with ARC, but why can't I just use the optical out? Does it pass the same audio content? I currently have a 2-channel DAC/pre-amp, but am thinking about getting an Anthem AVM-60. Would I be OK to just use optical to the DAC or processor? Thanks guys!
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post #24289 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post
Clear as mud...

Karnis2 - are these the only changes you're making to the default "Calibrated" and "Calibrated Dark" settings in each of the viewing environments (SDR, HDR-10 & DV)?

Maybe this would simplify things a lot for me?
Hi Lujan:
I'll make it even simpler.

I use CAL for everything. Period. After all, it's calibrated.

When I watch regular TV (non hdr), I set the backlight to 50. This will stay like this.

When I switch to UHD HDR blu ray, I set the backlight to 85. This will stay like this.

When I cast DV, the backlight is preset to 50. The only DV title i currently own is BvS. I haven't felt compelled to change it, but if I set it to 75 it will stay like that.

If you want a little more pop to your 4K HDR blu rays, use the player controls & up the contrast to +5 or so.

If its not bright enough, adjust the backlight. If you deviate too much from default color settings, you're changing the baseline calibrated defaults. Check the Disney WOW disc. The default values are pretty much spot on. Trust them.

One thing I've been thinking about is the whole "too dark" thing. We know CAL is properly calibrated. It took me some adjustment as well, until i realized I'm coming from an edge lit 1080p Sammy, and all I did was complain about weak blacks during low level scenes and such. I think their is some adjustment involved in seeing true black levels on these sets for the first time.
e
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post #24290 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:21 AM
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I know someone a few pages back posted that running backlight at 100 vs 50 on HDR 10 stuff made the highlights dip but I don't see it. I've demo'd scenes of a bunch of uhd blu ray's and I think in every single case a backlight of 100 looked better. Gamma at 2.1 and backlight at 100 with no other changes looks the best as far as I'm concerned. Most (all?) other tv's that are HDR 10 only max out backlight and contrast when an HDR 10 signal is detected, there must be a reason for that.
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post #24291 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:40 AM
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Just got back from vacation and I have not received the update yet. Has anyone that did not get white-listed get the update? I am getting the Xbox One S tomorrow and I am curious how it will be before everyone gets the update.
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post #24292 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Fahrenheit85 View Post
Might sit out for next year's models. Between no 'proper" 4:4:4 and the weirdness of the HDMI Port 5 stuff is making want to see what next year's models will be like. My Panasonic Plasma can last a little longer I hope.
If they follow history, there will not be a 2017 P series. The 2017 M series will be similar to the 2016 P, and then we get a new P in 2018.

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post #24293 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:46 AM
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Hello everyone. I just bought a P75-C1 and it will be delivered tomorrow. 2 questions.

1) can it work without internet? I'm getting it delivered to my new house (haven't fully moved in yet) and there's no internet yet. Will it do anything, or do I need to have internet access for it first?

2) One of the reasons I liked this TV was for the tablet and smartcast. We watch a lot of stuff from Plex, YouTube, etc. Most of what we watch isn't 'reference' it's just TV shows and such that get streamed from our NAS. The tablet seems pretty cool. However, I JUST realized that since the material is getting streamed directly to the TV, I'd have to use ARC or optical out. I see a lot of people having issues with ARC, but why can't I just use the optical out? Does it pass the same audio content? I currently have a 2-channel DAC/pre-amp, but am thinking about getting an Anthem AVM-60. Would I be OK to just use optical to the DAC or processor? Thanks guys!
1. Yes. The TV will be able to output anything available via the HDMI connections that don't require the internet (dvd, bluray, cable, etc).

2. Dunno. I'm not having any ARC issues so far. My Denon AVR-S720W turns on when the tv is turned on and everything seems to be working.
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post #24294 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by joe501 View Post
1. Yes. The TV will be able to output anything available via the HDMI connections that don't require the internet (dvd, bluray, cable, etc).

2. Dunno. I'm not having any ARC issues so far. My Denon AVR-S720W turns on when the tv is turned on and everything seems to be working.
Glad to hear it! I hear so many people having ARC issues, but it all seems to be long HDMI runs, poor HDMI cables, strange situations, etc. Mine is simple, HDMI from the back of the TV to the processor, 2 feet away.
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post #24295 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by cowanrg View Post
Hello everyone. I just bought a P75-C1 and it will be delivered tomorrow. 2 questions.

1) can it work without internet? I'm getting it delivered to my new house (haven't fully moved in yet) and there's no internet yet. Will it do anything, or do I need to have internet access for it first?

2) One of the reasons I liked this TV was for the tablet and smartcast. We watch a lot of stuff from Plex, YouTube, etc. Most of what we watch isn't 'reference' it's just TV shows and such that get streamed from our NAS. The tablet seems pretty cool. However, I JUST realized that since the material is getting streamed directly to the TV, I'd have to use ARC or optical out. I see a lot of people having issues with ARC, but why can't I just use the optical out? Does it pass the same audio content? I currently have a 2-channel DAC/pre-amp, but am thinking about getting an Anthem AVM-60. Would I be OK to just use optical to the DAC or processor? Thanks guys!
1. Out of the box it probably will need a internet connection. There is a setup and registration process, that requires internet. I am not quite sure how much of this you can skip. Also it most likely will want to do firmware updates. Been so long since I set this thing up. Other users I am sure can add more value to this point.

2. Optical's bandwidth is limited compared to HDMI. That being said if you only want dolby digital 5.1. Optical will give you this. But if you would like a more immersive type sound environment. Then you will want 5.x.2 or 5.x.4. The last digit x.x.2 is Called dolby atmos speakers. They are either speakers you mount in your ceiling, or satellite speakers that sit on your front and or back speakers. Dolby atmos enabled satellite speakers fire the sound upwards at like a 30 degree angle and bounce of the ceiling to your ears. It's actually pretty cool. In this case you will need a receiver that is dolby atmos capable. along with speakers. This scenario will drive you into the HDMI ARC. You also would be feature proofing your set up for the future to some degree. This is all new technology, lots of variables and points failures. But when it works, coupled with 4k it is awesome!

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post #24296 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:56 AM
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And here I was thinking of exchanging my 55" KS8000 for a 65" P
I got my P65 Costco Canada two weeks ago. Beautiful picture.
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post #24297 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by MichiganTim View Post
1. Out of the box it probably will need a internet connection. There is a setup and registration process, that requires internet. I am not quite sure how much of this you can skip. Also it most likely will want to do firmware updates. Been so long since I set this thing up. Other users I am sure can add more value to this point.

2. Optical's bandwidth is limited compared to HDMI. That being said if you only want dolby digital 5.1. Optical will give you this. But if you would like a more immersive type sound environment. Then you will want 5.x.2 or 5.x.4. The last digit x.x.2 is Called dolby atmos speakers. They are either speakers you mount in your ceiling, or satellite speakers that sit on your front and or back speakers. Dolby atmos enabled satellite speakers fire the sound upwards at like a 30 degree angle and bounce of the ceiling to your ears. It's actually pretty cool. In this case you will need a receiver that is dolby atmos capable. along with speakers. This scenario will drive you into the HDMI ARC. You also would be feature proofing your set up for the future to some degree. This is all new technology, lots of variables and points failures. But when it works, coupled with 4k it is awesome!
OK, I suspected it might need some sort of internet connection for the initial setup. I'll report back on how much I can skip. I could always setup my phone as a hot-spot temporarily...

Yeah, I thought there was a 'catch' to optical. I don't plan on doing Atmos. Hell, I don't even plan on going full surround actually. My system is primarily just 2-channel, I'm only doing a processor for proper surround down-mixing. It sucks having a 2-channel system with surround formats, it sounds like crap without proper downmixing, which no sources do. So the processor will mainly be used for crossover (with sub) and handling downmixing.
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post #24298 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 10:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Shield Users:

Not sure about your configurations but are you trying this with direct connections to the display rather than through an AVR?

SONY Z9F LCD Master Series Owners Thread
Vizio 2016 P series FAQ, general info and Help
Sony Z9F 75, Vizio P75C1 UHD/HDR/DV, Pioneer Elite SC-95, Samsung UHD Bluray K8500, AppleTV 4K, CC Ultra
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post #24299 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 11:00 AM
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Shield Users:

Not sure about your configurations but are you trying this with direct connections to the display rather than through an AVR?
I did. Made no difference for Netflix HDR.
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post #24300 of 64336 Old 08-01-2016, 11:02 AM
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Shield Users:

Not sure about your configurations but are you trying this with direct connections to the display rather than through an AVR?
Yes, direct connection. There has been no reports of it working whatsoever, so I'm pretty sure the firmware update doesn't support it.
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2016/2017 vizio p-series - nice pic(k)! / netflix , best value , D7000 , dolby vision , latest firmware - 6.0.18.1 - previous 5.0.16.1 , Vizio , Vudu

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