Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 107 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3181 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mozez View Post
So far, what I can conclude is that if your KS8500 is Ethernet hard-wired (like mine), the TV will not throttling the connection. Mine is getting the max for my Verizon FIOS plan (75/75mbps). See the attached results for bandwidthplace.com and the Netflix network check.


Wired connection can actually be faster than wireless since 1) it does not have the encryption overhead that a wireless connection does. For a wired network, it's straight data from the router to the TV. When a wireless network is involved, the router has to encrypt the packets first, sends to the TV, which then decrypt the packets before it is usable. 2) Additionally, all wireless devices shares the same Wi-Fi connection. For example, if you have 4 wireless devices connected to your (say 300mbps) Wireless router, it is split between all 4, so on average, you might end up with a 75mbps throughput per device. This is oversimplifying things since you also have to consider whether the other devices are idle or active....etc.
Correct. What you are seeing is close to the maximum rate that 100Mb tv connection can deliver. The point I was trying to make is that the TV is not throttling anything. If you have QoS on the router then the router can throttle and if your ISP has a problem with your data, it will also throttle. Internally home networks are subject to all types of congestion and interference and other bandwidth issues. It doesn't change the fact that wireless AC is many times faster than 100Mb connection, unless your router is located on the other side of the house and the neighbors are all using the same channels etc.
In my case wireless is faster than wired and both experience the same performance issues with certain apps so it's not a speed issue.
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post #3182 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jvcjbl View Post
Wireless is faster than ethernet? Since when and in what parallel universe? I have a Wireless AC router but the TV's wireless signal is wishy washy at best.
I have run so many tests of this and I find that under optimal conditions, wired and wireless connections support the same data rates. However, because of the variables inherent in wireless technology, I will always choose to use a wired connection - if available. Just MHO.

-----
2016 Samsung UN65KS9800, UN55KS8500, UN49KS8000
2016 Samsung K8500 UHD BD Player x 2
2016 Samsung HW-K550/SWA-8000S 5.1
2016 Pioneer SC-LX701- AudioSource AMP100VS Atmos/DTS:X 7.1.4
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post #3183 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 07:51 PM
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And just to get on the same page here's my wireless results using the same speed test others are using instead of testing through Netflix-
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post #3184 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 08:20 PM
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Hello,
I think it was mentioned earlier but how do I know if my KS8000 is playing Ultra HD content? I am watching Breaking Bad (again!) but this time on Ultra HD using Netflix. I use Harmony remote and sound is connected through my Denon X2300 AVR through optical cable. I read about HDR+ in comments posted earlier and turned that setting on.

But the question still remains. I keep reading about an option where I can see the quality of the video but I can never get to it...

Thanks for your help.

Last edited by xanadu30; 07-13-2016 at 08:25 PM.
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post #3185 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jokaly View Post
Sounds pretty awesome - did you purchase any kind of protection plan? im just worried about (potentially) getting a bad screen ie light bleed or something and have to go through a return process. Glad everything went well for you. The KS8000 is available for 24 month 0% financing so that's why I'm leaning toward amazon for my purchase.


No purchase protection plan. Samsung gives 1 year and my credit card gives an extra year. I have also heard that SquareTrade is a pain to deal with. All things considered, I concluded that the cost of an extended protection plan is less than probability of break in years 3-5 * cost of new TV - joy of getting a new TV early.

I think the chance of getting a dud would be the same at Amazon vs Best Buy, as both have large stock and turnover and have reputations to hold. My suggestion is to go with the company that is most convenient to you (some people prefer pickup/returning in store vs having someone deliver/pick it up), be mentally prepared that there is a (small) chance of getting a bad set, and don't be overly perfectionistic.
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post #3186 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by PeninsulaMark View Post
Cannot compare ? For my OTA viewing, I can compare and have.

Spent three hours today on this KS800D and my two HU8550. Wrote down all the settings on the three sets. The KS800D now has 75% of the quality of the HU8550 55" and 65% of the quality of the 60: HU8550.

KS800D ISSUES
1. Sound not as good as the HU8550
2. Whites are not white
3. Motion vibration or stuttering, which is not present in the HU8550. Movement occurs in steps, and is not smooth like the HU8550
4. Artifacts in white letters (pix taken)
5. Blacks are not as black as the HU8550
6. Colors not as vibrant as HU8550, and rising the Color to 100 does not completely cure this. Flesh tones slightly orange.


QUESTIONS
1. How to make the blacks blacker?
2. How to make the whites whiter ?
3. How to reduce or eliminate white lettering artifacts?
4. How to reduce or eliminate video stuttering?



CURRENT SETTINGS KS800D

Movie
18
Bright 18-23
Contrast 100
Sharp 70
Col 58
Tint 48/52
DCV off
AMP off
SLED high
Film mode off
DC High
Col Tone Std

White Bal
2 pt.
R off -7
G off -6
B off -8
R gain -1
G gain -1
B gain -4

10 pt.
10% (RGB) -13 -14 -15
20% -11 -11 -13
30% 0 -1 -1
40% 3 3 10
50% -4 -3 -1
60% -8 -8 -9
70% -10 -9 -6
80% -12 -9 -7
90% -7 -6 -8
100% -1 -3 -8

Gamma 0
RGB off
Color Space Custom
Mag (RGB) 38 8 48
Cyan 20 46 55
Yellow 54 52 6
Blue 0 3 60
Green 22 55 6
Red 40 8 2

Sound Speaker, Std
Audio Dolby Dig (? should this be PCM?)
Delay 40
Auto vol off
Send feedback off
EcoSensor off
Energy Saving off
Auto power off

Software 1114 with no update available.
- Sharpness at 70 will definitely give you artifacts. Turn that down to 20 or less. 0 is the real picture unless you're in PC mode.
- Your TV is not bright because you set brightness so low. Default brightness is 45.
- Default Color setting is 50. You're going to get over saturation when you go higher than that.
- IMO Dynamic Contrast at high is way too saturated for SDR content. I have it Off for regular SDR content, and I only use it for HDR and HDR+.
- Did you calibrate your White Balance and Color Space settings yourself? What you have is way off from what I have (all of my White Balance settings are 0, and I have Color Space to Native for SDR content). I could see how that is totally messing with your "white is not white" if you don't have proper calibration gear.

What were your settings out of the box? If your White Balance and Color Space were already customized out of the box, it makes me think that you got a used and returned set. Those settings should not be customized fresh out of the box.
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post #3187 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frisbfreek View Post
- Sharpness at 70 will definitely give you artifacts. Turn that down to 20 or less. 0 is the real picture unless you're in PC mode.
- Your TV is not bright because you set brightness so low. Default brightness is 45.
- Default Color setting is 50. You're going to get over saturation when you go higher than that.
- IMO Dynamic Contrast at high is way too saturated for SDR content. I have it Off for regular SDR content, and I only use it for HDR and HDR+.
- Did you calibrate your White Balance and Color Space settings yourself? What you have is way off from what I have (all of my White Balance settings are 0, and I have Color Space to Native for SDR content). I could see how that is totally messing with your "white is not white" if you don't have proper calibration gear.

What were your settings out of the box? If your White Balance and Color Space were already customized out of the box, it makes me think that you got a used and returned set. Those settings should not be customized fresh out of the box.

These settings were virtually all from rtings.com .HERE: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sam...s8000/settings

My HU8550 sharpnesses are at 80-85 and look fine.... no artifacts.

The brightness is at 45. Made a typo in that post. Sorry.

Thank you for your suggestions. Will try them.

Last edited by PeninsulaMark; 07-13-2016 at 09:16 PM.
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post #3188 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by xanadu30 View Post
Hello,
I think it was mentioned earlier but how do I know if my KS8000 is playing Ultra HD content? I am watching Breaking Bad (again!) but this time on Ultra HD using Netflix. I use Harmony remote and sound is connected through my Denon X2300 AVR through optical cable. I read about HDR+ in comments posted earlier and turned that setting on.

But the question still remains. I keep reading about an option where I can see the quality of the video but I can never get to it...

Thanks for your help.
I have no idea how to do it on the Harmony remote, but on the regular remote, press "123", then select the info icon (the "i" with a circle). You should then see some text in the upper left corner. If the second line is "2160" then you are in UHD; if it says "1080" then you're just watching regular HD.
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post #3189 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by frisbfreek View Post
I have no idea how to do it on the Harmony remote, but on the regular remote, press "123", then select the info icon (the "i" with a circle). You should then see some text in the upper left corner. If the second line is "2160" then you are in UHD; if it says "1080" then you're just watching regular HD.
thanks - exactly what I needed. Interestingly, that 'i' icon doesn't show up inside the Youtube screen. But when I am watching Breaking Bad on Netflix, it does show 2160...

Thanks again.
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post #3190 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by xanadu30 View Post
thanks - exactly what I needed. Interestingly, that 'i' icon doesn't show up inside the Youtube screen. But when I am watching Breaking Bad on Netflix, it does show 2160...

Thanks again.
Yes, Youtube doesn't have the info button, but I've found that Youtube 4k videos (like the timescape ones) look a lot crisper than Netflix videos. I can immediately tell with the quality of the picture that it's 4k. If you haven't seen it yet, the Patagonia 8k video is stunning.
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post #3191 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 09:37 PM
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For those of you using HDR+ for cable content don't you see a massive amount of blockiness in dark scenes? I've been having issues with blockiness since I got the TV but I've been trying to use HDR+ and it's WAY worse. It got me realizing contrast is causing the blockiness. Once I turned off dynamic contrast off and turned contrast down to 95 for movie mode it's significantly reduced. I'll deal with less pop. I'd rather have those damn artifacts gone.


Edit: Just wanted to add that I do not see the artifact issue on Blurays and other high quality content such as 4K streaming. I'll stick with HDR+ in those cases
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post #3192 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mozez View Post
So far, what I can conclude is that if your KS8500 is Ethernet hard-wired (like mine), the TV will not throttling the connection. Mine is getting the max for my Verizon FIOS plan (75/75mbps). See the attached results for bandwidthplace.com and the Netflix network check.


Wired connection can actually be faster than wireless since 1) it does not have the encryption overhead that a wireless connection does. For a wired network, it's straight data from the router to the TV. When a wireless network is involved, the router has to encrypt the packets first, sends to the TV, which then decrypt the packets before it is usable. 2) Additionally, all wireless devices shares the same Wi-Fi connection. For example, if you have 4 wireless devices connected to your (say 300mbps) Wireless router, it is split between all 4, so on average, you might end up with a 75mbps throughput per device. This is oversimplifying things since you also have to consider whether the other devices are idle or active....etc.
How did you make the web page black mine is whits and wish it was revered like yours?

Spoiler!
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post #3193 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by frisbfreek View Post
- Sharpness at 70 will definitely give you artifacts. Turn that down to 20 or less. 0 is the real picture unless you're in PC mode.
- Your TV is not bright because you set brightness so low. Default brightness is 45.
- Default Color setting is 50. You're going to get over saturation when you go higher than that.
- IMO Dynamic Contrast at high is way too saturated for SDR content. I have it Off for regular SDR content, and I only use it for HDR and HDR+.
- Did you calibrate your White Balance and Color Space settings yourself? What you have is way off from what I have (all of my White Balance settings are 0, and I have Color Space to Native for SDR content). I could see how that is totally messing with your "white is not white" if you don't have proper calibration gear.

What were your settings out of the box? If your White Balance and Color Space were already customized out of the box, it makes me think that you got a used and returned set. Those settings should not be customized fresh out of the box.

Made all the changes you suggested, except left WB and CS alone. The picture is closer to the HU8550, but not enough. Blacks are still not black enough. Colors are not vibrant. Sharpness of 0 is just too blurry, and no where near the HU8550. 800D needs at least 50 on sharpness.

Set was definitely new, but I did not write down the defaults.

The poor tones are so obvious, don't need calibration gear. I adjusted both of my HU8550 sets without calibration gear, and they both are fine.

On the HU8550, the settings start with:

BL 16
Contrast 87
Bright 46
Sharp 82
Color 56
G43/R57
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post #3194 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by PeninsulaMark View Post
Made all the changes you suggested, except left WB and CS alone. The picture is closer to the HU8550, but not enough. Blacks are still not black enough. Colors are not vibrant. Sharpness of 0 is just too blurry, and no where near the HU8550. 800D needs at least 50 on sharpness.



Set was definitely new, but I did not write down the defaults.



The poor tones are so obvious, don't need calibration gear. I adjusted both of my HU8550 sets without calibration gear, and they both are fine.



On the HU8550, the settings start with:



BL 16

Contrast 87

Bright 46

Sharp 82

Color 56

G43/R57


The KS8000 is supposed to be a lot better than TVs from 2 generations ago. Others here have compared the KS8000 with the HU8550 and have verified that they also think so. Ultimately, if you are still unhappy with your purchase after hours of tweaking, you should return it. We just have different opinions and experiences with our TVs.
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post #3195 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Mozez View Post
So far, what I can conclude is that if your KS8500 is Ethernet hard-wired (like mine), the TV will not throttling the connection. Mine is getting the max for my Verizon FIOS plan (75/75mbps). See the attached results for bandwidthplace.com and the Netflix network check.


Wired connection can actually be faster than wireless since 1) it does not have the encryption overhead that a wireless connection does. For a wired network, it's straight data from the router to the TV. When a wireless network is involved, the router has to encrypt the packets first, sends to the TV, which then decrypt the packets before it is usable. 2) Additionally, all wireless devices shares the same Wi-Fi connection. For example, if you have 4 wireless devices connected to your (say 300mbps) Wireless router, it is split between all 4, so on average, you might end up with a 75mbps throughput per device. This is oversimplifying things since you also have to consider whether the other devices are idle or active....etc.
Ok I got curious with all of this bandwidth testing, so I did my own at bandwidthplace.com I got 47/56 Mbps on the TV (wired) and 59/62 Mbps on my laptop (wireless). Looks like TV is slightly slower than laptop, but both are pretty close to my FIOS plan of 50/50 Mbps, so that's good enough for me!

On a side note, do you guys find that you need anything above 50/50 Mbps? Maybe I'm just cheap...
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post #3196 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by frisbfreek View Post
No purchase protection plan. Samsung gives 1 year and my credit card gives an extra year. I have also heard that SquareTrade is a pain to deal with. All things considered, I concluded that the cost of an extended protection plan is less than probability of break in years 3-5 * cost of new TV - joy of getting a new TV early.

I think the chance of getting a dud would be the same at Amazon vs Best Buy, as both have large stock and turnover and have reputations to hold. My suggestion is to go with the company that is most convenient to you (some people prefer pickup/returning in store vs having someone deliver/pick it up), be mentally prepared that there is a (small) chance of getting a bad set, and don't be overly perfectionistic.

It's $80 for SquareTrade® protection plan (buy the plan at Costco - - - you need not buy the set at Costco), and they are highly rated. When a GPS went bad, it took five minutes on the phone and they sent a prepaid mailer. As soon as the package was sent from a UPS store, SquareTrade issued a PayPal credit for the purchase price minus sales tax.

Have other ST plans but haven't used them. They often have 10%-40% off coupon codes

The vast majority of panel failures are in the first year=, termed "infant mortality".
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post #3197 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frisbfreek View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mozez View Post
So far, what I can conclude is that if your KS8500 is Ethernet hard-wired (like mine), the TV will not throttling the connection. Mine is getting the max for my Verizon FIOS plan (75/75mbps). See the attached results for bandwidthplace.com and the Netflix network check.


Wired connection can actually be faster than wireless since 1) it does not have the encryption overhead that a wireless connection does. For a wired network, it's straight data from the router to the TV. When a wireless network is involved, the router has to encrypt the packets first, sends to the TV, which then decrypt the packets before it is usable. 2) Additionally, all wireless devices shares the same Wi-Fi connection. For example, if you have 4 wireless devices connected to your (say 300mbps) Wireless router, it is split between all 4, so on average, you might end up with a 75mbps throughput per device. This is oversimplifying things since you also have to consider whether the other devices are idle or active....etc.
Ok I got curious with all of this bandwidth testing, so I did my own at bandwidthplace.com I got 47/56 Mbps on the TV (wired) and 59/62 Mbps on my laptop (wireless). Looks like TV is slightly slower than laptop, but both are pretty close to my FIOS plan of 50/50 Mbps, so that's good enough for me!

On a side note, do you guys find that you need anything above 50/50 Mbps? Maybe I'm just cheap...
For basic web surfing and streaming 50/50 is more than enough unless you have multiple users (3+) hogging the connection at one time. When you start downloading large files on a regular basis and hosting your own server 150/150 is nice to have.
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post #3198 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by frisbfreek View Post
No purchase protection plan. Samsung gives 1 year and my credit card gives an extra year. I have also heard that SquareTrade is a pain to deal with. All things considered, I concluded that the cost of an extended protection plan is less than probability of break in years 3-5 * cost of new TV - joy of getting a new TV early.

I think the chance of getting a dud would be the same at Amazon vs Best Buy, as both have large stock and turnover and have reputations to hold. My suggestion is to go with the company that is most convenient to you (some people prefer pickup/returning in store vs having someone deliver/pick it up), be mentally prepared that there is a (small) chance of getting a bad set, and don't be overly perfectionistic.


If you use the Citibank VISA consumer credit card (Costco), it adds TWO YEARS to the manufacturer's warranty, whereas the Citibank Business VISA adds one year. The neat thing is that the no charge extension of one or two years is applied AFTER the manufacturer's warranty and AFTER any extended warranty. For Hisense that gets you 4 + 2 or at least six years. For the KS800D at Costco, that 2 years (manufacturer & Costco) + 3 years ST ($90) + 2 years Citibank for a total of SEVEN YEARS for the mere $90 extra.

The most a four or five year TV plan costs $90 (from Costco), more if you buy it from square trade.com .
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post #3199 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layzzzee8 View Post
For those of you using HDR+ for cable content don't you see a massive amount of blockiness in dark scenes? I've been having issues with blockiness since I got the TV but I've been trying to use HDR+ and it's WAY worse. It got me realizing contrast is causing the blockiness. Once I turned off dynamic contrast off and turned contrast down to 95 for movie mode it's significantly reduced. I'll deal with less pop. I'd rather have those damn artifacts gone.


Edit: Just wanted to add that I do not see the artifact issue on Blurays and other high quality content such as 4K streaming. I'll stick with HDR+ in those cases


Yep, the better the source the better it is. Lower sources give faces a weird metallic look.
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post #3200 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by frisbfreek View Post
Can you check that AutoMotion Plus is turned off specifically for HDR+? The TV treats HDR+ as a totally separate mode, so turning off AutoMotion Plus in Movie mode will not carry over to HDR+. You'll need to explicitly turn it off again in HDR+.
Well of course that was it. I didn't realize it was a real separate mode. Thanks!
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post #3201 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 11:29 PM
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I've seen this tv on sale on different sites online. All brand new and free shipping. I'm talking $400-$500 cheaper. I wonder if Best Buy will price match that much?


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YMMV, mine was willing to price match one of the online stores that had the 9000 for $2495, but wanted tax instead of out the door. So I passed since if I had gone that route there was another local electronics store selling it at $2499.99. So worth trying if you are serious about it.

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Originally Posted by frisbfreek View Post
I have no idea how to do it on the Harmony remote, but on the regular remote, press "123", then select the info icon (the "i" with a circle). You should then see some text in the upper left corner. If the second line is "2160" then you are in UHD; if it says "1080" then you're just watching regular HD.
Was that on the list of things you sent to bluewhale1 frisbfreek? Might be useful to new users and thanks for taking the ball and helping out.

Official Samsung KS8000/8500 Owners Information PDF
Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
Bedroom: VIZIO E470VL VIZIO VSB200 Sound Bar Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360
Inner Sanctum: Samsung 65KS8000, Halo XBox One, GoW Xbox 360, Onkyo HT-S5300
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post #3202 of 36947 Old 07-13-2016, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Donster View Post
YMMV, mine was willing to price match one of the online stores that had the 9000 for $2495, but wanted tax instead of out the door. So I passed since if I had gone that route there was another local electronics store selling it at $2499.99. So worth trying if you are serious about it.







Was that on the list of things you sent to bluewhale1 frisbfreek? Might be useful to new users and thanks for taking the ball and helping out.

I just came from the 24hour Best Buy here in the city and sales rep said they only price match big corporate companies not online dealers. Don't know if he knows what he's talking about or things changed. I'll try my local one tomorrow.




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post #3203 of 36947 Old 07-14-2016, 12:21 AM
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Hey guys -- just wanted to get everyone's opinion on this. I own the 65 inch model and I'm looking to mount it on my brick wall. I'm not super handy or anything, but after checking out numerous mounts on Amazon.com I've finally settled on this mount.

Can you guys take a look and let me know your thoughts or recommendations?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1Q5TXAPOS7WLS

Thanks!
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post #3204 of 36947 Old 07-14-2016, 03:13 AM
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[quote=agripnt;45340569]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jschme View Post
Hey guys - I just purchased a 65" Samsung KS8000. Great TV. I am looking to hook up my new Vizio Soundbar (model # SB4551-D5) via an optical cable to Samsung's "connect all" attachment.

My question is - will the use of an optical cable be less desirable then an HDMI Arc setup in terms of sound quality? I do not own a blu-ray player and the only media device hooked to my soundbar would be the TV. Can someone check the specs on my soundbar and ensure the TV can appropriately channel sound through an optical cable? Much help would be appreciated. I included the vizio link below. The reason I dont want to use an HDMI Arc connection is because I am having the sound drop out and connectivity issues.



Did you get this all working good? What is your remote situation for controlling volume? I'm considering the same setup!
With optical you cannot pass through audio codecs such as DTS-HD MA or Dolby TrueHD. Also I had issues with ARC. It didn't always work and would randomly change source. In the end I switched off ARC and used an optical cable from TV to my AV amp. As Netflix only outputs DD 5.1 this works fine for me.
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post #3205 of 36947 Old 07-14-2016, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by checker9 View Post
Thanks, I have seen some like that, so perhaps there are some other brands still available at normal prices. I assumed the back had to be secured to a wall so I never looked into them. So the base plate is heavy enough to counter the TV mass?

I found this one for $200 http://www.whalenfurniture.com/categ...stand-bbxl54nv

The manual states you attached safety cables to wall to prevent tipping forward. Does yours need that - does it seem tippy without a secure tether?
No tethering since the upright and the base are of a heavy solid build quality and its of a very unique design. The stand you found is a nice find for $200 and free shipping. They may ship to store free for you to pick up. ** This way if the box is crushed you can reject it. Did you check for stock already available in your local store?

SAFETY FIRST should always be your first concern. That pic of it does not look like a 65 inch is mounted on it. So it could be tippier with a 65.
No big deal just install a couple of tether straps if its going against a wall. I rent so wall mounts are usually not an option for me. I dont like looking up anyway at a wall mount. I prefer eye level or close to it.

I dont recommend that type of stand to be used free standing like mine is. Ikea furniture is currently in a major lawsuit as some of their chest of drawers when you open more drawers then one tend to fall over and injure and have killed kids.

Even if you dont have kids . . . someone visiting with kids they could climb onto a shelf and without tether straps it could fall forward. Same goes for furniture and especially those high wire rack systems that are popular in kitchens, garages etc. like this one n my utility room:

** see my post # 2693 above for the way best buy allows their truckers and clerks to destroy shipping boxes containing electronics. They also put a huge hole in the bottom of a large home theater box I bought from them a week earlier. I don't find this treatment with amazon. Its like that video last year of a fedex or UPS guying throwing someones flat screen over their fence and into their yard. My experience is Best Buy treats your electronics in the same fashion! Amazon . . . shipping and delivery they treat packages like kid gloves.

Pic below of my utility room rack and its simple tether:
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UNK65KS8500 (curved model)
HW-K950 Samsung Atmos soundbar-with rears
HW-J8500 Samsung Soundbar (sold 10-24-16)
Sanus universal soundbar speaker mount SA405B1
Samsung 4K Ultra HD Bluray player UBDK8500
Harmony 650 remote ($43 amazon)

Last edited by Expidia; 07-14-2016 at 03:31 PM.
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post #3206 of 36947 Old 07-14-2016, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Artman22 View Post
I just came from the 24hour Best Buy here in the city and sales rep said they only price match big corporate companies not online dealers. Don't know if he knows what he's talking about or things changed. I'll try my local one tomorrow.




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Don't even bother asking a best buy clerk a question. They will always give you an answer and its wrong most of the time. Been this way for many years as they dont want to pay for anyone qualified like most places now.

Best Buy price matches Amazon. But Amazon is getting sneaky. Their Prime sale this last Tues they threw out a loss leader for an entry level new model. 2016 Sammy 55 inch 4k smart tv for like $649. They went fast. But the kicker is its now "their own model number" that sammy makes especially for amazon, so best buy will never match unless its the exact same model. I doubt they will ever match a one day sale either.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/clp/pric...at290300050002

http://www.nbcnews.com/business/cons...s-2016-n607396

I think you can also set a text alert to notify you from amazon when a deal started on sales like their prime special day. Or when an items price drops.
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UNK65KS8500 (curved model)
HW-K950 Samsung Atmos soundbar-with rears
HW-J8500 Samsung Soundbar (sold 10-24-16)
Sanus universal soundbar speaker mount SA405B1
Samsung 4K Ultra HD Bluray player UBDK8500
Harmony 650 remote ($43 amazon)
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post #3207 of 36947 Old 07-14-2016, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman123 View Post
I had the issue where Smarthub would not load at all sometimes. On a lark I went into expert settings in the system area and set smarthub to load when the set turns on. Worked flawlessly. After a few start ups I set the option back so that smarthub does not load on startup but now I get smarthub to load instantly on demand. Give that a shot.
I'd been having the same problem ever since firmware 1112 messed things up. I've tried every "fix' suggested to this point on the forum, and nothing had worked. This time, your method seems to have done the trick! Thank you!
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post #3208 of 36947 Old 07-14-2016, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azz7686 View Post
How did you make the web page black mine is white and wish it was reverted like yours?

Under systems settings (one of the bottom two icons), there's an option for HIGH CONTRAST. It's OFF by default, which gives you a white background in the Web Browser. Turn it ON and it will turn the background for the Web Browser app black or inverse. The brightness on this TV makes it hard to use the white background (for me anyways) to do web browsing for any extended period of time.
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post #3209 of 36947 Old 07-14-2016, 07:38 AM
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I've had this set (65ks8000) for about a week now. I'm running the rtings settings and the PQ for streaming, bluray, and ps4 (on game mode) have all been outstanding. I don't seem to have any light bleeding or any other common issues (fa01 panel, 6xx serial number). However, I have been really disappointed with directtv PQ. I'm starting to think this has something to do with my setup as directtv looks great on the panny plasma this was replacing and the 60" sony led I have in another room. I'm running the 8000 on one of the c61 wireless boxes. All resolution formats are checked, and today I switched it to Native which seems to have helped quite a bit, but still not perfect. The issue is that the picture seems grainy, somewhat washed out, and blurry (especially faces). Also, as I was watching The Open this morning I received a notification from the tv along the top with the message "The current input resolution is low. Please check the resolution of the source device". It went away after 30 seconds or so. I've adjusted every setting I can find. The auto clean view cleans up some of the noise, but it results in a loss of detail, and doesn't really help the washed out look.

Do I need the newer c61k boxes to get better quality? Does this need to be hooked to the main hr44 (or do I need to upgrade to hr54)? Is there some setting on the current directtv box I'm missing?

FYI, I have read the first 70 pages of this thread, so I apologize if the answer lies somewhere between here and there. You all have provided a great deal of information that have helped me quite a bit so far.
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post #3210 of 36947 Old 07-14-2016, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mozez View Post
So far, what I can conclude is that if your KS8500 is Ethernet hard-wired (like mine), the TV will not throttling the connection. Mine is getting the max for my Verizon FIOS plan (75/75mbps). See the attached results for bandwidthplace.com and the Netflix network check.


Wired connection can actually be faster than wireless since 1) it does not have the encryption overhead that a wireless connection does. For a wired network, it's straight data from the router to the TV. When a wireless network is involved, the router has to encrypt the packets first, sends to the TV, which then decrypt the packets before it is usable. 2) Additionally, all wireless devices shares the same Wi-Fi connection. For example, if you have 4 wireless devices connected to your (say 300mbps) Wireless router, it is split between all 4, so on average, you might end up with a 75mbps throughput per device. This is oversimplifying things since you also have to consider whether the other devices are idle or active....etc.
The Dallas server for bandwidth place is garbage. I just disconnected the ethernet cable that is plugged into my TV and plugged it into the my MacBook Pro and it gave me 50% of my speed. I then switched to the trusty SpeedTest.net site and it gave me what I'm used to. I'm sure this is part of my problem right here.
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Samsung UN65KS8000F
Pioneer BDP-51FD
Yamaha Aventage RX-A2050
Xfinity X1
Playstation 4 Pro
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