Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 1223 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #36661 of 37006 Old 11-19-2019, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mooch49 View Post
It's the new shield. Here is what my setup would be. Shield to Soundbar to TV.

Are you saying that there is no way to have Atmos on the KS8000?

If I wanted Atmos while watching a uhd disc or movie/show on Netflix, Vudu, etc on this tv I wouldn't be able to, even if soundbar and content is atmos capable.

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Correct. ARC is the only way other than optical out and the TV's own speakers to get audio out of the KS8000, and neither ARC nor digital optical has the bandwidth to support ATMOS. It can come in DD+ and TrueHD, neither supported by the KS8000. Although some here insist they see "DD+" illuminated on their receivers via ARC, I believe that is only because the audio data's ID block says it is DD+ and the receiver is responding to it. DD+ is high-bitrate DD plus extensions, and those extensions, containing metadata for additional channels, ATMOS, etc. aren't passed via optical/ARC.
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post #36662 of 37006 Old 11-19-2019, 02:48 PM
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Bluetooth Wireless Headphones

Hi, I was wondering if anyone has successfully got a Bluetooth headset to work with a KS8000. I looked around in "Settings" and saw where a Bluetooth keyboard can be used but no mention of a wireless headset. Any help or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
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post #36663 of 37006 Old 11-19-2019, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by calguy99 View Post
Hi, I was wondering if anyone has successfully got a Bluetooth headset to work with a KS8000. I looked around in "Settings" and saw where a Bluetooth keyboard can be used but no mention of a wireless headset. Any help or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
I don't think anyone's done it yet. There was a bit of discussion about it some time ago, but I don't know what the result was. Try a "Search This Thread" - top right corner on every page, in the gray bar above the first post.

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post #36664 of 37006 Old 11-19-2019, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
I don't think anyone's done it yet. There was a bit of discussion about it some time ago, but I don't know what the result was. Try a "Search This Thread" - top right corner on every page, in the gray bar above the first post.
Thanks for the reply.

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post #36665 of 37006 Old 11-19-2019, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
Correct. ARC is the only way other than optical out and the TV's own speakers to get audio out of the KS8000, and neither ARC nor digital optical has the bandwidth to support ATMOS. It can come in DD+ and TrueHD, neither supported by the KS8000. Although some here insist they see "DD+" illuminated on their receivers via ARC, I believe that is only because the audio data's ID block says it is DD+ and the receiver is responding to it. DD+ is high-bitrate DD plus extensions, and those extensions, containing metadata for additional channels, ATMOS, etc. aren't passed via optical/ARC.
Okay, got ya. It's obviously disappointing, but being it's a 3+year old TV, it should be expected. For a TV, that's a very long time nowadays. It's just very hard to keep up.

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post #36666 of 37006 Old 11-19-2019, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by calguy99 View Post
Hi, I was wondering if anyone has successfully got a Bluetooth headset to work with a KS8000. I looked around in "Settings" and saw where a Bluetooth keyboard can be used but no mention of a wireless headset. Any help or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.


Yup it works. I paired my Bose and Jaybird and had no issues.


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post #36667 of 37006 Old 11-20-2019, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by calguy99 View Post
Hi, I was wondering if anyone has successfully got a Bluetooth headset to work with a KS8000. I looked around in "Settings" and saw where a Bluetooth keyboard can be used but no mention of a wireless headset. Any help or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
i use a 'Cowin E-7' headset all the time. it's a bit flaky on occasion and fights with my samsung soundbar for control when switching inputs from cable/xbox/etx but works fine otherwise.

as soon as i power them on, an on-screen popup asks to switch audio.
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post #36668 of 37006 Old 11-22-2019, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jbalsor View Post
You have files with higher bitrates than 100Mbits/s !?

4k
HDR
ATMOS (just core extracted, but still in the stream)



with lot's of moving action on screen, demand can rise higher than 12MB\s .. yes
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post #36669 of 37006 Old 11-22-2019, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by calguy99 View Post
Hi, I was wondering if anyone has successfully got a Bluetooth headset to work with a KS8000. I looked around in "Settings" and saw where a Bluetooth keyboard can be used but no mention of a wireless headset. Any help or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
I paired a few of BT headsets to the my KS8000 for night time movie watching. You put your BT headsets in the pairing mode, and on the TV Audio settings, choose Bluetooth and then Pair, and it will find your BT Headphone. After the initial pairing, when you turn on your BT headsets, the TV will "see" it and ask if you want to route your audio route it, click yes, and it will connect to your BT headsets. Just be aware the TV bluetooth only supports the audio that your TV can decode, i.e. standard 5.1 Dolby Digital and DTS only. Anything else such as DD True HD, DTS-MA are not supported. Multi-channel PCM does not quite work, as you will only get the Front L and R channels and will not hear any dialogue, which is in the center channel.
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post #36670 of 37006 Old 11-23-2019, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
Correct. ARC is the only way other than optical out and the TV's own speakers to get audio out of the KS8000, and neither ARC nor digital optical has the bandwidth to support ATMOS. It can come in DD+ and TrueHD, neither supported by the KS8000. Although some here insist they see "DD+" illuminated on their receivers via ARC, I believe that is only because the audio data's ID block says it is DD+ and the receiver is responding to it. DD+ is high-bitrate DD plus extensions, and those extensions, containing metadata for additional channels, ATMOS, etc. aren't passed via optical/ARC.
I think you are answering a question different than what he is asking.

Yes you can go Shield to Soundbar to TV and get ATMOS from the soundbar since the TV has nothing to do with the audio.

You cannot use ARC and get ATMOS, which would be SHield to TV to Soundbar.

I have no experience with atmos on a soundbar so not sure how that's possible, but that's a different discussion. If the soundbar says atmos capable then fine....it should work passing the HDMI directly from the Shield to the soundbar
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post #36671 of 37006 Old 11-23-2019, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by thisismyname123 View Post
I think you are answering a question different than what he is asking.

Yes you can go Shield to Soundbar to TV and get ATMOS from the soundbar since the TV has nothing to do with the audio.

You cannot use ARC and get ATMOS, which would be SHield to TV to Soundbar.

I have no experience with atmos on a soundbar so not sure how that's possible, but that's a different discussion. If the soundbar says atmos capable then fine....it should work passing the HDMI directly from the Shield to the soundbar
If you go back and read my response to him PREVIOUS to the one you quoted, you'll see that I already told him the very same things you have said. Post #36655 .
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post #36672 of 37006 Old 11-24-2019, 01:08 PM
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Any update to the Disney + app since the initial release? Still no 4k?
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post #36673 of 37006 Old 11-24-2019, 02:05 PM
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Guys I need help. I’ve bricked something. My remote will not pair. Called Samsung and they said the remote is bad; that’s fine and dandy so I’ve been using my phone as a remote. However I inadvertently changed a setting using my phone to “ask for permission” to allow a mobile device to connect so now I can no longer use my phone as a remote as I need to select "allow" but cannot since I have no working remote. So, I went and bought a universal Samsung remote from Best Buy and a similar one to the original OEM one off Amazon that works with the KS8000 but neither one will pair. So basically as of now, I do not have a functional remote. Is there any friggen way to reset the TV to factory settings without using a remote? I need to somehow disable the permission feature so I can at least use my phone again to disable the permission feature. To my knowledge there is no way to access any settings without using a functional remote. I hope I'm wrong. I'm pretty much screwed right now.

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post #36674 of 37006 Old 11-24-2019, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtyfork View Post
Guys I need help. I’ve bricked something. My remote will not pair. Called Samsung and they said the remote is bad; that’s fine and dandy so I’ve been using my phone as a remote. However I inadvertently changed a setting using my phone to “ask for permission” to allow a mobile device to connect so now I can no longer use my phone as a remote as I need to select "allow" but cannot since I have no working remote. So, I went and bought a universal Samsung remote from Best Buy and a similar one to the original OEM one off Amazon that works with the KS8000 but neither one will pair. So basically as of now, I do not have a functional remote. Is there any friggen way to reset the TV to factory settings without using a remote? I need to somehow disable the permission feature so I can at least use my phone again to disable the permission feature. To my knowledge there is no way to access any settings without using a functional remote. I hope I'm wrong. I'm pretty much screwed right now.
You should be able to use any universal remote to control this TV, I've been using a Logitech 665 universal remote on it for years. That one is about $40 but I'm sure there are cheaper ones out there you can use.
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post #36675 of 37006 Old 11-24-2019, 04:32 PM
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You should be able to use any universal remote to control this TV, I've been using a Logitech 665 universal remote on it for years. That one is about $40 but I'm sure there are cheaper ones out there you can use.
Thanks for the reply. I’ve used two other remotes and neither one pairs. I somehow need to reset the TV to factory settings without using a remote because I cannot get a remote to work with the TV currently.
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post #36676 of 37006 Old 11-24-2019, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtyfork View Post
Thanks for the reply. I’ve used two other remotes and neither one pairs. I somehow need to reset the TV to factory settings without using a remote because I cannot get a remote to work with the TV currently.
"Pairing" is only necessary for Bluetooth, not for IR. An IR-only Samsung or universal remote should work. So somehow you may also have a non-functioning IR receiver on the TV. Have you tried unplugging the TV (when it is ON) for several minutes? This will do a hard reboot, but not a factory reset.

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post #36677 of 37006 Old 11-24-2019, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtyfork View Post
Thanks for the reply. I’ve used two other remotes and neither one pairs. I somehow need to reset the TV to factory settings without using a remote because I cannot get a remote to work with the TV currently.
You shouldn't need to pair the remote to the TV as it's just using an infrared signal not bluetooth, unless there's something wrong with the remote sensor on your TV. If that's the case I suggest contacting Samsung again to see if there's a way to reset it without the remote.
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post #36678 of 37006 Old 11-24-2019, 04:53 PM
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You shouldn't need to pair the remote to the TV as it's just using an infrared signal not bluetooth, unless there's something wrong with the remote sensor on your TV. If that's the case I suggest contacting Samsung again to see if there's a way to reset it without the remote.
Thanks guys. I’ll try the hard reset by unplugging while on and leave it off overnight. Neither remote I’ve tried will work. I understand I shouldn’t need to pair a remote but again, nothing works out of the box. I just simply cannot believe I’m unable to access any settings on this TV without using a remote other than powering on and off, channel up and down, volume up and down and source selection.
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post #36679 of 37006 Old 11-24-2019, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtyfork View Post
Thanks guys. I’ll try the hard reset by unplugging while on and leave it off overnight. Neither remote I’ve tried will work. I understand I shouldn’t need to pair a remote but again, nothing works out of the box. I just simply cannot believe I’m unable to access any settings on this TV without using a remote other than powering on and off, channel up and down, volume up and down and source selection.
When all else fails the good old "unplug it then plug it back in" trick usually works.
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post #36680 of 37006 Old 11-24-2019, 05:07 PM
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When all else fails the good old "unplug it then plug it back in" trick usually works.
I sincerely hope. Try using the TV without a friggen remote. It sucks. I’ll update in the morning. Thanks for the help.
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post #36681 of 37006 Old 11-24-2019, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
"Pairing" is only necessary for Bluetooth, not for IR. An IR-only Samsung or universal remote should work. So somehow you may also have a non-functioning IR receiver on the TV. Have you tried unplugging the TV (when it is ON) for several minutes? This will do a hard reboot, but not a factory reset.

Pairing would be required for his replacement (OEM) Samsung Smart remote. The remote that came with the TV was pre-paired but a replacement Smart remote will require pressing and holding the Return and Play/Pause buttons simultaneously for at least 3 seconds at the IR sensor.

Now the basic/universal Samsung remote should work and wouldn't need to be paired to the TV. Which makes me think, as Rolls-Royce pointed out, your IR sensor is not working (and your original remote is probably ok). If that is the case I don't see anyway possible for you to allow your phone to be a peripheral to the TV, cause you can't get into the TV menus to allow it. Does the red light still come on when the TV is turned off? If it doesn't that's a sure tell sign that the IR sensor isn't working.

As for a Factory Reset without a Remote? I don't know if it is possible. On older Samsung TVs holding the power button for 15 or more seconds would trigger a Factory reset. But on the KS8000 it may only do a hard reset, it might not do anything.
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post #36682 of 37006 Old 11-25-2019, 06:09 AM
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Pairing would be required for his replacement (OEM) Samsung Smart remote. The remote that came with the TV was pre-paired but a replacement Smart remote will require pressing and holding the Return and Play/Pause buttons simultaneously for at least 3 seconds at the IR sensor.

Now the basic/universal Samsung remote should work and wouldn't need to be paired to the TV. Which makes me think, as Rolls-Royce pointed out, your IR sensor is not working (and your original remote is probably ok). If that is the case I don't see anyway possible for you to allow your phone to be a peripheral to the TV, cause you can't get into the TV menus to allow it. Does the red light still come on when the TV is turned off? If it doesn't that's a sure tell sign that the IR sensor isn't working.

As for a Factory Reset without a Remote? I don't know if it is possible. On older Samsung TVs holding the power button for 15 or more seconds would trigger a Factory reset. But on the KS8000 it may only do a hard reset, it might not do anything.
It isn't nice and it isn't pretty but there is a button on the right hand bottom of the screen that can turn on the TV, as well as turn it off and access the various menus. It is a pain in the a-- but it works. You might try this to access the various menus before taking a chainsaw to the TV.
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post #36683 of 37006 Old 11-25-2019, 07:21 AM
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It isn't nice and it isn't pretty but there is a button on the right hand bottom of the screen that can turn on the TV, as well as turn it off and access the various menus. It is a pain in the a-- but it works. You might try this to access the various menus before taking a chainsaw to the TV.
That button can power the TV on/off, change the channel and volume up/down and finally allow you to change the input source to the TV. If you know a way that it can access the settings please enlighten, I'm sure dirtyfork would appreciate it.
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post #36684 of 37006 Old 11-25-2019, 10:36 AM
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Any update to the Disney + app since the initial release? Still no 4k?


Does your app still works? On my ks8000 I’m getting an error code then a crash.


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post #36685 of 37006 Old 11-25-2019, 03:38 PM
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Try this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyfork View Post
Guys I need help. I’ve bricked something. My remote will not pair. Called Samsung and they said the remote is bad; that’s fine and dandy so I’ve been using my phone as a remote. However I inadvertently changed a setting using my phone to “ask for permission” to allow a mobile device to connect so now I can no longer use my phone as a remote as I need to select "allow" but cannot since I have no working remote. So, I went and bought a universal Samsung remote from Best Buy and a similar one to the original OEM one off Amazon that works with the KS8000 but neither one will pair. So basically as of now, I do not have a functional remote. Is there any friggen way to reset the TV to factory settings without using a remote? I need to somehow disable the permission feature so I can at least use my phone again to disable the permission feature. To my knowledge there is no way to access any settings without using a functional remote. I hope I'm wrong. I'm pretty much screwed right now.
My original remote melted by sun rays from window and I bought this cheap control and didn't even need to pair. I just inserted batteries and it worked. It is almost like the original remote minus the microphone which I prefer not to have on my remote. For 9 bucks it's worth a shot. If not, return it.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #36686 of 37006 Old 11-26-2019, 06:13 AM
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Does your app still works? On my ks8000 I’m getting an error code then a crash.


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Nope - totally broken now....what a disaster
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post #36687 of 37006 Old 11-26-2019, 06:38 AM
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What settings do you guys use for sdr and hdr gaming for ps4 pro (and xbox, guess they’ll be the same) with the latest firmware?
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post #36688 of 37006 Old 11-26-2019, 04:49 PM
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Can someone do a real basic explainLikeI'mFive regarding my PC (GTX980ti) via HDMI2.0 to KS8000 setup, and the effects of choosing a source input label -- what exact impacts are actually happening to my TV as a result?

My understanding is the following between the 5 options
1. HDMI 2/DVI = can go ~20ms lag with game mode on, or ~110+ without. Not sure how 'game console' is different than say 'cable box' functionally speaking.
2. Cable Box = can go ~20ms lag with game mode on, or ~110+ without. Not sure how 'game console' is different than say 'cable box' functionally speaking.
3. Game Console = can go ~20ms lag with game mode on, or ~110+ without. Not sure how 'game console' is different than say 'cable box' functionally speaking.
4. PC = 37.4ms lag. Allows 444 chroma. No idea on what changes otherwise.
5. Blue-ray player = can go ~20ms lag with game mode on, or ~110+ without. Not sure how 'game console' is different than say 'cable box' functionally speaking.

INPUT LAG (IL)
1080p @ 60Hz : 20.9 ms === Any mode that IS NOT PC, will allow game mode to be toggled, and with game mode on we get 20.9ms IL
1080p With Interpolation : 118.9 ms === Any mode that IS NOT PC, and game mode off. (correct me if I'm wrong).
1080p @ 60Hz Outside Game Mode : 113.5 ms === Any mode that IS NOT PC, and game mode off. (correct me if I'm wrong).
1080p @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 : 37.8 ms === PC Mode selected.
4k @ 60Hz : 22.7 ms === Any mode that IS NOT PC, will allow game mode to be toggled, and with game mode on we get 22.7ms IL
4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 : 37.4 ms === PC Mode selected.
4k @ 60Hz + HDR : 21.1 ms === Any mode that IS NOT PC, will allow game mode to be toggled, and with game mode on we get 21.1ms IL
4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + 8 bit HDR : 37.6 ms === PC Mode selected.



List of more specific questions here for those that diver deeper with me:
-Is the PC label the only functionally unique label (444 chroma, 'lowers' lag to 37.8ms however does not allow for game mode, thus cannot achieve ~20ms input lag). All of the other labels appear to have the same functional abilities, other than just being a different name for your convenience of knowing what the input is.
-Setting the label to say 'Game Console' or 'HDMI / DVI2' and having the settings: Game mode=on + NVCP set to ycbcr 422 10bit with an HDMI 2.0 18gbps cable should be displaying HDR properly, yes? At this point, is the only important thing to ensure you are NOT SELECTING PC, so that you can enable game mode? Are the other labels the same (same question as above again)
-What visual impacts or color or display colors nits saturation contrast yaddy yada is changing when I go from 110ms lag on no game/pc mode, to 37.4ms pc mode, to 20ms game mode. I'm assuming there is some trade off happening to achieve these differences in input lag...


TLDR: Really what I'm asking here is, what is changing behind the scenes when you select these different labels?
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post #36689 of 37006 Old 11-27-2019, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
It isn't nice and it isn't pretty but there is a button on the right hand bottom of the screen that can turn on the TV, as well as turn it off and access the various menus. It is a pain in the a-- but it works. You might try this to access the various menus before taking a chainsaw to the TV.
Just a friendly heads up that if you do go the chainsaw route, make sure you update its firmware to the latest version. Also, I suggest one that has all major wireless features: bluetooth, wifi, and IR. All "smart" chainsaws have these features.
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post #36690 of 37006 Old 11-27-2019, 01:51 PM
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Nope - totally broken now....what a disaster


Just a follow up, it seems to be working again. Sadly no 4k or HDR


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denon s740h , extra , hdmi input , KS8000/KS8500 , no picture , one connect fail , xbox one s

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